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Culture Amsterdam has always had a vibrant and varied cultural scene but, over the last few decades, it has truly blossomed, thanks to a renewed interest in Dutch culture. First and foremost, Amsterdam is a musical city, offering a range of musical styles from street performers to carillons, to the more highbrow midday and evening performances in the Concertgebouw (Concert Hall), which is noted for its superb acoustics. On most summer evenings, it is possible for punters to attend an organ concert or a recital of Baroque chamber music in one of Amsterdam’s magnificent old churches, such as Oude Kerk and Nieuwe Kerk. The Dutch National Ballet is considered one of the best and most versatile companies in Western Europe. Its many devotees flock to the Muziektheater, a 1600-seat colisseum that overlooks the Amstel River, to see the great classical ballets as well as works by 20th-century dance innovators. The Muziektheater also plays host to the Netherlands Opera and Netherlands Dance Theatre, Holland’s other world-class ballet company, as well as foreign companies. Some international fringe theatre companies perform in English, while musicals and cabarets find a home in the Royal Carré Theatre, on the River Amstel, and in the nearby Kleine Komedie, a charming little theatre dating back to 1788. Amsterdam stages around 15,000 performances every year (roughly 40 a day), although there is a more concentrated cultural season lasting from September to the end of June. Shows do not cost a fortune and a relaxed dress code means that even the opera can be attended in fairly casual clothes. Tickets to cultural events can be booked through AUB, Leidseplein 26, open 0900-2100 (tel: (0900) 0191, for €0.40 per minute). AUB only accepts payment by credit card. Online listings for cultural events (website: www.whatsonwhen.com and www.timeout.com) are updated regularly. Music: The Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 2-6 (tel: (020) 671 8345, for reservations or 675 4411, for information; website: www.concertgebouw.nl), is not only home to the world-famous Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra – whose conductor is Riccardo Chailly – but also plays host to visiting companies and international soloists. Free concerts take place in either the Grote Zaal (Great Hall) or Kleine Zaal (Recital Hall) of the Concertgebouw, on Wednesday 1230-1300. The Beurs de Berlage, Damrak 62a (tel: (020) 627 1161, for information or (020) 627 0466, for bookings between 1400-1700), is an architecturally fascinating building, where the 140-member Dutch Philharmonic Orchestra is based. The Netherlands Chamber Orchestra and guest artists tend to perform in the building’s ‘glass box’, the Aga Zaal. The Boekmanzaal is part of the Muziektheater (Opera House), Amstel 3 (tel: (020) 551 8100; fax: (020) 551 8025). It holds a free lunchtime concert at 1230-1300 Tuesday (October-June), often performed by members of the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra, the Choir of the Netherlands Opera and the Netherlands Ballet Orchestra. Less formal concerts are performed by four of the city’s 17th-century carillons, on a weekly basis. Bell ringing takes place on Tuesday 1200-1300 at Westertoren (Western Tower), Thursday at Zuidertoren (Southern Tower) and Friday at Munttoren. The bell ringer at Oude Kerkstoren (Old Church Tower) gets to sleep in – concerts are Saturday 1600-1700. Theatre: The Stadsschouwburg (Municipal Theatre), Leidseplein 26 (tel: (020) 624 2311; fax: (020) 623 8685; website: www.stadsschouwburgamsterdam.nl), often stages English-language theatre productions, as well as dance performances. The Koninklijk Theater Carré (Royal Carré Theatre), Amstel 115-125 (tel: (020) 622 5225; fax: (020) 624 8499), often plays host to visiting English-language musicals, as well as opera. Dance: The National Ballet and illustrious visitors perform at the Muziektheater (Opera House), Amstel 3 (tel: (020) 551 8100; fax: (020) 551 8025; website: www.het-nationale-ballet.nl), situated on a curve of the Amstel, in the heart of the city. Amsterdam’s latest cultural landmark, the main 1600-seat theatre is amazingly intimate. The Muziektheater is closed in July. Film: The multi-screen City, Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 13-25 (tel: (0900) 1458), on the Leidseplain, shows Hollywood blockbusters. But Amsterdam is also known for its arty cinemas, such as the newly renovated Tuschinski, Reguliersbreestraat 26-28 (tel: (0900) 1458), which shows films from all over the world. Films are rarely dubbed into Dutch but are shown in the original language with subtitles. Films shot in Amsterdam include Mike van Diem’s Karakter (1997), Dick Maas’s Amsterdamned (1987) and the Bond film Diamonds are Forever (1971). Cultural events: Every 30 April, a huge street party and carnival marks Queen’s Day. Floating Amsterdam occupies the last two weeks of May, when outdoor productions are staged on the River Amstel. Every June, the month-long Holland Festival, featuring music, dance and drama, takes place. Tickets can be booked in advance through tourist offices but some same-day sale tickets are always held at the Musiektheater box office. In August, concerts are performed on boats ringing the Prinsengracht canal. All summer long there are regular cultural events in Vondelpark. Literary Notes Ian McEwan won the 1998 Booker Prize for his Amsterdam (1998), which is partly set in the city. The city also provided the inspiration for part of John Irving’s novel, A Widow for One Year (1999), and Sidney Sheldon’s If Tomorrow Comes (1986). Albert Camus wrote La Chute (1970), while based here. More recently, Deborah Moggach’s Tulip Fever (1998) depicted life in 16th-century Amsterdam. The city has played a prominent role in the works of Dutch authors – two well-known books that have been translated into English include Blue Mondays (1994) by Arnon Grunberg and Bitter Herbs (1957) by Marga Minco. The unique ambience of Amsterdam permeates the work of Nicolas Freeling, in his detective novel, A Long Silence (1972). Perhaps the most famous work to come out of Amsterdam, however, is The Diary of Anne Frank. Marga Minco’s Empty House (1986) may be less famous but it explores some of the same issues. A lighter work is Janwillem van de Wetering’s Amsterdam Cops (2001), a collection of cop stories that are mainly set in the capital’s underworld. |
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