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_City Overview Athens (Athina) is named after Athena – the goddess of wisdom – who, according to legend, won the city after defeating Poseidon in a duel. The goddess’ victory was celebrated by the construction of a temple on the Acropolis, the site of the city’s earliest settlement in Attica. As a city state, the coastal capital of Athens reached its heyday in the fifth century BC. The office of the statesman, Pericles – between 461BC and his death in 429BC – saw an unprecedented spate of construction resulting in many of the great classical buildings – the Parthenon, Erechtheion, Hephaisteion and the temple at Sounion – now regarded as icons of ancient Greece. Physical evidence of the city’s success was matched by achievements in the intellectual arts. Democracy was born, drama flourished and Socrates conceived the foundations of Western philosophy. Remarkably, although the cultural legacy of this period has influenced Western civilisation ever since, the classical age in Athens only lasted for five decades. Under the Macedonians and Romans, the city retained a privileged cultural and political position but became a prestigious backwater of the Empire rather than a major player. The birth of Christianity heralded a long period of occupation and decline, culminating in 1456 and four centuries of Turkish domination, which has left an indelible cultural mark on the city. By the end of the 18th century, Athens was also suffering the indignity of having the artistic achievements of its classical past removed by looting collectors. Modern Athens was born in 1834, when the city was restored as the capital of a newly independent Greece. Greek refugees flooded the city at the end of the Greek–Turkish war, swelling the population. After World War II, American money funded a massive expansion and industrialisation programme. The rapid growth of the post-war years and the high temperatures of its Mediterranean climate, have created a city that can often be polluted and could be described as an urban sprawl. Excessive traffic creates a gridlock on the streets of Athens and noxious fumes (néfos) in the air, although great efforts are being made to reduce this. Visitors with visions of gleaming marble and philosophers in white robes are understandably perturbed that the architectural achievements of Athens’ classical past are surrounded by the unforgiving concrete of indiscriminate 20th-century urbanisation. Over three million visitors come to the city each year but the majority see the sights as quickly as possible – as if fulfilling some cultural duty – before heading off for the easy hedonism of the Greek islands. However, Athens repays a closer acquaintance. In addition to the celebrated classical sites, the city boasts Byzantine, medieval and 19th-century monuments, as well as one of the best museums in the world and areas of surprising natural beauty. Despite the traffic, an appealing village-like quality becomes evident in the cafés, tavernas, markets and the maze of streets around the Pláka. Moreover, Athens has the finest restaurants and the most varied nightlife in the country and remains a major European centre of culture, celebrated each year at the Athens Festival. The metropolitan area, including the port at Piraeus, is the indisputable industrial and economic powerhouse of the country and the return of the Olympic Games in 2004 is prompting a flurry of new development. Major projects include the new, now fully functioning, Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, the extension of the Athens metro system, the building of new sports venues and the upgrading of hotel accommodation. In addition, ancient sites within the city centre are being linked by a traffic-free ‘archaeological promenade’ intended to enhance the urban environment for locals and visitors alike. Language In addition to Greek, people employed in the tourist trade generally speak some English, French or German and it is relatively easy to get by in Athens without attempting to say anything more complicated than moussaka or retsina. However, anyone who wishes to elevate him- or herself above the humble tourísta should attempt to learn at least a few basic phrases in Greek. The language itself deserves this mark of respect; not only is it beautiful, but it is also one of the foundation stones of almost all other European languages. Moreover, getting around the city is much easier once the Greek alphabet has been mastered. In the twentieth century, Greek suffered from a bitter struggle between Dhimotikí (popular Greek) and Katharévoussa (cleansed Greek). The latter was introduced by the first rulers of independent Greece, who sought to recreate the purity of their classical past by reinstating long-defunct vocabulary and grammar. Dhimotikí, the form of the language that had naturally evolved over Greece’s long history was repressed and Katharévoussa became the official language of government, business and the professions. In recent years, however, Dhimotikí has reasserted itself as the national language and is used in all forms of life with the exceptions of the church and the legal profession. Phrases Yes - Néh No - Óhi Hello - Giásou Goodbye - Andío sas Please - Parakaló Thank you - Efharistó My name is … - Meh léne … How are you? - Ti kánis / ti kánete? I’m very well - Kalá ímeh I feel ill - Ímeh arostos How much does it cost? - Póso káni? Do you speak English? - Miláte anglika? I don’t understand - Dhen katalavéno Cheers - Giamas Where is …? - Pou ine …? Entrance - Issodos Exit - Exodos Open - Aniktó Closed - Klistó Toilets - Toualétes Doctor - Iatrós Hotel - Ksenodhohío Restaurant - Estiatorio/ taverna Beer - Bira Wine - Krasi Menu - Kataloghos Today - Símera Tomorrow - Ávrio Monday - Deftéra Tuesday - Tríti Wednesday - Tetárti Thursday - Pémpti Friday - Paraskebí Saturday - Sábato Sunday - Kiriakí One - Éna Two - Dhío Three - Trís/tria Four - Téseres /tésera Five - Pénde Six - Éksi Seven - Eftá Eight - Okhtó Nine - Enyá Ten - Dhéka Twenty - Íkosi Thirty - Triánda Forty - Saránda Fifty - Penínda Sixty - Eksínda Seventy - Evdhomínda Eighty - Ogdhónda Ninety - Enenínda One Hundred - Ekató One Thousand - Hílies Getting There By Air Athens International Airport S.A. Eleftherios Venizelos (ATH) Tel: 210 353 0000. Fax: 210 353 2284. E-mail: info@aia.gr Website: www.aia.gr or www.athensairport-2001.gr The newly-opened Athens international airport (Eleftherios Venizelos), located 27km (17 miles) northeast of the city, can now serve up to 16 million passengers annually – a capacity which should rise to 50 million annually by 2004. Major airlines: Greece’s national airline, Olympic Airways, Syngrou 96 (tel: 210 926 9111 or 936 3363 (flight information) or 966 6666 (reservations); fax: 210 926 7154; website: www.olympic-airways.gr), operates flights to major cities in Europe and the Middle East, as well as to Boston, New York, Montreal, Toronto, Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo, Bangkok, Johannesburg, Melbourne and Sydney. Its domestic flights cover destinations throughout mainland Greece and the islands. Other international airlines serving Athens include Air Canada, Air France, Alitalia, Austrian Airlines, British Airways, Delta Airlines, Iberia Airlines, KLM – Royal Dutch Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, TAP Air Portugal and Virgin Atlantic. Approximate flight times to Athens: From London is 3 hours 15 minutes; from New York is 10 hours 10 minutes; from Los Angeles is 18 hours 35 minutes; from Toronto is 12 hours and from Sydney is 22 hours 5 minutes. Airport facilities: These include banks, bureaux de change, duty-free shops, bars, restaurants, a post office, a GNTO tourist information office (tel: 210 353 0448) and car hire companies Alamo National Car Rental, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz and Sixt. 24-hour parking is also available. Business facilities: In addition to the business lounge, there is the Athens International Airport Business Centre (tel: 210 353 0000) equipped with booths furnished with PCs, Internet access, phones, printers, photocopy machines, faxes and secretarial services. A meeting room is also available. Arrival/departure tax: None. Transport to the city: The Athens Urban Transport Organisation (tel: 185) runs 24-hour express bus services linking the airport to the city (journey time – approximately 40 minutes, depending on traffic). Line E94 runs to Ethniki Amyna metro station, Line E95 runs to Syntagma Square in the city centre and Line E96 runs to Pireaus Port. Tickets, which must be validated, cost €2.90 and allow for 24 hours of unlimited travel on all forms of public transport (bus, tram and metro). These are available for purchase from the driver. Taxi services are also available – the cost is approximately €25 to the city centre or €30 to Pireaus Port. Getting There By Water Athens is served by the major port at Pireás (Piraeus), run by the Piraeus Port Organisation – OLP (tel: 210 422 6000). Facilities at the port include left-luggage, ATMs, banks, bureaux de change, bars, restaurants, taxis, car hire and numerous travel agencies selling ferry tickets – agencies can also arrange accommodation on the islands. Ferry services: Many visitors to Greece head straight from Athens International Airport to Piraeus, for a ferry to the Greek islands (website: www.greekislands.gr). From Piraeus, there are regular crossings to ports in the following areas of Greece: Dodecanese, Cyclades, Peloponnese, Saronic Gulf Islands, Crete, Samos, northeastern Aegean Islands and northern Greece. Schedules change frequently and services are reduced out of season. Travellers can obtain up-to-date information from the service provider or from the Athens News, which lists daily departure times. The local port police, limenarhío (tel: 108), are also a good source of information, although their English is limited. Tickets can be bought from the shipping lines’ offices located around the quaysides – the larger lines also have offices in the city centre. Three classes of ticket offer varying degrees of comfort and cabin bunks can also be booked. Most ships have limited restaurant facilities. During high season (March/April and August) it is wise for visitors to buy tickets in advance, as inter-island travel is very popular. Hydrofoils are a fast alternative to the ferries, although services are more expensive and drastically reduced in adverse weather conditions. The majority of hydrofoils from Piraeus are operated by Hellas Flying Dolphin (website: www.dolphins.gr). Reservations and tickets can be purchased at the main booking office at Akti Kondili in Piraeus, or from authorised agents in the city centre. There are also international services between Piraeus and Kusadasi and Izmir (Turkey), Limassol and Larnica (Cyprus), Port Said and Alexandria (Egypt), Venice (Italy) and Haifa (Israel), although services to Israel are currently suspended due to the situation there. Transport to the city: A metro line runs between the centre of Athens and the port of Piraeus terminus (journey time – approximately 25 minutes). There is also an express bus, Line E96, every 30 minutes from the airport to Piraeus. A taxi between the port and the centre of Athens will cost approximately €9. Getting There By Road Main roads are designated by blue signs. Traffic drives on the right. The maximum speed limit for cars is 120kph (70mph) on motorways, 110kph (60mph) outside built-up areas and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. It is illegal to carry spare petrol (venzeni) in the vehicle. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Seatbelts must be worn and children under ten must sit in the back seat. Penalties for drinking and driving over the limit are severe – the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.05%, above 0.08% is considered a criminal offence. A national driving licence is acceptable for EU nationals but nationals of other countries may need an International Driving Permit. EU nationals in possession of a Green Card, which provides international third-party insurance, are permitted to import a foreign-registered car, caravan, motorcycle, boat or trailer for a maximum of six months (or up to 15 months for a fee). A Green Card is no longer a legal requirement in Greece for visits of less than three months, however, without it, insurance is limited to the minimum legal cover. Car registration documents must be carried at all times. The Greek Automobile and Touring Club (ELPA), Messogion 2-4 (tel: 210 779 1615; fax: 210 778 6642), provides members of associated national automobile clubs with 24-hour assistance on main roads. Emergency breakdown services (toll free): ELPA 104 Routes to the city: The PATHE (Patra, Athens and Thesaloniki) motorway runs from Patra in the west via Athens to Thessaloniki and Tsoliades on the FYROM (Former-Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia) border. To reach both Istanbul and Sofia, drivers must head north on the E75 to Thessaloniki. From there, Istanbul is east on the E90, crossing the border at Kipi, while Sofia lies northeast on the E79, crossing the border at Promahonas. Driving times to Athens: From Thessaloniki – 6 hours 45 minutes; from Sofia – 11 hours 30 minutes; from Istanbul – 16 hours 45 minutes. Coach services: There are two domestic long-distance bus terminals in Athens – terminal A, Kifissou 100, and terminal B, Liossion 260. Buses link Athens and all the main towns in Attica, northern Greece and the Peloponnese. Bus schedule information is avaiable (tel: 210 512 4910; website: www.ktel.org). Hellenic Railways Organisation – OSE (tel: 210 529 7777; website: www.osenet.gr) runs regular international bus services to Albania, Turkey and Bulgaria, departing from Pelopónnisos train station, Dheliyáni (tel: 210 513 1601). Getting There By Rail The Greek railway service is run by the Hellenic Railways Organisation (OSE) Karolou 1 (tel: 210 529 7777 (international services); website: www.osenet.gr). Greek trains have first- and second-class accommodation and there are luxury sleeper trains on selected routes. However, the rail service is limited to the northern and eastern mainland and parts of the Peloponnese. Trains are cheaper than buses but generally much slower. Reservations are available for no extra charge and there is a 20% rebate on return fares. Touring cards, issued by the OSE, entitle the holder to unlimited second-class travel at a reduced cost for ten, 20 or 30 days – there are further discounts for groups. The main railway stations in Athens are Larissis (tel: 210 529 8837) and Pelopónnisos (tel: 210 513 1601), both situated off Dheliyáni. Facilities at these stations are minimal, basically left-luggage and a couple of bars. Rail services: The domestic railway network is limited to the mainland and is generally slower than travel by road. Destinations include Patra (journey time – 4 hours), Kalamata (journey time – 7 hours) and Argos (journey time – 3 hours). Trains to the Peloponnese depart from Pelopónnisos station. Trains for destinations in northern Greece, Evia and the rest of Europe – including London (journey time – 3.5 days) depart from Larissis station. International trains are limited to services for Bulgaria, FYROM (the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia) and Turkey and require a change at Thessaloniki (journey time – 6 hours). Transport to the city: Buses and taxis are readily available at both stations, while Larissis station is connected directly to the centre (Syntagma) by metro (Line 2). Getting Around Public Transport Public transport in the city is run by the Athens Urban Transport Organisation (tel: 185). The transport system consists of buses, trolley buses, city-centre minibuses and a metro/electric train service, which is currently being expanded rapidly, due to the forthcoming Olympic Games. Public transport is cheap and extensive but often overcrowded, particularly during the siesta rush hour of 1300-1500. Fares are low – a bus ticket costs €0.45 and a metro ticket €0.70. Tickets are sold at bus terminals and some street kiosks (periptera) and must be validated in orange machines located onboard the buses or in the metro station. Failure to produce a validated ticket on request results in a heavy fine. Monthly passes for the entire urban network are available for €35. Blue buses run daily 0500-2430 – there is a limited night service on the major routes. Services are often disrupted by traffic jams and strikes. The most visited parts of the city, including the major attractions, are served by several yellow trolley bus routes. In most cases, however, it is preferable to walk. Minibuses 100, 150 and 200 operate in the historic triangle and commercial centre, stopping regularly at red signs Monday to Friday 0630-1700 (Tuesday until 2100). Minibus 150, which runs along the street Stadiou, connecting Omonia Square and Syntagma Square, is free. The other routes charge €0.45 like normal buses. The original electric train/metro line (Line 1) runs north–south between the suburb of Kifissia and the port at Piraeus daily 0500-2415. The metro (website: www.ametro.gr) is undergoing an expansion. Line 2 now brings sightseers within a ten-minute walk of the upper city with its new Acropolis station, while the new east–west line (Line 3) runs from Syntagma to Ethniki Amyna and should be extended all the way to Eleftherios Venizelos airport by 2004. Taxis A number of companies operate radio cabs in Athens, which can be reserved over the phone for a €2 charge. Reputable companies include Athina 1 (tel: 210 921 7942), Ermis (tel: 210 411 5200), Hellas (tel: 210 645 7000) and Ikaros (tel: 210 515 2800). Official yellow taxis with red-on-white number plates can also be hailed on the street. During the siesta rush hour of 1300-1500, taxis are in demand and it is not unusual to share the ride (but not the fare) with other passengers. This practice is safe, if not entirely legal. Tipping is not customary, although taxi drivers may expect to ‘keep the change’ when handed a note. Taxis in Athens are probably cheaper than in any other European capital but unscrupulous drivers may occasionally try to overcharge naïve tourists, so it is wise for travellers to ensure that the meter is switched on and functioning before departure. The meter starts at €0.74 and is non-negotiable. Within the city the rate is €0.24 per kilometre, outside the city the rate is €0.40 and there is a minimum charge of €1.50. Extra charges for baggage, trips to the airport and late-night journeys are explained in English on charts inside the taxis. Limousines The Greek Limousine Drivers’ Union (tel: 210 323 3957) provides information on limousine services in Athens. Providers include Astra Limousine Service (tel: 210 923 6755), Limousine Service (tel: 210 323 4120) and Convecta Travel Agency and Limousine Services, Amalias 46 (tel: 210 322 5090). Rates start at around €270 for an eight-hour hire period. Driving in the City Despite the government’s efforts, the centre of Athens still has a traffic and pollution problem. There are times when the streets become completely clogged with traffic and pollution levels are high. The tradition of the afternoon siesta means that in summer, there are four daily rush hours but the busiest is 1300-1500 when people are going to and from home, offices, shops, schools during the siesta. The other busy periods are 0800-0900, 1700-1800 and 2000-2100. The latest traffic-reduction scheme bans all motor vehicles from the commercial centre of Athens – defined as the area around Stadiou, Mitropoleos, Athinas, Omonia Square, Syntagma Square and Monastiráki Square. There is, however, limited access for cars to and from hotels and car parks along the streets Nikis–Karageorgi Servias–Voulis and N. Nikodemou. The scheme is slowly being extended to create a traffic-free zone in the whole central area. Parking is extremely difficult in central Athens, being restricted in many streets. Vehicles contravening these regulations may be towed away. Pavements are often blocked by desperate drivers who have been unable to find a parking place. Luxury hotels have their own garages, otherwise drivers can try the central but very crowded car park at Kathmonos Square (a ten-minute walk from Syntagma Square). The main parking lot on the outskirts of the city centre is at the new Olympic Stadium, at Irini. From here it is a 25-minute metro ride into the centre. For all these reasons, driving in Athens cannot really be recommended to visitors. A car is more of a problem than an asset in Athens, although visitors may wish to rent a car for a trip out of the city. Car Hire Regulations vary from company to company, however, in all cases drivers require a valid driving licence. A national driving licence is sufficient for nationals of EU states. Other nationalities should obtain an International Driving Permit. The minimum age for hiring a car ranges from 21 to 25 years. Most car hire firms have offices in Athens and at the airport. Major providers include Avis (tel: 210 322 4951; website: www.avis.gr), Budget (tel: 210 349 8800; website: www.budget.gr), Europcar (tel: 210 924 8810; website: www.europcar.com) and Hertz (tel: 210 922 0102; website: www.hertz.gr). Hire rates for a small car start at around €50 per day. Scooter & Bicycle Hire Scooters are a popular means of transport in Athens. Riding a bicycle in Athens, however, cannot be not advised. Rent Moto, Robertou Gali 1, Makrigiani (tel: 210 923 4939; fax: 210 923 4885; website: www.motorent.gr), hires out scooters and bicycles. They have a second office in Piraeus. Rates for scooter hire start at €20 for 24 hours (plus a credit card deposit). Business Business Profile The public sector is still a dominant force in the Greek economy, accounting for about half GDP, despite increasing deregulation and privatisation. GDP increased by 4.0% in 2001, compared to a 4.3% increase in 2000. Unemployment in Greece stood at 10.3% (2001), showing a reasonable decrease on the 2000 figure of 11.1%, while unemployment in Athens remained the same at around 10%. The country receives substantial funding from the European Union (equivalent to more than 4% GDP per annum). Greece is a key link to the emerging markets in the Balkans and the eastern Mediterranean. As the only EU state in this part of Europe, the country is regarded as a zone of relative economic and political stability within a particularly volatile region. Greece has the largest merchant marine fleet in the world, with an 18% share of international commercial tonnage. Greater Athens, including the port of Piraeus, is a major hub for international transport and trade – a role that has been enhanced by the opening of Eleftherios Venizelo, the new international airport. The metropolitan area also accounts for most of the country’s industry: tourism, textiles, machine tools and shipping are among the key sectors. Outside Athens, the agricultural sector continues to be a major employer (20% – Eurostat), although its contribution to national GDP is declining. Tourism is the country’s largest industry, with turnover estimated at $10 billion, accounting for about 8.5% of GDP. Since 1987, the Athens Stock Exchange (website: www.ase.gr) has become one of the largest of 25 emerging stock exchanges. The ‘Top 5’ companies in 2000 were Hellenic Telecommunications Organisation, National Bank of Greece, EFG Eurobank Ergasias, Coca-Cola HBC and Cosmote Mobile Telecommunications. The award of the 2004 Olympic Games has prompted a surge of investment. Athens is experiencing a building boom and the construction industry is projected to be producing annual revenues of nine billion Euros (or 20% of GDP) by 2004. Major projects include the Athens metro extension, the building of new sports venues around town and the creation of a further 4000 hotel rooms to accommodate the influx of visitors. Greece’s admission to the single European currency in January 2002 was another boost to the country’s economy. Austerity measures introduced to meet the EMU's (European Monetary Union) requirements have resulted in a downward rate of inflation –3.4% in 2001, compared to an average of 3.9% between 1997 and 2000. The Athens Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Akademias 7, just off Syntagma Square (tel: 210 360 2411), gives information about business opportunities in the city, while the British-Hellenic Chamber of Commerce, 25 Vassilissis Sofias (tel: 210 721 0361; website: www.bhcc.gr), can provide British people with information about doing business in Greece. Business Etiquette The working day in Athens is fairly flexible. In general, offices are open 0830-1630, although shops and banks may have different hours – smaller organisations still close for a siesta in the afternoon during summer. Punctuality is expected for meetings, although a Greek host may keep a business visitor waiting for a short time. It is usual to shake hands to greet a business contact but embracing and kissing colleagues is not uncommon, although not upon first acquaintance. Business cards are exchanged after introductions have been made. Business attire is relatively formal – men are expected to wear suits and ties and women should wear suits. More casual wear is sometimes acceptable during the summer but local businesspeople tend to dress conservatively. Hospitality is an important part of Greek culture and visiting businesspeople may well be taken to lunch. Greeks do not drink excessively but they will appreciate it if foreigners show enthusiasm to sample Greek wines and spirits. Almost everyone smokes, so visitors should not be surprised by endless offers of cigarettes. Gifts from abroad are well received but not expected, unless a visitor is invited to a colleague’s home, in which case a gift of wine, sweets or flowers is usual. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Modern Athens is divided into districts but Plateía Síndagmatos (Syntagma or Constitution Square) is the epicentre of the city – almost everything worth seeing in Athens is within half an hour’s walk of here. Other useful landmarks are the unavoidable Acropolis and Lykavittós Hill. The Pláka covers the area below the Acropolis, to the east of the Agorá. Despite being heavily commercialised, this is the most pleasant part of the city to explore on foot. Narrow winding streets are lined with 19th-century buildings, souvenir shops and bustling tavernas. In particular, Anafiótika – at the base of the Acropolis – is a delightful area that recreates the style and atmosphere of a Greek village. The area was settled by workers from the island of Anafi, who came to Athens to build a palace for King Otto. In addition to simply wandering the streets or watching the world go by over a lengthy coffee, the highlights of the Pláka include several specialist museums. On the edge of this district, the Monastíraki bazaar is a grimy, bustling slice of authentic Athenian life, with neighbouring Psirri the currently fashionable area for bars, restaurants and nightlife. At the other end of the scale, the Kolonáki district on the edge of Lykavittós is wealthy and fashionable, providing a welcome retreat from the harder edges of the city. The tourist season lasts from April to October and is at its peak in August, when the city is crowded and often horribly hot. The Ministry of Culture’s website provides information for visitors about the main monuments in Athens (website: www.culture.gr). Tourist Information Greek National Tourism Organisation (GNTO) Infodesk Amerikis 2 Tel: 210 331 0562. E-mail: info@gnto.gr Website: www.gnto.gr Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1630. Passes There are no tourist passes currently available in Athens. Key Attractions The highly regarded Ethnikó Archaiologikó Mouseio (National Archaeological Museum), at Patission 44, has been omitted from this list as it will be closed for renovation work throughout 2003. Akrópoli The Acropolis (upper city) dominates both the city’s skyline and any tourist’s itinerary. The name refers to the rocky outcrop that formed the site of the original settlement in Athens. Foundations for a temple dedicated to Athena were laid in 490BC, however, work did not begin in earnest until the Golden Age of Pericles (461-429BC). The Acropolis site includes the Acropolis Museum and four sacred buildings, all from the fifth century BC. The steep ascent to the summit leads to the Propylaea, a monumental gateway in the Ionic and Doric styles, which serves as the entrance to the site. The Temple of Athena Nike is to the left of the Propylaea – the original was destroyed by Turkish forces in the 17th century but has been beautifully restored. The Parthenon is the largest building on the Acropolis and an icon of Western civilisation. Built entirely from marble that glows gold at sunset, the Parthenon was intended as a sanctuary for Athena and housed a statue (no longer in existence) of the goddess. Despite the tourists, the perfect harmony of the structure is still awe-inspiring. Various British individuals, including Lord Elgin, seized many of the Parthenon’s greatest sculptures in the 19th century and sold them to the British Museum. The controversy over whether the Elgin Marbles will return to Greece for the 2004 Olympics is ongoing. Nevertheless, the Acropolis Museum and the Acropolis Study Centre contain many sculptures and artefacts originally found within its walls. The Erechtheion Temple is a dual shrine to Athena and Poseidon-Erechtheus and was built on the site of the mythical battle between the two deities. The south side features a series of six support columns designed as maidens or caryatids. Due to severe environmental damage, the caryatids have been replaced by models. Many of the treasures from the Acropolis can be found in the Acropolis Museum, in the southeast corner of the complex. Nine rooms house objects from the four buildings, including five original caryatids. Acropolis Hill, centre of Athens Tel: 210 321 0219 (Acropolis) or 323 6665 (museum). Fax: 210 321 4172 (Acropolis and museum). Transport: Acropolis or Monastiráki metro. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); Mon-Fri 0800-1630, Sat and Sun 0800-1430 (winter). Admission: €12 (all inclusive). Agorá Although the site is now a jumble of monuments and ruins from different periods, in Athens’ heyday, the Agorá (market) was the focus of city life, serving not only as a place of trade but also as the city’s political, administrative and cultural heart. Law courts, temples and public offices were all based in this area, where ordinary Athenians, stall holders and merchants mingled with officials, politicians and philosophers. The site is dominated by the Hephaisteion (Temple of Haephaistos), from the fifth century BC, one of the best-preserved ancient temples in Greece. Its name comes from the god of fire and metalwork – this area of the city was originally the blacksmiths quarter – but it is also known as the Thiseío (Theseion), because its friezes depict images of Theseus from Greek mythology. The Ágioi Apóstoloi (Church of the Holy Apostles) dates from the second century AD and was restored in the 1950s. Interior features include post-Byzantine frescoes and early wall paintings. Other attractions around the Agorá include the statues of the ten eponymous heroes, Poikile Stoa and the Basileios Stoa. The fascinating Museo tis Agoras (Museum of Agorá) contains an eccentric array of everyday artefacts found in the area. It is housed in the Stoa Attalou (Stoa of Attalos). This two-storey structure from the second century BC was restored by the American School of Archaeology and is thought to have been an early shopping arcade containing 42 separate shops. Adrianou 24 Tel/fax: 210 321 0185. Transport: Thissio or Monastiráki metro. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900. Admission: €4 (all inclusive). Vizantino Mouseio (Byzantine Museum) Housed in a delightful neo-classical building, this museum traces the course of Byzantine art through the centuries. Besides boasting one of the richest collections of icons in the world, the museum exhibits mosaics, sculptural works and jewellery from the area that is now Greece, as well as from other regions of the former Byzantine Empire. Also of interest are three reconstructions of period churches – early Christian, Byzantine and post-Byzantine. Vassilissis Sofias 22 Tel: 210 723 1570. Transport: Evangelismos metro. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0830-1500. Admission: €4. Mouseío Ellinikis Laikis Technis (Museum of Greek Folk Art) Lying on the edge of Pláka, this museum displays a vast and colourful collection of folk art that dates from 1650 onwards. Works are divided into specific sections devoted to costumes, embroidery, weaving, gold and silver jewellery, woodwork, weaponry, Greek shadow theatre and hand-painted ceramics – the highlights are the traditional costumes, set off against suggestive reconstructions of houses relating to their specific regions. Another highlight is the Theofilis Room, the reconstruction of a house on the island of Lesvos, which was frescoed by Theofilis Hadjimichael (1868-1934), a self-taught artist who took his inspiration from both Greek mythology and the socio-political situation of his country at that time. Kidathineon 17 Tel: 210 321 3018. Transport: Monastiráki metro. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1400. Admission: €2. Mouseío Ellinikón Mousikon Orgánon (Museum of Greek Musical Instruments) Housed in a renovated 19th-century mansion in the heart of Pláka, the Mouseío Ellinikón Mousikon Orgánon displays a collection accumulated by the musicologist, Fivos Anoyanakis. This museum is great fun – each display case is accompanied by a headset, so that visitors can listen to the sound of the instruments. Films in the entrance feature their construction and performance. Information is provided in English. Diogenous 1-3 Tel: 210 325 0198. Transport: Monastiráki metro. Opening hours: Tues and Thurs-Sun 1000-1400, Wed 1200-1800. Admission: Free. Mouseío Kykladikís kai Archaías Ellinikís Téchnis (Museum of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art) The museum houses the private collection of Nikolas P Goulandris. Beautiful exhibits from the Cycladic civilisation (3000-2000BC) form the focus of the collection but other artefacts cover the pre-Minoan Bronze Age and the post-Mycenaen age up to 700BC. The museum makes good use of multimedia information and is less daunting than the National Archaeological Museum. Neofítou Dhouká 4 Tel: 210 722 8321 or 724 9706 (museum shop). Website: www.cycladic-m.gr Transport: Bus 234. Opening hours: Mon and Wed-Fri 1000-1600, Sat 1000-1500. Admission: €3.50 (concessions available). Panathinaiko Stádio (Panathenaic Stadium) The elegant three-sided stone stadium was built in 1896, for the first of the modern-day Olympic Games. The design by Ernst Ziller was based on the plan of a fourth-century BC stadium that originally stood on the site. The Stádio is the finishing point for the Athens marathon in October and should not to be confused with the modern Olympic Stadium that was built in the north of the city in 1982. Leoforos Ardhittou Transport: Bus 2, 4, 11 or 12. Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk. Admission: Free. Further Distractions Green Spaces The Ethnikós Kipos (National Gardens) are a welcome green haven in the centre of the city. The gardens have peacocks and a small botanical museum. Another calm spot is the Kerameikós Cemetery, named after the patron saint of potters and ceramics and dating from the 12th century BC. Tombstones range from the grand to the poignantly simple. Ethnikós Kipos Amalias Tel: 210 721 1178. Transport: Syntagma metro. Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk. Admission: Free. Kerameikós Cemetery and Museum Ermou 148 Tel: 210 346 3552. Transport: Thissio metro. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900. Admission: €2. Mikrí Mitrópoli (Little Mitrópolis) Although Megáli Mitrópoli (Great Mitrópolis), which serves as Athens’ cathedral, dominates the square of the same name, visitors may well prefer Mikrí Mitrópoli (Little Mitrópolis), an exquisite 12th-century church with a mystical atmosphere and charming name – Panaghía Gorgoepiíkoös (the Madonna who swiftly hears). Mitropoleos Square Tel: 210 322 1308. Transport: Monastiráki metro. Opening hours: Daily 0700-1300. Admission: Free. Tours of the City Walking Tours Athens is well suited to walking, as most of the sights are centrally located. The ‘Unification of Archaeological Sites’ is a project currently underway to link the city’s ancient sites by a four-kilometre (2.5-mile) traffic-free promenade. The first phase of the route, leading from the Acropolis metro station along Dionissiou Areopagitou on the south side of the Acropolis, has already been inaugurated. The entire project should be completed for 2004. There are no organised walking tours as such, although numerous companies and travel agencies offer their own programme of tours and can arrange tailor-made tours for groups. For example, Fantasy Travel (tel: 210 331 0530; website: www.fantasy.gr) do a condensed half-day ‘Athens Sightseeing Tour’, which includes the Parliament building on Syntagma Square, Hadrian’s Arch, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum. This runs daily, in groups of up to 50 and costs €43 per person. For guided tours, visitors are advised to contact the Association of Tourist Guides of Athens, Apollonas 9A (tel: 210 322 9705 or 0090), which provides guides for individual and group tours and supplies licensed guides to the travel agencies. It is often more satisfactory to go it alone, armed with a map and a guidebook. Syntagma Square makes a logical starting point. From here walkers can either advance up Vassilissis Sofias and then left through the well-to-do district around Kolonáki Square and on to Lykavittós Hill, or go south along Amalias past the National Gardens, turning right towards the Pláka and the Acropolis. Another route to the Acropolis might start at the bazaar on Monastiráki Square, leading uphill past the Agorá. A wander around the Pláka, using the main thoroughfares of Adrianou and Kidhathinaion for orientation, is equally rewarding. Excursions For a Half Day Temple of Poseidon: Built in 444BC, the Temple of Poseidon stands on the tip of Cape Sounion, overlooking the Aegean Sea, and is a spectacular sight, particularly when there is a good sunset. The site (tel: 22920 39363) is open daily from 1000 until sunset and admission is €4. The coastal road from Athens offers a dramatic route to the ruins – by car or bus. From the city centre, the regular local bus departs from Mavromateon, a side street next to the National Archaeological Museum. For a Whole Day Delphi: Pilgrims visited Delphi until the fourth century AD, to seek advice from its famous oracles. Situated on dramatic cliffs to the west of Athens, the site includes the Temple of Apollo, the Sacred Way, a vast amphitheatre (offering the best view of the site), a stadium and an excellent museum. The site is open daily in summer 0730-1900 and in winter 0800-1700. The museum (tel: 22650 82312) is open Mon 1200-1830 and Tues-Sun 0730-1900 in summer, with reduced hours in winter. Admission to both site and museum costs €9. Regular buses make the three-hour journey from terminal B at Liossion 260 in Athens. Argo-Saronic Islands: Aígina (Aegina) is the closest island to the city and therefore gets very crowded on summer weekends. However, for visitors based in Athens, Aegina can make a pleasant and accessible day trip. The island boasts good beaches, the pleasant town of Aegina and a beautifully preserved Doric temple – the Temple of Aphaia (490BC). There are frequent ferries to Aegina from Piraeus and the journey by hydrofoil (see Getting There By Water) takes just 40 minutes. The tourist office in Aegina (tel: 22970 25690 or 23613) can provide further information. Alternatives to Aegina include Ydra (Hydra), which is 90 minutes by hydrofoil, Póros, one hour, and Spetsai, just over two hours. Each has its own appeal. Hydra has a beautiful harbour and several delightful fishing villages, the capital of Póros is a pleasant harbour-side town with an archaeological museum, while Spetsai benefits from a partial ban on cars, a covering of pine trees and good beaches. Peloponnese: It is possible to take trips from Athens to the major classical sites in the Peloponnese, including Corinth, Epidaurus and Mycenae. Although the modern town of Kórinthos (Corinth) is fairly unpleasant, the surrounding attractions include Ancient Corinth – the Roman capital of Greece – the acropolis of Acrocorinth and the Corinth Canal. The vast ancient theatre at Epidaurus enjoys a spectacular setting, pin-drop acoustics and is remarkably well preserved. It was built in the fourth century BC, rediscovered in the 19th century and is used for the Epidaurus Festival in July and August (website: www.greekfestival.gr). The site (tel: 27530 22009), which is open daily 0800-1900 in summer (0800-1700 in winter), includes the ruins of an extensive spa and sanctuary, as well as a museum. Admission is €6 and regular buses make the journey from terminal A, Kifissou 100, in Athens. Although research suggests Mykínes (Mycenae) was probably not the home of Agamemnon, as the archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann famously claimed, the site (tel: 27510 76585) is undeniably impressive and remains one of the most popular in Greece. Highlights include the Lion Gate, the Royal Cemetery and the Treasury of Atreus. Mycenae can be reached on the Náfplio bus from terminal A, Kifissou 100, in Athens and is open daily 0800-1900 in summer (closes 2100 in August but 1700 in winter). Admission is €6. Outdoors: For visitors who need a break from so much culture, there are reasonable beaches south of Athens at Glyfada, Vouliagméni and Varkiza. Bus A3 from Syntagma Square goes to Glyfada, Vouliagméni and Varkiza. Alternatively, the mountains that surround the city offer excellent opportunities for walking and hiking and are delightful in spring when the slopes are covered with flowers and wildlife. Mount Párnitha, an hour’s drive north of the city, is easily accessible and has well-marked paths. Hotels At the time of writing, two luxury hotels, the Hilton Hotel and the Hotel Grande Bretagne, were still closed for refurbishment. However, they are both scheduled to reopen in February 2003 and have therefore been included below in the Other Recommendations section. A service charge of 12% and a local tax of 10% is usually included in hotel prices, rather than added to the bill at the end, but visitors should check. The prices given below are the starting prices for a standard double room, including service charge and tax, but excluding breakfast, unless otherwise stated. Business Andromeda Athens This exclusive boutique-style hotel lies east of Kolonáki, close to the US Embassy and the Athens Concert Hall and away from the bustle of the city centre. Secluded and private, the interior is adorned with Persian carpets, Italian pastels and modern, designer furniture. The 30 spacious guest rooms are elegantly decorated and offer full modern comforts. Across the road lie 12 recently opened suites with kitchenettes, which are perfect for longer stays. Executive services include a business centre and a conference room with seating for up to 180. It is located seconds from the Megaro Mousikis metro station and ten minutes by taxi from Syntagma Square. Timoleontos Vassou 22 Tel: 210 641 5000. Fax: 210 646 6361. E-mail: andromeda@slh.com Website: www.slh.com/andromeda Price: From €435. Athenaeum Inter-Continental Purpose built for business travellers and tourists, the Athenaeum Inter-Continental is situated on a busy thoroughfare south of the Acropolis. Its 489 rooms and 54 suites are well equipped, modern and stylish. Conference facilities include the Athenaeum Ballroom, one of largest function rooms in Greece (seating 2200), and the Athenaeum Conference Centre, designed to accommodate up to 150 delegates. Seventeen business rooms function as 24-hour office spaces and two floors are devoted to the Executive Club. The rooftop restaurant offers splendid views over the capital, while leisure facilities include a gym, sauna, solarium and open-air swimming pool. A hotel shuttle bus makes regular ten-minute departures to the city centre. Syngrou 89-93 Tel: 210 920 6000. Fax: 210 920 6500. E-mail: athens@interconti.com Website: www.interconti.com Price: €332 (including breakfast). Best Western Esperia Palace Hotel Located right in the centre of town, close to Syntagma Square and the Parliament, this elegant hotel is popular with business travellers and politicians, thanks to its high standards and moderate prices. Upon entering the lobby, one is immediately struck by the pleasant decor, discreet flower arrangements and helpful staff. The 178 rooms (including a suite and studio) are tastefully furnished with reproduction antiques. Visitors to central Athens frequently complain of sleepless nights due to traffic noise but guest rooms at the Esperia are double-glazed and quite peaceful. There are four conference and meeting rooms (seating ten to 250), and the Athinaios Restaurant offers first-class catering. Stadiou 22 Tel: 210 323 8001. Fax: 210 323 8100. E-mail: esper@otenet.gr Website: www.esperia.gr Price: From €212 (including breakfast). Plaka Hotel Fully refurbished in 2001, the 67 rooms of the Plaka Hotel comprise pine floors, minimalist Italian-style furniture and cheerful, primary-coloured fabrics. Each has an en-suite bathroom and is equipped with telephone, air conditioning, TV, safe and mini-fridge. The modern comforts and central location make this hotel popular with Greek business travellers and tourists – it is close to the Monastiráki metro station and a five-minute walk from Syntagma Square. Up top, there is a roof garden overlooking the jumbled rooftops of Pláka, with a summer snack bar. The nearby Hotel Achilleas, just off Syntagma Square at 21 Lekka, is under the same management. Kapnikareas 7 Tel: 210 322 2096. Fax: 210 322 2412. E-mail: plaka@tourhotel.gr Website: www.plakahotel.gr Price: From €112 (including breakfast). Luxury Hotel Pentelikon This impressive 1920s building is set in its own grounds in the exclusive northern suburb of Kifissia. It is a 30-minute ride by car or metro from the centre but the area’s tree-lined boulevards and fresh air (4°C cooler than in town) make it a welcome retreat. Each of the 44 rooms (including 14 suites) is uniquely decorated in Belle Époque style, with floral wallpaper and fabrics and select antiques. The hotel’s peaceful garden is enhanced by a swimming pool and its five conference and banqueting halls make it a classy venue for business meetings and celebrations. Gourmets come here specifically to dine at the Vardis restaurant and Sting was a recent guest. Diligianni 66, Kifissia Tel: 210 623 0650. Fax: 210 801 0314. E-mail: pentelik@otenet.gr Website: www.hotelpentelikon.gr Price: From €470. St George Lycabettus This luxury hotel, located in Kolonáki on the way up Lycabettus Hill, close to the funicular for St George’s Church, affords fantastic views over Athens. Its 157 rooms are individually furnished in modern style with a classical touch, while each floor follows a theme, with the corridors exhibiting paintings and objects related to various aspects of Greek culture, such as shipping or Byzantine icons. The Grand Balcon restaurant is set in a lovely roof garden and there is a rooftop swimming pool and bar, as well as a gym and sauna. Additional facilities include four conference rooms, a business room and a minibus shuttle service to Syntagma Square. Kleomenous 2 Tel: 210 729 0711. Fax: 210 729 0439. E-mail: info@sglycabettus.gr Website: www.sglycabettus.gr Price: From €270. Moderate Acropolis House Situated in a pedestrian side street in the heart of Pláka, the Houdalakis family have run this friendly and unpretentious pension since 1965. Families are welcome and children much adored. The decor may be rather basic and slightly dingy but the location, a ten-minute walk below the Acropolis, is fantastic. There are 20 comfortable single, double and larger family rooms, both with or without bathrooms. Most rooms have air conditioning, available for a small surcharge. Other amenities include a small breakfast room and a TV lounge. Guests should be prepared to pay a 10% surcharge for stays of less than three days. Kodrou 6-8 Tel: 210 322 2344 or 322 6241. Price: From €50 (including breakfast). Marble House Pension Hidden away in a cul-de-sac off An Zinni, this reasonably priced pension lies in the peaceful residential area of Koukaki, south of the Acropolis. There is a good public bus service to the centre and Pláka is just a ten-minute walk away. Fully refurbished in 2000, the 16 rooms are spanking new – most have private bathrooms and balconies and all have mini-fridges. Air conditioning is available at a small surcharge. There is a homely, family atmosphere, with a small bougainvillea-covered terrace out front where guests can have breakfast, plus a communal lounge with satellite TV. Through the winter, rooms are rented out on a monthly basis. An Zinni 35 Tel: 210 923 4058. Fax: 210 922 6461. Price: From €35. Other Recommendations Art Gallery Hotel Housed in the former studio and gallery of Greek artist Dora Bouki, this hotel lies in a quiet residential street in Koukaki, a ten-minute walk from Pláka, south of the Acropolis. Bouki’s niece now runs the establishment and offers friendly and endlessly patient advice at the reception. There are 20 rooms, all with wooden floors, ceiling fans and bathrooms; many also have balconies affording views of the Acropolis. Long-distance travellers will appreciate the hotel laundry service. Colourful oil paintings by Bouki are on display throughout the building and the resident cat adds to the homely atmosphere. Erecthiou 5 Tel: 210 923 8376. Fax: 210 923 3025. E-mail: ecotec@otenet.gr Price: From €70. Hilton Hotel Due to reopen in February 2003, this hotel is situated opposite the National Art Gallery, within walking distance of the British and American Embassies and close to the Evangelismos metro station, on the edge of Kolonáki. The smart modern hotel has 517 rooms, 220 with views of the Acropolis, for which a small supplement is payable, and is popular with business travellers. All rooms have balconies, as well as telephone, satellite TV, air conditioning, mini-bar. Executive rooms have a few extra perks, such as bathrobe, iron and ironing board, two telephones, modem point and a complimentary Wall Street Journal. The 14 meeting rooms, with a business centre and a vast exhibition space, also make this an ideal conference venue. There are six restaurants, two bars (one on the rooftop), a swimming pool and health centre. Vassilissis Sofias 46 Tel: 210 728 1000. Fax: 210 728 1111. E-mail: gm_athens@hilton.com Website: www.athens.hilton.com Price: From €475. Hotel Grande Bretagne Due to reopen in February 2003 as part of Starwood Hotels’ ‘Luxury Collection’, this exclusive hotel is going to be gloriously restored to its former opulence. The city’s oldest and most prestigious hotel was originally built in 1842 as a private mansion, located opposite the former Royal Palace (now the Parliament), but it was converted into a hotel in 1872 and, since then, royalty, heads of state, film and rock stars have all stayed here. The elegant marble lobby is tastefully arranged with Oriental rugs and chandeliers, while the newly refurbished 328 guest rooms and 74 suites are equally refined. ‘Smart rooms’ will be dedicated to business travellers, providing office workspace and being well-equipped with business facilities. There is a rooftop restaurant offering stunning views over the Acropolis, a health club and spa, an indoor pool, as well as an outdoor rooftop pool and bar. Vassilissis Georgiou 1, Syntagma Square Tel: 210 333 0000. Fax: 210 322 8034. E-mail: info@hotelgrandebretagne-ath.gr Website: www.hotelgrandebretagne-ath.gr Price: From €551. Restaurants The selected restaurants have been divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. Some Athens restaurants are closed for the summer break between mid-July and mid-September. Prices in Greek restaurants will usually already include the 10% sales tax. Also, all Greek restaurants are required by law to add a 13% service charge to the bill and it is still customary to leave the waiter an additional 10% tip on top. The prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they include sales tax but not service charge or tip. Gastronomic Beau Brummel Once Athens’ most expensive restaurant, prices at Beau Brummel, in the smart suburb of Kifissia, have eased up over the last year. The new chef, Jean de Grylleau, has moved away from the former butter-heavy French style of cooking and introduced a lighter and healthier Mediterranean slant, with an emphasis on fresh local garden produce and seafood, such as the sea bass marinated in Noilly Prat and served with fennel sauce. The dining room exudes quiet charm and elegance – parquet flooring, exposed stonework, silver cutlery and crystal glass. Ag Dimitriou 9, Kifissia Tel: 210 623 6780. Fax: 210 623 6981. Website: www.beaubrummel.gr Price: €70. Wine: €30. Dafne’s Situated on the edge of Pláka, opposite Hadrian’s Arch, the interior of this romantic restaurant is frescoed in warm ochre, rusty red and muted green hues. The sheltered courtyard is heated in winter, making open-air dining possible throughout the year. Sophisticated Athenians and foreigners alike come here to savour delicacies such as lamb souvlaki with yoghurt and mint, stifado (stew) of rabbit in Mavrodaphne sweet wine sauce, and yoghurt with quince or rose-petal cordial. Lyssikratous 4, Pláka Tel/fax: 210 322 7971. Price: €35. Wine: €18. Pil Poul Housed in a neoclassical building in Thissio, Pil Poul specialises in creative Mediterranean cuisine. One might begin with warm foie gras with chicory and caramelised port sauce, followed by stuffed lamb fillet with white Greek cheese, tomato and olives, rounded off by pineapple cream with almonds. The dining rooms are adorned with floor-to-ceiling sweeping curtains and glass chandeliers and in summer there is a roof terrace with views of the Acropolis. Recent customers include French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier. Apostolou Pavlou 5, Thissio Tel: 210 342 3665. Fax: 210 341 3046. Price: €60. Wine: €30. Spondi Situated in the Pangrati district, Spondi occupies a vaulted stone cellar, with tasteful minimalist furnishing and subtle lighting. In summer, there are tables outside in a pretty courtyard. The menu features fusion cuisine, with an abundant use of aromatic herbs and spices. Diners can choose from main dishes like pork fillet with mizithra cheese in a sweet and sour yoghurt and fig sauce or John Dory in orange and mustard. Reservations recommended. No lunch. Pirronos 5, Pangrati Tel: 210 756 4021 or 752 0658. E-mail: info@spondi.gr Website: www.spondi.gr Price: €60. Wine: €20. To Varoulko Awarded one Michelin star in 2002, this excellent fish restaurant is based in Piraeus most of the year but transfers to the nearby Yacht Club at Mikrolimano in summer. It is best known for excellent monkfish and creative presentation. The menu varies daily according to what is available in the fish market, but tempting starters might include sturgeon-filled filo pastries and baby squid with pesto, followed by monkfish cooked in wild celery and topped with sautéed hot pepper or swordfish with porcini mushrooms. Deligeorgi 14, Piraeus Tel: 210 411 2043. Price: €45. Wine: €17. Business Azul Kolonáki may be the centre of commerce by day, but by night it is also a glamorous quarter for wining and dining. Azul has earned itself a reputation for innovative Greek-Mediterranean cuisine, with exquisite meat and fish dishes complemented by light sauces and aromatic herbs, such as sole in caper and lemon sauce. The interior room is small, with just a dozen or so tables, but through summer the dining area spills out onto the pedestrian walkway. Reservations recommended. Haritos 43, Kolonáki Tel: 210 725 3817. Price: €30. Wine: €18. Boschetto Set in a small park, close to the Evangelismos metro station, Boschetto specialises in Italian nouvelle cuisine. Tables are arranged in a glass conservatory, as well as outside beneath the trees. Fresh pasta dishes – such as penne with prosciutto, asparagus and pecorino – are a favourite. Also of note are the chilled smoked tomato soup with crabmeat and the sautéed turbot with wild mushrooms and fresh thyme. The service is efficient and professional and the espresso coffee reputedly the best in town. Alsos Evangelismos Tel: 210 721 0893. Fax: 210 722 3598. Price: €55. Wine: €30. Deals Located in Neo Psihiko, Deals is frequented by smart young professionals. The interior comprises an airy, wood-beamed, split-level space; outside there is an ample, leafy patio, sheltered by canvas awnings. For a light lunch, diners can order a colourful salad of mixed lettuce, avocado and salmon. For something more robust, seafood croquettes (shrimp and crab with herb mayonnaise) could be followed by duck fillets with orange, honey, thyme and red pepper. Select cigars are available at the bar. Vasiliou Dimitriou 10, Neo Psihiko Tel: 210 677 3183. E-mail: iceman@otenet.gr Website: www.cafedeals.com Price: €30. Wine: €20. To Kafeneio A popular spot for lunch among embassy staff, To Kafeneio is located in the fashionable Kolonáki business district. The air-conditioned dining room is refined but relaxed, with wood-panelled walls and pink tablecloths. One might begin with melitzanes imam baildi (aubergine in garlic and tomato), followed by hirino me selino (pork casserole with wild celery) served with a creamy lemon avgolemono sauce. Loukianou 26, Kolonáki Tel: 210 722 9056 or 723 7277. Price: €24. Wine: €14. Vardis This Michelin-starred restaurant lies within the Pentelikon Hotel, in the northern suburb of Kifissia. The menu features creative Mediterranean cuisine, with an emphasis on seafood and game. Diners could try the delectable crayfish with string beans and black olives, followed by guinea fowl breast and potato purée with marjoram. The dining room is striking – black leather chairs and sofas, parquet flooring, lemon-coloured table linens and candles. In summer, there are tables in the garden by the pool. Reservations essential. No lunch. Pentelikon Hotel, Diligianni 66, Kifissia Tel: 210 623 0650. Fax: 210 801 0314. E-mail: pentelik@otenet.gr Website: www.hotelpentelikon.gr Price: €80. Wine: €25. Trendy Aristera-Dexia Gazi means ‘gas’ and the district of Athens where Aristera-Dexia is located, once down-at-heel but now rather trendy, takes its name from the city gasworks. Young, sophisticated Athenians come here to eat fusion cuisine, with main dishes including pheasant sausage with parsnips in Madeira sauce. Diners should save room for a dessert – the chocolate mousse with passion fruit puree is exquisite. The interior is quite impressive, with a glass catwalk leading over an underground wine cellar. On warm evenings there are tables outside in the courtyard. Andronikou 3, Gazi Tel: 210 342 2380. Price: €45. Wine: €20. Balthazar Possibly Athens’ most fashionable summer venue, Balthazar is only open between early May and late October, as it transfers to the Rock’n’Roll Café during the winter (see Bars in Nightlife). It is a chic bar-restaurant, contained within a subtly lit, walled garden planted with trees and shrubs. Some people come here just to drink (and be seen) but there is also a tempting choice of dishes, such as goat’s cheese wrapped in grilled vegetables, pork fillet with aubergine purée and oregano or grilled swordfish with green beans and mussel sauce. Reservations recommended. Tsoha 27, Kolonáki Tel: 210 641 2300. Fax: 210 641 2310. Price: €50. Wine: €25. Cosmos Taking up the ground floor of the Deste Foundation Centre for Contemporary Art in Neo Psihiko, the interior of this chic bar-restaurant comprises minimalist furniture, modern paintings and industrial-style lighting. The menu includes an inspiring range of appetisers, pasta, meat, fish and cheese dishes, as well as sandwiches at lunchtime. The second-floor gallery hosts contemporary art exhibitions and remains open until 2400. Omirou 8, Neo Psihiko Tel: 210 672 9150. Price: €35. Wine: €20. De Luxe Located in the Makrigiani district, this open-plan, split-level bar-restaurant is popular with the hip media crowd. One enters into the lively bar area with funky music, while the more sedate dining space is located on an upper level. Beautifully presented dishes include grilled goat’s cheese salad, fish in lemon avgolemono sauce with capers or octopus with black-eyed peas. Falirou 15, Makrigiani Tel: 210 924 3184. Price: €30. Wine: €20. Mamacas Another fine restaurant in Gazi, Mamacas is situated at a crossroads and, in summer, this location is quite surreal, with candlelit, whitewashed wooden tables on four street corners and the towering gasworks in the background. The colour is supplied by the people and the food, which includes starters such as spetzofai (spicy sausage), revithia (chickpea soup) and main courses such as fillet steak with grilled tomato, parsley and onion. There is a wine bar annex across the street. Persefonis 14, Gazi Tel: 210 346 4984. Website: www.mamacas.gr Price: €28. Wine: €16. Budget Damigos (Bakalarakia) Situated in a basement in Pláka, Damigos first opened in 1865, making it possibly the oldest taverna in Athens. One of the two rooms in which it is housed has several enormous wine barrels on display. The menu features hearty local dishes, notably bakaliaros tiganitos (deep-fried cod) and melitzanes tiganites (fried aubergine), both of which are served with delicious skorthalia (thick garlic sauce). The house white wine, a pine-scented retsina, comes from the family vineyard. Kidathineon 41, Pláka Tel: 210 322 5084. Price: €10. Wine: €4 (one-litre carafe). O Platanos One of Pláka’s oldest tavernas, located near the Tower of the Winds, O Platanos has served up home cooking since 1932. There is a good choice of lamb and veal dishes, plus hearty side plates, such as roast potatoes and runner beans in olive oil. The house wine, a barrel retsina, is excellent. The interior is simple – green and white tablecloths and wooden chairs – while tables outside are arranged on a pretty bougainvillea-covered terrace. Diogenous 4, Pláka Tel: 210 322 0666. Price: €14. Wine: €4.80 (one-litre carafe). Taverna Efimero Up a steep flight of steps, just off Exarhia Square, this friendly taverna offers a relaxed, romantic atmosphere amid rustic Bohemian decor. There is no menu – waiters bring a selection of dishes round the tables on large trays, Thessaloniki-style. Customers can choose from a colourful array of mezethes, such as saganaki (fried cheese), dolmathes (stuffed vine leaves), htapothi krasato (octopus in wine), papoutsakia (stuffed aubergines) and horiatiki salata (Greek salad). There is live music some evenings. Corner of Methonis and Themistokleous, Exarhia Tel: 210 384 1848. Price: €10. Wine: €4 (one-litre carafe). Taverna Sigalas Run by the Bairaktaris family since 1879, this cheap, informal eating place is situated opposite Monastiráki metro station. Inside, the walls are decorated with countless photos of the owners and generations of local celebrities who have eaten here. There is an open-plan kitchen area, so diners can watch the cooks as they turn out classic dishes, such as piperies tiganites (fried green peppers), domates yemistes (stuffed tomatoes), kalamarakia tiganita (fried squid) and souvlaki (kebabs). They also have tables outside on the street and do take-aways at a discount. Monastiráki Square 2 Tel: 210 321 3036. Price: €10. Wine: €6.20 (one-litre carafe). Thanasis A classic place to stop for souvlaki kalamaki (shish kebab) served with pita bread and chips, Thanasis is popular with locals and gets unbelievably busy, especially at weekends. The atmosphere is fast and chaotic but traditional and fun. Tables are set in a lofty space above the open-plan kitchen area, as well as outside on the street, just around the corner from the Monastiráki metro station. Mitropoleos 69, Monastiráki Tel: 210 324 4705. Price: €7. Wine: €2.80 (half-litre bottle). Personal Recommendations Abyssinia Cafe This small bistro, close to the Monastiráki metro station, overlooks the furniture restorers’ workshops of the antique market. The marble-top tables, polished, dark wooden furniture and large mirrors create a pleasant atmosphere for morning coffee, lunch or dinner. Everything is made on the premises – favourites include gavros (marinated anchovies), keftedes (meatballs in tomato sauce) and stuffed prunes with nuts, syrup and whipped cream. Those who come here in the evening can enjoy mezethes, ouzo and occasional live accordion music. Kinetou 7, Avisinia Square, Monastiráki Tel: 210 321 7047. Price: €16. Wine: €12. Archeon Gefsis Archeon Gefsis means ‘ancient flavours’ and the menu here features the long-forgotten cuisine of Epicouros. Main dishes include cuttlefish in ink with pinenuts and barley and the desserts – such as apple, pomegranate and yoghurt with honey – are heavenly. Food is served in ancient style, with a spoon and knife but no fork. The Piraeus establishment lies in a beautiful neoclassical building close to Mikrolimano marina. There is a sister restaurant of the same name, located in the city centre at 22 Kodratou. Epidaurou 10, Kastella, Piraeus Tel: 210 413 8617. Fax: 210 413 8618. E-mail: info@arxaion.gr Website: www.arxaion.gr Price: €30. Wine: €10. Eden Located in the heart of Pláka, just below the Acropolis, Eden struck instant success when it opened in 1982 as the country’s first vegetarian restaurant. Everything on the menu is organic, from the soya souvlaki served with brown rice and tzatziki, to the aubergines stuffed with nuts and cheese. Drinks include organic wines, freshly squeezed juices and a choice of herbal teas. It is a relaxed and cheerful place, with salmon-pink walls hung with framed art posters. Lissiou 12, Pláka Tel: 210 324 8858. Price: €13. Wine: €10. Strofi Although totally unassuming from the outside, inside the walls of Strofi are decorated with signed photos of renowned ballerinas, actors and musicians who have eaten here after performing at the nearby Odeon of Herod Atticus. The menu features typical taverna dishes, such as tzatziki (cucumber, yoghurt and garlic), taramasalata (smoked roe pâté) and arni me bamies (lamb with okra). The atmosphere is informal and relaxed and the roof terrace affords unforgettable views of the Acropolis. Rovertou Galli 25, Makrigiani Tel: 210 921 4130. Price: €20. Wine: €12. To Kouti To Kouti (meaning ‘the box’) is located close to the Monastiráki antique market. The interior comprises lofty space with ochre-painted walls, wooden floors and marble-top tables. The ‘green’ menu features light salads, such as rocket and artichoke or avocado and crab, and main dishes, such as chicken rolls stuffed with shrimps and saffron. It is possible to come here just for coffee or a drink and in summer there are tables outside. Adrianou 23, Monastiráki Tel: 210 321 3229. Price: €22. Wine: €17.50. Sport As if Athens’ cultural and architectural achievements are not enough, the city can also boast the modern Olympic Games and the marathon among its lasting legacies. Panhellenic athletic contests were held in Athens from the fourth century BC and reinstated as the modern Olympic Games in 1896. After the initial disappointment of seeing the millennium Olympic Games go to Sydney, Athens is preparing to welcome the Games home again in 2004. The marathon commemorates the Greek soldier Phidippides who ran 42km (26 miles) from the battlefield at Marathon to Athens, to announce Greek victory over the Persians (490BC). He delivered his one word message – ‘Nenikamen’ (we have won) – and then collapsed and died. The annual Athens Marathon retraces his footsteps from the battleground to the 1896 Olympic Stadium. Although the Greek national team has not seen much success in recent years, football is by far the nation’s favourite sport. In the domestic league, the local giants are Panathanaïkós (website: www.pao.gr) and AEK (website: www.aek.com) in Athens and Olympiakós (website: www.olympiakos.gr) in Piraeus. The season runs from September to June and most major football matches are played at the Athens Olympic Stadium, Athens Olympic Sports Complex, Maroussi. Basketball and volleyball are also hugely popular. Individual venue ticket offices sell tickets for national sporting events, while SEGAS, Syngrou 137 (tel: 210 935 9302 or 9346; website: www.segas.gr), sells tickets to international events. The Olympic Committee (tel: 210 200 4000; website: www.athens.olympic.org) provides information on the forthcoming 2004 Olympic Games. The General Secretariat of Sports, Panepistimiou 25 (tel: 210 329 4227; website: www.sport.gov.gr), provides information on sport in Athens. Fishing: There are plenty of opportunities for sea fishing in the Aegean Sea. Details can be obtained from the Anglers and Maritime Sports Club in Piraeus (tel: 210 451 5731). Golf: There is a professional (18-hole, 72-par) golf course at Glyfada. The Glyfada Golf Course, Kypros/15 Panopis, Glyfada (tel: 210 894 6820; website: www.glyfadagolf.gr), is open Tuesday to Sunday from 0730 until sunset and Monday from 1300 to sunset. Membership is not required and admission costs €70 on weekdays and €82 on weekends. A handicap card is requested. Horseracing: The Faliro Ippodromo racetrack is located at the end of Syngrou (tel: 210 942 6331). There is racing on Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 1700 in summer and 1500 in winter. Riding: The Attikos Riding Club (tel: 210 662 6429) is based at Alopekis 5A, Kolonáki. Running: The Athens Marathon (website: www.athensmarathon.com) provides the opportunity to run along the original marathon route. It takes place twice a year and details can be obtained from SEGAS, Syngrou 137 (tel: 210 935 9302 or 9346; website: www.segas.gr). Sailing: The Hellenic Yacht Brokers & Consultants Association (tel: 210 453 3134) can provide a list of over 50 charter companies offering yachts for hire. Information on races and clubs is available from the Hellenic Sailing Federation (tel: 210 323 5560). Swimming: The best beaches are located at Glyfada, Vouliagméni and Varkiza. Tennis: Tennis courts are open to visitors at the Glyfada Golf Course, Kypros/15 Panopis, Glyfada (tel: 210 894 6820), and the Athens Tennis Club (tel: 210 923 2872). Windsurfing: All GNTO-run beaches have windsurfing equipment for hire. The Hellenic Windsurfing Association (tel: 210 323 0068) can provide more information. Shopping Athens’ busiest shopping street is the pedestrian-only Ermou, off Syntagma Square, where shoppers can pick up souvenirs, clothing and accessories. The most upmarket shopping district in Athens is nearby Kolonáki, where designer boutiques rub shoulders with coffee shops and chic restaurants. This area includes Tsakalof, one of the most expensive streets in the world. Thankfully, Athens has not adopted mall culture and no massive retail emporiums taint the city's shopping scene. Monastiráki Flea Market is the largest open-air market in Athens. The market takes place daily 0800-1400 on the edge of the Pláka and offers visitors everything from antique glass to second-hand books, old toys and ancient coins. Kentrikí Agorá (Central Market) is housed in a huge 19th-century metal structure near Omonia Square and is open early morning to early evening, often taking a break for siesta during summer, selling fresh fish, meat and fresh produce. Smaller markets radiate out from the central building. Household items, fresh fruit and vegetables are sold weekly in Laiki (People’s Markets) all over Athens. Shops generally open Monday and Wednesday 0900-1430, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 0900-1330 and 1730-2030 and Saturday 0900-1500. Small, family-run shops may stay open as late as 2200, for the sale of food, drinks and newspapers. Bargains can be snapped up at the sales in August and February. Haggling is standard practice in the tourist areas of Athens and is essential in order to avoid paying extortionate prices. There is a long tradition of silver and gold craftsmanship in Athens and jewellery made here can be of a particularly high quality. There are several shops around Lekka, as well as more expensive outlets along Voukourestiou. Other good-value items include spirits, ceramics and leather goods. Typical Greek gifts include hand-woven rugs, known as flokati, copper coffee pots, virgin olive oil and honey. In Athens, there is a big market in reproductions of museum pieces and religious icons – the best places for visitors to buy these are at the shops in the museums themselves. Visitors from outside the European Union who have been in Greece for less than three months can claim back VAT of up to 18% on purchases over €117. A ‘tax-free cheque’ will be issued in the shop to be presented along with the receipt to customs when leaving the county. Global Refund (website: www.globalrefund.com) can provide more information. Culture Athens probably has the most long-standing and impressive cultural heritage of any city in Europe. However, this pedigree is not confined to past greatness – the city has a number of international performance groups and a continued enthusiasm for the arts is expressed annually at the Athens Festival. In 1985, Athens became the first European City of Culture. The idea to showcase the cultural achievements of cities around the continent was conceived by Melina Mercouri, a Greek actress turned politician. In addition to the venues detailed below, a variety of English-language cultural events are also on offer at the British Council, Kolonáki Square 17 (tel: 210 369 2333; fax: 210 363 4769; website: www.britishcoucil.gr), or at the Hellenic American Union, Massalías 22 (tel: 210 368 0000; website: www.hau.gr). During the summer, tickets for all performances included within the Athens Festival and the Athens International Jazz and Blues Festival are sold at the Athens Festival Box Office, Stadiou 4 (tel: 210 322 1459; website: www.greekfestival.gr). Tickets to other cultural events are available for purchase direct from the venue box offices. Metropolitan Radio Athens (98.4FM) broadcasts a listing of cultural events in English daily at 0730 and 2030. Music: Many tavernas, particularly in the Pláka, put on music and dance shows at night. Most shows are designed for tourists but are lively and entertaining nonetheless. The more authentic Greek music in Athens consists of dhimotiká – folk songs accompanied by guitar, clarinet and violin – and rembétika. The latter is a kind of Greek blues, developed by refugees from Asia Minor in the 1920s. The music combines Middle Eastern and Greek influences and the lyrics deal with the lives of the city’s poor and outcast. The city’s major orchestra is Athens State Orchestra, who hold many of their performances at the Mégaron Mousikis Athenon (Athens Concert Hall), Leofóros Vassilissis Sofías (tel: 210 728 2333; website: www.megaron.gr). This modern venue hosts ballet, opera and classical music events, as well as conferences and exhibitions. The main auditorium seats 2000 and there is also a 500-seat recital hall named after the Greek conductor and composer Dimitri Mitropoulos. The Greek National Opera (website: www.nationalopera.gr) is based at the Olympia Theatre, Akadimias 59-61 (tel: 210 361 2461), which also hosts operas and musical events performed by touring companies and musicians. Theatre: The tragedies of Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripedes, and the comedies of Aristophanes represent the highpoints of ancient Greek theatre and heralded the birth of Western drama. The original performances were held in the Théatro Dionysou (Theatre of Dionysos), on the southern slopes of the Acropolis. This stone auditorium, from the fourth century BC, held 17,000 spectators and remains one of the most atmospheric of Athens’ ancient sites. The ruins are open daily 0830-1430. Nearby, the Odion Iródou Attikou (Odeon of Herod Atticus) is a Roman theatre from the second century AD, also known as the Herodeion (tel: 210 722 7209). The auditorium is usually only open on summer evenings for the Athens Festival, when it provides an impressive setting for performances of music and classical drama. The outdoor Lykavittós theatre, on Lykavittós Hill (tel: 210 722 7209), hosts a range of plays and concerts throughout the summer. The National Theatre of Greece (tel: 210 528 8100; website: www.national-theater.gr) encompasses five theatre groups: the Central Theatre (Kentriki Skini), the New Theatre (Nea Skini) and the Experimental Theatre, all of which are based at Agiou Konstantinou 24-26, as well as the Kotopouli-Rex Theatre and the Katina Paxinou Children’s Theatre, both of which are based at Panepistimiou 48. Altogether, there are around 50 theatres in Athens performing between October and May. However, visitors without fluent Greek may be restricted to the English-language performances of touring companies. Dance: The Dora Stratou Dance Theatre (tel: 210 324 4395) was founded 35 years ago, by a dancer and devotee of Greek folk culture. Each evening May-Sep, the troupe – dressed in traditional costume – puts on a show of exuberant Greek song and dance at an open-air theatre on Filopáppou (Philopapps Hill), opposite the Acropolis. The National Ballet Company also perform in the Olympia Theatre (see Music above). Film: Athens may not be Hollywood but, with hundreds of traditional and modern cinemas throughout the city, the Greek capital is an excellent place to see a film. Many are closed in summer when dozens of open-air screens take over to create impromptu cinemas, such as Cine Pallini, Venizelou 3 and Marathonos Aveneu, Pallini (tel: 210 666 6815/284), which provides chairs and tables in a garden setting, and Thission, Paylou 7, Thissio (tel: 210 347 0980 or 342 0864), with a view of the Acropolis. Asty, Korai 4, off Panepistimou, shows arthouse movies. About 90% of films are shown in the original language. The local press provides listings of English-language films. One of the most respected Greek film directors is Theo Angelopoulos whose credits include the 1995 film, To Vlemma tou Odyssea (Ulysses’ Gaze), starring Harvey Keitel. His 1998 film, Mia Aioniotita ke Mia Mera (Eternity and a Day), won the Palme D’Or at the 51st Cannes Film Festival. Other directors to watch out for are Michael Cacoyannis – director of Zorba the Greek (1962) – Alexis Damianos, Kostas Ferris, Pandelis Voulgaris, Tonia Marketaki and Nikos Panayotopoulos. Cultural events: The Athens Festival (website: www.greekfestival.gr) takes place every summer (June to September). This major international festival was inaugurated in 1955 and combines music, modern and classical theatre, and contemporary and traditional dance. Venues for the festival are the Roman Odeon of Herod Atticus, the open-air theatre on Lykavittós Hill, the Veákio amphitheatre in Piraeus and the amphitheatre at Epidaurus. The Athens Festival box office, Stadiou 4 (inside the arcade) (tel: 210 322 1459), is open Monday-Friday 0900-1600 and Saturday 0900-1430. Unsold tickets are available from 1800 at the Odeon of Herod Atticus box office on the evening of the performance. The Athens International Jazz and Blues Festival takes place in June – tickets are available from the Athens Festival box office. Literary Notes This classical city is most closely revisited through the classical authors. Of particular interest are The Histories (fifth century BC) by Herodotus, The Rise and Fall of Athens (first century) by Plutarch, and History of the Peloponnesian War (fifth century BC) by Thucydides. The Greek myths provide an essential background to the achievements of Classical Athens – the most celebrated sources being the Iliad and the Odyssey (ninth century BC) by Homer, as well as works by Hesiod. Classical drama is at its best on stage but is also available to read in translation. Some of the most important works include the tragedies: Prometheus Bound and the Oresteia (fifth century BC) trilogy by Aeschylus, Antigone, Oedipus Rex and Electra (fifth century BC) by Sophocles, Trojan Women and Iphigeneia in Taurus (fifth century BC) by Euripedes; and the comedies: The Frogs and The Birds (fifth century BC) by Aristophanes. More recent accounts of the city include The Longest Night – Chronicles of a Dead City (1985), a collection of stories by Petros Haris evoking the atmosphere in Athens during World War II. The Noble Prize winner, Odysseus Elytis, died in Athens in 1996. His poems can be read in English in The Collected Poems of Odysseus Elytis. Nightlife Athens has a lively nightlife scene that takes place in the streets as well as in the hundreds of bars, tavernas and clubs throughout the city. Bars open until around 0400 and nightclubs until 0400 or 0600. The legal drinking age in bars and clubs is 18. Prices vary although punters can expect to pay around €5 for a beer or €7 for a whisky. It is not usual to drink wine by the glass while visiting a bar in Greece, although it is always served in restaurants, usually by the half litre. Winter is the best time to enjoy the full range of after-dark entertainment, as many establishments follow the tourists out to the islands during the summer. For an authentic Athenian evening, find a bar or club offering bouzouki or rembétika music. Alternatively, numerous nightclubs and bars cater for European and international tastes. These are to be found mainly in the Syntagma, Thissio, Psirri and Kolonáki areas of central Athens, as well as in the suburbs, such as Kifisia, Faliro, Glyfada, Vouliagméni, Voula and Varkiza. Admission prices vary dramatically from place to place, often increasing at the weekend. Greeks tend to dress informally for a night out. Kathimerini, an English-language insert available with the Herald Tribune, provides information on ‘what’s on’ in Athens. Bars: The most ‘happening’ bar in town has to be Rock’n’Roll, Loukianou 6 (Kolonáki). The rich and beautiful of all ages flock here to enjoy late-night drinking and good music. The central dance floor dominates the place, so it is noisy and crowded, but there are a few tables where it is possible to eat as or just drink. There’s select entry and at weekends its almost impossible to get in if you don’t know the right people. Close by, Mommy, Delphon 4 (Pefkakia), is a glamorous bar-restaurant with a rather quieter, more romantic atmosphere. Guru, Plateia Theatrou 10 (Psirri), behind the central vegetable market, is another extremely popular bar-restaurant. Thai food is served in the eastern-style lounge on the first floor, while the second floor is given over to house and disco music. A ten-minute walk away, Bee, on the corner of Miaouli and Themidos (Psirri), also combines drinking, dining and music, pulling in a mixed gay crowd. For a taste of traditional Greece, visit an ouzerí (also known as ouzédhika and mezedhopolía). These are bars selling ouzo (usually beer and wine as well) accompanied by mezédhes (Greek hors d’oeuvres). A good place to try is Kouklis, Tripódon 14, in Pláka. Casinos: An hour’s drive to the north of Athens, in Loutraki, a spa and resort town at the gateway to the Peloponnese, lies Loutraki Casino, Posseido 48, Loutraki, a glittering modern establishment that claims to be one of the largest casinos in Europe. It is open 24 hours except for Wednesday. The minimum age is 23 years. Evening dress and a valid passport are obligatory. In contrast, on Mount Párnitha, the Parnes Casino operates in old-fashioned style from the Mont Parnes Hotel, 2 Karageorgi Servias. A mountain cable-car carries visitors up to the hotel, day and night. The casino is open daily 1930-0145 (until 0245 on Saturdays) except for Wednesday. Evening dress and a valid passport are required. Clubs: The city’s most exclusive club, frequented by rich and glamorous under-40s, is Privilege, Pireos 130 (Gazi). During summer, the establishment moves out to the beach at Agios Cosmas. Some of Europe’s top DJs come to play at the renowned Plus Soda, Ermou 161 (Thissio). In summer, Plus Soda also transfers to the seaside, at Glyfada. Another chic and trendy club is Venue, L Kifoias 101 (Marousi), where house and techno rule the dancefloor. For a more informal but very colourful night out, try Folie, Eslin 4 (Ambelokipi), where guests of all ages let their hair down to reggae, funk, Latin and ethnic music. Live music: For the best jazz in town, visit Halfnote Jazz Club, Trivonianou 17 (Mets). This sophisticated venue stages contemporary and classic jazz, jazz funk and blues concerts, featuring international musicians. Alternatively, try Blues Hall, Ardittou 44 (close to the Panathenaic Stadium), to hear both Greek and foreign blues artists perform. Rock music enthusiasts might prefer Rodhon, Marni 24 (Omonia). The mood here is informal and fun and the club stages some excellent rock and pop concerts. Many of Greece’s top bouzouki stars play at the highly popular music hall Apollon Palace, Singrou 259 (Nea Smirni). To hear authentic rembetika (blues sung by immigrants from Asia Minor who came to Greece in 1920s), try Boemissa, Solomou 19 (Exarhia). City Statistics Location: Attica, Greece. Country dialling code: 30. The old Athens code of ‘010’ has been replaced with ‘210’, however, ‘210’ must be dialled even within Athens. All numbers throughout the country now have ten digits, which must all be dialled. Population: 3,507,000 (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: Vast majority Greek with small minority of other nationalities. Religion: 97% Greek Orthodox majority; Muslim, Roman Catholic and Jewish minorities. Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two- or three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: 9.5°C (49°F). Average July temp: 27.5°C (81.5°F). Annual rainfall: 376mm (14.5 inches). Special Events The Feast of St Basil, church services, 1 Jan, churches throughout the city Carnival, festivities and celebration, week before Orthodox Lent Feb-Mar, throughout the city Independence Day, 25 Mar, Syntagma Square and throughout the city Labour Day, parades, 1 May, various venues Orthodox Easter, 27 Apr 2003, churches throughout the city Athens International Jazz and Blues Festival, Jun, Lykavittos Theatre Rally Acropolis, Jun, Acropolis Feast of the Holy Spirit and Whit celebrations, 16 Jun 2003, churches throughout the city Athens Festival, Jun-Sep, Herode Atticus Theatre and Lykavittos Theatre in the city centre, Veakio Amphiteheatre in Piraeus and the Epidaurus Amphitheatre International Sailing Regatta, Jul, Athens coast Rockwave Festival, one of the biggest rock festivals in Europe, mid-Jul, Athens coast Daphne Wine Festival, Jul-Aug, Daphne Athens Marathon, late-Oct, from Marathon to the Panathenaic Stadium Óchi Day, parades, 28 Oct, Syntagma Square and throughout the city Christmas Day, 25 Dec, throughout the city Cost of Living On 1 January 2002, the Drachma was replaced by the Euro. One-litre bottle of mineral water: €0.45 33cl bottle of beer: €0.60 Financial Times newspaper: €2.40 36-exposure colour film: €4.50 City-centre bus ticket: €0.45 Adult football ticket: €10-45 Three-course meal with wine/beer: From €30 1 Euro (€1) = £0.68; US$1.07; C$1.62; A$1.80; Dr340.75 100 Greek Drachma (Dr100) = €0.29 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Business Services Business Contacts: Athens Chamber of Commerce & Industry (ACCI) Akademias 7, 106 71 Athens Tel: (01) 360 2411. Fax: (01) 360 7897 or 361 6464. E-mail: info@acci.gr Website: www.acci.gr Hellenic Foreign Trade Board M. Antypa 86-88, 163 46 Ilioupolis, Athens Tel: (01) 998 2100. Fax: (01) 996 9100. E-mail: info@hepo.gr Website: www.hepo.gr British-Hellenic Chamber of Commerce (Greece) Vas. Sophias 25, 106 74 Athens Tel: (01) 721 0361 or 0493. Fax: (01) 721 8751 or 2119. E-mail: info@bhcc.gr Website: www.bhcc.gr Economic and Commercial Department, Embassy of Greece (UK) 1a Holland Park, London W11 3TP Tel: (020) 7727 8860. Fax: (020) 7727 9934. E-mail: uk@dos.gr Website: www.greekembassy.org.uk Greek Chamber of Commerce and Industry (USA) Suite 206, 1100 Long Pond Road, Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: (716) 227 7272. Fax: (716) 227 7275. E-mail: chamberinfo@greecechamber.org Website: www.greecechamber.org Economic and Commercial Department, Greek Consulate (Canada) Suite 1801, 365 Bloor Street East, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3L4 Tel: (416) 515 0135. Fax: (416) 515 0708. E-mail: greekeconcom@aol.com Hellenic-Australian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (Australia) PO Box 7077, St Kilda Road, VIC 3004 Tel: (03) 9311 2011. Fax: (03) 9311 2411. E-mail: information@hacci.com.au Website: www.hacci.com.au Convention and meeting planner Europartners Ltd Syngrou 101, 117 45 Athens Tel: (01) 922 1254 or 921 4335. Fax: (01) 922 1589. E-mail: europart@hol.gr Website: www.europartners.gr Convention and meeting venue Linea Expo Center Syngrou 57, 117 45 Athens Tel: (01) 921 7006 or 923 5999. Fax: (01) 921 8442. E-mail: linealtd@otenet.gr General business services Executive Service Translation Centre Suite 506, Athens Tower Building B, Mesoghion 2-4, 115 27 Athens Tel: (01) 778 3698 or 770 1062. Fax: (01) 779 5509. E-mail: info@executiveservices.gr Website: http://virtual-greece.com/eslbatler Fully equipped offices with secretarial and translation services. Organisational service for conferences and business events. International Business Services 5th Floor, Michalakopoulou 29, 115 28 Athens Tel: (01) 724 5541 or 721 0774. Fax: (01) 724 9508. E-mail: contact@ibs-ltd.gr Website: www.ibs-ltd.gr Fully equipped offices with secretarial and translation services. Organisational service for conferences and business events. Secretarial services Regus Hellas SA Kifissias 90, 151 25 Marousi, Athens Tel: (01) 809 9797. Fax: (01) 809 9700. E-mail: athens1@regus.com.gr Website: www.regus.com Mendor Seizani 19, 142 31 Nea Ionia, Athens Tel/Fax: (01) 271 5855. E-mail: mendor@compulink.gr Translation services Alphabet EPE Kifissias 154, 151 26 Maroussi, Athens Tel: (01) 802 0111 or 0112. Fax: (01) 802 0113. E-mail: contact@alphabet-epe.gr Website: www.alphabet-epe.gr Eurologos – Athens Dirachiou 24, 156 69 Papagou, Athens Tel: (01) 651 0708. Fax: (01) 654 0652. E-mail: mail@eurologos.gr Website: www.eurologos.gr History c.3000BC Evidence of first settlement around the Acropolis 1400BC The Acropolis becomes a royal fortress 620BC Draco formalises the laws of Athens and Attica 594-593BC The birth of democracy under the constitution of Solon 490BC The Battle of Marathon. Athens defeats the Persians 480BC Persian invasion of Athens 479BC Defeat of the Persians at Plataea by Greek force led by the Spartans 461BC Pericles replaces Cimon as the ruler of Athens 461-429BC The Golden Age under Pericles. Construction of the Parthenon and other Classical buildings 431BC Start of the Peloponnesian War against Sparta 430-428BC Plague wipes out a quarter of Athens’ population including Pericles (429BC) 404BC Peloponnesian War with Sparta ends in defeat 338BC Philip II of Macedon conquers Athens and other Greek states 336BC Murder of Philip and succession of his son, Alexander the Great 336-323BC Expansion of the Macedonian Empire under Alexander through the Mediterranean and Middle East as far as India 146BC Roman Empire subjugates Macedonian rulers; Athens is incorporated into the province of Achaia 200BC-AD300 Roman rule in Greece AD50 Paul the Apostle visits Athens to preach AD330 Foundation of the Byzantine Empire by Constantine I as successor to the Roman Empire AD395 Athens captured by Visigoths AD529 Schools of Neo-Platonic philosophy closed by Justinian I, temples reconsecrated as Christian churches 1204 Franks and Venetians capture Constantinople and divide Greece between them 1456-1821 Athens under Ottoman rule from Constantinople 1687 Venetians besiege the Acropolis 1821 Hellenic rebellion against Turkish occupation 1821-29 The Greek War of Independence 1832 Prince Otto of Bavaria is selected by Western powers as king of the modern Greek state 1834 Capital of modern Greece transfers from Náfplio in the Peloponnese to Athens 1896 First modern Olympic Games held in Athens 1917 Greece joins the Allied forces and enters World War I 1920-23 Greece at war with Turkey 1923 End of Greek–Turkish war sees massive influx of Greek refugees from Asia Minor to Athens and Piraeus 1940 General Metaxas refuses Mussolini’s fleet access to Greek ports in a now famous one word rebuttal – ‘Óhi’ (no) 1941 40,000 Athenians die in severe food shortages caused by the German and Italian occupation 1944 Liberation of Greece 1944-49 Greek Civil War 1967 Military coup results in the exile of King Constantine I. Greece ruled by Colonel Papadopoulos 1974 Overthrow of the military junta 1975 Republican constitution inaugurated 1981 Greece joins the European Union 1985 Athens becomes Europe’s first Cultural Capital 1998 Devaluation of the drachma to prepare for European monetary union Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.