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USACity Overview It used to be joked that visitors arriving in New Zealand should turn their watches back 30 years. However, one look at Auckland, with its vibrant waterfront life – not for nothing is it called the ‘City of Sails’ – and its busy Downtown district, and it soon becomes clear that this joke is well past its sell-by date. Auckland may not be New Zealand’s capital – that distinction going to Wellington – but it is the country’s largest city and its major gateway for most travellers. Just over 300km (190 miles) from the northern tip of the North Island, Auckland bestrides a narrow isthmus, the city’s districts weaving their way around bays and harbours, large and small. Around the city are numerous rugged hills, reminders of the eruption from 48 volcanoes that created the isthmus some 50,000 years ago. Fortunately, it was around 1250 that a volcano last erupted. When the first Polynesians arrived here by canoe, some 1000 years ago, they quickly cultivated the fertile land and built villages on the hilltops. The settlements flourished. However, after the arrival of Europeans, in the early 1830s, warfare and disease decimated the Maori population. In 1840, the British bought land in the Auckland area from the local Maori tribe and made it their capital city, Auckland, which it remained until 1865, when Wellington took over. As well as the harbours and fertile land, the city’s maritime climate was appealing. Its situation by the sea means that it never gets too hot in summer or too cold in winter. There may be occasional frosts in wintertime (June to August) but seldom anything too severe, while summer temperatures usually stay in the mid-20s Celsius (upper-70s Fahrenheit), although it can become quite humid. Such a climate naturally leads to a healthy – and hedonistic – outdoor lifestyle. Although exact figures vary, it is said that there are more boats per capita here than in any other city in the world. There are over 500km (310 miles) of walking trails within Greater Auckland, as well as 22 leafy parks. But when the city palls, its inhabitants escape to the offshore Hauraki Gulf Islands or up the coast to one of the country’s most beautiful spots, the Bay of Islands. Boats to the islands leave from the ferry terminal on Auckland’s waterfront, regenerated for the 2000 Americas Cup and now home of the 2002 and 2003 competition. Slightly east of here is Queen Elizabeth Square, and running south from the Square is Queen Street. This is the city’s main thoroughfare, upon which stands the impressive Auckland Town Hall. Queen Street eventually reaches Karangahape Road, which everyone calls K Road. Between K Road and the waterfront, is the heart of Auckland City. To the southeast is the sophisticated Parnell district, with the Auckland Museum and Auckland Domain Park, while to the northwest of the centre is Herne Bay and Ponsonby. These are the hip and happening areas, with bohemian bars and cafés. To support this lifestyle requires a prosperous economy and that is what Auckland is re-experiencing, after a few years in the doldrums. Tourism, the country’s biggest earner, is on the up, especially since the film release of the first part of the Lord of the Rings trilogy, which was filmed in New Zealand – with a knock-on effect for the city’s other sectors, such as business and finance. It may not be ‘boom city’ but Auckland is certainly blossoming. Getting There By Air Auckland Airport (AKL) Tel: (09) 276 0789. E-mail: admin@akl-airport.co.nz Website: www.auckland-airport.co.nz Auckland Airport is located 21km (14 miles) south of central Auckland, in the suburb of Mangere. It is one of the two main international gateways to New Zealand – the other being Christchurch, on the South Island. The airport handles, on average, more than 23,000 passengers per day, travelling on 81 international and 324 domestic flights. There are direct flights to several countries including Canada, Great Britain, Japan and the USA. There is one international terminal and are two domestic terminals. The terminals are linked by a free shuttle bus service. There is also a marked footpath between the terminals. Major airlines: Air New Zealand (tel: (0800) 737 767; website: www.airnz.com) is the national airline. Other major carriers include Aerolinas Argentinas, Air Canada, British Airways, Canadian Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Garuda, Japan Airlines, Korean Air, Lufthansa, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways and United Airlines. Approximate flight times to Auckland: From London is 24 hours; from New York is 21 hours; from Los Angeles is 12 hours; from Toronto is 21 hours and from Sydney is 3 hours. Airport facilities: These include a bank, tourist information centre, Bureau de Change, snack bars, newsagent, duty-free shops, restaurant, courtesy telephones, left-luggage and car hire from Avis, Budget and Hertz, as well as a variety of domestic operators. Business facilities: There is no business centre as such but the Airport Camera Centre (open daily 0700-1900), on the first floor of the International Terminal, has photocopying, courier and faxing services and a post shop. ‘The Boardroom’, on the top floor, can be booked for private meetings and the domestic terminal has conference rooms available (tel: (09) 256 8851, for both). Arrival/departure tax: A departure tax of NZ$25 on all international flights is payable at the airport, although it is often included in the airline ticket price. Transport to the city: There is an Airbus Shuttle (tel: (09) 275 9396) that connects all three terminals with the Downtown Airline Terminal, every 20 minutes (0620-2200). The journey takes approximately 40 minutes and tickets are available from the driver. Private shuttle services into the city are available at the airport, meeting all flights and costing NZ$14–16, while a taxi to the city centre will cost approximately NZ$40, although some companies offer a discount of approximately NZ15. Getting There By Road Driving in New Zealand is easy, inexpensive and – although Auckland is one of the busiest areas, in terms of traffic – by European standards, is still relatively quiet. Nearly all roads are State Highways, designated by ‘SH’ and a number. Small numbers refer to the major routes between destinations – such as SH1 from Auckland to Wellington – while larger numbers indicate smaller roads linking smaller destinations, or recently built roads – such as SH94 from Te Anau to Milford Sound. All other roads, of which there are a few, are known– although not officially – as ‘B’ roads. These are often little more than ribbons of tarmac. A valid national driving licence is all that is required for driving in New Zealand, for up to 12 months. The legal driving age is 18 years. Insurance is not mandatory but is recommended. Traffic drives on the left and most roads are quiet. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08% (0.03% for drivers under 20 years). Speed limits are 100kph (62mph) on open roads, 50kph (31mph) in urban areas and 20kph (12mph) in the vicinity of a stopped school bus. There are ‘Limited Speed Zones’ where the speed limit is often reduced from 100kph to 50kph in adverse conditions. The New Zealand Automobile Association (website: www.nzaa.co.nz) provides information on road conditions (tel: (0900) 33222) and general information (tel: (0800) 500 222). Emergency breakdown service: NZ AA (0800) 500 222 Routes to the city: SH1 north runs parallel to the east coast of North Island to Warkworth and then on to Bay of Islands, Northland Forest Park and Cape Reinga. SH1 south heads toward Hamilton and Wellington, which links with SH5 to Rotorua, SH29 to Taurangia, SH2 to Gisbourne, SH3 to New Plymouth (via the west coast and linking with Raglan or Waitomo), SH5 to Napier and SH4 to Wanganui. Approximate driving times to Auckland: From Rotorua – 2 hours 30 minutes; Bay of Islands – 3 hours; Wellington – 8-9 hours. Coach services: Auckland has good coach links with other main New Zealand towns and cities, as well as the more popular tourist areas. Coaches operate from the Intercity Coach Terminal, at the Sky City Casino, 102 Hobson Street (tel: (09) 366 6400), where there are basic facilities, such as left-luggage, a café and toilets. Coaches also operate from the Northliner Travel Centre, 172 Quay St, opposite the Ferry Building. The biggest coach service provider throughout New Zealand is InterCity (tel: (09) 357 8400), with Newmans (tel: (09) 309 9738) also having a good service. Smaller operators include C Tours (tel: (09) 758 1777) to New Plymouth, Geyserland Express (tel: (09) 357 6616) to Rotorua, The Little Kiwi Bus (tel: (0800) 759 999) to Hamilton and Northliner Express (tel: (09) 307 5873) to the Bay of Islands. Getting There By Rail New Zealand’s rail services are operated by Tranz Scenic (tel: (0800) 802 802; website: www.tranzrailtravel.co.nz/tranzscenic/default.asp). Trains are efficient, reasonably priced but rare, operating more as a tourist service than a business or commuter network. Auckland Station is currently located on Beach Road. However, by the end of 2003, the station will be in the Britomart, a purpose designed, combined train and local bus station incorporating the old post office building on QEII Square, at the harbour end of Queen Street. Rail services: There is a daily early morning service to New Zealand’s capital, Wellington, on the southern tip of North Island, as well as an overnight service from Sunday to Friday. The journey takes approximately 11 hours. Other daily services leave for Rotorua and Tauranga. Transport to the city: Auckland Station is located approximately one kilometre (half a mile) east of the city centre. The station is located on public bus routes and taxis are also available. Getting Around Public Transport Stagecoach Auckland (tel: (0800) 103 080) operates a good bus network around Auckland, most of which leave from the Downtown Bus Centre, Commerce Street, although this will be changing by the end of 2003 (see Getting There By Rail). Buses operate Monday-Thursday 0600-2200 and Friday-Sunday 0700-2300. A flat fare in the city centre costs NZ$1.20 and NZ$1.20 thereafter, for each time passed through another zone. A ticket for ‘The Link’, a city centre loop-route bus, costs just NZ$1.20. A one-day bus pass is available for NZ$8. Tickets are available for purchase upon boarding, at stations and at visitor centres. There is a free Auckland Busabout Guide available from newsagents and visitor centres, which lists routes and fares. Auckland also has a small metro service called the Tranz Metro (tel: (0800) 802 802; website: www.tranzmetro.co.nz), with two main lines. One runs west to Waitakere and the other south to Papakura, 0600-1900 and 0545-1925 respectively. The fare from the city centre to the end of each line is approximately NZ$5-10. A Day Rover pass costs A$10 and allows for unlimited travel after 0900 weekdays and all day Saturday. A ten-trip carnet and a monthly pass are also available for A$10-64 and A$96-199 respectively. All tickets and passes are available for purchase on the train – exact change is recommended. Ferries, operated by Fullers (tel: (09) 367 9111), link the ferry terminal on Quay Street with some of the further suburbs, such as Devonport, Bayswater, Birkenhead and Stanley Bay. There are also regular services to the Hauraki Gulf islands and the Coromandel Peninsula. Ferries operate Monday-Saturday approximately 0600-2300 and Sunday 0700-2200. Ferry fares vary and fluctuate with the price of oil – the main Auckland Devonport Ferry currently costs NZ$8. Tickets are available for purchase on board, at the terminals and in visitor centres. Auckland’s Rideline (tel: (09) 366 6400; website: www.rideline.co.nz) provides further information on all public transport services. However, the main service that visitors will find useful is the Explorer Bus (see Tours of the City), which links up the major tourist attractions. The Auckland Pass costs NZ$8 and gives all day unlimited travel on the bus, ferry and link bus networks and is available from bus drivers and at ferry offices. A similar three-day pass also exists for just NZ$18. Taxis There are several private taxi companies in Auckland, with ranks situated around the city. Taxis can also be hailed in the street, although booking by telephone is the usual option. One of the biggest companies is the Auckland Co-operative Taxi Society (tel: (09) 300 3000). Taxis are metered, with a minimum charge of NZ$3. Tipping is not expected. Limousines Limousines are not common in laid-back Auckland. The Auckland Co-operative Taxi Society (tel: (09) 300 3000) does offer business-class cars for hire from NZ$65 per hour. More upmarket but still not really stretch limos, Limousine Connection Services (tel: (09) 636 9089; website: www.toursandlimos.co.nz) provides cars with chauffeurs. Rates start from NZ$150 per hour. Driving in the City Auckland is as big and busy as any other major city but driving is not the stressful experience it can be elsewhere. Drivers in New Zealand are much more courteous out in the country but still fairly tolerant in the city itself. A car is useful, because of the sprawling nature of the city and roads are in good condition and mostly well signposted. However, the Downtown area gets very congested, especially in the morning and evening rush hours and, in particular, on a Friday afternoon. Parking Downtown can also be a problem. Central 24-hour car parks include Albert Street (to the west of Queen Street and close to the waterfront), Customs Street West and Beresford Street, near Karangahape (K) Road. Metered parking is generally NZ$1-2 per hour and approximately NZ$1-3 per hour in a secure car park. Car Hire All the major international car hire companies have offices in Auckland, as well as several domestic companies. Drivers must be over 21 years of age – some companies add on a hefty surcharge if the driver is less than 25 years. A valid national or international drivers licence is required – in some cases, if the licence has been held for less than three-five years, an extra insurance excess may apply. Fully comprehensive insurance is not compulsory but is very advisable, as many local drivers in rural areas take a very relaxed attitude to driving regulations and New Zealand society is more litigious than many others. This is often included as part of the car hire deal. The main companies include Ace Tourist Rentals (tel: (09) 303 3112; website: www.acerentalcars.co.nz), A2B (tel: (0800) 616 333; website: www.a2brentals.co.nz), Avis (tel: (09) 526 2800; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (0800) 652 227; website: www.budget.co.nz), Hertz (tel: (0800) 654 321; website: www.hertz.com) and Maui (tel: (0800) 737 070; website: www.maui-rentals.com), who only rent camper-vans. In the high season, rates start at approximately NZ$60 per day, for a short-term hire. Bicycle & Scooter Hire Cycling is popular in New Zealand and Auckland is a pleasant city in which to cycle – away from the centre and the rush-hour periods. A signposted cycle route runs for 50km (31 miles) along the waterfront and around the city. There are several bicycle hire companies, including Adventure Cycles, 1 Fort Lane (tel: (09) 309 5566), several branches of Hedgehog Bikes (tel: (09) 489 6559) and Pack and Pedal (tel: (09) 522 2161). Rates start at approximately NZ$25 per day. Auckland has many motorcycle hire companies, with the minimum size of bike usually being 250cc, which requires a full motorcycle licence. For smaller scooters and mopeds, an ordinary car driving licence is all that is required. Scooter hire starts at about NZ$30 per day, while motorbikes cost around NZ$100 per day. Providers include Bike Adventure New Zealand (tel: (0800) 498 600), New Zealand Motorcycle Rentals (tel: (09) 377 2005) and Te Waipounamu Motorcycle Tours (tel: (09)489 9242). Business Business Profile The New Zealand economy is predominantly based on exporting wool, dairy products, wood, minerals, seafood and meat. It is also largely dependent with the influx of tourists. However, there is a growing reliance on high tech industries and expertise, fashion, TV and film production, back-drop provision and special effects. Auckland is a city with more of a business and services-oriented economy. The business directory shows familiar corporate names, such as IBM, 3M, Microsoft, Cisco, Merrill Lynch, KPMG, Citibank and Price Waterhouse. The city’s mainstays are business and financial services, manufacturing, transport, communications and the trade and hospitality industries. These last two reflect the importance of tourism to the country as a whole, and to its biggest city. Auckland also contains the country’s biggest port, handling 50% of container traffic. Auckland is a sprawling city with no specific Central Business District. However, businesses are located around Queen Street, from Cook Street as far down as the waterfront. Tourism is New Zealand’s single biggest revenue earner, currently estimated to be worth well in excess of four and a half billion New Zealand Dollars. This figure constantly increases, because of the country’s high profile in the world’s eye, as the home of Middle Earth, or more precisely the land where the Lord of the Rings trilogy was filmed, which greatly benefits Auckland, as does being host to the Americas Cup for 2002 and 2003. The city’s GDP is over 20 million New Zealand Dollars per annum and, thanks to current low interest and exchange rates, it is estimated that this will increase at a steady rate of about 4% per annum for the next three years. This is 1% higher than the growth anticipated for the country as a whole, which reflects the constant population drift towards Auckland. This drift does, however, contribute to the city’s unemployment rate of 6.9%, which is relatively high when compared to the nation-wide percentage of 6.1%. The Auckland region contains roughly 30% of New Zealand’s population and that population, on average, is younger, more highly paid and better educated than the general population. The last major census in 1996 showed, for example, that 19% of Auckland’s residents had a university degree, exactly twice the national average, although this is due in no small part to the number of people who move to Auckland in search of jobs after they have finished tertiary education. Asian visitors traditionally have accounted for almost one-fifth of New Zealand’s tourists, so the 30% drop in visitor numbers at the start of 1999 was attributed to the Asian financial crisis, although Asian visitors are once again on the increase. Economic recovery, following the impact of this crisis, has naturally been welcomed – tourism arrivals at Auckland airport rose by 8.7% over 1999 and retail spending rose by 4.2% for the year ending 30 September 1999. However, this is fairly small beer by comparison with the projections for spending increases as a result of a massive rise in visitor numbers, due to the Lord of the Rings trilogy – the remaining two films are to be released at Christmas of 2002 and 2003 – and the perception of New Zealand as the worlds safest yet most spectacular tourism destination. Business Etiquette Conducting business in Auckland is no different from the procedure in any other major Western city. There are no cultural pitfalls to watch out for and the only noticeable difference lies with the nature of the country’s people. They are notably friendlier, more informal and more relaxed. Although ties and jackets are worn, jackets may soon be discarded and shirtsleeves rolled up. A more informal dress code also exists in restaurants and bars, although the smartest restaurants may still expect a jacket and tie to be worn. Business hours are generally 0900-1700 and punctuality is appreciated but no one will be offended if the visitor is a little late, especially at times when the traffic is busy. As dinner is seen as a time for socialising and not business, meetings mainly take place over lunch. Invitations to dine out or to visit someone’s home are far more readily issued than in many other countries and are issued genuinely, not merely as a gesture. The native host will expect to pay for a meal or a round of drinks but guests can step in and pay their turn without creating arguments or offence. Friendliness not formality is the Auckland watchword. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Despite Auckland’s urban sprawl, the major tourist sites are situated around the city centre, while those that are further afield can be reached by public transport, the Explorer Bus, which links many of the attractions, or a hire car. The city centre is easily explored on foot, starting with the waterfront, which epitomises the lively feel of the ‘City of Sails’. Here too can be found the Downtown Tourist Centre, some useful transport stops, such as the Stagecoach Bus Terminal (soon to be relocated to QEII Square) and the Ferry Terminal and Department of Conservation Office, the National Maritime Museum and the America’s Cup Village. The city’s main street, Queen Street, and the roads and malls that flank it, give a sense of the shopping options, including the two-storey Queens Arcade. Queen Street continues past the Town Hall and close by Albert Park, although it is worth remembering that there are many specialised shopping options in the various suburbs that surround the centre, which form self-contained village-like satellites. Albert Park is one of 22 parks in the city and is home to the more ornate half of the Auckland City Art Gallery, the Heritage Gallery – the other half, the New Gallery, is located on the other side of Wellesely Street – and the Bruce Wilkinson Collection, a charming small display of ornate clocks and figures. Southeast of the centre is the huge 81-hectare (202-acre) Auckland Domain, crowned by the city’s main ‘must-see’ site, the Auckland Museum – packed with Maori and Pacific Island artefacts. From the museum, an extra loop on the Explorer Bus circuit takes visitors further out to Mt Eden, Auckland Zoo and the Museum of Transport, Technology and Social History (MOTAT). Venturing further afield requires a car, taxis or more public transport. East of the city are golf courses, the Ellerslie Race Course, attractions like Howick Historical Village, the Botanic Gardens and the Rainbow’s End adventure theme park. Heading west brings more golf courses, orchards, vineyards and a sense of why the Auckland people love their city so much – inside it is lively and outside simply lovely. Tourist Information Auckland Visitor Centre 287 Queen Street Tel: (09) 979 2333. Fax: (09) 970 2334. E-mail: nzvc@aucklandnz.com Website: www.aucklandnz.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat and Sun 0900-1800. Passes Although there are transport passes for tourists (see Public Transport), there are no tourist passes allowing access or discounts to attractions, currently available in Auckland. Key Attractions Auckland Domain and Auckland Museum Created in 1845, Auckland Domain is the city’s oldest, largest and most attractive park, with gardens and statues, pathways and ponds, a winter garden with cool and tropical houses, and the Fernz Fernery, with over 100 types of fern. The 81-hectare (202-acre) Domain is situated on an extinct volcano, known as pukekawa or ‘hill of bitter memories’. Within the domain is the Auckland Museum, the city’s most visited attraction, combining its Greco-Roman style architecture with a contemporary take on the displays. The ground floor is devoted to ‘The People’, the middle to ‘The Place’ and the top to ‘New Zealand at War’, while a small area on the middle floor is given over to the Children’s Discovery Centre. The displays tend not to be confined to Victorian-style glass cases but include various interactive and audiovisual components. The museum also houses one of New Zealand’s most important collection of Maori and South Pacific artefacts and a Manaia cultural performance, heralded by a conch blast throughout the museum at 1100 and 1330. Auckland Domain Tel: (09) 303 1530 (domain) or 306 7067 (museum). Fax: (09) 379 9956 (museum). Website: www.akmuseum.co.nz Transport: Public, Link or Explorer buses. Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk (domain); daily 1000-1700 (museum). Admission: Free (domain); NZ$5 suggested donation, valid for repeated entry (museum); NZ$15 (cultural performance). Auckland City Art Gallery The city’s main art gallery has the country’s largest collections of both native and international art. The Heritage Gallery, which was opened in 1888, contains the bulk of the collection, with the New Gallery, opened across the street in 1995, concentrating on contemporary art, with revolving exhibitions. In the Heritage Gallery, international artists include Breughel and Millais, with Reynolds and Gainsborough providing a link back to colonial days. Some of the most memorable images are those by Gottfried Lindauer and Charles F Goldie, who depict passive portraits of Maori with moko (facial tattoos). A free guided tour is available daily at 1400 and there is a programme of regular talks. Heritage Gallery Corner of Wellesley Street and Kitchener Street Tel: (09) 309 7693 or 0831 E-mail: gallery@akcity.govt.nz Website: www.akcity.govt.nz/attractions/artgallery Transport: Public, Link and Explorer buses. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission: Free. New Gallery Corner of Wellesley and Lorne Streets Tel: 307 4540 or 309 0831. E-mail: gallery@akcity.govt.nz Website: www.akcity.govt.nz/attractions/artgallery Transport: Public, Link and Explorer buses. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission: NZ$4. New Zealand National Maritime Museum In the heart of the Downtown waterfront, this museum pays homage to the debt an island nation owes to its maritime history. It covers almost a millennium of history – from the arrival of Maori and then European settlers, to the 2000 Americas Cup. Displays also deal with navigation skills, whaling, sealing and other fishing activities, the first freezer ships to export farm produce (sheep and dairy products) to Europe, and the invention of the jet boat. Visitors can see historical boats, make their own model boats and take a trip out into Auckland Harbour. Eastern Viaduct, corner of Quay and Hobson Streets Tel: (09) 373 0800. Fax: (09) 377 6000. E-mail: mmuseum@wave.co.nz Website: www.nzmaritime.org Transport: Satellite Bus from Auckland Museum. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (Nov-Apr); daily 0900-1700 (Apr-Oct). Admission: NZ$12. Museum of Transport, Technology and Social History (MOTAT) Commonly known as MOTAT – from the days before ‘and Social History’ was added to the name – this is the country’s largest transport collection. It has a working tramway that links its two sections, the main museum and the Sir Keith Park Memorial Site. The latter is the collection of aircraft, including vintage aircraft from the two World Wars and a replica of the Richard Pearse plane – the first successful powered aircraft, long before the Wright brothers. The main museum has displays on all other modes of transport, a reproduction Victorian village and the Science Centre, with interactive exhibits on technology and communications. Great North Road, Western Springs Tel: (09) 846 7020. Website: www.akcity.govt.nz/motat Transport: Yellow Bus 45 and the Link bus. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission: NZ$10; NZ$3 (tramway). Howick Historical Village In 1840, Auckland only had 1500 inhabitants. This living museum deals with the dramatic and turbulent events of the next 50 years, when the bulk of the settlers arrived from Britain, Ireland and Australia and Maori were forcibly removed from their land. The 33 period buildings have been set in a landscape of reproduction gardens, streets and even a village pond. Staff dress in period costume and on the third Sunday of each month, there are special displays relating to different aspects of this period in the city’s past. Bells Road, Lloyd Elsmore Park, Pakuranga Tel: (09) 576 9506. Fax: (09) 576 9708. E-mail: fencible@ihug.co.nz Website: www.fencible.org.nz Transport: Bus to Howick; public buses, alight opposite Lloyd Elsmore Park. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission: NZ$9. Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter and Underwater World Kelly Tarlton was a local diver who designed this centre, which was opened in 1985, so that non-divers could experience the underwater world that he found so fascinating. The perspex walk-through tunnels of Underwater World were the first to give visitors the illusion of walking underwater, for close encounters with sharks, rays and other creatures of the deep. The additional Antarctic Encounter includes a reconstruction of the hut in which Captain Scott and his expedition perished, modern-day studies of life on Earth’s frozen continent and a Disney-like ride on the Snow Cat through artificial icebergs and snow drifts. 23 Tamaki Drive, Orakei Tel: (09) 528 0603. Fax: (09) 375 4732. E-mail: ktinfo@kellytarltons.co.nz Website: www.kellytarltons.co.nz Transport: Explorer Bus and public buses. Opening hours: Daily 0900-2100 (Nov-Mar); daily 0900-1800 (Apr-Oct). Admission: NZ$24. Auckland Zoo Almost 1000 creatures from around the world are housed at this forward-looking zoo, which tries to place the animals in surroundings that recreate their natural environment. New Zealand’s native species are well represented, in particular the hard-to-see national bird, the kiwi, in a nocturnal enclosure, as well as the Tuatara – the most famous national lizard-cum-dinosaur. There is also a large walk-through aviary. The rainforest is such a popular feature that it even has its own website. Here monkeys and apes, parrots, spiders and other rainforest creatures can be seen in their natural habitat. Pridelands is an area that is home to the animals of Africa, including lions, rhinos and giraffes, while Hippo River allows very close-up views of hippopotami. Guided tours are available and there is an informative Visitor Centre. Motions Road, Western Springs Tel: (09) 360 3800 or 3819. Website: www.zoorainforest.co.nz Transport: Satellite Bus from Auckland Museum; public buses and tram from MOTAT. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1730. Admission: NZ$13. Skytower New Zealand’s tallest building stands 328m (1076ft) high, in the centre of Auckland. A lift service takes 40 seconds to whizz visitors to the first observation platforms. From here, the views are breathtaking enough but even more so from very top level, from where visitors can look out over the harbour as well as the city. The tower is one part of the Sky City complex – a casino with cafés, bars and a restaurant. Visitors should note that anyone spending a minimum amount dining here (currently NZ$25.50) receives a free pass to the very top of the tower. It is possible for visitors to climb even higher, to the crows nest, a further 50m (164ft) up, costing NZ$95, as part of the Vertigo experience, which involves wannabe climbers being put through a simulator to make sure they are up for it. Alternatively, for NZ$195 it is possible to attempt the world’s longest tower-based jump, where a harness and attached wire allow for a 25-second, arrested free-fall, eye-popping descent. Sky City, corner of Federal and Victoria Streets Tel: (09) 912 6400. Transport: Explorer, public and link buses. Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 0830-2300; Fri-Sat 0830-2400. Admission: NZ$15 to observation platforms, plus NZ$3 to the top. Further Distractions Stardome Observatory This large site is operated by the Auckland Observatory and Planetarium Trust, to give the public an insight into what the heavens are all about. The planetarium and extensions were built in 1996, at a cost of three million New Zealand Dollars, making for a high-tech modern attraction. Displays include New Zealand’s first known meteorite, a piece of a meteorite that struck Arizona and model rockets. The planetarium shows 45-minute multimedia features, including what it is like to be an astronaut and the story of a young Polynesian learning the art of navigating by the stars to steer his canoe to New Zealand. Night sky and weather permitting, there is also 30-minutes of telescope gazing, during which visitors might catch a glimpse of Jupiter or Saturn’s rings. One Tree Hill Domain, off Manukau Road, Royal Oak Tel: (09) 624 1246 or 625 6945. Fax: (09) 625 2394. E-mail: info@stardome.org.nz Website: www.stardome.org.nz Transport: Buses 302, 305 or 312. Opening hours: Shows take place Tues-Sat 1900 and 2000. Admission: NZ$10 plus NZ$3 for a Stardome show. Rainbow’s End New Zealand’s largest theme park has over 20 major rides and attractions, including the country’s only double-corkscrew rollercoaster, dodgems, bumper boats, a pirate ship, an interactive games arcade and rides for small children. Corner of Great South Road and Wiri Station Road Tel: (09) 262 2030. Fax: (09) 262 1958. E-mail: info@rainbowsend.co.nz Website: www.rainbowsend.co.nz Transport: Bus to Manukau City Shopping Centre (being renamed Westfield Shopping Town). Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission: NZ$35; NZ$25 (children). Auckland Botanic Gardens These beautiful gardens were eight years in the making, before opening to the public in 1982. They cover 64 hectares (160 acres) and contain more than 10,000 individual plants, along with a lake, a nature trail, a library and an attractive outdoor café. Plants are well labelled for the enthusiast and pathways clearly signposted for visitors who only wish to walk in pleasant surroundings. The Auckland Botanic Gardens are now also home of the Ellerslie Flower Show. 102 Hill Road, Manurewa Tel: (09) 303 1530 (Parks line) or 267 1457 (Visitor Centre). Fax: (09) 266 3698. Transport: Buses to Drury, Papakura or Pukehohe. Opening hours: Daily 0800-dusk (gardens); Mon-Fri 0900-1600, Sat and Sun 1000-1600 (Visitor Centre). Admission: Free. Eden Gardens A few minutes from Downtown Auckland, lies the green oasis of Eden Gardens. The 2.25-hectare (5.5-acre) garden on the volcanic slopes of Mt Eden – the highest point in the area and extremely popular with tour buses – was once a quarry, until, in 1965, a group of dedicated volunteers began to transform it into what is now a national showcase garden. It has the largest collection of camellias in the Southern Hemisphere, as well as large numbers of rhododendrons and azaleas in particular. Plants from around the world give year-round colour but it is also a good place to see a large number of native plants too. The landscaped gardens have some statues and a 13.5m (45ft) waterfall. 24 Omana Avenue, Epsom Tel: (09) 638 8395. Fax: (09) 638 7685. E-mail: eden@edengarden.co.nz Website: www.edengarden.co.nz Transport: Bus 274 or 275. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1630. Admission: NZ$5. Auckland Bridge Climb The most recent adventure activity in the city involves getting kitted out in overalls and a harness and then walking across the upper girders of the Auckland Bridge, some 65km (40 miles) above the harbour, with the traffic rushing along on the road below. The views are spectacular, even at night, although this is not for the faint hearted. 70 Nelson Street Tel: (0800) 000 808. Fax: (09) 625 0445. Website: www.aucklandbridgeclimb.co.nz Transport: Public, Link and Explorer buses. Opening hours: Day climbs Mon-Thurs 1000-1500; Fri-Sat 1000-1800; night climbs Sat 1800 (Apr-Sep), 1940 (Oct-Mar). Admission: NZ$125 (Mon-Fri), NZ$135 (Sat-Sun). Tours of the City Walking Tours The Auckland Visitor Centre (tel: (09) 979 2333) provides leaflets giving details of the many marked trails around the city. These include heritage walks that visit historic buildings in the city’s various suburbs, as well as nature walks near the city and others way out in the back-blocks (more remote areas). Guided walking tours of the nearby Waitakere Ranges and Rangitoto Island in the Hauraki Gulf are available from The New Zealand Walking Company (tel: (09) 590 0087; website: www.nzwalkingcompany.com). Tours cost A$385 and A$698 for a two-day (three-night) taster and a four-day (six-night) explorer tour (including accommodation, lunch, guide and transfers). Walkers with a nose for New Zealand wildlife in the raw will enjoy Tiritiri Matangi Island, some 30km (19 miles) north, a re-stocked and re-forested sanctuary for many rare species of native bird. A Fullers Ferry (tel: (09) 367 9111) to the island from the Ferry Building costs NZ$45 (day return). Once there, the Department of Conservation (or DOC) guides (tel: (09) 379 6476; fax: (09) 379 3609; e-mail: aucklandvc@doc.govt.nz; website: www.doc.govt.nz), on the beach, impart bush and bird lore for NZ$5 an hour. Bus Tours The United Airlines Explorer Bus (tel: (0800) 439 756) links many of the visitor attractions in central Auckland. A day pass costs NZ$25. It leaves from the ferry terminal, hourly (1000-1600). At the Auckland Museum, there is an additional summer satellite link that takes passengers on to more outlying attractions, including the Auckland Zoo and the Auckland Art Gallery. Several companies offer city tours, which last half a day and cost around NZ$50, including hotel pick-up and drop-off. Companies include Claud 9 Tours (tel: (09) 818 2562), Great Sights (tel: (0800) 744 487) and Scenic Pacific Tours (tel: (09) 634 2266). Auckland Adventures (tel: (09) 379 4545) has half-day tours that include sights, wineries and wildlife, for NZ$60, as well as an all-day Wilderness Adventure, costing NZ$89, which includes more of the same. Boat Tours Tours of Auckland harbour are available through Fullers (tel: (09) 367 9111). The most popular tours are the 90-minute to two-hour ‘Coffee Cruises’, costing NZ$30, departing 1030 and 1330. Most call in at Devonport and sail across to Rangitoto Island in the Hauraki Gulf, while some also visit Kelly Tarlton’s. For the more romantic tourist, there are NZL (tel: (0800) 724 569) sailing cruises on a racing yacht, costing NZ$75 and a 45-minute Pride of Auckland (tel: (09) 373 4557) cruise, costing NZ$75 and NZ$45 respectively. Other Tours An Auckland Adventures (tel: (09) 379 4545) mountain bike tour costs NZ$89 and follows a similar route to the walking tours (see above) but requires a bit more effort. Excursions For a Half Day Hauraki Gulf Islands: The Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park (tel: (09) 379 6476; fax: (09) 379 3609; e-mail: aucklandvc@doc.govt.nz; website: www.doc.govt.nz) contains 47 islands, some just a few minutes’ sail away from Auckland. Not all can be visited, as some are nature reserves with no access to the general public, although others are devoted to human pleasures, with all the usual holiday facilities. The volcanic island of Rangitoto is one of the most popular islands and is the largest volcanic cone in Auckland. There are several ferries per day from Auckland’s ferry building and the trip takes 30 minutes. Details are available from Fullers Cruise Centre (tel: (09) 367 9111). For a Whole Day Auckland vineyards: New Zealand makes some of the best wine in the world, especially sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir. The best-known vineyards are further south, such as in Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough, although Auckland has several good vineyards to the west of the city, notably in the Henderson and Kumeu areas. Several tour companies organise day trips, which normally include visits to at least four vineyards and lunch at one of them. Cost is in the region of NZ$100 per half day, depending on the number of people – some tours require a minimum number of passengers. Companies include Auckland Adventures (tel: (09) 379 4545), Bush and Beach (tel: (09) 478 2882), Waitakere Scenic Tours (tel: (09) 817 4547) and, best of all, Fine Wine Tours (tel: (09)849 4519). Hotels The most important thing for visitors to remember about hotels in New Zealand is that, being in the Southern Hemisphere, the seasons are reversed. It is therefore advisable to book ahead during the Christmas period, as this is the main summer and school holiday season. Cheaper room rates may be available on the day, although some hotels are likely to be full. The prices quoted below are the starting prices for double rooms. Prices include GST (Goods and Services Tax), currently standing at 12.5%, and exclude breakfast, unless otherwise stated. Business Barrycourt Suites, Hotel and Conference Centre This Best Western Hotel is a large white block house of a building with bright blue balconies and is situated in 1.2 hectares (three acres) of glorious greenery and trees, providing the ideal setting in which to work and play. There are 67 suites with a sunny aspect, 40 well-equipped rooms and seven function rooms at guests’ disposal, as well as free parking and splendid views of the Waitemata Harbour and the city. Within the conference rooms is a 440cm (170-inch) screen for video and other visual presentations, conference telephones, most forms of presentation technology, pure power points for computers, function bars and catering staff to deal with any requests. 10-20 Gladstone Road, Parnell Tel: (09) 303 3789. Fax: (09) 377 3309. E-mail: barrycourt@xtra.co.nz Website: www.barrycourt.co.nz Price: From NZ$120-324. Carlton Hotel This central, architecturally spectacular 12-storey hotel has a glass-walled atrium that extends to its full height and 455 rooms ranging from royal through executive to studio suites, as well as large well-appointed, air-conditioned standard rooms with floor to ceiling windows and great views. Along with a dedicated business centre, complete with secretarial support, the hotel also contains five meeting rooms and one of the largest capacity ballrooms in the city, all just 25km (16 miles) from the airport. Other valuable facilities are safe deposit boxes, faxes in all rooms, excellent security, catering facilities, a choice of two excellent restaurants – one fusion and one Japanese – and two comfortable and relaxing bars. Corner of Mayoral Drive and Vincent Street Tel: (09) 366 3000. Fax: (09) 366 0121. E-mail: res@carlton-auckland.co.nz Website: www.carlton-auckland.co.nz Price: From NZ$340-2015. First Imperial Auckland This high-class hotel of 60 rooms – including three that are specifically designed for disabled guests – is situated in the centre of Auckland and just a five-minute walk from the main shopping streets and waterfront. The tall redbrick, apartment-house-style block has balconies and contains an excellent variety of modern, air-conditioned accommodation in the form of standard hotel rooms, executive studios and executive two-bedroom apartments. Each room has IDD telephones, PC connectors and modem points. The hotel also contains one large and one smaller conference facility with video and presentation equipment hire and secretarial support. 131-139 Hobson Street Tel: (09) 357 6770. Fax: (09) 357 6793. E-mail: res@firstimperial.co.nz Website: www.firstimperial.co.nz Price: From NZ$125-210. Hyatt Regency Auckland This unmistakable, tall broad and handsome modern building in central Auckland is just a five-minute walk from the Central Business District and 25km (16 miles) from the airport. The 274 rooms on offer may not match the presidential suite but all are air-conditioned and have IDD telephones, Internet access via infrared keyboards, voice-mail and in-room safes. There is also a business centre with equipment hire, secretarial services, courier delivery, translators, an airport limousine and a ballroom, as well as eight additional conference rooms with full staff back-up. In addition, the hotel boasts two restaurants, a fitness centre and jogging track, with panoramic views of the harbour and outlying city. Corner of Princess Street and Waterloo Quadrant Tel: (09) 355 1234. Fax: (09) 302 3269. E-mail: auckland@hyatt.co.nz Website: www.hyatt.co.nz Price: From NZ$180. Luxury The Heritage Auckland Auckland’s most interesting international-class luxury hotel was originally the city’s most historic and spectacular department store, Farmers. The landmark building has an iconic reputation and is a wonderful example of Southern Hemisphere Art Deco styling. The Heritage has two separate accommodation wings, made up of 467 rooms and suites, a tennis court, two swimming pools (one roof-top), a health club, a business centre, spa pools, saunas, gyms, restaurants, café bars, lobby bars, a glass atrium and, best of all, a grand tea room with fantastic views of the harbour and the America’s Cup Village. Quite simply, this hotel is style and luxury personified. 35 Hobson Street Tel: (09) 379 8553. Fax: (09) 379 8554. E-mail: res.herritageakl@dynasty.co.nz Website: www.dynasty.co.nz Price: From NZ$179-499. Sky City Hotel Part of Auckland’s most famous and most recent landmark, the Skytower, this massive and lavish hotel in the centre of the city has 344 rooms, various restaurants and bars, conference and business facilities, a roof-top pool, gym, saunas and casino, as well as stunning harbour and city views. The best of the vistas are seen from the circular viewing gallery at the top of the space-needle-like tower. All the rooms, from premier suites to standard luxury, are tastefully decorated in the style and to the standard of world-class luxury hotels the globe over, while the service is efficient, friendly and respectful. Corner of Victoria Street and Hobson Street Tel: (09) 363 6000. Fax: (09) 363 6032. E-mail: reservations@skycity.co.nz Website: www.skycity.co.nz Price: From NZ$290-1200. Moderate Hotel DeBrett Only minutes from the city centre, DeBrett is the place to sample the joys of an Art Deco hotel, at a fraction of the price of The Heritage (see Luxury). The corner-block building leans out over the pavement to provide covered sidewalks and shows its history in the decorations on the façade. This interesting building, which crouches in the middle of the fashion and café districts, was constructed on the site of one of Auckland’s first hotels and, despite showing its age a little at the edges, contains some comfortable and airy double rooms that offer good value for the tourist. 2 High Street Tel: (09) 377 2389. Fax: (09) 377 2391. E-mail: debrett@acb.co.nz Website: www.acb.co.nz/debrett Price: From NZ$80-110, including breakfast. Kiwi International Hotel This modest albeit perfectly adequate hotel is located in the middle of the city, only a 25-minute drive from the airport. Kiwi International Hotel contains a bar and restaurant, laundry, 24-hour reception, off-street parking, conference facilities and 120 comfortable and functional rooms with their own en-suite facilities. Although the decor is rather characterless and the interior gives the impression of an ageing warren, there is sufficient compensation in the number and quality of the facilities on offer, the eagerness of the staff, the variety of accommodation available and the surprisingly low daily, or long-term, rates. 411 Queen Street Tel: (09) 379 6487. Fax: (09) 379 6496. E-mail: kiwihotel@xtra.co.nz Website: www.kiwihotel.co.nz Price: From NZ$100-130, including breakfast. Other Recommendations Peace & Plenty Inn Without exaggeration, this is one of the finest bed and breakfasts in the entire country, with sumptuous, restored kauri-timber floors that feel like silk beneath bare feet, leading to exquisite en-suite rooms filled with fresh flowers, antique furniture and sherry or port decanters. There is a delightful verandah for breakfast – weather permitting – and the meal itself is an event of major proportions and large, healthy and hearty portions. It is served by an ultra-friendly couple, who offer sailing trips around the bay on their boat. 6 Flagstaff Terrace Tel: (09) 445 2925. Fax: (09) 445 2901. E-mail: peaceandplenty@xtra.com Website: www.peaceandplenty.co.nz Price: From NZ$200, including breakfast. St Georges Bay Lodge Undoubtedly one of the best types of accommodation in all of New Zealand is the bed & breakfast. In this case, St George’s Bay Lodge is situated in a beautiful Victorian villa in the airy and quiet suburb of Parnell, just a short ferry ride from the city centre. The white-board villa was built in the 1890s and boasts the original sash windows, turned verandah posts – supporting verdant green climbing plants – and a conservatory leading out onto a wooden balcony that overlooks Auckland’s city centre from across the bay. The house is full of native timber furniture and original Kiwi artworks. There are three en-suite rooms of glorious comfort and elegance and the breakfasts, full English or continental, are to die for. 43 St Georges Bay Road, Parnell Tel: (09) 303 1050. Fax: (09) 303 0155. E-mail: enquiry@stgeorge.co.nz Website: www.stgeorge.co.nz Price: From NZ$165-205, including breakfast. Restaurants We have selected 25 restaurants, which we have divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. Many of Auckland’s restaurants operate as cafés, bars, music venues and nightclubs, as well as serving food. They do not generally have a pre-book service, although when they do, they rarely book far in advance and do not readily give out telephone or fax numbers, or e-mail or website addresses. GST (Goods and Services Tax) will be mentioned on the menu, indicating whether it is included or not. In the vast majority of cases it will be included as a percentage of the total bill, currently 12.5%. Tipping is rarely included in the bill and until recently was not expected, in fact it was even frowned upon. Globalisation has, however, led to a more ‘American’ attitude and it is now advisable to tip 10-15% – but only if the service is good. The prices quoted below are for a three-course meal and for a bottle of house wine or equivalent. Gastronomic Antoine’s Restaurant Despite its conservative tone and decor, this is a favourite among Auckland’s gastronomes and widely held to be one of the best French restaurants in the country, situated just ten minutes from the city centre. Particularly high on the must-try-list are the wonderful salmon dishes, tripe dishes and duckling, all from fresh New Zealand produce but with Gaelic flare. The menu changes weekly. 333 Parnell Road, Parnell Tel: (09) 379 8756. Fax: (09) 524 0684. E-mail: info@antoines.co.nz Website: www.antoinesrestaurant.co.nz Price: NZ$80. Wine: NZ$30. GPK Another delicious fusion house combining Italian pizza bases (and sometimes toppings) with Pacific rim toppings, such as Thai green curry or octopus, which are then all finished off in large wood-fired ovens. The surroundings are a combination of smart restaurant and bare wood bar with a relaxed atmosphere. 262 Ponsonby Road Tel: (09) 360 1113. Price: NZ$30 or NZ$20 for a pizza. Wine: NZ$25. Hammerheads Seafood Restaurant & Bar This is a very popular waterfront restaurant with a balcony where it pays to be seen, white awning and views of the Auckland skyline and harbour. It has a reputation for slow service, although the cocktails are dynamite and the food is well worth the wait. Specialities include very fresh fish and shellfish, with some lamb, poultry and beef dishes. 19 Tamaki Drive, Okahu Bay Tel: (09) 521 4400. Fax: (09) 521 4499. E-mail: info@hammerheads.co.nz Website: www.hammerheads.co.nz Price: NZ$65. Wine: NZ$18–25. Toto Restaurant Possibly the city’s finest Italian restaurant, this open and airy opera-filled room (with live opera on Thursday and Saturday) leads to a sunny terrace where it is good to be seen eating at the white-clad tables. The ripieno (stuffed breads) make mouth-watering appetisers and the roasted scallops and lobster are delicious. 53 Nelson Street Tel: (09) 302 2665. Fax: (09) 302 2047. E-mail: toto@totorestaurant.co.nz Website: www.totorestaurant.co.nz Price: NZ$70. Wine: NZ$18-35. Vinnies Restaurant Best bib and tucker is advised when visiting one of the few formal restaurants in Auckland, located just five minutes from the city centre. With immaculate white linen tablecloths and an exclusive atmosphere, the food is prepared on wood-fired ovens, so dishes like braised lamb and snapper ceviche have a delicious and highly distinctive flavour. 166 Jervios Street, Herne Bay Tel: (09) 376 5597. Fax: (09) 376 5559. E-mail: vinnies@xtra.co.nz Website: www.aucklandrestaurants.co.nz/vinnies Price: NZ$75. Wine: NZ$25-50. Business Euro Euro opened just in time for the America’s Cup defence and since then has been the place to be seen in town. It has superb service, bare wood and tastefully refined decor, as well as a fantastically imaginative and varied menu, including rotisserie chicken on a bed of mashed potato and peanut slaw. Princes Wharf Tel: (09) 309 9866. Price: NZ$70. Wine: NZ$18-30. Iguaçu Often the haunt of young corporate wannabes and their hangers-on, Iguacu is a wood and flash brasserie. It has large glass windows through which patrons look out and passers-by look in at them indulging in good but expensive steaks, pan-fired lamb and fresh fish. There is also excellent jazz on Sunday brunchtime. 269 Parnell Road, Parnell Tel: (09) 358 4804. E-mail: info@iguacu.co.nz Website: www.iguacu.co.nz Price: NZ$90. Wine: NZ$25-50. Ottos Once a magistrates court, this lovely building is now one of the premier restaurants in the city with tasteful decor and loads of potted plants. The food is catholic in its influences and melts on the taste buds, especially the duck confit, dressed in coconut and palm sugar, and the seared venison with onion ravioli. 40 Kitchener Street Tel: (09) 300 9595. Price: NZ$80. Wine: NZ$25-60. Porterhouse Blue The decor is tasteful, the service faultless and the quality of the food on offer is top draw in Devonport’s most well thought of restaurant. Particular favourites are lamb’s brains, roasted ribeye, artichoke ravioli and a selection of tangy and creamy goat’s cheeses. 58 Caliope Road, Devonport Tel: (09) 445 4263. Fax: (09) 446 0309. Price: NZ$80. Wine: NZ$25-35. Sake Bar Rikka This is the best Japanese restaurant in town, with the usual plinky music, wall hangings and gleaming clean surfaces. Dishes include chicken teriyaki, a dazzling variety of sushi, miso and a never-ending tempura platter with hot sauce and pickled ginger, all washed down by authentic sake. Victoria Park Market Tel: (09) 377 8239. Price: NZ$75. Wine: NZ$25-35. Trendy Ding How This is a lively, intimate Cantonese restaurant with some traditional eastern decor, with a tendency to fill early and stay that way. Trays of steaming dim sum are carried around the floor, while the waiters shout out the options to guests who literally just stop them to peek under the lids. Second Floor, 55 Albert Street, Patrick Square Tel: (09) 358 4838. Fax: (09) 358 4855. Price: NZ$70. Wine: NZ$15-25. Kermadic A large, fashionable and imaginatively decorated seafood specialist with a big bustling and music-filled brasserie, Kermadic serves classier versions of bistro favourites – pan-fried snapper, Cajun-spiced fish, fish curry and scallops. The adjacent Pacific Room dances to the beat of an altogether quieter, more expensive and refined drum. First Floor of the Viaduct Basin, corner of Hobson Street and Quay Street Tel: (09) 309 0413. Price: NZ$80. Wine: NZ$20-40. Tuatara Named after a lizard – some might say it is full of its scaled cousins – this is the ultimate place to be seen and to see the in-crowd. It is as brash as Gordon Gheko’s crocodile wallet and as overpriced but the salads, fish, pasta dishes and snacks all taste good and the wine list is fantastic. 198 Ponsonby Road, Parnell Tel: (09) 360 0098. Price: NZ$110. Wine: From NZ$25-55. Vivo Out in the café and fashion boutique end of Newmarket, is this intimate little gourmet pizza house, with tables in the street and a gorgeous wooden-floored interior. The pizzas have a thin-ish crispy base and a variety of toppings designed to dazzle the senses. There is also back up from pastas and salads, all at relatively low prices. 65 Davis Crescent, Newmarket Tel: (09) 522 0688. Price: NZ$60. Wine: NZ$18-30. Wildfire A new flashy kid on the block, with black-topped waterside tables and massive fiery grills inside. Gourmet pizzas are produced, which, although good, are put completely in the shade by rotisserie specials of quail, duck, venison, steak and many more, marinated in herbs and spices and roasted over manuka coals. Princes Wharf Tel: (09) 353 7595. Fax: (09) 353 7590. E-mail: wildfirerestaurant@xtra.co.nz Website: www.wildfirerestaurant.co.nz Price: NZ$65. Wine: NZ$20-30. Budget Java Room Described as Pacific Rim, the predominant influence in this intimate, light-hued and comfortable restaurant is Indonesian, although there are some fantastic Szechuan dishes, particularly prawn. The spicy fish cakes also take some beating, as does the whole snapper in sambal. 317 Parnell Road, Parnell Tel: (09) 366 1606. Price: NZ$80. Wine: NZ$20-35. Kamo This stripped-down-to-keep-the-prices-down restaurant has functional furniture and a rowdy atmosphere. Pacific Rim is mixed with Mediterranean flavours, to come up with things like fresh fish marinated in coconut cream and finely diced vegetables. 383 Karangahape Road Tel: (09) 377 2313. Price: NZ$70. Wine: NZ$18-35. The Mekong Café The Mekong Café is a rather scruffy looking Vietnamese restaurant that produces authentic and delicious food – sugar cane prawns, chicken dishes full of exciting spices and fluffy rice or crisp noodles. There is an off licence next door, for those who forget to bring their own bottle of wine. 38 Wellesley Street Tel: (09) 303 4245. Price: NZ$70. Wine: BYO. Merchant Mezze Bar This buzzing café-style restaurant has Turkish rugs thrown around and an intimate little deck area. It serves dishes from the Mediterranean, the Middle East and beyond, including Spanish tortilla, grilled mushroom on polenta, ceviche, and Thai green curries. 430 Queen Street Tel/Fax: (09) 307 0349. E-mail: mezzebar@pl.net Website: www.menus.co.nz/mezzebar Price: NZ$50. Wine: NZ$18-25. Monsoon A heady mixture of Thai and Malay food makes for an exotic eating experience at surprisingly low prices. Functional decor takes second place to wonderful satay dishes, peanut and chilli sauce, and fish and tiger prawns in a vibrant red curry sauce. 71 Victoria Road Tel: (09) 445 4263. Price: NZ$55. Wine: NZ$20-30. Personal Recommendations Bluefins This is yet another informal, friendly, hanging-basket-strewn, wooden-floored and apparently simple seafood specialist but this time in the glorious surroundings of Okahu Bay. The fish is fresh, the seared scallops melt in the mouth, the tuna is just pink in the centre and the paua is large, golden and tastes of the sea. Corner of Tamaki Drive and Aitkin Avenue, Okahu Bay Tel: (09) 528 4551. Website: www.bluefins.co.nz Price: NZ$65. Wine: NZ$20-30. Bolliwood A vast Indian restaurant in the style of that country’s films, Bolliwood has a retina-irritating bright colour scheme and a bunch of waiters who play to the crowd so much so that it is obvious they are all actors waiting for their big break. The dairy dishes are worth trying for a bit of richness or the spicier southern dishes for some real steam heat. 110 Ponsonby Road Tel: (09) 376 8966. Price: NZ$65. Wine: NZ$20-35. Harbourside Seafood Bar and Grill This is a typical informal Kiwi seafood restaurant that is extremely classy, because of the beauty of the location and the quality of the food and wine. It offers a myriad of prepared and presented fish and crustaceans, with inland fare for the unenlightened. 99 Quay Street Tel: (09) 307 0486. Fax: (09) 307 0523. E-mail: harbourside.auck@xtra.co.nz Website: www.harboursiderestaurant.co.nz Price: NZ$70. Wine: NZ$25-35. Simple Cottage Bare wood furniture, simple decor and a homey relaxed atmosphere mark out this vegetarian establishment and all-day coffee house as a good place for visitors to stop off for a caffeine buzz or a herbal tea. This should be followed by tofu burgers, salads, lasagne, falafel or moussaka. 50 High Street Tel: (09) 303 4599. Price: NZ$40. Wine: NZ$20-35. Tony’s Tony’s is a no-fuss or bother steakhouse, where the portions are about the size of the animals from which they were removed. The massive sides of beef and lamb are cooked beautifully, while the accompaniments, which include pumpkin mash and sweet potato wedges, are wholesome and delicious in equal measure. 32 Lorne Street Tel: (09) 373 2138. Price: NZ$50. Wine: NZ$19-25. Sport In New Zealand, it is popularly held that sport has taken the place of religion at the weekends. Frankly, Kiwi sports fans have a lot to be proud of on the fields of sporting endeavour. This small nation is, by comparison, very successful on an international scale at several sports, notably rugby, cricket and netball. The Rugby League season is April to September and the local team is the Vodafone Warriors (website: www.warriors.co.nz), who play at the Ericsson Stadium, Maurice Road, Penrose (tel: (09) 526 0888). The New Zealand Rugby Football League (tel: (09) 524 4013) provides further information. The Rugby Union season is also April to September and the national team, the All Blacks (website: www.allblacks.com), play either at Eden Park, Reimers Avenue, Kingsland (tel: (09) 849 5555) or the Ericsson Stadium (see above), when they are in Auckland, although they also play in Wellington, Chrsitchurch and Dunedin. The New Zealand Rugby Football Union (tel: (04) 499 4995; website: www.nzrugby.co.nz) provides further information. Six cricket grounds reflect the city’s interest in this game – the most famous is Eden Park, which has staged 225 first-class games since 1913. Tickets to sporting events are available for purchase through Ticketek (tel: (09) 307 5000). The Visitor Information Centre (tel: (09) 979 2333) provides details of all sporting events. Fitness centres: The Olympic Pool and Fitness Centre (tel: (09) 522 4414), Broadway, Newmarket, is open to the public and has excellent facilities, as well as two swimming pools, spa and sauna. Visitors planning to use the gym will need to do an induction course, for insurance purposes. Admission is around NZ$15 Golf: There are several golf courses in and around Auckland, including the Chamberlain Park Public Golf Course, 46a Linwood Avenue, Western Springs (tel: (09) 846 6758), where 18 holes costs around NZ$25, and the Gulf Harbour Country Club, on the Hibiscus Coast (tel: (09) 424 5450), where 18 holes costs NZ$70 weekdays and from NZ$80 weekends. Visiting golfers can play guest rounds for a nominal fee at public courses and annual membership at other clubs are usually low by European standards. Equestrian sports: There are several racecourses in Auckland, with night trotting each Friday and Saturday, at the Alexandra Park Raceway in Epsom. Visitors should contact the Recorded Racing Information Service (tel: (09) 520 7507). Horseriding is also very popular in New Zealand and there are several stables within easy reach of the city. Most offer lessons, independent or guided rides, with horses for all levels of ability. Stables include Horse Riding Warkworth (tel: (09) 425 8517), Montgomerie Farm (tel: (09) 292 8724), Pakiri Beach Horse Riding (tel: (09) 422 6275) and Shepherds Point Horse Riding (tel: (09) 372 8194). Costs starts from approximately NZ$25 per hour. Closer to the city centre are is the Muriwai Riding Centre, Muriwai (tel: (09) 411 8480), which organises treks on the beach and in the forest, providing excellent views of the local gannet colony, costing NZ$45 for two hours. Swimming: The best swimming is off the beaches that are easily reached from central Auckland, including several along Tamaki Drive and Cheltenham Beach in Northshore, on the east coast of the Devonport peninsula. There are also ten major swimming pools in the city, notably the Olympic Pool and Fitness Centre, Broadway, Newmarket (tel: (09) 522 4414). This was built for the 1950 Empire Games and, in addition to the main 50m (164ft) pool, there is a smaller pool, fitness centre, sauna and spa. The Visitor Information Centre (tel: (09) 979 2333) provides a booklet listing the city’s pools and recreation centres. Tennis: The country’s main international tennis venue is in Auckland, the ASB Bank Tennis Centre, 72 Stanley Street (tel: (09) 373 3623). There are five indoor and seven floodlit outdoor courts, with equipment hire and coaching facilities available. Court hire costs from NZ$20 per hour. More courts are available at the Vodafone Tennis Park, 69 Merton Road, Glen Innes (tel: (09) 528 9782), with six indoor and 17 outdoor courts, equipment hire and coaching available. Watersports: Needless to say, the city is a prime watersports destination. It is claimed that roughly one in six Aucklanders owns a boat, while one in three goes boating on a regular basis. The city’s world profile was increased even further by the Americas Cup – the finals were held here in February 2000, when New Zealand retained the cup – and it is now the venue for the next battle for the ‘old mug’, running from 2002 to the summer of 2003. Kayaking can be arranged through Outdoor Recreations and Challenges, in the Birkenhead Leisure Centre, Mahara Avenue, Birkenhead (tel: (09) 418 4109), and through Fergs Kayaks, 12 Tamaki Drive (tel: (09) 529 2230). Hire starts from approximately NZ$12 per hour or NZ$30 per half-day, with guided tours from NZ$60 per half-day. Windsurfing can be arranged at several of the beaches along Tamaki Drive, while jet skiing is available from Jet Ski Tours (tel: (09) 486 088). The chance to sail an Americas Cup yacht is available from Viking Cruises (tel: (0800) 724 569), costing around NZ$85 for two hours. Shopping Auckland has an ever-increasing reputation for being an excellent shopping destination, with a vibrant homegrown fashion industry and retailers stocking all the latest international designer labels. The Kiwi fashion industry is at the cutting edge, taking – as the food industry once did – influences from Europe, Polynesia and the Pacific Rim and then, through the process of fusion, coming up with a unique style. This can range from the simple and sophisticated to the avant-garde, or from the downright practical to the high art creations of the World of Wearable Arts (an internationally recognised fashion festival in Nelson). Good fashion outlets are mainly located in the city centre, notably the High Street. Local names include Karen Walker (worn by Madonna), Zambesi, Workshop and World. New Zealand’s fine foodstuffs may not make practical purchases but its wine certainly does. The relative lack of fine wine merchants in the country is a positive advantage, as most people go direct to the vineyards and thus avoid paying inflated prices, because of the middleman’s mark up. Visitors should watch out for names such as Coopers Creek, Kumeu River, Nobilo and Matua Valley or check out the free Winemakers of Auckland leaflet, available at the visitor centre. As for wineries from further afield, the ones from the Martinborough, Hawkes Bay, Marlborough and Gold Country regions are all of high quality. Woollen and leather goods are also good options, as well as Maori traditional crafts and items made from pounamu (greenstone). For jewellery, Fingers, 2 Kitchener Street (tel: (09) 373 3974), stocks creations from dozens of top native designers, while Compendium, 5 Lorne Street (tel: (09) 300 3212), is the best all-round store for general crafts. Some of the best designer gear for outdoors and in, made from natural fabrics, is available from Untouched World, 20 High St (tel: (09) 303 1382), an up-and-coming label with products crossing a broad range, from food to clothing, rather than just the usual range of knitwear. Shops are usually open on weekdays from 0900-1700, with late-night shopping on Friday until 2100 in some parts of central Auckland, such as Queen Street. Areas such as this and some of the larger suburban shopping malls, also open on Saturday 0900-1700, as well as some on Sunday from about 1000 until 1600. Visitors should note that the suburbs of Auckland are also renowned for their shopping opportunities – some for fashion, others for sparklers and stinkies – so it is always worth straying off the beaten track. Aotea Square, next to the IMAX Cinema and opposite the Town Hall, has a market on Friday and Saturday mornings, selling arts and crafts, clothes and jewellery. The Victoria Park Market is open daily from 0900-1800 and is a big flea market where shoppers can get virtually anything. The Polynesian Market is situated ust south of Mount Eden and is open on Saturday morning. Sales tax is 12.5%. Provided receipts are kept, visitors can claim a tax refund at the airport or through the local New Zealand embassy upon return. Culture The New Zealand cultural scene is vibrant and receives a lot more attention these days than it did of old, principally because of the film release of the first of the Lord of the Rings trilogy. Auckland, as a cultural melting pot, has a particularly healthy and diverse cultural scene, although not everything the city generates gets beyond its own shores. One of the centres of Auckland cultural life is The Edge, a conglomeration of buildings around the junctions of Queen Street, Wellesley Street West, Albert Street and Mayoral Drive. Auckland Town Hall, Queen Street (tel: (09) 309 2677) is an impressively renovated building, with its Great Hall said to have some of the finest acoustics in the world. Behind the Town Hall, the Aotea Centre, Queen Street (tel: (09) 307 5060), has main and small stages, for drama, music, ballet and opera. For a taste of the alternative culture, with a bit more of a Polynesian influence, visitors should take a Saturday trip up the Karangahape (K) Road, or for that matter to any of the cultural or flea markets that spring up around the city on Saturday. K Road is awash with mainly Maori and Polynesian shops, butchers, fishmongers, grocers, craft shops, clothes shops, cafés and restaurants, all of which offer a colourful view of one side of the bi-cultural nature of Auckland. Tickets can be booked through Ticketek, at the Aotea Centre, Queen Street (tel: (09) 307 5000). The Thursday and Saturday editions of the New Zealand Herald, the free monthly listings magazine, What’s Happening, and the free newspaper, Tourist Times provide listings and information on cultural performance and events in Auckland. Listings are also available online (website: www.aucklandnz.com). Music: The Auckland Philharmonic and the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra both play at the Auckland Town Hall, Queen Street (tel: (09) 309 2677), and there are many other regular classical concerts here. The New Zealand Symphony Orchestra from Wellington also frequently performs in Auckland, usually at the Town Hall or the Aotea Centre, Queen Street (tel: (09) 307 5000). Outdoor concerts are also held regularly in summer in the Auckland Domain. Classical music, opera and ballet are the remit of the Auckland Philharmonic and are often performed at the Auckland Town Hall. Theatre: The main venue, with various sized auditoriums, is the Aotea Centre, Queen Street (tel: (09) 307 5000). The beautifully restored Civic Theatre, Queen Street and Wellesley Street West (tel: (09) 309 2677), north of the Town Hall, is used for plays and musicals. More modern rock, dance, drama and cabaret performances take place at the Sky City Theatre, corner of Federal Street and Victoria Street (tel: (09) 912 6000). Local productions can be seen at the Dolphin Theatre, Spring Street, Onehunga (tel: (09) 636 7322) and the Howick Little Theatre Inc, Lloyd Elsmore Park, Howick (tel: (09) 534 1406). Dance: Numerous local dance groups include the Auckland Dance Company. There are regular visits from the Royal New Zealand Ballet Company, whose base is in Wellington. Most performances are given at the Aotea Centre, Queen Street (tel: (09) 307 5000). Black Grace is an all-male dance troupe from the Pacific Islands, while the Pounamu Maori Performance Group give regular displays of Polynesian song and dance at the Auckland Museum, Auckland Domain (tel: (09) 306 7067). Film: The city has numerous cinemas, with the best listings in the daily New Zealand Herald. Most of the mainstream cinemas are along Queen Street, at the junction with Wellesley Street, including the Mid-City Cinema Centre, 239 Queen Street (tel: (09) 302 0277), and the St James Theatre, 312 Queen Street (tel: (09) 377 4241). The main arthouse cinema is the Academy, beneath the city library, 64 Lorne Street (tel: (09) 373 2761). There is also a seven-storey high IMAX screen at Force Entertainment Centre, next to Aotea Square, Queen Street (tel: (09) 979 2400). The best-known film to come out of New Zealand is undoubtedly The Fellowship of the Ring (2001), part one of the Lord of the Rings trilogy, directed by Peter Jackson, part of which was filmed not far from Auckland. The city has achieved more serious celluloid acclaim for itself, with the 1994 film, Once Were Warriors, made from Alan Duff’s harrowing novel about the struggle of a poor Maori family in south Auckland. Cultural events: Opera in the Park, in February, is a family-orientated concert put on at Auckland Domain. The Pasifika Festival celebrates Polynesian culture and takes place in Western Springs, each March. There are numerous small food, wine and music festivals throughout the year, especially during summer. The year ends with Christmas in the Park, another family-orientated concert at the Auckland Domain. Literary Notes New Zealand, rather than just Auckland, has several literary figures, many of whom are known internationally, such as Katherine Mansfield, most noted for her short stories. Janet Frame, tipped for the Nobel Prize for Literature, deals largely with the emotional crises that she herself experienced, while Keri Hulme, of mixed Maori, English and Orkney descent, won the Booker Prize for The Bone People (1983). This was an experimental work drawing on Maori culture and the best selling book ever by any living New Zealand author. Maurice Gee, who worked in Auckland as a teacher and later a librarian, sets several of his novels in Auckland. Alan Duff, whose kitchen-sink dramas, like Once Were Warriors (1990), examine the place of Maori in modern society. Nightlife Auckland may not be New York or Paris but it has its share of night entertainment. The waterfront is where most of the smarter venues are, in particular around the Americas Cup Village and the new Princes Wharf development. High Street, to the south of Queens Wharf, also has a number of good bars, including some with live music. In bars and clubs the dress code tends to be casual, although some places enforce a smarter rule and are particularly anti black jeans and leathers, since these tend to be clothes favoured by gangs. Licensing laws are not strict and some bars have a 24-hour licence, while others remain open into the early hours. The age limit for drinking alcohol is 18 years. On average, a pint of beer will cost approximately NZ$3-5, while a glass of wine can be anything from NZ$4-8, depending upon where you do your drinking. To find out what is on, read the Thursday and Saturday editions of the New Zealand Herald, the free monthly listings magazine, What’s Happening, or the free newspaper, Tourist Times. Bars: Lots of local favourites are down by the waterfront, such as The Loaded Hog, Quay Street, in the Viaduct Basin, with newly fashionable hangouts in Princes Wharf – refurbished in time for the 2000 Americas Cup – including the Belgian Café Hoegaarden and the decidedly un-Russian vodka bar, Lenin Bar. With the city’s British-influenced past, it is not surprising that there are numerous British-style bars in Auckland, the biggest being the Civic Tavern, 1 Wellesley Street West. This has an Irish bar, Murphy’s, and an English bar, the London Bar, both situated downstairs, with live music and a bistro restaurant. The Immigrant, 104 Fanshawe Street, is an out-and-out Irish pub, with live music at weekends, The Rose and Crown, 69 Customs Street, is an English bar with music, open from Wednesday to Saturday, while the Kiwi Tavern, 3 Britomart Place, is a pool bar with drink specials. The Shakespeare Tavern, 61 Albert Street, is a micro-brewery producing its own beer, while the Tabac, 6 Mills Lane, is renowned for its comfortable velvet room and for being part-owned by ex Crowded House singer Neil Finn. Casinos: Sky City Casino (tel: (09) 912 6000), in the Skytower, on the corner of Victoria and Federal Streets, is a gambling haven and an entertainment complex that includes a theatre, restaurant, bars and a hotel, as well as the casino itself. There is a minimum age of 20 years for entering the casino, although a passport is not required. Dress code is smart-casual and no T shirts, jeans or sandals are allowed. Clubs: The Club, 371 Queen Street, is a good place to start, with DJs from 2200 on Friday and Saturday. At the harbour, The Loaded Hog, Quay Street, in the Viaduct Basin, has long been a favoured hangout for yachties and yuppies alike. The younger and wilder crowd go to Calibre, St Kevin’s Arcade, 179 Karangahape (K) Road, but not before 2300, Thursday to Saturday, as it is open until 0800. Alternatives include Galatos, 17 Galatos Street, a mellow lounge bar with DJ-led dancing, Java Jive, 12 Pompallier Terrace, a basement bar full of live acoustic, jazz and blues music, Khuja Lounge, 536 Queen Street, a music lovers bar for the mellower older crowd and The Power Station, 33 Mount Eden Road, the most happening of the rock and rap dance venues. Comedy: Classic, 31 Queen Street, is a well-known comedy venue that showcases local talent as well as up and coming international acts. Live Music: There is plenty of choice at the weekends, mostly in the Downtown areas, along Karangahape (K) Road and in Ponsonby. Try The Temple, 486 Queen Street, which has music every night after 1700, Deschlers, 17 High Street, for live jazz Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, or Papa Jack’s Voodoo Lounge, 9 Vulcan Street, which has live touring bands and DJs. If folk music appeals, each Monday there are live acts at 2000 at the Devonport Folk Music Club, which meets in The Bunker, Mt Victoria, Devonport. City Statistics Location: Auckland Region, North Island, New Zealand. Country dialling code: 64. Population: 1.16 million (greater Auckland region). Ethnic mix: 73% European descent, 12% Maori descent, 6% other Pacific Islanders (including Tonga, Samoa and Cook Islands), 5% Asian, 4% other. Religion: Predominantly Christian, with representation of all the other major religious groups in the world (Muslim, Buddhist, Hindu, Jewish and many more). Time zone: GMT + 12. Electricity: 240-250 volts AC, 50Hz; flat three-pin plugs are used. Converters are available for standard UK, European and American plugs in New Zealand and all major airports and it is a good idea for visitors to take a voltage surge protector for sensitive equipment, such as computers. Average January temp: 24ºC (75ºF). Average July temp: 14ºC (57ºF). Annual rainfall: 1185mm (46.2 inches). Special Events Auckland Anniversary Day Regatta, 27 Jan 2003, Waitemata Harbour Americas Cup, yacht racing, 10 Feb-5 Mar, Auckland harbour, starting at the yacht basin Devonport Food and Wine Festival, third week in Feb, Devonport Opera in the Park, Feb, Auckland Domain Pasifika Festival, Polynesian Festival, 1 Mar, Western Springs Reserve Round the Bays Run, 70,000 plus jog ten kilometres (6 miles), 30 Mar, Tawaki Drive Royal New Zealand Easter Show, equestrian events, wine tastings and arts and crafts, 19-21 Apr, showgrounds at Greenlane Waiheke Jazz Festival, Apr, various venues Auckland Comedy Festival Apr-May, various venues Auckland International Film Festival, early Jul, various cinemas and Town Hall Auckland-Russell Yacht Race, late Oct, Auckland harbour, starting at the yacht basin Wine Waitakere, Oct, Waitakere Ellerslie Flower Show, late Nov, Auckland Botanic Gardens, Manurewa Auckland Cup, horseracing event, Dec, Ellerslie Race Course Christmas in the Park, Dec, Auckland Domain Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: NZ$4 75cl bottle of beer: NZ$4–6 Financial Times newspaper: NZ$1 36-exposure colour film: NZ$14 City-centre bus ticket: NZ$1.20 Adult rugby or cricket ticket: NZ$45–75 Three-course meal with wine/beer: from NZ$70 1 New Zealand Dollar (NZ$1) = £0.36; US$0.57; C$0.84; A$0.94; €0.52 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.