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_City Overview With its reputation focused on the water, Baltimore – the largest city, although not the capital of Maryland – is a microcosm of the history of the USA’s eastern seaboard. Named after the second Lord Baltimore, George Calvert, the city was founded in 1729 and now calls itself ‘Charm City’, referring to its citizens’ concern for and appreciation of the quality of urban life. Its position on the Patapsco River, at the top of the northwestern fork of the Chesapeake Bay, Baltimore gives direct access to the Atlantic Ocean. In the early days of European settlement, Baltimore was also the westernmost ocean-going harbour, making it invaluable as a link with the railways that reached into the fast-growing agricultural lands of the interior. Cereal mills prospered on the rivers flowing into the Bay, ensuring that industry and shipping were soon established. The successful Revolutionary War against Britain, which Baltimore survived intact, brought not only increased prosperity but also a song that went onto greater heights as the USA’s national anthem, ‘The Star Spangled Banner’, referring to the flag that flew over the city’s Fort McHenry. The Inner Harbor area is representative of the city’s forward-looking attitude. Once the place where the Baltimore Clippers – fast two-mast schooners – were built, after the American Revolution, the area now successfully combines business, shopping, hotels, restaurants and sightseeing. The docklands was subject to a hugely successful urban regeneration scheme and the newly developed Inner Harbor was opened in 1980. The efficient water taxi service, which also provides a good way to view the city’s impressive seafront skyline, enhances the success of the regeneration. An ongoing one billion US Dollar redevelopment will further improve the area. The Inner Harbor’s wealth of seafood also reflects the city’s economy, which has gone from complete reliance on its harbour to encompassing more general financial, banking, insurance and tourism-related industries. The nearby Downtown is centred on thriving Lexington Market, established in 1782, which still houses over 140 merchants – originally solely farmers but now vendors of all kinds. The clear identification of neighbourhoods and districts is a feature of Baltimore, giving a sense of local identity in each one. Historic districts that once would have been decaying inner-city areas, such as Fells Point and Federal Hill, now are bustling communities, home to the businesspeople who work in the nearby Downtown areas. Mount Vernon and Little Italy also both retain the atmosphere of a large village. There is a vitality to the city, stretching out from the campuses of Johns Hopkins University to the north and the University of Maryland near the Downtown. Johns Hopkins himself – whose name is attached to many public buildings – rose from a humble greengrocer in 1819, to a wealthy and philanthropic merchant by 1847. He embodies Baltimore’s work ethic and the American dream. Baltimore has an eclectic range of famous names associated with it. The city was the birthplace of legendary baseball player ‘Babe’ Ruth and of revered literary critic H L Mencken. Writer Edgar Allan Poe and singer Billie Holiday have also left their mark, as has British Royalty. ‘Bessie’ Wallis Warfield – known to the British as the double divorcee, Mrs Simpson, who later married King Edward VIII, causing his abdication – lived for many years in the Mount Vernon section of Baltimore. Whether in its hot, muggy summers or mild, damp and snowy winters, Baltimore is lively and a good base from which to explore rural Maryland. It is a city that is not only proud of its heritage but also confident of the future, preferring to shape the inevitable changes rather than be subject to them. Nonetheless, one thing has never changed – it is considered almost a crime for one to leave the city without tasting Baltimore’s speciality, the abundant Maryland crabs. Getting There By Air Baltimore-Washington International Airport (BWI) Tel: (800) 435 9294 or (410) 859 7111 or 7032. Fax: (410) 859 3960. Website: www.bwiairport.com Baltimore Washington International is located 16km (ten miles) south of Baltimore, off Route 295, 48km (30 miles) northeast of Washington, DC. It is Maryland’s busiest airport, with around 19.6 million passengers annually using the airport. Major airlines: US Airways (tel: (800) 428 4322; website: www.usair.com) and Southwest Airlines (tel: (800) 435 9792; website: www.southwest.com) are the major domestic carries operating out of BWI. Other major carriers include Air Aruba, Air Canada, Air Jamaica, American Airlines, America West, British Airways, Continental, Delta, Ghana Airways, Icelandair, Northwest, TWA and United Airlines. Approximate flight times to Baltimore: From London is 8 hours 30 minutes; from New York is 1 hour; from Los Angeles is 5 hours 40 minutes; from Toronto is 1 hour 40 minutes and from Sydney is 24 hours. Airport facilities: Facilities include a wide range of restaurants, bars, shopping and duty free, as well as postal services, ATMs and bureaux de change. There is a 24-hour disabled request help service. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz, National and Thrifty. Business facilities: There is a Business Service Centre (tel: (410) 859 5997) with a conference room, fax and photocopying facilities and connections for laptop computers. There are also workstations available at the airport. Arrival and departure tax: None. Transport to the city: BWI Super Shuttle minibus service (tel: (800) 258 3826) goes to Downtown hotels every 30 minutes 0600-2300 (journey time – 30 minutes) and also can be pre-booked for other journeys. The cost of the airport transfer is US$11 one way and US$18 return (only available from the airport). Some hotels have their own complimentary shuttle service. A MARC (tel: (800) 325 7245) train goes to Penn station (journey time – 15 minutes), weekdays 0700-2200. The fare is US$3.25 single or US$6 return. Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) also provides a daily service to Penn station in Baltimore but services can be irregular. There is a continuous, free shuttle bus between the airport and the train station (journey time – less than 10 minutes). Taxis and limousines are available at the airport. Airport Taxis (tel: (410) 859 1100) specifically meet arrivals. The trip Downtown costs approximately US$20 (journey time – 20 minutes). Getting There By Water The Port of Baltimore is more commercial than leisure orientated, although several of the large cruise liners call in. Dundalk Marine Terminal, 2700 Broering Highway, is the passenger terminal. Facilities include secured long-term parking. The Inner Harbor is the pleasure and tourist area, with a good water taxi service (see Getting Around). The Baltimore City Dockmaster Office, 561 Light Street (tel: (410) 396 3174; fax: (410) 545 7973) and the Maryland Port Administration (tel: (800) 638-7519 or (410) 385 4444; website: www.marylandports.com) provide further information. Ferry services: There are no ferry services to and from the Port of Baltimore, however, cruise companies such as Carnival Cruise Lines (tel: (888) CARNIVAL; website: www.carnival.com) and Celebrity Cruises (tel: (800) 722 5941; website: www.celebritycruises.com) operate services to a number of destinations in Europe, the Caribbean, Canada and South America. Transport to the city: The harbour is situated in the heart of the city, a short distance from Penn station. Taxis are available at Dundalk Marine Terminal. Getting There By Road The motorway (interstate and freeway) network in America is very good. The general rule for numbering on US freeways and interstates is that the odd numbers go north–south and the even numbers go east–west over the whole length, although at any single, localised point this may seem different. Interstate roads are designated by the letter ‘I’ and a corresponding number. Driving is on the right. The speed limits on the different motorways can vary. The general maximum is 90kph (55mph), with some spots being 110kph (70mph). Speed limits in residential areas can be as slow as 30kph (20mph), with specifically posted limits near schools. It is illegal to pass a yellow ‘School Bus’ when it is stationary with its lights flashing. Seatbelts are obligatory for front-seat passengers. Prosecution for drink-driving is severe – the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.10%. The legal driving age in Baltimore is 16 years. A British driving licence is valid, although a temporary International Driving Permit is also a good idea. Third party insurance is mandatory, although it is highly recommended for driving visitors to ensure that they have adequate travel medical insurance, as the cost of medical treatment in the USA is huge. Petrol (‘gas’) is four to five times cheaper in the US than it is in Europe. Virtually all ‘gas stations’ situated on main roads are open 24 hours a day and operate a pre-pay system at the pumps using a credit card – otherwise, it is necessary for drivers to make themselves known to the cashier. The American Automobile Association – AAA (tel: (800) 222 1333) provides information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries. Emergency breakdown service: AAA (800) AAA HELP or 222 4357 Routes to the city: All the major routes approaching Baltimore meet the I-695, called the Baltimore Beltway, which circles the city. The Jones Falls Expressway (the I-83) winds right into the central Inner Harbor district, from the north and Harrisburg. The I-395 comes in from the southeast, with good access to Downtown Baltimore and to the Port of Baltimore. The Baltimore National Pike road (the I-40) comes in from the west, from Frederick. The I-95 comes from the northwest, Philadelphia and beyond that, from New York. The I-95 continues southwest towards Washington, DC, running parallel to the Baltimore-Washington Expressway. The I-97 leads in from the south as the main route linking Baltimore to the peninsular on the east side of Chesapeake Bay. The I-895, the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel Thruway, bypasses Downtown. Tolls operate at the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel (I-895), at the Fort McHenry Tunnel (I-95) and both north- and southbound at the Francis Scott Key Bridge (part of the Baltimore Beltway). There are also tolls northbound on the John F Kennedy Memorial Highway (part of I-95). Approximate driving times to Baltimore: From Washington, DC – 35 minutes; Philadelphia – 2 hours; Harrisburg – 2 hours; New York – 4 hours. Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (410) 752 0919 or (800) 231 2222; website: www.greyhound.com) operates frequent coach services, connecting Baltimore with all major US and Canadian cities. The main bus station, Downtown Baltimore Terminal, 210 West Fayette Street (tel: (410) 752 1393), is situated in quite a run-down area, although it is busy during the day. There is a second, less frequented station point at the Baltimore Travel Plaza, Best Western Hotel, 5625 O’Donnell Street (tel: (410) 633 6389). Getting There By Rail Penn Station, 1500 North Charles Street (tel: (410) 291 4261), is located in the Mount Vernon district. Both the local provider, Maryland Area Rail Commuter – MARC (tel: (800) 325 7245; website: www.mtamaryland.com), and the national provider, Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com), use this station. Facilities at Penn station include restaurants, ATMs, a postal vending machine, waiting room, baggage checking, porter service, full disabled access and car hire from Thrifty. The standard of service on both MARC and Amtrak is good, with modern networks and comfortable conditions. There is no integrated national enquiries hotline and travellers with enquiries should contact the separate service providers or the relevant route/destination station. Rail services: Baltimore is situated along the northeastern Amtrak corridor, which goes from Washington, DC to Boston via Philadelphia and New York. Other destinations are Orlando (journey time – approximately 20 hours) and Miami (journey time – approximately 24 hours) in Florida, New Orleans (journey time – 37 hours 50 minutes) in Louisiana and Raleigh (journey time – 6 hours 50 minutes) in North Carolina. MARC trains head north to Perryville and south to Washington DC (journey time – 35 minutes), from where there are MARC connections on the Brunswick line to destinations in West Virginia (journey time – 1 hour 20 minutes). Transport to the city: Taxis are readily available outside the station. Penn Station is not on the Metro Subway but there are local bus routes that stop here. Getting Around Public Transport Maryland Mass Transit Administration (MTA), 6 St Paul Street (tel: (410) 539 5000; website: www.mtamaryland.com), operates a Light Rail system, the Metro Subway, local buses and the commuter railway MARC (Maryland Area Rail Commuter). The Light Rail connects the centre to the northern and southern suburbs, running parallel in the Downtown areas to Howard Street, with convenient stops for the plush Mount Vernon district, Lexington Market area, the cultural area around Cathedral Street and Oriole Park. The system operates Monday-Friday 0600-2300, Saturday 0700-2300 and Sunday 11-1900. The Metro Subway is clean and fast but has limited stops. It runs from the northwest of the city and then west to east across Downtown. Its Lexington Market and Charles Center stations are within walking distance of the Inner Harbor area. Trains run 0500-2400 weekdays, 0800-2400 Saturday and Sunday. Buses are frequent and an easy means of getting around the city for sightseeing, although visiting several points might involve many bus changes. Operating hours are generally between 0600 and 2300, with some services operating 24 hours over the weekend. MARC serves the commuter corridor between Baltimore and Washington, DC (see Getting There By Rail). Single fares for buses, Light Rail and Metro Subway are US$1.35 – payable by exact cash, token (US$13 for ten tokens) or pre-paid ticket. Any express service costs an extra US$0.35. Tickets for all methods of transport are available for purchase at the point of entry. There are pass schemes available. A US$3 Day Pass is valid for daily transport on buses and Light Rail. There is also a Weekly Pass for US$14, valid for travel on buses, Light Rail and Metro Subway. Passes are available for purchase at the MTA Transit Store on Paul Street, at a number of outlets around the city, from Light Rail vending machines and online. Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street, from taxi ranks and booked by telephone. They are particularly convenient for accessing specific locations in the Downtown area, where driving a car would be very frustrating. Yellow Cab (tel: (410) 685 1213) and Atwater Cab (tel: (410) 682 2100) are two of the main operators. Taxis (‘cabs’) are metered. Hotel staff and taxi drivers will be able to provide a fairly accurate idea of current fares to main tourist destinations, although there is often a higher minimum fare from a hotel. The normal minimum fare on the meter is US$1.40. Tipping of approximately 15% is generally expected. Water Taxis Baltimore’s water taxi service provides an excellent and cheap way for visitors to see the whole Inner Harbor area, as well as other districts such as Little Italy, Fells Point and Federal Hill. The service is operated by Harbor Boating (tel: (410) 563 3901 or (800) 658 8947; website: www.thewatertaxi.com). It is more like a bus service than a taxi service, as there are several different routes, serving 35 attractions and various key districts. In summer, the water taxis also go out to Fort McHenry National Monument. A ticket costs US$5 and is for all-day unlimited use. It also offers discounts to attractions. Narrated tours and charters are also available (see Tours of the City). The operating hours are 1000-2300 weekdays, 1000-2400 Saturdays and 1000-2100 Sundays. The ordinary service runs every 10-20 minutes from April to October and roughly every 45 minutes for the rest of the year. Limousines There are several luxury car operators in Baltimore. The main companies are Aristocrat Limousine Service (tel: (410) 682 2346), Beverly Hills Limo Inc (tel: (410) 747 0893), Dynasty Limousines Inc (tel: (410) 426 0110), Gold Crest Limousine Service (tel: (410) 922 5466), Harford Limousine Corporation (tel: (410) 426 7780), M & B Limousine Service (tel: (410) 242 2929), Royal Coach Service (tel: (410) 391 2784) and Towson Sedan Service (tel: (410) 321 7144). Rates vary according to the size of the limousine, the time of day and whether or not it is a weekend and are from US$50 per hour to around US$85 per hour. Driving in the City Driving is not recommended in the Downtown area, not only because of the busy one-way streets but also because of the cost and difficulty of parking. There is some street parking with meters, which take a combination of small change, although ‘quarters’ (25 cents) are the most useful. The time available per quarter decreases as the streets become closer to the central area. Tourists will mostly be visiting these central districts, around the Inner Harbor area, which can be achieved without a car. Nevertheless, a car can be of use for out-of-the-way and out-of-town attractions. Parking at the Inner Harbour garages costs about US$10-15 per day. At traffic lights, it is possible to turn right, even if the light is actually on red, providing that there is no approaching traffic and no signs that specifically prohibit this. Pedestrians crossing have the right of way, however. A junction may have flashing traffic lights – flashing amber means ‘slow down and be prepared to stop before proceeding’ and flashing red means ‘stop before proceeding as the intersection has become a first-come, first-go junction’. Crossroads with no lights at all also work on a first-come, first-go basis. Car Hire A foreign drivers licence, provided it is in English, is valid in Baltimore, although an International Driving Permit is also a good idea, as this carries a photograph. Insurance will be part of the hire arrangement, although drivers should check what this entails. There is a minimum driving age ranging from 21 to 25. Referred to as ‘car rental’, most of the major companies are available in Baltimore. These include Alamo (tel: (410) 850 5011 or (800) 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: (410) 859 1680 or (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (410) 691 2912 or (800) 527 0700; website: www.budget.com), Dollar (tel: (410) 859 5600 or (800) 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com), Hertz (tel: (410) 850 7400 or (800) 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com), National (tel: (410) 859 8860 or (800) 328 4567; website: www.nationalcar.com) and Thrifty (tel: (410) 859 1136 or (800) 367 2277; website: www.thrifty.com). Rates start at US$83 per day or US$311 per week. These rates do not include taxes and insurance. Bicycle Hire Light Street Cycles, 1015 Light Street (tel: (410) 685 2234) hires out bicycles for US$25-45 per day, charging US$10 for each additional day or US$75 per week. Since the facility is not open on Sunday, no extra fee is assessed if one hires a bicycle on Saturday and returns it on Monday morning. Children’s bicycles are also available, as are accessory items, such as child trailers, vehicle racks and cycle luggage racks. Information on the many other bicycle hire outlets is published online (website: www.localeplaza.com). Business Business Profile Baltimore is at the centre of the nation’s fourth largest, fastest growing consumer market, with its own World Trade Center on the harbour front. The enormous Washington-Baltimore Common Market includes over 6.8 million people. Excellent rail and highway systems put 32% of the country’s population and 34% of the country’s manufacturing base – as well as much of the vast, agricultural Mid-West – within overnight delivery access of Baltimore. Originally founded to handle the crops of local farmers, the Port of Baltimore has become one of the busiest international deep-water ports on the East Coast, with modern marine terminals that can accommodate all cargo – from automobiles and containers to rolling stock and zinc ore. A new International Pier is also being built. Both the Port of Baltimore and the nearby BWI airport offer foreign trade zones. The airport also operates a 24-hour US Customs clearance and has a US Fish and Wildlife port of entry designation. Baltimore’s economy was founded upon industrial and maritime commerce, however, its close proximity to Washington, DC, has enhanced its status as an international tourist destination, which is now a key industry in the city. A massive influx of investment money testifies to this and the general economic buoyancy of Baltimore. Developments include Harbor View, a US$650-million marina and residential development, the US$160-million Christopher Columbus marine research and biotechnology centre, Inner Harbor East, a US$350-million residential, hotel, office, retail and marina complex, the Henderson’s Wharf warehouse conversion at Fells Point, and the transformation of the old industrial site at Canton into a residential, business and entertainment area. BWI airport is also experiencing investment, with a quarter of a billion US Dollars earmarked for development and expansion. Tourism aside, 40% of the local workforce is employed in service industries, 19% in government bureaucracies, 11% in retail and 10% in the finance, insurance and real estate sectors. The headquarters of several major banks, insurance companies and other growth industries are based in Baltimore. These include USF&G Companies and Crown Central Petroleum. The city is also the metropolitan headquarters for IBM and the world headquarters for Alex Brown & Sons. General Motors is another large employer in the area. Baltimore has around 15,000 businesses, over 400 of which have more than 100 employees. The city itself is feeling the benefits, with low unemployment figures of 4.6% in comparison to the 5.4% national average. Business Etiquette Americans can be less formal than Europeans – both in dress and manners – but normal business courtesies should still be observed. The degree of formality often reflects the nature of the business – banking and legal professions will be more formal than computer, ‘silicon valley’ and media companies. Americans will quickly use first names, although both men and women may still be wearing suits. Short-sleeved shirts are acceptable in summer. Business cards are commonly exchanged at meetings. As a visitor, there is nothing wrong in being as formal as in Europe, then relaxing once the attitudes of the host have been established. Punctuality for business meetings is expected and time should always be allowed for traffic delays. Business hours are from 0800/0830 to 1700. Working late is, however, common. Nor is it unusual for people to be working well into the night or over the weekend. Working lunches are more common than working breakfasts and may be anything from a sandwich and coffee to a more serious, although not prolonged, restaurant meal. Socially, Americans are individualistic but meeting for drinks or dinner after work on a Friday is a popular end to the working week. As a guest, not over-indulging in alcohol is always a good idea. Evening dinner invitations might be to the home or to a restaurant. Visitors should bring a bottle of wine to the home or offer to share part of the bill in a restaurant. E-mail is the favourite means of communication. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Much of Baltimore’s sightseeing centres on the revitalised harbour front and the adjacent districts of Federal Hill, ‘SoWeBo’ (South West Baltimore), Mount Vernon, Little Italy and Fells Point (clockwise from the south side of the Inner Harbor). The harbour is still very much a working, ocean-going port, which adds to the interest. Viewing it as a whole from the water taxi service is by far the best introduction for visitors. This not only gives a sense of how the city fits together but also provides one of the most fantastic views of the seafront skyline from the traditional point of entry, the Atlantic Ocean. This view is particularly eye-catching when illuminated at dusk. Baltimore has relied on transport – water, rail and road – for much of its prosperity. As a result of the subsequent movements of people and goods, the city has museums and centres recalling immigration, war, science and the development of the interior agricultural hinterland. There is a healthy respect for and interest in nature, with marine life centres at the harbour area and hiking trails beyond the city. On Druid Hill, in the north of the city, the Baltimore Zoo has a highly praised children’s section, not far from the John Hopkins University. A useful landmark across the square in Mount Vernon is the Washington Monument, a massive obelisk with far-reaching views from its pinnacle. On the harbour front itself, great views are to be had from the Top of the World Observation Level, situated on the 27th floor of the World Trade Center, the world’s tallest pentagonal building. Tourist Information Baltimore Area Convention & Visitors Centre 100 Light Street, 12th Floor Inner Harbor Tel: (410) 659 7300 or (888) 225 8466 or (800) 343 3468 or (877) 225 8466. Fax: (410) 727 2308 or 6769. E-mail: vc@baltimore.org Website: www.baltimore.org Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1000-1700. Another branch is located at 451 Light Street. Passes There are no dedicated tourist passes in Baltimore, although there is free admission to many attractions on the first Thursday of each month. Key Attractions Harborplace Located in Baltimore’s vibrant Inner Harbor, Harborplace and The Gallery, with their twin glass pavilions, are the natural starting points for any sightseeing in Baltimore. There is a promenade of two linked malls, overlooking the water, with shops, cafés, restaurants, boats and architecture, all designed to give a sense of the maritime nature of the city. The Gallery has a stunning six-storey atrium looking out over the water. This is not just a tourist location, however. Over half the customers here are from Baltimore itself. Many major cultural attractions are nearby and it is a starting point for many tours, particularly water tours, on diverse craft such as a Clipper ship, a paddle steamer, a schooner, an oyster boat or water taxi. The open-air Harborplace Amphitheatre is a site of summer festivals and particularly favoured by street performers. A waterfront path leads eastwards to the World Trade Center, with its Observation Level, as well as the National Aquarium and the Maritime Museum with ships and a submarine to visit. Inner Harbor, 200 East Pratt Street Tel: (410) 332 4191. Fax: (410) 547 7317. E-mail: info@harborplace.com Website: www.harborplace.com Transport: Metro Subway Charles Center. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-2100, Sun 1100-1900. Admission: Free. National Aquarium In terms of visitor numbers, the National Aquarium – opened in 1981, on the harbour front – is the city’s most popular attraction. Over 1.6 million people per year marvel at over 10,000 marine and freshwater creatures housed in several different environmental galleries on seven levels and across two piers. The latest permanent exhibit is an indoor ‘Amazon Rainforest’ and home to 75 species, including the dwarf caiman. This is the first clue to realising that this is more than just an aquarium. There is a lot more for visitors to see than just marine life – such as Poison Dart Frogs, anacondas, puffins and conehead lizards. A tour can last around two hours and 30 minutes, with a lot of walking – comfortable shoes are recommended. Next door, at the Marine Mammal Pavilion, Atlantic bottlenose dolphins leave the crowd open-mouthed and smiling with their live antics. The attraction gets very busy and visits before 1100 are recommended. After 1500, the crowds may have eased but the Aquarium might also have sold out by this time. Advance tickets are therefore recommended. These are available for purchase up to 30 days in advance from the Aquarium, however, if visitors plan to purchase tickets the day before attending, these must be bought by 1500 from Ticketmaster (tel: (410) 481 7328 or (800) 551 7328). Pier 3, Inner Harbor, 501 East Pratt Street Tel: (410) 576 3800. Website: www.aqua.org Transport: Metro subway Charles Center or Shot Tower Marketplace; Light Rail Convention Center station. Opening hours: Mon-Thurs 0900-1800, Fri-Sun 0900-2000 (Jul-Aug); Sat-Thurs 0900-1700, Fri 0900-2000 (Mar-Jun and Sep-Oct); Sat-Thurs 1000-1700, Fri 1000-2000 (Nov-Feb); visits continue for two hours after the ‘closing’ time. Admission: US$17.50 (concessions available). National Historic Seaport Water and ships have played a major role in the history of Baltimore, ever since the 1600s. Underscoring this importance is The National Historic Seaport, which includes several Baltimore attractions, such as Fort McHenry National Monument (see below), the historic neighbourhoods of Federal Hill, Canton and Fells Point, the Baltimore Museum of Industry, the USS Constellation, a 150 year-old all-sail war ship that logged 90 years of service for the US Navy, and the Baltimore Maritime Museum. Unlike the average museum, the Baltimore Maritime Museum is a combination of the 1833 Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse and three historic ships – Coast Guard Cutter Taney (a survivor of Pearl Harbor), WW II submarine Torsk, and lightship Chesapeake. The Seaport Day Pass, costing US$15, includes entrance to the Maritime Museum, USS Constellation and water transport to all National Historic Seaport sights and Fort McHenry. Inner Harbor, 802 South Caroline Street Tel: (877) 643 7678. E-mail: nycport@natlhistoricseaport.org Website: www.natlhistoricseaport.org Transport: Metro Subway Charles Center or Shot Tower Marketplace; Light Rail Convention Center station; MTA Bus 1. Baltimore Maritime Museum Inner Harbor, 802 South Caroline Street Tel: (410) 783 1490. E-mail: admin@baltomaritimemuseum.org Website: www.baltomaritimemuseum.org Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-1730, Fri-Sat 1000-1830 (summer, spring and autumn); Fri-Sun 1030-1700 (winter). Admission: US$6. USS Contellation Pier One, 301 East Pratt Street Tel: (410) 539 1797. Fax: (410) 539 6238. E-mail: administration@constellation.org Website: www.constellation.org Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (1 May-14 Oct); daily 1000-1600 (15 Oct-30 Apr). Admission: US$6.50. Baltimore Museum of Industry 1415 Key Highway Tel: (410) 727 4808. Fax: (410) 727 4869. Website: www.thebmi.org Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700. Admission: US$7. Maryland Science Center In the modern vein, there are plenty of interactive exhibits at the Maryland Science Center, with a child-friendly layout over three storeys. Keeping up with current space exploration, there is even an interactive Hubble Telescope on display. The hands-on areas range from discovering mathematics, participating in a dinosaur dig and experimenting with general science (including optical illusions, sound, magnetism, lasers and light). Live demonstrations and presentations change regularly and include topics such as chemical reactions and Special Effects (SFX) for TV and film. The Visible Human Exhibit takes visitors on a virtual journey, turning the body inside out with life-size images and holograms. The real human body that was used was donated by Paul Jernigan, a criminal who wanted to ‘make things right’ after his execution. His corpse was then mapped in one-millimetre sections. A female corpse was later mapped on a seemingly microscopic scale of one-third-of-a-millimetre sections. The centre also contains an IMAX cinema, which includes a film of the weird and wonderful Cirque du Soleil, and a Planetarium, which runs Sungazing Sundays (through safe lenses) and Stargazing Thursdays. 601 Light Street Tel: (410) 685 5225. E-mail: guestservices@mdsci.org Website: www.mdsci.org Transport: Metro Subway Charles Center; Light Rail Camden Yards station. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1200-1700. Admission: US$7.50 (IMAX); US$12 (exhibitions); US$15.50 (combination IMAX and exhibitions); concessions available. Fort McHenry National Monument This star-shaped fort, built in 1803, has a special place in American hearts and larynxes, as the US national anthem was written here. During the war – declared by the USA and starting in 1812 – and the subsequent attempt to conquer Canada, the fort withstood a 25-hour bombardment in September 1814, from British naval forces trying to stop America gaining its independence. Mary Pickersgill sewed the star-spangled flag at Star Spangled Banner Flag House, South President Street, which became the emblem of that victory. Francis Scott Key, a 35-year-old poet and lawyer, wrote the poem, ‘The Star Spangled Banner’, in honour of that same victory. It became the national anthem. The fort remained intermittently active for a century, after its famous battle, before becoming a national park and shrine in 1833. The monument and grounds cover 17 hectares (43 acres). Military ceremonies and drills are performed during the summer. Flag changes take place twice every day, throughout the year (0930 and 1930 in summer and 0930 and 1630 in winter). Exhibits not only include historical and military artefacts but also an electric battle map, as well as new exhibits in the Commander’s Quarters, Guard House, Powder Magazine and the Enlisted Men’s Quarters. The Visitors Center, next door, has a 16-minute historical film, The Defense of Fort McHenry, as well as other interesting exhibits. East Fort Avenue Tel: (410) 962 4290. Fax: (410) 962 2500. E-mail: fomc_superintendent@nps.gov Website: www.nps.gov/fomc Transport: Bus from Harborplace along Fort Avenue; water taxi. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1700 (Sep-May); daily 0800-2000 (Jun-Aug). Admission: US$5 (concessions available). Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Museum Being a trainspotter is not a necessary prerequisite for enjoying the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Museum. The museum, covering 16 hectares (40 acres), is located on the site of the America’s first railway depot and station. It is a tribute to the railroads and their huge influence in the settling of this massive country. The ‘B&O’ is actually the world’s oldest continuously operating railroad facility. The Annex is the place for visitors to begin, with its ‘America’s Great Road’ exhibit. From there, the huge Roundhouse (restored and dating from 1884), with its 37.5m-high (123ft) skylight, contains 130 exhibits, including some of the classic heritage trains. Delving into the history of the railroad brings the whole social and scientific fabric of America to life. For example, visitors gain an insight into slavery through the exhibit about Henry ‘Box’ Brown, who spent 25 hours incarcerated on a train. Other exhibits recreate various 1830s experiments in propulsion, using dogs, horses on treadmills, hand-powered cranks and even the ‘Hobus’ sail-powered carriage shaped like a boat. Samuel B Morse sent his first message to the Mount Clare Depot, located here, from Washington, DC, 64km (40 miles) away. Not only was the B&O the first railroad, it also suffered the first railroad workers’ union strike in 1840. Artwork of posters, early photographs and press cuttings are fascinating in themselves. Short 15- to 20-minute overview tours are available, as well as full guided tours, lasting 60-90 minutes. 901 West Pratt Street Tel: (410) 752 2490. Website: www.borail.org E-mail: feedback@borail.org Transport: Metro Subway Charles Center or Shot Tower Marketplace; Light Rail Convention Center station. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission: US$8 (concessions available). The High Flyer Visitors can rise to new heights at Baltimore’s newest attraction, the High Flyer. Although tethered to the ground by a steel cable, the huge helium-filled balloon rises over 137m (450 feet). From its enclosed gondola, passengers are able to enjoy fabulous views of the harbour. 35 Market Place Tel: (410) 727 8120. Website: http://marylandnightlife.com/hiflyer.htm Transport: MTA Bus 7, 10, 19 or 20; Metro Subway Shot Tower Marketplace. Opening hours: Sun-Wed 1000-2000, Thurs-Sat 1000-2400 (May-Sep), Sun-Wed 1200-2000, Thurs-Sat 1200-2400 (Sep-Oct), Sat-Sun 1200-2000 (Nov-Apr). Admission: US$12. Further Distractions Port Discovery, the Kid-Powered Museum Created by Walt Disney Imagineering, this unique museum is both fun and educational for the whole family. Some of its offerings include Kidworks, a three-story tree house, where kids climb, crawl and swing, and Adventure Expeditions, which recreates a trek to ancient Egypt. Visitors get to play detective at Miss Perception’s Mystery House, where every room is filled with clues as to the whereabouts of the Baffield Family. Other exhibits include Sensation Station, a sensory experience for four-year-old and younger tots, including arts and crafts, a TV studio and movable dinosaurs. 35 Market Place Tel: (410) 727 8120. Fax: (410) 727 3042. Website: www.portdiscovery.org Transport: MTA Bus 7, 10, 19 or 20; Metro Subway Shot Tower Marketplace. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1000-1700 (May-Sep); Fri-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700 (Sept), Tues-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700 (Oct-May). Admission: US$11; US$8.50 (children under 12 years); free (children under three years); concessions available. Lexington Market Open markets, such as Lexington Market, are the stuff of real life, with unusual characters, enjoyable smells and sights, the hubbub of commerce and the pleasures of people-watching – purchasing is purely optional but visitors should not be permitted to leave the market without sampling a Faidley crab cake. Lexington Market was established in 1782, on land donated by General John Eager Howard, a hero of the Revolutionary War. It quickly became a market for farmers, who sold directly from their wagons, since there were no streets at this time. As it gained popularity, other craftspeople and vendors joined the throng, so that this, the oldest farmers’ market in the USA, became more diversified. The building that visitors can see today, housing over 140 merchants, is the result of a fire in 1949. Lexington Market is closed on Sunday but weekend fever starts from around lunchtime on Friday, especially for happy hour at 1700. 400 West Lexington Street Tel: (410) 685 6169. E-mail: info@lexingtonmarket.com Website: www.lexingtonmarket.com Transport: Metro Subway Lexington Market; MTA Bus 15 or 23. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-1800. Admission: Free. Tours of the City Walking Tours Concierge Plus Inc (tel: (410) 580 0350; e-mail: info@baltimoreeventplanner.com; website: http://baltimoreeventplanner.com) offers walking and dine-around tours in historic Baltimore neighbourhoods, which are customised for groups of 15 people or more, with prices varying accordingly. The tours can be general tours of the city, taking in the major sights, or focus on specific districts, such as Little Italy, Inner Harbor and Annapolis, or aspects of the city, such as baseball. Tour prices start at approximately US$20 for a range of tour options that vary in length, between two hours to half a day. Departure points also vary depending upon the subject matter of the tour. Bus Tours With pick-up points available from hotels and often by arrangement at convenient locations, bus tours are a good way for visitors to discover the environs of Baltimore. Tours cover all aspects of the city’s history and scenery as well as specific literary subjects and African-American locations. Baltimore By Request (tel: (800) 666 3121; website: www.baltimorebyrequest.com) offer a variety of private tours. These take from between three hours to a full-day excursion travelling around the general and architectural sites of the city. Tours can be customised or can even include other destinations, such as Washington, DC or Annapolis. Prices start from US$225 for a minimum of five people or US$45 per person, plus admission fees and 10% gratuity. Baltimore Black Heritage Tours (tel: (410) 783 5469) highlight places that have shaped Black History. Prices can be from as little as US$5 per person, with tours lasting anything from one hour to two or three days. Water Tours A cruise of the harbour area and Chesapeake Bay itself is a key tourist attraction in its own right. Harbor Cruises (tel: (800) 695 2628 or (410) 727 3113; website: www.harborcruises.com) offers breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner or moonlight cruises around the harbour, on the Bay Lady or Lady Baltimore. A basic lunch cruise lasts two hours and costs US$27.50. The Clipper City (tel: (410) 539 6277; website: www.sailingship.com) offers two-hour tours around the harbour on a replica 1850s topsail schooner. These tours cost US$12. Both tours depart from the dock near Harborplace, Inner Harbor. Other Tours Visitors can explore the sites of the city aboard the WWII amphibious Discovery Channel Ducks (tel: (410) 727 3825; website: www.baltimoreducks.com). Departing from the intersection of Conway Street and Light Street, the 80-minute tour costs US$19 and covers the area’s most popular sites before plunging into the harbour for a watery view of the city. Excursions For a Half Day Ellicott City: First settled in the 1700s and tucked up against the steep hills, approximately 16km (ten miles) west of Baltimore, this is an old mill town on the banks of the Patapsco River. Ellicott City (website: www.oldmainline.com/ellicott) is a popular destination for people from Baltimore itself, offering a taste of small-town Maryland. As the original destination of the first railroad built out of Baltimore, Ellicott City has the distinction of being the first, non-depot railway station in the country and has been restored to its original appearance. Main Street is pleasing not only because of its granite buildings and mix of shops and restaurants but also because it is not laid out in a dead straight line, like so many American streets. Ellicott City can be reached via the Patapsco Valley State Park, driving southwards on the I-95 to junction 47. The Howard County Tourism Council, 8267 Main Street, Ellicott City (tel: (800) 288 8747 or (410) 313 1900; website: www.visithowardcounty.com) provides further information. For a Full Day Washington, DC: The country’s capital, of course, merits more than a cursory visit but, being only 56km (35 miles) from Baltimore, it is at least possible for a day tripper to get a feel for the city. The major sights to consider are the White House, Capitol Hill, the Smithsonian Institution Museums, the Washington Monument and the Memorials to Lincoln and Jefferson. To get a sense of the more bohemian side of the city, the Adams Morgan district, along 18th Street and Columbia Road is a good place for interested tourists to visit, especially for bookshops, restaurants, music shops, cafés and bars. MARC (tel: (800) 325 7245; website: www.mtamaryland.com) trains travel from Baltimore’s Penn and Camden stations to Washington, DC (journey time – 35 minutes), costing US$5.75. Tourist information is available from the Washington, DC Convention and Tourism Corporation (tel: (202) 789 7000; website: www.washington.org). Annapolis: Although much smaller than Baltimore, Annapolis, with a population of around 40,000, is not only the original and current capital of Maryland but also regarded as the sailing capital of the USA. Its 30km (17 miles) of waterfront, home to over 2500 watercraft, can be explored both from the water and on foot. The town has more original colonial-style homes than any other in the country, particularly along Duke of Gloucester, Prince George and Shipwright Streets. The State House, set upon the hill overlooking the city, is where George Washington resigned his commission as Commander-in-Chief of the Continental Army. It is home to the US Naval Academy and apart from museums, tours and its charismatic waterfront, Annapolis is a good base from which to explore the small towns and countryside on the opposite side of Chesapeake Bay, by taking the Memorial Bridge (northeast of the town). Annapolis is only about 40km (25 miles) from Baltimore, directly south along the I-97. The Historic Annapolis Foundation (tel: (410) 267 7619 or (800) 603 4020; fax: (410) 267 6189; website: www.annapolis.org) and the Annapolis and Anne Arundel County Convention & Visitors Bureau, 26 West Street, Annapolis (tel: (410) 280 0445; fax: (410) 263 9591; website: www.visit-annapolis.org) both provide information. Sport As the home of the legendary George Herman ‘Babe’ Ruth (1895-1948), it is not surprising to find that Baltimore takes it baseball seriously. The Orioles (website: www.theorioles.com) are the home team, with a new stadium complex at Oriole Park, Camden Yards, 333 West Camden Street (tel: (410) 685 9800). The season is from April to October. The home American Football team is The Ravens (Tel: (410) 547 8100; website: www.baltimoreravens.com), who play at brand-new PSINet Stadium, 200 St Paul Place, Camden Yards. The professional soccer team is the Baltimore Blast, 1801 South Clinton Street (tel: (410) 732 2285; website: www.baltimoreblast.com), in the American Conference league, while the Baltimore Bay Runners (tel: (410) 332 4667) are in the International Basketball League (IBL). The Baltimore Bayhawks, 100 West Padonia Road (tel: (410) 560 3511, website: www.baltimorebayhawks.com) is the city’s new professional lacrosse team. For those inclined to flutter on the horses, there is racing at the Pimlico Racecourse, Hayward and Winner Avenues (tel: (410) 542 9400; website: www.marylandracing.com) in the northeast of the town. Tickets to sporting events are available for purchase direct from the venues or online from Ticketmaster (tel: (410) 752 1200; website: www.ticketmaster.com). Bowling: There are several AMF Bowling Centers in the metropolitan area, including 6608 Ritchie Highway (tel: (410) 761 3800) and 4991 Fairview Avenue (tel: (410) 347 2400). Fitness centres: The major hotels in Baltimore have health clubs, gyms and swimming pools, while those that do not, often have associate membership with a nearby club for their guests. The Downtown Athletic Club, 210 East Centre Street (tel: (410) 332 0906) has racquetball, basketball, weight and fitness machines, aerobics, swimming pool and sauna. Entrance is US$20 for visitors with a hotel key. Harbor Nautilus, in the Hyatt Regency, 300 Light Street (tel: (410) 685 5115), has tennis courts, weight and fitness machines, a swimming pool, a seven-hole golf putting range and half-court basketball. Entrance is US$10 for non-members. Aerobics, weight training and fitness equipment in an all-female environment costs US$10 at Lynne Brick’s Women’s Heath & Fitness, 5911 York Road (tel: (410) 433 8200). Golf: A 25-minute drive southeast into the countryside is The Woodlands Golf Course, Ridge Road (tel: (410) 887 1349), which has been sculpted from heavily wooded parkland. Greystone, 2115 White Hall Road (tel: (410) 887 1945), is another good course, while others include Longview, 1 Cardigan Road, Timonium, and Diamond Ridge, 2309 Ridge Road. Only 20 minutes from the Inner Harbor, is the Waverly Woods Golf Club, 2100 Warwick Way, Marriottsville (tel: (410) 313 9182; fax: (410) 313 9168; website: www.waverlywoods.com). All these courses can be contacted through Baltimore County Revenue Authority (tel: (410) 887 4653; website: www.baltimoregolfing.com). Off-peak rates range from US$29 to US$45 and membership is not required, as these clubs are not private. Hiking: A general central contact point is the Maryland Department of Natural Resources (tel: (877) 620 8367; website: www.dnr.state.md.us/index.asp). Within an hour radius of Baltimore, there are many hiking trails in the various hills and parks. A particular variation on the hiking theme, in August-September, is Maize Quest (tel: (717) 382 4846; website: www.cornmaize.com/pa), a ‘Cornfield Maize Adventure’ through nearly two miles of cornfields in nearby Pennsylvania. Ice skating: There is an outdoor rink at the Inner Harbor during winter. Tennis: Public outdoor courts are dotted throughout the city’s various neighbourhoods and parks, such as Druid Hill Park, Madison Avenue, Druid Park Lake Drive (tel: (410) 396 7900). Facilities usually are free. Outdoor school courts throughout the USA are, by law, open to the public outside school hours. The Cross Keys Tennis Centre, 4 Harnill Road (tel: (410) 433 1800) provides indoor tennis courts at US$22-US$28 per hour. Some of the larger hotels also have facilities and equipment for hire. Shopping Shopping in Baltimore really brings to life the neighbourhood feel of the city. The most brazenly commercial and modern spot is the Inner Harbor, with its Gallery and Harborplace malls, full of the latest designer and brand-name shops. Each of the districts surrounding the harbour area has its shopping centres and specialities. In Mount Vernon, the renowned Antique Row, 700-800 North Howard Street, and 200-300 West Read Street, has 40 antique shops and 70 dealers. Shops are usually open Monday-Saturday 1100-1600. A little to the east of this, on Charles Street, are some small, individual shops, cafés and restaurants. Fells Point centres around Broadway Market, Broadway Street and Fleet Street. This specialist food market with stalls and shops occupies the oldest existing building in the city, dating from 1785. Around it are curio shops, galleries and bakeries. Little Italy, to the west of Broadway Market, has a similar but more upmarket feel to it. Broadway Market is only one of several open food and produce markets. The oldest of them all is Lexington Market, 400 West Lexington Street, just south of the Mount Vernon district (see Further Distractions). Other markets include Belair Market (on Gay Street and Fayette Street, just above the Inner Harbor), Cross Street Market (on Charles Street and Cross Street, Federal Hill), Hollins Market (on Hollins Street and Arlington Street, SoWeBo), Lafayette Market (on Pennsylvania Street and Laurens Street), the newest Northeast Market (on Monument Street and Chester Street) and the Downtown Farmer’s Market (under the Jones Falls Expressway, at Holiday Street and Saratoga Street). The markets play an important part in identifying the local colour and flavour of a district. Each market has its own character, characters and specialities. All markets are open Monday-Saturday – except Hollins, which is closed on Monday. Baltimore Public Markets (tel: (410) 276 9498) provides further information. Baltimore also has much to offer for individual shopping. Two good bookshops are Bibelot, Woodholme Centre, 1819 Reistertown Road, and Kelmscott Bookshop, 32-34 West 25th Street (tel: (410) 235 6810). Men’s tailoring is a speciality of Jos A Banks Clothiers, 100 East Pratt Street. For women’s clothing, there is the Village of Cross Keys, 5100 Falls Road, a shopping complex about ten kilometres (six miles) from Downtown with – among 40 other boutiques – specialists such as Ruth Shaw, Octavia and Jones and Jones. Also at the Cross Keys is Store Ltd, which sells a top-quality range of handcrafted jewellery, as well as special gift items such as stationery, kitchen gadgets and coffee table books. Another good place for unusual gift items is Crafts Concepts, Greenspring station, on Falls Road and Joppa Road. Shoppers in search of a city speciality should get hold of some Old Bay Spice (a local seasoning), seeing as Baltimore’s main treat, crab cakes, might prove difficult to export. There is a range of Old Bay souvenirs too. General shopping hours are 0830-1800, although many malls and large stores are open into the evening. Visiting shoppers should always retain receipts, as customs may ask to see that the 5% VAT has already been paid locally. Individual shops can provide tax and duty-free forms, allowing tax back on items upon departure from the USA. Culture The performing arts have a history as long and distinguished as Baltimore itself. The American national anthem was penned in these parts and, with the patronage of the highest members of American society, culture flourished in these parts. The central booking agency for most venues is Ticketmaster (tel: (410) 752 1200 or (800) 551 7328; website: www.ticketmaster.com). There is also Baltimore Tickets, at the Visitors Center, 451 Light Street (tel: (410) 752 8427). The magazine, Where, which lists cultural performance and events in Baltimore can often be found in hotels. There is also a monthly magazine, Baltimore Living, which lists events and offers dining suggestions, as well as an online source of information (website: www.baltimore.org). Concert Hotline (website: www.concerthotline.com) and the Baltimore Area Convention and Visitors Association, 100 Light Street, 12th Floor (tel: (410) 837 4636 or 659 7300 or (888) 225 8466; e-mail: vc@baltimore.org; website: www.baltimore.org) provides up-to-date information on cultural events. Music: The city’s main classical music venue is the Meyerhoff Symphony Hall, 1212 North Cathedral Street, Mount Vernon (tel: (410) 783 8000). The Music Director Designate of the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra (tel: (410) 783 8000; website: www.baltimoresymphony.org), Yuri Temirkanov, is not limited only by classical music, with a musical range from Marvin Hamlisch and Linda Ronstadt to jazz inspired events and Celtic celebrations on his agenda. The Lyric Opera House, 140 West Mount Royal Avenue (tel: (410) 685 0030), is nearby and the resident Baltimore Opera Company (tel: (410) 727-6000; website: www.baltimoreopera.com) is just starting its 50th season. The Peabody Conservatory of Music, 1 Mount Vernon Place (tel:(410) 659 8100; website: www.peabody.jhu.edu/cons), the oldest such school in the USA, often schedules free recitals and concerts. Theatre: Baltimore has numerous theatres spread across the Downtown area. At the Theatre Hopkins, a brick barn dating from 1804, located at Johns Hopkins University (tel: (410) 516 7159), British and Irish plays are regularly performed. Center Stage, at the State Theater of Maryland, 700 North Calvert Street (tel: (410) 685 3200), produces a wide theatrical range, from Shakespeare to Beckett. The Everyman Theatre, 1727 North Charles Street (tel: (410) 752 2208; website: www.everymantheatre.org) has its own resident company, performing ‘Off-Broadway’ plays in an intimate setting. The Vagabond Players, 806 South Broadway, Fells Point (tel: (410) 563 9135), perform modern classics to recent Broadway successes, such as Death of a Salesman (1949) and Blood Brothers (1983). At the Morris A Mechanic Theatre, 25 Hopkins Plaza (tel: (410) 625 4230), performances are non-profit making and cover drama, music and dance. Dinner-theatre is extremely popular in Baltimore. Programmes range from variety style to classic Broadway shows. Bobby B’s Palace, 2132 Turkey Point Road (tel: (410) 687 8838; website: www.aljolson.com), specialises in impersonations of great performers, such as Al Jolson. The town of Timonium is only a 15-minute drive from Downtown Baltimore and the country’s largest and very highly critically acclaimed Timonium Dinner Theatre, 9603 Deereco Road (tel: (410) 560 1113), is located here. The menu at this family-owned and operated establishment always includes some interesting homemade specialities. Dance: This is not covered by any separate company, and includes everything from classical to Broadway shows being staged at the various theatre and music venues (see above). Film: The Senator Theatre, 5904 York Road (tel: (410) 435 8338), was built during the golden age of Hollywood and is one of few surviving examples of a real neighbourhood movie theatre. As well plenty of ordinary cinemas showing the latest Hollywood releases, there a couple of specialist venues for arthouse releases. The Baltimore Museum of Art, Art Museum Drive (tel: (410) 396 7100), takes certain themes for its screenings, whereas the Enoch Pratt Free Library, 400 Cathedral Street (tel: (410) 396 5430), is broader in its programme range. Maryland has been the setting for many films, most recently including the Blair Witch Project (1999). Cultural events: In the last week of April, the Baltimore Waterfront Festival, uses life on the water as the focus for entertainment, music and events. Following this, over the first two weeks of June, is the Latino Fest (website: www.eblo.org), at Patterson Park, sponsored by EBLO (the Education-Based Latino Outreach). This summer period also sees the Harborplace Birthday Celebration, on 22 June, held in the Harborplace Amphitheatre (website: www.harborplace.com). The same venue hosts the annual Baltimore Fourth of July Celebration. The July Artscape Festival, Mount Royal Avenue (tel: (410) 396 4575; website: www.artscape.org), is a combination of the visual, literary and performing arts, held indoors and out, come rain or shine. The annual Baltimore Book Festival is held in Mount Vernon, in September. On the first Thursday of every month, along the Charles Street Corridor, is a merry mix of art, displays, exhibitions, talks and music, known appropriately as First Thursday (tel: (410) 244 1030). Literary Notes Over the last two centuries, Baltimore has been home to several well-known writers, as well as featuring in their work. Ironically, two of the most famous and most strongly associated with Baltimore stand on either side of the literary fence – Edgar Allan Poe (1809-1849) as writer and H L Mencken (1880-1956) as critic par excellence. Poe’s house, built around 1833, is now a museum, situated west of Lexington Market, 203 Amity Street. Poe’s grave is at the Westminster Cemetery and Catacombs, on the corner of Fayette Street and Greene Street. His monument was funded by pennies collected in the 1930s, by Baltimore schoolchildren. Mencken, ‘the sage of Baltimore’, was born in the city, studied at Baltimore Polytechnic and lived mostly at 1524 Hollins Street, Union Square. As a noted philologist, editor and satirist, he became most famous for his biting, perspicacious and profound work as a literary critic, having a huge influence on American writing in the 1920s after his major work, The American Language, was published in 1918. Francis Scott Key (1799-1843) became famous for his original poem, ‘The Defence of Fort McHenry’, which he wrote on witnessing, from a British man o’ war perspective, the American flag flying throughout the unsuccessful British siege of the city. The poem was later set to music by the English composer, John Stafford Smith (using the tune of ‘To Anacreon in Heaven’), and was adopted as the US national anthem, ‘The Star Spangled Banner’, in 1931. Much of the remainder of the town’s literary past centres on the Mount Vernon district, which also hosts the annual Book Fair in September. The Mount Vernon Place Methodist Church, at the corner of East Mount Vernon Place and South Washington Place, was built in 1873, on the site where Francis Scott Key died. There is a commemorative plaque on the outside of the church. Meanwhile, F Scott Fitzgerald’s wife, Zelda, was treated for mental illness at the Johns Hopkins University, during which time he stayed at the Stafford Hotel – now simply 716 North Washington Place. Fitzgerald (1896-1940) later moved to 1307 Park Avenue, where he finished Tender is the Night (1934). Dashiell Hammett (1894-1961), who invented the fictional stereotype of the ‘hard-boiled’ private detective, with such novels as The Maltese Falcon (1930), was born in nearby St Mary’s County. The Maltese Falcon was made into the classic 1941 film of the same name, directed by John Huston and starring Humphrey Bogart as the detective Sam Spade. There are numerous other writers who have an acquaintanceship with the city are. The master of the silly poem and snappy aphorism, Ogden Nash, moved with his wife from his hometown Rye, New York, to Rugby Road in Baltimore. For the last eight years of his life, Nash lived in Cross Keys, where he died in 1971. John Pendleton Kennedy, who lived at 12 Madison Street and was a best-selling novelist in the 1820s, was credited with inventing the idea of the genteel South. Pulitzer Prize-winner Upton Sinclair (1878-1968), was born in Baltimore, while Gertrude Stein (1874-1946) studied at Johns Hopkins University. Russell Baker, a columnist with the New York Times, based his Pulitzer Prize-winning autobiography Growing Up (1995) upon his boyhood in Baltimore. Novelist Anne Tyler features the oddities and quirkiness of modern-day Baltimore in her writings, such as The Accidental Tourist (1985). Nightlife As for so much in Baltimore, when looking for somewhere to eat, drink or dance, head initially for the waterfront districts – such as the Inner Harbor, Little Italy, Fells Point and Federal Hill, as well as the more upmarket area of Mount Vernon. With a combination of student clientele and prosperous businesspeople, this is a lively town, offering the full range of cuisine (the local speciality being seafood and crabs, in particular), music from jazz to rock and reggae to classical, and clubs reflecting sport, the gay scene, cigars and wine. If you are keen on the English equivalent of real ale and want to discover ‘real’ beer from specialist brewers, then find a brewpub and ask for ‘micro-brew’ beers. Dress code and admission prices are all very specific to the venue but it is always necessary carry some photo ID (identification) with you, as the minimum drinking age in Baltimore is 21 years. Bars and nightclubs tend to open 1100-0200, although some ‘underground’ clubs may close later. The average price of a drink is between US$2.50 and US$4 for a beer, depending on the venue. Tipping is always an unnecessarily stressful area, particularly for the British. The general rules are 15% for restaurant waitrons and bartenders. There are a number of publications providing nightlife listings and information. These include the daily newspaper, The Baltimore Sun (website: www.sunspot.net and www.baltimoresunevents.com), the free Baltimore Alternative, serving the gay community, Guest Informant, Guest Quick Guide Magazine and the monthly guide distributed through hotels, Where Baltimore Magazine. Information is also available online (website: www.baltimore.org/pages/nightlife). Bars: Many bars are also good places to eat, offering punters a casual atmosphere, such as Kooper’s Tavern, 1702 Thames Street, Fells Point. America is renowned for quantity and Max’s on Broadway, 737 South Broadway, Fells Point, boasts 68 rotating draught beers and 15 satellite receivers for the classic TV-lined American sports wallpaper. If you enjoy décor as much as food and drink, the Explorer’s Lounge, Harbor Court Hotel, Inner Harbor, has animal-print murals and furnishings, while the Brewer’s Art, 1106 North Charles Street, Midtown Area, has an Old-World dining room and a bar with magnificent pillars and chandeliers. The venue specialises in Belgian beers. If you are dying for a stylish smoke, go to the upmarket Havana Club, situated on the top floor of Ruth’s Chris Steak House, 600 Water Street. For micro-brews, a good starting point is the Capitol City Brewing Company, 301 Light Street, Inner Harbor. Always look out for ‘Happy Hour’ times, which vary around the town and can be strung together to make a half-price evening. For a locally patronised crab house, try OBrycki’s, 1727 East Pratt Street. Casinos: Commercial casinos are illegal in Baltimore – locals head about 45 minutes’ east to Dover, in the state of Delaware. Dover Downs, 1131 North DuPont Highway (website: www.doverdowns.com) is a massive entertainment complex, which includes a casino. The minimum age for entry is 21 years and ID is required. There is no dress code. Clubs: All types of dance can be experienced in Baltimore, from Latin American at the Latin Palace, 509 South Broadway, Fells Point, to 1950s and 60s rock ‘n’ roll at Bumper’s Dance Bar, Marriott Hotel, 110 South Eutaw Street. Bohager’s Bar & Grill, 701 South Eden Street, Fells Point, has live music, both indoors and outdoors, as well as a popular disco. Hurricane’s, Sheraton International Hotel, 7032 Elm Road, prides itself on covering the 1980s and 90s, although ‘proper dress’ is required. The Happy Hour Buffet actually lasts four hours, from 1600-2000. Live music: Away from the Inner Harbor area, Buddies Pub and Jazz Club, 313 North Charles Street, offers a local pub atmosphere with ‘Live Straight-Ahead Jazz’ at the weekends. The Harbor Cruises company, docked near Harborplace, Inner Harbor, offers the chance to dine and dance on water, while viewing the impressive, illuminated Baltimore skyline as you twirl. Many of the bars have different nights and styles of live music too, such as the Full Moon Saloon, 1710 Aliceanna Street, which features seven nights a week of blues music. The blues, with occasional alternative rock, makes the joint jump at 8x10, 10 East Cross Street. The Harbor Club @ Pier 5, 711 Eastern Avenue, Fells Point, promises to ‘blow you away’ with both its live dance music and its views of the harbour. City Statistics Location: Maryland (MD), mid-Atlantic coast, USA. Country dialling code: 1. Population: 651,154 (city); 2.53 million (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: Majority white American, with minorities including Hispanics, black American, American Indian and Asian-Pacific. Religion: Christian, covering many denominations including Catholic, Methodist, Jesuit and Greek Orthodox. Time zone: GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 110 volts AC, 50Hz; flat two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: 1.5ºC (35ºF). Average July temp: 24ºC (75ºF). Annual rainfall: 1061mm (41.8 inches). Special Events First Thursday, arts, displays, exhibitions, talks and music, first Thurs of every month, Charles Street Corridor Volvo Ocean Race Round The World, Apr, the waters of Baltimore and Annapolis Baltimore Waterfront Festival, entertainment, music and events, late Apr, along the waterfront Annual Baltimore Women’s Show, everything from fashion shows and image consulting to health screenings, career workshops and food sampling, first week of May, Maryland State Fairground, Timonium Preakness Celebration, parades, concerts, races on the water and balloon launches (website: www.preaknesscelebration.com), May, throughout the city Preakness Celebration Parade, floats, marching bands and clowns, May, Downtown Preakness Celebration Events, May, Harborplace and The Gallery Preakness Crab Derby, May, Lexington Market Preakness Derby, May, Pimlico Race Course Harborplace and The Gallery Summer Concert Series, featuring music of all kinds from rock to reggae to big bands (website: www.harborplace.com), May-Sep, Amphitheatre Maryland Regional Science Fiction Convention (website: www.balticon.org), Memorial Day weekend, May, Wyndham Harbor Hotel Latino Fest, cultural festival (website: www.eblo.org), first two weeks Jun, Patterson Park Annual Charles Village Parade, first week of Jun, Charles Village Maryland Rose Society Inc Annual Rose Show, Jun, Cylburn Arboretum, 4925 Greenspring Avenue Annual Ice Cream Festival, mid-Jun, Lexington Market Harborplace Birthday Celebration (website: www.harborplace.com), 22 Jun, Harborplace Amphitheatre, Inner Harbor Baltimore Fourth of July Celebration, 4 Jul, Harborplace Amphitheatre, Inner Harbor Artscape Festival (website: www.artscape.org), late Jul, Mount Royal Avenue Maryland State Fair, originally just a farmers’ markets, now also includes hundreds of stalls and a massive fun fair (website: www.marylandstatefair.com), last week Aug and first week Oct, Maryland State Fairground, Timonium Baltimore Book Festival, Sep, Mount Vernon Annual Chocolate Festival, 2nd week of Oct, Lexington Market Oktoberfest, food, drink and family fun, Oct, throughout the city, particularly Downtown Annual Fall Chrysanthemum Display, Nov, Conservatory and Botanic Gardens Baltimore Thanksgiving Day Parade, Nov, Pratt Street to Market Place Lighted Boat Parade, spectacular event with over 50 boats decorated and glinting in the dark, first week of Dec, Inner Harbor Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$1 33cl bottle of beer: US$1 Financial Times newspaper: US$1 36-exposure colour film: US$6.50 City-centre bus ticket: US$1.35 Adult American football ticket: US$31 Three-course meal with wine/beer: US$20 1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.63; C$1.51; A$1.67; €0.93 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.