Home > City Guide  - Barcelona
_City Overview Just decades ago, few tourists would have considered visiting the northern Spanish city of Barcelona. However, this once rather rundown industrial centre, which seemed to have little to offer, has undergone a seismic change that culminated in the hosting of the Olympic Games in 1992, an event which completely transformed Barcelona. As well as a string of purpose built sporting developments springing up all over the city – with the epicentre on the slopes of Montjuïc – Barcelona also benefited from major investments, which saw the face of the city dramatically transform. Barcelona has since become something of a Mecca for the world’s top architects, who have flocked here to conjure up an array of modern structures and avant-garde designs. Many have drawn their inspiration from the seminal work of Barcelona’s most famous son, the modernist architect, Antoni Gaudi, whose unique style can still be savoured in a number of key buildings around the city. His masterpiece is the unfinished Sagrada Familia cathedral but his work can be seen even in the lampposts and fountains of Plaça Reial. Fortunately, the rush of new construction has not completely dwarfed the older buildings, as the old and new architectural styles harmoniously combine. Barcelona is the kind of city where a contemporary glass and steel office block can rest happily within striking distance of a gothic cathedral, a city where the old port has been rejuvenated without losing any of its charm. As the capital of Catalunya, the city is also solidifying its position as a major regional economic power, tucked, as it is, strategically close to the French border and with a wide Mediterranean coastline. Its key industries include manufacture, textiles, electronics and tourism – in 2001, Catalunya received 10,115,516 visitors from a total of 49,519,408 throughout Spain. The economy of Barcelona has been steadily expanding during the past decade and although it contains just 4% of the Spanish population, the city contributes 8% to the country’s GDP. The locals are very aware of the city’s potential and a strong desire still remains among some to create an independent Catalan state with Barcelona at its helm, instead of the current Spanish set up, where Barcelona plays second fiddle in political terms to Madrid. Some observers believe that the desire for outright independence has waned since the death of General Franco and the granting of a greater deal of autonomy to the region. Nevertheless, in the bars and cafés of the city, the patriotic feelings still remain strong. Nowhere is this proud drive for greater self-determination more evocative than at Camp Nou, the home of Barcelona FC – one of Europe’s greatest football teams – when a capacity 120,000 crowd pulsates to a rousing victory over arch rivals Real Madrid. With a balmy year round climate – not too steamily hot in summer and with few genuinely cold days in winter – it is not surprising that Barcelona is attracting an increasing number of visitors. Indeed, with cheap air travel becoming more popular, Barcelona has entered the millennium as one of Europe’s most popular short break destinations. Language To all extents and purposes, Barcelona is a bilingual city. Castellano (Castilian Spanish) is the national language of Spain and is spoken throughout the country, but Català (Catalan) is used side by side with Castilian as the official language in Catalunya (Catalonia). Catalan was used in all spheres of life in the region until the decrees of the Nova Planta (1716) made Castilian the official language of Spain and banished Catalan from public life. The language survived in the vernacular, however, and according to official estimates there are currently more than ten million speakers of Catalan in Europe. In Spain, Catalan is spoken in Catalonia, Valencia (to the south), on the Balearic Islands and in some parts of Aragon and Murcia. It is also spoken by the people of Andorra, North Catalonia (in France) and in L’Alguer on the west side of Sardinia. Phrases Yes - Sí No - No Hello - Hola Goodbye - Adios Please - Por favor Thank you - Gracias My name is ... - Me llamo ... How are you? - Qué tal estás? I’m very well Estoy muy bien I feel ill Me siento mal How much does it cost? - Cuantó es? Do you speak English? - Habla inglés? I don’t understand - No entiendo Where is ...? - Dónde está ...? Entrance - Entrada Exit - Salida Danger - Peligro Open - Abierto Closed - Cerrado Toilets - Servicios Doctor - Médico Hotel - Hotel Restaurant - Restaurante Beer - Cerveza Wine - Vino Menu - Carta Today - Hoy Tomorrow - Mañana Monday - Lunes Tuesday - Martes Wednesday - Miércoles Thursday - Jueves Friday - Viernes Saturday - Sábado Sunday - Domingo One - Un / uno / una Two - Dos / dues Three - Tres Four - Cuatro Five - Cinco Six - Seis Seven - Siete Eight - Ocho Nine - Nieve Ten - Diez Twenty - Veinte Thirty - Treinta Forty - Cuarenta Fifty - Cincuenta Sixty - Sesenta Seventy - Setenta Eighty - Ochenta Ninety - Noventa One Hundred - Cien One Thousand - Mil Getting There By Air El Prat de Llobregat (BCN) Tel: (93) 298 3838. Fax: (93) 298 3737. E-mail: bcn.apedros@aena.es Website: www.aena.es The airport is 13km (eight miles) southwest of the city centre and has three terminals (A, B and C). There are daily direct flights between Barcelona and more than 30 international destinations – several further destinations are served by less frequent direct flights. In 1998, the airport was voted Europe’s best. The airport had 19.8 million passengers passing through in 2000 – a third runway and a new offloading area have been planned for 2006, to cater for the increasing volume of air traffic. Major airlines: Foreign airlines use terminal A. International flights run by Iberia (IB), the national domestic airline, usually use terminal B. Information on Iberia is available from Info-Iberia (tel: (90) 240 0500) or the travel office at Passeig de Gràcia 30 (tel: (93) 401 3384; e-mail: infoib@iberia.com; website: www.iberia.com). Other major domestic and international carriers include Air France, American Airlines, British Airways, Delta, EasyJet, Iberia, Go, KLM, Lufthansa, SAS, Spanair and Virgin Airlines Approximate flight times to Barcelona: From London is 2 hours; from New York is 7 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 13 hours 5 minutes; from Toronto is 14 hours 10 minutes; and from Sydney is 25 hours 15 minutes. Airport facilities: Banco Exterior de Espana and La Caixa (terminals A and B) are open daily 0700-2300. Bureaux de change (terminals A and B) are open 0700-2300. Car hire services are available from Atesa, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz and National Car Rental. Other facilities include tourist information desks (tel: (93) 478 4704), a hotel information desk (terminals A and B), duty-free shopping (terminals A and B), left luggage (terminal B), post office (terminal C – open mornings only), shops, restaurants and bars. Terminal B has a chemist and 24-hour medical facilities. Business facilities: There is a business centre (tel: (93) 298 3815; fax (93) 478 6505), located on the first floor of terminal B, open Monday to Friday 0830-2030. Rooms can be hired for meetings. Telephone, fax, photocopying and computing services are available. Air France, British Airways and Iberia all have VIP rooms at the airport. Arrival/departure tax: Included in the price of the ticket. Transport to the city: A RENFE (tel: (902) 240 202; website: www.renfe.es) train leaves the airport for the city centre every 30 minutes 0600-2200, stopping at Central-Sants (journey time – 15 minutes), Plaça de Catalunya (journey time – 20-25 minutes) and Arc de Triomf and Clot-Aragó for connections to the metro. The fare is €3.00. An Aerobús service (tel: (93) 223 5151; e-mail: info@emt-amb.com; website: www.emt-amb.com) runs to Plaça de Catalunya via Gran Via every 15 minutes, weekdays 0600-2400, and every 30 minutes, weekends 0630-2400 (journey time – 15-30 minutes). The fare is €3.50 and can be paid by credit card. Local buses also run to Plaça d’Espanya. They cost €1, with the last bus at 0240. Taxis to and from the airport charge a minimum of €10. The ride to a downtown hotel may cost up to €20, including a €2 airport supplement. Taxi ranks are located outside the terminals. Getting There By Water Located close to the city centre, the Port de Barcelona (tel: (93) 306 8800 or 443 1300; website: www.apb.es), run by Autoritat Portuària de Barcelona (tel: (93) 298 2100), is re-establishing its status as one of the major Mediterranean maritime destinations. In addition to being an important cargo port, it is the second Mediterranean cruise centre after Athens and handled 447 cruises and 446,268 passengers in 1998. Crueurs del Porte de Barcelona(tel: (93) 306 8800), runs four cruise ship terminals – two at Moll Adossat and two at the World Trade Centre – and the Autoritat Portuària de Barcelona (tel: (93) 298 2100), runs the Port Vell Terminal. All the terminals have tourist information centres, travel agencies, a flight connection service, bureaux de change, first-aid facilities, duty-free and souvenir shops, bars, restaurants and international newspaper stands. Taxis and shuttle buses provide transportation to the city centre. Parking and car hire services are also available. Ferry services: For ferries to Mallorca, Menorca and Ibiza, the Estació Marítima Balears (Balearic Maritime Station) is located at Moll de Sant Bertran 3 (tel: (93) 295 9100). The nearest metro stop is Drassanes (line 3). Trasmediterránea (tel: (90) 245 4645; fax: (93) 295 9135; e-mail: correom@trasmediterranea.es; website: www.trasmediterranea.es), runs ferries to Palma, Mahon and Ibiza on the Balearic Islands. Single fares range from €25.50 for the standard ferry. They also operate a fast ferry service between Barcelona and Palma. Transport to the city: The TMB (tel: (93) 298 7000; website: www.tmb.net) metro links the port to the centre of Barcelona. Getting There By Road Motorways (Autopista) are prefixed by the letter ‘A’, while highways (Autovía) and other major roads (Carretera Nacional) are indicated by either two Roman numerals or, more commonly, three digits. Many motorways have tolls. Rates are shown at tollbooths and payment must be made in Euro – cash is preferred, although major credit cards may also be accepted. Traffic drives on the right. No person under 18 years may hire or ride a vehicle over 75cc. Seatbelts are compulsory for front-seat passengers in cars. Crash helmets must be worn on motorcycles. After sunset, sidelights must be used at all times – spare bulbs and red hazard triangles must be kept in all vehicles. The speed limit for cars and motorcycles is 120kph (74mph) on motorways, 100kph (62mph) on dual carriageways, 90kph (56mph) on roads outside built-up areas and 50kph (31mph) within towns. Fines for traffic offences are strictly enforced. The legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%. Foreign visitors require a valid driving licence to drive in Spain. National licences from EU countries are accepted, although nationals of other countries, including the USA, Canada and Australia, are advised to obtain an International Driving Permit. Third Party Insurance is required and documents should be carried at all times. A Green Card is strongly recommended for all visitors and is compulsory for those from outside the EU. Driving can be quite daunting, especially at rush hour – early morning, lunchtime and early evening – or on the fast multilane avenues in the city centre. A detailed map is a necessity for managing the complicated one-way system and it is advisable for visitors to plan their routes in advance. Breakdown services and motoring information can be obtained from the Real Automobile Club de Catalunya (RACC), Avenida Diagonal (tel: (93) 448 6215 or 449 3226). Ruta Catalunya (tel: (93) 228 5000; fax: (93) 889 0919), provide specific information on driving in Catalonia. Emergency breakdown services: RACC (93) 495 5058 (24-hour line). Alternatively drivers should contact the Ayuda en Carretera, run by the Guardia Civil, via the roadside SOS telephones located on both sides of the carriageway at two-kilometre (one-and-a-quarter mile) intervals. Routes to the city: The A7 motorway is the main route to Barcelona from France and runs down the coast past Valencia, as far as Alicante to the south. The A2 heads inland to the west for Zaragoza and connections to Madrid. The A19 hugs the coast for a short distance to the northeast of the city. Approximate driving times to Barcelona: From Zaragoza – 3 hours 13 minutes; Valencia – 3 hours; Madrid – 5 hours 30 minutes. Coach services: Eurolines international coach services (website: www.eurolines.es) use Estació Autobuses de Sants, next to the Central-Sants train station, Carrer Viriato (tel: (93) 490 4000), although services to France also stop at Estació del Nord, Avinguda Vilanova (tel: (93) 265 6508). Most long-distance coaches from other parts of Spain operate from the Estació del Nord. There are Eurolines services to many major European cities, including Amsterdam, Frankfurt, London, Prague and Rome. Getting There By Rail RENFE (tel: (902) 240 202, for 24-hour information; website: www.renfe.es), runs the Spanish rail network, which radiates from Madrid to all the major cities. There are also transversal routes and services running from the French border along the Mediterranean coast. Some of the services are swifter and more reliable than others. The ones to avoid are tranvía, semidirecto and correo trains, all of which chug along at a leisurely pace. Seat reservations are required on all intercity trains. Supplements are payable on many faster trains, even for those holding Interail and Eurail passes, although the amount is generally worth paying for a more efficient service. Estació Central-Sants, Plaça del Païses Catalans (tel: (93) 495 6215), is the city’s main station, serving national and international destinations as well as suburban routes. Facilities in the station building include tourist information, hotel information, left luggage, a bank offering currency exchange (open daily 0800-2200), a restaurant and cafeteria, shops, a first-aid point, showers, lockers and secure parking. Another railway station, Estació de França, offers mainly southbound regional services. On some train routes an alternative to both these stations is Passeig de Gràcia station, located close to Plaça de Catalunya and La Rambla. Rail services: There are direct trains to Barcelona from Paris (journey time – 11 hours 15 minutes), Montpellier (journey time – 4 hours 33 minutes), Milan (journey time – 13 hours 13 minutes) and Zurich (journey time – 13 hours). There are eight daily departures to Madrid (journey time – 8 hours), including three sleeper services. A new high-speed rail service linking Barcelona with Madrid and destinations in France is planned for 2004. Transport to the city: Central-Sants is some way from the city centre but is located at the junction of two TMB (tel: (93) 298 7000; website: www.tmb.net) metro lines – the green line (3) and the blue line (5). Estació de França, is situated near the Barceloneta metro stop, while Passeig de Gràcia station is located at the junction of three metro lines – the purple line (2), the green line (3) and the yellow line (4). Getting Around Public Transport With the exception of one metro line, transport in the city is operated by TMB (tel: (93) 318 70 74; website: www.tmb.net/eng/menu.htm). There are TMB information offices in the foyer of the Universitat metro station, open Monday to Friday 0800-2000. There are also offices at Diagnol, Sants Estacio and Sagrada Familia metro stations. Regional rail services and the purple metro line are operated by Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya (FGC) (tel: (93) 205 1515; website: www.fgc.catalunya.net). The information office, located in the Catalunya metro station, is open September to July, Monday to Friday 0700-2100 and in August, Monday to Friday 0800-2000. Apart from during the rush hour (0730-0930 and 1800-2030) when it becomes very crowded, the metro (M) is the most efficient means of transport in the city. Metro lines are all identified by a number and a colour; the direction is shown by the name of the line terminus. A single ticket (billet senzill) costs Pta160 and must be validated in a machine on the platform before boarding and carried at all times to avoid the Pta5000 penalty. The metro runs from Monday to Thursday 0500-2300, Friday and Saturday until 0200 and Sunday 0600-2400. The FGC line is fully integrated with the rest of the TMB-operated metro system and runs daily until 0130. Buses in the city run from 0530 or 0600 until about 2230. The network is extensive and almost all services run through Plaça de Catalunya, Plaça Urquinaona or Plaça de la Universitat. Single tickets cost Pta160 and must be clipped in machines on boarding. There are 16 night bus routes running 2300-0400 to some destinations, which require separate tickets. The TombBus is a shopping service that runs between Plaça de Catalunya and Plaça Pius XII Monday to Friday 0800-2130 and Saturday 0900-2130. A single ticket costs Pta180. A number of multi-ride tickets (T-10 and T-50/30), which cost Pta885-Pta3700 depending on validity period, modes of transport and changes permitted, and one-day (Pta670), three-day (Pta1700), five-day (Pta2600) and monthly (Pta5825) passes are available. In addition, for tourists, there are three-day (Pta1900) and five-day (Pta2400) Aerobus+Metro+Bus passes which cover all transport in the city including the journey to and from the airport. For the suburbs and surrounding area there are regional rail lines run by the FGC and RENFE. The RENFE local network is known as Rodalies or Cercanías; the central station in the city is Plaça de Catalunya. A funicular railway trundles up Montjuïc from the corner of Carrer Nou de la Rambla and Avinguda Parallel to Avinguda Miramar 1100-2200 daily in summer and 1100-2015 daily in winter (Pta275 – single; Pta400 – return). From the amusement park there is a cable car (telefèric) to Montjuïc Castle summer daily 1200-2000 and winter Saturday and Sunday 1100-1930, it costs Pta500 single and Pta700 return. Taxis There are 11,000 yellow-and-black registered cabs operating in the city. As well as being hailed on the street, taxis can be booked in advance (tel: (93) 358 1111). The basic charge is Pta300, which should show on the meter; each kilometre is charged at Pta92-107. A Pta100 supplement is charged for each piece of large luggage. Taxi drivers should be tipped 5-10% of the meter fare. Limousines A number of companies offer limousine services with multi-lingual drivers. These include Barcelona Limousine Service (tel: (93) 247 0699; fax: (93) 265 1484; bcnlimousine@spain-bcnlimo.com; www.spain-bcnlimo.com), who charge from Pta42,000 for eight hours and Limousine Rental (tel: (93) 372 0000; fax (93) 473 6077; e-mail: central@limorent.com; website: www.limorent.com), who charge from Pta6,900 for airport transfers and Pta30,000-Pta68,000 for a full day. Driving in the City The proximity of the main attractions and the excellent public transport system mean visitors will not need a car to get around the city. This is an advantage, as rush-hour traffic in Barcelona can be particularly overwhelming and parking is tricky in some areas. Cars require a paid ticket to park in the ‘blue’ zones daily 0800-1400 and 1600-2000. Illegal parking results in the offending vehicle being towed away. Parking costs from Pta220-Pta350 per hour to Pta3,250 per day. Car Hire Cars can be hired by drivers from overseas aged 21 years and above on presentation of a passport and a valid driving licence. A valid international insurance policy is also necessary although this can be purchased at the time of hire. In addition to companies at the airport, car hire in Barcelona is provided by Avis, Carrer Casanovas 209 (tel: (93) 209 9533; website: www.avis.com); and Hertz, Carrer Tuset 10 (tel: (93) 217 3248; website: www.hertz.com). Hire of a small car costs from Pta9,300 a day and from Pta60,000 a week. Bicycle Hire Barcelona has a limited network of bicycle lanes and some bicycle racks. Bicycles can be carried on the public transport system, although there are some peak hour restrictions. Bicycles can be hired at Scenic, Carrer Marina 22 (tel: (93) 221 1666; e-mail: scenic@ctb.es; website: www.scenic.es), Un Coxte Menys, Esparteria 3 (tel: (93) 268 2105) and Biciclot, Sant Joan de Malta 1 (tel: (93) 307 7475). Hire charges start at around Pta3,000 a day and additional ID is required. Business Business Profile In business terms, Barcelona is on the up and up. Over the last decade, the city has fully utilised its potential as the gateway between Iberia and the rest of Western Europe – a theme that Barcelona is pushing more than ever in the new millennium. The city is now re-establishing its role as a major Mediterranean port that can compete with the likes of Marseilles and Genoa, thanks in part to the recent Spanish Ports Law, which gave more independent control to the Autoritat Portuària de Barcelona. Barcelona is one of the largest industrial centres of Spain, with a strong background in manufacturing based on textiles and a large motor industry – Nissan and Seat have vehicle production plants in the city. Consumer electronics and chemical and pharmaceutical research are other major industrial sectors and the city is also strong in design, publishing and advertising. Although Barcelona has a stock market and a bond derivatives market it has failed to emerge as a major financial or banking centre to rival Madrid. It is, however, the country’s major convention and trade fair centre, with impressive facilities including Montjuïc 1 and 2, Avenida Reina M.Crisina (tel: (93) 233 2000; fax: (93) 233 2001), which catered for over 2.24 million visitors in 2000, as well as the state-of-the-art World Trade Center (tel: (93) 508 8000; fax: (93) 508 8010) at Port Vell. The coming of the Olympic Games in 1992 was a pivotal event in business terms, as it provided the impetus and investment necessary to improve the infrastructure of the city through 8 billion Dollars of investment. The Games’ massive marketing project successfully promoted the city as an efficient, business-like centre and initiated a massive surge of investment in the hotel and tourism sector. In 1998 alone, a quarter of all foreign investment in Spain flowed into Barcelona. The city’s economy has been steadily growing over the past decade, reflected in an Arthur Andersen study for Fortune magazine in 2000, which ranked Barcelona’s economic progress third among cities of the world. Today, around 45% of all foreign visitors come to Barcelona on business. The number of tourists visiting the city has risen too, from 1.7 million in 1990 to over 3.1 million in 2001. Barcelona’s unemployment rate, standing at 6% in 2000, is considerably lower than Spain’s unemployment rate, which rose from around 9% in 2000 to 12.9% in 2002. The Barcelona Chamber of Commerce is located at Avenida Diagonal (tel: (902) 448 448; website: www.cambrabcn.es). Business Etiquette The business community in Barcelona is used to hosting foreign visitors and many international business people speak English or French. Catalan is used in a business setting among native speakers, otherwise Castilian Spanish is used. Business hours are generally 0800 or 0900 until 1800 or 1900, with an extended lunch break between 1330 and 1500 or 1600. These hours may vary depending on the size and type of organisation. Punctuality is important. Formal wear is the norm and both men and women should wear a suit for business meetings – men should also wear a tie. Business cards should be exchanged after introduction. All Spaniards have two family names – only the first is used in conversation but any academic or professional titles should be acknowledged. Invites to homes are not common and clients or business associates tend to be invited out, usually to pre-dinner drinks and tapas or to dinner. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Barcelona is neatly framed by the Mediterranean to the east and the hills of Montjuïc and Tibidabo on two of its other flanks. The central section of the city, where most tourists spend their time, is even more conveniently divided by La Rambla – the main artery of Barcelona life, which tumbles from Plaça de Catalunya southeast towards the Mediterranean and the recently reborn districts of Port Vell (Old Port) – and trendy La Ribera (The Waterfront). The atmospheric Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter), the area to the right of La Rambla, heading in the direction of Plaça de Catalunya, is the charming heart of the old city, embracing the Catedral de la Seu and Museu Picasso amid narrow streets and hidden squares. Plaça de Catalunya divides the old town from the Eixample – a grid of streets laid out in the 19th century, in which much of the city’s finest Modernist architecture is to be found, including the celebrated Sagrada Família, a marvel of design by Antoní Gaudi. An eccentric recluse, Gaudí was the most celebrated practitioner of the Modernist style, whose innovative work threw all design rulebooks out of the window in his quest to get architecture to mirror the curves and intricacies of nature. In addition to those sights described in Key Attractions, further architectural highlights include Hospital de la Santa Creu I Sant Pau and the Palau de la Música Catalana both designed by Gaudí’s contemporary, Domènech i Montaner. Passeig de Gràcia, the most stylish street in the city, is at the heart of the Eixample and intersects with the Diagonal – the city’s main thoroughfare, at its northern end. The Montjuïc mountainside has successfully managed the transition from being the site of the 1992 Olympic Games to become a permanent tourist attraction, boasting the remaining Olympic installations, such noteworthy museums as Fundació Joan Miró and the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, as well as great views of the city. Tourist Information Centre d’Informació Turisme de Barcelona Plaça de Catalunya 17S Tel: (906) 301 282 (within Spain) or (93) 368 9730 (international). Fax: (93) 348 9735. E-mail: teltur@barcelonaturisme.com Website: www.barcelonaturisme.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-2100. Other information desks can be found at the airport, at Central-Sants station and in the City Hall on Plaça Sant Jaume. Passes The Barcelona Card offers discounts of up to 50% at many of the most interesting tourist attractions, including museums, entertainment and leisure venues, shops and restaurants, as well as free public transport and assistance insurance. The card is available for 24, 48 or 72 hours for €16.50, €19.50 and €22.50 respectively, from the main tourist offices at Plaça de Catalunya, Plaça Sant Jaume and Central-Sants station. The Ruta Modernista pass allows admission to all the best of the city’s modernista architecture (see Tours of the City). The pass costs €3.50 (concessions are available) and is available from Casa Lleó Morera, Passeig de Gràcia 35, Monday to Saturday 1000-1900 and Sundays 1000-1400. Key Attractions Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia (Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family) Gaudí’s unfinished masterpiece and the city’s most outlandish landmark, the Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family, towers crazily above the grid-like streets of the Eixample. Despite being very much a building site, the cathedral has a certain beauty that somehow emerges, despite the omnipresent construction. However, it remains the subject of continual controversy over who should pay for its completion. The extraordinary structure has elicited cries of astonishment, awe, amusement and anger from visitors and residents alike, although it remains one of the city’s most visited attractions. Carrer de Mallorca. Tel: (93) 207 3031. Fax: (93) 476 1010. E-mail: sagfam@grupart.es Website: www.sagradafamilia.org Transport: Metro Sagrada Familia. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (Nov-Feb); daily 0900-1900 (Mar, Sep and Oct); daily 0900-2000 (Apr-Aug). Admission: €5. Museu Picasso (Picasso Museum) The Picasso Museum is the one of the city’s main tourist attractions, housed in two 15th-century palaces close to the Parc de la Ciutadella. The impressive permanent collection is devoted to the artist’s early work, including a large number of childhood sketches, paintings from the Blue period (1901-1904) and the Pink period (1907-1920), exhibition posters, ceramics and cubist works. There are also two exhibition spaces for temporary exhibitions. Carrer Montcada 15-23 Tel: (93) 319 6310. Fax: (93) 315 0102. E-mail: mpicasso@intercom.es Website: www.museupicasso.bcn.es Transport: Metro Jaume I. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-2000 and Sun 1000-1500. Admission: €5. La Rambla La Rambla is not one street but rather a seamless series of pedestrian avenues stretching from the Monument a Colom on the waterfront to Plaça de Catalunya in the centre of the city. La Rambla has the same place in the psyche of the city as the Champs Elysées in Paris or Oxford Street in London does, although is far less snooty than the former and far more attractive than the latter. Lined with trees, cafés, restaurants, flower stalls, shops and newspaper stands, La Rambla is the perfect place in which to stroll and soak up the unique Barcelona atmosphere. Attractions along the way include Gaudí’s first major architectural project, Palau Güell (Güell Palace). Plaça Reial, just off La Rambla, is one of the most attractive squares in the city – elegant 19th-century houses look down on palm trees, lampposts designed by Gaudí, and an eclectic mix of people enjoying the lively atmosphere at outdoor cafés. Some of La Rambla’s most captivating attractions are its famous street entertainers who delight the crowds with their weird and wacky shows. Other points of interest are the Gran Teatre del Liceu and the legendary Café de L’Opera opposite, and La Boqueria, Barcelona’s wonderful, bustling food market. La Rambla Transport: Metro Liceo or Drassenes; bus 14, 38, 59 or 91. Palau Güell Carrer Nou de la Rambla 3-5 Tel: (93) 317 3974 Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1800. Admission: €2.50. Gran Teatre del Liceu La Rambla 51-59 Tel: (93) 485 9900 (information) or (902) 332 211 (booking). Website: www.liceubarcelona.com Opening hours: Performances daily 1700 and/or 2030 (varies). Admission: €15.75-1425.50 (for performances). La Boqueria Rambla Sant Josep Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0800-2000. Admission: Free. Parc Güell (Güell Park) With Parc Güell, Gaudí created a fantasy land that seamlessly combines the natural and the man-made, as well as offers good views over the city. The park – originally conceived as a garden city – covers a hill to the north of the centre. The gardens are enlivened by fantastic pavilions, stairways, columned halls and an organic plaza decorated with stunning broken-mosaic work (trencadís) by Gaudí’s assistant, Josep Maria Jujol. At the base of the hill is a house designed by Francesc Berenguer, which is now home to a collection of Gaudí’s furnishings and other memorabilia. Carrer d’Olot Tel: (93) 424 3809. Transport: Metro Vallcarca/Lesseps. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (Oct-Jun); daily 1000-1900 (Jul-Sep). Admission: Free. Casa Milá Casa Milá, also known as La Pedrera (the stone quarry), is an undulating apartment block on the corner of Passeig de Gràcia. The building, inspired by the ocean, is an incredible testament to Gaudí’s ability to make stone malleable. Apartments – which are not open to the public – are arranged around elliptical patios with no square corners in sight. The roof terrace is watched over by sentry-like chimneys and offers an excellent view across the city to the spires of La Sagrada Familia. The loft space of Casa Milá houses a beautiful museum, Espai Gaudí, dedicated to the architect. Passeig de Gràcia 92/Carrer Provenca 261-265 Tel: (93) 484 5900. Transport: Metro FGC Diagonal/Provenca. Opening hours: Daily 1000-2000; guided tours Mon-Fri 1730. Admission: €6; concessions available. Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) The maze of streets known as the Barri Gòtic or Gothic Quarter contains an exemplary collection of Gothic buildings dating from Catalonia’s Golden Age, in the 14th and 15th centuries, interspersed with Roman ruins, delightful squares and numerous bars and restaurants. Plaça Sant Jaume, at the heart of the district, is the epicentre of the city’s political life. The square is overlooked on one side by the Renaissance-style Palau de la Generalitat – location of the Catalan government – and, on the other, by the Ajuntament (town hall). Nearby, the Palau Real on Plaça del Rei houses the Museu d’Història de la Ciutat. The remains of the Roman city of Barcino, beneath the palace, were uncovered in 1931 and Roman streets are still visible in the vast cellar space that stretches as far as the Cathedral. The museum admission fee gives access to the cellar and to a number of beautiful medieval buildings. Museu d’Història de la Ciutat Plaça del Rei Tel: (93) 315 1111. Transport: Metro Jaume I. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1400 and 1600-2000 and Sun 1000-1400 (Oct-Jun); Tues-Sat 1000-2000 and Sun 1000-1400 (Jul-Sep). Admission: €3.50; concessions available. Catedral de la Seu Catedral de la Seu was built between the 13th and 15th centuries, on the site of an earlier basilica, although the spire and façade were not added until the beginning of the 20th century. Highlights include the carved choir stalls, the Capella de Lepanto and the tranquil cloisters containing a pond of white geese. Plaça de la Seu Tel: (93) 315 1554. Fax: (93) 315 3555. Transport: Metro Liceu or Jaume I. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1300 and 1500-1900. Admission: Free. Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya – MNAC (National Museum of Catalonian Art) The Palau Nacional, on Montjuïc, was the focus of Barcelona’s International Fair in 1929 and now houses the National Museum of Catalonian Art. The museum boasts a stunning collection of Gothic, Romanesque and Medieval treasures and religious artefacts. The most impressive approach to the Palace is up Avinguda de La Reina Maria Cristina, from Plaça Espanya – the Avinguda is lined with fountains that are floodlit at night. Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuïc Tel: (93) 622 0375. Fax: (93) 622 0374. Transport: Metro or FGC Espanya. Opening hours: Mon-Wed and Fri-Sat 1000-1900; Thurs 1000-2100 and Sun 1000-1430. Admission: €5. Fundació Joan Miró (Joan Miró Foundation) Also on Montjüic, the Joan Miró Foundation is one of the most innovative galleries in the city. The foundation was a gift from the artist himself and houses a permanent collection of his paintings, graphics and sculptures. Parc de Montjuïc Tel: (93) 443 9479. Fax: (93) 329 8609. E-mail: fjmiro@bcn.fjmiro.es Website: www.bcn.fjmiro.es Transport: Metro Parallel, then funicular to Parc de Montjuïc. Opening hours: Tues-Wed and Fri-Sat 1000-1900, Thurs 1000-2130 and Sun 1000-1430 (Oct-Jun); Tues-Sat 1000-2000 and Sun 1000-1430 (Jul-Sep). Admission: €7; concessions available. Mançana de la Discòrdia (Block of Discord) A series of extraordinary houses by Montaner, Gaudí and Puig i Cadafalch comprise the Mançana de la Discòrdia (Block of Discord) on the Passeig de Grácia, between Aragó and Consell de Cent. Gaudí’s Casa Batlló, at number 43, looks rather like an underwater grotto, with blue-green tiles on the façade, frog-faced balconies and a reptilian roof. Together they form part of the Ruta Modernista (see Tours of the City). Information and passes for this architectural tour can be obtained from the first floor of Casa Lléo Morera at number 35. Regrettably, the interiors of all three houses are closed to the public. However Ruta Modernista pass-holders are permitted onto the roof of Casa Batlló. Passeig de Grácia Transport: Metro lines 2 (purple), 3 (green) and 4 (yellow). Santa Maria del Mar Santa Maria del Mar is counted among the most beautiful churches in the city and is considered a prime example of Mediterranean Gothic architecture. It is located just to the northeast of the Barri Gòtic, at the heart of the newly fashionable La Ribera district. A 15th-century rose window adds colour to the simple harmony of the columned interior. Plaça de Santa Maria Tel: (93) 310 2390. Transport: Metro Jaume I or Barceloneta. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1330 and 1630-2000. Admission: Free. Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona – MACBA (Museum of Contemporary Arts) Looking rather incongruous in the down-at-heel surroundings of the Raval district, to the west of La Rambla, the brilliant-white Museum of Contemporary Arts is at the forefront of efforts to regenerate this traditionally seedy area of the city. The museum opened amid a blaze of publicity in 1995 and houses a permanent collection of post-1940s international art and various temporary exhibitions. Plaça dels Àngels 1 Tel: (93) 412 0810. Fax: (93) 412 4602. E-mail: macaba@macaba.es Website: www.macba.es Transport: Metro FGC Plaça de Catalunya. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1100-1930, Sat 1000-2000 and Sun 1000-1500 (winter); Mon, Wed and Fri 1100-2000, Tues 1100-1930, Thurs 1100-2100, Sat 1000-2000 and Sun 1000-1500 (summer). Admission: €5; concessions available. The Waterfront A stroll along the harbourside passeig and wooden walkway is an excellent way to see some of the results of Barcelona’s epic regeneration programme. The focus of interest and activity in Barcelona is shifting back towards the sea, with the continued development of Port Vell (Old Port). The waterfront now boasts a myriad of eateries and bars, a vast shopping mall and leisure centre (Maremagnum) and an excellent aquarium. Barceloneta, the old fisherman’s quarter, which dates from 1755, still has some of the best fish restaurants in the city and is now also the gateway to Barcelona’s cleaned-up beaches. Further to the east, the Vila Olímpica at Poble Nou, created for the 1992 Games, is one of the liveliest and most interesting areas of the city during the warmer months, although it is often deserted during winter. Passeig de Colom Transport: Metro line 4 (yellow) to Barceloneta or Ciutadella-Vila Olímpica. Further Distractions Montjuïc (Mountain of the Jews) The hill of Montjuïc (Mountain of the Jews) has enough attractions to fill several days and was the main location of the 1992 Olympic Games. In addition to the Palau Nacional and the Fundació Joan Miró, visitors may also want to explore the Estadi Olìmpic and the accompanying museum, the Museu Arqueològic, the replica Spanish village (Poble Espanyol) or the Pavellò Barcelona, created by architect Mies van der Rohe, for the 1929 Exhibition. Other attractions include Castell de Montjuïc – an 18th-century fortress – and an amusement park. Half the fun is the funicular ride up the mountainside and the outstanding views from the top. Montjuïc Transport: Metro FGC Plaça Espanya, then bus 50; metro Parallel, then funicular; bus 55 from Plaça de Catalunya. Reials Drassanes and Museu Marítim (Royal Shipyard and Maritime Museum) The Maritime Museum harks back to Barcelona’s seafaring past, with a staggering number of nautical exhibits, including a map by Amerigo Vespucci. The museum is housed in the magnificent Reiales Drassanes (Royal Shipyards), which date from the 13th century. Avinguda de les Drassanes. Tel: (93) 342 9920. Transport: Metro Drassanes. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1900. Admission: €5.50. Tours of the City Official guides can be hired from the Barcelona Guide Bureau, Via Laietana 54 (tel: (93) 268 2422 or 310 7778; fax: (93) 268 2211; e-mail: bgb@bgb.es; website: www.bgb.es). Guides charge €150-€179, depending on the language required, for up to four hours Monday to Friday, increasing to between €175-€204 at weekends. Walking Tours La Ruta Modernista links 50 key Art Nouveau buildings in the city including La Sagrada Família and sites not usually open to the general public. The self-guided tour departs from Palau Güell, Carrer Nou de la Rambla 3-5 and costs just €3.50. It also includes half-price entry to various sights en route, including the Palau de la Música, La Pedrera and the Sagrada Família. The Ruta Modernista pass is available from Casa Lleó Morera, Passeig de Gràcia 35, Monday to Saturday 1000-1900 and Sundays 1000-1400. Bus Tours Two companies run identical tours of the city. Julià Tours (tel: (93) 317 6454; website: www.julia-tours.com) departs from Ronda Universitat 5, while Pullmantur (tel: (93) 487 6972 or 488 1818), sets off from Gran Viá de les Corts Catalanes 65. A morning tour concentrates on the Gothic Quarter and Montjuïc, while an afternoon tour includes visits to key examples of Barcelona’s architectural heritage and the Picasso Museum. Half-day tours cost around €30. The Barcelona Bus Turístic, operated by TMB (tel: (93) 298 7000; website: www.tmb.net), allows visitors to hop on and off designated tourist buses, at the sites of their choice. The buses ply two routes and the first buses for each route leave Plaça de Catalunya, daily at 0900. Tickets cost €14 for one day or €18 for two days. Boat Tours There are boat trips around the harbour, offered by Golondrinas (tel: (93) 442 3106). These depart from the Port Olímpic every day 1100, 1300, 1630 and 1830. A round trip of the harbour takes approximately 45 minutes to one hour and costs €8.10. Energetic visitors can opt for a one-way ticket and then walk the four kilometres (two-and-a-half miles) back to Barceloneta, from the breakwater. Excursions For a Half Day Mount Tibidabo: On a clear day, Mount Tibidabo – on the northwestern edge of Barcelona – offers unsurpassed views of the city and the Mediterranean in one direction and Montserrat and the Pyrenees in the other. The slopes of the mountain are crisscrossed with appealing wooded walks and the summit is crowned with an old-style amusement park. Transport to the mountain is by FCC metro to Avinguda Tibidabo, then Tramvia Blau tram to Peu de Funicular and funicular railway to the summit. For a Whole Day Montserrat: 40km (25 miles) to the northwest of Barcelona, the spectacular peaks of Montserrat have been a major pilgrimage destination for centuries. Today, hordes of tourists flock to ride the cable car to this atmospheric monastery that lurks deep in the rugged mountainside. Numerous miracles have supposedly happened at Montserrat, centred on the icon of La Moreneta (Black Virgin), allegedly hidden here by St Peter. In addition to the monastery and accompanying museum, which features paintings by masters such as El Greco, Caravaggio and Picasso, the mountain hides numerous hermitages and caves, which can be reached on foot via a network of mountain paths. FCC trains to Montserrat depart hourly from Espanya station in Barcelona, to the cable-car terminus at Aeri de Montserrat. Teatre-Museu Dalí, Figueres: Located in the town of Figueres, 145km (90 miles) northeast of Barcelona and reached by motorway or rail from Passeig de Gràcia, this unusual museum (tel: (97) 267 7500; website: www.dali-estate.org) is a surrealist showcase of the artist’s eccentric imagination. Created by Dalí himself, out of the former town theatre where he held his first exhibition, it also holds his surprisingly austere tomb. The museum is open daily 0900-1945, July to September and Tuesday to Saturday 1030-1745, October to June. Entrance is €9. Beaches: Sitges (website: www.sitges.com) is a lively Balearic-style resort, 40km (25 miles) south of Barcelona, very popular with the Spanish, British and German gay community and accessible in 40 minutes by train south from Barcelona-Sants. Alternatively, Tossa de Mar, 40km (25 miles) north, boasts several fine beaches and small bays, an attractive old town and a good museum. Buses from Barcelona are frequent during the summer but private transport may be required at other times. The Sitges Tourist Office, Carrer Sinia Morera 1 (tel: (93) 894 4251) and the Tossa de Mar Tourist Office, Avenida del Pelegri 25, Edificio La Nau (tel: (97) 234 0108; fax: (97) 234 0712; website: www.infotossa.com), provide further information. Hotels Spanish VAT (IVA) is 7% and is added to all hotel bills – usually to the bill at the end, although sometimes it is included within the prices given. The prices quoted below are for double rooms, either an average price over the low and high season or the starting price for a double room, as stated. They do not include breakfast or IVA unless otherwise specified. Business Catalunya Plaza A friendly hotel with a personal touch, the three-star Catalunya Plaza is located at the very centre of the city with excellent access to the airport and main traffic routes. It is housed in a pretty noucentista (19th-century) building, colourfully but tastefully decked out with seasonal themes, and features stunning stained-glass windows in the reception area. Each of the 46 rooms are fully equipped and include a fax and generously sized desk. Meeting rooms of various sizes all overlook Plaça de Catalunya and include a multitude of services including technical back-up and audiovisual equipment. Breakfast is a veritable feast and comes with a choice of newspaper. Plaça de Catalunya 7 Tel: (93) 317 7171. Fax: (93) 317 7855. E-mail: catalunya@city-hotels.es Website: www.city-hotels.es Price: EUR144. Hotel El Rey Juan Carlos I Situated on Avinguda Diagonal, Barcelona’s vibrant commercial nerve centre, near the Palacio de Congresos, the five-star Juan Carlos exudes gravitas, comfort and tranquillity. The 375 rooms, including 37 luxury suites, are spacious, decorated in modern, subtle hues and enjoy panoramic city and sea views. Easy access from the airport coupled with top-notch meeting rooms and facilities make the hotel an obvious choice for visiting politicians and financiers. A tranquil patio restaurant, fringed with palm trees and exotic Mediterranean flora, is just one of a number of excellent eating places; leisure facilities include a first-class health and fitness club and indoor and outdoor swimming pools. Avinguda Diagonal 661-671 Tel: (93) 364 4223. Fax: (93) 364 4232. E-mail: hotel@hrjuancarlos.com Website: www.hrjuancarlos.com Price: From EUR301. Hotel Fira Palace Situated on a quiet, leafy street midway between the Fira de Barcelona exhibition halls and cultural attractions, including the Olympic Stadium and the Miró Museum, the four-star Fira Palace has the best of both worlds. The modern and elegantly designed rooms have Italian marble bathrooms and contain desk, telephone and fax; an impressive business centre includes separate working areas offering full office services and a number of versatile meeting rooms holding 18 to 2500. Eating facilities range from restaurant El Mall, specialising in regional and international cuisine, to the relaxing Piano Bar for snacks. A pool and squash courts are also on site. Avinguda Rius i Taulet 1-3 Tel: (93) 426 2223. Fax: (93) 424 8679. E-mail: sales@fira-palace.com Website: www.fira-palace.com Price: EUR192. Hotel Princesa Sofia Inter-Continental The four-star Inter-Continental is a business hotel par excellence. Situated on Avinguda Diagonal, it is the largest conference venue in Barcelona. Decorated in Mediterranean-inspired blues, the light, spacious bedrooms operate as fully functioning offices, featuring large work desks, ergonomically designed chairs and sockets for an array of technology. A superb business centre, comprising 28 meeting and banqueting rooms accommodating ten to 1200 people, comes with a full range of secretarial services. A relaxing terrace restaurant, luxurious indoor swimming pool and health club, plus proximity to excellent shopping centres make it an ideal choice for the serious business traveller. Plaça Pío XII 4 Tel: (93) 508 1000 or 1050 (reservations). Fax: (93) 508 1001. E-mail: barcelona@interconti.com Website: www.interconti.com Price: EUR307. Luxury Hotel Arts The product of a hugely successful collaboration between New York design and Barcelona money, the Arts has been showered with awards, including several for ‘Best Hotel’. Forty-four storeys high, it enjoys a relaxing beachside location and all 483 rooms have Mediterranean views. Decorated with flair and originality throughout, rooms are light and spacious with full-sized desks and Internet access; works by leading Spanish artists adorn the public areas. Among the astounding array of services and amenities are top-class restaurants, a fitness club and exceptional business facilities. An in-house conference service team is to hand, as are around-the-clock secretarial services and ‘technology butlers’. Carrer de la Marina 19-21 Tel: (93) 221 1000. Fax: (93) 221 3045. Website: www.ritzcarlton.com Price: From EUR270. Hotel Ritz Despite recent changes of name and management, the Ritz has maintained all the elegance and grandeur that has made it a by-word for glamour since its opening in 1919. Huge chandeliers, opulent fabrics and a luxurious ambience throughout make it the preferred choice of the rich and famous. The bedrooms are handsomely decorated, with unusual marble bathrooms modelled on ancient Roman spas. The Scotch Bar Parilla is ideal for pre-prandial drinks followed by dinner in the pretty Restaurant Diana or alfresco in a peaceful interior garden. Business clientele are well catered for, too; the conference suites, although traditional in style, benefit from cutting-edge technology. Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 668 Tel: (93) 318 5200. Fax: (93) 318 0148. E-mail: info@ritz-barcelona.com Website: www.ritz-barcelona.com Price: From EUR298. Moderate Hostal Jardí A perennially popular budget option in the busy hub of the old quarter, the two-star pensión Jardí has recently undergone extensive reformas, including the addition of a hitherto non-existent breakfast room. The character and original features of this fantastic little hotel have been maintained. Overlooking the shady, café-lined Plaça Sant Josep Oriols and the classic Gothic architecture of the medieval church of Santa Maria del Pi, the Jardí is pretty much unbeatable in terms of price and location, although the improvements have necessitated price rises. Plaça Sant Josep Oriols 1 Tel: (93) 301 5958. Fax: (93) 318 3664. Price: From EUR48 (including IVA). Hotel Peninsular Located in a narrow street near the Liceu opera house, the Peninsular is a Modernista gem. Built on the site of a former convent, it is one of the oldest hotels in Barcelona, currently managed by the young, humorous offspring of the original owners. Rooms are simple and clean although not all have their own bathroom facilities. Full of interesting architectural detail, such as the dining room’s Moorish-inspired arches, the real pièce de résistance is the wonderful interior balcony. Adorned with hanging plants and wicker tables and chairs, it has a serene, almost oriental atmosphere. Booking well (about three months) in advance is almost always necessary. Carrer Sant Pau 34-36 Tel: (93) 302 3138. Fax: (93) 412 3699. Price: EUR54 (including breakfast and IVA). Other Recommendations Hotel España Designed by one of the leading lights of the Modernista school of architects, Domenèch i Muntaner, and once patronised by the likes of Dalí, the two-star España enjoys a priviledged location close to Las Ramblas and the Liceu. Recently renovated, some rooms are superior to others, but major compensations include Ramón Casa’s striking mural depicting underwater scenes and the elaborate craftsmanship in the high Catalan dining room. The 90 bedrooms are fully equipped; private rooms and a patio garden for meetings and celebrations are also available. It is also one of the few central establishments with parking facilities. Carrer Sant Pau 9-11 Tel: (93) 318 1758. Fax: (93) 317 1134. Price: EUR78 (including breakfast and IVA). Hotel Oriente Situated on the bustling thoroughfare of Las Ramblas, the three-star Oriente is one of Barcelona’s original ‘grand’ hotels. Constructed in 1842 on the site of a Franciscan monastery, the 142-room hotel was once the haunt of the great and the good, counting Maria Callas, Toscanini and Errol Flynn among its illustrious guests. Although recent renovations are perhaps a tad characterless, the grand dining room and arched ballroom (now a lounge) are still potently redolent of its glorious heyday.Today, the hotel is largely aimed at the business traveller and offers extensive support facilities and 12- and 24-hour ‘convention packages’. Las Ramblas 45-47 Tel: (93) 302 2558. Fax: (93) 412 3819. E-mail: horiente@husa.es Website: www.husa.es Price: EUR108 (including breakfast). Restaurants We have selected 25 restaurants, which we have divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. Spanish VAT (IVA) is 7% and is included in all menu prices. If not, it will be stated that prices are exclusive of IVA. Tipping is not a widespread practice in Barcelona but, of course, should you wish to leave a gratuity, it is always appreciated. In the upscale restaurants, it is customary to leave a few Euros. Occasionally, a cover charge of about EUR1 is added to the bill but the menu should mention this. The prices quoted below are for a three-course meal and for a bottle of house wine; they include IVA but do not include tip. Gastronomic Agut d’Avignon Tucked away in a tiny street in the atmospheric Barri Gòtic, Agut d’Avignon is the creation of ex-lawyer and pharmacist Ramón Cabau. Known for his impeccable taste, the restaurant is a haven for writers, artists and politicians, and has attracted diners such as Miró and Yves Montand. Rustic yet elegant, employing top-quality produce and a first-rate wine list, it is evident why. The menu is seasonal, offering adventurous dishes such as partridge pâté and roast boar with raspberry sauce. Carrer de la Trinitat 3/Avinyo 8 Tel: (93) 302 6034. Fax: (93) 302 5318. Website: www.virtualsd.es/agutdavignon Price: EUR36. Wine: EUR6. Ca l’Isidre Run by the Gironés i Salvó family for over 25 years, Ca l’Isidre is an intimate restaurant boasting King Juan Carlos among its regular clientele. Isidre Gironés presides over the excellent wine list and exquisite food, personally selecting the best ingredients at the nearby La Boqueria market to conjure up timeless dishes, including duck liver pâté and figs, stuffed artichokes or saddle of lamb. The cosy dining room is a charming ‘home from home’ thanks to his wife Montse. Daughter Núria is an ace patisera, whose desserts provide a perfect finale to chef César Pastor’s seasonal Catalan dishes. Booking essential. Carrer Les Flors 12 Tel: (93) 441 1139 or 442 5720. Fax: (93) 442 5271. E-mail: isidre@mhp.es Website: www.isidre.mhp.es/calisidr.htm Price: EUR48. Wine: EUR9. El Racó de Can Fabes The recipient of three Michelin stars and numerous awards, El Racó is idyllically situated near Montseny, an area of outstanding natural beauty about 60km (37 miles) from Barcelona. Proprietor and chef Santi Santamaria is open, friendly and passionate about Catalan food. His quality-based, customer-orientated philosophy ensures that a visit to his rustic-style restaurant is an exceptional experience. Inspired by the fruits from the Mediterranean to the mountains, dishes range from wood pigeon with spring onions and cardamom to fish in seaweed sauce; postres (desserts) such as mango and plum ‘lasagne’ are deliciously inventive. Carrer Sant Joan 6, Sant Celoni (A7 from Barcelona, exit 7 for Sant Celoni) Tel: (93) 867 2851. Fax: (93) 867 3861. Website: www.racocanfabes.com Price: EUR66 (à la carte); EUR54-81 (menus). Wine: EUR12. Gaig Gaig started out in the 1800s as a small family tavern specialising in home cooking in the northern barrio of Horta. More than a century later, it is one of the city’s top restaurants and the recipient of many awards. Master chef Carles Gaig is at the helm creating brilliant, innovative versions of old recipes: pheasant with plums, canelones with truffle sauce and mango ravioli are but a few. The wine list is equally impressive. Carles’ wife, Fina, presides over the light, modern dining room. Passieg Maragall 402 Tel: (93) 429 1017. Price: EUR66. Wine: EUR12. Jean-Luc Figueras Housed in the former atelier of the fashion designer Balanciaga, the elegant, classically Catalan surroundings – all polished wood, lamps and tiled floors – are almost as outstanding as the food. Frenchman Jean-Luc Figueras creates modern, original dishes, such as fried prawn and ginger pasta in mustard and mango sauce, without submitting to the demands of fadiness or egoism. The menu tends to lean towards seafood but meat dishes are also included. Master patisero Jordi Butrón’s sublime puddings are outstanding. Carrer Santa Teresa 10 Tel: (93) 415 2877. Price: EUR54. Wine: EUR9. Business Botafumeiro Founded in 1973 by Galician José Ramon Neira in the bohemian barrio of Gràcia, Botafumeiro has acquired a solid reputation as one of Barcelona’s best seafood restaurants, specialising in mariscos: lobster, langoustines, oysters and also fish and meat stews. The Baroque-inspired dining room is spacious and comfortable, decorated in peachy shades set off by sparkling chandeliers and oil paintings. For the romantic, singers and guitarists are on hand for serenading. An impressive team can help plan business dinners in opulent private dining rooms. Carrer Gran de Gràcia 81 Tel: (93) 218 4230 or 217 9642. Fax: (93) 415 5848. Website: www.botafumeiro.es Price: EUR39. Wine: EUR9. Negro Conveniently located in the heart of the city’s financial nerve centre, Negro encapsulates the ‘less is more’ philosophy embraced by the new wave of Barcelona restauranteurs. Fashionably informal and stylishly decorated in minimalist black and white, it is a world away from traditional, somewhat ‘folksy’ Catalan restaurants. With nary a pig’s trotter in sight, Negro offers an eclectic fusion of Mediterranean and Oriental cuisine, featuring sushi, risottos and unusual salads, served in a cool, cosmopolitan atmosphere. There is live music in the basement Thursday nights and weekends. Avinguda Diagonal 640 (Caja Madrid Building) Tel: (93) 405 9444. Price: EUR27. Wine: EUR6. Neichel Neichel is one of Barcelona’s top restaurants, attracting a Michelin star and a panoply of plaudits for proprietor and chef Jean-Louis Neichel’s highly original Alsace–Catalan cuisine. Consommé of black truffles, deer in red wine and honey and lavender ice cream are but a few of the opulent treats to savour. Located in the affluent barrio of Pedralbes, the design is modern and the ambience relaxing. The cool cream and white dining room is tasteful and understated and overlooks a colourful Mediterranean garden. Carrer Beltrán i Rózpide 1-5 (before Avinguda Pedralbes) Tel: (93) 203 8408. Fax: (93) 205 6369. E-mail: neichel@relaischateaux.com Website: www.relaischateaux.fr/neichel Price: EUR54 (à la carte); EUR47-53 (set menus). Wine: EUR12. Ruccula Housed in the heart of the spanking new, ultra-smart World Trade Centre, Ruccula has rapidly become a favourite among the Catalan capital’s rich and glamorous. The reasonably priced food, prepared by top-class chefs, is Catalan-based with an ingenious Italian-Asiatic twist. A generous selection of dishes includes fresh pasta salad with langoustines in pesto or chicken yakitori with teriyaki sauce. Designed to resemble a magnificent floating vessel, the WTC is surrounded by sparkling sea views and makes for a luxurious setting. World Trade Centre, Port de Barcelona Tel: (93) 508 8268. Fax: (93) 508 8269. Price: EUR27. Wine: EUR9. Via Veneto Since opening in the late 1960s, Via Veneto has won a host of awards for its high-class Catalan cuisine and exceptional wines. Dishes include an exquisite fish soup, stuffed wild partridge or potatoes with purée of butifarra sausage. Located near the business district of Diagonal, it contains some of the best private rooms in Barcelona, accommodating four to 100 diners. With its pretty Belle Epoque-style dining room, wonderful food and welcoming staff, it is little wonder that it became one of Dalí’s regular haunts. A mirror, signed by the painter, is still on display. Carrer Ganduxer 10-12 Tel: (93) 200 7244. Fax: (93) 201 6095. E-mail: pmonje@adam.es Website: www.webs.adam.es/viaveneto Price: EUR63. Wine: EUR9. Trendy Arc Café A recent arrival on the Barcelona scene, Arc Café is a ‘gastrobar’ run by German duo Thomas and Willi. Hearty Mediterranean, Caribbean and Asian-influenced dishes, such as chicken curry salad and sublime spicy veggie burgers, are prepared in the spotless open-plan kitchen amid warm, softly lit surroundings and a backdrop of mellow sounds. Tending towards the vegetarian, there’s nevertheless a good selection of meat dishes too. Its location in a narrow, picturesque street near Plaça Reial makes it an ideal pre-club dinner venue. Carrer Carabassa 19 Tel: (93) 302 5204. Price: EUR15. Wine: EUR6. El Racó d’en Baltà A favourite among hip young Catalans, this design-led restaurant cleverly avoids the design over substance cliché. This is because it combines a modern approach to traditional dishes, such as meatballs with cuttlefish, fish mousse or turrón ice cream, with low prices, a decent wine list and a fascinating array of bizarre creations by British artist, Steve Foster. The upstairs dining room is a relaxing cocoon of gentle greens punctuated with eccentric odds and ends. Carrer Aribau 125 Tel: (93) 453 1044. Price: EUR14. Wine: EUR5. Mama Café Microwaves and processed or tinned foods are strictly prohibited in this stylish, fun vegetarian café-restaurant located in the Raval district, just off Las Ramblas. Using only the freshest ingredients, a range of innovative dishes, such as melon gazpatcho, are prepared daily. The use of bold, rainbow colours, recycled materials and laid-back sounds creates a happy, informal atmosphere. Carrer Doctor Dou 10 Tel: (93) 301 2940. Price: EUR15. Wine: EUR5. Sikkim Inspired by their travels to India, the owners have transformed this former grocery into a high temple of exotica complete with an abundance of candles, buddhas, wafting incense and rich, mood enhancing colours. The food is nevertheless Mediterranean, albeit complimented by ingredients from further afield, such as mangoes and yukka. Sikkim caters handsomely for vegetarians and carnivores alike with a decent range of dishes, including roast shark, vegetable risottos and homely cheesecakes. Plaça Comercial 1 Tel: (93) 268 4313. Price: EUR21. Wine: EUR6. Vildsvin Urban Barcelona meets old Czechoslovakia in this chic, fusion-inspired cerveceria situated near the Generalitat, where modern furnishings and original 19th-century features are stylishly juxtaposed to pleasing effect. The menu is an intriguing mix of Eastern European dishes, such as Hungarian goulash and traditional Spanish platos and tapas. A wide range of beers and also wine are available. Carrer Ferran 38 Tel: (93) 317 9407. Price: EUR15. Wine: EUR6. Budget Cantina Machito Even though the decor verges towards the unsophisticated with its riotous colours and abundance of Mexican kitsch, the food here is authentic and surprisingly good. Many of the ingredients are imported from Mexico and lovingly prepared by the Mexican-born chef. Standards, such as margaritas, tacos and guacamole, make an appearance, as do unusual puddings, such as lime and tequila mousse. Carrer Torrijos 47 Tel: (93) 217 3414. Price: EUR12. Wine: EUR5. Fil Manila A simple, homely restaurant overlooking a quiet square near Plaça de Catalunya, Fil Manila (Barcelona’s only Filipino restaurant) offers excellent value for money. The choice of dishes is vast, with main courses starting at around EUR4. In addition to meat and fish, there are some appetising coconut milk curries to be had and uncomplicated, but mouthwatering, puddings such as fried banana. Carrer Ramelleres 3 Tel: (93) 318 6487. Price: EUR8. Unlicensed. Habibi Of the growing number of Lebanese restaurants in Barcelona, Habibi is one of the best. A world away from the falafel and kebab brigade, the diverse menu caters for carnivores and vegetarians alike, including excellent houmous and other savoury dips, spicy rice dishes and sweet, succulent Arab puddings to finish. Considering that only organic produce is used, the value for money is almost astonishing. Carrer Gran de Gràcia 7 Tel: (93) 217 9545. Price: EUR12. Wine: EUR5. La Fonda Part of a highly successful, upmarket chain, La Fonda offers Catalan classics, such as butifarra sausage with haricot beans or the national dessert crema catalana, in well-designed, attractive surroundings. An abundance of plants, wood and a gallery create a light and spacious atmosphere. Very popular, especially at lunchtime, so booking is essential. Les Quince Nits (tel: (93) 317 3075), part of the same chain, is around the corner at Plaça Reial 6. Carrer Escudellers 10 Tel: (93) 301 7515. Price: EUR12. Wine: EUR5. La Habana Vieja Retro decor and a plethora of exotic cockails evoke the exuberant spirit of old Havana in this atmospheric Cuban restaurant, situated in a narrow passeig near the Picasso Museum. A feast of dishes, such as shredded beef, coconut and cheese pudding, and fried banana, make for an lively and inexpensive dinner. Carrer Banys Vells 2 Tel: (93) 268 2504. Price: EUR15. Wine: EUR6. Cocktails: From EUR2 each. Personal Recommendations El Convent El Convent is a sumptiously decorated fin de siècle-style restaurant, occupying four storeys of an 18th-century house in a minute street behind La Boqueria market. Individually decorated private rooms are available in addition to the attractive public dining areas. An extensive menu combines cocina Catalana and international cuisine, with dishes such as chicken with orange or hake in langoustine cream sauce. Inexpensive group menus start at under EUR12 per head and include homemade puddings, such as the ubiquitous crème caramel-like ‘flan’. Carrer Jerusalem 3 Tel: (93) 317 1052. Fax: (93) 302 3112. E-mail: rbmesa@softly.es Website: www.rbmesa.com/convent.htm Price: EUR21. Wine: EUR5. El Pla de la Garsa Tucked away amid a tangle of medieval streets near the Picasso Museum, this former dairy and stables has been converted into a cosy, bohemian retreat retaining many of its original 16th-century features. Antique tiles, an old spiral staircase and low lamps create an agreeable ambience in which to enjoy the wide selection of dishes, high-quality cheeses, pâtés and delicious puddings, such as caramelised figs. Carrer Assaonadors 13 Tel: (93) 315 2413. Price: EUR15. Wine: EUR6. Euskal Etxea Otherwise known as the Basque Cultural Centre, some of the best tapas in town are to be had here. Situated in an idyllic tiny square near the Picasso Museum and the wondrous church of Santa Maria del Mar, Euskal Etxea is an atmospheric bar offering a huge variety of tapas, ranging from the most simple to the most intricate creations. Tapas appear around noon and around 1900, so the best choice is to be had early. Placeta Montcada 1-3 Tel: (93) 310 2185. Price: EUR8. Wine: EUR6. Laurak Specialising in Basque cuisine, reputedly the best in Spain, Laurak is an un-stuffy, top-notch restaurant located near the Diagonal. The six-course set menu is amazing value, featuring modern versions of traditional Basque dishes, such as piquillo peppers stuffed with salt cod. Extraordinarily creative desserts include cheese mousse with sweet herb syrup. The decor is low key, as is the friendly and attentive service. Carrer La Granada del Penedès 14-16 Tel: (93) 218 7165. Price: EUR39 (à la carte); EUR34 (set menu). Wine: EUR12. Set Portes The building housing Set Portes is a national monument and has the distinction of forming the backdrop to the first photograph ever taken in Spain in 1840. Past diners have included kings, politicians and an array of famous names from Alexander Fleming to Ava Gardner. The large dining room is traditionally Catalan as are the individually decorated private rooms, seating two to 80. Its old-world charm and legendary paella, zarzuela (fish stew), fidueà (seafood and spaghettini), maintain its status as one of Barcelona’s favourite restaurants. Passeig Isabel II 14 Tel: (93) 319 3033 or 2950. Fax (93) 319 3046. E-mail: admon@setportes.com Website: www.setportes.com Price: EUR24. Wine: EUR6. Sport The 1992 Olympics turned the sporting spotlight of the world onto Barcelona. Most of the action took place on Montjuïc, which gained a new sports stadium, a marina and several swimming pools. Major annual sporting events in the city include the Formula One Grand Prix, held every May in Montmeló, the Conde de Godó Trophi tennis tournament in April and the Barcelona marathon, which takes place in March. Football is ever popular. The local football team, Fútbol Club Barcelona (Barca), is one of the most successful teams in Europe. The club plays in the massive Camp Nou stadium, Avenguda de Joan XXII, which also houses a football museum. Further information is available from FC Barcelona, Avinguda Arístides Maillol (tel: (93) 496 3600; fax: (93) 411 2219; website: www.fcbarcelona.com). For visitors who want to break into a sweat themselves, the city authorities have a sports information service (tel: (93) 402 3000) with details of city-run sports centres and facilities. The office is located at Avinguda de L’Estadi 30-40 and is open Monday to Friday 0800-1430 and Monday to Thursday 1600-1815. Beaches: There are seven beaches in the immediate vicinity of Barcelona. Water quality is tested regularly but it is still advisable to look before taking a leap into the waves. Platja de Sant Sebastià is a nudist beach. At the other beaches, topless bathing is common. Bullfighting: Bullfights are held on Sunday between April and September at the Monumental bullring at Gran Via Corts Catalanes 749. There is a museum about the sport at the ring. The official ticket office is at Carrer Muntaner 24 (tel: (93) 453 3821) and fights cost from €15-€75. Fitness centres: California Look, Placa Ramon Berenguer el Gran 2 (tel: (93) 319 8725) is open Monday-Friday 0730-2230 and Saturday 1000-1600, providing gym equipment for €7 per day. Golf: There are several golf clubs in the Barcelona area, which are open to non-members. Real Club de Golf ‘El Prat’, Apartado de Correos 10, El Prat de Llobregat (tel: (93) 379 0278; fax: (93) 370 5102), is a first-rate 36-hole course located near the airport. The course has hosted the Spanish Open on numerous occasions and is only open to members of a federated club. Club de Golf Sant Cugat is a 21-hole course in the suburb of Sant Cugat del Valles (tel: (93) 674 3908; fax: (93) 675 5152), 20km (12 miles) northwest of Barcelona. Visiting players must provide all their own equipment but are entitled to use of all the clubs leisure facilities on payment of the green fee. Masia Bach Golf Club Carretera Martolla-Capellades, Sant Esteve Sesrovires (tel: (93) 772 6310 or 8800; fax: (93) 772 6356 or 8810), is an 18-hole course on the outskirts of the city. Membership is not required and weekday green fees are good value at €60, rising to €125 at weekends. Sailing: There are numerous sailing clubs based in Barcelona and several regattas take place during the spring and summer. Further information is available from the Sailing Federation (tel: (93) 203 3800). Swimming: If the beaches do not appeal, the Club de Natació Atlètic Barceloneta, Plaça del Mar (tel: (93) 221 0010), has three indoor pools. Alternatively, visitors can relive the Olympics in the Piscinas Bernat Picornell, Avinguda de L’Estadi 30-40 (tel: (93) 423 4041), on Montjuïc, open daily 0700-2400. There are also numerous city-run swimming pools; the sports information service (see above) provides details. Tennis: Built for the Olympics, the Centre Municipal de Tennis Vall d’Hebron, Passeig de la Vall d’Hebron 178 (tel: (93) 427 6500), has several clay courts, which are now open to the public. However, racquets and balls are not provided. Shopping Shopping is one of Barcelona’s greatest attractions, with a bountiful five-kilometre (three-mile) shopping strip, all the way from the water’s edge at Port Vell, right up La Rambla, to Diagnol. International chains, designer shops and modern department stores can be found in the area around Plaça de Catalunya, Passeig de Gracia and along the Diagonal. The most famous shop in the city is the imposing El Corte Inglés on Plaça de Catalunya – part of a national chain, generally considered to be Spain’s leading department stores. La Rambla and the Barri Gòtic are the places for tourists to hunt for souvenirs. A visit to La Boqueria market, officially Mercat de Sant Josep, off Rambla Sant Josep, is an unmissable experience. The market is open Monday to Saturday 0800-2000, for the sale of fresh fish, meat, vegetables and dairy products. Other food markets to try are Concepció, Carrer Aragó, Ninot, Carrer Mallorca, and the Gastronomic Fair, which takes place in Plaça del Pi, on the first and third Friday, Saturday and Sunday of the month. For antiques and curios, the Els Encants market is held on Plaça de les Glories, every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 0900-1900. Another antiques market is held on Plaça Nova every Thursday (except in August). Representative gifts include Catalan black pottery, handwoven baskets or Barcelona lace. In recent years, a number of urban-chic orientated fashion stores have opened in the city centre. Camden Town, Calle Hospital 4, has all the latest fashion, as well as some more esoteric PVC and ‘erotic’ creations. Jean Pierre Bua, Diagonal 469, is the more conventionally trendy home of designer names such as Gaultier and Miyake. Shops open at 0900 or 1000 and close again for an extended lunch, between 1330 and 1600 or 1700. In the evening, shops shut at 2000 or 2030. Large department stores do not generally close for lunch. All shops are open on Saturday afternoons but are closed all day on Sunday. IVA (value added tax) of 7% is charged on all goods and services in Spain. Upon departure, visitors from outside the EU, who have been in the EU for less than 180 days, can get a VAT (IVA) refund from the airport, on goods worth €90 or more. Tax return forms are available from shops on request. IVA on services is not refundable. Culture Barcelona’s reputation as a world centre for art, architecture and design is growing yearly, with a plethora of cultural activities on offer. As if it needed confirming, in 1999, the entire city was awarded a Royal Gold Medal for Architecture, from the Royal Institute of British Architects. The seminal ghosts of such artistic luminaries as Antonio Gaudí, Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró and Antoni Tàpies permeate Barcelona’s cultural scene. Barcelona is also a showcase for homegrown Catalan traditions – dozens of festivals, religious holidays and special occasions are celebrated in the city each year. The Guía del Ocio booklet, available from newsagents and news stands, provides information on cultural and other events in the city, and contact details for ticket agencies. The free seasonal guide, See Barcelona, which is available in hostels, is also helpful. Alternatively, there is a cultural information desk at Palau de la Virrena, La Rambla 99 (tel: (93) 301 7775). Caixa Catalunya run the central ticket agency, Entrada (tel: (90) 210 1212; website: www.telentrada.com). Music: Homegrown stars include the cellist, Pablo Casals, and the international opera singers, Josep Carreras and Montserrat Caballé. The laer celebrated her native city in a highly theatrical duet (Barcelona) with the late Freddie Mercury of Queen. The main concert hall is the Palau de la Música Catalana, Carrer Sant Francesc de Paula 2 (tel: (93) 295 7200; fax: (93) 295 7210; website: www.palaumusica.org). A UNESCO World Heritage building and one of the most extravagant music venues in the world, Sunday concerts here are a Barcelona institution. It was designed by the modernist architect, Domènech i Montaner, as a showcase for the Catalan renaissance and was the main venue for the Orquesta Sinfónica de Barcelona y Nacional de Catalunya (website: www.obc.es) until they relocated to L’Auditori, Carrera Lepant 150 (tel: (93) 247 9300) in 1999. There are free musical events in the town hall’s Saló de Cent, Plaça del Rei, on Thursday at 2000, and in various beautiful buildings around the city. Barcelona’s opera house, the stunning Gran Teatre del Liceu, La Rambla 51-59 (tel: (93) 485 9900, for information or (902) 332 211, for bookings; website: www.liceubarcelona.com), was tragically destroyed by fire – for the third time – in 1994. Reconstruction was completed in summer 1999 and performances have since resumed. Theatre: Barcelona’s theatre scene does not enjoy the same international reputation as Madrid’s does, however, what it lacks in literary authority, it makes up for in the visual and audio spectacle of its performances. The theatre scene in the city is lively and well aended, including work by regional and international playwrights. Popular venues include Teatre Lliure, Carrer Montseny 47, Gràcia (tel: (93) 218 9251; website: www.teatrelliure.com), Teatre Tívoli, Carrer Casp 8 (tel: (93) 412 2063), and Teatre Poliorama, La Rambla 115 (tel: (93) 318 8181). A varied programme of drama, music and dance is on offer at Teatre Nacional de Catalunya, Plaça de les Arts 1 (tel: (93) 306 5700; e-mail: info@tnc.es; website: www.tnc.es), and El Mercat de les Flors, Carrer Lleida 59 (tel: (93) 426 1875). Dance: The city’s main venue for ballet and contemporary dance is the L’Espai de Dansa I Música de la Generalitat de Catalunya – referred to simply as L’Espai – Travessera de Gràcia 63 (tel: (93) 414 3133; e-mail: espai@qrz.net; website: http://cultura.gencat.es/espai). A more relaxed atmosphere is in evidence on Sunday mornings, in the square in front of Catedral de la Seu, Plaça de la Seu, when locals flock to watch and participate in the local dance – the sardana. Cabaret: Music-hall-style shows are very popular in Barcelona; the Barcelona City Hall, Rambla de Catalunya 2-4 (tel: (93) 317 2177), is the main venue. Film: There are a growing number of cinemas that show foreign-language films in the original with Spanish subtitles. The 15-screen Icaria Yelmo in the Olympic Port, Carrer Salvador Espriu 61 (tel: (93) 221 7585), and the more convenient one at Maremagnum, Port Vell (tel: (902) 333 231), are two of several multi-screen cinemas in the city. There are no notable arthouse cinemas in Barcelona. Cultural events: General information on events can be obtained from the Palau de Congressos, Avinguda Maria Cristina 1 (tel: (93) 233 2372). The Grec-Barcelona festival (tel: (93) 318 8599; website: www.grec.bcn.es), which takes place every summer, from June to August, is the focus of the city’s cultural life. Theatre, music and dance are performed at venues throughout the city, including the open-air auditoria at Teatre Grec on Montjuïc and Convent de Sant Augustí. October and November see the annual Festival Internacional de Jazz run by The Project (tel: (93) 481 7040; fax: (93) 481 7041). Traditional festivities take place on 23 April, in honour of Sant Jordi (St George), and again on 24 June, for the Verbena de Sant Joan (St John), when bonfires and fireworks illuminate the city. There are two major celebrations in early autumn – Diada Nacional de Catalunya (Catalonia National Day), on 11 September, and the spectacular Fiesta de La Mercé (the patron saint of Barcelona), on 24 September. Festivities for the latter include parades, traditional dancing, sporting events and religious celebrations. Human pyramids known as castellers are constructed in the streets. Literary Notes La Ciudad de los Prodigios or City of Marvels (1990) by Eduardo Mendoza fictionalises the life of the city, between its two international exhibitions in 1888 and 1929. Year of the Flood (1996), by the same author, is set in Barcelona in the 1950s. La Plaça del Diamant or The Time of the Doves (1962) by Mercè Rodoreda is the best known Catalan novel and traces the life of Colometa, through the turmoil of the civil war. Manuel Vazquez Montalban’s detective character, Pepe Carvalho, is a Barcelona native, and the city is the setting for the crime novels in which he stars. Homage to Catalonia (1937) by George Orwell is the author’s first-hand observations of the Spanish revolution in the region. More recently, Colm Toibin’s The South (1990) is a startling first novel, which depicts the struggles of an Irish woman looking for a new life in Barcelona. Joan Maragall is the region’s most celebrated poet. Nightlife Barcelona is increasingly gaining a reputation as one of Europe’s great party cities and deservedly so. Things may start slowly with some food and a few drinks after siesta finishes (at about 1700) but they soon gather pace and by 2300 the city is buzzing. Friday and Saturday nights are when the city is at its liveliest but the drinking and dancing keeps going throughout the week. Bars are usually open until 0200 or 0300, while clubs and discos keep going until 0500 or 0600. The legal drinking age in Barcelona is 16 years and the price of tipple ranges from EUR1 for a small beer or glass of wine to EUR4 for something stronger, such as a rum and coke, depending also on the type of establishment. Port Olímpic is particularly buzzing on summer nights, as is Port Vell, where the Maremagnum shopping complex bizarrely metamorphoses into a nefarious collage of cafés, bars and nightclubs open late into the night. In the last few years, bars modernos with music and designer decor have been popular with a young ultra-hip clientele across the city. The trend is to dress quite smartly to go out in Barcelona. Available in hostels, the free seasonal guide, See Barcelona, and the Guía del Ocio booklet, available from newsagents and newspaper stands, both provide information on nightlife in Barcelona. Bars: Xampanyerías (champagne bars) serving sparkling Catalan wine (cava) are a speciality of the city. Good places for cava include La Bodegueta del Xampú, Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 702, Xampanyeria Casablanca, Carrer Bonavista 6, and El Xampanyet, Carrer Montcada 22. The latter serves cider and tapas, as well as cava, in vibrant surroundings. Bar Pastís, Carrer Santa Mònica, has the honour of counting Picasso among its former regulars. The artist’s other hangout was El Quatre Gats, Carrer Montsió 3, a modernista bar with good beer and live music from 2100. The original menu, designed by Picasso, is on show in the Museu Picasso (see Key Attractions). L’Ovella Negra, Carrer Sitges 5, is a favourite as much with the international backpacker set as it is with local students. Bar Marsella, Carrer de Sant Pau 65, is the place in town to imbibe an absenta, a close relative of absinthe. For the style-conscious, some of the city’s coolest haunts include the spectacular Torres de Avila, Avinguda Marqués de Comillas, Poble Espanyol on Montjuïc, the perennially stylish Dry Martini, Carrer Aribau 162-165, Ideal Cocktail Bar, Carrer Aribau 89, and Mas i Mas, Carrer Maria Cubi 199. Mirablau, Plaça Doctor Andreu, at the foot of the Tibidabo funicular, is especially romantic, with its sweeping views of the city, while popular Berimbau, Passeig del Born 17, serves up good cocktails to a background of Brazilian rhythms. Casinos: Gran Casino de Barcelona, Carrer de la Marina 19-21 (website: www.casino-barcelona.com), is open 1300 to 0500 daily. Visitors must be 18 years or over and carry a passport or driving licence. A smart dress code applies. Clubs: Barcelona’s most beautiful people can be found in Up And Down, Carrer Numància 179, the city’s most exclusive nightclub, while a younger, more down-to-earth crowd boogie to the latest disco sounds at Bikini, Carrer Deu i Mata 105. The split-level Moog Club, Arc del Teatre 3, in the Chinese Quarter, offers the best of European techno and hosts big international DJs. Salsitas, Calle Nou de la Rambla 22, with a well designed bar, restaurant and a dancefloor, has quickly become one of the city’s trendiest hotspots, since it opened in summer 2000, while stylish Torres de Ávila, Avinduga Marquès de Comillas, Poble Espanyol, has long been celebrated for its all-night trance-techno discos on summer weekends. Popular open-air haunts include La Terrazza, Avinguda Montanyans – open in the summer months only. For flamenco dancing, try Tablao Flamenco Cordobes, La Rambla 35, Los Tarantos, Plaça Reial 17, or Tablao del Carmen, Arcs 9, Poble Espanyol. La Paloma, Carrer Tigre 27, is a beautiful dancehall from the turn of the century. The band plays to an enthusiastic crowd, with a menu of pasa doble, tango, salsa, flamenco and more. Punto BCN, Carrer Muntaner 63, is a popular gay club. Live music: Large-scale rock and pop concerts by international stars can be heard at the Palau Sant Jordi, Passeig Olímpic, the Estadi Olímpic, Montjuïc, and Camp Nou, Avenguda de Joan XXII. The best mid-sized venue is Zeleste, Carrer Almogàvers 122, in Poble Nou, which hosts Spanish and international pop and rock groups. Harlem Jazz Club, Carrer Comtesa de Sobradiel 8, hosts jazz and other live music, daily until 0400. Jamboree, Plaça Reial, is a long-standing and popular jazz, blues and funk venue, next door to Los Tarantos. Traditional folk music from Catalonia, Spain and the rest of Europe is on offer at the Centre Artesà Tradicionarius, Travessera de Sant Antoni 6-8, which hosts concerts on Thursday and Friday evenings. City Statistics Location: Catalunya (Catalonia), Northeast Spain. Country dialling code: 34. Population: 1,503,451 (city); 4,264,039 (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: Majority Catalan Spanish, minorities include Roma and African. Religion: 90% Roman Catholic, 10% Protestants, Muslims and Jews. Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: 10°C (50°F). Average July temp: 25°C (78°F). Annual rainfall: 590mm (23.2 inches). Special Events Epiphany, parades in the streets, 6 Jan, throughout the city Barcelona Marathon, Mar, throughout the city Festes de Sant Medir, religious festival with parade and choral singing, 3 Mar, Grácia and various other venues Trofeo Conde de Godó de Tennis, tennis championship, Apr, Reial Club de Tennis Barcelona Formula One Grand Prix, late Apr, Circuit de Catalunya, Montmeló Holy Week festivities, mid-Apr, various venues Diade de Sant Jordi (St George’s Day), St George book and rose festival, 23 Apr, La Rambla and various venues Corpus Christi, processions and L’Ou com Balla (the dancing egg), May/Jun, Catedral and various venues Pasqua Granada, local religious holiday, Jun, throughout the city Verbena de Sant Joan (St John’s Day), bonfires and fireworks, 24 Jun, throughout the city Fest de Grec-Barcelona, month-long festival celebrating both international and national performing arts, end Jun-end Jul, various venues Festes de Sant Jaume, religious festival, 25 Jul, throughout the city Diade Nacional de Catalunya (Catalonia National Day), public holiday, 11 Sep, throughout the city Fiesta de La Mercé, parades, dancing and sporting events, late Sep, various venues Festival Internacional de Jazz (International Jazz Festival), Oct-Dec, various venues Fiesta de Santa Llúcia, Christmas fairs, mid-Dec, Plaça de la Seu, Plaça Sant Jaume and various other venues Cost of Living On 1 January 2002, the Spanish Peseta was replaced by the Euro. One-litre bottle of mineral water: €1 33cl bottle of beer: €0.80 Financial Times newspaper: €2 36-exposure colour film: € 3.50 City-centre bus ticket: €1 Adult football ticket: €27 Three-course meal with wine/beer: €20 1 Euro (€1) = £0.68; US$1.07; C$1.62; A$1.80; Pta166.39 100 Spanish Pesetas (Pta100) = €0.60 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Business Services Business Contacts: Barcelona Chamber of Commerce Avinguda Diagonal 452-454, 08006 Barcelona Tel: (93) 416 9300. Fax: (93) 416 9301. E-mail: adminweb@cambrescat.es Website: www.cambrescat.es Spanish Chamber of Commerce (UK) 5 Cavendish Square, London W16 0LH Tel: (020) 7637 9061. Fax: (020) 7436 7188. E-mail: spanishchamber@compuserve.com Website: www.spanishchamber.co.uk Spanish Chamber of Commerce (USA) Suite 2029, 350 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10118 Tel: (212) 967 2170. Fax: (212) 564 1415. E-mail: info@spainuscc.org Website: www.spainuscc.org Spanish Embassy Commercial Office (Canada) Suite 801, 151 Slater Street, Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 Tel: (613) 236 0409. Fax: (613) 563 2849. E-mail: buzon.oficial@ottawa.ofcomes.mcx.es Website: www.docuweb.ca/SpainInCanada Commercial Office of the Embassy of Spain (Australia) Suite 408, Edgecliff Centre, 203 New South Head Road, Edgecliff, NSW 2027 Tel: (02) 9362 4212. Fax: (02) 9362 4057. E-mail: buzon.oficial@sidney.ofcomes.mcx.es Turisme de Barcelona Rambla Catalunya 123, 08008 Barcelona Tel: (93) 368 9700. Fax: (93) 368 9701. E-mail: bcb@barcelonaturisme.com Website: www.barcelonaturisme.com The Barcelona Convention Bureau is a specialist department of Turisme de Barcelona. The BCB produces a congress guide in paper and CD-ROM formats with details of venues and facilities throughout the city. The Bureau can also give organisational advice, information on accommodation, business services and specialist agencies in the city as well as leaflets and brochures about Barcelona and general support for Convention delegates. Convention and meeting planners Barcelona Promoció Palau Sant Jordi, Passeig Olímpic 5-7, 08038 Barcelona Tel: (93) 426 2089. Fax: (93) 423 1516. E-mail: barnapro@intercom.es Website: www.barnapro.es Barcelona Promoció organises a wide variety of events at the former Olympic venues. BAC Campo Florido 5456, 08027 Barcelona Tel: (93) 243 0900 or 457 4555. Fax: (93) 243 0909. E-mail: bac@bac-es.com Convention and meeting venues Fira de Barcelona Avinguda Maria Cristina, 08004 Barcelona Tel: (93) 233 2000. Fax: (93) 233 2386. E-mail: construmat@firabcn.es Website: www.construmat The Barcelona Trade Fair is held annually at two massive exhibition sites on Montjuïc hill. Each site includes conference centres, exhibition halls, auditoriums, technical services, cafeterias, restaurants and numerous other facilities. Part of the exhibition complex is the Palau de Congressos de Barcelona (Barcelona Conference Centre) which has nine meeting rooms and a multi-purpose auditorium with superb facilities. The Palau Sant Jordi sports hall in the Olympic Ring has the greatest capacity of any single indoor venue in the city and state-of-the-art support services. The Sala Barcelona 92 is a smaller venue used separately or as an annexe to the main exhibition space. The Estadi Olímpic de Montjuïc (Olympic Stadium) can also be hired for conventions, exhibitions, incentives and product launches. Office equipment hire BCN Gran Via 556, 08011 Barcelona Tel: (93) 451 8584. Fax: (93) 451 0511. Secretarial service Singular Carrer Muntaner 318, 2ON 1A, 08021 Barcelona Tel: (93) 414 1006. Fax: (93) 414 6390. E-mail: admon@fingular.es Translation service Abacongress Carrer Enamorats 85-87, 3ER 1A, 08013 Barcelona Tel: (93) 247 8730. Fax: (93) 247 8731. E-mail: admoaba@mente.com Unusual conference venue A uniquely Barcelona venue is Gaudí’s Casa Milá. The building houses the headquarters of the Caixa de Catalunya Cultural Centre but the auditorium and Sala Gaudí can be hired for conferences and other events. History c. 500BC Foundation by the Carthaginians under Amilcar Barca 27BC-AD14 Roman occupation of Barcino (Barcelona) 3rd C Barcino replaces Tarraco (Tarragona) as the most important Roman outpost in the Hispanic Citerior 415 Occupation by the Visigoths who rename the city Barcinona 8th C Moors conquer the city 9th C Franks conquer the city Late 9th C Barcelona is ruled by Count Wilfred the Hairy, who establishes hereditary succession and unifies the county of Barcelona with other Carolingian territories 988 Count Borrell II achieves independence for the county of Barcelona 1000-1200 Barcelona becomes one of the most important Mediterranean ports 13th C Construction of Cathedral de la Seu begins 14th C Barcelona conquers foreign ports. War between Barcelona and Genoa 1327 Death of Jaume II 1336-1387 Reign of Pere III. Building boom in the city 1391 Pogrom – massacre of Barcelona’s Jewish community 1479-1516 Influence shifts to Castile 1640 Catalan revolt against Spanish monarchy begins in Barcelona; Catalonia allied to Louis XIII of France 1652 Siege of Barcelona by Don Juan José of Austria ends the Catalan rebellion 1680 War against France 1690 War against France 1705-1714 War of Independence against Spain; alliance with England and Genoa 11 Sep 1714 Philip V of Spain conquers Catalonia and abolishes the region’s constitution 18th C Beginning of cotton trade with the Americas and the start of the textile industry 18th C Napoleonic Wars 1821 Yellow fever epidemic 1848 First Spanish railway is constructed between Barcelona and Mataró 1868 Spanish revolution – Bourbons removed from power 1888 World Exhibition held in Barcelona 1901 and 1902 General strikes in the city 1909 Riots in the city; buildings destroyed by anarchists 1931 Left-wing coalition forcibly exiles King Alfonso XIII 1936 Beginning of Spanish Civil War 1960 Massive influx of workers from the impoverished countryside 1977 Catalonia recovers some self-government under the Estatut de Autonomia 1992 Olympic Games held in Barcelona Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.