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_City Overview The capital city of the People’s Republic of China (PRC), Beijing (Peking) is a fast-growing, dynamic metropolis that, while courting foreign businesses and visitors, maintains a firm grip on its rich cultural heritage and a strictly Communist social order. It is a monolithic showcase that can give a distorted view of China to foreign visitors. Beijing is a modern city with high-rise buildings, shopping malls and vast international hotels connected by an intricate freeway system crisscrossing the city. In the rush hour, traffic jams can match those of any major city around the world and the ringing of mobile phones is incessant. However, the modern buildings conceal traditional hutongs, parks, numerous architectural treasure and exquisite yellow-tiled temples whose prayer flags and wind chimes move in the breeze created by the passing traffic. Beijing became China’s capital in 1421 and was to remain so until the collapse of the imperial regime in 1911. It was not until the late 19th century that Westerners were allowed to reside there and all trading links had previously been restricted to Canton. From 1911 to 1949 Beijing suffered, as did the rest of China, from the wars fought between various factions trying to take control of the whole country. The Japanese invasion in 1931 was followed by a bitter civil war, which finally led to Communist supremacy under Mao Tse Tung and the founding of the People’s Republic of China with Beijing as the capital. The first ten years of his rule were successful in many ways. Stability returned to the whole country and great advances were made in industry, agriculture, education and health care. However, in 1966, Mao launched the Cultural Revolution, an attack on his more liberal political colleagues, which was to result in several years of anarchy throughout the country. Following Mao’s death in 1976, China gradually began to open up, welcoming foreigners as investors and as tourists and local Chinese were granted permission to set up businesses. Beijing is now keen to prove what a thriving commercial capital it has become. A good place to start exploring the city is Tiananmen Square, where Mao Tse Tung declared the foundation of the People’s Republic. Today, the Square is more closely identified with the suppression of the student-led pro-democracy protests of 1989. To stand – alongside thousands of visitors – and see the imposing majesty of the Forbidden City to the north and the vast portrait of Mao Tse Tung on the Tiananmen Gate itself is to appreciate the awesome hold that China’s rulers have always had on the people. An unmissable experience is a morning visit to one of Beijing’s public parks. This is when people let their hair down by indulging in their particular favourite physical activity, be it tai’chi, jogging, singing or even ballroom dancing. Beijing is at its best in late spring and autumn. Autumn is a particularly pleasant time to visit as the days are warm and the leaves of the many trees in the city turn glorious shades of red and gold. The heat and humidity of the summers and the biting wind in winter can be extreme. Getting There By Air Capital International Airport (PEK) Tel: (10) 6456 3604. Beijing’s Capital Airport is located 28km (17 miles) northeast of the city centre. The new international terminal opened in September 1999 in preparation for the 50th anniversary of the founding of the PRC and now serves more than 23 domestic airlines and 38 foreign airlines flying over 54 international routes. Major airlines: Air China (tel: (10) 6601 3336 (domestic) or 6601 6667 (international); fax: (10) 6456 3831; website: www.airchina.com.cn/english) is the national airline. Domestic airlines include: China Eastern Airlines (tel: (10) 6468 1166), China Southwest Airlines (tel: (10) 6601 7579), China Southern Airlines (tel: (10) 6553 3623), China Northern Airlines (tel: (10) 6601 7594) and China Northwest Airlines (tel: (10) 6601 7589). Other major carriers include: Air France, British Airways, Canadian Airlines, Garuda Indonesia, Japan Airlines, Korean Air, Lufthansa, Malaysian Airlines, Northwest Airlines, Qantas, SAS, Singapore Airlines, Thai International and United Airlines. Approximate flight times to Beijing: From London is 9 hours 45 minutes; from New York is 14 hours 40 minutes; from Los Angeles is 12 hours 30 minutes; from Toronto is 16 hours 20 minutes and from Sydney is 13 hours 30 minutes. Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATM, duty free and other shops, cafés, restaurants, left-luggage and tourist information. Business facilities: There are four business centres in the airport, three in the domestic area and one in the international area on the second floor. All have Internet facilities and are open whenever there are arriving or departing flights. Departure tax: RMB90 (international flights) or RMB50 (domestic flights) is payable in cash (only Chinese currency accepted) on departure. Transport to the city: Metered taxis are available at the airport. The fare will be RMB100-150 including toll (journey time – 60 minutes). The Airport-City Shuttle Bus departs every 30 minutes from outside Arrivals and buses take three routes into the city – the most popular is to Xidan in central Beijing, a short walk from the Forbidden City. The other routes are to Gongzhufen in western Beijing and to Zhongguancun in the city’s northwest district. The fare is RMB16 (journey time – 45 minutes). Getting There By Road A Chinese driving licence is required to drive in China and driving is illegal for visitors on a tourist visa. Foreign residents may bring their own cars into the country but this involves a huge bureaucratic effort. Holders of Resident’s Permits may apply for a Chinese driving licence but again this is really not to be recommended. Driving is chaotic with little attention given to rules and regulations and accidents are frequent. Road signs are mainly in Chinese but some place names also have an English translation.Basically, all foreigners who want to travel by car within China should hire a car with a local driver. Emergency breakdown service: There is no breakdown service in China. Drivers have to rely on assistance from other passing vehicles. Routes to the city: Main routes out of Beijing are denoted by city names such as the Beijing–Tianjin–Tanggu Expressway, Beijing–Shijiazhuang–Taiyuan Expressway, Beijing–Shenyang Expressway and Beijing–Chengde–Zhangjiakou First Class Road. Driving times to Beijing: From Tianjin – 1 hour 30 minutes; Chengde – 3 hours 30 minutes; Taiyuan – 6 hours. Coach services: Coach and bus travel can be very slow and rather uncomfortable; however, bus tickets are cheaper than rail fares and easier to buy because of the lower demand. There are few facilities at the bus stations and tickets should be bought in person at the ticket office. Generally, the four main long-distance bus stations in Beijing are situated on the perimeter of the city in the direction of their destination. Dongzhimen, Dongzhimen Xiejie, serves the northeast and cities such as Chengde; Haihutin, Nanyuan Lu, serves the south; Beijiao (also known as Deshengmen) is for the north; and Majuan, Guangqumenwai Dajie, serves the east. In addition, buses to Tianjin depart from Zhaogongku, near the intersection of Nansanhuan Donglu and Puhuangyu Lu. Getting There By Rail The national railway service within China, which is operated by the Ministry of Railways, has developed rapidly and is very extensive. Beijing has two main railway stations. Beijing Railway Station (tel: (10) 5101 9999) serves routes to the north and east of the city and Beijing West Railway Station (tel: (10) 5182 7188), the newer and much larger station, is for journeys to the south and west. Other stations in Beijing serve the suburban routes. Both main stations have left-luggage facilities, ATMs, tourist information, shops and restaurants. All Chinese express trains have four different classes – soft sleeper, soft seat, hard sleeper and hard seat. Tickets can be bought at the foreigners’ booking office in each station; passports are required to make the purchase. Reservations, especially for sleepers, should be made two or three days in advance. Rail services: Trans-Manchurian services to Moscow (journey time – six days) and Trans-Mongolian trains to Ulan Bator and Moscow (journey time – five days) leave from Beijing Railway Station, as do trains to Pyongyang in North Korea (journey time – 25 hours). Trains to Hong Kong (journey time – 27 hours) and Vietnam (journey time – 43 hours) leave from Beijing West Station. Tickets for these routes should be bought through China International Travel Service (CITS) (tel: (10) 6601 1122) or the International Train Booking Office at the Beijing International Hotel, Jianguomennai Dajie (tel: (10) 6512 6688). The main railway stations for domestic journeys are Beijing Houche Zhan and Beijing West. Journey times for domestic services to Beijing are: Harbin – 14 hours; Shanghai – 15 hours; Xian – 15 hours; Guangzhou – 24 hours. Transport to the city: Beijing Railway Station is on the subway (Beijing Zhan station) and Beijing West is about 15 minutes’ walk from Junshi Bowuguan subway station. Alternatively, several buses run from Beijing West station to the centre of Beijing. Getting Around Public Transport The public transport system, especially the bus system, is rarely attempted by foreign visitors unless they have a good understanding of Mandarin Chinese. Travel by subway or taxi (see Taxis below) is by far the easier option. City buses run 0530-2300 and are very crowded, particularly in the rush hours (0630-0830 and 1700-1900). There is also a limited night service between 2300 and 0530 hours. Fares of RMB1-2 within the city (up to RMB2-10 for suburban bus routes) are paid to the conductor. Air-conditioned buses within the city cost between RMB2-8 depending on distance travelled. It is important to have the destination written in Chinese as the conductor almost certainly will not speak English. Clean, fast and efficient, the subway (0530-2300) is an appealing alternative, although the trains can be packed during rush hours. The subway consists of two lines: the East–West Line runs from Pingguoyuan to Sihui, and the Ring Line follows the Second Ring Road. Entrances are marked by a logo of a square inside a ‘C’ shape and there is a flat rate of RMB3 for each journey, irrespective of distance travelled. Tickets can be purchased from the ticket offices above the platforms and, as tickets are undated and valid for all journeys, it is worth buying a few at once to save queuing for each journey. However, by the end of 2002, individual tickets will be replaced by prepaid cards that have to be inserted into a machine to gain entry to the subway system. Signs and announcements are in Chinese and English. Taxis Taxis are plentiful, cheap and metered. They wait around major department stores, hotels and railway stations and can be hailed on the street. Taxis in Beijing are mostly small, red hatchbacks or saloons (known as Xiali) and, generally, the smaller and older the car, the cheaper the fare. All taxis have a sticker in the back window that indicates the rate per kilometre, but the usual rate is RMB10 for the first four to five kilometres and RMB1.2-1.6 per kilometre thereafter. There is a 20% surcharge after 2300. It is important to write the destination in Chinese as most drivers are unlikely to speak English. Taxis can be pre-booked through Beijing Taxi Co (tel: (10) 6852 4088). Tipping is not expected but always welcome. Limousines CITS, CITS Building, Fuxingmennei Avenue (tel: (10) 6601 1122 or 8292; website: www.cits.net) can arrange limousines for US$90 per day within the city limits. Driving in the City Few short-term visitors to Beijing attempt to drive there, as the hiring a car is a lengthy process, parking is difficult and car hire is restricted to the city limits. Visitors would also need to be in possession of a Chinese driving licence, which can only be obtained by those holding a Resident’s Permit. Although road regulations do exist, they are regularly ignored and it is not uncommon to see aggressive lane-swapping by buses and taxis or even traffic going the wrong way on roads or roundabouts. Theoretically, traffic drives on the right but on smaller roads this is not always adhered to. Very few road signs are in English and it is important to remember that in the case of an accident it will always be assumed that the foreigner is at fault. Car Hire Visitors wishing to hire a car in Beijing will find that they have to hire a car plus driver. CITS, Fuxingmennei Avenue (tel: (10) 6601 1122 or 8292; website: www.cits.net), and CTS, 2 Beisanhaun East Road (tel: (10) 6461 8959; website: www.ctsho.com), can arrange car hire with a driver and the cost for one day in the city limits starts at US$50-60. Hertz (tel: (10) 6595 8109) also have an office in Beijing at the Jianguo Hotel, 5 Jianguomenwei Avenue, but cars still have to be rented with a driver for around US$90 per day. Bicycle Hire As China has the highest number of bicycles anywhere in the world, it also has an enormous supply of bicycle rental outlets. Although Chinese roads are unpredictable and at times fairly lawless and dangerous, hiring a bike can be preferable to relying on public transport. There are bike lanes on all main roads in Beijing, although these are filled with several thousand cyclists during rush hours. Bicycles can be rented from hotels, including the Crowne Plaza Hotel, Wangfujing Dajie (tel: (10) 6513 3388), for RMB20 per hour; the Peace Hotel, 3 Jingyu Hutong (tel: (10) 6512 8833), for RMB40 per half-day; and the Palace Hotel, Jingyu Hutong (tel: (10) 6512 8899), for RMB10 per hour but free for their guests. Shops tend to be cheaper but rates can vary greatly. A deposit is always required. When parking, bicycles must be left in the special bike parking areas, which are guarded and are very cheap (RMB0.20). Bringing one’s own cycle lock is recommended. Business Business Profile China’s economy is generally doing well despite the downturn elsewhere in East Asia, which seems to have had little effect on business here. Beijing’s Gross Domestic Product grew by 8.1% in the first few months of 2001, continuing on from the healthy growth of the previous year. Much of this is attributed to the Chinese spending more on housing and transportation. Retail sales have also increased during the same period – by 10.3%. The impact of China’s entry into the World Trade Organisation (WTO) at the end of 2001 has yet to be assessed. It took 15 years of negotiation for China to join the WTO giving it access to lucrative global markets, as well as opening up its own markets to foreign companies. In the short term, there could be widespread unemployment as the government ends its protectionism of its state-run industries and sharpens their competitive edge, which has already resulted in increased profits. In the long term, more jobs could be created as foreign companies invest in China, no longer having the frustration of years of red tape and uncertain profits. Many areas of China, especially in the western and central parts of the country, are struggling (often with dire human consequences) to adjust to the demands of the market economy introduced by the government in the 1980s but Beijing is still leading the country both economically and politically. A major factor in Beijing’s continuing prosperity is the city’s IT and telecommunications industry, which is the best developed in China: an infrastructure of more than one million kilometres of optic fibre within the city serves almost six million local telephone subscribers. One reason for the foreign business presence in Beijing is that it is a key entry point into China for foreign investors. The long list of premier international companies with a presence in Beijing includes Hewlett Packard, IBM, Microsoft, Fujitsu and Motorola. Shanghai and Shenzhen may contain China’s leading stock markets, but since all political directives still originate from the capital, it makes sense for overseas firms to be near the centre of Chinese power so as to have access to the key decision-makers and planners of the economy. Large international insurance companies, such as Sun Life Assurance, are now beginning to look at China with interest. The Chinese authorities estimate that 3.6% of Beijing’s seven million workforce is unemployed, however, this figure does not take into account the city’s population of rural migrants or those not working but still on the payroll of state-owned companies. Independent analysts say that if such workers are taken into account, the true number of unemployed is about 10% of the workforce or up to 700,000. Beijing’s key business districts are Chongwen in the east, close to the China World Trade Centre; and Wangfujing, just east of Tiananmen Square, which is where the Bank of China and the Xindongan Plaza, Beijing’s first indoor shopping mall, are located. Business Etiquette When it comes to conducting business in China, infinite patience is the key. To many foreign businesspeople, the protracted pleasantries at the beginning of each meeting, the drawn-out negotiations where each minor point is discussed at length and the seeming reluctance to close the deal can be very frustrating indeed. The only way to deal with this is to allow plenty of time for discussion and negotiations and ensure that every important condition is included in the contract as the Chinese will follow it strictly once business has been concluded. Chinese businesspeople are very formal and a smart, sober suit is a must, as is the all-important exchanging of business cards. When exchanging business cards, it is polite to use both hands to do so. Cards should be printed in English on one side and Chinese on the other. The person who extended the invitation should pay the bill for business meals. When visiting a business associate’s house, a modest gift, such as chocolates or any kind of flowers, is appropriate; visitors should avoid giving expensive gifts and giving money is considered an insult. Business hours are usually 0800-1700 weekdays, with one or two hours for lunch. Businesspeople visiting Beijing will find the monthly magazine, Business Beijing (website: www.cbw.com/busbj), of interest. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Over the centuries, Beijing has suffered the effects of war and revolution, large-scale industrialisation and a building boom to meet the demands of a growing, modern city. Skyscrapers loom over colourful temples and the intimate courtyards of the hutongs, while traffic crawls along the streets surrounding tranquil parks. Beijing used to be a walled city but little remains now apart from the grand Tiananmen and Qianmen gates, located at either end of Tiananmen Square. The imposing square is home to the Great Hall of the People, China’s parliament, the Mao Tse Tung Memorial Hall, where the body of Chairman Mao rests, and the Monument to the People’s Heroes, an obelisk depicting major events of the revolution. Beijing’s key attractions are listed below, but the city and its surrounds are historically and culturally rich. If time allows, it is worth including the Old Observatory on an itinerary. Established by Kublai Khan, it is now a museum with an extensive collection of Ming and Qing dynasty bronze astronomical instruments. The Beijing Zoo, of course, is the world-famous home of the giant pandas and merits a visit. Away from the centre, most visitors go to Badaling (see Excursions) to walk on the Great Wall but another section is Mutianyu, to the northeast of the city, which has spectacular views. It is worth including Zhou Kou Dian (Peking Man Site), 48km (30 miles) southwest of Beijing, the site where skulls dating back between 200,000 and 500,000 years were found in 1929. The original fossils were lost during World War II, but there is an interesting museum housing many implements and animal bones from that period. Tourist Information There is no walk-in tourist office in Beijing but information can be obtained from the two main travel agencies, the China International Travel Service and the China Travel Service. China International Travel Service (CITS) Fuxingmennei Avenue Tel: (10) 6601 1122 or 8292. Website: www.cits.net China Travel Service (CTS) 2 Beisanhaun East Road Tel: (10) 6462 2288. Website: www.ctsho.com There is also a 24-hour tourist telephone hotline (tel: (10) 6513 0828) for information and emergencies. Passes There are no tourist passes in Beijing. Key Attractions Tiananmen Square Located at the heart of modern Beijing – the scene of many historic events – Tiananmen Square was renovated during the first half of 1999, in preparation for the celebrations of the fiftieth anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic of China. It now has two green areas, trees and subtle ground-level lighting. Attractions in the square include the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall, where Mao Tse Tung’s preserved body is on display, the Museum of the Revolution and the Great Hall of the People. Transport: Subway Qian Men and several buses. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0830-1130, plus 1400-1600 Tues and Thurs (Chairman Mao Memorial Hall); daily 0830-1530 (Museum of the Revolution); varies for Great Hall of the People. Admission: Free (Chairman Mao Memorial Hall); RMB30 (Museum of the Revolution); RMB30 (Great Hall of the People). Forbidden City Built in the 15th century, the Forbidden City (or Palace Museum) is a vast complex of courtyards, halls, pavilions and gardens, which was home to 24 emperors from the Ming and Qing dynasties. It now houses a vast collection of priceless relics, including paintings, ancient pottery and bronzes, and is one of many UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the city. Tiananmen Square Tel: (10) 6513 2255. Website: www.dpm.org.cn Transport: Subway Qian Men. Opening hours: Daily 0830-1700 (10 Apr-14 Oct); 0830-1630 (15 Oct-31 Mar). Admission: RMB30. Temple of Heaven Just south of Tiananmen Square, the Temple of Heaven (located within Temple of Heaven Park), is China’s largest temple complex, built in the 15th century and used for prayer by the emperor to ask for good harvests. The architecture of the temple is exquisite and the roofs are covered with blue glazed tiles. The grounds of this UNESCO World Heritage Site also contain the Echo Wall, which carries the merest whisper. Tian Tan Lu (north gate entrance) Tel: (10) 6702 8866. Transport: Subway Qianmen. Opening hours: Daily 0830-1730; daily 0600-2000 (park). Admission: RMB15. Lama Temple Located in the northeast of the city, the Lama Temple, built in the late 17th century, used to be a centre of learning for the Yellow Hat sect of Tibetan Lamaism. Today, there are about 70 monks (or lamas) in residence. The temple consists of a series of halls, connected by courtyards. An impressive 18m (59ft) Maitreya, carved from a single sandalwood tree, stands in the furthermost hall, which is accessible to the public. Yonghe Gong Dajie Tel: (10) 6904 4494. Transport: Subway Yonghe Gong Opening hours: Daily 0900-1630. Admission: RMB20. Drum Tower and Bell Tower Every Chinese city once had drum and bell towers that were used to advise citizens of the time of day and announce curfews. The Beijing Drum Tower, in the north of the city, was originally built in the 13th century and reconstructed around 1420 when the Bell Tower was first built. The towers, which are quite different in style, offer good views across Beijing. Di’an Men Wai Dajie Transport: Subway Gulou Dajie. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1730. Admission: RMB10 each. Further Distractions Beihai Park Beihai Lake covers almost half of the 67-hectare (168-acre) Beihai Park and is a popular place for skating in winter and boating in summer. Qiong Hua Island (Jade Flowering Island), in the southern end of the lake, is reached by an arched marble bridge and is home to a Tibetan Buddhist shrine (the White Dagoba) and the Temple of Eternal Peace. Wenjin Jie Transport: Subway Tiananmen Xi. Opening hours: Daily 0600-2100 (park); daily 0900-1600 (halls and temples). Admission: RMB5 (park); RMB10 (park and temples). Jingshan (Prospect Park) Located immediately to the north of the Forbidden City, Jingshan contains a hill, known as Coal Hill, which enjoys superb views over the golden rooftops of the imperial buildings. One of the five pavilions on the summit –Wan Chun Ting (Pavilion of Ten Thousand Springs) – used to be the highest point in the city. Jingshan Qian Jie Transport: Subway Tiananmen Xi or Tiananmen Dong. Opening hours: Daily 0600-2130. Admission: RMB2. Tours of the City Bus Tours China International Travel Service (tel: (10) 6601 1122 or 8292; website: www.cits.net) and the China Travel Service (tel: (10) 6462 2288; website: www.ctsho.com) both offer full-day city tours with free pick-ups from many hotels. The Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven excursion lasts about eight hours and costs US$31 including lunch with China Travel Service (Monday, Wednesday and Friday) or U$44 with China International Travel Service (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday), although this also includes the Summer Palace. Excursions For a Half Day Tour of hutongs: These are ancient areas of housing where small single-storey dwellings arranged around courtyards form a maze of narrow streets. The ideal way to see the hutongs is by rickshaw or on foot. Taking along an English-speaking guide will ensure an opportunity to talk to the locals and maybe even see their homes. China Travel Service (tel: (10) 6462 2288; website: www.ctsho.com) and China International Travel Service (tel: (10) 6601 1122 or 8292; website: www.cits.net) arrange rickshaw tours lasting 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours with an English-speaking guide for US$22 per person. For a Whole Day Great Wall and Ming Tombs: The Great Wall, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, extends for thousands of miles across China, the nearest section to Beijing being at Badaling. The wall stretches between watchtowers and is wide enough for five horsemen. Badaling Great Wall (tel: (10) 6912 1483) is open daily (0900-1630) and admission is RMB35. The Ming Tombs are reached by the Spirit Way, which is guarded by huge statues of animals and men. The tombs are all open daily (times vary for each tomb but are generally 0800-1730) and admission is RMB30 for most tombs, apart from Ding Ling (RMB35) and the Spirit Way (RMB20). Thirteen of the Ming emperors were buried around the valley but only one of the actual underground burial chambers – at the Ding Ling tomb (tel: (10) 6076 1424) – is open to the public. It is best to go by taxi or on a coach tour with China Travel Service (tel: (10) 6462 2288; website: www.ctsho.com) or China International Travel Service (tel: (10) 6601 1122 or 8292; website: www.cits.net). Fragrant Hills: Located more than 28km (18 miles) to the northwest of Beijing and best reached by taxi, the Fragrant Hills (tel: (10) 6259 1155) are thickly wooded with pine trees and were popular with the emperors as a hunting ground. Pagodas, temples and pavilions can be found dotted around the park, which is open daily 0600-1800 and costs RMB5 to enter. The summit of the highest peak can be reached by a chair lift (RMB40 one way; RMB70 return). Summer Palace: The Summer Palace (tel: (10) 6288 1144) in the northwestern suburbs, was used by the royal court as a retreat to escape from the heat of the city and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The former imperial residences are located on the shores of Kunming Lake, which contains small islands, ornamental bridges and a marble boat that was once a teahouse. The Summer Palace is best reached by taxi. In summer, it is open daily 0630-1800 and admission costs RMB20; in the low season, it is open daily 0700-1730 but the entrance rises to RMB30. Sport Traditional sports have always been available throughout Beijing but over the past decade more modern international sports have become popular. Numerous go-karting circuits, baseball pitches and rock-climbing teams are to be found in the city, while tournaments for virtually every sport are held on a regular basis. In common with the rest of the world, football is very popular; the main football team in Beijing is Guo An, whose home is the Worker’s Stadium on Gongtibeilu. The team is in the Pepsi Cola Football League (www.fa.org.cn), together with the top 15 clubs in the country. Tickets can be bought at the stadium on the day or in person at ticket outlets in shopping centres and department stores. Tickets for some events can now be purchased from Webtix (tel: (10) 6592 8449 or 6594 9460; website: www.webtix.com.cn). Fitness centres: Many fitness centres are linked to hotels and have membership fees, however, Capital Gymnasium, 5 Baishi Qiao, Xizhimen Wai Dajie (tel: (10) 6833 5552), is open for badminton and table tennis, among other sports. The China World Fitness Centre at the China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie (tel: (10) 6505 2266), has a gym, swimming pool and squash courts. Golf: The Grand Canal club in the Tongzhou district of municipal Beijing (tel: (10) 8958 3058 or 8947 0005) and the Beijing Country Golf Club (tel: (10) 6940 1111) in Beijing’s Shunyi County both offer challenging courses and are within 45 minutes’ drive from downtown Beijing. Green fees are RMB500 on weekdays and RMB800 at weekends. Perhaps the best course in the Beijing area is the championship-standard International Club (tel: (10) 6974 6388 or 6076 2288). Its 7000-yard (6400-metre) course makes it suitable for only the most able players. Green fees are RMB650-1100. Swimming: Many hotels have swimming pools but use of the facilities is often restricted to hotel residents or members. The Friendship Hotel, 3 Baishiqiao Lu, Haidian (tel: (10) 6849 8888), has an outdoor pool, or the Olympic Sports Center, 1 Anding Lu (tel: (10) 6491 0468) also has a pool. Waterparks have arrived in China in a big way. There are a number around Beijing, including Qingnianhu Water Park, Qingnianhu Park (tel: (10) 6421 6321), and Lakeview Waterpark (tel: (10) 6966 1696), by Yanqi Lake in Huairou County. Tennis: Indoor and outdoor tennis courts are available at the Beijing Grand Canal Club, Hu Ge Zhuang, Tongzhou District (tel: (10) 8958 2988). Outdoor courts are also available at the Beijing International Club on Jianguomenwai (tel: (10) 6500 3941), Beijing Tennis Club, on Xiannongtan (tel: (10) 6317 5606), and Beijing International Centre, on Tiantan Donglu (tel: (10) 6714 2374). Shopping The opening up of Beijing to the west has had a profound impact on shopping. A wide range of consumer goods – both local and imported – are now available and there are many bargains to be found throughout the city. The main shopping area is around Wangfujing Dajie, where there are a number of department stores, including the Beijing Department Store, which primarily caters for the Chinese market. A number of shopping malls have upmarket and international shops. The best clothes shops are on Dong Dan Bei Dajie, as well as Silk Alley, Xiushui Dong Jie off Jianguomenwai Dajie, which also has silk stalls. Here, prices are displayed but it is worth bargaining. Just along the road is the famous Friendship Store, which has several floors of tourist souvenirs, laquerware, jewellery, carpets, clothes and Chinese tea. The long-established markets throughout the city now compete with a number of modern shopping malls, the most glamorous of which is the Lufthansa Centre, Liangma Qiao Lu, with its many international shops and snack bars. Another major shopping mall is the Xidan Shopping Centre, Xidan Bei Dajie, with shops selling a range of food, jewellery, electronic goods and clothes. Collectors of antiques should make for Liulichang, a few minutes’ walk south of Heping Men subway station. This market is crammed with ancient-style shops, reconstructed in a traditional way and stocking a bewildering array of antiques and curios. Note that antiques over 100 years old are marked with a red wax seal and an export licence must be issued in order to take them out of the country. The weekend market at Panjiayuan Jiuhuo Shichang is an enormous, open-air place with great bargains on items such as jade, wood panelling, pottery and bric-a-brac. Most shops are open daily 0900-2000. There is no sales tax in China. Culture Many Chinese art forms date back centuries but most struggled to survive following the Communist revolution of 1949. Artists were organised into associations, which meant that the Party controlled every aspect, both creative and administrative. Travelling theatre, music and dance groups were created to take the Party message to the masses together with teams of projectionists showing reels of ideological films. Plays written before the 1950s, films with human interest and the Beijing Opera were suppressed and their creators persecuted until the end of the Cultural Revolution in the 1970s. Now many pre-Cultural Revolution art forms are performed regularly, as well as modern versions, which celebrate ancient and current culture, as well as ethnic differences. As to be expected from a capital city, Beijing is leading the country’s cultural revival, and a crop of teahouses have recently reappeared in the capital that show a variety of Beijing Opera, martial arts and acrobatics and serve delicious selections of tea and cakes. Western influences have been embraced to transform traditional Chinese art forms into contemporary pieces and the theatrical scene is changing fast. A recent development has been a fashion for Chinese translations of Western plays, such as (most recently) Whose Wife is it Anyway, or home-grown dramatists experimenting with foreign styles, such as Absurdist theatre, or emulating influential playwrights, such as Samuel Beckett. In addition, Western music and dance is now performed, and the city often receives visits from international acts. The Beijing Concert Hall has a mix of Chinese and Western music, whereas the Zhengyici Theatre has mainly Chinese productions. Also worth seeing is traditional Chinese acrobatics, which have existed in China for two thousand years and cover anything from gymnastics and animal tricks to magic and juggling. The style may be vaudeville, but performances are spectacular, with truly awe-inspiring feats. Tickets for some events can now be purchased from Webtix (tel: (10) 6592 8449 or 6594 9460; website: www.webtix.com.cn). Music: The Beijing Concert Hall, 1 Bei Xinhua Jie (tel: (10) 6605 5812), just off Xi Chang’an Jie, is dedicated to classical music, with regular concerts by Beijing’s resident orchestra, as well as visiting orchestras from the rest of China and overseas. Beijing Opera is still very popular and the best place to see it is Zhengyici Theatre, 220 Qian Men Xi He Yan Jie (tel: (10) 6303 3104), a short walk from Heping Men subway station. Built in the 17th century, the theatre was originally a Ming Dynasty temple before being converted by some of the founding artists of the Beijing Opera company. Nightly performances also take place at 1930 at the Liyuan Theatre in the Jianguo Hotel, 175 Yongan Road. Theatre: Spoken drama was only introduced into Chinese theatres this century. The People’s Art Theatre in Beijing became its best-known home and, before the Cultural Revolution, staged European plays that had a clear social message. The last decade has seen a total turnabout, with the People’s Art Theatre, reassembled in 1979, establishing its reputation with a performance of Arthur Miller’s Death of a Salesman. They and other companies perform at the Beijing People’s Art Theatre, (in the Capital Theatre), 22 Wangfujing Dajie (tel: (10) 6513 5801). Theatre will receive a big boost in Beijing in 2003 when China’s first National Theatre will open at Xi Chang’an Jie, just west of the Great Hall of the People. Teahouses: Traditional theatre, such as story-telling to musical accompaniment, magic shows and acrobatics, takes place daily at the Lao She Chaguan, 2nd Floor, Da Wancha Building, 3 Qian Men Xi Jie (tel: (10) 6303 6830), and at the Tianqiao Happy Teahouse, 113 Tianqiao Nandajie (tel: (10) 6303 9013). Acrobatics: The most popular venue is the Wan Sheng Theatre, Bei Wei Lu, just west of the Tianqiao Happy Teahouse (tel: (10) 6303 7449). There are also nightly shows at the Chaoyang Theatre, 36 Dong San Huan Bei Lu (tel: (10) 6507 2421), and Universal Theater, 10 Dongzhimennan Dajie (tel: (10) 6502 3984). Performances at all venues start at 1915. Film: Many cinemas in Beijing are dedicated to feeding a seemingly insatiable appetite for kung fu movies, although there is plenty of opportunity to catch the serious and fairly controversial movies emerging from a new wave of younger film-makers. Foreign films are mainly dubbed and carefully censored by the authorities before they are put on general release. A popular, central cinema is the Capital Cinema, 46 Xi Chang’an Jie (tel: (10) 6605 5510). The Sun Dong An Cinema City, 138 Wangfujing Dajie (tel: (10) 6528 1988), shows major films from the USA. Beijing’s appeal for film directors as a sweeping, cinematic panaroma was most brilliantly demonstrated by Bernardo Bertolucci in his famous 1987 epic, The Last Emperor. Set in an old Beijing bathhouse, which is threatened by developers who want to turn it into a shopping complex, Zhang Yang’s 1999 film, Shower, epitomises the tension between tradition and the dictates of commerce in contemporary Beijing. Farewell My Concubine (1993) is a stunning epic spanning half a century of modern Chinese history including the Cultural Revolution and is about the relationship between two friends growing up in the world of Beijing Opera. It was a triumph internationally for the director Chen Kaige. An extremely funny film set in modern-day Beijing is Sorry Baby (1999) directed by Feng Xiao Gang, about a feud between a wealthy businessman and his driver. Cultural events: The Chinese New Year, which takes place either in late January or early February, is the most important festival of the year. The build-up to the festival is as frenzied as Christmas is in the West, with parties, the exchanging of gifts, and streets and houses decorated with lights. Most Chinese celebrate the start of the New Year with their families. The Mid-Autumn Festival in September or early October is celebrated by displaying lanterns in various shapes, such as animals, and by eating moon cakes made of ground lotus, sesame and egg. Literary Notes There is a good joke in the most recent novel by the Chinese-American writer, Amy Tan – The Bonesetter’s Daughter (2001). A Chinese character in the book gives the following dismissive appraisal to a Westerner who is enthralled by Beijing’s Forbidden City: ‘In those day, so many thing forbidden, can’t see. Now everyone pay money see forbidden thing. You say this forbidden that forbidden, charge extra.’ This epitomises much of the current Chinese attitude towards Beijing where reverence towards the city because of its history and tradition is put very much to the effort of making money. Numerous highly acclaimed contemporary works of fiction that explore China’s tumultuous history and the impact of the Cultural Revolution have become international bestsellers, notably Half of Man is Woman (1985), an autobiographical account of life in a labour camp by Zhang Xiangliang. Heralded as the Chinese Milan Kundera, Xianliang was born in Nanjing in 1936 and educated in Beijing. Other celebrated novels include Wild Swans (1991) by Jung Chan and Amy Tan’s The Joy Luck Club (1989). Lu Xun (1881-1936) is celebrated as the father of modern Chinese literature. His story, A Madman’s Diary (1918), is considered the first story written in modern, colloquial Chinese – namely in the language spoken by the masses as opposed to the classic literary language. Lu Xun embraced the early Communist movement and is still regarded as a hero by the authorities. The small house he inhabited in Beijing from 1912 to 1926 can be seen next to a museum (open Tues-Sun 0900-1530) dedicated to his life and work at a hutong just off Fucheng Men Dajie, near Fucheng Men subway station. However, for a contemporary Beijing-based writer who marks a break from the serious tradition of political and social responsibility favoured by the Communist Party, there is Wang Shuo. Dubbed the ‘Chinese Jack Kerouac’ for his sharp mockery of almost every aspect of Chinese life, delivered in a savvy Beijing slang, his novel Please Don’t Call Me Human (1989) is perhaps the best introduction to his work for foreign readers. Written in the aftermath of the Tiananmen massacre, the book wickedly lampoons the state security apparatus and its need to bend the individual into serving the interests of the nation. Nightlife Beijing’s nightlife and entertainment scene is currently undergoing something of a revolution, as modern Beijingers, who suddenly find themselves with a disposable income and living through comparatively liberal times, seek out new outlets for having fun. Throughout the 1990s, numerous new nightclubs were set up to cater for a chic and affluent clientele and new ones continue to open all the time. The music at these Western-style clubs covers a wide range, with techno and house being hugely popular with both tourists and locals. Many nightclubs are open every night until the small hours of the morning and charge an entrance fee of RMB100-200. The most popular bar area (heavily frequented by foreigners) is Sanlitun, in the northeast of the city. The bars here all offer draught beer at Western prices, and are generally much livelier than any of the hotel bars. Other places can be found on Xinjiang Kou, a street full of restaurants, which is the place to go on hot summer nights. Most bars open until about midnight but are liveliest around 2200. Details of events (including gigs) are listed in the city’s guide Beijing This Month (website: www.cbw.com/btm) or on the Xianzai Beijing website (www.xianzai.com). China Now (website: www.chinanow.com) also lists bars, clubs and live music venues and the Beijing entertainment guide, City Weekend (website: www.cityweekend.com.cn), has listings and is published every two weeks. Bars: Situated in Tuanjiehu Park is the ever-popular Old Poachers Inn, 7 Sanlitun Lu. Deservedly Beijing’s best-known bar, this ex-pat watering hole is more English than most pubs in England, however, it is accessible, casual and cosy. It is very popular on Thursdays, when a jazz band plays, and on Friday and Saturday when the attached club holds a disco. Durty Nellie’s is a friendly Irish pub on Sanlitun Lu with live music and great beer. Sgt Pepper’s, situated at the west gate of Chaoyang Park, is a chilled-out place to relax with a rooftop beer garden and pool table. Very popular with ex-pats is the Goose and Duck Pub, again at the west gate of Chaoyang Park, which has a beer garden out front. The Pig and Thistle, Holiday Inn Lido, Jichang Lu, is another English-style pub. Casinos: Casinos are illegal in China. Clubs: One of the newest nightclubs in Beijing is the Heaven Star, Jianguomennei, which has a huge dance floor and a quieter bar. Beijing’s most chic club is JJ’s, Xinjiekou Bei Dajie, a cavernous club featuring lasers, a sci-fi theme and scantily clad Russian dancing girls; imported British DJs play a mixture of techno, reggae and house. Kiss Super Club, 35 Xue Yun Lu, is an enormous club with two dance floors and a booming sound system pumping out house and techno. Orange, 2-10 Xingfu Yicun, across from the Workers’ Stadium north gate, is a relatively new club making a big impact with its retro interior. Resident and guest DJs play mainly techno and trance with some hip hop. Neo Lounge, 99 Xingfu Cun Zhong, Chaoyang District, is a sleek, elegant club with minimalist decor featuring house, trance and hip hop. Live music: Live bands perform nightly at the May Flower Bar, Chang’an Boulevard, playing mainly pop songs in Chinese, occasionally English. The CD Café, East Third Ring Road, was once devoted to jazz but now offers more underground music. Offering a more authentic experience, the Sanwei Bookstore, 60 Fuxingmennei Dajie, features light jazz and Chinese folk music and is popular with ex-pats and arty Chinese. City Statistics Location: Beijing special municipality, China. Country dialling code: 86. Population: 12,700,000 (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: 92% Han Chinese; with 55 ethnic groups making up the remaining 8% of the population. Religion: Buddhist, Taoist, Islam, Catholic and Protestant. Time zone: GMT + 8 (GMT + 7 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: - 3°C (27°F). Average July temp: 26°C (79°F). Annual rainfall: 890mm (34.7 inches). Special Events Chinese New Year, 1 Feb 2003, throughout the city International Women’s Day, 8 Mar, throughout the city Beijing International Kite Festival, Apr, various venues ‘Meet in Beijing’ Arts Festival, Apr/May, various venues International Labour Day, 1 May, throughout the city Anniversary of the Founding of the Chinese Communist Party, 1 Jul, throughout the city Anniversary of Founding of People’s Liberation Army, 1 Aug, throughout the city Beijing Chaoyang International Beer Festival, mid-late Sep 2002, Workers’ Stadium Mid-Autumn Festival, late Sep, throughout the city National Day, 1 Oct, throughout the city Beijing International Marathon, mid-Oct, city centre Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: RMB2 33cl bottle of beer: RMB3-5 Financial Times newspaper: RMB25 36-exposure colour film: RMB18-26 City-centre bus ticket: RMB1-2 Adult football ticket: RMB20-150 Three-course meal with wine/beer: From RMB90 1 Renminbi (or Yuan) RMB1 = £0.08; US$0.12; C$0.18; A$0.20; €0.11 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.