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USACity Overview The European Parliament has found its ideal home in Brussels (Bruxelles in French, Brussel in Flemish). This inland capital city of Belgium, bordered by The Netherlands, Germany, Luxembourg and France, it is a multi-cultural and multi-lingual city at the very heart of Europe. Already a thriving trade centre by the Middle Ages, the Bruxellois have inherited the wisdom of ancestors who lived under Roman, Spanish, Austrian, French, Dutch and German domination – winning independence only in 1830. Today, Brussels boasts a highly skilled and adaptable workforce. Despite the population of Belgium numbering only 10.2 million, with Brussels itself just 970,000-strong, the Bruxellois have the ability to compensate for their small numbers with skilled diplomacy, compromise and negotiation. These striking traits are followed closely by a highly intellectual and off-beat sense of humour, underpinned by a strong sense of the bizarre. This may help explain why the Surrealist movement, pioneered by René Magritte, took off in Brussels. A playful and irreverent reaction to life is also revealed in the Belgian love affair with the comic strip, popularised worldwide with Hergé’s boy hero, Tintin. Language is a complex and serious issue in bilingual (French and Flemish) Brussels, as well as being the focus of communal tensions. The issue is further complicated by the fact that the common language of one third of the resident population is often English. However, the fierce linguistic debate takes a lighter form, with constant puns and word games forming a complex web. While a top-notch restaurant is called Comme Chez Soi (Just Like Home), a less prestigious establishment calls itself Comme Chez Moi (Just Like My Home), with more than a twist of irony. Yet the image of the city suffers abroad, due to its very diversity, as well as the self-effacing nature of its quirky inhabitants, too modest to blow their own trumpet. Brussels has no symbol to rival the skyscraping Eiffel Tower, aside from the famed Manneken-Pis, a statuette of a urinating boy. The first visit to Brussels, uncoloured by expectations, is therefore all the more rewarding. Narrow cobbled streets open suddenly into the breathtaking Grand-Place, with its ornate guildhouses, impressive Town Hall and buzzing atmosphere. It would be difficult to find a more beautiful square in the whole of Europe. Bars, restaurants and museums are clustered within the compact city centre, enclosed within the petit ring, which follows the path of the 14th-century city walls. The medieval city is clearly defined by its narrow, labyrinthine streets, making it is easy to distinguish the later additions, such as Léopold II’s Parisian-style boulevards – Belliard and La Loi – today lined with embassies, banks and the grand apartments of the bourgeoisie and close to the glitzy new EU quarter. The working class still congregate in the Marolles district, in the shadow of the Palais de Justice, although this area is on the up-and-up. New immigrant communities are settling in the rundown area around the Gare du Nord. Neighbouring communes, St-Gilles and Ixelles, draw an arty crowd with their ‘in’ shops and restaurants. These are worth the trek, if only to glimpse some of Brussels’ finest Art Nouveau buildings, the style being developed by Bruxellois Victor Horta, the son of a shoemaker. With a pleasant temperate climate – warm summers and mild winters – and a host of sights and delights to entertain, Brussels offers far more than just beer and chocolate (although excelling in both). In 2003, the city intends to celebrate its diversity – from its rich architecture to native hero and lyrical singer Jacques Brel – through a series of cultural events, festivals and restoration schemes. Language Brussels has two official languages: French and Flemish. All street names are bilingual: owing to space restrictions in this guide, only the French appears in the main body of the text. However, the region is largely (about 90%) French-speaking, a trend increasing as the grip of the EU tightens. Commuters increase the percentage of Flemish speakers during the day, but in the evening, the city settles down to speak French. French is spoken with a distinctive accent and vocabulary, enriched with a peppering of English and Flemish words. The Flemish spoken differs from Dutch largely in terms of pronunciation. The Bruxellois dialect Bruesselse Sproek or Marollien is a rich medley of Flemish and French, some Spanish and even Hebrew. Hence ‘toffe’ from the Hebrew ‘tov’ means good. Certain colloquial phrases are baffling to all but locals – ‘non peut-être’ (literally translated as ‘no maybe’) actually means ‘yes, definitely’ and ‘Ça, t’as vu!’ (literally translated as ‘did you see that!’) means ‘no, not at all!’ English is increasingly becoming the accepted language for business, not only because of multinationals or the presence of ex-pats, but simply because it is a neutral language. Some signposts even appear in Latin. Phrases French is given first with Flemish in brackets Yes - Oui (Ja) No - Non (Neen) Hello - Bonjour (Dag) Goodbye - Au revoir (Tot ziens) Please - S’il vous plaît (alstublief) Thank you - Merci (Dank U) My name is … - Je m’appelle … (Mijn naam is …) How are you? - Comment ça va? (Hoe gaat het?) I’m very well - Ça va bien (Het gaat goed) I feel ill - Je ne me sens pas bien (Ik voel me niet well) How much does it cost? - Combien est-ce que ça coûte? (Hoeveel kost het?) Do you speak English - Est-ce que vous parlez anglais? (Spreekt u engels?) I don’t understand - Je ne comprends pas (Ik verstaat niet) Where is …? - Où est …? (Waar is …?) Entrance - Entrée (Ingang) Exit - Sortie (Uitgang) Danger - Danger (Gevaar) Open - Ouvert (Open) Closed - Fermé (Gesloten) Toilets - Toilettes (Toiletten) Doctor - Docteur (Docteur) Hotel - Hôtel (Hotel) Restaurant - Restaurant (Restaurant) Beer - Bière (Bier) Wine - Vin (Wijn) Menu - Menu (Menu) Today - Aujourd’hui (Vandaag) Tomorrow - Demain (Morgen) Monday - Lundi (Maandag) Tuesday - Mardi (Dinsdag) Wednesday - Mercredi (Woensdag) Thursday - Jeudi (Donderdag) Friday - Vendredi (Vrijdag) Saturday - Samedi (Zaterdag) Sunday - Dimanche (Zondag) One - Un / Une (Een) Two - Deux (Twee) Three - Trois (Drie) Four - Quatre (Vier) Five - Cinq (Vijf) Six - Six (Zes) Seven - Sept (Zeven) Eight - Huit (Acht) Nine - Neuf (Negen) Ten - Dix (Tien) Twenty - Vingt (Twintig) Thirty - Trente (Dertig) Forty - Quarante (Viertig) Fifty - Cinquante (Viftig) Sixty - Soixante (Zestig) Seventy - Soixante-dix (Zeventig) Eighty - Quatre-vingt (Tachtig) Ninety - Nonante (Negentig) One Hundred - Cent (Honderd) One Thousand - Mille (Duizend) Getting There By Air Brussels Zaventem (BRU) Tel: (0900) 70000, for flight information. Fax: (02) 753 4250. Website: www.brusselsairport.be Brussels’ airport, operated by Brussels International Airport Company – BIAC (tel: (02) 753 4200), is situated 12km (eight miles) northeast of Brussels, offering flights to over 150 destinations worldwide. The number of passengers using the airport in 2001 peaked between July and September when over 20 million passengers passed through Brussels Airport. However, since September 11 and the subsequent bankruptcy of Sabena Airlines, the airport is suffering from fewer connections, particularly long haul. Major airlines: Sabena Airlines, Belgium’s flagship carrier, was a casualty of September 11 – its replacement is SN Brussels Airlines (tel: (02) 723 2323; website: www.brusselairlines.com), which has taken on most of the routes. Currently, the two largest Belgian-based airlines are SN Brussels Airlines and Virgin Express (tel. (02) 752 0511; website: www.virgin-express.com). SN Brussels Airlines serves 36 European destinations and from 26 April 2002, 11 African destinations, while Virgin Express operates flights to 15 destinations across Europe – new routes for 2002 include Lisbon and Athens. Other major airlines include Alitalia, American Airlines, British Airways, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines and United Airlines. Airport facilities: These include post office and medical facilities, bank and bureaux de change, ATMs, bars, restaurants, shops, tourist information and car hire from Avis, Budget, Europcar and Hertz. Business facilities: The Skyport Corporate Meeting Centre (tel: (02) 714 0200; fax: (02) 714 0201) is located on the fourth-floor mezzanine level and offers eight small meeting rooms and secretarial services. Transport to the city: A new route (as of 1 July 2002), the Airport Line bus service, operated by MIVB/STIB (tel: (02) 515 2000; website: www.stib.irisnet.be), runs twice hourly (the service will be increased to three or four departures per hour as of 1 September 2002), 0457-2357. The cost of a journey into the city centre costs €3 (journey time – 40 minutes). The De Lijn bus (tel: (01) 631 3737) operates every 45 minutes to the city centre (journey time – 40 minutes). The STIB Airport City Express trains to the city (journey time – 15 minutes) depart every 15 minutes to Brussels’ three main stations – Gare Centrale, Gare du Nord and Gare du Midi. A first-class one-way ticket costs €3.70, while a second-class ticket costs €2.40. Services operate 0600-2400. Taxis to the centre cost about €30. Hotel courtesy coaches go to the Holiday Inn, Novotel and Sofitel. Brussels South Charleroi Airport (CRL) Tel: (07) 125 1211. Fax: (07) 125 1202 Website: www.charleroi-airport.com Brussels’ second and smaller airport is located 55km (37 miles) south of Brussels, in Charleroi – a one-hour drive from Lille, in the North of France. The privately owned airport, which belongs to the Walloon region and private investors, is an international airport for passenger and freight traffic, a test and training flight base for aeronautical industry and a centre for general and business aviation. The acknowledged training centre of all Belgian airlines, Belgian Flight School, is also based here. Ryanair serves London, Channon, Dublin, Glasgow, Venice, Carcassonne and, as from 27 June 2002, Rome and Liverpool. Major airlines: Ryanair (website: www.ryanair.com) operates most passenger flights to and from Charleroi Airport. Airport facilities: Facilities include bars, shops, lost property, a bank and duty-free shop. Car hire is available from Hertz. Avis (tel: (07) 132 3535) and All Top Rent a Car (tel: (07) 132 3334) are based in Charleroi and will deliver cars to the airport. Business facilities: There is a first class lounge available in the terminal. Transport to the city: The MIVB/STIB (tel: (02) 515 2000; website: www.stib.irisnet.be) bus no 68 runs from Charleroi Airport to the nearby Charleroi train station (journey time – 10 minutes) weekdays 0600-2330 (weekends 0620-2230). From there, a frequent SNCB (tel: (02) 528 2828; website: www.sncb.be) train service connects to Brussels’ main stations, 0500-2400 (journey time – 45 minutes). Tickets cost €10. The door-to-door Airport Transfer Service (tel: (04) 7342 9490; e-mail: cromexa@yahoo.fr; website: www.cromexa.be) costs between €10-25. Taxis also run to central Brussels, costing €85 (journey time – 40 minutes). Approximate flight times to Brussels: From London is 55 minutes; from New York is 10 hours; from Los Angeles is 16 hours; from Toronto is 7 hours 45 minutes and from Sydney is 27 hours. Arrival/departure tax: €12.89 departure tax and €6.20 transfer tax is charged at Brussels International Airport. Getting There By Road Traffic drives on the right. Main towns are connected by toll-free motorways. Motorways are signposted with a white ‘E’ on a green background, major roads with an ‘N’ and minor roads with a ‘P’. The speed limit on motorways and dual carriageways is 120kph (75mph), on single carriageways outside built-up areas is 90kph (56mph) and in built-up areas is 50kph (31mph). A valid national driving licence is required and national stickers must be displayed. EU nationals taking their own cars to Belgium are strongly advised to obtain a Green Card. The minimum driving age is 18 years. Children under 12 are forbidden to travel in the front seat without a child restraint. Seatbelts must be worn in the front and back of vehicles. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%. Driving licences will be withdrawn for at least six hours if the breathalyser test is positive. A warning triangle must be displayed at the scene of a breakdown or accident. After paying a membership fee and subscription, at the site of the breakdown, services can be obtained from the Royal Automobile Club de Belgique, Rue d’Arlon 53 (tel: (02) 287 0911/12; website: www.racb.com), or Touring Club de Belgique, Rue de la Loi 44 (tel: (02) 233 2211; website: www.touring.be). The latter has a reciprocal agreement with the AA, while VTB VAB Auto Assistance, 100 Rue Pastoor Coplaan, Zwijndrecht (tel: (03) 253 6101), has a reciprocal agreement with the RAC. Emergency breakdown services: Royal Automobile Club de Belgique (02) 287 0900 or (078) 152 000 Touring Club de Belgique (070) 344 777 VTB VAB (070) 344 666 Routes to the city: The extensive motorway ring road around Brussels offers easy access to the city centre. Routes E19 and A12 lead north to Antwerp (from there E19 continues over the border toward Rotterdam and Amsterdam in The Netherdlands). Route E19 also extends south to Paris, becoming E15. Route E40 links Brussels with Ghent – from there, Ostend is reachable via route E17. Route E411 links Brussels to Namur and route E40 to Liège, continuing east over the border toward Cologne, from where the E35 heads toward Frankfurt. Approximate driving times to Brussels: From Antwerp – 35 minutes; from Ghent – 45 minutes; from Ostend – 1 hour 20 minutes; from Namur – 45 minutes; from Liège – 50 minutes; from Amsterdam – 2 hours 25 minutes; from Paris – 3 hours 20 minutes; from Frankfurt – 4 hours 15 minutes. Coach services: Several companies provide bus services to nearby Belgian cities – all are much slower than the equivalent train routes. De Lijn (tel: (02) 526 2828) operates buses between Brussels and the surrounding Flemish-speaking communities, while TEC (tel: (010) 235 353) provides a similar service to the French-speaking communities. Most buses depart from Gare du Nord, although some depart from Place Rouppe, in the Marolles district. There is a general enquiries line (tel: (02) 5151 2000). Eurolines (tel: (02) 274 1350; website: www.eurolines.com) operate international services to major European destinations, from Noord I, CCN Noordstation, Gare Routiere, Vooruitgangstraat 80 (tel: (02) 274 1350), Noord II, Solvayplein 4-Place Solvay 4 (tel: (02) 274 1350) and Zuid, Avenue Fonsnylaan 13 (tel: (02) 538 2049). Getting There By Rail Some nine billion Euro are being pumped into the Belgian National Railways – SNCB/NMBS (tel: (02) 528 2828; website: www.b-rail.be), in a ten-year modernisation plan, due for completion in 2005. The service is fast and very efficient. There are three major railway stations in Brussels – Bruxelles-Central, in the heart of the city, Bruxelles-Nord, to the north of the main ring road, and Bruxelles-Midi, to the south. They share a rail enquiries line (tel: (02) 555 2555). All three stations have bars, refreshments and disabled access, while Bruxelles-Midi and Bruxelles-Nord both have car parks. Rail services: Most domestic trains stop at all three stations. Eurostar trains (tel: (02) 528 2828; website: www.eurostar.com) from London and Thalys express trains (tel: (070) 667 788; website: www.thalys.com) from Aachen, Amsterdam, Cologne and Paris stop at Bruxelles-Midi, the TGV (High-Speed Train) terminal. Links to Paris (journey time – 1 hour 30 minutes) and London (journey time – 2 hours 40 minutes) are fast and efficient. Transport to the city: All three stations are on the métro – Bruxelles-Midi and Bruxelles-Nord have a direct connection to Bruxelles-Central, as well as to other cities and the airport. Getting Around Public Transport The integrated bus, overground and underground (prémétro) tram and métro network is operated by Société des Transports Intercommunaux Bruxellois, known as STIB (tel: (02) 515 2000; website: www.stib.irisnet.be). The system operates 0600-2400. Although efficient and extremely clean, the network is not without its problems – plans to replace the underground trams with an extended métro system have yet to materialise. However, improvements for 2002 include the addition of lifts for handicapped passengers – at, Maelbeek, De Brouckère and Gare-Centrale stations. STIB information points are located at Porte de Namur, Rogier and Midi métro stations. Above ground, the métro is identified by a sign bearing a white ‘M’ on a blue background. Many stations display the works of local artists and métro seats are soft and comfortable, the service is pleasant even during rush hour (0730-0930 and 1600-1830). Métro lines 1A and1B form a giant ‘H’ shape. Métro line IA runs northwest to southeast, from Roi Baudouin to Herrmann-Debroux. Line 1B runs southwest to northeast, from Bizet to Stockel. Lines 1A and 1B join in the middle, running along the same lines from Beekhant to Merode, to serve the central part of the city. The incomplete circle of line 2, from Simonis to Clemenceau, follows the inner ring road underground. Tram and bus stops are indicated by red and white signs respectively. The route number and destination are displayed on the front of the vehicle and all stops are request stops. Brussels’ bright yellow and blue trams serve the city centre and suburbs. The trams reach their highest speeds underground – the prémétro runs south, underneath the heart of the city from Gare du Nord, stopping at Place de Brouckère and Bourse, and Bruxelles-Midi (Eurostar terminal). Some services run on to St-Gilles and Albert. Tickets for the transport network can be bought at métro stations and many newsagents. The tourist reception desk at Rue du Marché-aux-Herbes 63, and at the TIB at the Town Hall in Grand-Place sell day transport tickets (see below) and give out free maps of the network – also available at most métro stations. Tickets should be stamped at the métro ticket barrier, either prior to or upon boarding the bus or tram. Bus and overground tram tickets may also be purchased prior to or upon board the vehicle (exact change is required for the latter). Once purchased, the ticket is valid for any form of public transport, including changes. One-hour tickets (la carte d’une voyage) cost €1.40, while ten (hour-long) journey tickets (la carte de dix voyages) cost €9. A one-day pass (la carte d’un jour) costs €3.60 and is valid for two persons at weekends and bank holidays. In addition to the STIB network, Belgian National Railways (see Rail) local trains depart from Bruxelles-Chapelle, Bruxelles-Quartier Léopold, Bruxelles-Schuman and Bruxelles-Congrès, linking the inner city to the suburbs. Taxis Autolux (tel: (02) 411 1221) are the official taxis in Brussels. These are marked with a blue and yellow plaque and travel from Brussels Airport to the required destination in the city. In central Brussels, taxis are available at centrally located ranks at the major railway stations and at the Bourse, Place de Brouckère and Porte de Namur. Alternatively, radio taxi companies are available to order by telephone. These include Taxi Verts (tel: (02) 349 4949) and Taxi Orange (tel: (02) 349 4343). The minimum fares are €2.35 in the daytime and €4.21 at night. Trips cost €0.99 per kilometre and there is an additional €19.83 per hour for waiting. However, no charge is made for luggage. A €1 or €2 tip is acceptable. Limousines Ganax (tel: (02) 720 4167; fax: (02) 720 4695), Brugstraat 24, 1930 Zaventem, located close to the airport, offers a limousine service. Hire for one day, including a trilingual chauffeur, costs €428.54. Driving in the City Although commuter traffic is heavy on the outskirts of Brussels during rush hour (0730-0930 and 1600-1830), the centre is relatively easy to negotiate once the one-way system has been mastered. In addition to car parks located in the city centre, there is pay-and-display parking – accepting €0.20, €0.5, €0.10, €1 and €2 coins – in certain streets. The rules for their use vary according to the time of day. There also is a large public car park under the Novotel Hotel, Rue de la Montagne. Parking rates are €12 for half a day, €2.50 for two hours and €1 for an hour. Rates apply Monday-Saturday 0900-1300 and 1430-1900, with free parking available on Sunday and holidays. Car Hire Car hire is available to drivers of 23 years and over, who have held a licence for at least one year, on presentation of a passport or identity card and valid driving licence. All the major providers are present at Brussels Airport. Other locations throughout the city include Avis, at the Brussels Hilton (tel: (02) 720 0944; website: www.avis.com), Budget Rent-a-Car, at Avenue Louise 327 (tel: (02) 753 2170; website: www.budget.com), Europcar, at Bruxelles-Midi and Chaussée de Waterloo 538 (tel: (02) 721 0592; website: www.europcar.com), and Hertz, at Bruxelles-Midi, Boulevard Lemonnier 8 and Chaussée de Vleurgat 210 (tel: (02) 524 3100 or 513 2886 or 649 0015; website: www.hertz.com). Prices for a day’s hire start at around €70 for a small car, rising to €669 for the largest vehicles. Third Party Liability insurance should be covered by the hire rates, however, those hiring a car should always check this. Bicycle Hire Pro Vélo, Rue de Londres 15 (tel: (02) 502 7355; fax: (02) 502 8641), offers bicycles for hire at a cost of €20 for a weekend or €12 for a day, as well as guided themed tours, costing €14 for half a day. Business Business Profile Although Brussels accounts for just 0.5% of Belgium’s surface area and has a population of under one million, the region generates 15% of the nation’s Gross National Product. However, Brussels’ unemployment level remains relatively high at 16% against 10.8% on a national level in 2000, showing an increase compared to 1999 figures (Brussels 13.5%, Belgium 8.6%). This perhaps is explained by the fact that two thirds of Belgium’s 40,000-strong asylum seekers are in Brussels and, since 2000 regulations, this population has been entitled to seek work. A further explanation rests on the nature of employment available in Brussels, which relies on a highly skilled, technically proficient and multi-lingual workforce. In this environment, the less skilled find it difficult to slot in. One third of Brussels’ labour market comes from the international community, of which 65% are from the European Union. Most Belgian companies are based in the capital, including the Glaverbel, Solvay and SN Brussels Airlines. The strategic centre of the European Union, Brussels also plays host to NATO. The presence of these international organisations, combined with Brussels’ geographic location at the heart of Europe, excellent transport infrastructure, highly trained multi-lingual workforce and favourable fiscal regimes, draws nearly 2,000 foreign companies to Brussels, including 1,400 American companies and over 1,000 international associations. The presence of some 60 foreign banks has contributed to making Brussels the world’s seventh biggest financial market. Along with American companies, France, Germany, Sweden, the United Kingdom, Switzerland and Japan also have strong financial links with Brussels. Foreign companies with a presence in the city include AT&T, IBM, Sony, Toyota, Procter & Gamble, Hewlett Packard, Volkswagen and PriceWaterhouse-Coopers. The tertiary sector accounts for nearly 80% of all jobs – in various fields such as banking and financial services, tourism and transport. Nonetheless, Brussels remains the nation’s second most important industrial centre after Antwerp. Industry is increasingly specialised in high-tech sectors and accounts for 15% of employment. There are several major business districts. The city centre is where the Belgian financial groups – such as the FORTIS and BBL – and government ministries are based. The Espace Nord is much favoured by public administrators and private-sector companies, such as Belgacom, Bankcard Company and The World Trade Center. The Louise area is occupied by national and international companies, while the coveted Léopold area is dominated by the European Parliament. Brussels’ international flavour is also evident in the numerous diplomatic missions present and the city welcomes nearly 16,000 business congresses annually. Nearly a third of the capital’s population is made up of foreigners, giving Brussels a truly cosmopolitan flair. Business Etiquette A certain degree of business formality is expected in Brussels. It is wise for business visitors to confirm meetings in writing and arrive punctually, armed with business cards and wearing a suit – with a tie for men. Companies are hierarchical and as many managing directors do not delegate, it is advisable to go straight to the top. Standard office hours are Monday to Friday 0830-1730. On introduction, one should address colleagues with their surname, respecting any professional or academic qualifications. English is the standard language of business. Personal relationships are important, so relaxed lunch meetings help develop trust – a stage that must be reached before decisions are made. In Brussels, it is common for business colleagues to be invited for an apéritif, followed by dinner at a nice restaurant, although usually not at the first meeting. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview With the exception of Grand-Place and the narrow streets nearby, sightseeing in Brussels is relatively crowd free. From a choice of some 70 museums, the visitor can view a favourite Rubens or Magritte, free from queues and crowds. All museums have bilingual labelling (French and Flemish). English is not always used, although English-language leaflets are often available. In recent years, signposting of Brussels’ top museums and major monuments has been improved, making sightseeing even easier. The icing on the cake is the opening of a new tourism centre in the beautiful Galeries Saint Hubert, in December 2002. The historic centre around Grand-Place – easily covered on foot – is home to a cluster of alluring museums, including museums dedicated to beer, chocolate and lace-making. Certain sights and sensations are obligatory, such as glimpsing the trickle of water flowing from the Manneken-Pis and stroking the bronze statue of the ghoulish Charles-Everard de T’Serclaes – said to bring good luck. However, the city has much more to offer. The public transport system works well enough to safely deposit the walk-weary tourist in Brussels’ distinct districts: the modern Quartier des Institutions Européennes; aristocratic Sablon, near the Place Royal; vibrant working class Marolles, south of Grand-Place; St-Gilles, with its splendid examples of Victor Horta’s Art Nouveau architecture; and Heysel, far out to the northwest, with its memories of the triumph of the 1958 Exhibition and the tragedy of the Heysel stadium disaster. Tourist Information Brussels International Tourism and Congress (BITC) Hôtel de Ville, Grand-Place Tel: (02) 513 8940. Fax: (02) 513 8320. E-mail: tourism-brussels@tib.be Website: www.bruxelles.irisnet.be Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (April-Dec), Mon-Sat 0900-1800 (Dec to Mar). Passes Available for €7.44 from tourist offices, the Tourist Passport offers cut-price admission to selected museums and popular attractions, as well as two one-day travel cards. The Musts of Brussels is also available, costing €15.62 and offering discounts on entrance to nine top attractions, including the Atomium, Brewery Museum, Comic Strip, Auto World and Mini-Europe. Key Attractions Grand-Place A web of narrow cobbled streets suddenly opens out into the vast Grand-Place – the economic and social heart of Brussels, since the Middle Ages. The array of filigree Gothic buildings is dominated by the asymmetrical Hôtel de Ville, built in the 15th century. Its 96m (315ft) spire is topped with a gilded copper statue of St Michael. Opposite the Town Hall and almost as grand is the Maison du Roi, commissioned in 1515 and faithfully rebuilt in the 1890s. Sometime pied-à-terre of the Hapsburg monarchy, the building now hosts the Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles and its small collection includes tapestries and altarpieces, as well as the costumes worn by the Manneken-Pis. A series of lavish Guildhouses complete the rectangle of the square – number ten still houses the guild of brewers, Maison de l’Arbre d’Or. Events, displays and markets are often held in the Grand-Place. Grand-Place Transport: Métro Bourse. Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles Tel: (02) 279 4355. Fax: (02): 279 4362. Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1000-1300. Admission: €2.48. Manneken-Pis The Rue de l’Etuve leads from the grandeur of Grand-Place to this allegory of irreverence and symbol of Bruxellois self-mockery – a bronze statuette of a urinating boy. If it were not for the occupation of the young child, the sculpture might resemble an angelic putto, such as the ones decorating the façade of the nearby Bourse (Stock Exchange), said to have been sculpted by Rodin. Jérôme Duquesnoy cast Manneken-Pis in the 1660s, perhaps as a reference to the peasant lads of legend, who extinguished fires with their urine. Manneken-Pis is kitted out regularly in a choice of some 500 outfits supplied by foreign countries, companies and charities wishing to flaunt their name or brand. Rue de l’Etuve Transport: Métro Bourse. Place du Grand-Sablon Although the smartest square in town, the Place du Grand-Sablon remains laid-back – the ideal place to enjoy a coffee or buy an antique. Notre-Dame du Sablon dominates the square. Although it began as a humble chapel for the guild of archers, the arrival of a statue of Mary – with reputed magical healing properties – from Antwerp, in 1348, increased its popularity dramatically. The building was expanded into an impressive Gothic church, which still hosts the annual Ommegang procession (see Special Events). The Musée Postal et Musée des Télécommunications reopens at the end of June or early July 2002, following renovations. It is worth a wander around the Sablon district. Intriguing cul-de-sacs lead off from the square to shady spaces – such as the charming Impasse Saint-Jacques. The nearby Place du Petit-Sablon is a small, green square, surrounded by 48 bronze statuettes representing the 16th-century guilds, with larger statues at its heart, including the martyr-heroes, Egmont and Hornes, and Mercator, the cartographer. Place du Grand-Sablon Transport: Bus 20, 34, 48, 95 or 96; or tram 92, 93 or 94. Notre-Dame du Sablon Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat-Sun 1000-1800 Admission: Free. Musée Postal et Musée des Télécommunications Place du Grand-Sablon 40 Tel: (02) 511 7740. Fax: (02) 502 7177. Opening hours: Temporarily closed for restoration; Mon-Fri 1000-1630 (library). Admission: Free. Place des Palais & Palais Royal (Royal Palace) Some of Brussels’ most opulent buildings and key attractions are clustered around the centrally located Parc de Bruxelles, a formal 1870s park with poker-straight tree-lined avenues and a central fountain. The southeast edge is graced by the Palais des Académies, a former residence of the Prince of Orange and Place du Trône, an impressive statue of Léopold II astride a horse. Nearby, Brussel’s Royal Palace and museums are congregated. Opposite the Parc de Bruxelles lies the Palais Royal, begun in the 19th century, by King William I (1815-30) and later expanded by Léopold II. The royal family now resides in Laeken, in northern Brussels, however, the palace is used as royal offices and to host frequent state functions. From the end of July until early September, the palace, with its Throne Room, chandeliers, tapestries and gracious dining room opens to the public. Rue Bredeorde 16 Tel: (02) 551 2020. Fax: (02) 502 3949. Website: www.belgium.fgov.be Transport: Métro Trône or Parc; or tram 92, 93 or 94; or bus 20, 21, 22, 34, 38, 54, 60, 71, 95 or 96. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1030-1730 (25 Jul-8 Sep). Admission: Free. Musées Bellevue The Musées Bellevue comprises tow sites – the Musée de la Dynastie and the Mémorial Roi Baudouin. Both are located in the Hôtel Bellevue, an 18th-century mansion erected on the ruins of the 11th-century castle of the Dukes of Brabant and standing between the Place des Palais and Place Royale. The Musée de la Dynastie displays royal memorabilia, from paintings to documents and sculpture, evoking the public and private lives of Belgian royalty and the events that shaped their reign. The Mémorial Roi Baudouin pays homage to the 43-year reign of King Baudouin, much loved by the Belgian people and sadly mourned, following his death in 1993. The memorial traces the life of Leopold III’s eldest son, from the untimely death of his mother to his early reign as king – following the abdication of his father – and key events duirng his reign, from the end of colonisation to the independence of the Congo and fedearlisation of Belgium. Hôtel Bellevue, Place des Palais 7 Tel: (02) 512 2821 or 545 0801 (guided tours). Fax: (02) 502 4623. Website: www.musbellevue.be Transport: Métro Trône or Parc; or tram 92, 93 or 94; or bus 20, 21, 22, 34, 38, 54, 60, 71, 95 or 96. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission: €3, including audo-guide; concessions available. Palais de Charles V (Palace of Charles V) Access to the archaeological remains of the 11th-century Palace of Charles V, which extends beneath the Place Royale, is via the Bellevue Hotel. The seat of central power for six centuries, the palace was improved and extended by a long line of monarchs, from the Dukes of Brabant to the Dukes of Burgundy, Emperor Charles B and the Archdukes Albert and Isabel. The huge fire of 1731 reduced the grand monument to ruins. Visitors can recapture its faded grandeur with an underground tour. Hôtel Bellevue, Place des Palais 7 Tel: (02) 512 2821 or 545 0801 (guided tours). Fax: (02) 502 4623. Transport: Métro Trône or Parc; or tram 92, 93 or 94; or bus 20, 21, 22, 34, 38, 54, 60, 71, 95 or 96. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission: €4; concessions available. Musée du Cinquantenaire (Cinquantenaire Museum) Everything conceived by Léopold II was on a grandiose scale and the Parc du Cinquantenaire, built to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Belgian independence, is no exception. The Musée de l’Armée, situated in the north wing, has an interesting display of vintage aircraft and free entrance. However, the Musée du Cinquantenaire, formerly known as the Musées Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire (Royal Art and History Museum), is the major draw card of the area. Boasting collections from five continents, ranging from prehistory to the present, it includes Art Nouveau furniture designed by Victor Horta and fine examples of centuries-old lace. Comic strip fans may find some pieces familiar – the large Egyptian collection was the source of inspiration for Belgium’s artists, including Hergé. June 2002 sees the reopening of the Middle Ages room, after the completion of extensive renovations. Parc du Cinquantenaire 10 Tel: (02) 741 7211. Fax: (02) 733 7735. Transport: Train/métro Mérode or Schuman; tram 81 or 82 (to Mérode); bus 20 or 80 (to Nerviens), 22 (to Cinquantenaire), 61 (to Mérode), 28, 36 or 67 (to Schuman). Opening hours: Tues-Fri 0930-1700, Sat-Sun 1000-1700. Admission: €4; free first Wed of the month 1300-1700. Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique (Belgian Royal Museums of Fine Art) The most important of Belgium’s museum complexes is located close to Place Royal. It boasts two rich museums, their collections ranging from the 14th century to the modern day – the Musée d’Art Ancien, housed in the former court of Charles de Lorraine, and the underground Musée d’Art Moderne, inaugurated in 1984. The Musée d’Art Ancien (Museum of Ancient Art) – known locally as the Museum of Fine Arts – excels in its collection of the Old Masters, with works by Rubens, Bouts and Memling. Collections of Pieter Brueghel the Elder (room 31) and Hieronymus Bosch (room 17) are small, as Belgium’s foreign masters took these treasures with them. A passageway leads to Musée d’Art Moderne (Museum of Modern Art), with its splendid collection of the Belgian Surrealists. René Magritte is given pride of place, although the haunting works of Paul Delvaux are also of interest. Picasso, Chagall, Henry Moore and Francis Bacon are also well represented. The renovation of the Argenteau wing, which opens in an 18th-century town house overlooking a corner of the Place Royale, in spring 2003, is set to add 3000sq metres (9842sq feet) of new exhibition space dedicated to major donations. Rue de la Régence 3 Tel: (02) 508 3211. Fax: (02) 508 3232. Transport: Gare Centrale; tram 92, 93 or 94 (to Royale); bus 38, 60, 71, 95 or 96 (to Royale). Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1200 and 1300-1700. Admission: €5. Further Distractions Centre Belge de la Bande Dessinée (Belgian Centre for Comic Strips) The history of the Belgian comic strip, including its links with silent movies and animation, is displayed throughout the airy and uplifting Grand Magasin Waucquez, designed by Victor Horta. Original drawings by early masters such as André Franquin, who created accident-prone Gaston Lagaffe, and Georges Remi (Hergé), who breathed life into Tintin, are complemented by modern-day cartoons, temporary exhibitions, an exhaustive academic library, children’s library and a brasserie. Rue des Sables 20 Tel: (02) 219 1980. Fax: (02) 219 2376. E-mail: visit@cbbd.be Transport: Train/métro Gare Centrale; bus 29, 60, 63, 65 or 71 (to Assuat) or 38 (to Pacheco). Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1200-1700; Tues-Sun 1000-1800; (reference library). Admission: €6.20; concessions available; €1.24 (reference library). Musée Horta (Horta Museum) Victor Horta (1885-1946) worked to produce some 110 buildings, first in neo-Gothic style, famously in Art Nouveau and latterly in sparse Modernist style. Many – such as the Hôtel Solvay, Avenue Louise 224, and Hôtel Van Eetvelde at Avenue Palmerston 4 – are still standing. However, the Musée Horta – the architect’s former home and studio – is beautifully preserved and open to the general public. Attention to detail sweeps through the building, from the vertical letterbox and finely scripted number 25 on the façade to the sculpted staircase and dining room floor, where a marble mosaic encircles the finest American ash. A theatrical arrangement of secret front doors allowed the architect to welcome guests from different social and religious backgrounds without their being aware of each other’s presence. Rue Américaine 25 Tel: (02) 543 0490. Fax: (02) 538 7631. Transport: Tram 81, 82, 91 or 92; or bus 54 or 60. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1400-1730. Admission: €4.95. Atomium and Mini-Europe Léopold II bequeathed the 202-hectare (500-acre) estate of Heysel to the city of Brussels, in 1909. The large exhibition spaces are located here, to the northwest of the centre. Its most famous landmark, however, is the Atomium – a giant model of an oxygen molecule, built for the 1958 World Fair as a temporary structure, although never dismantled. The highest sphere gives a panoramic view of the entire region. The science exhibition is of interest only to young children. Nearby Mini-Europe shrinks Europe to a size that can be covered in a short walk, with faithful miniatures of the Eiffel Tower, Westminster and the Berlin Wall in the process of being dismantled. The year 2002 has welcomed in the restoration of the model of the Cathedral of Saint Jacques de Compostella to its former glory. Atomium Boulevard du Centenaire Tel: (02) 475 4776. Fax: (02) 475 4779. Transport: Métro Heysel; or bus 84 or 99; or tram 23 or 81. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900 (Apr-Aug); daily 1000-1730 (Sep-Mar). Admission: €6; €15 (combined Atomium and Mini-Europe ticket); concessions available. Mini-Europe Bruparck, Boulevard du Centenaire Tel: (02) 474 1311. Fax: (02) 478 2675 Transport: Métro Heysel; or bus 84 or 99; or tram 23 or 81. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (Apr-Jun); Mon-Thurs 0930-1900, Fri-Sun 0930-2300 (Jul-Aug); daily 0930-1700 (Sep-Dec). Admission: €11; €15 (combined Atomium and Mini-Europe ticket); concessions available. Musical Instrument Museum Located in the splendid Victor Horta-designed Art Nouveau Old England Building, at the Place Royale, the Musical Instrument Museum is home to a collection of instruments as well as information and activities covering ancient, modern and tradidtional music. A 200-seat concert hall hosts regular concerts (Thursday evenings, from October to May), which are organised to coincide with the various themes of the exhibitions. Place Royale, Montagne de la Cour 2 Tel: (02) 545 0130. Fax: (02) 545 0178. Website: www.mim.fgov.be Transport: Métro line 1A or 1B to Gare-Centrale or Park; tram 92, 93 or 94 to Royale; bus 20, 38, 60, 71, 95 or 96 to Royale. Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri 0930-1700, Thurs 0930-2000 (concert at 2000), Sat and Sun 1000-1700 Admission: €5; concessions available. Tours of the City Walking Tours The compact city centre of Brussels is tailor-made for walking tours. The Brussels Tourist Office (tel: (02) 548 0447) offers three-hour guided tours on a variety of themes – architecture, history, culture, cartoons, gastronomy and classical Brussels. Departure points vary depending on the tour chosen. New for 2002 is a guided tour of 18th-century Brussels, the Charles de Lorraine tour, and from 2003, visitors will be able to follow in the footsteps of Jacques Brel. Three-hour tours cost €85. Highly recommended are underground visits at Palais Royal, to original 14th-century streets. Bus Tours The Société De Boek (tel: (02) 513 7744) organises bus tours with a guide, costing €19 for a three-hour Brussels trip, €31 for a day trip to Ghent/Bruges and €37 for a trip to the Ardennes. Group reductions are available. New for 2002, is the Brussels Discovery tour, which allows visitors to hop on and off the sightseeing bus (tickets cost €12.50 and are valid for 48 hours throughout all 14 stops). In summer 2002, day trips to Paris (journey time – 4 hours) are also being launched – tickets cost €50. All Société De Boek tours depart from Rue de la Colline 8, near the Grand-Place. Excursions For a Half Day Bruges: The heyday of Bruges – a one-hour train or bus ride west from Brussels – lasted from the 13th century, when merchants became rich from the cloth trade, until the silting of the Zwin River brought about the city’s rapid decline. Nonetheless, Bruges remains one of the most beautifully preserved medieval cities in Europe and is Belgium’s top tourist attraction. Chosen as a city of culture for 2002, Bruges is bathing in the glory of its fabulous new concert venue, pavilion and renovated historic buildings. Visitors can explore charming streets and canals, packed with little restaurants, atmospheric cafés and a cluster of interesting museums and churches. Michelangelo’s delicate marble Madonna and Child lies within the Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk (Church of Our Lady). The Tourist Office, Burg 11 (tel: (050) 448 686; website: www.bruges.be), provides information and a hotel booking service. For a Whole Day Antwerp: Located 50km (31 miles) north of Brussels, Antwerp is tucked into the east bank of a bend in the Schelde River. Its largely quadri-lingual inhabitants – known as Sinjorens – are proud of the history and culture of their city, which reached its apogee in the 16th century. Masterpieces by Rubens (a former resident) and Van Dyck are on display at the Museum voor Schone Kunsten (Royal Museum of Fine Art), Léopold De Waelplaats (tel: (03) 238 7809). Antwerp is also a thriving port, the world’s leading diamond centre and now an international fashion capital. Antwerp's Tourist Office, Grote Markt 15 (tel: (03) 232 0103), provides a wealth of information on the city, easily reached by train from all three of Brussels' principal stations to the Centraal Station in Antwerp. Namur: Located just 60km (40 miles) southeast of Brussels, Namur is a picturesque town with a hilltop citadel, which indicates its historic military importance at the junction of the Meuse and Sambre rivers. Down by the riverbanks, meanwhile, there are pretty pedestrianised streets packed with interesting shops, fine old churches and a handful of decent museums. The pick of these is the Trésor du Prieuré d’Oignies, housed in a convent at 17 Rue Julie Billiart, and boasting an exquisite collection of gold and silver work. Namur also has some top restaurants and a buzzing nightlife, thanks to its many university students. More information can be obtained from the city’s Tourist Office, Place Léopold (tel: (081) 246 449), which is a two-minute walk from the train station. Namur is easily accessible from all three stations in Brussels. Hotels Prices in Belgium generally include a 16% service charge, VAT, which currently stands at 6%, and a 9% city tax. The prices quoted below are the starting prices for double rooms, excluding breakfast but including service charge, VAT and city tax, unless otherwise specified. Business Conrad International Located in the heart of Brussels’ centre of chic on avenue Louise, the Conrad International is the first choice for visitors wanting the ultimate in luxury and modern convenience. Although only built in 1993, the Conrad has rapidly become one of Brussels’ most established hotels and can already boast a star guest list, including President Clinton, Bill Gates and The Rolling Stones. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World group, the Conrad wins its guests over with its spacious chandeliered lounge and 269 air-conditioned, individually decorated rooms. Each is equipped with a minimum of three telephone lines, allowing for modem and fax links. There is an excellent business centre, with secretarial, translation and simultaneous translation services available. Of the ten meeting rooms, the largest is a gracious ballroom with the capacity for up to 800 guests. The hotel has two restaurants – the Maison de Maître and the less formal Café Wiltcher’s. For relaxation, there is the cocktail bar, where live piano music is played and the Brussels Cigar Club. Guests are also offered special rates in the recently installed Champneys health spa. Avenue Louise 71 Tel: (02) 542 4242. Fax: (02) 542 4200. E-mail: bruhc@gm@hilton.com Website: www.Brussels.conradinternational.com Price: BFr17,500/EUR434 (including breakfast). Hilton Brussels The modern, 27-storey Hilton Brussels, located close to the Palais de Justice, towers over the fashionable boulevard de Waterloo shopping street. The hotel, which was built in 1967, is a short distance from the European Commission and only 16km (10 miles) from the airport. Although business travellers dominate the 434 air-conditioned rooms, the Hilton is also frequented by wealthy tourists and locals. Facilities include two restaurants (one of which is the gastronomic Maison du Boeuf), a bar and a fitness centre. There is also a business centre, which extends over four floors, offering 22 meeting rooms and state-of-the-art business and conference facilities (for up to 800 people) with dedicated staff. The four floors of executive rooms are specially equipped with modem points and fax connections. 38 boulevard de Waterloo Tel: (02) 504 1111. Fax: (02) 504 2111. E-mail: bruhitwrm@hilton.com Website: www.hilton.com Price: BFr12,500/EUR310 (including breakfast). Radisson SAS Hotel Brussels This tailor-made business hotel, which opened in 1989, is located some five minutes’ walk from the Grand-Place and close to Bruxelles-Central and the main shopping streets. A seven-floor-high atrium endows the hotel with a clinical sheen and a sense of space. The 281 rooms, split into Royal Club, Scandinavian, Oriental and recently renovated Classical floors, offer guests a high level of comfort and come equipped with personal answering machines. There are also rooms for disabled and non-smoking guests. Business facilities are excellent, comprising a business centre (for up to 450 people), banqueting (for up to 296 seated or 600 buffet style), 14 meeting rooms and video-conferencing. There are two bars, the gourmet Sea Grill restaurant and the less formal Atrium restaurant, which is situated on the ground floor, amid water features and a fragment of the old city wall. Guests are offered preferential rates for the fitness centre (free for those staying in Royal Club rooms), which has a Jacuzzi, as well as solariums and saunas. Rue du Fossé-aux-Loups 47 Tel: (02) 219 2828. Fax: (02) 219 6262. E-mail: info@bruzh.rdsas.com Website: www.radisson.com/brussels.be Price: BFr8000/EUR198 (including breakfast). Sheraton Brussels & Towers This 30-floor tower, located at the heart of Brussels’ business district, is the city’s largest hotel, offering 533 spacious rooms (including 43 suites) and conference facilities for up to 1000 people. This mini-city comprises bars, shops, a fitness centre and rooftop pool, a 24-hour business centre and Le Crescendo restaurant which serves Mediterranean cuisine. Fans of the Sheraton style may prefer to stay in the Sheraton Brussels Airport Hotel – located just opposite the main airport terminal, it is a handy stopover for business travellers. The hotel has recently been renovated and offers guests modern yet relaxing rooms, bar and restaurant. Though smaller than the Sheraton Brussels & Towers, the airport hotel boasts excellent conference facilities for up to 600 people. Sheraton Brussels & Towers Place Rogier 3 Tel: (02) 224 3111. Fax: (02) 224 3456. E-mail: reservations.Brussels@sheraton.com Website: www.sheraton.com/brussels Price: BFr12,000/EUR297. Sheraton Brussels Airport Hotel Sheraton Brussels Airport Hotel Brussels Zaventem, 1930 Zaventem Tel: (02) 710 8000. Fax: (02) 710 8080. Price: BFr16,000/EUR397. Luxury Amigo Although within one minute’s walk of the bustling Grand-Place, the Amigo is a haven of calm and comfort. Furnished in Spanish Renaissance style with rich tapestries and antiques, the Amigo offers a friendly, personalised welcome, a restaurant and cocktail bar, and 176 individually decorated rooms. Each room is air-conditioned and has modem points and mini-bar. There are also six meeting rooms for up to 100 people and the Salle des Ambassadeurs banqueting suite. These days, the seven luxurious suites are for stars (recent guests include Helmut Kohl and Harrison Ford), but prisoners once stayed here. A prison in the 16th century, the Amigo only opened as a hotel in 1957. Due to current renovations, not all of the rooms are available for guest use at the time of writing. The Amigo is planning to reopen completely by the end of 2001 with a renovated hall and new restaurant and fitness suite. Rue de l’Amigo 1-3 Tel: (02) 547 4747. Fax: (02) 513 5277. E-mail: hotelamigo@hotelamigo.com Website: www.rfhotels.com Price: BFr6950/EUR172 (including breakfast). Hôtel Metropole The century-old Hôtel Metropole, with its gracious Art Nouveau interior, is the first choice for those wishing to combine a lust for nostalgia with a need for modern comfort. Located a stone’s throw from the Grand-Place, this palatial hotel offers 303 rooms and ten suites, ten meeting rooms, a fitness centre, steam bath and sauna. Guest rooms are air-conditioned and feature modem points and mini-bars. The hotel, designed by the French architect Alban Chambon, now also boasts a gastronomic restaurant named in his honour. Place de Brouckère 31 Tel: (02) 217 2300. Fax: (02) 218 0220. E-mail: info@metropolehotel.be Website: www.metropolehotel.be Price: BFr13,500/EUR335 (including breakfast). Moderate Comfort Art Hotel New Siru This highly individual three-star hotel is located close to the Gare du Nord, five minutes’ walk from parc du Cinquantenaire and ten minutes’ walk from the Grand-Place. Each room is decorated with paintings, murals or even sculptures of a Belgian artist, and equipped with mini-bar and TV. Guests can choose from pictures of cavorting angels to Marilyn Monroe. The Saint-Germain Brasserie has a capacity for banquets of up to 100 guests and a meeting room is available for up to 50 people. Internet access is available at BFr200/EUR5 per hour. Place Rogier 1 Tel: (02) 203 3580. Fax: (02) 203 3303. E-mail: art.hotel.siru@skynet.be Website: www.comforthotelsiru.com Price: BFr6500/EUR161 (including breakfast). Mozart This pretty 47-room hotel, located just off the Grand-Place, amid a plethora of bars and small eating places, is a wise budget option, offering an attractive lobby decked out in marble and tastefully decorated bedrooms. All rooms are en suite and equipped with TV and mini-bar. A small meeting room with a capacity for around 40 people is also available for hire. Rue du Marché aux Fromages Tel: (02) 502 6661. Fax: (02) 502 7758. E-mail: hotel.Mozart@skynet.be Website: www.hotel-mozart.be Price: BFr3500/EUR87 (including breakfast). Other Recommendations Dorint This designer hotel with superb conference facilities, located close to the main EU institutions, just to the east of the city centre, opened in 1996. Belgian architect Serge Roose chose a combination of sleek lines and generous curves, gleaming metal and natural materials to create the Dorint’s individual style. The unifying theme of photography softens the hotel’s minimalist edge – an original print hangs in each of the 212 luxurious rooms and seasonal exhibitions are held in the hallways. All of the rooms are equipped with ISDN connections for fax and modem and non-smoking rooms are available. Business facilities include nine conference rooms with a combined capacity of up to 150 participants, multimedia presentation equipment and simultaneous translation facilities and booths. Restaurant Au Plaisir offers lovely garden views. Alternatively, visitors can keep abreast of world events at the News Bar or relax at the Jacqmotte Coffeeshop. Boulevard Charlemagne Tel: (02) 231 0909. Fax: (02) 230 3371. E-mail: info@dorintbru.be Website: www.dorint.be Price: BFr12,500/EUR310 (including breakfast). Le Dixseptième This peaceful hotel, two minutes’ walk from the Grand-Place, close to the city’s major museums and art galleries, is situated in a beautifully restored 17th-century townhouse, the former residence of the Spanish ambassador to Belgium. Many of the original features remain, such as a sweeping oak staircase and marble fireplaces. Each of the 24 air-conditioned rooms (including six studios), named after a Belgian artist, contains a marble bathroom and is individually decorated with antique furniture contrasting with contemporary touches. A private fax and free Internet connection can be supplied on request. The two halls, with their parquet flooring and shimmering chandeliers, are an ideal setting for small business meetings and banquets (for up to 20 people). There is also a friendly bar for guest use. Rue de la Madeleine 25 Tel: (02) 502 5744. Fax: (02) 502 6424. E-mail: info@ledixseptieme.be Website: www.ledixseptieme.be Price: BFr7000/EUR174 (including breakfast). Restaurants We have selected 25 restaurants, which we have divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. Most restaurants in Brussels include VAT, which currently stands at 6%, and a service charge of 16%, within their prices. Nevertheless, most diners will round up their bill to leave a few extra francs or leave around an extra 5% of the bill if the service is very good. The prices quoted below are for a three-course meal and for a bottle of house wine or equivalent, including VAT and service charge, unless otherwise stated. Gastronomic Comme Chez Soi The fame of this intimate little restaurant, decorated in Belle Epoque style, extends worldwide. Chef Pierre Wynants, with help from his son-in-law Lionel Rigolet, serves food to justify its three Michelin stars. Specialities include fillets of sole with a mousseline of Riesling or prawn and apricot soufflé with crunchy pistachios and red fruits. Advanced booking is strongly recommended. Closed Sunday and Monday. 23 place Rouppe Tel: (02) 512 2921. Fax: (02) 511 8052. Price: BFr2850/EUR71. Wine: BFr1600/EUR40. De Bijgaarden Situated some 20 minutes’ drive from central Brussels, De Bijgaarden is the territory of chef Olivier Schlissinger – his creations in this wooden panelled restaurant have been awarded two Michelin stars. Specialities include duck and goose foie gras and Colchester oysters with champagne. Closed Saturday lunchtime and all day Sunday. Van Beverenstrat 20, Groot-Bijgaarden Tel: (02) 466 4485. Fax: (02) 463 0811. E-mail: debijgaarden@skynet.be Price: BFr3500/EUR87. Wine: BFr1000/EUR25. La Truffe Noire Italian chef Luigi Ciciriello is passionate about his truffles, used in just about every dish at this gastronomic, Michelin-starred but friendly restaurant, located close to avenue Louise in central Brussels. After its annual August closure, the restaurant reopened completely refurbished in rich wood and warmer, gentler tones. Specialities include carpaccio truffles with olive oil and parmesan, lobster risotto with truffles, and, for dessert, black chocolate truffle with spun sugar and raspberry sauce. An extensive wine cellar of fine Italian and French bottles, offers the perfect accompaniment to any meal. Special business menus are available at lunchtime and private lounges on the first floor may be booked for groups of up to 20 guests. Closed Saturday lunchtime and Monday. Those with a passion for truffles but without time to linger should head for the sister establishment, the cheaper L’Atelier de la Truffe Noire (avenue Louise 300), which is ideal for a quick but delicious lunch. Closed all day Sunday and Monday lunchtime. Boulevard de la Cambre Tel: (02) 640 4422. Fax: (02) 647 9704. E-mail: luigi.ciciriello@truffenoire.com Website: www.truffenoire.com Price: BFr3000/EUR74. Wine: BFr900/EUR22. La Villa Lorraine Located in the Uccle district, on the edge of the Bois de la Cambre, this very smart restaurant, with impeccable, white tablecloths, has large windows overlooking dense greenery. In summer, there is a lovely garden for alfresco dining. The cuisine, created by chef Freddy Vandecasserie, is classical French and specialities include sole Lorraine, broccoli terrine with wild asparagus or lobster with turmeric and coconut milk. There is an extensive wine list, ranging from agreeable, reasonably priced wines to vintage wine from the Villa’s cellar. To impress a client, there is no better way than inviting them to lunch at La Villa Lorraine. The establishment offers a series of gracious, private rooms, which are ideal for business lunches and banquets – special business menus can be created to order. Chaussée de la Hulpe 28 Tel: (02) 374 3163. Fax: (02) 372 0195. E-mail: info@villalorraine.be Website: www.villalorraine.be Price: BFr3000/EUR74. Wine: BFr800/EUR20. Restaurant Bruneau Chef Jean-Pierre Bruneau, one of the city’s finest and most innovative chefs, has been awarded three Michelin stars for his classic cuisine with a contemporary twist. Located in the Ganshoren district, close to the Koekelberg Basilica, designer dishes are served at Restaurant Bruneau against the backdrop of a modern decor and serious atmosphere. This is a temple of fine food – offering a choice of seafood, meat and game dishes. Dishes include coucou de malines (chicken stuffed with truffles), ravioli filled with celery and truffles or lobster with truffles and light vinegar sauce. Closed Tuesday evening and Wednesday. Avenue Broustin 75 Tel: (02) 427 6978. Fax: (02) 425 9726. E-mail: bruneau@rest.be Website: www.bruneau.be Price: BFr3000/EUR74. Wine: BFr1200/EUR30. Business La Maison du Boeuf The Hilton’s gourmet restaurant, La Maison du Boeuf (‘House of Beef’), specialises in roast beef and steaks, cooked to a Michelin-starred level of perfection. The decor is contemporary and unobtrusive and the service is discreet, making this an ideal venue for high-level business meetings. Hilton Brussels (First Floor), boulevard de Waterloo 38 Tel: (02) 504 1334. Fax: (02) 504 2111. Website: www.hilton.com Price: BFr4000/EUR99. Wine: BFr1500/EUR37. La Maison du Cygne Karl Marx sweated over his Communist Manifesto at this address, when it was a bustling tavern. These days, La Maison du Cygne (‘The House of the Swan’) is a refined gourmet restaurant, decorated in wooden panelling and beams, with paintings on the wall. It serves classic dishes, such as foie gras and truffles, in the best location possible in Brussels – the Grand-Place. At lunchtime, this is a favoured venue for businesspeople lucky enough to dine on their expense account. Closed Saturday lunchtime and Sunday. Rue Charles Buls 2 Tel: (02) 511 8244. Fax: (02) 514 3148. Price: BFr2400/EUR59. Wine: BFr800/EUR20. Le Fils de Jules Close to restaurant Le Quincaillerie in the Ixelles district, this popular brasserie, decorated in Art Deco style, specialises in cooking from the Basque country and southwest France, such as hot duck foie gras with prunes or tuna steak with onions. There is also a fine selection of French and Spanish wines. Relaxed, friendly and tourist-free, this is a good place to do a business lunch. Closed lunchtime Saturday and Sunday. Rue du Page 35 Tel: (02) 534 0057. Fax: (02) 534 5200. E-mail: info@filsdejules.be Website: www.filsdejules.be Price: BFr1500/EUR37. Wine: BFr720/EUR18. Sea Grill Brussels’ top fish and seafood restaurant, located in the SAS Radisson Hotel and decorated in muted style, is a cauldron for chef Yves Matagne’s creative cooking. Food of this quality (the Sea Grill has been awarded two Michelin stars) does not come cheap. However, it is an ideal venue for business lunches for those who are intent on impressing their clients with mouthwatering dishes such as baked sea bass with truffles and thyme. The marée du jour lunch menu costs BFr2700/EUR67, including wine. Closed Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Rue du Fossé-aux-Loups 47 Tel: (02) 227 3120. Fax: (02) 219 6262. E-mail: info@bruzh.rdsas.com Website: www.radisson.com/brussels.be Price: BFr3500/EUR87. Wine: BFr1000/EUR25. Symphony Symphony, formerly known as Nico Central, is quite a recent arrival on the Brussels dining scene. Located in the Renaissance Hotel (formerly the Swissotel), close to the European Parliament, this modern restaurant draws a sophisticated, business clientele. Belgian chef Philippe Le Comte, who trained at the Palace Hotel and the Sheraton, serves imaginative and contemporary French cuisine, inspired by London chef Nico Ladenis. Entirely renovated in April 2001, the Symphony has a contemporary decor with subtle colours. The varied menu includes gnocci with wild mushrooms, sole meuniere and foie gras. Closed Saturday and Sunday. Rue du Parnasse 19 Tel: (02) 505 2581. Fax: (02) 505 2555. Website: www.renaissancehotels.com Price: BFr2000/EUR50. Wine: BFr800/EUR20. Trendy Bonsoir Clara Bonsoir Clara distinguishes itself from the host of trendy eating places in the boutique-lined rue Antoine Dansaert by its theatrical decor (a whole wall is decorated in colourful, patchwork squares) and imaginative, international cuisine. The menu excels in its fish dishes – a house speciality is salmon marinated in spices – but there are also good meat and vegetarian options. The clientele is chic and arty. Closed Saturday and Sunday lunchtimes. Rue Antoine Dansaert 22-26 Tel: (02) 502 0990. Fax: (02) 502 5557. Price: BFr2000/EUR50. Wine: BFr600/EUR15. Fin de Siècle As the name suggests, this restaurant is decorated in fin de siècle style, with high ceilings and an original Belle Epoque bar. The venue, which was once a café-theatre, is now a relaxed café-restaurant, staying open daily until around 0100. Specialities include aromatic lamb, with aubergine, tomato and aniseed flower. Closed Monday. Rue des Chartreux Tel: (02) 513 5123. Price: BFr1500/EUR37. Wine: BFr800/EUR20. Le Living Room The open invitation to feel at home in this former hotel turned ultra-trendy eating place, located in the St Gilles district, is hard to turn down. On the menu at the light and airy restaurant is Asian-inspired cuisine, including sushi and sashimi, served in a cosmopolitan atmosphere to a hip clientele. Closed Sunday. 50 Chaussée de Charleroi Tel: (02) 534 4434. Fax: (02) 539 1590. Price: BFr2000/EUR50. Wine: BFr800/EUR20. Les Baguettes Impériales This Michelin-starred Vietnamese restaurant, decorated in contemporary style, is located in Laeken, close to the Heysel exhibition halls. Specialities include stuffed pigeon and foie gras, and there is an extensive wine list. Closed Sunday evening and all day Tuesday. Avenue Jean Sobieski 70 Tel: (02) 479 6732. Fax: (02) 479 6732. Price: BFr3000/EUR74. Wine: BFr900/EUR22. Lola Located close to the antiques quarter, Lola serves classic French cuisine, lifted with a contemporary touch, to an arty, 30-something crowd. The long, narrow interior is sleek and modern but has a 1960s retro feel. Chef Larbi Ouriaghi’s specialities include duck with mango, although vegetarians will enjoy the vegetable risotto (flavoured with garlic, mushrooms, parmesan and fresh basil) and copious salads. Place du Grand-Sablon 33 Tel: (02) 514 2460. Fax: (02) 514 2653. Price: BFr2000/EUR50. Wine: BFr800/EUR20. Budget Bleu de Toi Corinne Ceuleman’s intimate two-floor restaurant, with its welcoming blue façade and rich, decadent interior, serves brasserie-style cuisine in a relaxed environment. The house speciality is bintje (Dutch potatoes), which come with a wide choice of stuffings, from lobster to smoked salmon, caviar, veal or snails. Desserts include ice cream with spéculoos (Belgian ginger biscuit) and oriental nougat. Guests can choose to dine in the chilled-out blue room or more buzzy, red room upstairs. Group bookings (for up to 16 people) are available. Closed Saturday lunchtime and all day Sunday. Rue des Alexiens 73 Tel: (02) 502 4371. Fax: (02) 502 4371. Price: BFr600/EUR15. Wine: BFr800/EUR20. Chez Léon This popular brasserie chain is best known for its generous portions of mussels and chips, although it also serves other traditional brasserie fare. Visitors seeking a relaxing or romantic atmosphere should not opt for Chez Léon – the tablecloths are paper and everyone (staff and diners included) seems to be in a bit of a rush. However, this centrally located venue, a stone’s throw from the Grand-Place, does offer an authentic experience of basic, Belgian cuisine. Rue des Bouchers 18 Tel: (02) 511 1415. Fax: (02) 514 0231. Price: BFr1005/EUR25. Wine: BFr500/EUR12. Le Grain de Sel Grégory Yarm’s unpretentious family-run restaurant, beside the Ixelles lake and close to place Flagey, is a top budget option. Specialities include delights such as tomato with goat’s cheese, tuna carpaccio, pigeon with lentils or salmon tartare with cucumber and horseradish. Yarm also serves his favourite family recipes, such as his Portuguese grandmother’s recipe for sole with Elvira banana. The decor is gentle, with pretty Venetian chandeliers and simple wooden tables. In summer, there is a lovely rose garden for alfresco dining. Closed Saturday lunchtime and all day Sunday. Chaussée de Vleurgat Tel: (02) 648 1858. Fax: (02) 646 3579. E-mail: grandesel@skynet.be Price: BFr900/EUR22. Wine: BFr490/EUR12. Raconte-Moi des Salades Salad lovers will enjoy the many vegetarian and meaty options offered at this friendly restaurant, decorated with comfortable wickerware chairs and candlelit in the evening. Meat dishes include grilled beef with rosemary on a roquette and parmesan salad, while vegetarian options range from five vegetables served with salad and vinaigrette to pasta dishes. The atmosphere is relaxed and prices, bearing in mind the chic location in Ixelles, are very reasonable. In summer, there is the chance to enjoy alfresco dining. Popular with a trendy young crowd, it is wise to book in advance. Closed Sunday. Place du Châtelain Tel: (02) 534 2727. E-mail: salades@resto.be Website: www.resto.be/salades Price: BFr1200/EUR30. Wine: BFr600/EUR15. Touch and Go A resolutely good-humoured staff serve tasty pitta bread stuffed with a wide variety of salads and sauces at this popular restaurant chain. There are several branches of Touch and Go across the city – the rue Saint Boniface branch has recently been redecorated with colourfully painted walls and large paintings. Closed Sunday. Rue Saint Boniface 12 or rue Edith Cavell 113 or rue Grétry 43 Tel: (02) 513 8502. Price: BFr1000/EUR25. Wine: BFr500/EUR12. Personal Recommendations Aux Armes de Bruxelles The winding streets surrounding the Grand-Place are oozing with restaurants but many are tourist traps. It is always a safe bet to dine at Aux Armes de Bruxelles, which serves Belgian traditional cuisine, such as Waterzooi (fish or chicken in a creamy soup with vegetables), oysters or chips with mayonnaise. The surroundings are crisp and unfussy, and the service friendly and efficient. Closed Monday. Rue des Bouchers 13 Tel: (02) 511 5550. Fax: (02) 514 3381. E-mail: arbrux@beon.be Website: www.armebrux.be Price: BFr1300/EUR32. Wine: BFr995/EUR25. Blue Elephant This popular restaurant, intricately decorated with outsized plants, Buddhist statuary and comfortable bamboo chairs, serves high-class Thai cusine, using fresh ingredients flown in from Bangkok. Karl Steppé’s first venture, Brussels’ Blue Elephant, opened in the 1980s to great acclaim, and the winning formula has now been exported to London, Lyon, Dubai and New Delhi. Specialities include beef paneng and Thai chicken curry, while tofu dishes offer good alternatives for vegetarian diners. The Blue Elephant can cater for banquets and conferences. Closed Saturday lunchtime. Chaussée de Waterloo 1120 Tel: (02) 374 4962. Fax: (02) 375 4468. E-mail: Brussels@blueelephant.com Website: www.blueelephant.com Price: BFr1500/EUR37. Wine: BFr650/EUR16. La Quincaillerie La Quincaillerie is one of the most renowned of the many restaurants clustered around the place du Châtelain in the Ixelles district, and it is always busy. A former ironmonger’s shop, the interior retains much of the original decor, including a wrought-iron staircase, designed by students of Victor Horta (Brussels’ renowned Art Nouveau architect) in 1903. Chefs Patrick Amourette and Olivier Bellaches serve refined brasserie fare, with an emphasis on fish and seafood dishes, such as red mullet fillets with crab vinaigrette sauce. Closed Saturday and Sunday lunchtimes. Rue du Page 43-45 Tel: (02) 538 2553. Fax: (02) 539 4095. E-mail: info@quincaillerie.be Website: www.quincaillerie.be Price: BFr1500/EUR37. Wine: BFr850/EUR21. La Tour D’y Voir Located in a 14th-century chapel in the antiques quarter, on the first floor above Les Vieux Sablon art gallery, this is the ideal restaurant for a romantic tête-a-tête in the evening or relaxed business lunch. Owners Pascal and Tania Anciaux create an informal and creative environment with their Surprise and Prestige menu. Guests are invited to choose a fish, meat or vegetarian theme from the menu, leaving it up to the chef to improvise and come up with a mouthwatering and inventive dish. Place du Grand-Sablon 8/9 B6 Tel: (02) 511 4043. Tel: (02) 511 0078. E-mail: tourdyvoir@skynet.be Website: www.tourdyvoir.com Price: BFr1395/EUR35. Wine: BFr600/EUR15. Les Brasseries Georges This bustling restaurant, located opposite Bois de la Cambre, specialises in oysters, but also serves standard brasserie fare. Popular with Brussels’ modish set, this is a good place to see and be seen, and enjoy the Belle Epoque decor. Avenue Winston Churchill 259 Tel: (02) 347 2100. Fax: (02) 344 0245. Price: BFr2000/EUR50. Wine: BFr1000/EUR25. Sport Football and cycling are the national passions. Brussels’ football clubs, RWDM (website: www.rwdm.be) and Union St-Gilloise, have their fans but RSC Anderlecht (website: www.rsca.be) has a faithful following who support the team at Stade Constant Vanden Stock, Avenue Théo Verbeeck 2 (tel: (02) 522 1539). Anderlecht are frequently at the top of the home league and sometimes make it into the Champions League. Passions were raised to fever pitch in the European Championships 2000, which was hosted jointly by Belgium and Holland in a renamed and reconstructed stadium, Stade Roi Baudouin, Heysel (tel: (02) 474 3940). The stadium has won the contract as the venue for Belgium’s national football matches until 2007, which climaxes with the finals in May. Tickets to football matches are available through Maison du Football (tel: (02) 477 1211). Belgium has an impressive record in cycling and Eddy Merckx did a fine PR job for the country by repeatedly winning the Tour de France in the 1960s and 1970s. His glory still lives on, celebrated annually in the Eddy Merckx Grand Prix, on the last Sunday of August. A more amateur affair follows the same 22km (13.6-mile) trip from the Gare du Nord to Heysel (tel: (02) 502 7355). The major athletics event is the annual Ivo van Damme Memorial IAHF Grand Prix (tel: (02) 878 2025) in late August/early September held in the Stade Roi Baudouin. Amateurs take part in the Brussels 20km (12.4-mile) circular race held annually in May/June, which starts and finishes at the Esplanade du Cinquantenaire (tel: (02) 511 9000). Fitness centres: The vast Physical Golden Club, Place du Chatelain 33 (tel: (02) 539 3036), offers weights machines and fitness classes and has the added kudos of being the place where Jean-Claude van Damme started off his action movie career. Martial arts classes are predictably popular. A day pass costs €25. For the ultra well-heeled, Champneys (tel: (02) 542 4666/67) has opened up next to the Conran Hotel, 71B Avenue Louise. A ‘spa discover day’ costs €105. Golf: The 18-hole Royal Amicale Anderlecht Golf Club, Rue Scholle 1 (tel: (02) 521 1687), is located within Brussels itself. The club charges €30 for a day’s golfing during the week and €45 at weekends when prior reservation is recommended. Brabantse Golf, Steenwagenstraat 11, Melsbroek (tel: (02) 751 8205), is close to the airport. There are two 18-hole courses at Royal Zoute Golf Club, Caddiespad 14, Knokke-le-Zoute (tel: (050) 623 029), located 100km (60 miles) north of Brussels in the seaside town of Knokke-le-Zoute. Visitors are welcome and green fees are €55-95, depending on the handicap of the player. Alternatively, there are 11 courses around Waterloo, just south of Brussels, offering golfing opportunities through a programme called Golf Pass Walloon Brabant. The Fédération Royal Belge de Golf (tel: (02) 672.23.89) provides information on Belgium’s golf courses. Several golfing packages are available in a programme created by Martins Hotels (website: www.passbw.com). Tennis and squash: The Centre Sportif de Woluwe St-Pierre, Avenue Salomé 2 (tel: (02) 773 1820), has squash, badminton and tennis courts. Swimming: There are plenty of pools in Brussels’ sports centres. The one at the Centre Sportif de Woluwe St-Pierre, Avenue Salomé 2 (tel: (02) 773 1820) is Olympic-sized. Océade Water Park is within splashing distance of Mini-Europe (see Further Distractions). Shopping Brussels’ classic souvenir is chocolate. Fresh creamy pralines are for sale at Wittamer, Place du Grand-Sablon, who have had almost a century to perfect their recipes. Other names to look out for is the top-quality Neuhaus, Grand-Place 27 and Galerie de la Reine 25-27, and Godiva, also located in the Grand-Place. Cheaper chocolates are available from the popular Léonidas chain, Boulevard Anspach 46. Belgian biscuits are also a gift guaranteed to bring a guilty smile to the receiver. Dandoy, Rue au Beurre 31, produce melt-in-your-mouth macaroons and the Brussels speciality speculoos – a gingerbread biscuit with a crunch. Beer is best bought at Bière Artisanale, Chaussée de Wavre 174 (website: www.users.skynet.be/beermania), which stocks over 400 types of beer and glasses to suit. Designer clothes are clustered around the smart Avenue Louise and Avenue de la Toison d’Or. Key shopping stops on Avenue Louise include Belgian designers at Shine’s new flagship store, located at 82-84 Avenue Louise – fantastic for stunning silk dresses and floaty, Chinese-inspired creations – and more down-to-earth daywear in muted tones at Caroline Biss, 21 Avenue Louise. Established and up-and-coming Belgian designers – such as Olivier Strelli, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten and Carine Lauwers – line the fashionable Rue Antoine Dansaert. Innovative Stijl has more avant-garde Belgian designer clothes, by designers such as Xavier Delcour and Olivier Theyskens, at number 74, underwear at number 47 and children’s clothes at Kat en Muis, number 32. Children’s and adults’ tastes alike are met at Brussels’ many comic book shops. Among these is centrally located La Boutique Tintin, Rue de la Colline 13. Brussels lace – on show at the Lace Museum, Rue de la Violette 6 – is for sale at F Rubbrecht, Grand-Place 23, or at the city’s largest lace maker, Manufacture Belge de Dentelle, Galerie de la Reine 6-8. Most of the souvenir lace shops around Grand-Place are less authentic. Every day is market day in the different parts of Brussels. Among the best ot these is the flower market, open Tuesday-Sunday 0800-1800, at Grand-Place, also the site of Sunday morning’s bird market. Antiques are sold at the market on Place du Grand-Sablon, Saturday 0900-1800 and Sunday 0900-1300, while the flea market at Place du Jeu de Balle, in the Marolles district, is open daily 0700-1300, at its best on weekend mornings. A more high street experience, however, is at hand at City 2 shopping mall, in the shop-studded Rue Neuve, where shops stay open on Fridays until 2000. Standard shopping hours are 1000-1800/1900 but the Grand-Place area stays open until about 2000. Sales tax is 21% and can be refunded by non-EU members from any of the shops affiliated to Global Refund Belgium (tel: (02) 479 9461). Participating shops will issue a global refund cheque that should be stamped at customs and then cashed upon leaving the country. Culture Brussels’ cultural life – or lives, rather, as the scene is linguistically split between French and Flemish – is booming, in spite of a lack of funding partly caused by the language divide. Obviously, some art forms cross all language boundaries. French-Belgian cinema came to prominence in 1994, with Jan Bucquoy’s hilarious La Vie Sexuelle des Belges, while the more serious Flemish film, Daens (1992), directed by Stijn Coninx, was nominated Best Foreign Film at the 1992 Oscars. Contemporary dance came into its own in the 1980s, thanks to Flemish choreographer Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker (Rosas Company) and Wim Vandekeybus (Ultima Vez Company). Theatre is celebrated annually during the Kunstenfestivaldesarts (tel: (02) 7022 2199, for the box office or (02) 219 0707). The next festival takes place 3 May-25 May 2003. Opera is performed at the prestigious Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie, Place de la Monnaie (tel: (02) 229 1211; website: www.lamonnaie.be), where the rousing performance of an Auber opera provoked the audience into starting the Belgian revolution in 1830. Notable touring companies to perform here include the RSC and Comédie Française. The principal cross-cultural venue is the Victor Horta-designed Palais des Beaux Arts, Rue Ravenstein 23 (tel: (02) 507 8200), which hosts major temporary art exhibitions, French theatrical productions, classical and contemporary dance, classical music and the finals for the internationally renowned Queen Elizabeth music competition. The Cirque Royal, Rue de l’Enseignement 81 (tel: (02) 218 2015; website: www.cirque-royal.org), allows for varied performances in the round, including classical music, dance, musicals and opera. The Halles de Schaerbeek, Rue Royale Sainte-Marie 22A (tel: (02) 227 5960), hosts large-scale operatic, theatrical and dance performances and pop acts. Flemish-language theatre and contemporary dance is well represented at the neo-Baroque Koninklijke Vlaamse Schouwberg or Royal Flemish Theatre, Rue de Laeken 146 (tel: (02) 412 7070 or 412 7050). While the venue is being renovated – the planned date of completion is July 2003 – shows are being performed at Rue Delaunoy 58, in a disused brewery known locally as De Bottelarij. The ‘What’s On’ section of English-language Bulletin, the Wednesday pull-out section of Le Soir and the ‘Agenda’ section of the Brussel Deze Week free newspaper, available every Thursday, all provide cultural listings. Information and tickets are available at the Brussels Tourist Office and the Fnac store at the City 2 shopping complex, Rue Neuve (tel: (02) 275 1111). the Fnac booking line (tel (0900) 00600) is for concert, theatre and exhibition theatre tickets. Ticket prices are usually around €13-70 for dance and theatre performances, anything from €15-90 for opera and approximately €6 for cinema. Music: The national opera house, at the Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie, Place de la Monnaie (tel: (02) 229 1211; website: www.lamonnaie.be), continues to excel. With only 1200 seats, it is best to book in advance. For Flemish opera, take a trip to Vlaamse Opera, Van Ertbornstraat 8, Antwerp (tel: (03) 233 6685; website: www.vlaamseopera.be), or Ghent's Schouwburg Straat 3 (tel: (09) 225 2425). The Palais des Beaux Arts, Rue Ravenstein 23 (tel: (02) 507 8200), is home to the National Orchestra and Philharmonic Society, which organises most of the major concerts in Brussels. The season, annually consisting of over 350 concerts, runs from September to June. In addition to these major venues, there is the intimate Conservatoire Royal de Musique, Rue de la Régence 30 (tel: (02) 513 4587), which is tailor-made for chamber recitals. The auditorium at Musée d’Art Ancien, Rue de la Régence 3 (tel: (02) 508 3211), hosts lunchtime concerts on Wednesday, from Autumn to Easter. Theatre: There are over 30 theatres in Brussels. The leading French-language Théâtre National, lost its home at the Centre Rogier (currently being demolished) and has taken up temporary residence in a disused Art Deco cinema palace at Boulevard Anspach 85 (tel: (02) 203 5303). Here aficionados can find polished renditions of classical European theatre. A permanent venue for the National Theatre is under construction at Boulevard Emile Jacqmain – the planned date of completion is 2004. The main Flemish theatre, Kaaitheater (tel: (02) 201 5959) has two locations – Kaaitheater, Place Sainctelette 20 and Kaaitheater Studios, Rue Notre-Dame de Sommeil 81. Innovative productions are performed in French at the Théâtre le Public, Rue Braemt 64-70 (tel: (02) 223 2966), while literary discussions and readings take place at the Théâtre-Poème, Rue d’Ecosse 30 (tel: (02) 538 6358). The American Theatre Company (e-mail: actbrussels@yahoo.com; website: www.act-brussels.org) is an English-language theatre group based in Brussels, staging performances at The Studio Theatre, Rue Waelhem 73, Schaerbeek. The one venue not to be missed is the Théâtre de Toone, Impasse Schuddeveld 6, Petite Rue de Bouchers 21 (tel: (02) 511 7137), where classics such as Faust and King Lear are performed by marionettes manipulated by seven puppeteers. Performances are in French (peppered with local dialect), Flemish and occasionally English. Dance: De Keersmaecker’s Rosas Company is closely linked to the Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie, Place de la Monnaie (tel: (02) 229 1211; website: www.lamonnaie.be), while the works of radical choreographers – also contemporary music and avant-garde theatre – are often staged at the Kaaitheater, Place Sainctelette 20 (tel: (02) 201 5959), and Koninklijke Vlaamse Schouwburg (Royal Flemish Theatre), Rue de Laeken 146 (tel: (02) 412 7070 or 412 7050; website: www.kvs.be). Alternative music, dance and theatre is performed at the trendy Beursschouwdurg, Rue de la Caserne 37 (tel: (02) 513 8290; website: www.beursschouwdurg.vgc.be). From September 2003, this venue will relocate to Rue Dansaert. Although contemporary dance is extremely strong in Brussels, there is no dedicated dance venue. An interest in classical dance is best pursued at the Royal Ballet of Flanders (website: www.koninklijkballetvanvlaanderen.be) in Antwerp. Film: About 50% of films are shown in English (‘VO’ – version originale), with French and Flemish subtitles. Programmes change each Wednesday. Hollywood blockbusters are shown at the 12-screen, ultra-modern UGC De Brouckère, Place de Brouckère 38 (tel: (02) 218 5725 or (0900) 10440). The cinema also puts on children’s films every Sunday morning at 1100, for only €1.60 per person (standard rates are €6.60). The UGC Acropole, Galerie de la Toison d’Or 17 (tel: (02) 289 7130), is another mainstream venue, also serving up cinema and breakfast from 1000 Saturday – Les Petits Déjeuners du Cinéma. State-of-the-art Kinepolis, Boulevard du Centenaire 20 (tel: (02) 474 2600 or (0900) 00555), in Heysel, boasts 28 auditoriums and Europe’s largest IMAX screen. The centrally located Actors Studio, Petite Rue des Bouchers 16 (tel: (02) 512 1696) specialises in arthouse cinema. Cultural events: Each year, Brussels is at the heart of a lively cultural calendar, including the arts festival, Kunstenfestivaldesarts, in May, the spectacular Ommegang procession in July and the Meyboom celebration in August, a key event in the Brussels heritage calendar, when costumed giants carry a maypole from the Place des Sablons to the Grand Place, for maypole dancing. The origins of the traditional Ommegang pageant are rooted in the 13th century, when aristocrats, the nobility and master guildsmen paid homage to the sovereign in a solemn procession. Today, a lively procession recreates the medieval event. The year 2003 goes overboard for Jacques Brel, with exhibitions at the Jacques Brel Centre, Vieille Halle aux Blés 11 (tel: (02) 511 1020), and Belgian Centre for Comic Strips, Rue des Sables 20 (tel: (02) 219 1980), guided walks and film screenings. Literary Notes Brussels sheltered Karl Marx in exile and it was here that he wrote the Communist Manifesto in February 1848. Victor Hugo was temporarily protected at Place des Barricades 4, before being exiled once again for protesting about the government’s ban on refugees. Perhaps the best literary ambassador of Brussels is the boy reporter, Tintin, created by Hergé (Georges Remy, 1907-1983). Brussels-born Jacques Brel – the celebrated singer-songwriter of Ne Me Quitte Pas/Don’t Leave Me (1959) has been adopted by the French as their own, as has detective writer Georges Simenon, Marguerite Yourcenar and other Belgian luminaries. But Belgium developed its own national literary identity during the Symbolist movement and writers like Emile Verhaeren, Charles Van Lerberghe and the Nobel Prize-winner, Maurice Maeterlinck, created a misty, dreamy ambience for Art Nouveau Brussels. This taste for the fantastic and otherworldly, hidden in the hearts of staid Brussels burghers, was continued by Henri Michaux and the surreal visions of Magritte and Delvaux. This vision was shared by the comic artists too. Belgians have commandeered the Francophone comic book industry – Hergé is just the tip of the iceberg, proof that Belgians do whimsy and goofy charm far better than the French. For a British take on Brussels, readers should try the modern bestseller, Travels as a Brussels Scout (1997), by London-born author Nick Middleton. Nightlife Brussels’ location at the heart of Europe encourages top artists and budding stars to tour here. However, the city has a thriving homegrown scene of its own. Jazz has been strong since the 1920s and there is year-round live jazz in a cluster of venues, climaxing in the annual Brussels Jazz Festival. The club scene is relatively new, drawing the crowds after much lingering in the city’s many bars and Irish pubs that overflow with expatriates. The legal drinking age in Belgium is 15 years and the price of a beer is around €2. Aside from the tacky discos for tourists, there is the big-name-DJ-drawing Fuse. The best send out their sounds into the night, around Place de St-Géry, Manneken-Pis and in the Marolles district. Clubs open at 2300, heat up at midnight and survive until about 0600. Being foreign and dressed in tune with the club’s image helps the admission process along considerably. Entrance is sometimes free but will more likely cost about €7. The Fnac, in the City 2 complex on Rue Neuve, is the best place for club tickets, although the Tourist Office on Grand-Place may also be of help. Perhaps the highlight of the clubbing year is the Klinkende Munt outdoor music festival, held every July in Brussels at the Place de la Monnaie, Petit-Chateau and the Beursschouwburg. Listings and information on nightlife events in Brussels can be found online (website: www.funinbrussels.com/midnight/discotheque.htm or www.noctis.com). Bars: Most of the city’s trendy bars are to be found on or around Place St Gery. These include Mappa Mundo, Zebra and Roi des Belges. Java, in Rue St-Gery, is another good bar and has the added advantage of a basement dancefloor at weekends. Close-by, at Rue Borgval 14, is the Café Central, the ideal place to while away the hours, listen to the occasional jazz concert during the week and catch the resident DJ spinning tunes at weekends. Central beer havens include La Bécasse, Rue de Tabora 11, A La Mort Subite, Rue Montagne aux Herbes Potagères, and La Rose Blanche, Grande-Place 11. Le Soleil, Rue des Capucins 63, is an intimate little bar, tailor-made for an evening of good beer and good chats. A number of bars transform into clubs as the night wears on, including lively Le Sud, Rue de l’Ecuyer 43-5, open Thursday to Saturday. A quieter evening is on offer at the Théâtre de Toone VII, Impasse Schuddeveld 6, off Petite Rue de Bouchers, where puppets form a backdrop to the drinking. Casinos: There is a casino in nearby Naumur. The Casino de Naumur, Avenue Baron Moreau 1, is open daily 1400-0500. Visitors are required to hold a passport of ID document and dress code is smart (strictly no trainers). The minimum age for entry is 21 years. Clubs: Top international DJs play techno, house and jungle at The Fuse, Rue Blaes 208. Mirano Contintal, Chemin de Louvain 38, is tacky with a yuppie crowd, while Le Bal, Boulevard du Triomphe, is just tacky. Tourists may meet other tourists at Espace de Nuit, Rue Marché aux Fromages, near Grand-Place, while most of the hipper clubs have a gay (and sometimes a lesbian) night. Tels Quels magazine (in French) has the most comprehensive gay nightlife listings. Bazaar, Rue des Capucins 63, creates an Arabian atmosphere with colourful décor and boasts a basement dancefloor and airy, upstairs café-bar. This is the place for cocktails, dancing and the odd concert. Live music: Jazz dominates the live music scene in Brussels. There is jazz on Saturday and most Sundays at L’Archiduc, Rue Antoine Dansaert 6. Frequent concerts at Fool Moon, Quai de Mariemont 26, featuring anything from jazz-funk to drum‘n’bass and Latin music. Although VK is a trek away at Rue de l’Ecole 76, this is where alternative sounds – hip hop, rock and indie music – are given a hearing. Magasin 4, Rue du Magasin 4, offers a more central venue for indie and hip hop. Folk fans should try Thunderbird Café, Quai du Commerce 48, where there are usually twice-weekly gigs on offer, as well as good food. The main venues for touring big-names are the Forest National, Avenue du Globe 36, and AB (Ancienne Belgique), Boulevard Anspach, for the bigger gigs, and Botanique, Rue Royale 236, and Cirque Royal, Rue de l’Enseignement 81, for smaller acts. City Statistics Location: Brussels region, Belgium. Country dialling code: 32. Population: 134,243 (city); 954,460 (metropolitan area). Religion: Majority Catholic, with important Protestant, Jewish and Muslim communities. Time zone: GMT + 1. Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin round plugs are standard. Average January temp: 3°C (37.5°F). Average July temp: 17.5°C (63.5°F). Annual rainfall: 740mm (29 inches). Special Events Jacques Brel, exhibitions, guided walks and screenings, Jan onwards, Jacques Brel Centre, Vieille Halle aux Blés 11 and Belgian Centre for Comic Strips, Rue des Sables 20 Animation and Cartoon Festival, Feb-Mar, Auditorium du Passage 44, Boulevard du Jardin Botanique International Festival of Films of the Fantastic, Thrillers and Science Fiction, Mar, Passage 44 and Nova Ars Musica, contemporary music festival, Mar, various venues Baroque Spring Festival at Sablon, Baroque music festival, Apr, Sablon district Brussels Film Festival, Apr, Flagey Kunstenfestivaldesarts, dance, theatre and opera festival, May, various venues Brussels Gay Pride, early May, various venues Zinneke Parade, cultural festival, late May, Grand-Place Brussels Jazz Marathon, late May, Grand-Place and various venues Couleur Café, world music concerts, late Jun, Thurn et Taxis Building Ommegang, procession, early Jul, Grand Place Visits to the Royal Palace Jul-Sep, Royal Palace Meyboom, traditional pageant with maypole dancing, Aug, Place des Sablons to Grand-Place Flower Carpet, thousands of begonias re laid out in gorgeous designs, mid-Aug, Grand-Place Brussels Heritage Days, free admission to museums and public buildings not usually open to the general public, mid-Sep, various venues Audi-Jazz Festival, Oct-Nov, various venues Sablon Nights, antiques and art galleries festival, late Nov, Sablon district Christmas Market, Dec, Grand Place Ice Skating, late Dec-early Jan, Fish Markt Cost of Living On 1 January 2001, the Belgian Franc was replaced by the Euro. One-litre bottle of mineral water: €0.74 33cl bottle of beer: €0.62 Financial Times newspaper: €2.23 36-exposure colour film: €4.96 City-centre bus ticket: €1.36 Adult football ticket: €8.86-12.39 Three-course meal with wine/beer: €13-50 1 Euro (€1) = £0.68; US$1.07; C$1.62; A$1.80; BFr40.34 1 Belgian Franc (BFr1) = €0.02 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Business Services Business Contacts: Brussels Chamber of Industry and Commerce (CCIB) Avenue des Arts 1-2, B10 Kunstlaan, 1210 Brussels Tel: (02) 209 0550. Fax: (02) 209 0568. E-mail: fedcci@cci.be Website: www.cci.be Belgium-Luxembourg Chamber of Commerce in Great Britain (UK) Berkeley House, 73 Upper Richmond Road, London SW15 2SZ Tel: (020) 8877 9263. Fax: (020) 8877 3961. E-mail: info@blcc.co.uk Website: www.blcc.co.uk Belgian-American Chamber of Commerce in the United States (USA) 24th Floor, 575 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10022 Tel: (212) 319 7080. Fax: (212) 319 7086. E-mail: info@belcham.org Website: www.belcham.org There is no Belgian Chamber of Commerce in Canada. Canadian nationals should contact the Brussels Chamber of Industry and Commerce (see above). There is no Belgian Chamber of Commerce in Australia. Australian nationals should contact the Brussels Chamber of Industry and Commerce (see above). Business library L’Office Belge de Commerce Extérieur (World Trade Centre) Boulevard du Roi Albert II, 30, 1000 Brussels Tel: (02) 206 3707 or 3511. Fax: (02) 203 1812. E-mail: info@obcebdbh.be Website: www.obcebdbh.be Convention and meeting planner Brussels Congress Rue du Musée 6, 1000 Brussels Tel: (02) 549 5050. Fax: (02) 549 5059. E-mail: info@brussels-congress.be Website: www.brussels-congress.be Provides an advisory service for the planning of small meetings to large congresses (10-5000 delegates) and publishes a useful ‘Let’s Meet in Brussels’ brochure. Convention and meeting venues Brussels Exhibition Centre Place de Belgique, 1020 Brussels Tel: (02) 474 8277. Fax: (02) 474 8390. E-mail: peb@bruexpo.be Website: www.bruexpo.be Provides a surface area of 13,000 sq metres (140,000 sq ft) containing 14 conference rooms, 12 exhibition halls and a new auditorium seating 2000 delegates. Palais des Congrès de Bruxelles (Brussels Congress Centre) Coudenberg 3, 1000 Brussels Tel: (02) 515 1311. Fax: (02) 515 1310. E-mail: congres.info@palcobru.be Website: www.palcobru.be The 4200-sq-metre (45,208 sq ft) Congress Centre is located close to Grand-Place, near the city’s luxury hotels. It contains 12 fully equipped conference and committee rooms for 40-1200 people and excellent simultaneous interpreting and video-conferencing facilities. Large rooms (ranging from 80 sq metres (860 sq ft) to 2200 sq metres (124,000 sq ft)), are easily adapted for large exhibitions. Office equipment hire Arc Computer Renting Avenue E Bockstael 111, 1020 Brussels Tel: (02) 426 0940. Fax: (02) 426 1172. Cerix Short Term PC Rental Rue de Strasbourg 3, 1130 Brussels Tel: (02) 702 3636. Fax: (02) 702 3600. E-mail: info.be@cerix.com Website: www.cerix.com Secretarial services Assoc Interim Rue Fassé aux Loups 26, 1000 Brussels Tel: (02) 219 7200. Fax: (02) 219 6530. E-mail: assoc@associnterim.be Website: www.interimpartnership.be Manpower Interim Avenue Louise 523, 1050 Brussels Tel: (02) 639 1070. Fax: (02) 639 1071. E-mail: info@manpower.be Website: www.manpower.be Wings Interim Rue Dejonker 51, 1060 Brussels Tel: (02) 537 7240. Fax: (02) 539 3505. E-mail: wings.sa@skynet.be Translation services American Translation Avenue de Mai 36, 1200 Brussels Tel: (02) 771 2604. Fax: (02) 762 6850. E-mail: americ.translation@skynet.be Berlitz Avenue des Arts 36, 1040 Brussels Tel: (02) 513 9272. Fax: (02) 512 2236. E-mail: translations@berlitzglobalnet.be Website: www.berlitz.com BLS (Brussels Language Service) Rue du Marteau 8, 1210 Brussels Tel: (02) 217 2373. Fax: (02) 217 6451. Unusual conference venue Château Ste-Anne Rue du Vieux Moulin 103, 1160 Brussels Tel: (02) 660 2900. Fax: (02) 673 1353. History 695-712 The Bishop of Cambria and Arras, St Vindicien, lives his whole life on the site of Brussels 966 First written mention of Bruocsella (Brussels) in a decree from Emperor Otton the Great 1100 Brussels gains its first walled fortifications 1357 Work begins on the second walled fortifications and their seven gates (an area that is now covered by the inner ring road) 1402 The foundation stone for Brussels Town Hall (completed in 1455) is laid 1404 The Burgundian period commences, with Antoine, son of Philip the Good, proclaimed Regent of Brabant 1436 Rogier de la Pasture is made the official artist of Brussels 1467-77 Reign of Charles the Bold 1531 Brussels is made capital of the Spanish Netherlands 1568 The Counts of Egmont and Hornes are beheaded for high treason on the orders of the Duke of Alba, the Spanish viceroy 1569 Brueghel dies in his house in Rue Haute 1577 Supporters of the Prince of Orange rise up against Philip II 1585 A second uprising against the Spanish is unsuccessful 1599 Isabella (daughter of Philip II) and her husband Albert reside in Brussels 1617 Rue Neuve is laid out 1695 The Marshal de Villeroy orders French troops to bombard Brussels and Grand-Place 1703 Brussels Chamber of Commerce is founded 1715 The Treaty of Utrecht decrees that Brussels becomes Austrian 1719 Unsuccessful uprising againt Joseph II results in the beheading of the Dean of the Guilds, François Anneessens 1731 Coudenberg Palace is destroyed by fire 1794 The Directory annexes the Catholic Netherlands to France 1814-30 Brussels becomes joint capital with the Hague of the Kingdom of the Netherlands 1815 Following Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo, the Treaty of Vienna puts Belgium under Dutch control 1830 The Belgian Revolution leads to independence, with Brussels capital of the new kingdom 1831 Léopold Saxe-Coburg rules over an independent Belgium of 100,000 inhabitants 1865 Following the death of Léopold I, his son Léopold II accedes to the throne 1866 Cholera epidemic in Brussels; the polluted Senne River is buried underground 1871 The great boulevards of Brussels are constructed 1880 International Exhibition in celebration of the 50th Anniversary of Belgian independence 1909 Léopold II dies with no male heir; his nephew, Albert I, becomes king 1928 Victor Horta completes the Palais des Beaux Arts 1934 Albert I dies in a fatal rock-climbing accident; his son Léopold III succeeds to the throne 1944 Charles, brother of Léopold II, becomes Regent 1951 The Regent abdicates; his son Baudoin I accedes to the throne 1958 Expo 58 universal exhibition runs for six months at the Heysel 1959 Following the Treaty of Rome (1957), Brussels is nominated the headquarters of the European Community 1967 Nato establishes its headquarters in the city 1980 150th Independence Anniversary celebrations 1992 Belgium becomes a federal state 1993 King Badouin I dies, his brother Albert accedes to the throne 2000 Brussels is a European City of Culture Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.