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_City Overview Dallas is a young city with all the vigour of youth. Effigies of modern architecture rise like glass trees out of the Downtown area. In 1841, it was simply a plan of 20 streets on the 256 hectares (640 acres) of south central America, claimed by a Tennessee lawyer, John Neely Bryan. Today, it is the ninth largest city in the USA and the eastern half of the ‘Metroplex’ – the western ‘other half’ being Fort Worth. As with so many great cities in the USA, railways were the key to a sudden blossoming of a former outpost. As a frontier post of the ‘Wild West’, Dallas established its reputation as a place for entrepreneurs and go-getters. The infamous Doc Holliday started out here as a dentist, before moving on to ‘alternative’ employment. In the 1870s, two railroads – the Missouri, Kansas and Texas Line and the Texas and Pacific Railroad – met at Dallas, creating the catalyst for the city’s rapid development as a trade centre. From then on, a series of public and private enterprises made sure that Dallas was known well beyond the State of Texas. Before any financial and primary industry arrived, however, the Nieman Marcus store put Dallas on the fashion map in 1907. In 1914, the Federal Reserve Bank was established and Dallas Love Airfield was developed in 1927. Then ‘black gold’ made its mark. A prospector named ‘Dad’ Joiner struck oil 160km (100 miles) east of Dallas in 1930, leading to the development of the East Texas Oilfield. Dallas was already a financial and business centre and so could easily become a focus for the nascent oil industry. Never content to rest on its success, Dallas has always kept up with technological advances. In 1958, the integrated-circuit computer chip was invented here, leading to a whole burgeoning of industries in ‘Silicon Prairie’. Despite all its business acumen, Dallas is not a city that sneers at having fun. The margarita cocktail and the Tex-Mex chicken fajita are both Dallas innovations. Unfortunately for Dallas, despite all its zeal and innovative energy, it will always be remembered for one, if not two, shootings. The first and most shocking occurred on 22 November 1963, when President J F Kennedy was assassinated in his convertible limousine in Downtown Dallas. The second shooting may only have been fictional but, when J R Ewing was shot by an unknown killer in the TV series Dallas, it caused upheavals and whisperings in all the 96 countries where it was screened. But Dallas – the city – is always looking to the future. Transport again proved to be a new stimulus for development when, in conjunction with Fort Worth, the decision to build a new and huge airport (DFW) was made, fulfilling John Neely Bryan’s original idea of creating a powerful inland port and cultural focus. In true Texas fashion, this is a city meant for superlatives and mind-boggling statistics. Dallas has more shopping centres than any other US city, while the world’s largest bronze monument stands at the Dallas Convention Center, which is itself big enough to accommodate not only a whole baseball field but also the longest recorded hit of a home run, which flies well beyond the turf. Whether visited in the mild winters or hot summers, when air conditioning is an absolute necessity, Dallas offers true southern hospitality, be it in a humble apartment or in the Mansion on Turtle Creek, the only US hotel rated in the world’s top ten. And with a tenth of its workforce in the hospitality industry, Dallas is always a welcoming city. Getting There By Air Dallas-Fort Worth International Airport (DFW) Tel: (972) 574 4420 or 574 8888 (recorded information). Website: www.dfwairport.com The airport is 30km (18 miles) from Downtown Dallas, about 30 minutes by road. It has four passenger terminals – A, B, C and E – that carry around 60 million passengers per year. From here, any major US, Canadian or Mexican city is only four hours away. Major airlines: Most airlines use terminal B. National airlines include American Airlines (tel: (214) 267 1151 or (800) 433 7300), Continental Airlines (tel: (972) 263 0523 or (800) 525 0280) and United Airlines (tel: (800) 241 6522). Other carriers include AeroMexico, British Airways, Canadian Airlines and Lufthansa. Airport facilities: All the terminals are well served by a range of eating and drinking outlets, gift shops, bureaux de change, a barber’s shop and ATMs. Tourist information is available, as are all the major car hire firms – Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz, National and Thrifty. Business facilities: There is no dedicated business area. Transport to the city: Visitors should remember that the Dallas-Fort Worth conurbation is locally referred to as the ‘Metroplex’. Taxis are found on the upper terminal level and cost around US$38 (basic rate) into the Dallas city centre (journey time – 30 minutes). Otherwise all other ground transport is found on the lower level, where there is a general transport information office (tel: (972) 574 5878). Several shuttle services operate from the airport including Big Tex Shuttle (tel: (214) 841 1900), Classic Shuttle (tel: (214) 841 1900), Discount Shuttle (tel: (817) 267 5150) and SuperShuttle (tel: (817) 329 2001; website: www.supershuttle.com). There is no train service into Dallas, although two lines link the airport terminals internally. The Dallas Area Rapid Transit (DART) system (tel: (214) 979 1111 or 749 2504; website: www.dart.org) provides bus services to the nearest urban train system (also a DART operation) in the Downtown area. These run from between 0445 and 2245, from outside the airport car parks (North Shuttle and South Shuttle), which can be accessed by a free airport bus. Bus 202 goes to Dallas from North Shuttle Park (US$2 one way) and bus 409 goes from South Shuttle (US$1 one way). Many hotels operate their own courtesy shuttle service. Dallas Love Field (DAL) Tel: (214) 670 6073. Located ten kilometres (six miles) from Downtown, this was the sole city airport until DFW opened in 1974. Today, it is a regional airport served by national airlines. Major airlines: DAL is a major hub for Southwest Airlines (tel: (800) 435 9792; website: www.southwest.com) but American Airlines and Continental also frequently use the airport. Airport facilities: These are limited to eating places and basic shops. Car hire is available from all the major providers, such as Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz and National. Business facilities: None. Transport to the city: All ground transport is found at the main terminal lobby and baggage-claim area. DART (tel: (214) 979 1111 or 749 2504; website: www.dart.org) bus 539 goes to Downtown Dallas 0600-2230, costing US$1 (journey time – 20 minutes). Taxis are also available and cost approximately US$15 to Dallas. Approximate flight times to Dallas: From London is 9 hours 30 minutes; from New York is 4 hours 15 minutes; from Los Angeles is 3 hours 15 minutes; from Toronto is 3 hours 35 minutes and from Sydney is 17 hours. Arrival/departure tax: US$36 arrival tax and US$15 departure tax are included in ticket. Getting There By Road The motorway (interstate and freeway) network in America is very good. The general rule for numbering on US freeways and interstates is that the odd numbers go north–south and the even numbers go east–west over their whole length, although at any single, localised point it may seem different. Interstates are indicated by the letter ‘I’, while ‘S’ and ‘L’ stand for ‘spur’ and ‘loop’ respectively. Driving is on the right. The speed limits on the different motorways can vary – the general maximum is 90kph (55mph) but some rural interstates allow limits of 110kph (70mph). Town residential areas can be as slow as 30kph (20mph), with specifically posted limits near schools. It is illegal to pass a yellow ‘School Bus’ when it is stationary with its lights flashing. It is possible to turn right on a red light, after stopping to check that it is clear. Seatbelts are obligatory for front-seat passengers. Prosecution for drink-driving is severe – the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.10%. The minimum driving age is 16 years. A British driving licence is valid but a temporary International Driving Permit is also a good idea, as it carries a photograph. Third party insurance is mandatory, although it is highly recommended for driving visitors to ensure that they have adequate travel medical insurance, as the cost of medical treatment in the USA is huge. Petrol (‘gas’) is four to five times cheaper in the USA than it is in Europe. Virtually all ‘gas stations’ are open 24 hours a day on main roads and operate a pre-pay system, using a credit card at the pumps – otherwise, it is necessary to make yourself known to the cashier. The American Automobile Association – AAA (tel: (800) 222 1333) provides information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries. It is necessary to report a serious accident to the authorities – Accident Report (tel: (214) 670 4455) and Accident Investigation (Follow-up) (tel: (214) 670 6954). Emergency breakdown service: AAA (800) AAA HELP/222 4357 Routes to the city: Dallas is encircled by a motorway link road – to the north and east it is the I-635 (the LBJ Freeway), the south the I-20 and to the west it is the L-12 (north part) and S-20 (south part). Various interstates meet this beltway and pass on towards the city centre. The ones that go right across the city are the north–south I-35, which goes to Austin and San Antonio in the south and the east–west I-30, which goes to Fort Worth in the west. The other major interstates are I-75 (the Central Expressway) from the north, the I-67 from the southwest, the I-80 from the east, the I-175 and the I-45 from the southeast, which links to Houston. Driving times to Dallas: From Austin – 4 hours; from Houston – 4 hours; from San Antonio – 6 hours. Coach services: Greyhound Buses (tel: (800) 231 2222; website: www.greyhound.com) operate out of the bus station at 205 South Lamar Street (tel: (214) 655 7082). The facilities are limited to a café, ATMs, vending machines and toilets with disabled access. Greyhound operates coaches throughout America. Getting There By Rail A good standard of service, with modern networks and rolling stock, is provided by Amtrak (tel: (214) 653 1101 or (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com), which uses Union Station, 401 South Houston Street (tel: (214) 653 1101), on the western side of Downtown. Facilities are limited to a café, ATMs, vending machines and car hire. Rail services: The two major routes out of Dallas are northeast to Chicago (journey time – 22 hours), at 1515 on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday and southwest to San Antonio (journey time – 9 hours 30 minutes), with connections available to other destinations. Transport to the city: Taxis are available. DART (tel: (214) 979 1111 or 749 2504; website: www.dart.org) buses and the light commuter rail service connect here. There is also a pedestrian tunnel to the Hyatt Regency Hotel. Getting Around Public Transport It is impossible to enjoy Dallas without some form of transport, partly because the city is too spread out but also because the heat is oppressive for much of the year. Public transport buses and trains are operated by the Dallas Area Rapid Transit (DART) authority (tel: (214) 749 3278; website: www.dart.org). The urban light railway and the commuter line, which are separate lines in the south and north, combine to form a single route in the Downtown area. The system operates 0400-2400. Single fares on bus and rail cost US$1 and a one-day pass costs US$2. Longer period passes are also available. There are express services, which cost double. Tickets must be purchased with exact change in cash. Alternatively, prepaid tickets can be purchased from most grocery stores or from vending machines at the station, although passes are only sold from the machines. The new classic-style DART electric trolley bus service has started in short circular Downtown routes, costing US$0.50 per journey. There are also the McKinney Avenue Transit Authority (tel: (214) 855 0006) trolley buses, which specifically connect the Downtown Arts District with the Uptown areas’ shops, boutiques, restaurants and galleries. The system has four authentically restored cars from the early 20th century. Taxis Taxis operate 24 hours. Three of the main cab companies are Checker Cab and Yellow Cab of Dallas – both at the same depot (tel: (214) 426 6262) – and Terminal Cab (tel: (214) 350 4445). Fares start at the base rate of US$1.50, then increase at US$0.30 per mile – prices become more expensive into the night. Charges are higher if toll roads need to be used and there are minimum charges for trips going beyond the city limit and particularly to DFW airport. A tip of 10% is expected. Limousines As would be expected in a town famed for its oil riches, luxury chauffeur-driven cars are readily available. There are at least 13 companies including AAdvantage Limousine (tel: (972) 618 7313), Accent Limousines (tel: (972) 274 2500), Adams Gold Star Limousine (tel: (214) 361 6125), The Carey Companies (tel: (214) 638 4828), Dallas Limousine Service (tel: (972) 910 9090), DFW Limousine (tel: (972) 241 1500; website: www.dfw.limousine.com) and Sunrise Limousine Services (tel: (817) 467 9207). Rates start from US$75 per hour ($65 weekdays) for a six-seater, with a three-hour minimum hire. Driving in the City Driving in Downtown Dallas at the weekends is feasible for the visitor, since the streets are relatively quiet. Rush hour (0700-0930 and 1600-1830) in the week is just the opposite and very frustrating – this is to be avoided. The Dallas Downtown is essentially on a north–south grid layout, although north of Pacific Avenue, the grid is skewed slightly and angled more on a northwest–southeast axis. The same happens south of Young Street. Circling the whole Downtown is a freeway, known as the Central Expressway at the northeast corner and east side, the Thornton Freeway at the southern edge, becoming Stemmons Freeway up the west side and then Woodall Rogers across the northern edge. There are two toll roads in Dallas. One is the North Tollway, which goes from Downtown up into Collin County. There are tolls at various points along it, ranging from US$0.40 to US$0.75. Exact change is necessary and can be thrown into a wide coin-catching basket. Locals will have automatic toll smart-cards attached to their windscreens, so they appear to be going through without paying. The other toll road is the Mountain Creek Bridge in southwestern Dallas County, costing US$0.50. There are meters and parking lots all over the Downtown, which can be expensive, except at weekends. Visitors should read meters carefully as timings will be enforced. Fees vary according to location and are upwards from US$1. Car Hire A foreign driver's licence, provided that it is in English, is valid in Dallas, although an International Driving Permit is also a good idea, as this carries a photograph, unlike the British driver's licence. Insurance will be part of the hire arrangement, although drivers should check what this entails. The minimum age for hiring a car is usually 21-23 years. Car hire is available from Alamo (tel: (972) 453 0326 or (800) 327 9633; website: www.goalamo.com), Avis (tel: (972) 574 4130 or (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (817) 329 8700 or (800) 527 0700; website: www.budgetrentacar.com), Dollar (tel: (972) 929 8888 or (800) 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com), Enterprise (tel: (214) 688 0905 or (800) 325 8007; website: www.enterprise.com), Hertz (tel: (214) 979 9494 or (800) 645 3131; website: www.hertz.com) and Thrifty (tel: (972) 453 5555 or (800) 367 2277; website: www.thrifty.com). For something with a real local flavour, visiting drivers should try Exotic Car Rental of Texas (tel: (972) 633 8183) or Rent-a-Wreck of Dallas (tel: (214) 398 7368). Rates start from around US$160 per week. Bicycle Hire Although Dallas is not the ideal city in which to cycle, bikes are available for hire from Jack Johnston Bicycles, 9005 Garland Road (tel: (214) 328 5238; fax: (214) 324 2974; website: www.jackjohnstonbicycles.com), for US$9 per hour or US$29 for 24 hours. Helmet hire is for US$4 per day. Business Business Profile Dallas thinks as big in business as it does in any other area. It is one of the leading convention centres in the USA, with nearly 100,000 employees in the hospitality industry, representing 10% of the city’s entire workforce. Unemployment at 5.6% is just above the national average of 5.4%. Over the last couple of years, only the real estate sector has shown a decline in employees (down 17%). Other sectors have been growing steadily – construction 10%, insurance 22%, investment 25% and transportation services jumping 55%. In addition, Forbes Magazine rated Dallas as ‘one of the country’s best cities for business’, where there are over 110,000 companies and around 10,000 company headquarters. Apart from California, this is one of the biggest areas for information and high technology employment, as well as being the country’s second most important location for fashion and clothing. The main business area in Dallas is located in Central Downtown. The surrounding outlying districts have their own smaller business districts. The tax position in Dallas provides an excellent incentive for business, as there are no personal or corporate income taxes or any state property taxes. This is a city that prides itself on its entrepreneurial flair, its ‘can do’ spirit, which traces itself back to the attitudes of the original founder of an Anglo-Saxon settlement here in 1841, John Neely Bryan. Oil and the hot climate have shaped business since then. Among a recent top 200 companies, as rated by The Dallas Morning Business News, are Exxon Mobil Corp (1), J C Penney Co (2), GTE Corp (3), Kimberley Clark Corp (8), Texas Instruments Inc (10), 7-Eleven Inc (12), Southwest Airlines (15) and the Tandy Corp (18). Business Etiquette Americans can often be less formal than Europeans – both in dress and manners – but here in the ‘Deep South’, it is harder to anticipate the norm. Dallas regards itself as stylish and sophisticated and there is already a tradition of formality in the south, however, Texans can dress exceptionally informally, even looking to the newcomer like TV cowboys. The degree of office formality often reflects the nature of the business – banking and legal professions will be more formal than computer (‘Silicon Prairie’) and media companies. Americans quickly use first-name terms, while still remaining focused on the business in hand. As a visitor, there is nothing wrong in being as formal as in Europe and then relaxing once the attitudes of the host have been established. Punctuality for business meetings is expected – visitors should always allow for traffic delays and aim to arrive with five to ten minutes to spare. Meetings can be at all times of the day, even a working breakfast or an evening meal, which can be a relaxed social affair or a more formal business meal. If clarification is necessary, Texans won’t mind being asked. Americans are generally very tolerant over personal needs with regard to diet, so visitors should not worry about making this clear when choosing from a menu. Alcohol consumption is treated as a personal choice, neither necessary nor obligatory. If invited to a colleague’s home for dinner, a small gift – such as a bottle of wine or something from one’s own country, a neatly wrapped box of chocolates or similar confectionery – will often be appropriate as a gesture of thanks. A ‘thank you’ card can also be sent by post after the event. Business hours are from as early as 0800 in weekdays, although 0830 is more likely. The working day usually ends around 1700. Working late is nonetheless common, nor is it unusual for people to be working well into the night or over the weekend. Business cards are commonly exchanged at meetings and e-mail is a favourite means of communication. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Dallas is a ‘high-tech’ centre, so it is not surprising to find Gameworks, 3000 Grapevine Mills Parkway (tel: (972) 539 6757; website: www.gameworks.com), out near DFW Airport. It has been created as the ‘ultimate’ high-tech entertainment centre under the guidance of, among others, Spielberg’s Dreamworks company, Sega and Universal Studios – a self-contained centre for electronic diversions, eating and drinking. Of similar interest is the NASCAR Silicon Motor Speedway, 13350 Dallas Parkway, Suite 3800 (tel: (972) 490 RACE or 7223), at the Galleria complex, featuring two racing car simulators reaching speeds of up to 320kph (200mph). For an entirely different angle on Dallas, the Deep Ellum District, whose Visitor Information Center is at 2932 Main Street, Suite 101 (tel: (214) 748 4332), was originally a warehouse and ‘speakeasy’ neighbourhood during Prohibition, where jazz and blues really took hold. There are now art galleries, theatres, restaurants and bars. ‘Ellum’ is the dialect pronunciation of ‘elm’. For another, older historical aspect of Dallas, the Freedman’s Memorial Cemetery, southwest corner of Lemmon Avenue and Central Expressway (tel: (214) 670 3284), commemorates more than 7000 of the early pioneers of the West and is built on the site of the Freedman’s (as in ‘a man given his freedom’) Cemetery that was established in the late 1850s, with the abolition of slavery. For visitors to get an overview of all this and more, a trip up the 50-storey Reunion Tower, 300 Reunion Boulevard (tel: (214) 651 1234), is essential. The tower also has a revolving cocktail lounge, night-time dancing and a restaurant. Tourist Information Visitor Information Center of Dallas Convention and Visitors Bureau Old Red Courthouse, 100 South Houston Street Tel: (214) 571 1000 or 1300 or 1301 (24-hour events hotline). E-mail: info@dallascvb.com Website: www.dallascvb.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1700, Sat and Sun 0900-1700. Other offices are located at Union Station and the Reunion Tower. Passes No tourist attraction discount passes are currently available. Key Attractions Dealey Plaza and the Sixth Floor Museum It is impossible to come to Dallas without hearing about 22 November 1963. President J F Kennedy was assassinated as his car passed by the ‘grassy knoll’ at Dealey Plaza, having been shot from the sixth floor of what was then the Texas School Book Depository building, now the Sixth Floor Museum. The Plaza is simply an outdoor grassy area on the north side of Elm Street, surmounted by a white stone, unadorned platform where people go for a few quiet and thoughtful moments. The museum, which is the most visited attraction in Dallas, gives full details of JFK’s life and times, a minute-by-minute account of events on the infamous day, exhibits, over 400 photographs, video footage and an audio tour. The actual JFK Memorial is Downtown on Main Street and Market Street, at the Dallas County Historical Plaza, and was designed by New Yorker Philip Johnson, a Kennedy family friend. Visitors who want to know more should visit the Conspiracy Museum, 110 South Market Street (tel: (214) 741 3040; website: www.conspiracymuseum.com), for a fascinating look at assassinations, cover-ups and the theories surrounding other famous US presidential and related killings, including JFK’s. 411 Elm Street Tel: (214) 747 6660. Fax: (214) 653 6657. E-mail: jfk@jfk.org Website: www.jfk.org Transport: West End station or Union Station. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Admission: US$6 (audio tour US$3 extra). Fair Park Fair Park’s 111 hectares (277 acres) was created in 1936, for the Texas Centennial Exposition. There is too much to do in one day, or even several days, as it comprises museums, concert facilities, theatres and other venues. It is best for tourists to choose what they wish to visit in advance and combine that with a stroll through the park, as the central promenade has murals and sculptures. Through its four vaulted galleries, the African-American Museum fully details African-American art and history from pre-colonial times to the present day, with permanent and temporary exhibitions. The Museum of Natural History has 60 dioramas of Texas flora and fauna, Texas dinosaur exhibits – including a huge protostega sea turtle around 90 million years old – as well as various temporary exhibitions. The Science Place and IMAX Theater incorporates the Planetarium, all in a hands-on complex with over 350 exhibits. The Women’s Museum is the parks newest opening. The Park also contains the Dallas Horticulture Center (tel: (214) 428 7476), Cotton Bowl Stadium (tel: (214) 638 2695), Hall of State (tel: (214) 421 4500; website: www.dallashistory.org), Dallas Aquarium (tel: (214) 655 1444; website: www.dallas-zoo.org), Age of Steam Railroad Museum (tel: (214) 428 0101; website: www.startext.net/homes/railroad), Texas Vietnam Veterans War Memorial (tel: (972) 579 9430) and the Fair Park Music Hall (tel: (214) 565 1116). 1300 Robert B McCullum Street Tel: (214) 670 8400. Fax: (214) 670 8907. Website: www.fairparkdallas.com Transport: Bus 11, 12, 50 or 60. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. African-American Museum 3536 Grand Avenue Tel: (214) 565 9026. Website: www.dallasblack.com Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1200-1700, Sat 1000-1700, Sun 13-1700. Admission: Free. Museum of Natural History 3535 Grand Avenue Tel: (214) 421 3466. Website: www.dallasdino.org Opening hours: Daily 1000-1900. Admission: US$6.50; free Mon 1000-1300; concessions available. The Science Place 1318 Second Avenue Tel: (214) 428 5555. Website: www.scienceplace.org Opening hours: Tues-Fri 0930-1630, Sat 0930-1730, Sun 1130-1730 (Sep-May); daily 0930-1630, Sat 0930-1730, Sun 1130-1730 (Jun-Aug). Admission: US$7.50; concessions available. The Women’s Museum 3800 Parry Avenue Tel: (214) 915 0860 Website: www.thewomensmuseum.org Opening hours: Tues 1000-2100, Wed-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700. Admission: US$5; free Tues after 1700; concessions available. Dallas Museum of Art The permanent collection galleries at the Dallas Museum of Art are spacious, allowing full appreciation of the exhibits, which cover different types of art from ancient to modern times, from the Americas, Europe, Africa and Asia. Of particular significance is the Wendy and Emery Reves Collection of Impressionist paintings. The museum shop is worth a visit for unusual gifts and souvenirs. 1717 North Harwood Street Tel: (214) 922 1200 or 1803. Website: www.dm-art.org Transport: McKinney Avenue Trolley. Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri 1100-1600; Thurs 1100-2100, Sat and Sun 1100-1700. Admission: US$6, concessions available; Free Thurs 1700-2100. Fountain Place In such a landlocked city, this square is attractive with its impressive water displays and its calming trees and streams. There are 172 ‘blubber fountains’ (low dome-shaped fountains), while the Central Court Fountain has 360 fountain heads. Around 2.25 million litres (0.5 million gallons) of water pass through the plaza and at night, coloured lights play on the shimmering cascades. The huge, 60-storey glass building is part of the design and is based on a prism, a favourite theme of architect I M Pei, who also designed the glass pyramid outside the Louvre in Paris (France, that is, not Texas). There are other designs by Pei around the city and discovering them makes a good theme for an unusual exploration. The Dallas City Hall, 1500 Marilla Street (tel: (214) 670 5111), which houses Henry Moore’s largest bronze sculpture, is one example. The Morton H Meyerson Symphony Center, 2301 Flora Street (tel: (214) 670 3600), is another. 1445 Ross Avenue, at North Field Street Tel: (214) 855 7766. Transport: DART bus or trolley or McKinney Avenue Trolley to Ross Avenue. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. Wilson Block Historic District The Wilson Block is an entire block of houses on Swiss Avenue, which Henrietta and Frederick Wilson acquired in 1899. They proceeded to build six homes on the land. The Preservation Center, based in the Wilson House, their own Queen Anne home, is open to the public and introduces the district through walking tours, film and a resource library. The district contains many houses from the same period, another particularly striking one being the Arnold House. Further out, along Swiss Avenue – beginning at block 4800 – is another historic district, the Upper Swiss Avenue Historic District (website: www.sahd.org), from La Vista to Fitzhugh Avenue. Here visitors can see more early 20th-century mansions in various styles, such as ‘gingerbread’, ‘prairie’ (after the school of architects developed by Frank Lloyd Wright) and Italianate. 2922 Swiss Avenue Tel: (214) 821 3290. Fax: (214) 821 3573. E-mail: info@preservationdallas.org Website: www.preservationdallas.org Transport: Bus 1 to Live Oak Street or 19 to Gaston Avenue. Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1600, Sat 1000-1400. Admission: Free. Further Distractions The Hand Exhibit The Hand Exhibit is certainly a unique and bizarre collection. Its full title is The Adrian E Flatt MD Hand Exhibit, named after the hand surgeon himself, who was one of the foremost of his time (b 1921). His private collection of bronze hand casts gives a rare and strange insight into some of the most well known people of the 20th century, including Sir Winston Churchill, Louis Armstrong, Katherine Hepburn and Walt Disney. The doctor developed his own casting technique, which is on display, as are shows some of the amazing results of hand surgery. Bayler University Medical Center, 3500 Gaston Avenue Tel/fax: (214) 820 7499. Transport: Bus 19. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. Afternoon Tea at the Adolphus Hotel If it is all getting too much and an oasis of calm and elegance amid the brash glass and steel of Downtown Dallas is required, the Adolphus Hotel, with its baroque splendour, is the place. The epitome of old-style southern refinement, the hotel was built in 1912, by Adolphus Busch, the Missouri beer magnate. It lays unique claim to having been described as the ‘most beautiful building west of Venice’. In its day, it was not as imprisoned by modernity as it unfortunately is today, hemmed in by other buildings. Inside, however, the city may as well be on another planet. High tea, in the English style, with a menu including the hotel’s own scones topped with Devonshire cream and raspberry marmalade, finger sandwiches, fruit tarts and hand-dipped chocolate truffles. Harney & Sons Teas provide the beverages and it is possible to arrange – in advance – a tea tasting and talk. For the very rich, dinner at the French Room, whose menu and decor are equally sumptuous, is also a possibility. 1321 Commerce Street Tel: (214) 742 8200. Fax: (214) 651 3561. Website: www.hoteladolphus.com Transport: Akard station. Opening times: Daily 1500-1700 (afternoon tea). Admission: Free. Tours of the City Walking Tours The city layout favours non-pedestrian tours, as does the summer heat. However, specific institutions have their indoor walking tours as well as occasional outdoor ones, such as with the Wilson Block Historic District (see Key Attractions) operated by the Preservation Center, 2922 Swiss Avenue (tel: (214) 821 3290; fax: (214) 821 3573; e-mail: info@preservationdallas.org; website: www.preservationdallas.org). Tours of the historic area can last anything between one or two hours, depending on the interests of the group. There is no charge as the centre is a non-profit organisation. Bus Tours A bus tour is an excellent way for visitors to understand how the city fits together, without having to battle the traffic and one-way systems. Grayline Tours (tel: (972) 263 0294 or (800) 256 4273; website: www.grayline.com) offers a variety of air-conditioned bus tours in and around the city, with professional driver-guides. Their three-hour ‘Dallas Landmarks Tour’ costs US$24 and pick up is from local hotels. Eagle Tours Inc / Longhorn Tours (tel: (972) 721 0545) and Texas Trails (tel: (972) 222 5838) offer a similar service. Other Tours The JFK Presidential Limo Tour (tel: (214) 348 7777; fax: (214) 750 0303) is exactly as its name suggests, the chance to be JFK himself (or his wife Jackie), whether out of research interest, novelty, hero worship or a means of gaining a unique and intimate acquaintance with Dallas, for US$30. The limo used in the 30-minute tour is an exact replica of the original and therefore only seats approximately five people. The tour leaves from the Conspiracy Museum, 110 South Market Street (tel: (214) 741 3040), taking the exact cavalcade route, complete with gunshots and audio effects. Excursions For Half a Day Southfork Ranch: It is impossible to visit Dallas without hearing a reference to the eponymous TV series. JR and his family’s lifestyle can be experienced ‘on location’ at Southfork Ranch, 3700 Hogge Road, Parker (tel: (972) 442 7800 or (800) 989 7800; website: www.southforkranch.com). Situated about 48km (30 miles) north of the city, visitors can reach Southfork by driving east along Parker Road, which is exit 30 of the North Central Expressway (Highway 75). Not missing any opportunity to create a winning product, there are tours of the Ewing mansion, refreshments at Miss Ellie’s Deli, gift shops, clothing stores, a tram tour and even a ‘Dallas’ Museum, which houses the ‘actual’ pistol used in the ‘actual’ killing of the infamous JR. Southfork is open daily 0900-1700, with admission costing US$6. For a Whole Day Fort Worth: To see how the other half lives (the other half of the Metroplex, that is), visitors should spend a day in the adjacent twin city known as ‘Cowtown’. Adjoining the conurbation on the west side of Dallas, with the Dallas-Fort Worth Airport joining the two, Fort Worth began as a military outpost before developing into a transport centre for shipping cattle from the surrounding ranch lands. Today, this remains an important albeit much smaller industry in a prosperous and dynamic city. The Stockyards National Historic District was the hub of the cattle industry and is now a mixture of wooden sidewalks, cowboy paraphernalia, entertainments, shopping, eating and drinking. Walking tours of about 90 minutes are available and the Tarantula Railroad runs a steam train to and from Grapevine, which is back towards DFW Airport. For a real taste of the ‘Wild West’, the best time to visit Fort Worth is between late January and early February, when the 17-day Southwestern Stock Show and Rodeo is held. Despite its ‘Cowtown’ nickname, Fort Worth is a cultural city and contains plenty of museums. Of particular interest is the Amon Carter Museum, 3501 Camp Bowie Boulevard (tel: (817) 738 1933), featuring a visual tour of the USA through the eyes of various people, including 350,000 photographs (a rotating collection) by the likes of Henri Cartier-Bresson. Fort Worth can be reached by car on the I-20 or Route 183 – also known as the Airport Freeway. The Fort Worth Convention and Visitors Bureau, 415 Throckmorton Street (tel: (817) 336 8791 or (800) 433 5747; fax: (817) 336 3283; website: www.fortworth.com), provides further information. Hotels Hotels generally charge sales tax, which currently stands at 8.25%. In addition, hotels in Dallas charge 15% lodging tax. In nearly all cases, these are not included in the quoted room rate and will be added to bills at the end of the hotel stay. The prices quoted below are the starting prices for double rooms, including VAT but excluding sales tax, lodging tax and breakfast, unless otherwise specified. Business Adams Mark This magnificently renovated downtown landmark stands out as one of the choice hotels in all of Texas. Most of the 1840 guest rooms offer exceptional views of the city, and more than 200 suites in four designs provide guests with excellent work and entertainment settings. Guests on the Concorde Level are coddled with breakfast service and evening hors d’oeuvres. There is a fully equipped health club, with indoor and outdoor swimming pools, as well as a nice selection of ballrooms and boardrooms, allowing guests to host functions for up to 5000 people. Guests should not miss a chance to have lunch or dinner at the Chaparral Club restaurant, where the food competes with sensational views of the Dallas skyline. 400 North Olive Street Tel: (214) 922 8000. Fax: (214) 922 0308. Website: www.adamsmark.com/dallas Price: US$159. Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas Renowned as home to the TPC Byron Nelson Golf Classic, a favorite stop on the PGA tour, and the Byron Nelson Golf School, the Four Seasons is a contemporary hotel affording a distinctive setting for business gatherings. Accommodating functions for up to 700 people, the sleek and elegant resort has a new ballroom, 31 multi-purpose meeting rooms and an astounding audio-visual/technology department. Along with an 18-hole championship golf course, indoor/outdoor tennis facilities, four swimming pools, jogging paths through beautiful landscape, and a fitness centre with personal training staff, there is a European-style spa to die for. Guests can select from 357 rooms and suites, most with private balconies overlooking fairways, and 50 grouped into private villas. Guests should not miss dinner at Café on the Green, one of the most highly regarded restaurants in the metro area. 4150 North MacArthur Boulevard, Irving Tel: (972) 717 0700. Fax: (972) 717 2550. Website: www.fourseasons.com/dallas Price: US$210 (including breakfast with special packages). Hyatt Regency Dallas at Reunion The skyline of ‘Big D’ was changed in the late 1970s with the arrival of this complex of mirror-faced planes, crowned by the 50-storey Reunion Tower. The landmark hotel features a dramatic, 18-storey atrium lobby and is adjacent to the vintage Union Station and the historic shopping/dining district known as the West End. A recent US$72 million expansion and renovation has kept the hotel among the best in Dallas, with three ballrooms, two exhibit halls, 55 meeting rooms, 41 hospitality suites and the city’s closest convention centre location for business travelers. In addition, there are 1122 guest rooms, a full fitness centre (accommodating guests with disabilities), an outdoor pool and six dining options. 300 Reunion Boulevard Tel: (214) 651 1234. Fax: (214) 651 0018. Website: www.dallas.hyatt.com Price: US$159. The Wyndham Anatole For about 20 years, the Southwest’s largest resort convention hotel has risen 27 storeys above the North Texas plains, offering 1620 rooms and 129 suites. Situated 3.2km (two miles) from downtown in the Dallas Market Center district, the Anatole has numerous meeting and exhibit spaces, accommodating groups of up to 1000 people. The hotel is surrounded by green lawns and park areas, and loved by travellers and locals alike due to the popularity of the Verandah Club, an outstanding fitness facility and spa. In addition, there are lighted outdoor tennis courts, a full basketball court in the gym, and indoor and outdoor jogging tracks and swimming pools. The hotel further seduces guests with a dozen restaurants and bars, as well as extra touches such as Bath & Body Works toiletries, special concierge levels and in-room safes. 2201 Stemmons Freeway Tel: (214) 748 1200. Fax: (214) 761 7520. Website: www.wyndham.com/anatole Price: US$169. Luxury Hotel Adolphus Built in 1912 by beer baron Adolphus Busch as his Texas palace, this stunning, 21-floor hotel is beloved for its baroque design details inside and out, as well as for its utter elegance. Flemish tapestries, lacquered chinoiserie dating from the 19th century, a Napoleon III oval mirror, afternoon tea, and the exquisite French Room restaurant have kept this among the most desirable destination hotels in Texas. The hotel offers an executive business centre, a small fitness centre, a gift shop and transportation by luxury sedan to various points in downtown Dallas. Guest rooms are appointed with English, Queen Anne, and Chippendale reproduction pieces, and the fabulous Terrace Suites feature outdoor patios for entertaining. Best of all, guests are just one block from the flagship Neiman Marcus store. 1321 Commerce Street Tel: (214) 742 8200. Fax: (214) 651 3561. Website: www.hoteladolphus.com Price: US$189 (including breakfast with special packages). The Mansion on Turtle Creek This 1925 version of a 16th-century Italian villa was built by cotton magnate Sheppard King as his family home. He had marble floors installed, and the construction of the cantilevered marble stairway brought engineers from across the nation to witness its construction. A vaunted Rosewood property, the hotel’s matriarch is Caroline Rose Hunt, whose personal collection of hunting trophies, paintings and lithographs decorate the restaurant and bar. Situated right next to upscale shopping in the exclusive Uptown and Turtle Creek neighborhoods, the hotel offers 143 lavishly appointed rooms and 16 stunning suites. Each room is decorated with fresh flowers, antiques, fine fabrics and original works of art, and boasts a marble bathroom. In addition, there is an outdoor swimming pool, a fitness studio, and hair and nail care beauty salon. Hollywood stars have been sighted here and celebrities frequently host weddings at the hotel. Dinner in the on-site restaurant is a memorable experience. 2821 Turtle Creek Boulevard Tel: (214) 559 2100. Fax: (214) 528 4187. Website: www.mansiononturtlecreek.com Price: US$325. Moderate Terra Cotta Inn Although tucked into a shopping centre, this retreat has the personality and warmth of a sweet, little bed and breakfast. The Spanish-style architecture, elaborate tiles and fountains imported from San Miguel de Allende in Mexico, latticework woven with blooming bougainvillea and serene swimming pool transport guests to a plane far from the busy highways and shopping malls located just a few feet away. In the 98 rooms and one suite guests will find modem points, coffee-makers, hairdryers, full bath amenities and antique reproduction furniture. Free parking is certainly a plus. 6101 LBJ Freeway Tel: (972) 387 2525. Fax: (214) 387 3784. Website: www.terracottainn.com Price: US$63 (including breakfast). Wyndham Garden Hotel Market Center With ideal proximity to the Dallas Market Center convention and exhibit halls, this hotel with 217 rooms and 11 suites is the perfect business stay. Guest rooms have good work space with modem points, in addition to coffee-makers, hairdryers and Bath & Body Works products. Professional sports fans enjoy the convenience of the fabulous new American Airlines Center, home to the Dallas Mavericks basketball team and the Dallas Stars hockey team. Thanks to Italian marble and Asian-style art in the common areas, the hotel disguises itself as a luxury property. There is also an outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, bar and reading room. 2015 Market Center Boulevard Tel: (214) 741 7481. Fax: (214) 747 6191. Website: www.wyndham.com/DallasMarketCenter Price: US$59. Other Recommendations Magnolia Hotel At its 1922 construction, this former office building was noted as one of the tallest towers west of the Mississippi River. Bearing the landmark flying red horse, Pegasus, on its roof, the 29-storey downtown hotel resulted from a multimillion-dollar transformation finished in 2000. The gorgeous, classy lodging offers 200 rooms and 130 suites, as well as meeting and event rooms for up to 100 people. Guest quarters have personal voice-mail, two telephones with modem points, business desks, refrigerators, coffee-makers, hairdryers, and cable and video games. There is a health club with steam room and excellent dining is within a quick walk. 1401 Commerce Street Tel: (214) 915 6500. Fax: (214) 253 0053. Website: www.themagnoliahotel.com Price: US$119 (including continental breakfast). Melrose Hotel Open since 1924, this divine lodging was declared a historic landmark in 1983. Easily one of the city’s favorite sites for weddings, the Melrose has hosted such well-heeled guests through the years as Elizabeth Taylor, Arthur Miller and Luciano Pavarotti. Situated in the Oak Lawn neighborhood, with wonderful convenience to top-notch dining and shopping in the Uptown and Highland Park districts, the hotel is home to the swanky Landmark Restaurant and the very popular Library Bar. Inside the 184 guest rooms and suites are marble baths with full-length towelling bathrobes and hairdryers, work desks, two-line speaker telephones with voice-mail, data ports and high-speed Internet connection, and mahogany furniture draped in luxurious fabrics. 3015 Oak Lawn Avenue Tel: (214) 521 5151. Fax: (214) 521 2470. Website: www.melrosehotel.com Price: US$159. Restaurants We have selected 25 restaurants, which we have divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. In general, there is a sales tax of 8.25% added to food and drink bills. However, in reality, this tax varies and some restaurants only add the tax to either food or drink. Tipping of around 15% is expected and in some restaurants this may be added to the bill. The prices quoted below are for a three-course meal and for a bottle of house wine or equivalent, including sales tax but excluding tips, unless otherwise stated. Gastronomic Cacharel Possibly the most respected French restaurant in North Texas, this sophisticated dining room located on top of an office building in North Arlington never disappoints. Couples celebrate special occasions and business types seal important deals over gems such as snails with mushrooms, grapes and pecans in a cream sauce or sautéed lamb noisettes in a shallot-tarragon sauce with wild mushroom risotto. The set menu changes daily but there is always a large selection of steaks, fresh fish and fowl. The dessert and wine lists are equally divine. 2221 East Lamar Boulevard, Arlington Tel: (817) 640 9981. Fax: (817) 633 5737. E-mail: cacharel@mymail.net Website: www.cacharel-restaurant.com Price: US$55. Wine: US$40. French Room By some accounts the most expensive dinner in Texas, this bastion of refinement stands as one of the most elaborate dining experiences anywhere. As beautiful as the marble-and-gold-leaf decor is the divine cuisine, urged to modernism by a youthful culinary staff. Jumbo lump crab fishcake gets a treatment of lemon grass and ginger lobster sauce, and tomato chutney, and sautéed snails combine with shiitakes, rocket and shallots to get a shot of green peppercorn sauce. Attentive service never fails beneath the watchful cherubs gracing the ceiling frescoes. Hotel Adolphus, 1321 Commerce Street Tel: (214) 742 8200. Fax: (817) 651 3561. Website: www.hoteladolphus.com Price: US$100. Wine: US$50. Jeroboam Filling the lobby of an exquisite 1913 building in the revitalizing downtown district, this immensely tasteful salute to classic French fare is pumped up with trendy touches. Chef Garreth Dickey graces his urban brasserie with genius such as plump, fried oysters topped with satiny béarnaise and freshly grated horseradish atop a giant chard leaf. The 300-entry wine list is an encyclopedic tour through France, with excellent wine in the US$25-US$30 range. 1501 Main Street Tel: (214) 748 7226. Website: www.jeroboam-ub Food: US$40. Wine: US$30. Star Canyon Executive chef Matthew Dunn took the reins from former owner-chef Stephan Pyles and continues to produce showy but gratifying fare in a millionaire’s ranch theme. Hickory-grilled lamb atop a pair of enchiladas stuffed with wild mushrooms is as impressive as corn pudding tamale, topped with seared foie gras and pineapple mole. Fashionably casual, customers await tables at the bar, sipping mango margaritas. The Centrum, 3102 Oak Lawn Avenue Tel: (214) 520 7827. Fax: (214) 521 1583. Website: www.crww.com/starcanyon/starcanyon Price: US$60. Wine: US$35. Steel Fabulous diners draped in carelessly elegant black, glowing candlelight, frosty champagne buckets and celebrity spotting are just a few irresistible elements in this Oak Lawn neighborhood hot spot. A careful melding of Japanese, Chinese, Korean, and Southeast Asian cuisines results in a menu blessed with sea bass marinated in miso and sake, seared and served with wasabi dipping sauce or monkfish with chilli, garlic, ginger and spring onions, cooked in a clay pot. The Centrum, 3102 Oak Lawn Avenue Tel: (214) 219 9908. Fax: (214) 219 9929. Website: www.steelrestaurantlounge.com Price: US$55. Wine: US$45. Business Abacus The deft touch of executive chef Kent Rathbun and his stunning wine list has earned glorious praise from national press, thanks to such pleasures as lobster and spring onion shooters, John Dory with roasted veggie orzo in charred tomato butter or grilled lamb with jalapeño-coriander oil and blue cheese grits. For an extra treat, guests should try the chef’s selection of nine small courses for US$65, or US$85 with wine, and luxuriate in the palate pampering and the soothing, sumptuous interiors. 4511 McKinney Avenue Tel: (214) 559 3111. E-mail: events@abacus-restaurant.com Website: www.abacus-restaurant.com Price: US$75. Wine: US$60. Café Ashton Café Ashton is a contemporary restaurant decorated in dark woods, with gold fabrics, etched dark blue glass elements and a beautiful granite-top bar. Irish chef Diarmud Murphy works elegant wonders in towering fashions at this gorgeous boutique hotel. A whirlwind of detail finds inspired combinations of fresh and complex foods, such as pan-seared sea bass stacked atop potatoes puréed with fresh crabmeat, all drizzled with a mustard seed butter sauce and decorated with a robust tomato-mandarin orange chutney. Ashton Hotel, 610 Main Street, Fort Worth Tel: (817) 332 0100. Fax: (817) 332 0110. Website: www.theashtonhotel.com Price: US$65. Wine: US$40. Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House Satiny cuts of prime beef head the list of palate pleasures at this clubby, leather-and-polished wood corner of luxury. Clientele typically includes the expense-account business crowd and the moneyed gentry who enjoy supping on said steaks, as well as luscious crab fishcakes, fresh fish and enormous à la carte side dishes that could be meals in themselves. Lavish evenings end with brandy and a cigar. 5251 Spring Valley Road Tel: (972) 490 9000. Fax: (214) 934 0867. Price: US$75. Wine: US$35. Mansion on Turtle Creek Acclaim for sublime service, elegant villa-style setting and food in this hallowed hotel remain sky-high, as executive chef Dean Fearing consistently offers thoughtfully conceived and beautifully executed fare. Warm lobster taco with yellow tomato salsa and jicama salad continues to be a signature, but the barbecue-rubbed pheasant with smoked shrimp gordita deserves attention too. The four-course tasting menu for US$90 is also highly recommended. 2821 Turtle Creek Boulevard Tel: (214) 559 2100. Fax: (214) 528 4187. E-mail: themansion@rosewoodhotels.com Website: www.mansiononturtlecreek.com Price: US$90. Wine: US$50. Railhead Smokehouse The debate on what’s better – pork ribs or beef brisket – is a lost cause at the city’s most popular barbecue joint, where power brokers know to order a plate combining both. These hickory-smoked eats, as well as the smoked turkey breast and chicken quarters, go beautifully with ice-crusted mugs of beer and servings of homemade potato salad and beans. Guests should not count on planning a quick trip to this rustic West Side favourite, as it is packed to the rafters, and parking spaces are often a block away, day or night. 2900 Montgomery Avenue, Fort Worth Tel: (817) 738 9808. Fax (817) 732 4059. Website: www.railheadsmokehouse.com E-mail: railhead@flash.net Price: US$20. Beer: US$3. Trendy Angeluna Global cuisine commands the stage at this prime location opposite the renowned Bass Performance Hall. A skillful balancing of Asian touches such as lemon grass, raw tuna and lobster pot stickers against Caribbean influences that include jerk chicken and Southwestern ideas such as jalapeño-fired pasta sauces make this sprawl of contemporary, art-filled dining spaces a big hit among out-of-towners and well-heeled locals alike. A martini menu guarantees a big bar crowd too. 215 East Fourth Street, Fort Worth Tel: (817) 334 0080. Website: www.angelunabasshall.com Price: US$45. Wine: US$40. Café Madrid Dallas’ first authentic Spanish restaurant and tapas bar, this casually cool hangout has evolved with sophistication over the years. The lengthy list of tapas ranges from the traditional potato omelette tortilla with a dollop of garlic-parsley aioli or roasted duck breast with sliced, sherry-laced carrots to empanadas filled with shredded tuna steak and green olive. 4501 Travis Street Tel: (214) 528 1731. Price: US$25. Wine: US$20. Ciudad Inspired by old Mexico’s cuisine riches, the polished menu fashioned by chef-partner Joanne Bondy delivers gorgeous creations such as a ceviche of octopus, conch, giant shrimp, red bell pepper, coriander with a hint of orange and lime, as well as thick lamb chops crusted in cumin and served with a tomato-fennel salsa. Lovely rooms adorned with murals and Saltillo tile create a lush hacienda setting. 3888 Oak Lawn Avenue Tel: (214) 219 3141. Price: US$50. Wine: US$35. Joe T Garcia’s Mexican Restaurant Hands-down the busiest, most famous place for Tex-Mex dishes, Joe T’s, on the historic North Side, has grown in 70 years from a one-room café to a city-block sprawl of Saltillo-tiled dining rooms and landscaped, poolside patios. Families and dates stand in long lines to sip deadly margaritas and choose between the restaurant’s two dinner offerings – platters of chicken or beef fajitas or combo dinners pairing cheese enchiladas with tacos, rice, refried beans, guacamole and cheese nachos. Lunch menu offers a few more choices. 2201 North Commerce, Fort Worth Tel: (817) 626 4356. E-mail: info@joe-ts.com Website: www.joets.com Price: US$20. Margarita: US$5. Liberty Chic and cheeky, this Asian-fusion noodle house is fabulous because the expert here is Annie Wong, whose works include chantaboun noodles combined with shrimp, scallops, crab claws, mussels, calamari, red curry and coconut milk, as well as spicy udon noodles with sweet Chinese sausage stir-fried with garlic and fresh veggies. Decor pops with fun, while the crowd exudes easy stylishness. 5631 Alta Avenue Tel: (214) 887 8795. Fax: (214) 887 8765. E-mail: Cindypipin@aol.com Website: www.libertynoodles.com Price: US$30. Wine: US$35. Budget Bubba’s This small diner, done out in Art Deco style in the fashionable Park Cities’ Snyder Plaza, is ground zero for lovers of pure Southern comfort food. Devotees believe there is no better-fried chicken on Earth, and the homemade rolls and biscuits are dream-worthy. Fried catfish is good too, as is the country-style breakfast. 6617 Hillcrest Avenue Tel: (214) 373 6527. Fax: (214) 373 4292. Price: US$9. Unlicensed. Gonzalez Homestyle Mexican fare at this family business ranges from crispy, puffed taco filled with well-peppered ground beef to shredded chicken enchilada dressed in a snappy tomatillo sauce, earthy chicken mole and lusty breakfast dishes with homemade flour tortillas. A friendly staff moves quickly in the cosy, colourful café, tucked into old downtown Oak Cliff, just a block from the Texas Theater, where Lee Harvey Oswald was arrested for the assassination of President J F Kennedy in 1963. 367 West Jefferson Street Tel: (214) 946 5333. Price: US$10. Margarita: US$5. Kincaid’s Hamburgers A Cowtown institution for 70 years, this vintage corner grocery on the venerable West Side has been publicised around the world for its astounding burgers. The half-pounders are hand-formed from freshly ground beef and served sizzling and drippy inside toasted buns. The pimento cheese-stuffed jalapeños and crinkle-cut fries are delicious too, either eaten the traditional way, standing up with elbows propped against the wooden grocery shelves, or seated at tables. 4901 Camp Bowie Boulevard, Fort Worth Tel: (817) 732 2881. Fax: (817) 731 3278. Website: www.fwculture.com/kincaids.htm Price: US$8. Unlicensed. Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse A family business dating from 1910, this hometown favourite has won a James Beard Award for regional classic food. The tiny, no-frills location opened in the 1950s, and serves deeply smoked turkey, ham, pork ribs, sausage, pulled pork, sliced brisket, ranch beans, potato salad and very cold beer. Sonny Bryan's is an old smoke shack, with little in the way of decor other than a few beer signs, which add to the overall charm of the place. 2202 Inwood Road Tel: (214) 357 7120. Fax: (214) 352 2307. Website: www.sonnybryansbbq.com Price: US$10. Beer: US$2.50. Z Café A sensationally cooling, blue and white room conjures up images of billowing sails against the Aegean Sea at this petite eatery on the edge of the Knox-Henderson neighborhood. Owner Nicholas Zotos’ family recipes for moussaka and baklava are superb, as is the more Texan Z burger, piled with feta, grilled onion and fresh jalapeño slices, all of which go nicely with dry Greek wine. Pecan pancakes shine at breakfast too. 1924 North Henderson Avenue Tel: (214) 821 0991. Price: US$15. Wine: US$17. Personal Recommendations Dream Café Health-conscious diners love the giant, whole-wheat tortillas packed with scrambled egg whites, smoked bacon and jack cheese at breakfast, as well as the salad of soba noodles, grilled shrimp and spicy Thai peanut dressing at lunch and dinner. Pasta, vegetarian fare and smoothies have also drawn a devoted following at this serene assemblage of cosy dining spaces and patio seating. 2800 Routh Street Tel: (214) 954 0486. Fax: (214) 954 0807. E-mail: mail@thedreamcafe.com Website: www.thedreamcafe.com Price: US$25. Wine: US$20. Gloria’s Festive in an understated manner, this longtime Oak Cliff favourite is in fact a pair of colourful rooms where happy diners feast on sensational Salvadoran and Mexican delights. The tamal is satiny and filled with chicken and potato before steaming inside a banana leaf, and the lush carne asada is tenderised, grilled beef steak with divine black beans. The homemade flour tortillas are unforgettable. 600 West Davis Street Tel: (214) 948 3672. Fax: (214) 946 0819. E-mail: info@gloriasrestaurants.com Website: www.gloriasrestaurants.com Price: US$18. Beer: US$3. Green Room A departure from the loud bars and bohemian cafes that fill the trendy Deep Ellum quarter, this exceptional haven for hip-haute cuisine offers sautéed Vietnamese frogs’ legs in a coriander butter with punchy, crispy, peanut coleslaw, as well as horseradish-crusted sea bass with bok choy in a balsamic sauce. Upscale but relaxed, the Green Room is wildly popular with a smart crowd who love the impressive wine list. 2715 Elm Street Tel: (214) 748 7666. Fax: (214) 748 7704. Website: www.thegreenroom.com Price: US$40. Wine: US$35. Il Sole Striking a lovely balance of sleek and casual, this Tuscan-inspired retreat indulges sophisticated palates with pan-roasted quail with chantrelles, sautéed spinach or rosemary in a Barolo glaze. It also boasts a magnificent wine list, which consistently wins awards from Wine Spectator. Half-glasses of wine allow ample tasting, and a happy bar crowd invites spirited mingling. 4514 Travis Street Tel: (214) 559 3888. Price: US$50. Wine: US$45. La Duni Latin Cafe It is impossible to ignore the front table laden with lavish sweets. A hefty wedge of Venezuelan chocolate truffle cake is highly recommended, perhaps after savoring the grilled Argentinian-style picanha steak with chimichurri mojo or the Brazilian-style roasted chicken bathed in champagne and juice from green oranges. The divine mint-spiked mojito cocktail is the best in town, while the warm setting and leisurely pace are soothing. 4620 McKinney Avenue Tel: (214) 520 7300. Fax: (214) 520 7390. E-mail: Manager@LaDuni.com Website: www.laduni.com Price: US$30. Wine: US$30. Sport Dallas prides itself on being a big name in professional sport, although this reputation is solely carried by the Dallas Cowboys Pro Football team (tel: (972) 556 9900; website: www.dallascowboys.com), who play at the Texas Stadium, One Cowboy Park (tel: (972) 579 5000), in the western suburb of Irving. The season is from August to January. The Dallas Stars (website: www.dallasstars.com) professional ice hockey team are a good side, despite Dallas being anything but a winter city. They play at the Reunion Arena, 777 Sports Street (tel: (214) 467 8277), which is also home to the Dallas Mavericks professional basketball team (tel: (214) 748 1810; website: www.nba.com/mavericks). The pro baseball team is the Texas Rangers (tel: (817) 273 5100; website: www.texasrangers.com), whose season is from April to October. Their Ballpark in Arlington complex (tel: (817) 273 5100) also has a museum and acres of parkland. The still-developing sport of soccer is represented by the Dallas Burn (website: www.dallasburn.com) major league soccer team, who play at the Cotton Bowl (tel: (214) 979 0303). The other soccer team is the Dallas Sidekicks (website: www.dallassidekicks.com), who are based at the Reunion Arena. Horses are very much part of the Texas psyche. Suburban Mesquite is home to the Championship Rodeo (tel: (972) 285 8777), which takes place from April to October, while thoroughbred horseracing is held at Lone Star Park (tel: (972) 263 7223). The Dallas City Parks & Recreation Department (tel: (214) 670 4100) provides information on the city’s 550 recreational facilities and its 406 parks. To obtain tickets to sporting events, visitors should contact the individual venues, by telephone or website. Golf: Alliance Golf Tours (tel: (972) 926 9700) offers all-inclusive golf packages. A selection of individual courses within Dallas includes Cedar Crest Park, 1800 Southerland Drive (tel: (214) 670 7615), Stevens Park, 1005 North Montclair Avenue (tel: (214) 670 7506), Tenison Park, 3501 Samuell Boulevard (tel: (214) 670 1402), and Keeton Park Course, 2323 Jim Miller Road (tel: (214) 670 8784; website: www.keetonpark.com). Green fees start from US$14 on weekdays and US$17 on weekends. Metropolitan clubs do not have any membership requirements, however, individual clubs will have different stipulations and visitors should contact them individually. Recreation centres: Dallas has 43 recreation centres, each with a variety of traditional recreational activities, including athletics, sports, summer playground camps and cultural events. In central Dallas, there is Grauwyler, 7780 Harry Hines Boulevard (tel: (214) 670 6302), Pike, 2807 Harry Hines Boulevard (tel: (214) 670 1491), and Reverchon, 3505 Maple Avenue (tel: (214) 670 7721). Swimming: There are many community pools, including Bonnie View, 2124 Huntington Drive (tel: (214) 670 1960), Grauwyler, 2157 Anson Road (tel: (214) 670 6444), Martin Weiss, 3440 Clarendon Street (tel: (214) 670 1989), and Walnut Hill, 4141 Walnut Hill (tel: (214) 670 6433). Tennis: Samuell-Grand Park, 6200 East Grand Avenue (tel: (214) 670 1374), has 20 enclosed courts with evening security and a pro shop. Shopping For many people, ‘Dallas’ means ‘shopping’. The city’s motto, after all, is ‘if it can’t be found in Dallas, it can’t be found anywhere’. This is where Nieman Marcus, 1618 Main Street, began its fashion business in 1907, as an ‘exclusive woman’s ready-to-wear store’. Today, all manner of big names have gravitated around it, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Rodier Paris, Tiffany & Co and Lord & Taylor. The huge department store chain, JC Penney, also originated in Dallas. Not content with numerous huge malls and shopping centres containing all kinds of individual and chain shops, there is now the Dallas Market Center, just to the northwest of the Downtown area, either side of the Stemmons Freeway (I-35). On completion, it was the biggest wholesale trade complex in the world, with its eight different buildings turning over US$7.5 billion in annual retail sales. Other malls to spend some ‘retail-therapy’ time in are Galleria, modelled on Milan’s Vittorio Emanuelle and even housing an ice rink, at the north side crossroads of the Dallas North Tollway and the beltway I-635, and Highland Park Village, with its Spanish-inspired design. Others to look out for near the Downtown area are Crescent, Inwood Village and Snyder Plaza. At DFW airport, there is the enormous Grapevine Mills. The malls are usually open daily, around 1000-2100, although shorter Sunday hours (1200-1800) can apply. These huge malls are, of course, packed full of restaurants, fast food outlets, entertainments and coffee shops. On a more human-scale approach to shopping, there are antiques and crafts shops scattered throughout the Downtown, as well as specifically along McKinney Avenue and the West End Market Place, which are also good places for general browsing. There is a large Farmer’s Market, just west of Downtown, at South Harwood Street and Marilla Street, which is open daily 0700-1800. Given Texas’ ‘Wild West’ image, anything to do with cowboys, rodeos and cattle ranching is a typical local gift. Otherwise, the latter day image of the town is big business, especially oil. The two come together in the abiding icon of South Forks Ranch and its infamous resident, JR. Sales tax is 8.24% and Texas Tax Back, 326 North Park Center (tel: (214) 361 5877; fax: (214) 361 7422), provides information on how tourists can claim tax back. Culture Dallas lays claim to the biggest urban Arts District (tel: (214) 953 1977; website: www.artsdistrict.org) in the USA. Founded in 1983 and located on the north side of the town, the distrcit includes the Dallas Museum of Art (see Key Attractions), the Morton H Meyerson Symphony Center – the major performing arts venue in Dallas – at 2301 Flora Street (tel: (214) 670 3600), and the Arts District Theater, 2401 Flora Street (tel: (214) 922 0427). To obtain tickets to cultural events, visitors should contact the individual venues, by telephone or website. Useful information points include the weekly Dallas Observer and a cultural website (www.dallasculture.com). Music: The Dallas Opera (tel: (214) 443 1000; website: www.dallasopera.org) plays at the Fair Park Music Hall, Fair Park, 909 First Avenue (tel: (214) 565 1116), all year. The Dallas Symphony Orchestra (tel: (214) 692 0203; website: www.dallassymphony.com) is based at the Morton H Meyerson Symphony Center, 2301 Flora Street (tel: (214) 670 3600), but also gives free performances in various parks throughout the summer. Also based at the Morton H Meyerson Symphony Center is the Dallas Winds Symphony (tel: (214) 565 9463; website: www.dws.org) and the men’s chorus, the Turtle Creek Chorale (tel: (214) 526 3214; website: www.turtlecreek.org). The range of classical music performances available is represented by the Dallas Bach Society, 2300 Auburn Avenue (tel: (214) 320 8700), the Dallas Chamber Orchestra (tel: (214) 321 1411) and the Dallas Classic Guitar Society (tel: (214) 528 3733). Theatre: The Dallas Theater Center (tel: (214) 526 8210 or 8857 or 522 8499, box office; website: www.dallastheatercenter.org) is based at the Kalita Humphreys Theater, 3636 Turtle Creek Boulevard – designed by Frank Lloyd Wright – but also performs at the Arts District Theater, 2401 Flora Street (tel: (214) 922 0427). Theater Three, 2800 Routh Street (tel: (214) 871 3300), and the Majestic Theater, 1925 Elm Street (tel: (214) 880 0137), a restored 1920s movie palace and vaudeville hall, are other options. The type of theatre presented ranges from mainstream shows to fringe theatre. Dance: The Fort Worth-Dallas Ballet (website: www.fwdballet.com) performs, along with the opera, at Fair Park Music Hall (see Music above) and the Majestic Theater (see Theatre above). The Dallas Black Dance Theatre, 2627 Flora Street (tel: (214) 871 2376; website: www.dbdt.com), performs highly acclaimed modern dance. For a Hispanic flavour, there is the Anita N Martinez Ballet Folklorico, 4422 Live Oak Street (tel: (214) 828 0181). Film: Apart from the usual range of mainstream cinemas, there are also two specialist venues – The Granada Theater, 3524 Geenville Avenue (tel: (214) 823 9610), a 1940s ‘movie theater’ with a dinner menu and drinks, and the IMAX Theater, 11819 Webb Chapel Road (tel: (972) 888 2629). The Inwood Theater, 5458 West Lovers Lane, Inwood (te: (214) 352 6040; website: www.landmarktheatres.com), shows arthouse movies. Movies that have been filmed in Dallas over the years include Bonnie and Clyde (1967), RoboCop (1987), JFK (1991), The Bridges of Madison County (1995), The Apostle (1997) and Batman and Robin (1997). Cultural events: Dallas has an extraordinary number of festivals and events throughout the year (see Special Events for more details). Many organisations, such as the Dallas Arboretum & Botanical Garden (tel: (214) 327 4901) or Dallas Zoo (tel: (214) 670 5656), feature events and festivals as a matter of course, as part of their annual programme. For visitors who wish to take part in the fun, there is a Special Events Hotline (tel: (214) 571 1301), while Dallas Convention and Visitors Bureau has an exhaustive Calendar of Events (website: www.dallascvb.com). Starting with the film world, January brings the Annual KidFilm Festival, with new and classic children’s films from around the world, while the Annual Dallas Video Festival presents innovative work of video pioneers in March. April welcomes The Annual USA Film Festival AMC, bringing film enthusiasts and professional filmmakers from around the world together, for screenings and discussions of the best new American films. May brings a wide variety of events, from the National Tap Dance Day Celebration to the African-American Festival Concert. The Shakespeare Festival of Dallas in June/July is highly regarded, while the season of Dallas Summer Musicals in June comes straight from Broadway. Dance comes to the fore in September, with the annual Dallas Morning News Dance Festival. October sees the attention turn to music, with the annual Dallas Jazz Festival and the North Texas Music Festival. In November, before the Christmas paraphernalia gets into full swing, there is the annual Deep Ellum Film Festival. Literary Notes It is not easy to find specific references to Dallas in literature. Most writers speak more generally of Texas. One early example is Amelia E Barr’s Remember the Alamo (1888), in which a mixed Anglo-Mexican family in San Antonio overcomes its own cultural differences while tensions mount between revolutionary Texans and the Mexican government. The short story, Last of the Troubadours, by O Henry – first published in the July 1908 issue of Everybody's Magazine – deals with a strolling minstrel in turn-of-the-century South Texas and divides the world into three types of people – the barons, the troubadours and the workers. Neither of these accounts is easy to come by, except in special library collections. Again taking the wider Texan theme but this time from a child’s perspective, is Janice Jordan Shefelman’s A Paradise Called Texas (1983), about searching for a better life when Mina and her parents leave Germany in 1845 and travel to Texas. The story is based upon the author’s own family history. Simone de Beauvoir travelled in Texas in 1947 and wrote her whole US diary as America Day by Day (1954). Her route through the state took her from San Antonio to Houston. She observed: "Texans are proud to be Texans. They have the reputation of being the biggest braggarts in America, and they even brag about this. In their vast territory they’ve gathered all the world capitals: Paris, London, Madrid, Toledo, St Petersburg, Moscow … and some can even be found more than once." Dallas has also been celebrated in song. The 1956 Big D, by Frank Loesser (1910-1969), composer of Baby, It’s Cold Outside, has this to say: You’re from Big D My, oh yes, I mean Big D, little a, double l, a-s And that spells Dallas, my darlin’, darlin’ Dallas Don’t it give you pleasure to confess That you’re from Big D My, oh yes! Nightlife The bars, restaurants and clubs in Dallas run the gamut of styles – be that musically, gastronomically or sartorially – which is hardly surprising from the city where the margarita and true spicy Tex-Mex food were invented. If you want to find the cowboy boots, big hats, country ballads, barbecues and massive sides of steak, then, of course, they are here. Being the Deep South, there is also plenty of jazz, blues, rock’n’roll, heavy metal and piano bars, as well as French cuisine, Italian, vegetarian, huge sandwiches, burgers and ribs. With over 5000 restaurants, Dallas claims to have four times as many eateries per person as New York. The main areas of Downtown to explore are as follows: the West End, particularly Dallas Alley, 2019 North Lamar Street, which houses a variety of clubs and restaurants; Deep Ellum, where the legendary Blind Lemon Jefferson was a regular performer; McKinney Avenue and Greenville Avenue, both on the north side. A club labelled as ‘private’ may well simply be in a ‘dry’ part of town and so nominal membership is required to allow them a ‘liquor’ licence. Most bars are open until 0200, with the minimum drinking age being 21 years. The average price of a drink is US$2 in bars or US$4 in clubs. The weekly Dallas Observer and a new website (www.bestbarsintown.com) provide listings information on nightlife in Dallas. Bars: Greenville Avenue’s contrast in bar styles is shown by the sophisticated cocktail atmosphere of Mick’s (located at 2825) and ironically, since Mick is usually a name associated with Ireland, the darts-throwing, raucous, Irish-owned ambience at The Dubliner (located at 2818). Pubs are often spots that offer good eating as much as drinking. The Old Monk, 2847 North Henderson Avenue, is a few minutes from the Downtown and offers simple, wholesome dishes, such as steamed mussels and fish and chips. As it is everywhere else in the USA, small breweries with a pub on the premises, known as brew-pubs, have caught on. Two Rows Restaurant and Brewery, 5500 Greenville Avenue, offers wood-fired pizzas to complement its barley micro brews. Main Street Brewing Co, 2656 Main Street, will show you how they do it. Casinos: There are no casinos in Dallas. Clubs: As well as nightclubs, Dallas has quite a tradition of ‘Gentlemen’s Clubs’, which can range from the cabaret style of Cabaret Royale, 10723 Composite Avenue, to the new Baby O’International, 4908 Greenville Avenue, with happy hour buffets and cigar parties. It would be easy to miss from its name but the Have a Nice Day Café, 2020 North Lamar Street, is actually a combination of restaurant and 1970s disco. The Red Jacket, 3606 Greenville Avenue, covers all kinds of dance music from swing and lounge up to 80s post-disco styles. If you can’t resist the foot stomping of country rhythms, head for Country 2000, 10580 North Stemmons Freeway. Live music: Many ordinary bars have live music and the Deep Ellum is a good area to head for. Don’t be fooled by the names of some venues, the Gypsy Tea Room, 2548 Elm Street, does have a tea room but it also has a concert room for live country and rock music bands of both national and local reputation. Trees, 2709 Elm Street, is one of the oldest live music venues with a rock‘n’roll penchant in a warehouse-style interior. Two good places for the blues are Blue Cat Blues, 2617 Commerce Street, and The Bone, 1701 North Market Street. The most frequently cited ‘best blues’ are at Muddy Waters, 1518 Greenville Avenue. City Statistics Location: State of Texas, central southern USA. Country dialling code: 1. Population: 1,052,400 (city); 3,048,000 (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: 46% white, 30% black, 21% Hispanic, 2.4% Asian, 0.5% Native American, 0.1% other. Religion: Predominantly Christian. Time zone: GMT - 6 (GMT - 5 from 4 April to 30 October). Electricity: 110 volts AC, 50Hz; flat two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: 6.5ºC (43.5ºF). Average July temp: 29.5ºC (85.5ºF). Annual rainfall: 856mm (33 inches). Special Events Golden Gloves Tournament (tel: (214) 670 8400), amateur boxing tournament, Feb, Fair Park Dallas Home and Garden Show (tel: (800) 654 1480, toll free in the USA and Canada), Mar, Dallas Market Hall Dallas Symphony Run (tel: (214) 821 0909), fun run, Mar, begins and ends at the Morton H Meyerson Symphony Center Irish Fest (tel: (214) 821 4174), largest music festival in Texas with more than 47 different bands, Mar, Fair Park Annual Dallas Video Festival (website: www.videofest.org), presenting innovative video work, Mar, Dallas Theater Center Dallas New Car Show (tel: (214) 939 2700), Mar, Dallas Convention Center St Patrick’s Day Parade (tel: (214) 368 6722), 17 Mar, Greenville Avenue Downtown Dallas Annual Parade (tel: (972) 991 6705), Irish Parade, 17 Mar, starts Main Street Deep Ellum Art Festival (tel: (214) 748 4332), Apr, Deep Ellum Dance for the Planet (tel: (972) 713 2795), free dance festival, Apr, Annette Strauss Artist Square Annual USA Film Festival AMC (tel: (214) 821 6300), Apr, Glen Lakes Theater Cajun Fest of music and food, May, various venues National Tap Dance Day Celebration (tel: (214) 828 4788), celebrity tap dancers, signed auction items, classes, workshops, May, Dallas Arts District African-American Festival Concert (tel: (214) 692 0203), featuring African-American composers and musicians, May, Morton H Meyerson Symphony Center ArtFest (tel: (214) 361 2011), celebration of local arts, May, Fair Park Annual Cinco de Mayo Celebration (tel: (214) 670 8400), Dallas celebrates its rich Mexican heritage, 5 May, Fair Park Hispanic Festival Concert (tel: (214) 692 0203), featuring Latin American composers and musicians, Jun, Morton H Meyerson Symphony Center Annual Dallas Festival of Arts & Jazz, Jun, various venues Dallas Summer Musicals (tel: (214) 691 7200), Jun, Fair Park Music Hall African-American Heritage Festival (tel: (214) 421 5141), celebration of the culture and heritage of African-Americans, Jun, Old City Park Shakespeare Festival of Dallas (tel: (214) 559 2778), Jun, Samuell-Grand Park Hoop It Up (tel: (972) 392 5700), the largest three-on-three basketball tournament in the nation, Jun, West End Historic District Dallas Summer Boat Show (tel: (972) 714 0177), Jul, Dallas Market Hall Taste of Dallas (tel: (214) 741 7185), largest outdoor food festival in Dallas, Jul, West End Historic District Dallas Morning News Dance Festival (tel: (214) 953 1977), free festival of emerging and professional dance companies, Sep, Annette Strauss Artist Square Annual National Indian Pow Wow (tel: (972) 647 2331), tribes from around the nation celebrate a weekend of dance, arts and crafts and tribal council meetings, Sep, Traders Village LTD West End Cattle Drive (tel: (214) 741 7185), free outdoor festival featuring an urban cattle drive with cowboys, music and food, Sep, West End Historic District Dallas Fall Home & Garden Show (tel: (800) 654 1480), Sep, Dallas Market Hall Annual Addison Oktoberfest (tel: (800) 133 4766), re-creation of the Munich celebration, Sep, Addison Conference & Theatre Centre GrapeFest-Grapevine Festival (tel: (817) 410 3105, Texas’ largest wine festival, Sep, Grapevine Historic District Annual Greek Food Festival (tel: (972) 991 1166), Greek food tasting, dancing, tours of the church, Sep, Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church State Fair of Texas (tel: (214) 565 9931), Sep, Fair Park Dallas Jazz Festival (tel: (214) 520 7789), Oct, Annette Strauss Artist Square Grand Prix of Texas (tel: (817) 215 8500), Oct, Texas Motor Speedway North Texas Music Festival (tel: (214) 748 4332), four days of music, featuring bands from Texas, Louisiana, Oklahoma and beyond, Oct, Deep Ellum Annual American-Indian Art Festival & Market (tel: (214) 891 9640), visual and performing arts of American Indian artists, Oct, Annette Strauss Artist Square Annual Deep Ellum Film Festival (tel: (214) 748 4332), Nov, Deep Ellum Turkey Trot (tel: (214) 954-0500), popular Thanksgiving Morning run, Nov, through the streets of Downtown Dallas Holiday Tree-Lighting Festival (tel: (214) 741 7185), day-long family entertainment, culminating in turning on the lights of the giant Holiday Tree, Nov, West End Market Place Galleria Holiday Kickoff (tel: (972) 702 7100), turning on the lights of the tallest indoor Christmas tree in the country, plus indoor fireworks, Nov, Galleria Candlelight Tour (tel: (214) 421 5141), village decorated in turn-of-the-century style, Dec, Old City Park White Rock Marathon (tel: (214) 467 3369), Dec, from Downtown Dallas to the White Rock Lake area Jingle Bell Run (tel: (214) 528 1290), fun run, also includes a costume contest, Santa Land for children and a post race party, Dec, Downtown Dallas Cotton Bowl Classic New Year's Eve Parade (tel: (214) 741 7185), Dec, Arts District to the West End Community Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$0.35 33cl bottle of beer: US$1 Financial Times newspaper: US$1.50 36-exposure colour film: US$6.50 City-centre bus ticket: US$1 Adult American Football ticket: US$36 Three-course meal with wine/beer: US$20 1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.63; C$1.51; A$1.67; €0.93 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.