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USACity Overview Surveying the dynamic skyline of Dubai today, it is tempting to think of this emirate as a thoroughly modern creation. But Dubai’s history drifts back to at least the third century BC, when nomadic tribes eked out a living in the arid deserts. Dubai grew to prominence as an important hub on the ancient trading route between Mesopotamia and the Indus Valley and, by the 19th century, a fishing village had taken root on the Shindagha peninsula, at the mouth of Dubai Creek. The village was inhabited by the Bani Yas tribe, who were led by the Maktoum family, the dynasty that still presides over Dubai today. As Europe embarked on the mass destruction of World War I, Dubai still had no running water, no real roads and the main mode of transport was the camel. Dubai’s remarkable success story really began in the 1960s. In the process of shaking off the shackles of British colonial rule, oil was struck in 1966. The scene was set for a rapid rise to incredible wealth, as Dubai drew in billions of Dollars from the sale of oil – money that was wisely invested in building up infrastructure and conjuring up a city to match the extent of the newly found riches. Contrary to popular misconceptions about Dubai, however, oil only accounts for 10% of the economy today, as the emirate has expanded into trade, service industries, finance, light industry and tourism. Another misconception is the idea that alcohol is completely banned. The reality is that, in the city’s numerous hotels, bars and restaurants, alcohol flows freely. What cannot be exaggerated is the visible, astronomical wealth ostentatiously on display throughout Dubai, with gleaming skyscrapers vying for attention along Dubai Creek and even more elaborate, government sponsored construction projects underway. The most recent is the Palm Islands, a massive project that will bring 120km (75 miles) of new beachfront, through the creation of the world’s two largest manmade islands, as well as hotels, villas, shopping malls, cinemas and Dubai’s first marine park. Despite the fact that Dubai is one of the hottest and most arid places on the planet, there are four first-rate golf courses and more on the way, with another outlandish plan to build a ski slope with real snow. Dubai does not do things by half measures, with some of the world’s tallest and most costly buildings and top designers brought in to supervise the ever more elaborate projects. The result is that Dubai is now a real playground for the rich and famous. With almost 400 hotels, first-class shopping and plenty of space for future development, there is also enough room for less affluent visitors. Part of the attraction is the weather – Dubai enjoys an idyllic climate for much of the year, with constant sunshine and very little rainfall, although, in summer, the heat is extreme, making trips away from air-conditioned vehicles and buildings unbearable. Getting There By Air Dubai International Airport (DBX) Tel: (04) 224 5555. Fax: (04) 224 4074. Website: www.dubaiairport.com Dubai International Airport, located five kilometres (three miles) southeast of the city centre, is the busiest airport in the Middle East, handling flights for over 80 airlines, flying to more than 130 destinations worldwide. Despite the events of 11 September 2001, the airport registered a 10% year-on-year growth in passenger numbers, to 13.5 million in 2001. A recent expansion programme has left the airport with two state-of-the-art terminals and first class duty-free shopping facilities. A third terminal is planned for completion by 2006. Major airlines: Emirates Airlines (tel: (04) 214 4444 or 800 4444; website: www.emirates.com) is the national airline. Gulf Air (tel: (04) 271 3222; website: www.gulfairco.com) is the regional airline. Other major airlines include: Air France, Air Ukraine, Alitalia, Cathay Pacific, Cyprus Airways, Czech Airlines, Ghana Airways, Gulf Air, Kenya Airways, Kuwait Airways, Lithuanian Airlines, Lufthansa, Malaysia Airlines, Northwest Airlines, Olympic Airways, Oman Air, Qatar Airways, Turkish Airways, United Airlines and Yemen Airways. British Airways have recently introduced flat beds in both First Class and Club World, on the route from London. Approximate flight times to Dubai: From London is 7 hours 45 minutes; from New York is 14 hours 50 minutes; from Los Angeles is 19 hours 55 minutes; from Toronto is 14 hours 10 minutes and from Sydney is 16 hours 15 minutes. Airport facilities: These include ATM, bureau de change, banking, post office, medical centre, pharmacy, cafés, restaurants, gym, health spa, executive lounges, left-luggage, duty-free shopping, tourist information bureau, smoking areas, children’s playrooms and car hire from Avis, Budget, Fast Rent a Car and Hertz. Business facilities: There are two airport business centres. One is located in the departure lounge, with ISDN terminals, fax machines and round-the-clock secretarial services. The other is in the International Hotel (tel: (04) 216 4278; fax: (04) 224 5955), with facilities that include ISDN connections, fax machines and secretarial services during business hours. Arrival/departure tax: None. Transport to the city: Prepaid airport taxis must be booked in the arrival hall. These charge a fixed Dh30 for destinations in the city centre (journey time – 10 minutes). Dubai Municipality (tel: (04) 285 9401 or 221 5555; website: www.dm.gov.ae) airport buses leave for the city every ten minutes 0600-2200 (journey time – 20 minutes) and cost Dh1. Getting There By Water Jebel Ali Port is located 30km (18.5 miles) to the south of the city centre. It is the world’s largest man-made port – over 120 shipping lines use the port – but passenger services are limited and are not designed to cater for tourists. A port tax of Dh10 is levied on departures from the UAE. Dubai Port Authority (tel: (04) 881 5000; website: www.dpa.co.ae) provides further information. The new government-owned Dubai Cruise Terminal (website: http://dubaitourism.co.ae/www/discover/cruiseterminal.asp), which is capable of dealing with two liners at a time, opened at Port Rashid in March 2001, with over 50 visiting cruise liners expected in 2002. Facilities at the cruise terminal will include reception check-in, information centre, a VIP lounge, a relaxation zone and café, rest rooms, a big screen entertainment centre, duty free, exhibits and an Arabian palm garden. Ferry services: Ferry services operate to ports in Iran, although these are not recommended to tourists. Transport to the city: The fare to Jebel Ali in a metered taxi will cost Dh60-70 (journey time – 20-30 minutes). The fare in a shared taxi to Al-Ghubaiba bus station costs Dh7. Dubai Cruise Terminal has its own taxi stand with taxis into Deira or Bur Dubai costing around Dh20-30. Getting There By Road The United Arab Emirates boasts an impressive network of first-class roads that connect major towns and villages, including a multi-lane highway between Dubai and Abu Dhabi. Highways and main roads in Dubai and the United Arab Emirates are designated by an Emirate Route Number. Driving in the UAE is on the right-hand side. Speed limits are clearly displayed on road signs and are usually 60-80kph (37-50mph) around town and 100-120kph (62-74mph) elsewhere. Seatbelts are compulsory and it is illegal to use handheld mobile phones while driving. Certain minor traffic offences incur on-the-spot fines. Drinking and driving is illegal and the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is zero. The police must be called to any road traffic accident – no matter how minor – and those involved in the accident must remain at the scene with their vehicles. A valid International Driving Permit, a valid national licence and a passport are required to drive in Dubai. Visitors from many European, North American and Pan-Asian countries can obtain a temporary local driving licence if they do not have an international licence – a valid national licence, passport and two passport-sized photographs are required for applicants to obtain this. Drivers must be over 18 years old. Third party insurance is compulsory. Arabian Automobile Association (tel: (04) 266 9989; website: www.aaa-uae.com) provides further information. Emergency breakdown service: Arabian Automobile Association (800) 4900 (toll free) Routes to the city: The main Emirate Route Numbers into Dubai are 77 from Jebel Ali, 88 from Sharjah, 44 from Wajajah, 66 from Al-Ain and 11 from Abu Dhabi. Approximate driving times to Dubai: From Al-Ain – 1 hour 15 minutes; Abu Dhabi – 1 hour 30 minutes; Muscat – 4 hours. Coach services: Two buses leave daily for Muscat in Oman, from the car park at the Airline Centre, Al-Maktoum Road, Deira (tel: (04) 203 3923 or 3799). Tickets (Dh90 for a return) can be bought from the driver or the Airline Centre. The Gold Souk Bus Station, off Al-Khor Street, and Al-Ghubaiba Bus Station, Al-Ghubaiba Road, are the main departure points for local and intercity services, which operate 0600-2300. Dubai Municipality (tel: (04) 285 9401 or 221 5555; website: www.dm.gov.ae) provides further information. Dubai Transport Corporation (tel: (04) 227 3840, for services to the northern Emirates, or 353 5311, for Abu Dhabi and Al-Ain; website: www.dubaitransport.gov.ae) runs air-conditioned buses to Hatta, Al-Khwaneej and Al-Awir. Dubai Transport Corporation also operates minibus services to the main cities of the UAE, however, it is only possible for travellers to catch these once they are out of Dubai. Getting There By Rail There are no railways in the United Arab Emirates, although there are plans for a public railway system. The first line is slated for completion by 2006. Getting Around Public Transport The car is the most popular method of transport in Dubai. In addition, the major tourist hotels provide shuttle bus services for guests. However, Dubai Municipality (tel: (04) 285 9401 or 221 5555; website: www.dm.gov.ae) operates a reasonable public bus service, 0600-2300. Adult fares are Dh1-3.50 depending on destination and these are paid to the driver upon boarding, so it is useful for travellers to have the exact change ready. Three types of bus passes are available. Smart Cards give Dh22 worth of transport for Dh20, while monthly passes – called taufee – are available at a cost of Dh75, for journeys on one side of the creek, or Dh120, for unlimited travel within the whole city. Passes, timetables and bus maps are available from the bus stations in Deira and Bur Dubai. Routes and bus numbers are posted in both Arabic and English. Basic wooden boats, locally referred to as abras, cross the creek from Bur Dubai to the Textile Souk area in Deira, 0600-2400 (journey time – 5 minutes) and are excellent value at Dh0.50. Taxis Air-conditioned taxis can be hailed on the street or prebooked by telephone. Metered taxis, operated by the Dubai Transport Corporation (tel: (04) 234 1111), are distinguished by their cream colour and uniformed drivers. Occasionally, drivers do not have detailed knowledge about the city and may ask passengers for directions. For metered taxis, the pick-up fare is Dh3 (Dh3.50 between 2200 and 0600) and Dh4 for pre-booked metered taxis. The rate is then charged at Dh1.25 per kilometre. Fixed fares are applied to journeys outside the city boundaries. In non-metered taxis the fare is generally Dh5 for short journeys and Dh10-15 for longer journeys within the city. It is also possible to rent a taxi for 12 hours, for a fixed fee of Dh500. Tipping is not expected. Limousines These are offered by the main car hire companies (see the Car Hire section) and Dubai Transport Corporation (tel: (04) 208 0808). The fare from the airport into Deira or Bur Dubai is around Dh60, with daily hire from Dh1000. Driving in the City Dubai has an excellent and well-signposted road network and the majority of roads have two to four lanes. Unfortunately, driving standards do not match the quality of the roads. Many local drivers travel at speed and change lanes with wild abandon. In addition, drivers are prone to make sudden and dangerous manoeuvres. Accidents occur frequently and visitors are advised to drive defensively. Outside the city centre, signposts are rare, making a good road map essential, to avoid heading aimlessly out into the desert. Increasingly traffic congestion is also a problem, particularly in Deira and along Jumeirah Beach. Car parks are operated by Dubai Municipality (tel: (04) 285 9401 or 221 5555; website: www.dm.gov.ae) and cost Dh2 per hour. Two centrally located covered car parks are near the Spice Souk and Bani Yas Square in Deira. Car Hire A valid International Driving Permit and passport are required to hire a car in Dubai. Visitors from many European, North American and many Asian countries can obtain a temporary local driving licence if they do not have an international licence. A valid national licence, passport and two passport-sized photographs are required in order to do this. Fully comprehensive insurance is essential. In the event of an accident, the police must be informed and a written police report obtained, otherwise the hire company’s insurance may not cover any damage. Drivers must be at least 21 years old and have held a full licence for one year. The age limit is often raised to 25 years, for more expensive models. Payment must be made by credit card. Major providers include Avis (tel: (04) 295 9899; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (04) 282 3030; website: www.budgetrentacar.com), Europcar (tel: (04) 352 0033; website: www.europcar.com) and Fast Rent a Car (tel: (04) 224 5040). Hire of a standard saloon car costs from Dh170 per day and Dh900 per week. Collision damage waiver is usually additional at Dh20 per day. Bicycle Hire Considering the desert environment, Dubai is not a cyclist’s paradise and bicycle hire is not a roaring trade in the city. Nevertheless, some hotels hire out bicycles. Whether or not they will hire them to non-guests varies. Business Business Profile The events of 11 September 2001 and the aftermath placed a major strain on Dubai’s economy, although the worst appears to be over and key economic indicators – such as the level of cargo passing through the emirate – are back above pre-11 September levels. Barring another conflict in Iraq, Dubai’s economy now appears set to buck the global trend, with encouraging growth levels. The wealth that is ostentatiously on display in the emirate is indicative of one of the highest per capita incomes in the world. Unemployment is still at an official rate of zero. While Dubai’s wealth may have been built on oil, the emirate has spent the last decade or so diversifying into an ever-increasing number of industries and various economic sectors. The city’s main exports are crude oil, natural gas, re-exports, dried fish and dates. Oil itself plays a surprisingly small part in the emirate’s economic picture, with only 10% of the economy oil based – a percentage that looks set to fall still further. Other sectors that are decreasing in economic importance are traditional small-scale industries, such as fishing, boat building, handicrafts and pearling, which now only make up a fraction of economic activity. Today, the main emerging industries are international trade, manufacturing, finance and other service-based industries. Dubai has been very successful in bringing in both foreign investment and international companies in recent years, with initiatives – such as the setting up of the ‘offshore’ Jebel Ali Free Zone in 1985 – reaping major rewards. Increasingly, Dubai has also focused on tourism, with visitor numbers rising markedly over the last decade, particularly in terms of those arriving from Western Europe, with 3.5 million total tourist visitors in 2000 –over 300,000 from the UK alone. The main business district in Dubai is around the World Trade Centre, on Sheikh Zayed Road. The Emirates Towers, which opened in June 2000, as the tallest buildings in the Middle East, are fast becoming the new business hub of the city. The focus of some business looks set to head to the new Dubai Convention Centre, scheduled for completion in time for the IMF and World Bank Conference, in 2003. Other major planned infrastructure developments include a revamped Port Rashid container port, a massive marina in Jumeirah, rejuvenation of the coastal Jebel Ali area and a new bridge over Dubai Creek. Multinational companies and international organisations based in Dubai include Sony, Heinz, AT&T, Shell, IBM and General Motors. Etisalat is the only provider of Internet services within Dubai, exercising heavy control, with all sites accessed and monitored through the company’s proxy server. Most five-star hotels offer guests Internet access, which is also available at a growing number of Internet cafes, including the Internet Café, Dune Centre, Al-Satwa (tel: (04) 345 3390). The Dubai Chamber of Commerce (tel: (04) 228 0000; website: www.dcci.org) is often helpful for foreign businesspeople. Business Etiquette It is a major faux pas to break certain conventions when doing business in Dubai. Smart conservative clothing is expected, despite the often soaring heat. Meetings may start late, since this is not frowned upon in Dubai and it should not be commented on. The Arabic handshake involves touching the heart with the palm of the right hand after each shake, although visitors should note that when greeting Arab women they should not offer their hand unless the woman extends hers first. The terms ‘Sayed’ (Mr) or ‘Sayeda’ (Mrs), followed by the first name, should be used in greeting to ensure politeness. It is also very important for visitors never to sit in such a way that their feet are pointing directly at someone else. Causing someone else to lose face, whether a client or colleague, is considered extremely offensive and any criticism or corrections should be kept for private discussions afterwards. Meetings tend to start with plenty of preliminary chatting before moving onto the serious work, so it is essential for visitors not to rush in. Business meetings in Dubai are often seemingly casual affairs, in cafés or restaurants, although it is easy to be caught off guard, as the pace tends to quicken rapidly and deals are struck in a fraction of the time it can take in Western Europe. Friday is considered a day of prayer and rest, so meetings should not be scheduled for this day. Calls to Arab people should also be avoided on this day. Similarly, local people won’t answer the telephone during siestas, which are usually taken between 1400 and 1700. Business hours are Saturday to Wednesday 0800-1300 and 1600-1900. Businesses run by Western staff may open Sunday to Thursday 0800-1700. Business socialising in Dubai can be quite formal. Lunch meetings are more common than evening meetings and visitors should not that sometimes business meals will be served at venues that do not serve alcohol. Asking for it may cause embarrassment and even insult. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Sightseeing in Dubai is split mainly between the Deira and Bur Dubai flanks of Dubai Creek. Deira is the business and commercial heart of the city and is also home to the best shopping. Highlights include the myriad of souks, including the Spice Souk, Deira Old Souk and Dubai Covered Souk. Meanwhile, historic Bur Dubai has less of a bustling atmosphere and is home to a number of tourist attractions, including the Dubai Museum, Grand Mosque and Sheikh Saeed Al-Maktoum’s House. Dubai Creek itself is also something of an attraction, whether visitors choose to take the traditional dhow cruises along its length or just to stroll along its banks on the promenade on the Bur Dubai side. Breaking away, west from the mouth of Dubai Creek, is Jumeirah Beach, not really one beach as such but rather a sweeping strip of sand fringed by the bath temperature waters of the Arabian Gulf. Much of the beach these days is officially the private preserve of the ever increasing string of beach-side luxury hotels, although there is little to stop people wandering where they want to, once on the sand. Many of Dubai’s best hotels are located on or nearby Jumeirah Beach, as well as leisure facilities like Wild Wadi Water Park and the more traditional attraction of Jumeirah Mosque, which is regarded by both locals and tourists alike as the most charming mosque in Dubai. Away from the city itself, further adventures await in the deserts and mountains, with ‘wadi bashing’ and ‘dune bashing’ jeep safaris in the mountains and deserts of Dubai both becoming increasingly popular. Further excursions can be made into the neighbouring emirates and Oman. Tourist Information Department of Tourism and Commerce Marketing (DTCM) Welcome Bureau Beni Yas Square, Deira Tel: (04) 228 5000. Fax: (04) 228 0011. E-mail: info@dubaitourism.co.ae Website: www.dubaitourism.co.ae Opening hours: Daily 0900-2300. The DTCM has two other Welcome Bureaux located at the airport and 40km (25 miles) out of town, on the Sheik Zayed Road to Abu Dhabi. Passes There are no tourist passes currently available in Dubai. Key Attractions Bastakiya In the days before electricity and air conditioning, Dubai Creek used to be lined by a mass of wind towers that kept the local houses cool. The Bastakiya district is a step back in time, laden as it is with traditional courtyard houses, bedecked with these wind towers. The Bastakiya area is currently closed for major renovation, with improved visitor facilities planned. East of Dubai Souk on Al-Fahidi Street Transport: Bus 19 or abra to Bur Dubai. Sheikh Saeed Al-Maktoum’s House Sheikh Saeed Al-Maktoum’s House is one of the oldest houses in the city, as well as one of the best examples of traditional architecture. Built from sandstone, in 1896, the house offers sweeping views out towards the sea – although the view has been slightly obscured by recent development. The one-time ruler of Dubai used the house to monitor trade in and out of the country. The house was reopened as a museum, in 1986, and also contains an exhibition illuminating Dubai’s development from the 1940s to the late 1960s. Near Al-Shindagha Tunnel, Al-Shindagha Road Tel: (04) 393 7139. Transport: Bus 8, 16, 19 or 20. Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0830-2100 and Fri 1500-2200. Admission: Dh2. Jumeirah Mosque The Jumeirah Mosque is the most photographed building in the city and an impressive example of modern Islamic architecture. Built along medieval Fatimid lines, entirely of stone, the mosque and its two minarets are unmistakable. It is particularly attractive at night, when subtle lighting increases its dramatic effect. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter mosques in Dubai, although can enter this one if on an organised tour. Al-Jumeirah Road Transport: Bus 8 or 20. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours; access to non-Muslims through organised tours only. Admission: Free. Grand Mosque The Grand Mosque was only rebuilt in 1998 and boasts the city’s tallest minaret, at 70m (231ft). Located on the Bur Dubai side of the creek, near the Ruler’s Court, the Grand Mosque consists of nine large domes and 45 smaller ones. This huge religious edifice can house up to 1200 worshippers. Ali ibin Ali Talib Street Transport: Bus 19. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours; entrance to non-Muslims is forbidden. Admission: Free. Souks (markets) The souks, or traditional markets, are one of Dubai’s greatest attractions. They are located on both sides of the creek, with the most impressive on the Deira side. The highlight is the colourful Spice Market, which abounds with exotic aromas and bustles with locals seeking bargains. Wandering around the atmospheric souks is a good way for visitors to get in touch with how life was in Dubai, before oil was discovered. Deira Covered Souk, Al-Sabkha Road Deira Old Souk or Spice Souk, 67 Street Deira Gold Souk, Sikkat al-Khali Street Perfume Souk, Sikkat al-Khali Street Electronics Souk, Al-Sabkha Road and Al-Maktoum Hospital Road Dubai Souk, Bur Dubai Transport: Bus 5, 16, 19 or 20 all drop off at souks in both Bur Dubai and Deira. Opening hours: Daily 0700-1200 and 1700-1900; closed Fri am. Admission: Free. Children’s City Opened in March 2002, at Dubai Creekside Park, Children’s City is already proving a big hit with both local and international youngsters. The 7700sq-metre (82,882sq-ft) development takes young minds on a journey through the human body, science and space, with the help of different ‘zones’. With plenty of hands-on action to keep even the most demanding children occupied, this is no dull old museum. All exhibits are in English as well as Arabic. Creekside Park Tel: (04) 334 0808. Website: www.childrencity.ae Transport: Bus 19. Opening hours: Sat-Thu 0900-2200, Fri 1600-2200. Admission: Dh15; Dh10 (children under-16); family concessions available. Dubai Museum The building that houses the Dubai Museum, Al-Fahidi Fort, is an attraction in itself. The historic fort, dating back as far as 1799, was converted into a museum, in 1970. The exhibits range from old weapons and pearl-diving outfits to an impressive range of military artefacts. Some of the most fascinating exhibits are those recovered from the 3000 to 4000-year-old graves at Al-Ghusais. Al-Fahidi Road Tel: (04) 353 1862. Transport: Bus 19. Opening hours: Daily 0830-2030. Admission: Dh3. Majlis Ghorfat Um-Al-Sheef At the Majlis Ghorfat Um-Al-Sheef, it is possible to delve into the opulent world of the moneyed men of Dubai. The late ruler of Dubai, Ghorfat Um-Al-Sheef, used this building as his ‘home from home’ but it is now open to the public. The building dates back to 1955 and its most impressive feature are the majlis gardens, which include a reproduction of a traditional Arab irrigation system. 17 Street, off Al-Jumeirah Road Tel: (04) 394 6343. Transport: Bus 8. Opening hours: Daily 0730-1430 and 1630-2100. Admission: Dh1. Heritage Village The Heritage Village is an attempt to weave in some local colour among Dubai’s rapidly developing 21st-century skyline. The emphasis is on recreating the Bedouin way of life, with locals dressed in traditional garb, displays of traditional handicrafts, song and dance. Local handicrafts are also available for purchase. Near Shindagha Tunnel, Al-Shindagha Road Tel: (04) 393 7151. Transport: Bus 8, 16, 19 or 20. Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0800-2200 and Fri 1600-2200. Admission: Free. Further Distractions Encounter Zone Tucked away on the third floor of the Wafi Shopping Centre, the state-of-the-art Encounter Zone entertainment centre is a playground for people of all ages. The most popular attractions are the Crystal Maze, the horror chamber and the range of 3D films. The emphasis is on fun, fun and yet more fun, with both kids and big kids enjoying attractions, such as the virtual reality rollercoaster and the myriad of arcade games. Wafi Shopping Centre Tel: (04) 324 7747. Transport: Bus 14, 16 or 44. Opening hours: Sat-Tues 1000-2300, Wed-Thurs 1000-2400. Admission: Free. Jumeirah Beach Much of the long expanse of Jumeirah Beach is dominated by luxury hotels and their facilities. However, there is a stretch of public beach available, with clean white sand, crystal clear seawater and bath-temperature surf. Some of the hotels allow non-guests to use their pools and stretches of beach if they buy lunch or pay a nominal fee. Al-Jumeirah Road, next to Marine Beach Resort Transport: Bus 8 or 20. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. Tours of the City Walking Tours Dubai is a sprawling city that can be difficult to walk around and there are no official guided or signposted tours. However, a self-guided stroll around the older central parts of Deira and Bur Dubai is a great way for visitors to discover the delights of the city, exploring its traditional souks or stumbling across hidden mosques or wind towers. Bus Tours A number of companies offer half-day city tours, including Arabian Adventures (tel: (04) 303 4888; website: www.arabian-adventures.com) and Columbus Tours (tel: (04) 224 2555). Tours vary depending on the operator but most go to the old and new Dubai souks, Jumeirah Mosque, the thriving commercial area and include a creek crossing by abra (local water taxi). Prices start at Dh100. Another option is to see Dubai by night. Post-tour dinner in one of Dubai’s many restaurants is usually a feature of the night-time tours, which also incorporate the mosques, palaces and souks. The tours operate a very organised system, with pick-ups at all main hotels. Other Tours Coastline Leisure (tel: (04) 398 4867) operates one-hour guided tours of Dubai Creek by dhow. Tours run three times a day, at 1130, 1530 and 1730, costing Dh35. The company also offers dinner cruises on Sundays and Tuesdays, costing Dh240, as well as the opportunity to charter larger boats. Boats leave from Deira. Arabian Adventures (tel: (04) 303 4888, website: www.arabian-adventures.com), also offer a variety of cruises on Dubai Creek, with prices starting at Dh150. Alternatively, tourists should go down to Dubai Creek and charter a traditional abra (water taxi), which costs Dh40-60 for a short river tour lasting 60-90 minutes. The length of the tour and the price should be agreed in advance. Otherwise, visitors can just ride one across the creek to the other side (journey time – 5 minutes) for Dh0.50. Excursions For a Half Day Dune bashing: An increasingly popular activity is dune bashing, which involves tourists being driven out into the surrounding desert sand dunes in a 4X4 and thrashing up and down the dunes. Visitors should not hire their own vehicles, as desert driving can be dangerous for the inexperienced. Arabian Adventures (tel: (04) 303 4888, website: www.arabian-adventures.com) and Alpha Tours (tel: (04) 294 9888; website: www.alphatoursdubai.com) both run regular tours and can combine dune bashing with desert dinners in recreated Bedouin camps. Prices start at Dh245, including dinner. Camel rides: Arabian Adventures (tel: (04) 303 4888; website: www.arabian-adventures.com) operates a ‘Rides and Slides’ tour combining camel rides with sand skiing. Rides on the original ‘ships of the desert’ offer a totally different perspective on Dubai’s desert landscapes. A half-hour journey in a traditional caravan introduces tourists to Dubai’s traditional way of life, before throwing them back into the 21st century with the exhilarating new sport of sand skiing. The half-day tour costs AED195, available Monday, Thursday and Saturday. For a Whole Day Hajar Mountains: The Hajar Mountains, located 100km (62 miles) from Dubai city, run along the border with Oman. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are the best way for visitors to explore the rugged mountainous terrain. Highlights are the wadis (rock pools), which offer the chance to cool off, and the hill town of Hatta, which has been recreated along traditional lines, in a mountain oasis. Arabian Adventures (tel: (04) 303 4888; website: www.arabian-adventures.com) and Alpha Tours (tel: (04) 294 9888; website: www.alphatoursdubai.com) both offer tours to this region, costing Dh320 and Dh285 respectively. Hotels Dubai’s number of quality of hotels is continuing to grow, with a host of new openings for 2002 and more planned for the future, with the massive Palm Islands project slated to bring another 80 luxury hotels to the city. Sales tax of 10% and service charges of 10% are automatically added to the bill at checkout; tipping of porters is also expected. The prices quoted below include tax and service charges and are for a standard double room, including breakfast unless otherwise stated. Business Al Bustan Rotana This ‘Leading Hotels of the World’ member, under the leadership of Imad Elias, is one of Dubai’s most established luxury business hotels. It is very conveniently located within easy reach of both the airport and the city centre. The 300 guest rooms are split between standard rooms, the ‘Club Rotana’ executive floor – with its own business centre and secretarial support – and a range of luxurious suites. The first floor rooms offer direct access to the outdoor pool and the four tennis courts. The largest conference space is the Grand Rashidiya Ballroom, which can seat up to 1500 delegates. Leisure facilities include a private beach club at Jumeirah and the Bodylines Health Club at the hotel. Al Garhoud Road, PO Box 30880 Tel: (04) 282 0000. Fax: (04) 282 8100. E-mail: albustan.hotel@rotana.com Website: www.rotana.com Price: From Dh1200 Emirates Towers These two ultra-modern skyscrapers are the tallest buildings in the Middle East. Part office, part hotel, the towers are very conveniently located for doing business in Dubai, right at the heart of the Central Business District. Each state-of-the-art room is geared towards business guests – there is access to the Internet via high-speed modem points and the in-room TVs as well as individual fax/printer/copy machines, each with their own fax number. The deluxe rooms even have their own chaises longues. The conference centre has 17 meeting rooms and the hotel also has 14 offices for the use of guests. Sheikh Zayed Road, PO Box 72127 Tel: (04) 330 0000. Fax: (04) 330 3030. E-mail: reservations@emirates-towers-hotel.com Website: www.emirates-towers-hotel.com Price: From Dh1300. JW Marriott Hotel This impressive and classically elegant five-star hotel is located a short drive from Dubai’s international airport. The 344 rooms include those that are specially geared towards physically impaired travellers. There are also non-smoking rooms available. All rooms have two telephone lines, modem points and Internet access through the in-room TVs. There is a dedicated business centre, as well as 31,000sq metres (333,692sq ft) of conference space spread across 11 rooms. One major attraction is the rooftop swimming pool and sun terrace. Abu Baker Al Siddique Road, PO Box 16590 Tel: (04) 262 4444. Fax: (04) 262 6264. E-mail: marriott@emirates.net.ae Website: www.marriotthotels.com Price: From Dh800. Sheraton Deira Hotel This central 224-room hotel is justifiably popular with both the domestic and international business communities. The rooms have all mod cons, with three telephone lines, voicemail, trouser presses and large safes. A number of state-of-the-art conference rooms are available to meet different requirements, with the centrepiece – Al Massah Ballroom – catering for up to 1200 people. Other plusses include complimentary airport transfers, a rooftop pool with views over Dubai’s skyline and no fewer than nine eating and drinking venues. For days off there are also free shuttle transfers to the Sheraton at Jumeirah Beach. Al Mateena Street, PO Box 5772 Tel: (04) 268 8888. Fax: (04) 268 8876. Website: www.sheraton.com Price: From Dh1100. Luxury Burj Al Arab The ‘Arab Tower’, which has become a symbol of Dubai, defies all superlatives thrown at it and is truly unlike any other hotel on the planet. Rising, like something out of a Bond movie, from its own man-made island in the Arabian Gulf, this multi-storey monster is an oasis of true luxury. All rooms are sumptuously designed suites with wide-screen TVs and all mod cons, although the garish overuse of gold and bright does not suit all tastes. Even the cheapest rooms have their own dining table and individual business centre, complete with laptop, printer and in-room Jacuzzis. As the price of the suites rise, so do the number of facilities, with additional extras like snooker tables, cocktail bars and even private cinemas. The most expensive place to stay in Dubai remains one of the most unique hotels in the world. Jumeirah Beach, PO Box 74147 Tel: (04) 301 7777. Fax: (04) 301 7000. E-mail: reservations@burj-al-arab.com Website: www.jumeirahinternational.com Price: From Dh4000. Ritz-Carlton Dubai This top-drawer hotel is one of the best on the Jumeirah Beach strip and a model of casual elegance. There are only 138 rooms, making it one of the smaller hotels in this area, which results in more personal standards of service, with over 350 staff members. The low-rise buildings and soft terracotta hues make this building look more like a European hacienda than a hotel in 21st-century Dubai. Leisure facilities include three swimming pools – one with a swim-up bar – tennis courts, squash courts, a gym and a cigar bar. Business facilities include 209sq metres (2250sq ft) of function space and 88sq metres (950sq ft) of meeting space, as well as 24-hour secretarial support. Another plus is that all rooms have either a sea-facing patio or a balcony with sea views. Jumeirah Beach, PO Box 26525 Tel: (04) 399 4000. Fax: (04) 399 4001. E-mail: rcdubai@emirates.net.ae Website: www.ritzcarlton.com Price: From Dh1500. Moderate Landmark Hotel For a central, budget, four-star hotel, this accommodation is difficult to beat. The 160 rooms are clean and well kept and the staff friendly and helpful, although the hotel has few frills. One bonus is the free parking that the hotel provides in this central location. The modern, glass-fronted hotel also has a small business centre and a swimming pool. Nasser Square Tel: (04) 228 6666. Fax: (04) 228 2466. Price: From Dh400 (excluding breakfast). Sheraton Jumeirah Beach Resort & Towers This is one of the best value luxury hotels on Jumeirah Beach and an excellent place for one to stay for both business and leisure. The 255 rooms are spacious and comfortable, with the ‘Towers’ floors offering use of a dedicated lounge, complimentary breakfast and 24-hour butler service. Leisure facilities include an outdoor pool, floodlit tennis courts and a well equipped gym, while the hotel caters for corporate clients with a business centre and the Al Sufough Ballroom, which can hold up to 350 delegates. Jumeirah Beach, PO Box 53567 Tel: (04) 399 5533. Fax: (04) 399 5577. E-mail: sherjum@emirates.new.ae Website: www.sheraton.com Price: From Dh700 (excluding breakfast). Other Recommendations Al Maha Resort This luxury retreat draws on the classic image of Dubai in times gone by, as an Arabian desert land, crossed by nomadic tribes. The ‘eco-friendly’ style is very low key, as the decor and facilities are moulded so as to have as little impact on the surrounding desert as possible. There are 30 suites available in a hotel that also puts an emphasis on personal service, with a staff-to-guest ratio of three to one. Al Maha Resort can organise four-wheel desert safari trips or camel treks into the surrounding deserts. The only drawback is that it really does feel a million miles from anywhere and getting to the city centre can take over an hour. In terms of meeting facilities, the hotel can cater for groups of up to 20. Al Ain highway (by four-wheel drive vehicle), PO Box 7631 Tel: (04) 343 9595. Fax: (04) 343 9696. E-mail: almaha@emirates.com Website: www.al-maha.com Price: From Dh4400 (including all meals and activities). Hatta Fort This mountain retreat is situated in the Hajar Mountains, a one-hour drive from Dubai city centre, and the breathtaking scenery of the mountains is the main attraction in a hotel that is comfortable without being truly luxurious. Sports facilities include a crazy golf course, a shooting range and a gym, while the hotel-organised four-wheel drive ‘wadi bashing’ safari tours are also very popular. For travellers in a hurry, there is a helipad that can connect with flights to and from Dubai’s international airport. The guest rooms are all situated in chalet-style accommodation, spread over the hotel’s 32-hectare (80-acre) gardens. The hotel gardens can cater for cocktail and various other theme parties, for up to 2000 guests, while the main conference room can accommodate up to 100 delegates. Sharjah, PO Box 9277 Tel: (04) 852 3211. Fax: (04) 852 3561. Website: www.hattafort.com Price: From Dh600. Restaurants We have selected 25 restaurants, which we have divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. As Dubai is a Muslim city, many restaurants, especially at the cheaper end of the market, are not licensed to serve alcohol. However, restaurants in the tourist and business hotels almost always serve alcohol. Sales tax at 10% is added to all bills. Service charges at 10-15% are also frequently added but, if they are not, a 10% tip is expected. The prices quoted below are for a three-course meal and a bottle of house wine or the equivalent and include sales tax but not service charges. Gastronomic Al Muntaha Al Muntaha has the best location in Dubai, suspended hundreds of meters above the Arabian Gulf, at the top of the Burj Al Arab hotel. Service is immaculate and the slanted glass windows give the restaurant the feel of a great ocean liner heading out to sea. Al Muntaha also delivers on the plate, with starters such as lobster Caesar salad or seared scallops, and mains the likes of grilled hammour (a local fish) or roasted prime beef rib with mustard crust. An unusual dessert option, created by executive chef John Wood, is the Cranachan, a delicious Scottish oatmeal ice cream. Burj Al Arab Hotel, Jumeirah Beach, PO Box 7147 Tel: (04) 301 7777. Fax: (04) 301 7000. E-mail: reservations@burj-al-arab.com Website: www.jumeirahinternational.com Price: Dh500. Wine: Dh250. La Baie Under the expert guidance of head chef Carl Stockenstrom, this fine dining restaurant rather fancies itself to be located in a major European capital, with its mellow piano music, unfaltering service and elegant table settings. The food is similarly impressive and it all adds up to a meal that may stretch the credit card but is guaranteed to be of the highest quality. One of the most exotic starters is the marinated sturgeon carpaccio with caviar and yoghurt sauce, while a highlight among the mains – and rumoured to be the chef’s favourite – is the grilled hammour on a bed of green lentils. Ritz Carlton Dubai, PO Box 26525 Tel: (04) 399 4000. Fax: (04) 399 4001. E-mail: rcdubai@emirates.net.ae Price: Dh350. Wine: Dh130. Palms One of Dubai’s finest venues for high-class French cooking, Palms, at the JW Marriott Hotel, bends over backwards to make the Parisian experience authentic, with immaculately attired waiters and fresh produce that is flown in daily from the French capital. The crème brûlée dessert is rated among many locals as the best in Dubai. The extensive French wine list is similarly impressive. JW Marriott Hotel, PO Box 16590 Tel: (04) 262 4444. Price: Dh300. Wine: Dh100. Sphinx Sphinx has been amongst Dubai’s finest restaurants for a number of years now and its reputation is well deserved. The setting is spectacular in the Wafi Pyramid complex, with Egyptian style decor and candlelight dining. The service is attentive without being overbearing and food presentation is imaginative. Starters include the excellent lobster bisque and the unusual fried goats cheese and beetroot sorbet, served with walnut and blue cheese salad. The first rate ‘surf n’ turf’ is the highlight of a main menu. Pyramids Complex, Wafi City, PO Box 26631 Tel: (04) 324 9603. Website: www.pyramidsdubai.com Price: Dh250. Wine: Dh120. Verre Gordon Ramsey’s recently opened Dubai venture has proved a resounding success and is already regarded by many discerning locals as the best place to eat in Dubai. The minimalist decor may not suit all tastes but the simple surrounds and the well thought-out lighting help focus deserved attention on the food. A nice touch is the chef’s specialities – tasty morsels of food that come between the impressive courses. Mains include salmon with a fricassee of peas and horseradish or poached chicken on a bed of tagliatelle. The desserts are divine. The three course lunch specials offer excellent value. Hilton Dubai Creek, PO Box 30880 Tel: (04) 212 7551. Price: Dh300. Wine: Dh120. Business Al Boom Floating Restaurant This is one of Dubai’s finest seafood restaurants and is located on board a traditional style dhow. Diners choose which fish they want from those on display and the chefs cook it to order. There is also a river cruise every night, creating a unique setting for a relaxed business dinner. Al Boom Tourist Village, PO Box 12650 Tel: (04) 341 0000. Fax: (04) 324 3930. E-mail: abt@emirates.net.ae Price: Dh200. Wine: Dh90. Al Dawaar Dubai’s only revolving restaurant, atop the Hyatt Regency Hotel, has some of the best views of any restaurant in the city. Refurbished in 2002, this restaurant revolves over a two-hour period, offering panoramic views of the entire city and out towards the Arabian Gulf. The most popular dining option is the international buffet, which features dishes from all corners of the globe. Hyatt Regency Hotel, PO Box 5588 Tel: (04) 209 1100. Fax: (04) 209 1000. Website: www.dubai.hyatt.com Price: Dh300. Wine: Dh240. Casa Mia Casa Mia is bit of a local secret. Savvy natives know it as the best Italian restaurant in Dubai – far better than the second-rate Italian cuisine that many of the big hotels offer. It is run by an Italian couple who lovingly look after all the cooking and tend to the decent wine list. The decor is authentic too, with an Italian style that just manages to avoid looking kitsch. It is advisable to book well ahead for one of the coveted dinner spots. Starters include beef carpaccio or red mullet and fennel salad, with mains of the likes of potato gnocchi or baked veal cannelloni. Behind Le Meridien Hotel, PO Box 10001 Tel: (04) 702 2507. E-mail: casamia@le-meridien-dubai.com Price: Dh150. Wine: Dh70. China Times For diners tired of the Jumeirah Beach Hotel restaurants, China Times offers arguably the finest Chinese cuisine in town. Some of the spicier dishes, like the Szechwan chicken or pork, may be toned down a touch for the palates of visiting businesspeople but China Times usually hits the spot. The decor is modern and the service polite without being too stuffy. Jumeirah Plaza, Jumeirah Beach, PO Box 1038 Tel: (04) 344 2930. Fax: (04) 344 3946. Price: Dh90. Wine: Dh40. Peacock This Chinese restaurant is located in the Sheraton Jumeirah, at the very end of the Beach strip, so it is a good place for business diners to take clients to escape the city. The cuisine of both Shanghai and the Hunan provinces, as well as the fiery tastes of the Szechwan region, are explored in a restaurant that caters for those who may not normally like what is conventionally thought of as ‘Chinese’ food. Service is friendly and efficient, with highlights on the menu being wonton soup as a starter and aromatic crispy duck or the unusual red snapper fillet, Cantonese style. Sheraton Jumeirah Beach, PO Box 12650 Tel: (04) 3995533. Fax: (04) 399 5577 E-mail: sherjum@emirates.net.ae Price: Dh100. Wine: Dh60. Trendy Al Iwan Located at the foot of the world’s tallest atrium, this café and restaurant is one of the most fashionable places to eat in Dubai. Arabian culinary delights are served up along with Arabic coffee just off the lobby area of the Arab Tower. The Lebanese mezze dishes are the most popular starters, while the mains include the divine kaban laban (minced lamb with onion and yoghurt sauce). The ambience may be a little overdone but for a place to relax in the midst of some mindblowing architecture, Al Iwan is difficult to beat. Burj al Arab, Jumeirah Beach, PO Box 74147 Tel: (04) 301 7777. Fax: (04) 301 7000. E-mail: reservation@burj-al-arab.com Website: www.jumeirahinternational.com/baa Price: Dh350. Wine: Dh250. IKEA Scandinavian cool comes to Dubai in this chic eatery (not part of the European furniture chain). It may be housed in a large shopping centre but it could easily be some new breezy style haunt in Stockholm upon entering. The decor matches the simple food, which includes Scandinavian specials, such as prawn smørrebrods and Swedish meatballs. Deira City Centre Mall, Deira Tel: (04) 295 0434. Price: Dh120. Wine: Dh70. Irish Village This truly unique restaurant is part of a whole street that has been built to look like it is has just been flown in from Dublin. The Irish Village serves up hearty pub grub, with fish and chips and Irish Stew on the menu, and also serves the legendary Irish ales Guinness and Kilkenny. Celtic culture is currently en vogue in Dubai making the Irish Village a very popular place to meet people. There are also seats outside. Near Dubai Aviation Club, PO Box 55400 Tel: (04) 282 4750. Fax: (04) 282 4751. Price: Dh250. Wine: Dh70. Spago This Italian restaurant, which has no connection to the Los Angeles venue of the same name, is new for 2001 and is already proving very popular. On the top floor of the Dubai Marine Hotel, this open-plan restaurant allows diners to see the Italian chefs at work. The clientele are young and buzzy and the food authentically Italian with the pasta dishes a speciality. Dubai Marine Hotel, PO Box 5182 Tel: (04) 352 0900. Fax: (04) 352 1035. E-mail: sales@centuryhoteldubai.com Website: www.centuryhoteldubai.com Price: Dh250. Wine: Dh75. Tamasha The restaurant at the Ramada Continental Hotel occasionally has live ‘Tamasha’ evenings. These involve savouring some fine Indian dishes (mainly spicy curries and other South Indian dishes) to the accompaniment of live music and Indian performers. These theme nights have already attracted a cult following after starting early in 2001. Ramada Continental Hotel, PO Box 31999 Tel: (04) 266 2666 or 2000. Fax: (04) 266 8887. E-mail: ramadadb@emirates.net.ae Website: www.ramadacontinental.com Price: Dh250. Wine: Dh90. Budget Cactus Jacks It may never win any culinary awards but Cactus Jacks seldom disappoints a hungry stomach. The restaurant also has a live DJ at weekends and things can turn quite wild after 2300, when the spicy Tex Mex food and the tequila kick in. Cactus Jacks dishes up all of the usual suspects – fajitas, burritos and tortillas – with plenty of meal deals and drinks specials. Airport Hotel, Al Garhoud Tel: (04) 282 3464. Price: Dh100. Wine: Dh70. Da Vinci's Restaurant This popular Italian restaurant offers an unpretentious setting and menu in a friendly environment. All of the usual pasta and pizza dishes are on offer and, although there are no real highlights, most dishes are consistently good. The dark decor and red, white and green chequered tablecloths may be a touch on the garish side but, for an evening meal that does not break the bank or challenge a delicate palate, this is a good choice. Airport Hotel, Al Garhoud Tel: (04) 7039 1233. Price: Dh95. Wine: Dh90. Deira City Centre Food Court This is one of the most popular of the many food courts that are dotted all around Dubai. On sale is the full smorgasbord of international foods, with the only unifying feature being that all the stands are cheap. The most popular stands serve up simple Chinese and Indian specialities accompanied by boiled rice. They also have a play area for kids, which takes some of the pressure off harassed mums and dads. Deira City Centre Mall, Deira Tel: (04) 295 1010. Price: Dh80. Unlicensed. Thattukada This excellent South Indian restaurant serves great-value food. Diners sit on long, wooden benches and are surrounded by film posters on the walls. The Kerala-influenced dishes include kappa erachi (tapioca and chicken curry) and karimeem porichathu (fish fry). Palm Beach Rotana Inn, PO Box 5822 Tel: (04) 393 1999. Price: Dh120. Unlicensed. Woodland Avenue This ultra-cheap South Indian restaurant has to be one of the best-value places in town. The menu is mainly vegetarian and there are few frills but, for value for money, an Indian meal at Woodland Avenue seldom This ultra-cheap South Indian restaurant has to be one of the best-value places in town. The menu is mainly vegetarian and there are few frills but, for value for money, an Indian meal at Woodland Avenue seldom disappoints. The vegetable thali is one of the most popular dishes and deservedly so. Al Karama, PO Box 7529 Tel: (04) 336 6632. Price: Dh60. Unlicensed. Personal Recommendations Al Mansour This old double-decked dhow (a traditional trading ship) has been converted into one of Dubai’s most unusual restaurants. It can seat over 150 diners on busy nights, however, booking ahead is still essential for the good food, which is eaten facing the lights of the Dubai skyscrapers glimmering across the waters of Dubai Creek. Intercontinental Hotel, PO Box 476 Tel: (04) 222 7171. Fax: (04) 228 4777. Website: www.dubai.intercontinental.com/dining.html Price: Dh300. Wine: Dh100. India Palace India Palace opened in late 2001 and has already become popular with the local ex-pat community. The emphasis on Rajasthani cooking is backed up by themed decor and artefacts shipped in from the region. The open kitchen is a nice touch, as are the family booths upstairs, with privacy available at no extra charge. The excellent value menu features starters such as lentil soup and prawn bisque with fresh vegetables, while mains include chicken and vegetarian kebabs and a range of delicately spiced curries. Alcohol is not available but the lassis are excellent, especially an unusual lassi seasoned with salt. Opposite Dubai Marine Hotel, Bur Dubai Tel: (04) 286 9600. Fax: (04) 286 5355. Price: Dh100. Unlicensed. Noodle House New for 2002 is this funky, laid-back Noodle House. In contrast to the stuffy business restaurants that tend to be associated with this part of Dubai, the emphasis here is on light, tasty food served up in relaxed surrounds. Patrons can forget table reservations and join the rest of the diners at the long communal tables in enjoying some delightful Asian noodle soups. Also served are spring rolls and more substantial dishes, such as sweet and sour chicken. The desserts are a bit hit and miss but, for a quick and cheerful meal, Noodle House is hard to beat. Emirates Towers Shopping Boulevard Tel: (04) 330 0000. Price: Dh85. Wine: Unlicensed. Splendido Splendido, located at the Ritz Carlton, is arguably the city’s finest Mediterranean restaurant, with a fresh and innovative menu. The setting is luxurious without being overbearing and there is a terrace for days when the sun is not too strong. Starters include marinated salmon with quail egg, pesto and pine nuts, or potato leek soup with lobster. Impressive main courses include rolled homemade pasta filled with ricotta and spinach, or black ink tagliolini with pesto, truffle oil and sautéed prawns. The delicious chocolate crème brulee is legendary. Ritz Carlton Hotel, Jumeirah Beach, PO Box 26525 Tel: (04) 399 4000. Fax: (04) 399 4001. Website: www.ritzcarlton.com Price: Dh250. Wine: Dh110. Venezia There is no restaurant in Dubai quite like Venezia. The recreation of all things Venetian, with mock Venetian buildings, classical musicians and real gondolas drifting around the indoor canal is truly bizarre. The standard Italian cuisine on offer is nothing special but with patrons invited to pick their own wine from their cellar and the sheer surreal ambience of the place make it worth a visit. Metropolitan Hotel, Sheik Zayed Road Tel: (04) 343 0000. Fax: (04) 343 1146. Price: Dh95. Wine: Dh65. Sport Sport is very popular in Dubai. As the city is home to few international sporting stars or teams, the trend is to bring in overseas teams to play in glamour friendlies and also to stage major sporting events, with lucrative prize money to attract the big-name stars. The perennially popular PGA Dubai Desert Golf Classic, held in February each year, is organised by Dubai World Trade Centre (tel: (04) 331 4200; website: www.dwtc.com). The Dubai Open Tennis Championship is held in February, at the Dubai Tennis Stadium (tel: (04) 316 6966; website: www.dubaitennischampionships.com). The Dubai International Rugby Sevens (tel: (04) 333 1198; website: www.dubairugby7s.com) is held in December, at the Dubai Exiles Rugby Club. Horseracing is also very popular among Dubai's moneyed men, who are not content to idly watch and instead opt to buy and race a few horses. The Dubai World Cup, organised by the Dubai Racing Club (tel: (04) 332 2277; website: www.dubaiworldcup.com), in March, is now the world's richest horseracing event with US$15 million in prize money. A more traditional event is the annual Emirates Championship Cup, a 130km (80-mile) endurance horserace through the shifting sands of the desert. Grand sporting projects currently under development include the new Dubai Cricket Stadium and the rather unlikely sounding but very characteristic-of-the-city Dubai Ski Resort. There is no umbrella ticketing organisation in Dubai and tourists wishing to buy tickets for sporting events can often get this organised through their hotels. Fitness centres: All the luxury hotels offer impressive leisure facilities. Some provide the unusual option of coaching from ex-Soviet Union Olympiads, who have flocked in droves from the economically bankrupt ex-Soviet states to work in Dubai. There are also private leisure clubs geared towards the ex-pat community throughout the city. Dubai Marine Beach Resort & Spa, Jumeirah Beach Road (tel: (04) 346 1111; website: www.dxbmarine.com), boasts floodlit tennis courts, two outdoor pools, a children's pool, squash courts, gymnasium and a health spa with public access during the evening. Le Mirage Health & Leisure Club, Le Meridien Jumeirah Hotel, Jumeirah Beach (tel: (04) 399 5555) accepts non-members for a fee of Dh75. Golf: For a nation dominated by so much desert, Dubai somewhat surprisingly has a number of top-quality grass golf courses. Emirates Golf Club, Junction 5, Sheik Zayed Road (tel: (04) 347 3222), was the Middle East's first championship grass course, when it opened. Rounds are available for non-members at off-peak times. Green fees are Dh330-365. Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club, Al-Garhoud Road (tel: (04) 295 6000), is currently host to the Dubai Desert PGA Classic and welcomes guests on a pay-and-play basis. Green fees are around Dh400. Dubai Golf and Racing Club, Nad al-Shiba Road (tel: (04) 336 3666), boasts a Scottish-style links floodlit grass course with green fees for non-members at Dh240-300. The Montgomerie, Emirates Hills, off Sheik Zayed Road (tel: (04) 399 9955, website: www.themontgomerie.com), designed by renowned Scottish golfer Colin Montgomerie, opened in 2002 and charges Dh550 per round. It is important for golfing visitors to note that all golf courses in Dubai are spike-free. Swimming: The four-hectare (12-acre) Wild Wadi Waterpark is part of the Jumeirah Beach Hotel complex, Al-Jumeriah Road (tel: (04) 348 4444; website: www.jumeirah-beach.com). This is a paradise for kids and big kids alike, with a thrilling array of 24 interconnected water rides, including the terrifying 'Jumeirah Sceirah', which hurtles the foolhardy at speeds of up to 80kph (50mph). All-day admission is Dh95 for adults and Dh75 for children. Reduced rate 'Sundowner' admission is available after 1600. Most hotel pools are open to the public for Dh25-50. Tennis: There are a number of tennis clubs that are open to the public. The Aviation Club, Al-Garhoud Road (tel: (04) 282 4122), has public courts, as does the Dubai Tennis Academy, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Al-Jumeriah Road (tel: (04) 406 8811). Watersports: The Arabian Gulf offers a wide range of watersports opportunities. Jet-skiing is available at the Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Umm Suqeim Road (tel: (04) 348 0000), for approximately Dh100 per half hour, water-skiing is available at most of the Jumeirah Beach hotels and scuba diving can be organised with Al-Boom Diving, Sand Beach Diving Centre (tel: (04) 342 2993; fax: (04) 342 2995; website: www.sbdiving.co.ae). Shopping With good reason, Dubai is regarded as the ‘Shopping Capital of the Middle East’. Shopping is undoubtedly one of the city’s greatest draw cards. It is largely divided into two main types – the old souks in Deira and Dubai Souk in Bur Dubai, and the glossy new shopping malls around Beniyas Square, Al-Rigga and Al-Hiyafa Road. New shops and malls seem to pop up every other month, to cater for the seemingly insatiable desire for retail therapy. The souks (see Key Attractions) offer an atmospheric shopping experience with sights, sounds and aromas that hint of yesteryear. The Spice Souk, Al-Sabkha Road, is more of a tourist attraction, while the buzzing Gold Souk, Sikkat al-Khali Street, offers some great deals on gold necklaces, rings, bangles, earrings and brooches, with gold prices among the lowest in the world. The Fish Souk in Deira is more of a tourist attraction, as visitors are unlikely to want to take fresh fish home with them. Early in the morning and late at night, local fishermen unload mountains of fresh fish, which they bargain and haggle over. Bargaining is the norm in all of the souks. Souks are generally open from 0700-1200 and 1700-1900. The best-value items at the large shopping malls are mainly electrical goods and designer clothing, although interesting local products include carpets, Bedouin jewellery and Arabian souvenirs. The Dubai Shopping Festival, from late March to late April, is a massive event with all the big stores and almost every shop in Dubai slashing prices in a month-long retail orgy. Other festivals and special promotions run throughout the year, which further enhance Dubai’s myriad of retail opportunities. Dubai’s shops are open 0800-1300 and 1630-2000/2100. Larger malls are open 1000-2200. Shops, malls and souks are all closed on Friday mornings. There is no sales tax in Dubai and the airport is renowned for having one of the finest duty-free opportunities in the world. This is open to both arriving and departing passengers. Culture Dubai’s cultural life comes in a distant third to making money and having fun, with cultural activities – where they are available at all – limited in scale. Dubai’s cultural life has always suffered from not having a major venue for cultural performances, although the Dubai Community Theatre is scheduled for completion in late 2002. With such a small population, there are no major indigenous orchestras or dance companies, although it is possible to find localised groups who occasionally put on public performances. A relative hive of cultural activity is the Creative Art Centre, Al-Jumeirah Road (tel: (04) 344 4394), which runs from Saturday to Wednesday. Mornings are reserved for young children, afternoons for older children and, in winter, evenings are set aside for adult classes. A wide range of cultural and handicraft activities are covered. The Dubai International Arts Centre, off Al-Jumeirah Road (tel: (04) 344 4398), offers a similar range, as well as art displays, with works for sale. There is no umbrella ticketing organisation in Dubai and tourists wishing to buy tickets for cultural events can often get this organised through their hotels. The monthly Time Out magazine, which can be found in many hotels, provides information on events and performances in Dubai. Music: Opportunities to hear classical music performed in Dubai are extremely limited. The Dubai International Congress Centre, Dubai World Trade Centre, Bur Dubai (tel: (04) 331 4200; website: www.dwtc.com), and The Crowne Plaza Hotel, Sheik Zayed Road (tel: (04) 331 1111), are the main venues that host visiting orchestras and musicians from around the world, although performances are far from regular. Many hotels employ a pianist to spice up their lobby, which is often as near to classical music as Dubai gets. Arabic nightclubs (see Dance) are the main venues for traditional Arabian music. Theatre: There is only one permanent theatre company in Dubai. The Indian Playhouse, Intercontinental Hotel (tel: (04) 222 7171 or 205 7333), features performances by Burjor Patel Productions and hosts the travelling British Airways Playhouse, which makes frequent visits to Dubai. Dubai Drama Group (website: www.dubaidramagroup.org) is an amateur theatrical company with over 100 members. Dubai’s first purpose-built Community Theatre is planned for completion by the end of 2002. Dance: There are no real dance companies in Dubai, although there are a number of dance schools, including the renowned Ballet Centre, behind Jumeirah Plaza (tel: (04) 344 9776), with ballet, jazz, tap and modern dance on offer. In addition, belly dancing and traditional dance are a mainstay in Arabic nightclubs, such as Al-Diwan, Metropolitan Palace Hotel (tel: (04) 227 0000), and Escoba, Al-Khaleej Palace Hotel (tel: (04) 223 1000). Film: Going to the cinema is a very popular pastime in Dubai. There are a number of cinemas for one to choose from, including Al Massa Bustan, Al Bustan Centre (tel: (04) 263 3444; website: www.al.bustan.com), and Frand Cineplex, adjacent to Wafi City (tel: (04) 324 2000), which provide English-language films. The programmes are currently full of big-budget Hollywood films with little arthouse content. Cultural events: Dubai’s dominant culture is founded around the Muslim religion, with most of the main cultural events being deeply religious, with little opportunity for tourists to participate. The year’s major event is the November fasting of Ramadan, a month-long Muslim celebration of the truth of the Holy Koran. Directly following Ramadan is Eid Al-Fitr, a three-day celebration in December. Eid Al-Adha is the four-day festival in February/March that follows the main pilgrimage to Mecca (the Haj). Dubai Summer Surprises is an attempt to attract more visitors during the slump summer months, from June through to September, with a wide range of cultural events – including henna tattoo painting and traditional handicraft making – in many of the city’s shopping malls and big hotels. UAE day, 2 December, is a public holiday celebrated in all of the seven emirates and increasingly is becoming a cultural event. Literary Notes To get right to the heart of Dubai, Graeme Wilson’s Father of Dubai: Sheik Rashid Bin Saeed al Maktoum (1999) is a detailed tribute to the founder of Dubai. Arabia Through the Looking Glass (1979), by Jonathan Raban, covers the region as a whole but also has an illuminating section on Dubai. A local perspective comes from the English translation of Muhammad al-Murr’s Dubai Tales (1991), with his famed short stories fleshing a bit of colour into the place. Muhammed al-Murr is one of the most revered local writers and it is worthwhile trying to get a copy of his other famous book, The Wink of the Mona Lisa (1994). A good pictorial look at Dubai is Ronald Codrai’s mid-20th-century Dubai – An Arabian Album (1992). Kevin Higgins’ The Emirates (1995) is a look at all of the United Arab Emirates and puts Dubai in clear context, while William Facey and Gillian Grant’s The Emirates by the First Photographers (2002) shows the sheer scale of change in Dubai and the other emirates, over the last century. Nightlife Contrary to popular belief, alcohol is available in Dubai – unlike in many other Gulf states, where drinking a pint of beer could land you in prison. Officially, non-Muslims are the only people allowed to drink, however, often you can find Dubai Arabs enjoying a pint in one of the city’s bars. There are no specific nightlife districts as many of the best bars are in the big tourist hotels throughout the city. Many of these are open until 0100 or 0200. A cheaper and livelier option is the independent bars that are dotted around town. Happy hours are common, with Thursday and Saturday the biggest nights for going out. Tuesdays and Sundays are often ‘Ladies Night’, with female revellers receiving free drinks. A beer is generally in the region of Dh15-20. The legal drinking age is 21. Licensing hours vary greatly, as many of the hotel bars are allowed to open and close whenever they want. Closing time is normally around 0100 or 0200. The club scene is a curious one, with nightclubs often delineated along ethnic and national lines. Increasingly big name DJs are being attracted to Dubai, as a Western-style clubbing scene starts to develop. By law, clubs must close at 0300. Many clubs are over-25 only. Dress codes for bars are generally relaxed, although some bars and all clubs insist on no jeans, trainers or sandals. A more mellow night out can be had at one of Dubai’s coffee houses, where you can smoke apple-flavoured tobacco from a shisha pipe. The monthly listing magazine, Time Out, can be found in many hotels, offering a full rundown of what is happening in Dubai at night. Hotel concierges are also often able to provide guests with the latest nightlife information. Bars: One of the oldest ex-pat bars, The Irish Village, off Al-Garhoud Road, is still going strong, with a good range of beers and outdoor seating. It faces stiff competition from more recent arrivals, such as Carter’s, The Pyramids, Wafi Centre, a stylish haunt of the 20- and 30-something brigade. Monday night happy hour is something of a local institution, with all cocktails priced at Dh10. Even more stylish is the minimalist Ginseng, Wafi City, with its mood lighting, Asian themed decor and first-rate cocktails. The lowest common denominator is catered for at Rock Bottom, Regent Place Hotel, Bur Dubai, a rowdy drinking den with three pool tables, live music and a dancefloor. A new favourite of Dubai’s ‘beautiful people’ is the swish Sho Cho, Dubai Marina Resort, Jumeirah Beach Road, a bar cum restaurant with a real buzz, live DJs, great cocktails and an outdoor jetty for special parties. The Fatafeet Café, Alseef Road, has good views of Dubai Creek and is an atmospheric coffee house in which to try a shisha. Casinos: Dubai adheres to the Muslim ban on gambling and there are no casinos in Dubai. Clubs: The most popular nightclub in Dubai, housed in the most genuine London-style club venue, is Planetarium, Planet Hollywood, Wafi City. Since the closure of the legendary Lodge, this has been the main venue for clubbers to head for. It also recently celebrated its third birthday. Planetarium is the most likely place in town to attract the big-name international DJs. Scream, Ramada Hotel, Al-Mankhool Road, is a warehouse-type venue that blasts out the latest techno to an appreciative crowd. Pancho Villa’s, Astoria Hotel, Al-Nahda Street, has become a bit of an institution on the Dubai club scene, with a mainstream choice of music, a restaurant and frequent live bands. Live music: Planet Hollywood, Wafi Pyramids, off Al-Qataiyat Road, is a reliable option, with an eclectic selection of mediocre to good bands and covers outfits. Bordertown, Al-Rolla Road, is a Mexican theme bar that stages live bands most nights of the week. The current en vogue music in Dubai is retro throwbacks to the 1970s and 1980s, with stars that are considered washed up in the rest of the world – such as the Human League, Kajagoogoo and Kim Wilde – regularly trooping into Dubai. City Statistics Location: Southern shore of the Arabian Gulf, northeastern United Arab Emirates. Country dialling code: 971. Population: 858,000. Ethnic mix: 60% Indian, Pakistani and Filipino, 25% Emirates, 12% Arab and 3% Western ex-pats. Religion: 57% Muslim, 20% Hindu, 20% Roman Catholic and 3% other. Time zone: GMT + 4. Electricity: 220 or 240 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: 24°C (75°F). Average July temp: 41°C (106°F). Annual rainfall: 300mm (11.8 inches). Special Events Dog Show, the only show of its kind in the Middle East and a popular family day out, Feb, Dubai Golf and Racing Club Dubai Tennis Championships, Feb, Dubai Tennis Stadium Eid Al-Adha, four-day festival following the main pilgrimage to Mecca, Feb/Mar, throughout the city Al-Hijra (Islamic New Year), Mar, throughout the city Dubai Summer Surprises, summer festival aimed largely at children, Jun-Aug, various venues Dubai Raft Race, teams battle it out from their multicoloured rafts, while spectators revel in the carnival atmosphere on land, Oct, Al-Mina Al-Siyahi Ramadan, during the month of Muslim fasting, bars and pubs close and restaurants stop serving alcohol and even non-Muslims must not eat, drink or smoke on the street, Nov, throughout city UAE Desert Challenge, the first stage of this high-profile motor sport event usually kicks off in style in Dubai, Nov, routes vary National Day Celebrations, celebrating independence from Britain, 2 Dec, throughout city Dubai Rugby Sevens, popular winter event lures crowd with big-name teams and pre-, during- and post-game parties, early Dec, Dubai Exiles Rugby Club Eid Al-Fitr, three-day festival, Dec, throughout the city Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: Dh4 33cl bottle of beer: Dh17 (only available in tourist hotels, restaurants and bars) Financial Times newspaper: From Dh12 36-exposure colour film: Dh26 City-centre bus ticket: Dh1-3.5 Adult football ticket: No professional team Three-course meal with wine/beer: Dh110 1 United Arab Emirates Dirham (Dh1) = £0.17; US$0.27; C$0.41; A$0.45; €0.25 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.