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_City Overview Fondly known as the Bayou City, Houston was founded in 1836 – by brothers Augustus and John Allen – on the banks of Buffalo Bayou (a creek). This southeast Texan city is named after General Sam Houston, of the Texas Army that won independence from Mexico. Within a year of its foundation, Houston became the capital of the Republic of Texas until 1840, when that honour was transferred to Austin. However, this Republic was rather short-lived as Texas joined the Union in 1845. It kept itself an escape route, however – the right to secede whenever it wishes is written into the constitution. Despite its high-rise skyline, Houston has an open feel with several lakes and waterways – such as the Buffalo Bayou – winding their way through the city, surrounded by lush green landscape. The city has been a dynamic centre of business, particularly in oil, since ‘black gold’ was discovered at nearby Beaumont in 1901. It is also the leader in space technology – Houston is home to NASA and the Johnson Space Center, the base for Mission Control and where astronauts are trained. It was established in 1961, as NASA’s primary site for the design, development and testing of spacecraft for human flight. The port area, which linked to the city by the Houston Ship Channel – an 80km (50-mile) inland waterway – is thriving and has developed into an important business district for the city. Other districts, such as Interstate 10’s Energy Corridor and the areas around the Galleria and the Texas Medical Center, are also pivotal points in Houston’s commercial concerns. The city is the now the fourth largest in America, covering an area of 1598sq km (617sq m). In recent years, Houston’s Downtown area has undergone a dramatic transformation into a dynamic area of the city, both as an entertainment district and as a residential district, with many buildings being converted into loft apartments and selling at a premium. The area is a magnet for people who wish to have dinner, see a movie or a show and walk along the historic waterfront in Sesquicentennial Park. Bayou Place, an entertainment complex in the Downtown Theatre District, has been a great addition to the area, providing restaurants, live music and a multiplex cinema. Lovers of theatre are well catered for year round, as Houston is one of a handful of American cities that has permanent ballet, orchestra, opera and theatre companies. Uptown Houston is the major shopping district, while areas such as Montrose – where artists, actors and musicians gather – and Heights – with beautiful Victorian homes – all give a sense of the diversity of the city. Houston has a temperate climate all year round, although the humidity in the height of summer can make the city feel warmer than the actual temperature suggests it is. Such a climate means lush green gardens, fragrant flowers and towering trees. Houston is alive and thriving and the attractions of such a vibrant city, and the mild climate and many opportunities in the oil and gas industries, computers, aerospace and medicine, have turned it into a desirable place in which to live. Getting There By Air George Bush Intercontinental Airport (IAH) Tel: (281) 230 3000. Website: www.houstonairportsystem.org Located 35km (22 miles) north of the city, the airport is used by over 25 airlines, for both international and domestic flights, serving 152 destinations worldwide, from four terminals. In 2000, around 35 million passengers passed through the airport. Major airlines: Continental Airlines (tel: (800) 525 0280 for domestic flights or (800) 231 0856 for international flights; website: www.continental.com) use George Bush Intercontinental Airport as their hub for both domestic and international flights. Other major airlines include Air Canada, Air France, American Airlines, British Airways, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, Lufthansa, Northwest Airlines, Southwest Airlines, TWA and United Airlines. Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, tourist information, car hire (Avis, Dollar and Hertz), duty free, shops, restaurants, bars and games rooms. Business facilities: Airlines provide business lounges for frequent flyer members only. The Houston Marriott Airport Hotel (tel: 281 443 2310; website: www.marriotthotels.com) has a business centre with meeting rooms and full facilities. The hotel is located in the centre of the airport terminal complex and is connected by an underground train service. Transport to the city: Express Shuttle (tel: (713) 523 8888; website: www.coachusa.com) operates a service to Downtown Houston, 0530-2330 every 30 minutes (journey time – one hour). Tickets are US$19. METRO (tel: (713) 635 4000) operates regular public buses (101 Airport Express and 102 Bush IAH) to Downtown Houston, Monday-Friday 0500-0100, every 25 minutes (journey time – one hour). Tickets are considerably cheaper at US$1.50. Taxis are also available outside the terminal and fares to Downtown Houston are in the region of US$37.50. William P Hobby Airport (HOU) Tel: (713) 640 3000. Website: www.houstonairportsystem.org Located 16km (ten miles) to the southeast of Houston, the airport provides domestic flights to over 65 US cities, served by eight airlines. In 2000, over nine million passengers used the airport. Major airlines: Southwest Airlines (tel: (281) 922 1221 or (800) 435 9792; website: www.iflyswa.com) uses William P Hobby Airport as its hub. Other major airlines include American Airlines, American Eagle, Comair, Continental Express and Delta Airlines. Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, tourist information, car hire (Avis, Dollar and Hertz), shops and restaurants. Business facilities: There is an airport meeting room for hire (tel: (713) 640 3000) but no additional business services are available. Transport to the city: Express Shuttle (tel: (713) 523 8888; website: www.coachusa.com) operates a regular service to Downtown Houston, 0530-2200 (journey time – 1 hour). Tickets cost US$14. METRO (tel: (713) 635 4000) operates regular public buses (50 Harrisburg and 101 Airport Express) to Downtown Houston, daily 0500-0100 every 30 minutes (journey time – 45 minutes). Tickets are just US$1. Taxis are available outside the terminals and fares to Downtown Houston are in the region of US$17.50. Approximate flight times to Houston: From London is 10 hours 20 minutes; from New York is 5 hours 20 minutes; from Los Angeles is 3 hours 10 minutes; from Toronto is 3 hours 25 minutes and from Sydney is 18 hours 45 minutes. Arrival/departure tax: Included in the price of the ticket. Getting There By Road Interstate highways in the USA are the equivalent of motorways and are designated by the letter I and a number. In addition to the interstates, there are state and local roads. The traffic drives on the right and overtaking should only be done on the inside lane, although cars on a five-lane highway regularly pass on both sides. At crossroads without traffic lights, the four-way stop system means that it is first come first served for right of way. At traffic lights, a right turn is permitted (with due care) on a red light, unless specifically stated not to do so. All driver, front-seat passengers, and children (under the age of 14) seated in the back are required by law to use seatbelts. It is illegal to pass a school bus (from either direction) if it has stopped and has its hazard lights flashing. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. The speed limit is 48kph (30mph), if there are no signs, although the general posted speed limit in town is 56kph (35mph). Freeway driving speeds are 88-113kph (55-70mph). The legal driving age in Houston is 16. A valid drivers licence in English or and International Driving Permit (IDP) is required – IDPs are not accepted unless accompanied by a valid driving licence. Third party liability insurance is mandatory. The American Automobile Association – AAA (tel: (800) 222 1333; website: www.aaa.com) can provide information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries. Emergency breakdown service: AAA (800) AAA HELP or 222 4357 Routes to the city: Houston is encircled by Interstate 610 – known as The Loop. This is intersected by Interstate I-10, which links the city to San Antonio to the west and New Orleans to the east, and also Interstate I-45 from Dallas to the north and Galveston to the south. Driving times to Houston: From San Antonio – 4 hours; Dallas – 4 hours 30 minutes; New Orleans – 7 hours. Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (713) 759 6565 or (800) 229 9424; website: www.greyhound.com) operates regular services to San Antonio (journey time – 3 hours 30 minutes), Dallas (journey time – 4 hours 30 minutes) and New Orleans (journey time – 8 hours 30 minutes). There are also Greyhound services to other major towns and cities in Texas and further afield. The bus station is located at 2121 Main Street, and is open 24 hours a day. Getting There By Rail Amtrak (tel: (800) USA RAIL or 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) operates long-distance services from Houston Amtrak Station, 902 Washington Avenue (tel: (713) 224 1577). Facilities are limited to food vending machines and payphones, although there are ATMs and a post office nearby. The ticket office is open 0700-2100 on Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday and 0700-2430 on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. The cost of rail travel is rather expensive but the level of comfort is high. Rail services: The Sunset Limited service links Houston with San Antonio (journey time – 4 hours 50 minutes), El Paso (journey time – 4 hours 20 minutes), Tucson (journey time – 22 hours 30 minutes) and Los Angeles (journey time – 34 hours 05 minutes) in the west. To the East, there are services to New Orleans (journey time – 9 hours) and Orlando (journey time – 33 hours 15 minutes). Transport to the city: Houston Amtrak Station is very central, so taxis are not really necessary. Metrobus 36 Kempwood stops at the station. Getting Around Public Transport Public transport in Houston is fairly well developed and reasonably priced. Nevertheless, most visitors to Houston generally prefer to hire a car, for ease of movement. The Metropolitan Transit Authority – METRO (tel: (713) 635 4000; website: www.ridemetro.org) operates an extensive bus service throughout the city. This starts at 0500 and stops at 2400, although certain services stop earlier in the evening. In addition, METRO operates a free trolley bus service every seven minutes from 0630-1930, covering five different routes that link the major hotels with tourist destinations. A one-way bus fare in the city centre zone costs US$1 – higher rates apply to other zones. There are fare boxes on the bus (correct change is required). Alternatively, visitors can buy tokens in advance – two rides are free with tokens purchased to the value of US$8. Day passes cost US$2 and allow unlimited travel in a 24-hour period, while weekly passes cost US$9. Concessions are available on all fares and passes. Information and tickets can be obtained from RideStores, located at 720 Main Street, and 813 Dallas Street (open Monday-Friday 0730-1730). Local shops displaying the METROstop sign also sell tickets. Taxis Taxis are plentiful but can be rather expensive for short distances. There generally is a charge of US$4 for the first mile and US$1.65 for each additional mile. A tip of around 10% of the fare is usual. There are plenty of cabs Downtown but elsewhere they are more difficult to find and it is better to phone for one. Companies include Fiesta Cab Company (tel: (713) 236 9400), Square Deal Cab Company (tel: (713) 659 7236) and Yellow Cab Company (tel: (713) 236 1111). Limousines Sapphire Limousines (tel: (713) 532 6367 or (800) 586 9160; website: www.sapphirelimousines.com) offers a stretch limousine service. Prices cost US$85 per hour, with a minimum of three hours hire. Driving in the City Most visitors to Houston prefer to hire a car, as it is the best and most cost-effective way of travelling around the city. Driving in the morning and evening rush hours (0700-0900 and 1630-1830) should be avoided, as the roads are very congested. Other than that, Houston is one of the few major US cities where congestion has declined in the past ten years, mainly due to a massive construction programme. The highways have Protected High Occupancy Vehicle lanes for buses, carpools and vanpools, which reduce the commuter traffic. Parking is generally not a problem with plenty of car parks, such as Park on the corner of Milam and Texas Streets, and Alright Parking on the corner of Travis and Prairie Streets. These cost around US$10 for the day and US$5 for the evening. Some on-street parking is available, although difficult to find in the Downtown area. The maximum period is only one hour, which costs US$1. Car Hire Insurance is compulsory when hiring a car in Houston. It should also be confirmed that there is adequate Loss Damage Waiver and personal liability insurance. Visitors looking to hire a car must be in possession of a full national driving licence. The minimum age is generally 25 years, although some companies will hire cars (at a higher rate) to drivers aged between 21 and 24 years. Avis, 4825 Richmond Avenue at Galleria (tel: (713) 629 7230; website: www.avis.com), Dollar, 8686 Kirby Drive (tel: (713) 797 9624; website: www.dollar.com), and Hertz, 2120 Louisiana Street (tel: (713) 652 0436; website: www.hertz.com) all have offices in Houston. Prices start from around US$30-70 per day. Bicycle Hire Very few people attempt to cycle around Houston and consequently there are currently no bicycle hire outlets in the city. There are some cycle trails in Houston’s parks but no facilities for bicycle hire. Business Business Profile Traditionally, Houston’s prosperity has been linked to oil – in 1981, the statistics proved this, with 81% of the economy dependent on petroleum. Today, however, only 52% of the economy depends on oil and the city has diversified into areas such as aerospace, computers (hardware and software) and biomedical technology. Service industries account for around 40% of jobs. Texas Medical Center is the largest medical centre in the world and the largest employer in Houston with around 50,000 employees working in its 42 member institutions. Houston is also home to NASA and the Johnson Space Center, which trains all astronauts and co-ordinates much of the development of the space shuttle and international space station. NASA employs around 20,000 people. Houston is also the home of Continental Airlines and Compaq Computer Corp, which are both Fortune 500 companies (an elite group of America’s largest companies). The main business areas are Downtown, the Galleria area, and the Greenway Plaza area. The Port of Houston is the second largest major port in the USA for total tonnage and handles more foreign tonnage than any other US port. It handles mainly cargo but has also become an important departure point for cruise ship companies, including the Royal Olympic Cruises, with weekly cruises into the Caribbean. There are, however, no ferry services available from the port. In 2000, Houston saw its unemployment figure plunge to 3.1%, the lowest ever recorded. But the figure has significantly increased to 4.4%, following the national slow down in growth experienced by the USA. This figure still compares favourably to the national figure of 5.4%. However, the events of 11 September 2001 will change this dramatically, as Continental Airlines subsequently retrenched thousands of staff. Business Etiquette American businesspeople tend to be more informal than their European counterparts and are likely to use first names on initial contact. Business attire for both men and women is usually a suit, especially in the large corporations. Some of the smaller companies have adopted a more relaxed approach to dress and allow employees to wear smart-casual clothes, although definitely no jeans. The use of business cards is commonplace. Appointments for meetings should be made in advance and punctuality is expected. It is quite common for meetings to be held over lunch but these tend to be alcohol free and strictly business. Business dinners usually take place in restaurants rather than at homes, and the exchanging of gifts is not usual practice. After-work drinking is commonplace as many bars have happy hours until 1900. Business hours are officially Monday-Friday 0900-1730, although these are often much longer. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Houston’s skyline is testament to the oil boom era and a period of extensive development that stopped abruptly in the 1980s. Several buildings, such as the Texas Commerce Tower and the Texaco Plaza, have observation floors from where it is possible to see the vast flat area over which the city sprawls. A ten-kilometre (six-mile) system of underground pedestrian tunnels and sky walks add an extra dimension to the street guide and are particularly welcome as an escape from the summer heat. The Sam Houston Historical Park illustrates the early history of Houston –sadly a number of the houses were damaged by flooding during Tropical Storm Allison, in June 2001. Across the street is the recently renovated Art Deco-style City Hall. Lovers of open spaces will be drawn to the lovely Hermann Park, which is not only home to the Houston Zoo but also contains two gardens that are totally different in style – the Japanese Gardens, with a traditional tea house and wooden footbridges, and the Houston Garden Center. In addition to this, there is also a golf course and the Miller Outdoor Theatre, which offers free outdoor performances during the summer months. Close by is the Museum District – a beautiful area of tree-lined paths, landscaped gardens and fountains – which is packed with many of Houston’s finest museums, including the Museum of Fine Arts, the Menil Collection and the Holocaust Museum Houston. Also worth a visit is the Williams Tower Water Wall, where water cascades down a 19.5m (64ft) curved black wall in the shape of a horseshoe. No longer open for tours, the Astrodome was the world’s first air-conditioned domed stadium for baseball and football but is now used for annual events, such as the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo. The Astrodome – so large that an 18-storey building would fit inside it – prompted the invention of plastic Astroturf, after the grass died during the first season of play. Tourist Information Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau 901 Bagby Street Tel: (713) 437 5200 or (800) 446 8786. Fax: (713) 227 1408. E-mail: houtour@ghcvb.org Website: www.houston-guide.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-1600. Tourist information is also available from Clear Lake/NASA Area Convention and Visitors Bureau at 1201 NASA Road 1. Passes There are no tourist passes currently available in Houston. Key Attractions Space Center Houston The Space Center Houston is a privately operated attraction that acts as the official visitor centre of NASA’s Johnson Space Center. Exhibits include the Gemini and Apollo capsules, other space flight hardware and astronaut memorabilia. Visitors can enjoy a behind-the-scenes tour of the Johnson Space Center, hands-on space simulators, IMAX films and even watch astronauts train for upcoming shuttle missions. 1601 NASA Road 1 Tel: (281) 244 2100. E-mail: schinfo@spacecenter.org Website: www.spacecenter.org Transport: Metrobus 246 Bay Area NASA. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900 (summer); Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1000-1900 (winter). Admission: US$14.95, concessions available. Contemporary Arts Museum The Contemporary Arts Museum, established in 1948 and housed in an award-winning contemporary all-metal structure, has several rotating exhibitions each year. It displays new and recent works of the last 40 years, by regional, national and international contemporary artists. Recent exhibitions included the works of the avant-garde artist, Yoko Ono. In 2002, an exhibition will examine the profound influence of cartoons and comics in contemporary art. 5216 Montrose Boulevard, Museum District Tel: (713) 284 8250. Fax: 284 8275. Website: www.camh.org Transport: Metrobus 34 Montrose or 65 Bissonnet. Opening hours: Tues and Wed 1000-1700, Thurs 1000-2100, Fri and Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700. Admission: Free. Museum of Fine Arts The Museum of Fine Arts has an impressive collection of over 40,000 pieces of art, including antiquities and Renaissance art through to Impressionism and early Modernism. It also has fine African sculptures, textiles and costumes. The striking Beck Building, designed by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo, was opened in March 2000, doubling the size of the museum and allowing more of the ever-growing collection to be displayed. The building has a roof that is studded with skylights, which gives ideal lighting conditions in which to view the paintings. Highlights include the Straus Collection of Renaissance and 18th-century paintings and the Beck Collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art, including Van Gogh, Monet, Matisse and Gauguin. 1001 Bissonnet Street, Museum District Tel: (713) 639 7300. E-mail: visitorservices@mfah.org Website: www.mfah.org Transport: Metrobus 1 Hospital, 2 Bellaire or 4 Beechnut. Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Sat 1000-1900, Thurs and Fri 1000-2100, Sun 1215-1900. Admission: US$5, concessions available; free entry on Thurs. Menil Collection The Menil Collection is the home of the works of art collected by John and Dominique de Menil – a prominent, wealthy Houston family – while on their travels. The private collection includes antiquities, Byzantine art, tribal art and 20th-century works, such as Cubism, Minimalism, Surrealism and Pop Art. There is also a permanent collection of astronomical instruments and ceremonial masks, which fascinated the Surrealists. 1515 Sul Ross Street, Museum District Tel: (713) 525 9400. Fax: 525 9444. E-mail: info@menil.org Website: www.menil.org Transport: Metrobus 78 Alabama. Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1100-1900. Admission: Free. Holocaust Museum Houston The Holocaust Museum Houston serves as a memorial to the millions who were imprisoned and died in Nazi death camps in World War II. The museum contains a permanent exhibition hall, regularly changing temporary exhibitions, a memorial area and sculpture garden. A permanent exhibition – ‘Bearing Witness: A Community Remembers’ – reveals the atrocities of the Holocaust through the words and memorabilia of local survivors. The museum features a 30-minute film – Voices – which is a montage of oral histories by Holocaust survivors from the Houston area. Guided tours available at weekends at 1230, 1330, 1430 and 1530. 5401 Caroline Street, Museum District Tel: (713) 942 8000. E-mail: 2ndgen@hmh.org Website: www.hmh.org Transport: Metrobus 1 Hospital, 2 Bellaire or 4 Beechnut. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat and Sun 1200-1700. Admission: Free. Houston Museum of Natural Science This museum contains an impressive collection of natural exhibits. Highlights include the Cockrell Centre – filled with butterflies and tropical plants and featuring a 21m (40ft) waterfall, a rainforest environment, a planetarium and a permanent exhibition of dinosaur skeletons. There is also an IMAX theatre. 1 Hermann Circle Drive, Museum District Tel: (713) 639 4629. E-mail: webmaster@hmns.org Website: www.hmns.org Transport: Metrobus 1 Hospital, 2 Bellaire or 4 Beechnut. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1800 (until 2000 Tues in summer), Sun 1100-1800. Admission: US$5 (exhibits); US$4 (planetarium); US$4 (Cockrell centre); US$6.50 (IMAX); concessions available; free after 1400 on Tues. Houston Zoo A very popular visitor attraction, the Houston Zoo covers 22 hectares (55 acres) and is home to over 700 species of animals, reptiles and amphibians and. The zoo was established in Hermann Park in 1922 – with only a handful of animals – and has grown steadily since the federal government gave the city zoo a bison named ‘Earl’ in 1920. It is now an important centre for conservation and research. Most days, there are opportunities to view the feeding of certain animals (such as vampire bats) and also to see demonstrations by sea lions. The Wortham World of Primates is a lush 0.88-hectare (2.2-acre) replication of the natural rainforest habitat for the 13 species of monkeys and apes on show there. Other popular attractions are the big cats – including white tigers, leopards and jaguars. 1513 North MacGregor Street, Hermann Park, Museum District Tel: (713) 523 5888. E-mail: krusso@houstonzoo.org Website: www.houstonzoo.org Transport: Metrobus 1 Hospital Texas Medical Center. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800. Admission: US$2.50, concessions available. Children’s Museum of Houston A wonderful experience for those aged from four months to 14 years, the Children’s Museum of Houston has a variety of hands-on exhibits in the fields of science, history, culture and arts. The ‘Think Tank’ is a problem-solving exhibit using mirror magic and optical illusions. Activities concerning the environment feature tree rubbing and insect collecting. 1500 Binz Street, Museum District Tel: (713) 522 1138. Fax: 522 5747. E-mail: mzannone@cmhouston.org Website: www.cmhouston.org Transport: Metrobus 1 Hospital, 2 Bellaire or 4 Beechnut. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1200-1700. Admission: US$5, concessions available; free family night every Thurs 1700-2000. Sam Houston Historical Park The eight-hectare (19-acre) Sam Houston Historical Park contains a collection of restored historic buildings – including houses, a church and a reconstructed row of shops. The buildings have been collected together on this site, to go with the 1847 Kellum-Noble House, the oldest house in Houston. A recent addition to the collection is the 1870 two-storey house belonging to Jack Yates, the first to be built by a freed slave. Guided tours are take place hourly, with the last one starting one hour before closing time. These historic buildings set against the sleek city skyscrapers make for a great photo opportunity. Two of the houses – Old Place and Pillot House – were badly damaged in the floods following Tropical Storm Allison and are still closed for restoration. 1100 Bagby Street Tel: (713) 655 1912. Fax: 655 7527. Website: www.heritagesociety.org Transport: Metrobus 18 Kirby, 40 Pecore, 48 W Dallas, 50 Heights or Allen Parkway Special. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1300-1600. Admission: US$6, concessions available. Museum of Health & Medical Science A rather fascinating museum, the Museum of Health & Medical Science (part of the world-renowned Texas Medical Center) gives an exciting tour of the human body, with huge sculptures of human organs (including a brain and a rib cage). There are also plenty of hands-on and interactive exhibits that explore how the body works and how to stay healthy. 1515 Hermann Drive, Museum District Tel: (713) 521 1515. Fax: 526 1434. E-mail: info@mhms.org Website: www.mhms.org Transport: Metrobus 1 Hospital Texas Medical Center. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1200-1700. Admission: US$4, concessions available; free for families on Thurs 1600-1900. Further Distractions National Museum of Funeral History The National Museum of Funeral History – a rather unique attraction – houses memorabilia from the funerals of celebrity figures such as John F Kennedy, Martin Luther King and Elvis Presley. A recent addition is the original equipment for the John F Kennedy Eternal Flame, which was used between 1967 and 1998. The collection also includes a funeral sleigh, a Packard mourning bus, a 1941 hearse/ambulance and embalming artefacts. 415 Barren Springs Drive Tel: (281) 876 3063. Fax: 876 2961. E-mail: info@nmfh.org Website: www.nmfh.org Transport: Metrobus 86 FM 1960. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1600, Sat and Sun 1200-1600. Admission: US$6, concessions available. Houston Arboretum & Nature Center Visitors who wish to escape the hustle and bustle of the city can enjoy the native plants and wildlife at the Houston Arboretum & Nature Center, located next to Memorial Park. The centre has eight kilometres (five miles) of nature trails covering various habitats – such as forest and prairie – which cater for the different requirements of the animals living there. 4501 Woodway Drive Tel: (713) 681 8433. Fax: 681 1191. Website: www.neosoft.com/~arbor Transport: Metrobus 17 Tanglewood. Opening hours: Daily 0830-1800 (grounds); Tues-Sun 1000-1600 (Discovery Room). Admission: Free. Tours of the City Walking Tours Houston is not an ideal city in which to walk around, however, visitors who are interested in the architecture and culture of the city can join one of the monthly Sunday walking tours, which are offered by the Greater Houston Preservation Alliance (tel: (713) 216 5000; website: www.ghpa.org). The tours vary each month, so keen walkers should telephone for details and departure point information. The cost is US$10. Alternatively, both Memorial Park and Buffalo Bayou have jogging trails that are ideal for getting some fresh. The views of the Downtown skyline are spectacular from the Buffalo Bayou. Bus Tours Gray Line Tours (tel: (713) 670 3254 or (800) 334 4441) have a year-round city sightseeing tour, departing daily (except Sundays) and taking two and a half hours. Tickets are US$25, and a minimum of ten passengers is required. The tour starts at the Westin Galleria Hotel and City Hall and passes through the Downtown area, the Theatre District, the Museum District, Hermann Park and the uptown area. Gray Line Tours also operate a five-hour daily tour (except Sundays) to the Space Center Houston. Tickets cost US$45 and a minimum of ten passengers is required. Excursions For a Half Day Kemah Boardwalk: Only a 45-minute drive from Downtown Houston – south along I-45 and Tex-518 – Kemah is a popular half-day trip, due to its waterfront shops, restaurants and amusement rides. Nearby, the Old Seabrook Historic District is a charming village with shop-lined streets, outdoor markets and seasonal festivals. Information is available from the Kemah Boardwalk (tel: (877) 285 3624; website: www.kemahboardwalk.com). For a Whole Day San Jacinto Battleground Historical Complex: Approximately 32km (20 miles) east of Houston – along Tex-225 and Tex-132 – is the spot that marks the battleground where Texas won its independence from Mexico in 1836. The complex (tel: (281) 479 2421; website: www.sanjacinto-museum.org) houses the San Jacinto Monument (open daily 0900-1800), which is a 174m (570ft) obelisk that towers over the surrounding area – there is an observation deck for visitors to enjoy the views. At the base of the monument is the San Jacinto Museum of History (open daily 0900-1800). Of particular interest is the Battleship Texas (open daily 1000-1700), commissioned in 1914, which saw action at Normandy and Okinawa. Entrance to the site (open daily 0800-2100 March to October and 0800-1900 November to February) and museum is free but there is a charge of US$3 (concessions available) for the observatory and US$3.50 (concessions available) for the film (Texas Forever!), which is shown every hour until 1700 at the Jesse H Jones Theater for Texas Studies. Galveston Island: Located 80km (50 miles) southeast of Houston – along I-45 – on the Gulf of Mexico, this island (website: www.galveston.com) is rich in history. The grand avenues and quiet lanes of the East End and Silk Stocking Historic Districts are home to some extravagant residences built by the wealthy merchants. The Strand has Victorian shops, art galleries and museums. Across the island, Moody Gardens (tel: (409) 744 4673 or (800) 582 4673; website: www.moodygardens.com) houses an aquarium representing the oceans of the world, a tropical rainforest, an IMAX screen and the Lone Star Flight Museum housing an extensive collection of restored aircraft. The complex is open 1000-1800 Sunday to Thursday and 1000-2100 Friday and Saturday. Day passes can be booked online and cost US$28.95. Hotels An occupancy tax, which currently stands at 17%, is added to all room rates. This tax is usually added to the bill at the end, although it is always a good idea to check whether it is included when making a reservation. The prices quoted below are the starting prices for double rooms, excluding occupancy tax and breakfast, unless otherwise stated. Business Doubletree Hotel This is a popular business hotel due to its excellent location in the Business District, close to the George R Brown Convention Center, the entertainment centre, Bayou Place and the Theatre district. The hotel’s 350 rooms all have lovely views over the city’s parks and downtown skyline and are well equipped for the business traveller with modem points in all rooms. Additional facilities include a fitness room, pool, spa and complimentary transportation to downtown, and there are 16 meeting rooms with audiovisual equipment. Guests can dine in the hotel’s Lobby Lounge, which overlooks the Allen Center courtyard, or in the Brasserie for more casual dining. Allen Center, 400 Dallas Street Tel: (713) 759 0202. Fax: (713) 759 1166. E-mail: dtdowntown@yahoo.com Website: www.doubletree.com Price: US$209. Four Seasons Hotel Just three blocks from the George R Brown Convention Center and close to the theatre and museum districts, this hotel is a popular choice for businesspeople. The 404 guest rooms all have modem points and multi-line telephones and are very pleasing to the eye, decorated in cool colours. The hotel’s facilities include a fitness centre, pool and spa, and there is also a complimentary car service to downtown for guests. The newly renovated Quattro Restaurant is well known in the city for its innovative menu, while for lighter meals there is the Poolside Café. The hotel has a business centre and 13 meeting rooms for hire, together with audiovisual equipment. 1300 Lamar Street Tel: (713) 650 1300. Fax: (713) 652 6220. Website: www.fourseasons.com/houston Price: US$300. The Houstonian Hotel, Club and Spa Set in eight hectares (18 acres) of parkland close to the Galleria, this hotel has a wide range of facilities to suit both the business and leisure traveller. The hotel has an old-world charm with an enormous fireplace in its welcoming lobby. The rooms are tastefully decorated and have oversized desks and dual-line dataport speaker phones. The excellent facilities include a health and fitness club, spa facility and an 18-hole golf course. There are three restaurants – the Olivette, serving Mediterranean food, the Manor House, offering American food, and the Center Court, with lighter meals. The hotel also has a business centre and 29 meeting rooms with audiovisual equipment available. It also runs a complimentary shuttle service to the Galleria shopping area for guests. 111 North Post Oak Lane Tel: (713) 680 2626. Fax: (713) 688 6305. E-mail: hotelgm@houstonian.com Website: www.houstonian.com Price: US$345 (US$199 Friday/Saturday). Sheraton North Houston Conveniently located just outside George Bush Intercontinental Airport, this hotel is also well placed for easy access to roads downtown and a number of 18-hole golf courses. All 420 rooms are soundproofed to prevent any disturbance from airport noise. Leisure facilities include outdoor and indoor pools and fitness centre. The Maxwell Café is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and the Drafts Sports Bar has 16 large-screen TVs and serves light snacks. There are 22 meeting rooms, the largest one seating 1000 people, all with audiovisual facilities. 15700 John F Kennedy Boulevard Tel: (281) 442 5100. Fax: (281) 987 9130. Website: www.sheraton.com/northhouston Price: US$219. Luxury The Lancaster Located in the heart of the financial and theatre districts, The Lancaster is pure timeless elegance decorated in an English country house style with rich colours, classic fabrics and reproduction antique furniture. The 93 rooms and suites each have sumptuous marble bathrooms, VCR and CD players, mini-bar, fax machine and modem points. The hotel contains the award-winning Bistro Lancaster and a fitness facility, together with three meeting rooms, catering for between six and 125 people. The Lancaster also offers its guests complimentary transportation within the downtown area. 701 Texas Avenue Tel: (713) 228 9500. Fax: (713) 223 4528. E-mail: info@lancaster.com Website: www.lancaster.com Price: US$325. Special rates available at weekends. The Warwick Hotel The Warwick is conveniently located 3.2km (two miles) from both the heart of the city and the George R Brown Convention Center, close to Hermann Park for golf and jogging and only 40km (25 miles) from George Bush Intercontinental Airport. This prestigious hotel was built in 1926 in a European style with antique wooden panelling and an 18th-century Aubusson tapestry. The rooms are full of character with antique-style furniture but also well equipped. Facilities include a fitness centre, outdoor swimming pool, gift shop and two restaurants – the Hunt Room, an intimate steakhouse with marble fireplace, and outdoor café-style dining in the Terrace. The hotel reopened in December 2001 following renovation work required after the summer flooding. 5701 Main Street Tel: (713) 526 1991. Fax: (713) 526 0359. Website: www.lhw.com/warwick Price: US$145. Moderate La Quinta Inn One of a chain of 16 extremely good-value hotels in the Houston area, this particular hotel is located close to the Galleria. There are 155 bright, clean and spacious rooms, plus 18 suites. The hotel does not have a restaurant however. Room features are standard in all La Quinta Inn hotels and include private bathroom, cable TV, video games, telephone, modem point, huge desk and coffeemakers. Facilities within the hotel include an outdoor pool and spa and limited meeting space. Guests are also given free local telephone calls. Whichever La Quinta Inn is used, standards are consistent throughout. 1625 West Loop South Tel: (713) 355 3440. Fax: (713) 355 2990. Website: www.laquinta.com Price: US$60 (including breakfast). Wellesley Inn & Suites Its excellent location in the trendy Galleria area makes this extremely good-value hotel very popular. Although there is no restaurant at the Wellesley Inn & Suites, there are plenty of eating places nearby. The 64 studios and 70 suites are light and spacious with private bathrooms, fully equipped kitchens, TV, telephone and irons/ironing board. Additional facilities include laundry service, a pool and fitness centre, and two meeting rooms. The wooden-panelled hallway and Art Deco interior make a stay in this modern hotel a very pleasant experience. 7855 Katy Freeway Tel: (713) 263 9770. Fax: (713) 263 9771. E-mail: lochu@primehospitality.com Website: www.wellesleyinnandsuites.com Price: US$50 (including continental breakfast). Other Recommendations La Colombe d’Or Hotel This is the world’s smallest luxury hotel with only five suites and one penthouse, each with a private dining room and marble bathroom. In addition, there are nine Courtyard Villas, mainly used by guests staying several nights as they are private and more spacious. Built in 1923, the very elegant French furnishings in this hotel are complemented by original art and antiques. The hotel and its restaurant won the Best Romantic Hotel Award in 2000 and 2001. La Colombe d’Or has a ballroom, Le Grand Salon de le Comtesse, for up to 600 guests and in its heyday, dinner guests included King Edward VII, Kaiser Wilhelm and Rodin. It is conveniently located inside ‘the Loop’, just a few minutes from downtown. 3410 Montrose Boulevard Tel: (713) 524 7999. Fax: (713) 524 8923. Website: www.lacolombedor.com Price: US$195. Lovett Inn This wonderful historic house, once home to a former Houston mayor, is located in the heart of the Montrose-Museum District, close to downtown, the Galleria and George R Brown Convention Center. There are only eight rooms, some with four-poster beds, and each is decorated to evoke the inn’s historic past. Rooms are not as well equipped as some of the traditional business hotels, but still have cable TV and telephone with voice-mail, and the hotel can offer a fax service. There is a meeting room available for hire and the hotel also has a garden, pool and Jacuzzi. 501 Lovett Road Tel: (713) 522 5224. Fax: (713) 528 6708. E-mail: lovettinn@aol.com Website: www.lovettinn.com Price: US$75 (including continental breakfast). Restaurants We have selected 25 restaurants, which we have divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. In general, there is a sales tax of 8.25% added to food and drink bills. However, in reality, this tax varies and some restaurants only add the tax to either food or drink. Tipping of around 15% is expected and in some restaurants this may be added to the bill. The prices quoted below are for a three-course meal and for a bottle of house wine or equivalent, including sales tax but excluding tips, unless otherwise stated. Gastronomic Bistro Lancaster Located in the sumptuous Lancaster Hotel in the Theatre District, the Bistro is decorated in a European style but serves contemporary American cuisine. As its location makes it very popular with theatre-goers, it starts serving dinner from 1600 and dress is formal. Ingredients for meals come from the Gulf Coast region, such as crawfish tails or snapper fillet. Specialities include Black Angus ribeye in Cabernet sauce, served with haricots verts and herb butter. 701 Texas Avenue Tel: (713) 228 9502. E-mail: info@lancaster.com Website: www.lancaster.com Price: US$50. Wine: US$35. The Capital Grille The portions served in The Capital Grille, located west of the Galleria, are hearty. The speciality of the house is dry-aged steak and the menu consists mainly of beef dishes, with some seafood. Specials are available every day, but the pan-fried calamari with hot cherry peppers and scallions is a must. The plush, dark furnishings in this restaurant give the impression of a distinguished gentleman’s club. Closed lunchtimes. 5365 Westheimer Road Tel: (713) 623 4600. Fax: (713) 623 4606. Website: www.thecapitalgrillehouston.citysearch.com Price: US$50. Wine: US$28. La Colombe d’Or La Colombe d’Or, close to the downtown area, has a rare ambience with its elegant and intimate dining room, low lighting, walnut-panelled bar and padded leather chairs in the library. The mainly French food is superb, with surprisingly good portions for a gourmet experience, and the sautéed red snapper with minestrone garnish is highly recommended. Closed Saturday and Sunday lunchtimes. 3410 Montrose Boulevard Tel: (713) 524 7999. Fax: (713) 524 8923. Website: www.lacolombedor.com Price: US$60. Wine: US$32. La Tour d’Argent This stylish, award-winning French restaurant, near the Heights area, is located in Houston’s oldest log cabin. Small, intimate dining rooms contain tables with the finest silver and crystal settings and decorated with fresh roses. Several fireplaces make it very cosy in winter and the lobster bisque is a great favourite with diners. Closed Sunday. 2011 Ella Boulevard Tel: (713) 864 9864. Fax: (713) 864 9754. Website: www.latourdargent.citysearch.com Price: US$55. Wine: US$27. Scott’s Cellar Definitely a place to come for a special occasion or to impress someone by dining in the wine cellar, with floor to ceiling wine racks on all four walls. The choice of food (Chinese and international) and wines is outstanding and the crispy shrimp with honey-coated walnuts is one of Scott Chen’s signature dishes (US$20). Located close to the Galleria area, there are luncheon specials starting at US$9.50. 6540 San Felipe Tel: (713) 785 8889. Fax: (713) 789 9766. Website: www.scottscellar.com Price: US$40. Wine: US$30. Business Bombay Palace The Bombay Palace is a popular choice for both lunch and dinner, particularly known for its choice of vegetarian dishes and generous lunchtime buffets. The maribari snapper with coconut and yoghurt sauce is not to be missed. Warmly decorated in sari-pink and burgundy with a spacious bar area, this Galleria restaurant has a lively atmosphere. 4100 Westheimer Road Tel (713) 960 8472. Fax: (713) 993 0739. Price: US$35. Wine: US$30. Churrascos This restaurant, located a few minutes from the trendy Galleria area, relies heavily on its South American heritage, reflected in the earthy colours of the decor, as well as the texture, flavour and colour of the food served. The menu is extensive, with Churrascos speciality dishes including corn-smoked crab fingers in a chilli lime butter sauce. Lunch specials served Monday-Friday. Closed Sunday. 9705 Westheimer Tel: (713) 952 1988. Fax: (713) 952 2005. E-mail: fred@cordua.com Website: www.cordua.com Price: US$25. Wine: US$20 (white), US$40 (red). La Strada This extremely popular Italian restaurant, decorated in warm terracotta tones, is close to downtown and serves an excellent selection of pastas and brick-oven pizzas. Its location makes it very busy at lunchtimes and it is essential to book Sunday brunch, when there is live jazz with a distinctly Mardi Gras atmosphere. House speciality is crab cakes with chipotle beurre blanc, and specials are offered daily, with light lunches available. 322 Westheimer Road Tel: (713) 523 1014. Fax: (713) 850 0202. E-mail: lastrada@hypercon.com Website: www.lastrada.org Price: US$32. Wine: US$22. Nino’s Restaurant Run by the same family as Vincent’s, the emphasis in this downtown restaurant is on good home cooking from all regions of Italy, including excellent seafood, such as grilled red snapper with sun-dried tomato and pinenuts. Nino’s is a cosy place, filled with Italian pottery and hanging herbs and furnished with a huge old table always covered in an array of marinated and baked vegetables. Closed Saturday lunchtime and all day Sunday. 2817 W Dallas Street Tel: (713) 522 5120. Website: www.ninos-vincents.com Price: US$35. Wine: US$24. Truluck’s Steak & Stone Crab This smart, exclusive Galleria diner is made cosy by burgundy leather booths, mahogany interiors and marble floors. Stone crabs are shipped in from the Caribbean and also worth a try are the crabcakes and key lime pie. Truluck’s have ‘all you can eat’ nights on Mondays from 1700-2200. 5919 Westheimer Road Tel: (713) 783 7270. Fax: (713) 783 7559. Price: US$35. Wine: US$20. Trendy Mi Luna Mi Luna is a Spanish tapas bar, located in a restaurant decorated with tiles giving it an authentic Spanish feel. It serves main meals, as well as tapas, including delicious seafood, such as marinated octopus in sherry vinaigrette. This very loud yet fun restaurant is in The Village and is at its busiest Thursday nights at around 2300 when there is often dance music or a live band. 2441 University Boulevard Tel: (713) 520 5025. Website: www.miluna.citysearch.com Price: US$20. Wine: US$17. Pesce This is one of the trendiest places to be seen, attracting power diners to try its fresh seafood, such as red snapper, trout and mussels, served in a variety of styles, including Mediterranean, Asian and Creole. Diners can also enjoy a drink at the bar with oysters as an accompaniment. Very cosmopolitan, reservations are definitely required. Closed lunchtimes and all day Sunday. 3029 Kirby Drive Tel: (713) 522 4858. Fax: (713) 522 9660. Price: US$30. Wine: US$25. PF Changs China Bistro This trendy, upbeat Chinese restaurant, located in the Highland Village Shopping Center, attracts a young crowd. It serves great food with fine wine in a typical Chinese setting, with hand-painted murals on the wall reflecting the various old dynasties. A recommended dish is the lemon pepper shrimp served on sautéed chives and beansprouts. Closed Sunday. 4094 Westheimer Road Tel: (713) 627 7220. Fax: (713) 627 9367. Website: www.pfchangs.com Price: US$25. Wine: US$23. Saba Blue Water Café This trendy place to eat, located close to midtown, is made more attractive by its excellent seafood and steak menu – a great favourite is the scallops served on a buttermilk squash purée. Saba is stylish but casual with warehouse-style architecture (exposed brick walls) and a huge double-sided aquarium. Closed Saturday lunchtime and all day Sunday. 416 Main Street Tel: (713) 228 7222. Fax: (713) 228 7224. E-mail: chuck@sabacafe.com Website: www.sabacafe.com Price: US$27.50. Wine: US$20. Vallone’s Located in the River Oaks neighbourhood, this high-profile, pricey restaurant serves a selection of steaks, seafood and chops. The restaurant is in a retro, tin-roofed mock roadhouse with brick fireplace and comfy red leather banquettes. Smart, but definitely not formal, the sesame-crusted snapper is a must. 2811 Kirby Drive Tel: (713) 526 2811. Price: US$5. Wine: US$30. Budget Barry’s Pizza This good-value pizzeria is a firm favourite, serving good, hearty deep-pan pizzas, as well as pasta, such as pasta tubes stuffed with ricotta cheese. Barry’s is in a log cabin, located close to the Galleria, with a covered area for alfresco dining. It is an ideal place in which to unwind and even watch a ball game as the walls are covered with baseball and sports memorabilia, and there is even a TV room for watching the game. 6003 Richmond Avenue Tel: (713) 266 8692. E-mail: info@barryspizza.com Website: www.barryspizza.com Price: US$21.50. Wine: US$17. Blackeyed Pea Part of a chain across the city, this branch of Blackeyed Pea is well located close to downtown. It is popular with families (so very noisy) that are attracted by the home cooking, such as meatloaf, burgers and pot roast. Panelled walls give a warming home-style feel with pictures of old farming scenes and the countryside. 2048 West Grey Tel: (713) 523 0200. Price: US$12.50. Wine: US$15. Branches: 3601 S Sandman Street; 2048 W Gray Street; 551 Town and Country Village; 4211 Bellaire Boulevard. Collinas One of a small chain of pizza parlours, this branch is located in the Museum District and well-patronised by families, so it is particularly noisy. It serves good-value, hearty meals, including a large choice of pastas, as well as pizza. A particular favourite is the Mona Lisa pizza, with feta, tomatoes, spinach and mushrooms. Nightly specials available. Closed Sunday. 2400 Times Boulevard Tel: (713) 526 4499. Fax: (713) 526 3370. Price: US$17.50. Wine: US$20. BYO: US$2 (corkage fee). Branches: 12311 Kingsride Lane; 3835 Richmond Avenue. Pappa’s Bar-B-Q Popular barbecue-style restaurant serving hearty portions of beef, pork, sausages, ribs, turkey and chicken, with ranch-style beans, rice and salad. Located in the downtown area, it is particularly busy at lunchtimes when there are often queues. Casual dining in a country and western setting and particularly good for groups. 1217 Pierce Street Tel: (713) 659 1245. Fax: (713) 659 5315. Price: US$17.50. Bottle of Beer: US$1.95. Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen Pappadeaux serves Cajun-style food in a loud, fun atmosphere – this brightly coloured restaurant, which is part of a chain, is casual dining at its best. As portions are huge, a good-value restaurant can be made even cheaper by sharing a meal with a friend. Fish specials, such as pepper shrimp with herb butter, change daily and are recommended served blackened. 2410 Richmond Avenue Tel: (713) 527 9137. Fax: (713) 523 7839. Price: US$25. Wine: US$21. Branches: 10499 Katy Freeway; 2525 South Loop; 6015 Westheimer Road. Personal Recommendations Café Piquet This friendly, family-run restaurant in Bellaire serves homemade Cuban cuisine in a light, open setting, with memorabilia from Cuba covering the walls. House specialities include roasted pork, mixed black beans with rice or yucca with garlic sauce. Café Piquet is popular with the resident Cuban population, which is always a good recommendation. Closed Monday. 6053 Bissonnet Street, Bellaire Tel: (713) 664 1031. Fax: (713) 664 1125. E-mail: cafepiquet@hotmail.com Website: www.geocities.com/cafepiquet Price: US$18. Wine: US$15. Sambuca Jazz Café Sambuca is a great place to try hearty American food with a Mediterranean twist to it, served in delicious, tangy sauces. The restaurant is great for romantic meals – it is more like a supper club with white linen tablecloths and candles on every table. Live jazz bands perform nightly. 909 Texas Avenue Tel: (713) 224 5299. Fax: (713) 224 5290. E-mail: sambuca@flash.net Website: www.sambucahouston.citysearch.com Price: US$40. Wine: US$20. Sullivan’s Steak House Close to the Galleria, the sleek mahogany walls and Art Deco fixtures create a classy, drawing room elegance in this popular steakhouse. Sullivan’s has a simple menu with a wide choice of steaks, lamb, pork and seafood, as well as vegetarian options on request. The house special is a 20-ounce steak. There is nightly live jazz in the bar. Closed Sunday. 4608 Westheimer Road Tel: (713) 961 0333. Fax: (713) 961 1105. Price: US$30. Wine: US$30. Taste of Texas This traditional, open ranchhouse, on the west side of Houston, is crammed with Texas memorabilia, including guns, cowboy stirrups and animal heads. It celebrates all things Texan and is renowned for its Certified Angus Beef Steaks. The cosy and relaxed atmosphere makes for an ideal place in which to pass many enjoyable hours, especially as there is free cinnamon coffee on offer. Closed Saturday and Sunday lunchtimes. 10505 Katy Freeway Tel: (713) 932 6901. Website: www.tasteoftexas.com Price: US$35. Wine: US$36. Vincent’s Restaurant This popular, family-run Italian restaurant, decorated with warm terracotta tones, is popular with the business community because of its reasonable prices and downtown location. Vincent’s serves much more than just pasta and pizza and is justifiably well known for its signature dish of wood-fired rotisserie chicken with garlic mashed potato. Closed Saturday lunchtime and all day Sunday. 2701 W Dallas Street Tel: (713) 528 4313. Fax: (713) 528 1132. Website: www.ninos-vincents.com Price: US$35. Wine: US$20. Sport The Houston Astros (tel: (713) 627 8767; website: http://astros.mlb.com), the local Major League Baseball team, took on opponents at the Astrodome, before moving to the state-of-the-art open-air stadium, Enron Field, 501 Crawford Street (tel: (713) 799 9567), in March 2000. They have been particularly successful, being the National Division Central Division Champions for 1997, 1998 and 1999. Houston also has two successful basketball teams – the Houston Rockets of the National Basketball Association (tel: (800) 462 2849; website: www.nba.com/rockets) and the Houston Comets of the Women’s National Basketball Assocation (website: www.wnba.com/comets; tel: (713) 627 9622). Both currently have the Compaq Centre, 10 Greenway Plaza East, as their home stadium but a new multipurpose arena is under construction Downtown and is scheduled to open in September 2003. Tickets for the Rockets and the Comets can be purchased direct from the teams. Houston does not currently have its own National Football League team. This will change in September 2002, when a new team, the Houston Texans (tel: (713) 289 2002 or (877) 635 2002; website: www.houstontexans.com) will run onto the field in a brand new football stadium (Reliant Stadium) that is under construction next to the Astrodome. Golf is a popular game in Houston, and the mild climate allows for it to be played all year-round. The city is also home to the Houston Open Golf Tournament, a major venue for the PGA Tour’s players. Tickets for most sporting events can be obtained from Ticketmaster (tel: (713) 586 4263; website: www.ticketmaster.com). Fitness centres: The YMCA Healthclub, 1600 Louisiana Street (tel: (713) 758 9250), is open to non-members. 24-hour Fitness has a number of branches around the city – the 5800 Richmond Avenue outlet (tel: (713) 783 8448) charges US$10 for use of its gym facilities. Golf: There are more than 100 golf courses in the greater Houston area, many of which are open to the public. Hermann Park Golf Course, 2155 North MacGregor Street (tel: (713) 526 0077), and Memorial Park Golf Course, 6001 Memorial Loop Drive (tel: (713) 862 4033), are both easy to reach. Green fees are US$19.85 weekdays and US$25-35 from Friday to Sunday at Hermann Park. The Memorial Park is closed Tuesdays and green fees are US$22.50 weekdays and US$32 Friday to Sunday. Swimming: Waterpark lovers will enjoy SplashTown Waterpark (tel: (281) 355 3300; website: www.sixflags.com), with a number of pools and water rides. It is located at the Louetta Road exit, off I-45 in Spring. Next to the Astrodome is Six Flags Astro World and Water World (tel: (713) 799 1234 or 8404; website: www.sixflags.com), which is a theme park with water slides and a giant wave pool. Tennis: Tennis courts are available for public use in Memorial Park, 6501 Memorial Drive (tel: (713) 845 1000). Shopping Houston is a shopper’s paradise, as there are over 30 malls in the area. There is even a ten-kilometre (six-mile) system of underground pedestrian tunnels and sky walks for weather-free shopping and dining. The uptown area of Houston, around Westheimer Road at Post Oak, has a host of shops, including Macy’s, Versace, Tiffany and Gucci. Most are all located in the Galleria – a shopping mall that is also one of Houston’s top tourist attractions, with a giant indoor ice skating rink as its centrepiece. It is currently undergoing a US$25 million facelift. A few blocks east of the Galleria is The Highland Village Shopping Center, on Westheimer, with several upmarket shops, which is also being upgraded. A more eclectic mix of shops can be found in the Rice Village neighbourhood, with designer boutiques, art and craft galleries and traditional shops. Art galleries and antique shops are to be found in the Upper Kirby District. Houston’s oldest shopping district, West Gray, now has a string of Art Deco-inspired upmarket shops and galleries in the River Oaks Shopping Center. Most visitors to Texas come away with an item of cowboy wear, such as a stetson, and these can be bought at Stelzig of Texas, Post Oak Boulevard, or The Hat Store, Richmond Avenue. Other best buys include Western-style boots, clothes and riding equipment. Antiques and arts and crafts bargain hunters should go to the Back Bay Market (tel: (713) 474 3869, for opening hours), held twice a month, south of Downtown in Clear Lake. There is a sales tax of 8.25%, which foreign visitors can claim back if exporting their purchases. This can be done at Texas Tax Back, Level 3 of Galleria II (tel: (713) 965 9414), where passports and flight tickets have to be presented along with the sales receipts. Shopping hours are generally Monday-Saturday 1000-2100 and Sunday 1200-1800. Culture Houston has an impressive 17-block Theatre District, with a total of 12,000 seats. Only New York has more seats concentrated in one geographic area. It is also one of the few US cities with permanent ballet, opera, symphony orchestra and theatre companies. Tickets for concerts and theatre can be purchased from Ticket Stop (tel: (713) 526 8889 or (800) 666 4849; website: www.ticket-stop.com) or the Ticket Center (tel: (800) 828 8959; website: www.ticket-center.com). Ticketmaster (tel: (713) 629 3700; website: www.ticketmaster.com) is another good source for tickets to cultural events around the city. Up-to-date information on what is on each week is available from the free listings paper, The Houston Press (website: www.houstonpress.com), which is published on Thursdays. Music: The Houston Grand Opera (website: www.houstongrandopera.org) is based at the Wortham Theater Center, Texas Avenue (tel: (713) 237 1439), and has a reputation for presenting groundbreaking new operas. It has also won Grammy, Tony and Emmy awards. The Houston Symphony Orchestra has its home at the Jesse H Jones Hall for the Performing Arts, Louisiana Street (tel: (713) 224 7575; website: www.houstonsymphony.org), and its excellent reputation extends worldwide. Theatre: The Alley Theatre, Texas Avenue (tel: 713) 228 8421 or (800) 259 2553), is one of the oldest resident professional theatre companies in the country. It began its life literally in an alley in 1947. The Theatre Under The Stars – TUTS (tel: (713) 558 8887 or (800) 678 5440) performs musical theatre. It is currently bringing a touch of Broadway to the Wortham Theater Center, Texas Avenue (tel: (713) 237 1439), as well as the Arena Theatre, 7326 Southwest Freeway (tel: (713 988 1020; website: www.houstonareantheatre.com). However, from May 2002, it will be the resident company at the Hobby Center for the Performing Arts, Bagby Street (tel: (713) 227 2001; website: www.thehobbycenter.org), which is currently under construction. The Miller Outdoor Theatre (tel: (713) 284 8354) is an outdoor amphitheatre located in Hermann Park (website: www.houstonparks.org), which presents free performances – including ballet, Shakespeare, musicals and the Houston Symphony Orchestra – from March until November, Dance: The Houston Ballet (tel: (713) 227 2787or (800) 828 2787; website: www.houstonballet.org) also has its home at the lovely Wortham Theater Center Texas Avenue (tel: (713) 237 1439), where it puts on lavish dance productions. It is the fifth largest dance company in the USA, with international acclaim following several overseas tours. Film: Mainstream films can be viewed at many cinemas throughout the city, such as Cinemark/Hollywood 20, 2101 East Beltway 8 (tel: (713) 475 0081), Cinemark/Tinseltown-Westchase, 3600 West Sam Houston Parkway South (tel: (713) 952 1881), and Magic Johnson Theatre/Northline Mall, I-45 and Crosstimbers Street (tel: (713) 692 4600). Arthouse films can be seen at the Angelika Film Center, Bayou Place (tel: (713) 225 5232; website: www.angelikafilmcenter.com). Several films have been filmed in Houston, many using its link with space travel as a theme. These include Armageddon (1998), directed by Michael Bay, and Apollo 13 (1995), directed by Ron Howard. Terms of Endearment (1983), directed by James L Brooks, and Robocop II (1990), directed by Irvin Kershner, were also filmed in Houston. Cultural events: The Fourth of July celebrations draw thousands of Houstonians to the Miller Outdoor Theatre in Hermann Park, for the ever-popular rendition of classical favourites that culminates in a spectacular firework display. For one weekend in August each year, the annual Houston International Jazz Festival transforms the city into a mini New Orleans, with performances from national and international stars in front of the City Hall. The free performances of Shakespeare’s plays at the Miller Outdoor Theatre, during the annual Houston Shakespeare Festival in August, are a real crowd pleaser. Literary Notes For a city its size, Houston does not have any leading literary authors –a recently compiled list of 200 prominent Houstonians highlights this absence. Interestingly enough, for a city that has a rather hard-nosed commercial feel to it, having grown up on the strength of the oil business, Houston is the home to the Romance Writers of America. The city is the base for many bestselling historical romance authors, including Barbara Dawson Smith, Christina Dodd and Judith McNaught, who each have millions of fans worldwide. Dawson Smith’s books, such as Once Upon A Scandal (1997), are mainly historical romance set in 19th-century Britain. Dodd is a prolific writer whose titles – such as A Well-Favoured Gentleman (1998) and A Well-Pleasured Lady (1997) – hint at the nature of her romances. McNaught’s work tends towards the romantic suspense style, with her most recent bestsellers being Night Whispers (1998) and Water’s Edge (1998). The endless list of romance writers in Houston is evidence of a softer side to a city long associated with oil barons and astronauts. Nightlife Downtown Houston is a vibrant area that is buzzing day and night with restaurants, bars, clubs, cinemas and theatres. Richmond Avenue – on the west side of the city adjacent to the Galleria – is a fun place to be. Many bars and clubs generally charge around US$10 and drinks cost US$3-5. Smart dress is expected in most of the clubs and bars, although venues that are more like pubs are fairly casual. Bars are generally open from lunchtime until 0200 in the morning. The minimum drinking age is 21 years. The free city listings paper, The Houston Press, is published on Thursdays and has an extensive list of which bars and clubs to go to and what’s on where. Bars: La Carafe, 813 Congress Street, is a friendly neighbourhood bar, while the Brewery Tap, Franklin Street, boasts 36 kinds of beer on tap. The State Bar, Texas Street, is a popular place for a drink, while The Ginger Man, Morningside Drive, has a very relaxed atmosphere and a good selection of beers from around the world. Every city has an Irish bar and Houston is no exception – Celtic vibes are enjoyed at Slainte Irish Pub, on Main Street. Casinos: These are not permitted in Texas – the nearest ones are in New Orleans. Clubs: Retro disco is alive and well at Polly Esther’s, Richmond Avenue. Along the same street is the Outback Pub, a popular spot for rock ‘n’ roll. A popular Latino club is Elvia’s Cantina Club, on Fondren, which has a live salsa band every night. There are a number of dance halls in the Houston area, including Wild West, 6101 Richmond Avenue, which attracts a young crowd. Four clubs in one venue, City Streets, Richmond Avenue, comes complete with disco, country and western music, a piano bar and karaoke room. Live music: McGonigel’s Mucky Duck, on Norfolk Street near Shepherd Drive, is one of the best venue for acoustic music and features a variety of folk acts. The Mercury Room, Prairie Street, is rather upmarket with a wide selection of live music. Jazz lovers are drawn to the Sambuca Jazz Café, Texas Avenue, while dance music and great views of the city can be enjoyed from the top floor of the Sky Bar, on Montrose Boulevard at Hawthorne. Bayou Blues, in the Bayou Place entertainment complex on Smith and Texas Avenue, features live blues music, which is very popular in Downtown Houston. City Statistics Location: Harris County, Texas. Country dialling code: 1. Population: 1.9 million (city); 4.3 million (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: 54% white, 23% Hispanic, 19% African American, 4% Asian. Religion: Majority Baptist and Catholic, minorities include Protestant, Hindu, Muslim, Methodist, Presbyterian, Jewish and Episcopalian. Time zone: GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from first Sunday in April to Saturday before second Sunday in October). Electricity: 110/120 volts AC, 60Hz; American-style flat two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: 10°C (50°F). Average July temp: 26°C (79°F). Annual rainfall: 884mm (34.8 inches). Special Events Compaq Houston Marathon, Jan, starting from and finishing at the George R Brown Convention Center Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo, world’s largest livestock show, rodeo and horse show, mid-Feb-early Mar, Astrodome Houston Children’s Festival, Houston’s official family celebration with games, activities and adventure zones, Mar, Downtown WorldFest: Houston International Film Festival, Apr, throughout the city Houston International Festival, performing and visual arts festival, late Apr, over 20 blocks Downtown Power of Freedom Festival, live entertainment, food stalls and a huge firework display, 4 Jul, Sam Houston Park and Bayou Park Fourth of July, classical music culminating in a fireworks display, 4 Jul, Hermann Park Houston International Jazz Festival, early Aug, Miller Outdoor Theatre, Hermann Park Fiestas Patrias, street parade celebrating Mexico’s independence from Spain, 21 Sep, Downtown Texaco-Havoline Grand Prix, Oct, course around Downtown Wings Over Houston, air show, mid-Oct, Ellington Field International Quilt Festival, antique and contemporary quilts on display, late Oct-early Nov, George R Brown Convention Center Thanksgiving Day Parade, parade with floats and marching bands, 4th Thurs in Nov, through Downtown Uptown Tree Lighting, tree lighting ceremony, end Nov, Galleria Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$2 33cl bottle of beer: US$1.50 Houston Chronicle newspaper: US$0.50 36-exposure colour film: US$3 City-centre bus ticket: US$1 Adult university American football ticket: US$30-40 Three-course meal with wine/beer: US$35 1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.63; C$1.51; A$1.67; €0.93 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.