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_City Overview ‘There’s a train that comes from Namibia and Malawi. There’s a train that comes from Zambia and Zimbabwe. There’s a train that comes from Angola and Mozambique – from Lesotho from Botswana from Swaziland.’ These lines are from Hugh Masekela’s quintessential anthem, Stimela (steam engine), which profoundly captures the essence of the millions of migrant labourers who, since 4 October 1886 – when the first claims were laid out – have mined the gold that built the economy of Johannesburg and South Africa. The city today has progressed far beyond the status of a mere gold rush settlement, becoming a vibrant, violent and unpredictable place, where fortunes as well as lives can be lost and found like a small child’s toys. In Zulu, Johannesburg is called E’goli (place of gold), an epithet no longer quite fitting, as the last of Johannesburg’s mines ran out of gold-bearing ore decades ago. The towering yellow mine dumps, once the city’s prime icons that dominated old postcards, have largely been recycled. New commercial, retail and industrial districts have risen to replace these 40-million-ton yellow-white mounds. In ancient cities, one may be able to find a sense of permanence within the walls of a formidable fortress but Johannesburg is a city in flux, a place where change is the only enduring feature. Sub-Saharan Africa’s greatest and – at over 2500sq kilometres (900sq miles) – the world’s largest inland city, Johannesburg straddles rows of jagged quartzite ridges, beneath which a century of gold mining has produced a veritable honeycomb of tunnels. Technology may have claimed the mine sands but millions of trees have risen from the sprawling suburbs – on satellite images, much of Johannesburg resembles a rainforest – an unexpected backdrop to a formidable array of Victorian and Edwardian architecture, as well as concrete, chrome and glass skyscrapers. Makeshift shacks of scrap, reflected in the glossy glass façade of the old Johannesburg Stock Exchange building on Diagonal Street, bear testimony to the chasm between the fantastically wealthy and the desperately poor that still divides this city. Situated 550km (344 miles) from the nearest port, on a vast inland plateau, 1700m (5700ft) high, Johannesburg’s climate is much milder and drier than its latitude would suggest and is also free of malaria – a disease that plagues much of the rest of Africa. Crime may have become synonymous with Johannesburg in the minds of many people, however, the green and yellow uniforms of the Central Improvement District (CID) security guards are a new, comforting feature on almost every street corner in targeted areas. Josi, Jo’burg or Joeys to the locals, this is a city undergoing dramatic changes. Black people, formerly excluded from living (legally) outside of townships, such as Soweto, are moving into the downtown and inner-city areas, while formerly privileged (white) citizens are migrating outwards, due to increasing crime, squalor and perhaps some reluctance to live side by side the newly enfranchised majority. Paradoxically, almost all of the old apartheid-era street names, such as Barry Hertzog Avenue and Hendrick Verwoerd Drive – named after the architects of this ‘crime against humanity’ – still survive. However, plans are afoot to change this (DF Malan Drive was recently renamed Beyers Naude Drive, after the dissident anti-apartheid cleric), so visitors should be warned that some of the street addresses in this guide could soon be obsolete. Getting There By Air Johannesburg International Airport (JNB) Tel: (011) 921 6262. Website: www.airports.co.za Handling ten million passengers every year, Johannesburg International (formerly Jan Smuts) is Africa’s busiest (many say best) airport. The Airports Company (ACSA) has invested R1.16 billion in upgrading facilities since 1993 – this figure will reach R3 billion when the project reaches completion in 2006. Situated 19km (12 miles) east of the city centre, a total of 51 international airline operators use JNB’s facilities on a regular basis, with flights to and from over 60 cities in 50 countries. Major airlines: National airline South African Airways – SAA (tel: (011) 978 1000; website: www.saa.co.za) connects JNB to all of South Africa’s major towns and cities, as well as to the capital cities of all of southern Africa’s countries and other international destinations. Other major carriers that operate from JNB include Air France, Alitalia, American Airlines, Austrian Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific Airways, Egypt Air, El-Al, KLM, Kulula.com, Lufthansa, Malaysian Airlines, Moscow Airways, Olympic Airways, Qantas Airways, Singapore Airlines, and Virgin Atlantic. Approximate flight times to Johannesburg: From London is 10 hours 50 minutes; from New York (via London) is 17 hours 45 minutes; from Los Angeles (via London) is 21 hours 10 minutes; from Toronto (via London) is 17 hours 55 minutes and from Sydney (via Perth) is 17 hours. Airport facilities: These include 24-hour help phones, mobile-phone rental, a 24-hour food hall, bureaux de change, a 24-hour telephone centre, banks, ATMs, travel agent, tourist information, left-luggage, car hire (Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, Imperial and Tempest), duty free, shops, restaurants, bars, a chapel, Muslim prayer rooms, 45-room transit hotel and an emergency medical clinic. Business facilities: There is a business centre (tel: (011) 390 1330), which contains a ten-room conference centre, a media conference room, mobile-phone rental and VIP facilities. Arrival/departure tax: Included in the price of the ticket. Transport to the city: For central city destinations, Impala (tel: (011) 975 0510) runs buses daily (0615-2030), departing every 45 minutes for the Park City train and coach terminus in Braamfontein, near the city centre. For north city destinations, the bus operates services to the Midrand Terminus, according to a similar schedule. Except during rush hours (0700-0900 and 1600-1800), when there can be serious delays, the trip takes about 40 minutes. Tickets (R60 one way) can be booked from the company’s desk near the International Arrivals exit. For less central destinations, there are shuttle buses – such as the Magic Bus (tel: (011) 328 8092), Airport Link (tel: (011) 792 2017), Welcome Tours (tel: (011) 442 8905) and TTC (tel: (011) 447 1052) – that charge around R400 for a door-to-door transfer. Taking a taxi from the airport may be quicker than the bus or shuttle but visitors should make sure the driver knows exactly where to go before setting off. Taxis that are airport approved will display a green, yellow and white sticker. A taxi will cost at least R200-300 for anywhere within Johannesburg and the fare should be agreed upon before boarding. Getting There By Road South Africa has by far the best-maintained and most extensive network of road transport infrastructure in Africa. National roads (designated by an ‘N’) link all of South Africa’s major cities to Johannesburg, while major routes (designated by an ‘R’) connect Johannesburg to most other areas. The generally high standard of roads means that almost anywhere in South Africa is accessible, without the need for a four-wheel-drive vehicle. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. All those without a South African licence must carry an International Driving Permit. Third party insurance is included in the price of the fuel. By law, both driver and passenger must wear their seatbelts (if fitted) or face an on-the-spot fine of R200. Random breath tests can be imposed and the penalties for drink driving are severe – the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.08%. Driving through a red light costs R500. Driving is on the left, with the general speed limit being 60kph (37mph) in ‘built-up’ (suburban and city) areas and 100kph (62mph) on the ‘open road’ (rural areas). The speed limit on most national roads is 120kph (75mph) unless otherwise indicated and it is illegal to stop (other than for emergencies) on or adjacent to these roads. Speeding fines vary (camera traps are very common) but are generally around R10 per kilometre over the limit. All national roads are tolled but most have a signposted ‘Alternative Route,’ which is not tolled, usually slower, has less service, fuel and rescue facilities but is often far more scenic and interesting. There are 24-hour service stations (called garages in South Africa) with convenience stores at regular intervals along all major routes, however, it should be noted that credit cards cannot be used for fuel purchases. Toll fees on the tolled routes between Johannesburg and Cape Town are R85, to Durban R76, to Messina (Zimbabwe border) R52 and to Komatipoort (Mozambique border) R68.50. The Automobile Association of South Africa – AA (tel: (011) 799 1000; fax: (011) 799 1010; website: www.aasa.co.za) provides excellent maps, invaluable roadside medical rescue, technical assistance and advice (car hire, insurance, road conditions and recommended routes). The AA can also provide further information on driving in South Africa. Emergency breakdown service: AA (080) 001 0101 (toll free) Routes to the city: The north–south road artery of South Africa, the N1, links Johannesburg to Cape Town, Bloemfontein, Pietersburg, Louis Trichard, Messina and Zimbabwe, while the N3 provides access to Harrismith, Pietermaritzberg, Durban and the route toward Sun City (R512), and the N2 links coastal towns between Durban and Cape Town. The N4 Trans-Kalahari Highway runs west to Zeerust and on through Botswana and Namibia to the Atlantic Ocean, while the N4 Maputo Corridor runs east to Witbank, Middleberg and Nelspruit, on to Maputo in Mozambique, on the Indian Ocean. The Kruger National Park can be reached by taking the R40 off the N4, which then connects to the R536 toward Skukuza and the Paul Kruger Gate. Driving times to Johannesburg: From Sun City – 2 hours 45 minutes; Kruger Park (Skukuza) – 5 hours 30 minutes; Durban – 6 hours 15 minutes; Cape Town – 14 hours 30 minutes. Coach services: Coaches to South Africa’s main towns and cities, as well as to neighbouring countries, depart from the coach terminus at Park City (see the Rail section). Greyhound (tel: (011) 830 1301; website: www.greyhound.co.za) and Translux (tel: (011) 774 3333; website: www.translux.co.za) are the service providers and have ticket offices there. Getting There By Rail Formerly South African Railways, Spoornet (tel: (011) 773 2992; website: www.spoornet.co.za) is the national rail provider. Metrorail (tel: (011) 773 5878 or (0800) 127 070; website: www.tnet.co.za) is the suburban train service provider. Park Station, 25 Leyds Street, Braamfontein (tel: (011) 773 5878), Johannesburg’s main station, is situated in the Park City suburban and mainline rail and coach terminus, one kilometre (0.5 miles) from the centre of town. Facilities include ATMs, banks, a restaurant, bookshop, travel information, car hire, left-luggage and transit centre. Spoornet’s nationwide reservations and enquiry service is called Shosholoza Mail and the ‘sharecall’ number (tel: (0890) 008 888) is open to callers daily 0800-1600. Rail services: Johannesburg’s Park Station is a terminus for all Spoornet regional and Metrorail suburban routes, allowing for daily albeit fairly slow links to many parts of greater Johannesburg (including Soweto) and the rest of South Africa. Metrorail trains (platforms 1-11) run to Naledi (Soweto), Pretoria, Vereeniging, Springs, Randfontein, Carltonville and Oberholzer and stations en-route. The mainline routes (platforms 13-20) have four classes. Premiere and First Class is recommended for tourists, as second and third are generally fully booked well in advance and travellers can experience problems with overcrowding and theft. Premier and First-Class compartments sleep two in double bunks, which convert to benches for day travel. Bedding is provided at R20 extra. Trains also have restaurant carriages. The Transkaroo Express to Cape Town departs daily at 1230 (journey time – 24 hours) and costs R390. The Transnatal Express to Durban departs daily at 1830 (journey time – 14 hours) and costs R195. The Algoa Express trains to Port Elizabeth depart daily at 1245 (journey time – 20 hours 45 minutes) and cost R290. There are no trains direct to neighbouring countries but the Komati Express runs via Nelspruit to Komatipoort on the Mozambique border, from where minibuses run to Maputo. Shosholoza Meyl is a new service, offering travellers the opportunity to charter an entire train on normal domestic routes. Transport to the city: Although the station is extremely central, it is an area where muggings of tourists are common – visitors are advised to use the metered taxis or shuttle buses available from the transit centre. Getting Around Public Transport With a fleet of new buses, Metropolitan Bus Services (tel: (011) 403 4300; website: www.johannesburg.org.za) offers a scheduled bus service covering 108 routes within the Greater Johannesburg Metropolitan area. The service runs 0600-1900 and is less convenient than the forms of taxi transport but probably safer – although visitors should not travel on an empty bus, due to the high frequency of mugging. Fares work on a zonal system centring on Ghandi Square (formerly Vanderbijl Square) bus terminus, corner of Main and Rissik Streets, with zone one (single fare R2) closest and zone six (single fare R7) farthest. No bus passes are currently available. Tickets can be bought on the bus from the driver or ten-trip ‘clipcards’ can be bought from kiosks at Ghandi Square bus terminus. A fine of R200 can be imposed on anyone not in possession of a valid ticket. Taxis The quickest (but not necessarily safest) way to get around Johannesburg is on one of the minibus taxis (sometimes called Zola Budds), which depart when full, pick up anywhere (simply hold up an arm with raised index finger) and serve the main routes 0500-2100. The main minibus ranks are at the Newtown public car park, along the length of Noord Street between Twist and Claim Streets, and at Kazerne, on the corner of Sauer and Pim Streets. Visitors should note that taxi ranks are plagued by petty thievery and should use a metered taxi if encumbered with baggage. The fare from central Johannesburg to Sandton or Soweto is around R5 – closer destinations, such as Melville and Bruma Lake, cost between R2 and R4. There are no passes or pre-paid tickets available for minibus taxis. Metered taxis are infinitely more expensive but far safer and more convenient than minibuses. They do not cruise the streets and apart from at major hotels and the airport, where they are usually waiting at an official rank, can only be telephoned for pickup. Visitors must ensure that the controller (on the telephone) and the driver state the fare before allowing any luggage to be loaded. The meter rate is generally around R4-6 per kilometre, however, this is not properly regulated so all fares should be confirmed with the driver in advance. Unlike locals, foreigners often tip, and, although it is not expected, a R10-20 tip is appreciated. Visitors should avoid all men offering rides in their ‘taxis’, as these are likely to be unregistered, illegal and unroadworthy. Rose Radio Taxis (tel: (011) 403 9625; fax: (011) 403 9896) are well established and have a reputation for reliability. Alternatively, Maxi Taxi Cabs (tel: (011) 648 1212; fax: (011) 648 8581) are also recommended. Limousines Ambassador Limousines (tel: (011) 886 7313; fax: (011) 886 7339; e-mail: ambassadorlimos@hotmail.com) offers limousines, starting at R350 per hour (minimum three hours). SALimousines (tel: (011) 614 4581; fax: (011) 614 7617) and VIPLimo (tel: (082) 903 0888; fax: (011) 615 3506; e-mail: vip@mweb.co.za) hire limousines at R550 for the first hour and R250 per hour thereafter. Driving in the City Johannesburg’s rise fairly closely parallels that of the automobile and this has allowed successive city planners to cater very well for the needs of private motorists. The network of roads and highways is excellent and well maintained and, apart from in the CBD, parking facilities are usually more than adequate. There is secure pay parking (R3-5 per hour) at Park City (24hrs) and at the Kazerne Municipal Parking Garage (0600-1800), entered from Simmonds. Visitors using street parking will come across an extremely common practice, where children and adults hang around the area and expect a tip of about R2 for ‘guarding’ people’s cars – it is advisable to pay up as ‘not guarding’ the car may actually mean damaging it! Traffic congestion is generally limited to the rush-hour periods of 0700-0900 and 1600-1800. At other times, most locations within the city can be reached in well under an hour. The main road hazards are poor driving (especially by minibus taxi drivers), a lack of visible traffic policing and the constant threat of attack by smash-and-grab thieves and armed hijackers. Visitors should never stop for hitchhikers or at accident scenes and always keep their doors locked and windows up. After dark, many motorists also (illegally) ignore red traffic lights (when in isolated or deserted areas, such as highway exits or intersections adjacent to parks), for safety reasons. Car Hire The car hire companies with a reputation for reliability (although not necessarily for low prices) are Avis and Imperial. Avis (tel: (011) 884 2221; website: www.avis.co.za) has a branch in Sandton, 167A Rivonia Road, Morningside, with rates starting from R220 per day. Imperial’s Sandton branch (tel: (011) 784 1452; website: www.imperial.ih.co.za), Rivonia Boulevard, Rivonia Road, Morningside, offers rates from R173 per day. A cheaper option for travellers may be Apex (tel: (011) 402 5150; fax: (011) 402 0655), otherwise known as Rent-A-Wreck, with branches at various locations. Apex rates are from R40 per day, R300 weekly (excluding kilometre charge). All the above rates exclude insurance and other charges. Optional insurance is provided by the car hire agencies and is highly recommended, particularly against theft. All car hire companies require drivers to be at least 23 years old and to have been driving for a minimum of five years. A passport, credit card and International Driving Permit (IDP) will be required. Bicycle Hire Johannesburg’s town planners have made absolutely no provision for bicycle in their grand schemes and consequently many motorists do not view cyclists as being legitimate users of the road. It therefore comes as no surprise that no one hires out bicycles in the city. Business Business Profile Despite the continuing negative influences of the apartheid economic policies of the past, a high crime rate, a low gold price and soaring oil prices, South Africa still has the strongest economy on the African continent. Gauteng Province, of which Johannesburg is the capital city, contributes over 40% of South Africa’s GDP (Gross Domestic Product), while covering only 7% of its surface area. A sophisticated ‘first-world’ economy is epitomised by the JSE (Johannesburg Stock Exchange – recently renamed Johannesburg Securities Exchange), which is the tenth richest in the world. A struggling third-world economy, however, coexists alongside, as exemplified by large squatter-settlements in the city. Unemployment in Johannesburg is 30% up from 27% three years ago. Some 116,827 families live in shack settlements, while some 108,000 families live in illegal backyard shacks. There are 4500 homeless people in Johannesburg. Unemployment rates are still lower than the national average, which has risen from 36.3% in 1999 to 37.3% in 2000. Johannesburg is South Africa’s centre for all rail and road connections – it also has the main container terminal at Kaserne and the busiest international airport. Greater Johannesburg and its surrounding areas attract approximately 76% of foreigners visiting South Africa from the rest of Africa and 60% of these visit Johannesburg primarily to shop and look for entrepreneurial opportunities, over and above leisure pursuits. Johannesburg is the economic epicentre of the country and the government has recognised that in order to attract domestic and foreign investment, it must necessarily be a clean, functioning city. Much of downtown Johannesburg has been victim of capital flight to the (perceived) safer, less-congested and cleaner suburbs and satellite towns, such as Sandton and Midrand. Symptomatic of this growing inner-city decay is the fact that the JSE has recently followed the path of many major corporations, by migrating from the CBD to Sandton, ten kilometres (six miles) north. Efforts are being made to attract investment back into the city centre and national rail provider Spoornet’s relocation here already indicates a degree of success. A programme labelled ‘iGoli 2002,’ which aims to once more make the CBD secure and attractive to tourist and businesspeople alike, has been instituted. Managers are being put on performance contracts, while workers are being transferred to new, private enterprises that will run the various municipal services along business lines. This is being vehemently opposed by Unions, such as SAMWU (SA Municipal Workers Union), which has rejected the restructuring due to the large number of jobs that will be lost. Black Economic Empowerment and Affirmative Action are still contentious issues, both in the political and business arenas. Business is still largely dominated by white people, however, there are a number of black-controlled groups on the JSE and several JSE stockbroker firms are black-owned. Major black empowerment acquisitions include JCI and Johnnic (from Anglo American) and Zenex Oil (from the Zenex Trust). Many companies have well designed programmes of Affirmative Action, designed to correct the inequities of the past and accelerate the development of historically disadvantaged employees. However, others make ‘politically correct’ affirmative action appointments, which are very well paid but often protected from real decision-making. Through its GEAR (growth, employment and redistribution) policy, the South African government has shown its commitment to privatisation, free trade and the fostering of a favourable investment climate. The mining (Anglo American has its African head office in Johannesburg) and heavy industry (Iscor Vanderbijlpark, AECI) sectors are fast being eclipsed by financial services (Johannesburg Stock Exchange, First National, ABSA, Barclays, Western Union and Standard banks), telecommunications (Telkom, Vodacom, MTN), retailing (Pick’n’Pay/Wooltru Holdings) and technology (IBM, PQ Holdings, Dimension Data). The tourism sector’s contribution to the GDP of South Africa (presently around 11%) continues to be undermined by crime. During March 2000, figures show that a total of 464,745 foreign travellers visited South Africa (80% via Johannesburg International), down 5% from the 1999 figure. Probably the best way for one to become familiar with business practice and opportunity in Johannesburg is to contact the Johannesburg Chamber of Commerce (founded in 1890) and Industry (JCCI). Their website (www.jcci.co.za) is reliable, authoritative and informative. Links to Johannesburg’s top ten corporations can be found online (website: www.corporateinformation.com/zacorp), while the City of Johannesburg also publishes its procurement needs online (website: www.joburg.org.za). Business Etiquette The South African population is characterised by diverse heterogeneity. This is nowhere more evident than in cosmopolitan Johannesburg, where some areas have the feel of a large European city, while other parts are unmistakably third-world Africa. South Africa has 11 official languages, although English is the most widely used language in government (both national and provincial) and commerce. Normal business hours are 0800-1700, although not much happens after 1500 on Fridays. Although South African business people have, in the past, been considered to be quite conservative and formal in both demeanour and dress, the influence of newly empowered black entrepreneurs has introduced a business culture that is more friendly, informal and relaxed. Businessmen and woman in Johannesburg tend to wear suits, although ethnic outfits are increasingly evident. It can, however, become very hot during summer and bitterly cold during winter in this part of South Africa, so this should be taken into account – lightweight materials in the warm months (October-April) and heavy overcoats for the cold period (May-September). Punctuality is still highly prized and it is advisable to address hosts as ‘Mr’ or ‘Ms’ until requested to use first names, which usually happens soon after formal greetings are dispensed with. The triple handshake is common among black businesspeople, although, even in these situations, the standard handshake may well take precedence with an international visitor. Gifts are not expected in either business or social situations. Business cards are often exchanged where businesspeople meet informally, such as in hotel lobbies, airport lounges and at product launches. Most initial business-related social contact is along the lines of ‘let’s do lunch,’ while dinner and breakfast appointments are far less frequent. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Unlike other South African cities – such as Cape Town, with its world-famous Table Mountain, and Durban, with its dramatic beachfront parade of towering hotels – Johannesburg has no obvious single feature to distinguish it from many other drab and sprawling inland cities. The 30-minute drive from the really quite impressive and efficiently managed Johannesburg International Airport serves as a good introduction to this city. From here, a six-lane highway (the R24 and N12) carves a path first through a high-tech industrial and commercial district, then through leafy, upper-income suburbia, passing between Eastgate Shopping Centre (arguably Africa’s largest) and Bruma Lake Market World (self-proclaimed ‘Africa’s Biggest’), before entering Hillbrow, a gangster and vagrant-riddled high-rise flatland, home to 42 different nationalities from Africa alone. This introduction might initially suggest that Johannesburg is an intimidating and risky place. However, it belies the fact that areas and sites – such as shaking Soweto, grandiose Gold Reef City Theme Park and Casino, mellow Melville Village, tranquil Johannesburg Zoological Gardens and Military History Museum, and the unusual Newtown Cultural Precinct, among others – reveal a side to the city’s multi-faceted character that is tourist-friendly, fascinating and relatively safe. Tourist Information Gauteng Tourism Authority (previously Tourism Johannesburg) Rosebank Mall, Upper Level, corner Baker and Cradock Streets Tel: (011) 340 9000. Fax: (011) 327 7000. E-mail: tourism@gauteng.net Website: www.gauteng.net Opening hours: Daily 0830-1700. There is also a tourist information kiosk in the main concourse at Park Station, which is open at the same hours. Passes There are no tourist passes currently available in Johannesburg. Key Attractions Lesedi Cultural Experience Lesedi is a Sotho word that means ‘light’ – the nickname for the founder of the Basotho nation (Lesotho), King Moshoeshoe. The two-and-a-half-hour experience includes displays of authentic indigenous dancing, recreated Zulu, Ndebele, Sotho, Xhosa and Pedi villages, a restaurant serving local (the famous ‘nyama Choma) and international cuisine, a fully equipped conference centre and en-suite guest cottages. Broederstroom, on the R512 Tel: (012) 205 1394 or (0800) 119 000, toll free. Fax: (012) 205 1433. E-mail: marketing@lesedi.com Website: www.lesedi.com Transport: By car, along the M1 north and then west (towards Roodepoort) onto the N1 at the Woodmead interchange. At the Lanseria off-ramp, along the R512 north (Hans Strydom Drive), 50km (31 miles) along the scenic R512 – Lesedi is clearly marked on the left-hand side of the road. Opening hours: Daily (1130) and evening (1630) shows, or by arrangement. Admission: R380. Soweto For decades, in the forefront of a struggle against the tyrannical regime that sanctioned white supremacy, Soweto’s two million residents made their home famous as a living symbol of victory over oppression. Nelson Mandela, one of the icons of the late 20th century, lived in Soweto (an acronym for South-Western Townships) before he was sentenced to 27 years in jail, for treason, by the former apartheid government. Just to get a feel for the environment that created this great man is reason enough to visit Soweto (website: www.sowetosa.co.za). Officially within the municipal boundaries of ‘greater’ Johannesburg, an extensive mine-waste dumping area and a busy concrete highway separate Soweto from the city limits. An intimidating sprawl of thousands of rows of tiny two-roomed council houses, grim-looking dormitory-style mine-worker hostels and ostentatious mansions, this township was originally only intended to provide temporary shelter for contract mine-workers toiling underground in the once fabulously rich Witwatersrand gold fields. Visitors wishing to see where South Africa’s peaceful revolution was conceived, born and nurtured will be struck both by the lack of formal tourist facilities and the fact that the strikingly barren surroundings are juxtaposed against such lively, friendly and characterful people. Due the absence of street signs and dangerous public transport options, Soweto’s labyrinth is best discovered in the company of one of the many good tour operators that offer what have been called the ‘Heritage Route’ or ‘Shebeen Crawl’ tours. The Heritage Route includes the Hector Peterson Memorial, former residences of Nobel Peace Prize-winners Nelson Mandela and Bishop Desmond Tutu, Regina Mundi Church, Freedom Square, Avalon Cemetery, Chris Hani Baragwanath Hospital, Winnie Madikizela-Mandela’s house, Morris Isaacson School (where the 1976 student uprising started) and Credo Mutwa Village. The 13-year-old boy, Hector, was one of the first of hundreds of people shot by police during the dramatic 16 June 1976 uprising. His memorial includes a poignant and powerful photograph taken by veteran journalist Peter Magubane of Hector’s body being carried through Soweto’s chaotic streets. The Regina Mundi Catholic Church, a venue for hundreds of protest meetings, still has the bullet holes left by police who often used violence to disperse gatherings. Ma Africa Galleries in a room off the hall offers paintings of township scenes. Located in Kliptown and the oldest part of Soweto, Freedom Square is at the site where the Freedom Charter was presented to a mass gathering of the people. South African Communist Party leader, Joe Slovo, who died of cancer in 1995, became the first white person to be buried in the Avalon Cemetery. At the time of his assassination in 1993, Hani’s stature was second only to Mandela’s, so it is fitting that the world’s largest hospital has been renamed after him. Built by Nelson Mandela for his estranged wife soon after his release from prison in 1990, Winnie Madikizela-Mandela’s mansion is still occupied by the former president’s ex wife, who continues to enjoy high stature in Soweto. A student and practitioner of traditional African rites and religions, Credo Mutwa’s mysticism is reflected in his sculptures, paintings and writings on display at Credo Mutwa Village. The Shebeen Crawl is geared more toward the entertainment aspect of the township. Irish miners may have introduced the word to South Africa but shebeens (also called taverns and formerly outlawed by the apartheid regime) have become synonymous with the rich and often raucous social life of Sowetans. They range from a few stools in front of a simple shack to stylish, flashy and fully-fledged nightclubs. While some of the Soweto shebeens may have adjusted their menus and prices in response to an influx of tourists, the same cannot be said of Wandi’s Place (Dube). It serves traditional dishes, such as umngqusho (stamped corn and bean stew), morogo (wild spinach) and that evergreen Soweto favourite, chakalaka (chilli and bean salad). Former proprietor of the Blue Fountain Saloon Godfrey Moloi – self-styled ‘Godfather of Soweto’ – died recently but his generous, flamboyant spirit lives on in what he referred to as ‘The warm heart of Soweto.’ African dishes, buffets and set menus are available. The famous ‘wall of fame’ is a mural depicting liberation struggle heroes, signed by famous visitors. Tebogo calls his trendy tavern, The Rock, ‘New York in Soweto’ and this is where the upwardly mobile young black professionals ‘hang’ – food is traditional and contemporary African. people come to Vardo’s Place to watch soccer – South Africa’s favourite sport – on one of the many screens and listen to music with an African Beat. Early shebeens were all in one of the typical two-room Soweto homes and at Pinky’s Place drinks are still served in the lounge and dining room. At D.J’s Place, one of Soweto’s oldest restaurant/shebeens, beer is still served by the quart, while Pallazo di Stella, currently Soweto’s only live jazz club, is also its first Pizza restaurant. Tours of Soweto can be arranged through Jimmy’s Face-to-Face Tours (tel: (011) 331 6109; website: www.face2face.co.za) or Imbizo Tours (tel: (011) 838 2667; e-mail: imbizo@iafrica.com) and cost from R300 to R600. Soweto (South Western Townships), 15 minutes west of central Johannesburg E-mail: webmaster@sowetosa.co.za Website: www.sowetosa.co.za Transport: Main Reef Road. Gold Reef City Theme Park and Casino Originally conceived as a likeness of downtown Johannesburg circa 1890, during the gold rush, Gold Reef City’s museums and curiosity shops – housed in replicas of the original Victorian and Edwardian buildings – have now been eclipsed by the ‘largest rollercoaster in the Southern Hemisphere’ and a 60-table casino. This does not, however, detract from the fact that, for a fairly authentic glimpse into Johannesburg’s fascinating past, Gold Reef City is still the best place to go. Gold-Reef City’s real charm is that (literally) underneath all the theme-park veneer, there lies a labyrinth of tunnels, built around Number 14 Shaft of the original gold mine that operated from 1887 to 1971. Depending on bookings, there are usually several tours down a mine where workers from all over southern Africa quite recently sweated, toiled and died. Add to this, 14 museums, many craft and curio shops, daily displays of traditional gum-boot and can-can dancing and the casino, which includes the 300-seat Globe Theatre (website: www.soundstage.co.za) and the result is an extraordinary mix that simultaneously provides entertainment and insight. The minutely detailed and fascinating model of the surface and subterranean installations of a gold mine, which follows the process from shaft-sinking to gold-bar production, is one of the highlights. As is the daily pouring of a gold bar – popular legend has it that anyone who can pick it up with one hand can take it home with them. Gold Reef City, eight kilometres (five miles) from city centre Tel: (011) 248 6800. E-mail: gold@goldreefcity.co.za Website: www.goldreefcity.co.za Transport: Metro bus 55a, 55b or 313 to Southgate from Ghandi Square; by car on the M1 South Freeway to the Booysens or Xavier Street exits. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1700. Admission: R30 weekdays; R45 weekends; children shorter than 1.2m (four feet) free. Newtown Cultural Precinct A few years ago, this area was degenerating into a derelict slum land dominated by the brooding, crumbling cooling towers and the cavernous turbine hall of Johannesburg’s first coal-fired power station. The general air of decay and neglect, symptomatic of many parts of the city’s CBD, is being addressed as part of the Johannesburg Metropolitan Council’s ‘iGoli 2000’ urban renewal strategy. The Newtown Precinct has undergone quite radical alterations, which include improvements and additions to long-standing attractions – such as the Market Theatre and the Oriental Plaza – as well as relative newcomers – such as MuseumAfrica, the Horror Café (café-theatre opposite the Electric Workshop) and the South African Breweries Centenary Centre (‘World of Beer’ museum, tavern, gallery and memento shop). The famous MuseumAfrica and Market Theatre are housed in a magnificent Victorian building, once the city’s major fresh-produce market, which had stall holders who were mainly of Indian origin who were moved to the nearby Oriental Plaza. The Plaza is an excellent place to savour Indian food or buy clothing and fabric at discount prices. MuseumAfrica, which incorporates the Bensusan Museum and Library of Photography, the Museum of South Africa Rock Art and the Bernberg Museum of Fashion, was conceived as South Africa’s first post-apartheid museum. It offers exhibits covering an eclectic range of themes, ranging from early man to the struggle against apartheid. This is possibly the best place in Johannesburg from which to contemplate the impact of colonialism. The Market Theatre Complex houses three theatres – Main Theatre, Laager Theatre and Barney Simon Theatre. The Market hosted much protest theatre during the struggle years and was the birthplace for such seminal works as Athol Fugard’s Sizwe Banzi is Dead (1973) and Mbongeni Ngema’s Sarafina (1988). It was here where John Kani (now the theatre director) and Winston Shona were first seen in Fugard’s Master Harold and the Boys (1982). It was also here that political satirist Pieter-Dirk Uys – in the persona of his drag alter ego, Evita Bezuidenhout – first performed anti-apartheid one-man shows to packed houses. Long reputed to be Johannesburg’s best jazz venue, Kippies – a converted Victorian toilet – still belts it out every weekend, just a few steps away from the entrance to the theatre. Newtown Cultural Precinct Transport: Metro bus 63 to Newlands or 66 to Sophiatown. MuseumAfrica 121 Bree Street Tel: (011) 833 5624. Website: www.museums.org.za Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Admission: R2. Market Theatre 121 Bree Street Tel: (011) 832 1641. Website: www.markettheatre.co.za Opening hours: Varies, depending on production. Admission: Varies, depending on production. SAB Centenary Centre 15 President Street Tel: (011) 836 4900. Website: www.sabcentenary.co.za Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1800. Admission: R10. Horror Café 15 Becker Street Tel: (011) 838 6735. Opening hours: Fri 2000 onwards. Admission: R20. Oriental Plaza Sixth Avenue, Fordsburg Tel: (011) 838 6572. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 0830-1500. Admission: Free. Johannesburg Zoological Gardens Apart from offering a peaceful and secure respite from the city’s busy streets and garish shopping malls, the Zoo provides a great opportunity for visitors to make sure they know the difference between leopards and cheetahs before going on safari – or just to ensure they do see the ‘big five’. The facilities (both for human and beast) are highly rated internationally – children and the disabled (electric buggies are available for R70 per hour) are particularly well catered for. Guided day, night and ‘behind the scenes’ tours can be arranged and the Zoo Ferry – pulled by a tractor – does regular rounds for a quick reconnoitre before exploring on foot. Highlights include the magnificent new lion enclosure and Max, the lowland gorilla (and his companion Lisa), who became a local crime-fighting hero a few years ago when he wrestled to the ground a burglar who mistakenly scaled the wall of his pen while fleeing police. Upper Park Road, Forest Town Tel: (011) 646 2000 or 486 0552, for organised tours). E-mail: zoo@mj.org.za Website: www.jhbzoo.org.za or www.gorillacam.co.za Transport: Metro bus 1 to Parktown North, 78 to Randburg Mall, 78a to Craighall or 79 to Parkhurst.Opening hours: Daily 0830-1730. Admission: R15. Military History Museum Located on the same block as the Zoo, this small but comprehensive museum covers most periods and armaments of South Africa’s military history. Displays include uniforms, tanks, artillery pieces (including the South-African-built G-6), small arms, 12 aircraft and a military submarine. However, there are disappointingly small sections on the anti-draft (End Conscription Campaign) movements and the participation of black people in the Anglo-Boer War, although CASSPIRS, the armoured personnel carriers used by security forces in the townships during black uprisings against apartheid, are on display. 20 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold Tel: (011) 646 5513. Website: www.militarymuseum.co.za Transport: Metro bus 1 to Parktown North, 78 to Randburg Mall, 78a to Craighall or 79 to Parkhurst. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1630. Admission: R5. Johannesburg Botanic Gardens and Emmarentia Dam Covering 148 hectares (365 acres) of highveld hillside rising up from the western shores of the Emmarentia Dam, this is one of the city’s most tranquil spots. The Dam has a yachting and canoeing club, while the gardens include a magnificent terraced rose garden (allegedly the world’s largest) set among ponds and water features with a classical theme. Although a park ranger is on duty, it is not advisable to wander into remote areas unless with a group. Picnics and braais (barbeques) are permitted at the spots provided and the shady restaurant does excellent tea and scones as well as light meals. Between Thomas Bowler, Olifants and Louw Geldenhuys Streets, Roosevelt Park Tel: (011) 782 0517. Website: www.johannesburg.org.za Transport: Metro bus 71 to Fairland, 74 to Blairgowrie or 81 to Randburg via Blairgowrie. Opening hours: Daily sunrise-sunset. Admission: Free. Melville Village Generally, the residents of Johannesburg’s upper-income northern suburbs only walk if their car has just been stolen, however, Melville is a quirky, pleasant exception. Just a short distance from Park City, the suburb’s neighbourly atmosphere is mainly due to its chaotic mix of residential and commercial property, which sometimes intermingle to a point where one may find oneself mistakenly settling down in a private home and wondering where the waitress has got to. The main streets, especially Bohemian Seventh Street (the setting and title of a local TV drama), are worth wandering along, delving into the second-hand bookshops, antique dealers and body-piercing salons, or sitting in the pavement cafés to people-watch. Many of Melville’s nicest homes, some of which date back to the 19th century, have been converted into charming B&Bs and guest houses, which are increasingly popular with foreign travellers. The Melville Koppies Nature Reserve, just north of the suburb, protects an extensive area of typical highveld vegetation and includes archaeological remains of both Stone and Iron Age settlements, including iron furnaces. Melville, northern suburbs Tel: (011) 726 5634. Fax: (011) 482 4769. Website: www.virtualmelville.co.za Transport: Metro bus 67 to Melville, 66 to Sophiatown or 71 to Fairland. Melville Koppies Nature Reserve North Melville Tel: (011) 782 7064. Website: www.veld.org.za/melville/melville.htm Opening hours: Third Sun of every month (Sep-May). Admission: Free. Further Distractions Sophiatown Despite the tyranny of apartheid legislation – such as the Group Areas Act that, in 1948, banished black people to townships and homelands – some parts of Johannesburg remained gloriously mixed-race until the early 1960s. One such suburb was Sophiatown, which was bulldozed by the authorities and cynically renamed Triomf (Afrikaans for ‘triumph’). Sophiatown, which recently received its name back, not only produced such singing legends as Dorothy Masuka, Sophie Mcina and Abigail Kubeka but also inspired a world-famous musical (called Sophiatown) and is still remembered 40 years after its destruction with great passion. The Toby Road home of Dr Alfred Bitini Xuma (who died in 1962), President General of the ANC in the 1940s, is now a National Monument. Christ the King, 47 Ray Street, the tiny, beloved church of late anti-apartheid stalwart Archbishop Trevor Huddleston, and St Joseph’s Home for Children, corner of Gerty and Hermans Streets, a National Monument, are both notable Sophiatown buildings. Sophiatown Transport: Metro bus 66 to Sophiatown or 63 to Newlands. Randburg Waterfront Johannesburg is a long way (550km/344 miles) from the nearest beaches (Durban) and this cluster of shops, bars, restaurants, cinemas and amusements encircling a man-made lake is a forced attempt at a seaside fishing-village atmosphere, clearly echoing the highly popular (and authentic) Cape Town Waterfront in Johannesburg’s rival city. Republic Road, Ferndale, Randburg Tel: (011) 789 5052 or (080) 000 1312. Transport: Metro bus 80, 81, 82 or 83 to Randburg. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free; some clubs have entrance charges ranging from R20 to R60. Art Galleries Johannesburg has a surprising number of excellent galleries, ranging from the corporate to the private and the off-beat to the mainstream. Three are recommended for their commitment to African and South African works. The Johannesburg Art Gallery houses traditional African art, contemporary South African landscapes and the particularly interesting William Kentridge collection. The Goodman Gallery encourages contemporary South African artists, with works by William Kentridge, Kendell Geers, Penny Siopis, Willie Bester and Sue Williamson, among others. The Kim Sacks Gallery displays traditional South African artefacts and contemporary South African crafts. A comprehensive listing of all of South Africa’s galleries (address, telephone, e-mail and websites) can be found at www.art.co.za. Other relevant websites are www.arthrob.co.za and www.artslink.co.za. The Black Arts Collective’s website is www.blackonline.mweb.co.za. Johannesburg Art Gallery King George St (off Klein Street), Joubert Park Tel: (011) 725 3130. Fax: (011) 720 6000. E-mail: art@mj.org.za Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Admission: Free. Goodman Gallery 163 Jan Smuts Avenue, Parkwood Tel: (011) 788 1113. Fax: (011) 788 9887. Website: www.goodman-gallery.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Admission: Free. Kim Sacks Gallery 153 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood Tel: (011) 447 5804. Fax: (011) 442 5571. Website: www.kimsacksgallery.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Admission: Free. JHB Civic Gallery Civic Theatre, Loveday Street, Braamfontein Tel: (011) 403-3408. Fax: (011) 403-3412. E-mail: civic@theatrekom.co.za Website: www.artslink.co.za Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1200-2000 or by appointment. Admission: Free. Tours of the City Walking Tours Parktown and Westcliff Heritage Trust (tel: (011) 482 3349; website: http://home.intekom.com/parktown) offers fairly easy walking tours that are around three hours and cost approximately R150. These can be guided or self-guided (pamphlets are available from ‘Northwards’, 21 Rockridge Road, Parktown, daily 0900-1300). The ‘Mansions & Minor Masterpieces’ walk explores the stately Sir Herbert Baker-designed ‘mining-magnate’ homes of Parktown and the artworks that decorate them. ‘From Cliff to Forest’ starts at Westcliff – another historic suburb – and ends in Forest Town, where the Zoo and Military History Museum are located. ‘Northcliff and Melville: Pre-History to Present’ covers the ancient Stone Age sites on Melville Koppies, the heights of Northcliff, the Louw Geldenhuys farmhouse, Emmarentia Dam and the Botanical Gardens. Departure points vary depending on the tour chosen. Walktours (tel: (011) 444 1639; website: http://users.iafrica.com/b/bp/bporter) organises longer guided walks, which take four to eight hours and cost R70-400 per person. Routes include ‘Sophisticated Sandton,’ exploring Africa’s richest shopping, business and residential areas, ‘Natural Johannesburg,’ which follows the Braamfontein Spruit (stream) and Sand Spruit trails, ‘Historic Johannesburg,’ covering the CBD, first suburbs and Alexander Township, and ‘Johannesburg by Night,’ which includes nocturnal Zoo animals, restaurants and clubs in Sandton, Rosebank or Melville). Departure points vary depending on the tour chosen. Bus Tours The Parktown and Westcliff Heritage Trust (tel: (011) 482 3349; website: http://home.intekom.com/parktown) puts on irregular guided bus tours, such as ‘Winsome, Wiley and Wonderful’ and ‘Magnates and Miners’, each 90 minutes long, according to a quarterly schedule advertised on their website. Departure is from ‘Northwards’, 21 Rockridge Road, Parktown. Springbok Atlas Safaris (tel: (011) 396 1053; fax: (011) 396 1069; website: www.spingbokatlas.co.za) organises full- or half-day tours (pick-up from hotels) to Central Johannesburg, Gold Reef City and Soweto. Prices for bus tours range from R45 to R125 per person. Other Tours CHC Helicopter Corporation (tel: (011) 827 8907, fax: 824 1660; website: www.chc.ca/southa) offers a regular service over Johannesburg and Soweto, from Rand International Airport. Half-hour tours cost R750 per person. Historical Flights (tel: (011) 978 5625 or 5685; website: www.historicflights.co.za) runs slow and low champagne flights over Johannesburg, in older historic aircraft – such as the SAA Junkers JU52. The two-hour balloon tour costs R375 per person. Bill Harrop’s Original Balloon Safaris (tel: (011) 705 3201-03; website: www.africantravel.com/billharrop) offers sunrise tours over the majestic Magaliesberg Mountains in a huge colourful hot-air balloon. The flight (R1200 per person) lasts for about an hour and is followed by a superb freshly prepared hot breakfast with champagne, upon landing. Balloon excursions depart from the Balloon Safaris Country Base (website: www.balloon.co.za) in the Magalies River Valley, near Hartebeespoort Dam, 65km (40 miles) north of the city. Excursions For a Half Day Witwatersrand National Botanical Gardens: ‘Best-kept secret’ may be one of those tired clichés but it certainly applies to this spot, within a one-hour drive from anywhere in Johannesburg. Against the backdrop of the magnificent Witpoortjie waterfall, this garden covers almost 300 hectares (750 acres) and consists of both landscaped and natural veld (open savannah) areas. The natural vegetation is a mosaic of grassland and savannah, consisting of 600 naturally occurring plant species. There is also the chance for visitors to see a breeding pair of majestic Black Eagles nesting on the cliffs. A restaurant (Café Clivia) is situated at the heart of the gardens, in the shade of two magnificent white stinkwood trees. The gardens (tel: (011) 958 1750; fax: (011) 958 1752; e-mail: botanic@mweb.co.za; website: www.nbi.ac.za) are located on Malcolm Road, Poortview, Roodepoort, and are best accessed by minibus-taxi from Noord Street to Brits, or Rustenberg via the R47. Visitors should ask to be dropped off at Doreen Road. The gardens are open daily 0800-1800 and cost R10. Johannesburg Lion Park: This is a 200-hectare (500-acre) lion reserve and breeding research station, featuring more than 60 lions (including a pair of the famous White Lions on loan from Johannesburg Zoo). Other animals include black wildebeest, gemsbok, impala, blesbok, zebra and ostrich. The Lion Park (tel: (011) 460 1814; e-mail: lionpark@cknet.co.za; website: www.lionpark.co.za) is located off the R55, between the R512 and Cedar Avenue, Nietgedacht. Most Johannesburg travel agents offer guided tours. It is open daily 0800-1630 and costs R75 per car for independent visits. For a Whole Day Cradle of Humankind: This 47,000-hectare (117,500-acre) site – encompassing Sterkfontein, Swartkrans, Kromdraai and the environs, starting 35km (22 miles) northwest of central Johannesburg and extending for another 20km (13 miles) – was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in December 1999. Dozens of limestone caverns, particularly the Sterkfontein Caves, have produced findings as remarkable as Mrs Ples – the first complete Australopithecus (southern ‘ape-man’) skull to be discovered – and more recently, Little Foot – a 3.3-million-year-old hominid skeleton. The heritage area also encompasses a Rhino and Lion Park, a cathedral-esque show-cave, hiking and horse trails, craft centres and the remnants of the Witwatersrand’s first goldmine. The Cradle of Humankind Exhibits (tel: (011) 355 1348; fax: (011) 333 0667; website: www.cradleofhumankind.co.za) are best reached by car or on a guided tour. Nevertheless, it is possible to get to the area via minibus taxi from the Noord Street rank (visitors should ask for Rustenberg and to be dropped off at Sterkfontein Caves). The caves (tel: (011) 956 6342) are open Tuesday to Sunday 0900-1600 and admission costs R15. The Rhino and Lion Park (tel: (011) 957 0109) is open weekdays 0800-1700 and weekends 0800-1800 and admission costs R28. Kromdraai Conservancy (tel: (011) 957 0241) run the hiking trails at R50 per day per person – these must be arranged in advance. Hotels By law, VAT, which currently stands at 14%, is included in all hotel prices. Porters are generally tipped around R10 but this not obligatory if the service does not warrant it. Guests can claim VAT back at the airport on their way home so it is a good idea to keep all hotel receipts. The prices quoted below are the starting prices for double rooms, excluding breakfast but including VAT, unless otherwise specified. Business Holiday Inn Johannesburg International Airport With the full range of business and conference services and facilities, encased in a soulless, glass facade just 500m (1640ft) from South Africa’s busiest airport, this hotel is unashamedly aimed at the business traveller. Guests, who if in possession of hand luggage only, could walk from the airport terminal to the hotel, can choose from standard rooms to executive suites, offering every amenity and round-the-clock room service. Some rooms offer access to the Internet by means of an infrared keyboard system. Although close to the airport, the gardens and outdoor pool provide a relaxing setting, the informal restaurant provides a satisfactory choice of cuisine and the Cocktail Bar is the perfect setting for that post-conference drink. There is a fully equipped international business centre and conference rooms range in size from the 240-seat classroom to the 520-seat Orly Suite. Airport Grounds, Jones Road, Johannesburg International Airport Tel: (011) 975 1121. Fax: (011) 975 5846. E-mail: holidayinnairport@southernsun.com Website: www.southernsun.com Price: From R555. Indaba Hotel Set in a 30-hectare (74-acre) country estate featuring indigenous flora and fauna, the white-walled, thatched buildings have become a landmark, minutes from the fast-growing Fourways business, retail and entertainment node and close to the N1 highway. With 210 very reasonably priced en-suite, air-conditioned bedrooms, including four executive suites and three studio rooms featuring modern facilities, such as modem points, cable/satellite TV and mini-bar, this is one of South Africa’s premier business and conference venues – a favourite with international air cabin crew. Crime is ever a concern in frenetic Johannesburg and the Indaba’s low-key security team has been able to maintain an enviable crime-free safety record. The hotel features 30 air-conditioned conference venues that can accommodate up to 2000 delegates in total, with banqueting facilities for up to 830 people. A variety of recreational facilities, such as a swimming pool, tennis courts, volleyball, outdoor chess and a jogging track, are provided. The function rooms are all equipped with the very latest in multimedia technology, including overhead video and transparency projectors, slide projectors, PA systems (roving and lapel microphones) and recording facilities. Three popular restaurants ensure that even the most challenging of palates will be satisfied. Fourways, Sandton Tel: (011) 465 1400. Fax: (011) 705 1709. E-mail: indaba@indabahotel.co.za Website: www.indabahotel.co.za Price: R535 (including breakfast). Rosebank Hotel This unpretentious, homely and well-run hotel is situated in the suburban business and retail node of Rosebank, 30 minutes from Johannesburg International Airport. A friendly, helpful and efficient staff and the thoughtful touches, such as ice cubes in the urinals and rose petals in the loos, have earned the hotel a loyal clientele. Two large shopping malls with a wide variety of shops, restaurants, cinemas and entertainment are within three minutes’ walk of the hotel. A highly experienced banqueting and audiovisual team serves six function venues on ground-floor level, able to accommodate gatherings from ten to 350 people. The hotel has 294 standard rooms with satellite TV, safe, telephone, modem point, air-conditioning, tea- and coffee-making facilities, and en-suite bathroom. In addition, the 24 luxury suites have a lounge-sitting area with dining room and bar. Additional facilities within the hotel include a business centre with secretarial service, car hire desk, hair and beauty salon, ample parking, pool, gym and a concierge available to help with sightseeing and entertainment reservations. Corner of Tyrwhitt and Sturdee Avenues, Rosebank Tel: (011) 447 2700. Fax: (011) 447 3276. E-mail: rosebank@rosebankhotel.co.za Website: www.rosebankhotel.co.za Price: R718. Sandton Sun & Towers Inter-Continental Located in Sandton, the business and economic capital of South Africa, with direct access to the immense Sandton City shopping complex, as well as to the Sandton Convention Centre (the largest in the country), this modern, skyscraper-type hotel offers a 24-hour front desk, pre-registration for groups, business centre, fitness centre/spa, restaurants/bar/lounge, beauty salon/barber, airline desk and car hire. A memorable if somewhat overdone feature in the foyer is a waterfall tumbling down a green marble wall, which is intended to create a relaxed atmosphere. The Towers atrium boasts Grecian friezes and soaring vaulted ceilings, while granite, marble and maplewood are the main materials used to create what purports to be a ‘harmonious blend of Art Deco design and ethnic style’ in the rooms. There are non-smoking floors and bedrooms, as well as two specially equipped rooms for the disabled. Restaurants include Ferns, which features ‘A taste of Africa’, and Vilamoura, a popular nightspot, providing Portuguese and seafood dishes. Guests can enjoy an aperitif before dinner in the Towers Bar, set against the backdrop of the spectacular atrium, or relax in the Gazebo Bar, with its rich African decor and motifs. A frequent guest has been South African Defence Minister, Terror Lekota. Corner of Fifth and Alice Streets, Sandhurst, Sandton Tel: (011) 780 5000. Fax: (011) 780 5002. E-mail: icsandtonsunandtowers@southernsun.com or joburg@interconti.com Website: www.southernsun.com Price: R920. Luxury Palazzo Inter-Continental Montecasino This extravagant hotel is part of the newly completed Montecasino gambling, leisure, entertainment and shopping complex in Fourways, just 30 minutes from Johannesburg International Airport. It is also in close proximity to the Sandton Convention Centre, one of South Africa’s premier convention facilities. In keeping with the ‘Tuscan Village’ theme, the hotel attempts to look like an Italian palace, while the setting does manage a surprising resemblance to the real thing. Luxurious accommodation includes two presidential suites, ten suites, 21 deluxe rooms and 213 elegantly appointed standard rooms, each with en-suite bathroom and separate shower, and all overlooking the lush, landscaped Tuscan gardens. All rooms have one king-size or two double beds, custom air-conditioning, telephone with voice-mail link and automatic wake-up call facility, modem point, hairdryer and refreshment centre. There is also a fully equipped fitness centre, outdoor swimming pool and a business centre, while at renowned impresario Pieter Toerien’s Montecasino Theatre, ‘The Graduate’ has recently played. Montecasino Boulevard, Fourways, Sandton Tel: (011) 510 3000. Fax: (011) 510 4000. E-mail: icpalazzo@southernsun.com Website: www.southernsun.com Price: R800 (including breakfast). The Westcliff The Westcliff claims to be ‘Johannesburg’s most luxurious hotel’ and with unique services and features such as private courtyards and Johannesburg’s best sunset and moonrise viewing spot, it probably is. The hotel clings to a steep mountainside in the manner and design of a Mediterranean hillside village and is likely to meet and exceed the expectations of the most experienced and particular of travellers. The breathtaking views from the hotel, to the far-off Magaliesberg Mountains or to the elephants browsing in the Zoo just below, have made it a sought-after rendezvous for everything from traditional afternoon teas to astronomical sightings under the intense African night sky. There are 115 spacious guest rooms and suites, all individually furnished, with a full range of business services and luxurious facilities – most feature charming terraces, balconies or private courtyards. Facilities include a business wing, complete with IT butlers, offering a range of services for business travellers, conference rooms, a magnificent hilltop heated swimming pool, tennis court, health and beauty spa, signature restaurant, Polo Lounge & Bar, a conservatory and poolside terrace. The Westcliff is just 20 minutes’ drive from the airport and is near upmarket shopping districts and three major golf courses (preferred tee-off times can be arranged by hotel staff). Famous guests at The Westcliff have included Sir Peter Ustinov, Dame Margaret Thatcher, Sting, U2, Jane Fonda, Stephanie Powers and most recently Sir Antony Sher, to name but a few. 67 Jan Smuts Avenue, WestcliffTel: (011) 646 2400. Fax: (011) 646 3500. E-mail: reservations@westcliff.co.za or info@westcliff.co.za Website: www.westcliffhotel.orient-express.com Price: R1560 (Rack rate for guests who book directly through the hotel). Moderate Eastgate Holiday Inn Express While this hotel certainly suits the budget bracket, with air-conditioning, work desks with modem points, swimming pool and secure parking, it is certainly not ‘cheap’. The Eastgate is an ultra-modern hotel, built from concrete and glass and despite offering relatively small rooms, the no-nonsense Eastgate really is amazing value for money. The hotel is situated just 15 minutes’ drive from Johannesburg International Airport and a mere ten minutes’ walk from the Eastgate Shopping and entertainment complex (ten cinemas). An added advantage is that the Eastgate is located just off the start of the N12/R24 freeways, making destinations such as Sandton, Pretoria, Durban and the Kruger National Park easily accessible. 8 South Boulevard, Bruma Tel: (011) 622 060. Fax: (011) 622 0030. E-mail: eastgateexpress@southernsun.com Website: www.southernsun.com Price: R480 (including breakfast). The Quatermain Inn The epitome of gracious living and a home-from-home atmosphere, The Quatermain, located in the upmarket suburb of Morningside, provides the travel-weary businessperson or leisure tourist with a convenient and tranquil base close to Sandton and Johannesburg. Set in manicured indigenous gardens, from its welcoming lounge to its luxuriously appointed rooms, The Quatermain is small enough to offer truly personal attention, but large enough to offer sophisticated service and assistance. Details like heated towel rails, Zimbabwean teak furniture and queen- or king-size beds in all 45 rooms are designed to make one feel pampered. The crowning glory of this gracious establishment is its 70-seater restaurant, Lutyens, which is owned and operated by chef patron Bruce Burns. 137 West Road South, Morningside, Sandton Tel: (011) 290 0900. Fax: (011) 290 0901. E-mail: reservations@quatermain.co.za Price: R585 (including breakfast). Other Recommendations Gold Reef City Casino Hotel Situated just off the M1 freeway, 20 minutes from Johannesburg International Airport, this grandiose Victorian-styled (to match the adjacent Gold Reef City Museum complex) hotel opened in March 2000 and has already accommodated celebrities from Miss Universe to Zulu King Goodwill Zwelithini. Its 38 luxurious, ‘old-world’ bedrooms are aimed at the corporate and conference markets, as well as tourists. There are conference rooms at the adjacent Gold Reef City, which include the 30-seat exclusive Presidents Room, the 500-seat Platinum Room and a 1400-seat arena, all with modern facilities and conference aids. The hotel’s Three Ships Restaurant (Nelson Mandela has dined here) has maintained the enviable reputation it developed at its previous location in the historic (but now somewhat neglected) Carlton Hotel. Next door, is the celebrated Globe Theatre (the original opened in the early 1890s) where energetic ‘African Footprint’ recently played. Shaft 14, Northern Parkway, Ormonde Tel: (011) 248 5700. Fax: (011) 248 5791. E-mail: grcres@iafrica.com Website: www.proteahotels.co.za Price: R1040. Sunnyside Park Hotel Built in 1895 as a gracious country residence for mining engineer Hennen Jennings, and the official residence of the Governor of the Transvaal during the Anglo-Boer War, the Sunnyside Park Hotel has been proclaimed a National Monument Site. The hotel’s rich history is reflected in the original magnificent balustrade, gleaming wooden-panelling, historic fireplace and glittering chandeliers. Although now situated among business parks, the building is still set in glorious English gardens and has been extensively refurbished to provide all the modern touches required by today’s traveller. Located just off the M1 freeway in the exclusive suburb of Parktown, it is a few minutes’ drive to cinemas, banks and shops at the Killarney Mall or to Rosebank, Sandton City and the new Sandton Convention Centre, and just 30 minutes to the airport. The Sunnyside Park Hotel is able to host banquets, conferences or small, intimate functions for between ten and 200 people. Milners Restaurant on site is all starched linen and quiet elegance with a British bent in food, tempered to suit all tastes. Princess of Wales Terrace, Parktown Tel: (011) 643 7226. Fax: (011) 642 0019. E-mail: sunnysideparkhotel@southernsun.com Website: www.southernsun.com Price: R1000 (breakfast may be included; guests should enquire when booking). Restaurants We have selected 25 restaurants, which we have divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. By law, VAT, which currently stands at 14%, must be included in all prices on menus and will, thus, already be included in restaurant bills. Most restaurants do not charge a service fee and waitrons (local term which incorporates waiters and waitresses) expect to be tipped at least 10% for very mediocre service and more if they make an effort. The prices quoted below are for a three-course meal and for a bottle of house wine or equivalent, including VAT but excluding service charge, unless otherwise stated. Gastronomic Broughton’s The decor is minimalist modern, the food beautifully presented and consistently delicious. Specialities are the house salad of greens with avocado, walnuts, Emmental and orange vinaigrette or the baked salmon on basil and herb risotto with white wine and ginger. Waitrons do not bring the wine list to guests; instead guests are invited to visit an entire cellar-full and choose wine themselves. Those who are are unaccustomed to sophisticated dining may find the waitrons a little aloof, however the service is impeccable. Shop 35, Ground Floor, Sandton Square, Fifth Street, Sandown, Sandton Tel: (011) 884 1608. Fax: (0111) 884 5415. E-mail: finedining@broughtons.co.za Website: www.broughtons.co.za Price: R130. Wine: R70. Dino’s Visitors should not be put off by Dino’s bland Bedford Shopping centre location. With decor resembling the opulent dining carriage of South Africa’s five-star ‘Blue Train’, it is certainly a ‘dress for dinner’ establishment. The ambience is sophisticated and dignified, the staff highly trained and the menu a fusion of gourmet indigenous African and French colonial. Notable are the wild duck in a litchi-orange sauce, accompanied by vegetables, or the ostrich fillet, cooked in a delicious plum and port sauce. Bedford Centre, corner of Smith and Bedford Streets, Bedfordview Tel: (011) 622 3007/8. Fax: (011) 615 6226. Price: R130 (average meal). Wine: From R55. La Belle Terrasse and Loggia Perched at the top of the cliffs, into which the Westcliff Hotel has been carved, this terrace certainly has one of the city’s most beautiful and surprisingly pastoral views. The decor, in quiet pastels, is elegant, opulent and unabashedly colonial, while the service is confident and competent. The Sunday brunch (a weekly pilgrimage for discerning folk in search of refuge from the bustling city streets) offers a cold buffet that includes French oysters, Caspian Sea caviar, queen prawns, smoked salmon and charcuterie, as well as a host of terrines and salads. The hot buffet includes eggs Benedict, as well as other lunch specialities, such as roasted spring lamb in a rosemary-scented jus. It is a fantastic place to dine in luxury while watching elephants (in the Zoo) amble across the paddocks below. The Westcliff Hotel, 67 Jan Smuts Avenue, Westcliff Tel: (011) 646 2400. Fax: (011) 481 6071. E-mail: tlatimer@westcliff.co.za Website: www.westcliffhotel.orient-express.com Price: R185. Wine: From R70. Linger Longer – Sandton Set in the converted mansion of a former mining magnate, the classic decor with a romantic feel recommends smart to formal dress. Service is skilful (menus are superfluous and the waitrons can rattle off all the standard and special dishes) and the haute cuisine is top class. As a starter, fresh knysna oysters or snails swimming in garlic are fantastic, for the main event either the duck (an all-time favourite) or one of the tempting specials are recommended, topped with homemade assorted sorbet. The Linger Longer opened in the 1970s and can be relied on to impress the most picky of palates – ideal for business lunches or dinners. Guests are advised to book well in advance. 58 Wierda Road, Wierda Valley, Sandton Tel: (011) 884 0465. Fax: (011) 884 4798. Price: R160. Wine: From R65. Vilamoura Vilamoura has been considered one of the city’s best Portuguese/seafood restaurants for long enough that the label has firmly stuck. It is smart and quite formal, with a cream and gold interior and stiff, unconvincing art prints decorating the walls. It has a renowned seafood platter that will delight any fish fanatic and is the ideal place to impress important guests (with price tag to match). In addition to seafood, Vilamoura’s piri-piri chicken, Portuguese steak and rabbit casserole are consistently delicious. There is a private dining area with seating for up to 130. Sandton Sun Hotel, corner of Fifth and Alice Streets, Sandhurst, Sandton E-mail: joburg@interconti.com Tel: (011) 884 0360. Fax: (011) 784 3615. Business Baccarat A relaxed, informal ambience with intimate gently lit corners and unobtrusive, personalised service are hallmarks of friendly chef-owner Alison Hearfield’s restaurant. The food is French-Huguenot style and blended with fresh-quality ingredients all prepared on site. The much-acclaimed buffet (R142.50) features more than 60 dishes, including smoked trout, thinly sliced smoked kudu served with a good splash of extra virgin olive oil and calamari done on the griddle with garlic sauce. The hot fish dishes include an unusual version of bouillabaisse soup and a traditional oxtail done with a rich red wine sauce. Guests can eat as much of the buffet as they like. Shop 53 Mutual Gardens, Admiral’s Court, Cradock Avenue, Rosebank Tel: (011) 880 1835. Fax: (011) 880 1851. E-mail: baccarat@mweb.co.za Price: R120. Wine: From R75. Browns of Rivonia Occupying a charming old farmhouse, in the relatively rural suburb of Rivonia close to a major freeway, Browns offers elegant ‘impress-your-clients’ dining, a large patio, a cosy fireplace, and a 40,000 bottle cellar. Recommended are the roquefort snails in garlic, the calamari, the chouriço (Portuguese traditional sausage), the roast duck in black cherry compote, Eric’s prawns, and the ever popular Moroccan lamb. The restaurant can accommodate private groups of up to 50. 21 Wessel Street, Rivonia, Sandton Tel: (011) 803 7605 or 803 7533. Fax: (011) 803 7605. Price: R150. Wine: From R85. Carnivore Situated just off the N1 highway on the outskirts of the city, with a dozen types of flesh on offer, Carnivore clearly aims to beat the appetite of the most ravenous of meat-eaters. Waitrons carve meat off converted Masai spears, while patrons sit round a huge, open central fire and scoff everything, from tame chicken legs and lamb with mint sauce to the wilder crocodile, eland and zebra. It is the local version of the original Nairobi Carnivore and not a pretty sight for vegetarians. Guests lower a white flag to show when they are totally stuffed. Plot 69 Drift Boulevard, Muldersdrift Tel: (011) 957 3040. Fax: (011) 957 3132. Price: R70-100 (for the carvery). Wine: R60. Gatriles This converted house, built in 1968 in the Bauhaus tradition, is a mixture of raw concrete, face-brick and wood, resulting in an uncluttered yet warm and comfortable establishment. The conservative decor of the main restaurant should be respected and patrons are expected to be dressed accordingly; there is also a less conservative bar/café area. South African specialities, such as game, venison and Cape Malay dishes, are prepared with a touch of French finesse, and the wine cellar currently holds nearly 10,000 bottles. Guests are welcome to mix and match the various menu items and vegetarian and vegan meals are also available on request. 5 Esterhuyzen Road, Sandown, Sandton Tel: (011) 883 7399. Fax: (011) 783 4994. E-mail: michel@gatriles.co.za Website: www.gatriles.co.za Price: R140. Wine: R80. Leaves at Zoo Lake Overlooking one of Johannesburg’s few public stretches of water, the Leaves at Zoo Lake, located in leafy Herman Eckstein Park, opposite the city Zoo, is one of the nicest places to take advantage of Johannesburg’s ideal climate. Full-length windows offer almost every table views over the water, while white linen tablecloths and narcissus flowers create a bright and modern ambience. The menu includes Vietnamese duck won tons for starters, followed by sweet potato and spinach curry for the main course and honeycomb ice cream for afters. The best time to visit is during the monthly ‘Artists in the Park’ exhibitions, when local painters display their works for sale. Zoo Lake conference facilities are housed in the same complex. Herman Eckstein Park, Prince of Wales Drive, off Jan Smuts Avenue Tel: (011) 646 8807, Fax: (011) 646 0058. Price: R125. Wine: From R52. Trendy Anno Domini Set alongside antique and second-hand bookshops, this restaurant has a relaxed and earthly romantic ambience with an open-air upstairs dining area, handy for smokers or those who like to dine under the stars with their Valentine. Ornate chandeliers, sand-washed walls, garish Expressionist pictures and somewhat clumsy handmade menus make up the decor. Specialities (the chef doesn’t like his offerings to be classified) include the beef fillet salsa verde, a marinated fillet in tamari, grilled and served with lightly sautéed oriental cabbage and salsa verde, and the dessert of warm chocolate cake with a tamarind crème anglaise, which takes about twenty minutes to prepare, is definitely worth the wait. The restaurant is very popular so booking is essential. Corner of Fourth Avenue and 13th Street, Parkhurst Tel: (011) 447 7634. Fax: (011) 447 1134. Price: R110. Wine: R85. Buzz 9 With an owner from the Czech Republic and patrons from the ‘hipper’ parts of Johannesburg, Buzz 9 has become a quirky but reliable landmark in Bohemian Melville. The interior is industrial-style and the menus are like mini-art folders where listing what food is on offer is secondary to making a statement. The main attraction here is the vast cocktail selection – the Beach Buzz house special is highly recommended – vodka, peach schnapps and gin tipple, mixed with grapefruit and orange juice. If eating, something simple like the huge and delicious Nacho platter is a good bet. Diners can eat outside at pavement tables, watching the eclectic street life cruise by. Corner of Seventh Street and Third Avenue, Melville Tel: (011) 726 5907. Fax: (011) 726 2019. Price: R95. Cocktails: From R12. Circle A relative newcomer to the city’s list of eating places, Circle is owned by the same couple who run The Singing Fig and the service and menu are on a par. The decor is shiny black and starched white, but there is nothing stiff about the jazzy, fresh-faced ambience and the young, opinionated clientele. Located on a row of curiosity shops in the fashionable suburb of Greenside, easily reached from Rosebank or Sandton, Circle’s dishes, such as seared calamari slivers with braised fennel, guineafowl in ginger and mango or crisp herb rolls in brown paper bags, are highly recommended. 41 Greenway Road, Greenside Tel: (011) 646 7240. Fax: (011) 646 3744. Price: R120. Wine: R50. The Singing Fig With secure parking behind and a location close to main throughroutes, the Singing Fig’s ambience, which lies somewhere in-between Italians-at-home and trendy pop-art, has made it one of Joburg’s ‘Place’s to be seen’. Some of the dishes prepared with an unusual mix of fresh ingredients (no preservatives here) are the chicken liver pâté with onion jam and brandy cream on a baguette as a mouthwatering starter, and crisp free-range duck drizzled with lacquer sauce and grilled vegetables. 44 The Avenue, Norwood Gardens Tel: (011) 728 2434 or 728 2485. Price: R120. Wine: R50. Yo! Sushi Yo! Sushi, part of the international chain, is modern, spacious and Western-Zen inspired (low-cost decor) and claims to be ‘a keen participant in avant-garde international culture’. While the sushi and other similar dishes are certainly fresh and healthy, master sushi chef (with seven years of study in Japan under his belt) adds a ‘funky’ touch to time-honoured tradition. Dishes trundle past on the conveyor-belt making Yo! Sushi ideal for folk who take ten-minute lunch breaks and want to avoid ‘junk’ food. Shop 449, Village Walk Shopping Complex, corner of Rivonia Road and First Avenue, Morningside, Sandton Tel: (011) 783 6166. Fax: (011) 783 6221. Price: Dishes range from R15-30. Sake: R28 (200ml pourer). Budget Black Steer Grillhouse and Bulldogs Pub Black Steer is primarily a steakhouse/sports bar and, with its garish (but strangely comforting) Wild West decor (complete with the obligatory ‘Wanted’ poster), it has no pretensions of being anything else. Located in the Rosebank Mall, here is a chance to tackle the awesome pork rib rack and steaks or the succulent calamari surrounded by an eclectic selection of the city’s inhabitants. The service is friendly, competent and attentive. Shop 171, Rosebank Mall, corner of Baker Street and Cradock Avenue, Rosebank Tel: (011) 447 6918. Fax: (011) 447 6920. E-mail: info@blacksteerfoods.co.za Website: www.blacksteerfoods.co.za Price: R80. Wine: R25 (500ml bottle). Giles The English evergreen cartoonist Giles and, closer to home, the writers of the Madam and Eve newspaper cartoons are much in evidence on the walls, tablecloths and menus of Giles the restaurant. This is a homely, convivial and unpretentious place, offering the most cosmopolitan collection of English cuisine prepared by affable chef Gary Segal. For starters, the Giles’ trout salad is recommended, followed by traditional English fish and chips, ended off with ‘Madam and Eve’ chocolate brownies with cream or ice cream. It is very pleasant to sit outside under the South African sun on the terrace-balcony and sip one of the excellent beers, while another awesome Highveld sunset spreads itself across the horizon above an urban forest. There is a cosy wooden-panelled traditional British pub for pre-dinner drinks. 9 Grafton Avenue, Craighall Park Tel: (011) 442 4056. Fax: (011) 442 4057. E-mail: Gilesrez@mweb.co.za Price: R90. Wine: From R40; BYO (free corkage). Golden Peacock Fordsburg, and Johannesburg’s Oriental Plaza, is usually associated not with dining but with bargain shopping and the city’s finest tailors. However, it is the ideal place to go for a really authentic Indian curry in a comfortable restaurant where anybody can sit down and share a glorious meal. No trendy decor but there are quaint teardrop chandeliers, a symbol from a time gone by. There is succulent mutton or vegetable breyani, potato curry, green bean curry, dhal and roti. All meals are served with yoghurt, poppadoms and pickles, and breakfast (served from 0900) is grilled chops, eggs, sausages, toast, tea or coffee for R30. Oriental Plaza, Lilian Road, Fordsburg Tel: (011) 836 4986. Fax: (011) 492 1205. Price: R80. Wine: R35. Pescador This cosy, intimate place in a quiet suburb is ideal for a relaxed evening undistracted by rowdy revellers. Authentic Portuguese seafood prepared according to traditional recipes (bacalhau – Portuguese dried salted cod in five variations) has given Pescador its enviable reputation. The grilled langoustines and the crab curry are great and they arrive in servings of challenging size, so the not-so-hungry could perhaps share a portion. Service is unobtrusive and professional and there is a pub and deck for light meals, coffees and sundowners. 21 Fort Street, Illovo, Sandton Tel: (011) 786 2746 or 440 4732. Price: R100. Wine: R40. The Radium Beer Hall The Radium is the oldest surviving bar and grill in Johannesburg, with a genuinely historic ambience that is just as enticing as the good food on the menu and as authentic as the foot-tapping live jazz that makes the embossed tin ceiling vibrate in sympathy. One of the oldest pubs in Johannesburg, once frequented by celebrated local author Herman Charles Bosman, now by loyal but loud regulars, it is a no-nonsense pub/restaurant with enough authentic character to make it a tourist attraction. This is the closest to experiencing what Joburg was like during the ‘gold-rush’ era – the walls are covered in memorabilia, from photos of pre-war soccer teams and jazzmen who have played there, to vintage posters and press clippings that record The Radium’s history, beginning in 1934. Delicious prego rolls, excellent ribs, 1kg of prawns for R150 and a wide selection of local and imported beers. The Radium is a great live music venue, with the accent on jazz. Owner Mannie has been known to evict obnoxious guests with his baseball bat. 282 Louis Botha Avenue, Orange Grove Tel: (011) 728 3866. Fax: (011) 483 2345. E-mail: mr.radium@iafrica.com Website: www.theradium.co.za Price: R85. Wine: R60. Personal Recommendations The Butcher Shop and Grill Another on the list of renowned dining venues that lean over Sandton Square, diners should book well in advance to get an evening table here. Granted, the ‘Barnyard’ decor may be a little ‘standard steakhouse’ and ‘childish’ (ironic as no one under 14 is allowed in), but for some of the best steaks (pork, ostrich, lamb, beef and game) in town, this is definitely the spot. For starters, the snails, done in garlic, lemon and other ingredients unique to The Butcher Shop, are great, and to end up, there is a straightforward but delicious ice cream in rich chocolate sauce. The menu also offers poultry, schnitzels, and sausage or seafood platter. The waitrons have been known to intimidate guests into choosing one of the truly world-class wines before letting the implications of the price tag set in. Shop 30, Sandton Square, Sandown, Sandton Tel: (011) 784 8676/7. Fax: (011) 784 8674. E-mail: thebutchershop@mweb.co.za Website: www.thebutchershop.co.za Price: R130. Wine: R300 (bottle of premium red wine). Carvers Tucked inside the peaceful suburb of Darrenwood overlooking a small nature reserve, Carvers takes up the bottom floor of a beautiful mansion built in the Cape-Dutch style. The surrounding gardens feature large trees while the interior walls are hung with paintings by owner Francois van Halter. The atmosphere is one of calm confidence and the renowned theme buffets and other specials, such as the traditional Belgian mussel-pot, are sure to impress. Guests should definitely take advantage of the beer list that tops the 50 mark. Carvers also boasts comprehensive function and conference facilities. 51 Mountain View Avenue, Darrenwood Tel: (011) 678 5417/8. Fax: (011) 478 0133. E-mail: info@carvers.co.za Website: www.carvers.co.za Price: R85. Wine: R45. Lutyens Bruce Burns is not only a veteran of the local and international culinary competition scene and director of the South African Chefs Association, but he creates dishes that reflect his enjoyment of food at his 70-seater restaurant in The Quatermain Inn in Morningside. The food certainly tastes marvellous and dishes are elegant, wholesome and simple, changing according to what happens to be the freshest ingredients available on any particular day. The menu has a modern South African bent, with starters such as smoked springbok carpaccio with avocado and papaya salad and an onion marmalade, and main courses such as Malay chicken bake with a citrus chilli sauce and spicy banana chutney on a bed of spring onion basmati rice. For desert, the rasberry yoghurt mousse with a Van der Hum liquor berry compote comes highly recommended. 137 West Road South, Morningside, Sandton E-mail: reservations@quatermain.co.za Tel: (011) 290 0900. Fax: (011) 290 0901. Pappas on the Square From the murals on the walls to the breaking of plates (R3 each), apart from its location overlooking a fairly successful attempt at an Italian piazza (Sandton Square), everything about Pappas is loudly and proudly Greek. The chef once cooked for Christine Onassis and he produces kleftiko (lamb shank) and a mezze platter delicious enough to prove it. Here it is acceptable to shout across the tables for a fresh bottle – something like eating in a Greek home. Guests should hang around long enough for the Greek dancing and (Egyptian really) belly dancer. There is an impressive wine list and big functions are readily catered for. Sandton Square (Level 1), corner of Fifth and Alice Streets, Sandton Tel: (011) 884 9991. Fax: (011) 884 6700. Price: R125. Wine: R80 (bottle of mid-range red). Rodizio Bedfordview This Brazilian restaurant is an excellent choice for lovers of spicy food. Those feeling in the mood for beef must try the house speciality, ‘Rodizio’, which begins when a plate of rice, big bowls of spinach in white sauce and chips and vegetables arrive. Guests are then presented with a wooden ‘robot’ (local term for traffic light) with which they can signal for a variety of roasted meat as often as they wish. The piri-piri prawns (guests should ask for ‘real’ piri-piri) and fresh oysters are excellent too. Large groups of regulars usually patronise the evening live act, sometimes accompanied by bands and Latin-American dancers. The service does match the laid-back but fairly festive ambience. For a different drink, the Guarana, which tastes like apples, or the Caparinha, a sweet Brazilian cocktail, are both recommended. Shop 35, Village View Shopping Centre, corner of Kloof and Van Buuren Roads, Bedfordview Tel: (011) 455 1093. Fax: (011) 455 1093. E-mail: rodizio@netactive.co.za Price: R120. Wine: R65. Sport Johannesburg’s favourite sports are soccer, road-running, rugby and cricket (in that order). Early each Sunday morning, road-runners gather in their tens of thousands to take part in road races organised by dozens of athletic clubs, such as the RAC (Rand Athletic Club), Benoni Harriers, Pirates and Varsity Kudus. There is comprehensive online information (website: www.worldofendurance.com) available for running information, as well as cycling, mountain biking, adventure racing, canoeing and triathlon. In general, South Africans are soccer mad and the Johannesburg clubs play either in the PSL (Professional Soccer League) or the MTN Supersport Leagues. In the PSL, top Johannesburg teams and fierce rivals are the Amakhozi or Kaizer Chiefs (website: www.kaizerchiefs.com), The Birds or Morocco Swallows, and Buccaneers/Bucs or Orlando Pirates (website: www.orlandopirates.co.za), which are based at the city’s Johannesburg, Rand and FNB stadiums respectively. The Wits University team, Clever Boys, is right up there with the best of them and, with a player membership of over 1500, is one of the world’s largest clubs. The city’s best, under the MTN banner, are Katlehong City and Alexander United, who play at the Alexander and Reiger Park stadiums. Home to the Gauteng Lions, the formidable Johannesburg rugby team, Ellis Park, South Park Street (tel: (011) 402 8644/8; website: www.ellispark.com) is arguably the world’s most famous rugby stadium, while the famed cricket team, Highveld Strikers (website: www.highveldstrikers.co.za), are based at Johannesburg’s renowned Wanderers Stadium, Corlett Drive, Illovo (tel: (011) 788 1008; website: www.wanderers.co.za). This provincial team takes part in the prestigious Supersport and Standard Bank Cup series. There are a vast number of excellent websites, all trying to keep up with the South African’s insatiable appetite for sport. There is a website for soccer enthusiasts (website: www.soccermania.co.za), which is the best place to find out everything concerning clubs, fixtures, venues and tickets. There is a website (www.superrugby.co.za) that provides information on rugby, and an extremely informative one for South African cricket (www.rsa.cricket.org). There is a comprehensive website (www.iol.co.za) for full schedules and press reports online; sports enthusiasts should click on sport. Most tickets for major sporting events are available through Ticketweb (website: www.ticketweb.co.za) or Computicket (website: www.computicket.co.za). Golf: There are dozens of good golf-courses in and around Johannesburg, including Bryanston Country Club, Bryanston Drive, Bryanston (tel: (011) 706 1391), Houghton Golf Club, Second Avenue, Houghton (tel: (011) 728 7337), Randpark Golf Club, Setperk Street, Windsor Park (tel: (011) 476 1691), and Royal Johannesburg Golf Club (tel: (011) 640 3021; website: www.royaljk.za.com). Visitor’s green fees range from R130 to R200. Visiting golfers must carry proof of membership of any bona fide golf club. Caddies and carts are available for hire at all courses at approximately R70 and R130 respectively. Further information is available online (website: www.sa-venues.com/gauteng_golf_courses.htm). Gyms: With the recent demise of the extensive Health and Racquet Club chain, which had over a dozen branches in Johannesburg, Richard Branson’s Virgin Active has stepped in to refurbish the gyms (tel: (0860) 200 911). Horseracing: There are three racecourses in and around Johannesburg – Turffontein in Johannesburg, Newmarket in Alberton and Gosforth Park in Germiston. South Africa has world-class breeders and trainers who have developed the sport to the highest international standards. Newmarket Turf Club, Alberton (tel: (011) 907 9753), is one of the most famous horseracing courses in South Africa. Night racing is a new innovation. Details of meetings are published in the press. Swimming: There are sparkling, well-maintained public pools in the suburbs of Brixton (tel: (011) 837 2440), Ellis Park (tel: (011) 402 5565), Linden (tel: (011) 888 3750), Parkview (tel: (011) 646 8754) and Roosevelt Park (tel: (011) 782 2474). Tennis: Public courts are available at the municipal Marks Park complex, located on Judith Road, Emmarentia (tel: (011) 486 1963), and at various recreation centres, such as Paterson Park, in Norwood (tel: (011) 728 7250). Many of the golf clubs listed above have their own tennis courts. Shopping Johannesburg is a shopper’s paradise, with a huge choice of options from upmarket fashion boutiques and big malls to street markets and vendors, curiosity shops and muti merchants (traditional medicine vendors – especially underneath the fly-over highway on the south end of Faraday Street and on downtown Diagonal Street). To avoid the ‘Mall morbs,’ visitors should try Johannesburg’s exciting array of flea markets, ranging from Market World’s ‘bigger is better’ to Organic Village Market’s ‘authenticity is all.’ Market World, 49 Ernest Oppenheimer Avenue, Bruma, is a sprawling, bewildering mass of hundreds of stalls – even the sidewalks approaching the area are covered with wares. It is open every day except Monday, 0800-1800, and carries a charge R1.50 for admission (this goes to charity). Open daily 0800-1700, the African Craft Market (website: www.craft.co.za), next to The Mall, 1 Cradock Avenue, Rosebank, is an absolute must for all visitors, not just shoppers, especially as there are often live performances by local bands. It is more expensive and there is less junk on sale than at Market World but it still offers hundreds of stalls. Both places are among the best for African curios. Michael Mount Organic Village Market, 231 Bryanston Drive, Bryanston, Sandton (website: www.mmom.co.za), is truly a craftsman’s craft-market, where everything on sale is strictly handmade or organically produced. It is famous for tasty home bakes and a delicious range of homemade cheeses. A popular tea garden offers pies, pastries and pots of indigenous rooibos (bush) tea. It is open Thursday and Saturday mornings, as well as for a Moonlight Market (1700-2100) on the last Tuesday of every month. New, huge shopping malls are still springing up in and around Johannesburg, with Eastgate Mall, Sandton City (website: www.sandtoncity.com), The Mall of Rosebank (website: www.mallofrosebank.co.za) and Fourways Mall (website: www.fourwaysmall.com) probably being the most user-friendly for the newcomer. Sandton City is the place where the rich and famous shop. It offers designer fashion, jewellery, electronic goods and also some excellent (but expensive) curio shops. Over the past few years, the used book route has moved from Yeoville’s Rockey Street to Melville’s Main Road and Seventh Streets, while the favoured area for antiques remains Norwood, particularly Grant Avenue. Art Africa, 62 Tyrone Avenue, Parkview, sells a range of African arts and crafts objects, often produced from recycled materials in self-help projects. The Giraffe Centre, Second Avenue, Melville, has a wide selection of craft shops, Elephant Hide, 162 Corlett Drive, Bramley, is a good place to either shop for bush footwear and African designs or take a break in the garden with tea and a Zulu witch doctor’s fortune telling. A wonderful place for handicrafts made by local Soweto women, is Cobble Centre, on the corner of 12th and Fourth Streets, Parkhurst. Mall shopping hours are generally 0900-1700 (0900-1400 Sundays), although the bigger department stores and supermarkets may remain open to 1800. Value added tax (VAT) of 14% is levied on all goods sold (although this is largely ignored in the flea markets) and visitors can reclaim this upon departure, provided they have kept all receipts and filled in the appropriate point of purchase forms, where necessary. Culture Until 1994, the policy of apartheid or ‘separate development’ divided the city into so-called ‘White’, ‘Black’, ‘Coloured’ and ‘Indian’ residential areas and the city’s cultural landscape reflected this. In addition, the white community was further segregated along the language line, with the English speakers living in distinct communities, as did the Afrikaans speakers. Cultural mixing did occur in specific ‘grey’ suburbs, such as the famous Sophiatown, which was bulldozed by the authorities in 1960, for precisely this reason. The present situation is one whereby cultures are once again discovering each other and this is evident in the eclectic music and theatre scene, especially in the suburbs of Brixton, Troyeville and Melville. Sophiatown has regained her name. Any thoughts that Johannesburg may suffer from chronic cultural as well as climatic drought can be put to rest by paging through the Tonight supplement to the city’s main daily newspaper, The Star (website: www.iol.co.za). As well as the lively theatre scene, Johannesburg’s annual festivals, which cover nearly every artistic field, are an engrossing way to sample different aspects of the city’s cultural life. Tickets to cultural events are available from Computicket (tel: (011) 340 8000; fax: (011) 340 8900; website: www.computicket.com) or Ticketweb (tel: (086) 140 0500; website: www.ticketweb.co.za). There is also a good online cultural guide (website: www.artslink.co.za). Music: The lusty lyrics and irresistible dance beats of kwaito can be heard blasting out of taxis, clubs, shebeens and street parties throughout Johannesburg. The genre uses local languages and street slang in lyrics that reflect life in South Africa and employs a distinct South African style of dancing and dressing. Places to hear kwaito include La Frontière, Hillbrow, Insomnia, Randburg, Tandoor, Yeoville, 707i, Orlando West, Soweto. Maskande is a Zulu/country fusion that is well represented by Philemon Zulu and the Jeremy Franklin Band. Busi Mhlongo and Madala Kunene are also worth seeing. Gigs are not as common as they are for kwaito performances and visitors should check local press. Theatre: Since 1976 and the days of protest theatre, the Market Theatre Company, 121 Bree Street, Newtown Cultural Precinct (tel: (011) 832 1641; website: www.markettheatre.co.za), has gained a reputation for putting on productions that are socially relevant. The Civic Theatre Complex, Loveday Street, Braamfontein (tel: (011) 403 3408; website: www.artslink.co.za/civic), comprises the Nelson Mandela Theatre (formerly Civic Main), Tesson, Thabong and Pieter Roos theatres and an art gallery. Shows are mainly local productions, musicals, spectaculars, comedy and pantomime (when in season). Pieter Toerien’s Montecasino Theatre, Shop 65, Montecasino Boulevard, on the corner of William Nicol Drive and Witkoppen Road, Fourways (tel: (011) 511 1988; website: www.montecasinotheatre.co.za), owned by the great impresario who gave it his name, gives both new and established artistes opportunities for new directions and growth. Another well known theatre and cabaret figure, Richard Loring, runs The Sound Stage, Old Pretoria Road, Midrand (tel: (011) 315 5084; website: www.soundstage.co.za). Dance: Dance Factory (tel: (011) 833 1347; fax: (011) 833 1263; e-mail: dancefactory@icon.co.za), President Street, Newtown Cultural Precinct, hosts a huge range of international and local performers, often mixing classical and ethnic styles. Poetry: Poetry Slams (literary boxing matches) are held at the Mixer Café Theatre, on the corner of Fourth Avenue and Seventh Street, Melville. Film: Ster-Kinekor (website: www.sterkinekor.com) cinemas are located at dozens of venues throughout Johannesburg and screen mainstream movies. Cinema Nouveau, located at The Mall shopping centre, 50 Bath Avenue, Rosebank (tel: (011) 880 2866), has a reputation for showing arthouse films. The year 2000 saw the first ever Soweto Film Festival, which could well become an annual event (website: www.news24.com). Some notable films set in Johannesburg include Mapantsula (1988), which tells of a petty hoodlum caught up in the events of the student riots in Soweto, The Foreigner (1994), which deals with the growing xenophobia aimed mostly at immigrant Africans in Johannesburg, and The Line (1996), which portrays ordinary South Africans caught up in the violent times of a fast changing society. Cultural events: The Arts Alive festival (tel: (011) 838 6407; website: www.artsalive.org) occurs annually during September, mainly at venues in Newtown but also in Soweto and Tembisa. Apart from general music concerts and stage productions, such as the popular Jazz on the Lake (at the Zoo lake), community festivals from Soweto and Alexandra are also included. There are various sub-festivals that occur at the same time – including Joy of Jazz and Dance @ Arts Alive. This is regarded as one of South Africa’s top dance festivals and boasts a huge programme. FNB Vita run many festivals, including Dance Umbrella – the major national platform for South African choreography, every February and March, at the Wits Theatre, Jorrisson Street, Braamfontein – the Windybrow Theatre Festival – every March at the Windybrow Centre for the Arts, 161 Nugget Street, Hillbrow – and the Market Theatre Laboratory Community Theatre Festival – where plays, music and dance are showcased by community theatre troupes in May. The annual World of Music and Dance festival, WOMAD (website: www.womad.org/southafrica), takes place over a weekend, at Bluegum Creek in Benoni, and includes workshops, weekend camping and a late-night dance event (dates differ every year). Literary Notes Johannesburg’s tumultuous past (and present) has provided fertile grounds for the growth of a rich literary tradition. An excellent source of books is the African Books Collective (website: www.africanbookscollective.com). Nadine Gordimer, who won the 1991 Nobel Prize for Literature, was born close to the city in 1923 and has lived in Parktown, Johannesburg since 1948. In The House Gun (1998), set in Johannesburg, she explores, through a murder trial, the problems of a violence-ridden post-apartheid society. In his writings about Johannesburg, Herman Charles Bosman (1910-1951) presents the soul of the city as reflecting the soul of Africa. To understand the background as to why Johannesburg has fascinated so many writers, Gandhi’s Johannesburg: Birthplace of Satyagraha (2000), by Eric Itzkin, and A City Divided: Johannesburg and Soweto (1984), by Nigel Mandy, are both a good initial read. Although Nelson Mandela was not born in Johannesburg, he did have a law practice here in the 1950s and was arrested in the suburb of Rivonia, before being tried and convicted for treason in 1963. Mandela’s autobiography Long Walk to Freedom (1995) provides a remarkable insight into what Johannesburg in the 1940s and 50s was like for this extraordinary man. Zakes Mda’s new novel about Sophiatown, Heart of Redness (2001), explores the area during ‘The golden 50s. The flowering of South African culture. The Sophiatown renaissance.’ One of Johannesburg’s most famous theatrical sons is Pieter-Dirk Uys, possibly better known as Evita Bezuidenhout. Pieter-Dirk Uys started irritating South African politicians and censors with his plays from 1973 onwards. His better known or more notorious works include Adapt or Dye (1981), which parodied the white regime’s preoccupation with skin colour and, more recently, Truth Omissions (1996/1997), a somewhat ascorbic comment on South Africa’s Truth Commission, a post-apartheid platform to facilitate reconciliation and reparation. One of South Africa’s greatest living poets, Don Mattera, was born in Johannesburg’s Sophiatown in 1935. His grandparents sent him to a private Catholic boarding school, which he hated. Here he acquired little other than skills in English, boxing and codes of masculinity, which he turned to great advantage on his return to Sophiatown, where he became leader of one of the most notorious gangs, the Vultures. Then, slowly, along with the campaign against the apartheid removals (from Sophiatown), began the process of politicisation – membership of the ANC Youth League – and his transformation from gangland boss to political activist. Nightlife From street bashes (all invited) and gumba-gumba (traditional house parties in Soweto) to jols (any good party) and lang-arm (ballroom dances) in the suburbs, Johannesburg has a lively nightlife, although it is quite divided between white and black venues. There are a somewhat bewildering selection of shebeens (informal drinking places – usually in someone’s home), taverns (more fancy than a shebeens, possibly with live music), bars (often male and sport dominated), pubs (more genteel and expensive than bars) and nightclubs (venues with cover charges, smart-casual dress codes, late openings and usually with dancing) to choose from. Every Friday, the Mail & Guardian (website: www.mg.co.za) publishes exhaustive listings of what is on where. A highly recommended listings website is www.jhblive.co.za. The nightlife is focused around distinct districts, with Melville/Brixton being one of the most popular areas. Other northern suburbs – such as Rosebank, Norwood, Rivonia and Orange Grove – are also popular with more affluent party animals, while the CBD, Yeoville, Braamfontein and Newtown also get going after dark. Going out alone in Soweto is not advised, although do go with a local or take a guided tour or ‘Shebeen Crawl’ (see Soweto Tours in the Key Attractions section). There are no strict licensing hours and many clubs stay open until sunrise and beyond. The legal drinking age in South Africa is 18. Some of the upmarket hotels have a smart-casual dress code, although in almost all other establishments, anything goes. Admission charges (generally R10-50) are fairly common and a certainty when there is a live band playing. Raves, a popular Joburg experience, can be expensive at R80-170. Tickets to these and other events can be purchased online (website: www.ticketweb.co.za). Bars: The trendiest new place, hosting comedy nights every Wednesday, is Cafe ‘Allo’, located at the Verdi Centre, on the corner of Beyers Naude Road (formerly D.F Malan Drive) and Waugh Street, in Blackheath. Melville gets really busy after dark. Catz Pajamas, a 24-hour restaurant and pub on Main Road, or The Full Stop, a café on Fourth Avenue, are good places to start the night. The Ratz Bar, Seventh Street, is another vibrant young bar, and Roxy Rhythm Bar, 20 Main Road, Melville, is a laid-back place for a drink and a game of pool or pinball, although it does get busy later, as local bands play every night. Donna Diego’s Tobacconist, Seventh Street, is a tobacconist’s shop that is home to a tiny, comfortable but upmarket bar. The bar is a great place to buy the smoke of your choice and savour it while sipping a brandy and listening to classical music. In Braamfontein, Champions, on the corner of Wolmarans and Rissik Streets, is Johannesburg’s oldest gay bar. The mixed atmosphere is friendly, although the district is not the safest. Carfax, 39 Pim Street, in Newtown, is the place to go if you are in the mood for performance art with your beer – it also arranges raves. One of the city’s oldest bars is Radium Beer Hall (website: www.theradium.co.za), 282 Louis Botha Avenue, in Orange Grove. It started life as a tea room in 1929, was converted to a beer hall in 1944 and has never looked back. Alternatively, for real upmarket swank in the suburbs, try Jabulani’s, Park Hyatt Hotel, Oxford Road, Rosebank. Casinos: The new Montecasino (website: www.montecasino.co.za) gambling complex is located in the suburb of Fourways. The complex, which is a replica of a fortified Tuscan village, includes restaurants, cinemas, theatres, clubs and shows. It covers and area of five hectares (20 acres) and is a labyrinth underneath a false summer-night sky. The casino offers the full gamut of games and is separated from the shops and restaurants by an artificial stream. The age limit is 18 years and identification may be needed. There is no dress code but shorts and sandals are not encouraged. Clubs: Melville has its fair share of trendy nightclubs – look into the indescribable Buzz 9, Seventh Street – but Hillbrow and Yeoville still offer the most authentically South African club scene. You will find an eclectic mix of disco, soul, hip hop, mbaqanga and kwaito on offer here, as well as a friendly and up-for-it crowd. Base, on the corner of Twist and Kotze Streets, Hillbrow, attracts a well-dressed clientele and benefits from a superb chill-out balcony. Da Flava, Rockey Street, Yeoville, is also for the well dressed, playing a lot of hip hop. The trendy young black crowd go to Piccadilly Café, corner of Rockey and Cavendish Streets, Yeoville. 206 Live, 206 Louis Botha Avenue, Orange Grove, is a good place to go for funk and drum’n’bass. A thriving rave culture is centred around Ice Productions (website: http://ice.powerzone.co.za) with its mammoth Ice Festivals. Their Freedom Festival happens at The Electric Workshop, in the Mega Music precinct, Gough Street (between Jeppe and Commissioner Streets), Newtown – an area comprising a revamped old turbine house and various smaller venues. Favoured venues are Reality, 248 Jeppe Street, which has three dance floors and offers a blend of hip hop, house and drum’n’bass, Bump, on the corner of Alexander and Aitken Roads, Midrand, the home of some big parties of note, and Carfax, 39 Pim Street, Newtown, which is a prime venue for launches and parties. Big Brother Productions (website: www.bigbroprod.co.za) hosts regular H²O parties at Wildwaters, a water theme park in Boksburg, east of Johannesburg. Other unusual venues for raves include the Mega Music Warehouse, between Pim, Goch, Bezuidenhout and President Streets, Newtown – the turbine hall of a derelict power station. Live music: Melville’s The Bassline, 7 Seventh Street, is one of the most popular jazz and blues venues in Johanne