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_City Overview When a huddle of poor tin miners first crowded around the mosquito-ridden banks of the slimy Gombak and Klang rivers in 1857, they could little have imagined that within a century and a half, Kuala Lumpur would have metamorphosed into one of Asia’s most vibrant and compelling cities. The city is now a thriving metropolis, where the world’s tallest buildings thrust confidently into the heavens. Kuala Lumpur, meaning ‘muddy confluence’ owing to its riverside foundation, has grown with bewildering speed since the tin mining days; a growth that took on epic proportions after independence and particularly in the late 1980s and 1990s, as the ‘Asian Tiger’ economy propelled an ever-changing skyline. The speed of change has left old Chinese houses and faded colonial mansions resting beside huge gleaming glass and steel towers, while food hawkers and traditional fortune tellers share the same streets as bustling businessmen and confused tourists. The city is not so much a melting pot or contrast between old and new as it is an ever evolving jungle of buildings, which seem to have sprouted organically from the sweaty vegetation and murky rivers that still snake through the heart of town. One of the most admirable aspects of the city is the level of tolerance displayed by its cosmopolitan residents, with ethnic Malays, Chinese, Indians and Europeans all living and working together with few racial problems – certainly far less than those experienced in Western Europe or North America. Kuala Lumpur, to many Malaysians, is quite simply Ibukota (the ‘Mother City’) and is treated with great reverence, abbreviated fondly to KL by most locals. Reminders of the old Kuala Lumpur are on display in the form of colonial buildings dotted around the city centre. The most poignant symbols of British rule and Malaysia’s subsequent independence are found in the area around Dartan Merdeka (Independence Square), where the Malaysian Flag continually commemorates the country’s gaining self-rule on 31 August 1957. One of the city’s best examples of colonial architecture, the Royal Selangor Club, still remains here. The last half decade was one of the most traumatic periods since independence, as the Asian economic crisis of 1997 tripped through the economy, halting a number of major projects and leaving a lasting legacy of unfinished skyscrapers, which hang on the horizon, like ghostly reminders of the darkest days. Today there are signs that things are getting back on an even keel, economically, with more realistic growth targets and new developments, such as the Multimedia Super Corridor, which aim to place Kuala Lumpur at the forefront of the global technology industry by 2020. Quite how the Bali bombings of October 2002 and the ‘War on Terror’ will affect Malaysia and its capital remains to be seen, with tourism in particular threatened by regional insecurity and the role of the country as a leading Muslim state never more in the spotlight. Nevertheless, one constant in Kuala Lumpur is the climate, with its consistently warm daytime temperatures, balmy evenings and afternoons that are often punctuated by thunderstorms, usually passing quickly to leave the evenings cool and rain free. Getting There By Air Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KUL) Tel: (03) 8777 8888. Website: www.klia.com.my The state-of-the-art Kuala Lumpur International Airport (or KLIA), 43km (27 miles) to the south of the city centre, is a major gateway to South East Asia. It handles flights for over 40 international carriers and in 2001 the airport served over 14 million passengers. Major airlines: Malaysia Airlines (tel: (03) 7846 3000; website: www.malaysiaairlines.com.my) is the national airline, operating both international and domestic flights. Other major airlines include: British Airways, Canadian Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Emirates, Garuda Indonesia, Japan Airlines, KLM, Lufthansa, Northwest, SAS, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways and regional budget carrier Air Asia. Approximate flight times to Kuala Lumpur: From London is 13 hours; from New York is 20 hours 15 minutes; from Los Angeles is 17 hours 40 minutes; from Toronto is 21 hours 40 minutes and from Sydney is 7 hours 55 minutes. Airport facilities: These include ATMs, bureaux de change, 24-hour shopping, duty free, restaurants, postal services, tourist information, hotel reservations, car hire (Budget and Hertz) medical service, left-luggage and prayer rooms. Business facilities: These include executive lounges, limousine service to the city and the E-Centre (tel: (03) 8787 2323), which provides telephone, fax, Internet, teleconferencing, postal and secretarial services. Arrival/departure tax: There is no arrival tax and tickets purchased within Malaysia usually include departure tax. Otherwise RM40 international and RM10 domestic departure tax is payable. Transport to the city: The brand new Express Rail Link (tel: (03) 2267 8000; fax: (03) 2267 8910; website: www.KLIAekspres.com) connects KLIA with the KL KAT Terminal at Sentral Station, in the city centre. There are two airport services – the KLIA Ekspres, which covers the journey in 28 minutes without stopping, and the KLIA Transit, which takes 35 minutes and stops en route at Salak Tinggi, Putrajaya/Cyberjaya and Bandar Tasik Selatan. Fares for both routes are RM35 single and RM65 return, with a carnet of ten tickets costing RM315. Services start at 0500 in both directions, with the last trains leaving at 0100. Taxis can be pre-paid in the arrivals area at the airport and visitors should expect to pay RM66.80 for a standard car or RM91.80 for the premier service to the city centre (journey time – 40 minutes). Getting There By Road Roads in Malaysia are generally in good repair and driving standards are higher than in most Asian countries. In general, road routes are simply numbered. Traffic drives on the left and it is compulsory to wear a seatbelt. The speed limits are 60kph (37mph) in the city, 90kph (56mph) on main country roads and 110kph (69mph) on highways and expressways. The minimum age for driving is 21 years (16 years for a motorcycle). A national driving licence is required and it is advisable to obtain an International Driving Permit. Without the latter, the Road Transport Department must endorse any national licence. Third party automobile liability insurance is compulsory. Drink driving is an offence that can get the unwary traveller in more trouble than he bargained for, seeing as if a man is convicted of drink driving in Malaysia, his wife is also jailed. The North–South Highway, which extends from Singapore to the Thai border via Kuala Lumpur, has made driving in Malaysia a relative breeze. Although driving standards are good, Malaysia still has its share of drivers who take risks such as overtaking on blind corners, speeding in heavy rainfall and jumping red traffic lights. A letter of introduction from a driver’s own automobile association is required to join the Automobile Association Malaysia (tel: (03) 2162 5777). Emergency breakdown service(s): Automobile Association Malaysia (03) 2161 0808 Plusronda provide 24-hour emergency telephones, every two kilometres on expressways and highways. Routes to the city: The North–South Expressway Central Link (NSECL), Federal Highway, Shal Alam Expressway and Klang Valley Expressway Highway are the main routes to the city centre. Both the NSECL and the federal road route one run from Johor Baru, which is connected via bridge to Singapore in the south, to Kuala Lumpur, as well from Butterworth/Penang into the city centre. From Melaka, the federal road route five connects to the Shah Alam and Klang Valley Express Highway into Kuala Lumpur city centre. Approximate driving times to Kuala Lumpur: from Melaka – 2-3 hours; Singapore – 5-6 hours; Butterworth/Penang – 6-7 hours. Coach services: Kuala Lumpur has four interstate express bus terminals serving different regions of Peninsula Malaysia. A large number of companies operate air-conditioned services, including Transnasional Express (tel: (03) 230 3300). In most cases, there is no need for travellers to book in advance and passengers simply turn up and get on the next bus. The main terminal, Puda Raya Bus Station, Jalan Puda Raya (tel: (03) 230 0145), is a hub for services all over Peninsula Malaysia, as well as international services to Singapore (journey time – 7-8 hours) and Thailand. Despite the recent introduction of ‘black boxes’ on Malaysian buses, serious accidents remain a frequent problem and dangerous driving is common. Services to the east coast of Peninsula Malaysia also leave from Putra Bus Station, opposite the Putra World Trade Centre, and Pekeliling Bus Station. Banguan MARA Bus Station serves destinations to the south. Getting There By Rail Keretapi Tanah Melayu – KTM (tel: (03) 2267 1200; website: www.ktmb.com.my) operates the rail services in Peninsula Malaysia. These are fast and efficient, although prone to derailments and land/mudslides on longer journeys. There is a national rail enquiries line for both InterCity and Kommuter journeys (tel: (03) 2267 1200). The KL Sentral Station (tel: (03) 2730 2000; e-mail: info@klsentral.com.my; website: www.klsentral.com.my), which opened in 2001 and is located one and a half kilometres (one mile) northwest of the city centre, has seceded Kuala Lumpur Railway Station as the city’s main station. Facilities at this high-tech station include ATMs, bureau de change, left-luggage and tourist information. Kuala Lumpur Sentral Station is part of a massive multi-million Dollar development, which will incorporate hotels, offices, retail outlets, residential property and recreational facilities by 2010. Intercity trains, apart from the luxurious Eastern and Oriental Express (website: www.orient-express.com), no longer stop at Kuala Lumpur Railway Station. Rail services: The main routes from Kuala Lumpur are south to Singapore (journey time – 7 hours) and north to Bangkok (journey time – 14 hours 30 minutes) via Butterworth (journey time – 7 hours). It is only possible for travellers to reach Kota Bharu on Malaysia’s northeast coast by travelling via Gemas (journey time – 12 hours), southwest of Kuala Lumpur. A KTM Railpass, allowing unlimited travel on any berth of train (except sleeping), is available to overseas visitors. The cost is RM450 for 30 days or RM210 for ten days. The world famous Eastern and Oriental Express (website: www.orient-express.com) connects KL with Singapore to the south and Bangkok to the north, with the journey as important as the destination and an emphasis on five-star luxury, gourmet food and smooth service. Transport to the city: Taxis to the city centre cost RM5-7 (journey time – 10-15 minutes). Putra LRT (tel: (03) 469 8228; website: www.putralrt.com.my) operates a light rail service direct from Kuala Lumpur Sentral to various stops in the city. Access to stations on the STAR LRT (tel: (03) 4294 2550; e-mail: star@starlrt.po.my) route is via Masjid Jamek station. KTM Kommuter trains (tel: (03) 2267 1200; website: www.ktmb.com.my), serving destinations to the west, south and north, also run direct from the station. The KL Monorail (tel: (03) 2272 3801; website: www.monorail.com.my) might finally open in 2003, after numerous delays. This will connect the station with city centre destinations. Getting Around Public Transport Kuala Lumpur has a fast, efficient and cheap public transport system, which is comprised of many different forms of transport. Keretapi Tanah Melayu – KTM (tel: (03) 2267 1200; website www.ktmb.com.my) operates two KTM Kommuter lines. These electric trains run from Sentul to Port Klang and Rawang to Seremban, between 0500-2400. Fares depend on the distance travelled and cost RM1.50-RM5.50 for a single journey. Return fares and 12-trip tickets are also available. Each station has an easy-to-use ticket machine. KTM offers two day passes, the Kembara Ticket at RM10 for unlimited travel within the KTM network on weekends, and the Mana Mana Ticket at RM5 for unlimited travel within the KTM network during weekdays. These are available from the KTM vending machines at the stations. There are also two Light Railway Transit (LRT) lines in the city. Two separate conglomerates ran these mainly elevated electric trains until September 2002, when the people behind Putra LRT bought out STAR LRT. STAR LRT (tel: (03) 4294 2550; e-mail: star@starlrt.po.my) trains run south from Sentul Timur to Sri Petaling and Ampang in the east. Putra LTR (tel: (03) 469 8228; website: www.putralrt.com.my) trains run between the Putra Terminal in the northeast of the Lembah Subang Depot on Kuala Lumpur’s western outskirts. Services operate weekdays 0600-2400, weekends 0730-2300. Fares depend on which company is operating the service and distances travelled, costing from RM0.70 to RM4.50 for a single journey. However, this might change after the hand over of ownership is finally completed. Each station has an easy-to-use ticket machine. Cityliner (tel: (03) 7982 6904) and Intrakota (tel: (03) 707 7771; website: www.transweb.com.my/intrakota/destination.htm) are the main providers of Kuala Lumpur’s comprehensive and highly complex bus service. Although routes vary, main services generally run between 0500 and 2400. Each company operates a different fare system, with fares ranging from RM0.60 to RM1 and tickets are purchased on board (exact change is preferred). Bus route maps are displayed at many bus stops throughout the city. The elevated KL Monorail (tel: (03) 2272 3801; website: www.monorail.com.my) should have opened in 1999. However, after numerous delays, it appears that it might finally open this year (2003). The monorail will serve destinations from Titiwangsa in the north to Kuala Lumpur’s Sentral Station (tel: (03) 2260 6322; e-mail: info@klsentral.com.my; website: www.klsentral.com.my) and will also cover destinations in the Golden Triangle. Taxis Taxis can be pre-booked from KL Outstation Taxi (tel: (03) 238 3525), or hailed on the street. Taxi ranks are also found throughout the city. Queues at the ranks are especially long during rush hour. All taxis have meters, which most drivers willingly use. If the taxi does not have a meter or the driver refuses to use the meter, it is advisable to wait for the next available taxi. Taxi drivers touting for business at main transport terminals should be avoided. During thunderstorms, many taxis will only take passengers for an agreed flat fare and will refuse to use meters. The meter rate starts at RM2 for the first two kilometres and rises RM0.10 for each subsequent 200m (656ft). Pre-ordered taxis incur a surcharge of RM1. Journeys made between 0000-0600 incur a 50% surcharge. Surcharges of RM1 for each piece of luggage carried in the car boot and RM0.20 for more than two passengers are also levied. Passengers are responsible for any road tolls incurred. Tips are not generally expected or given. Limousines These can be hired at the airport through Airport Limousine (tel: (03) 8787 1010; e-mail: tarrif@airportlimomalaysia.com; website: www.airportlimomalaysia.com) and at most luxury hotels. Limousines to the city from Kuala Lumpur International Airport cost RM91.20. Hire for a day costs approximately RM360. Driving in the City Driving in Kuala Lumpur is increasingly becoming as hair-raising as driving in other South East Asian cities is. The roads are in good condition and driving standards are reasonably good, however, the maze of one-way systems comprising the city centre and the large number of fuel-choked traffic jams make patience and a good road map essential requirements. Car parks are generally located at large hotels and city-centre shopping malls. Three central public car parks are Asia Park on Jalan Bukit Bintang, and the two car parks behind the Dorsett Regency Hotel just off Jalan Imbi (opening times 0700-0100). The cost is RM2 for the first hour and then RM1.50 for each subsequent hour. Car Hire A national driving licence is required to hire a car in Malaysia, it is also advisable to hold an International Driving Permit. Age limits apply and drivers must usually be at least 23 years old and have held a full driving licence for two years. Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) from RM15 per day is usually compulsory, with Personal Accident Insurance (PAI) from RM6 per day and Theft Protection from RM15 per day as recommended extras. Major providers include Avis (tel: (03) 8787 4087 or 2141 7144; website: www.avis.com.my) and Hertz (tel: (03) 8787 4572 or 2148 6433); website: www.hertz.com.my). Hire of a standard saloon car costs from RM190 per day and RM950 per week. Bicycle & Scooter Hire Kuala Lumpur is not a safe city in which to travel around on two wheels. Incidence of road accidents involving bicycles, scooters and motorcycles are high. The Malaysian tourism promotion board's official line is that two-wheel transport is not generally available for hire. Business Business Profile Malaysia has come a long way since gaining independence in 1957, with the country’s economy rapidly transformed from a largely rural-based system into a progressive urban-based economy. The main industries today are petroleum oil production, forestry, manufacturing and palm oil production. Palm oil expected to generate up to 40% more export revenue in 2003 than it did in 2002 and Malaysia the world’s largest producer. The tourism and hi-tech industries have also come to the fore over the last decade. The 1997 recession hit Malaysia hard and many sectors of the economy are still recovering. As the national currency (the Ringgit) devalued, GNP fell to around - 7%. In Kuala Lumpur, major transport developments like the Express Rail Link (ERL), Sentral Station and the Monorail were put on hold. Astute fiscal management has brought the country back on track, quicker than many analysts expected. Although the economy is not expected to experience the same high levels of growth as it did in the heady pre-1997 days, it has weathered the storm and now seems to be working to more stable and realistic targets. A more holistic approach to the economy and a committed government National Economic Recovery Plan have paid dividends, with the World Bank expecting an increased level of GDP at 5% for 2003, up from the end of 2002’s anticipated 3.5%. Industry continues to be the main employer in Kuala Lumpur and the city’s unemployment rate at 3.8% in August 2002 is much the same as the country’s, which stood at 4% in August 2002. The massive Multimedia Super Corridor (MSC) development – part of Prime Minister Dr Mahathir Mohamad’s Vision 2020 – continues amid a series of delays and downsizing. Managed by the government-appointed Multimedia Development Corporation (website: www.mdc.com.my), this project’s ambitious goals are to attract the world’s leading multimedia organisations to a 15-kilometre wide and 50-kilometre long Multimedia Super Corridor, stretching from Kuala Lumpur City Centre to Kuala Lumpur International Airport. This would effectively place Malaysia and indeed the city at the forefront of technological excellence, innovation and research. The worldwide downturn in the technology industry has left the MSC’s future uncertain, with many analysts suggesting a delayed implementation of the 20-year plan at best and a considerable downscaling at worst. One current economic problem is the fallout from the October 2002 Bali bombings, which impacted upon Malaysia’s increasingly important tourist industry. Much depends on what happens next and if there are any more attacks in the region at a time when Malaysia had been very successful in attracting new business and investing heavily on promotion. With Prime Minister Dr Mahathir Mohamad also on the cusp of retirement, much of Malaysia and KL’s future economic fortunes will depend on the new balance of power and whether anyone can fill the big boots of the man who has led the country for so long. The main business district in Kuala Lumpur is KLCC, which stands for Kuala Lumpur City Centre. The area around KLCC and Jalan Bukit Bintang, where many of the expensive five-star hotels and shopping malls are located, is collectively called ‘The Golden Triangle’. Petronas is the biggest company in the country, concentrating mainly in oil and related industries but increasingly diversifying into other sectors. Big domestic players are Bank Negara and Maybank in finance, and Gamuda, Ekovest and YTL in construction. Major international companies with a presence in Kuala Lumpur include Nestle, Carlsberg and Guinness. Business Etiquette All business meetings, however informal, would be conducted at the office or in neutral venues such as restaurants. Business office hours are usually 0900-1700 Monday to Friday, although government departments tend to close earlier. Despite the high humidity levels, suit and tie is the norm for men and smart dress for women, although concessions are usually made for visiting foreign businesspeople unused to the tropical conditions. English is the main business language in Kuala Lumpur, with most businesspeople (at all levels and in all sizes of company) at least competent in English. Any attempts to use a few Bahasa Malaysian conversational words are greatly appreciated and can break the ice quickly. One key aspect to remember is that it is considered inappropriate to use the left hand for handshakes or handing over documents, as this is traditionally used for cleaning after toilet use. Business cards are also an essential prerequisite to any business meeting, no matter how informal, and should be handed over with both hands. Malaysians are quite conservative when it comes to business and clients are not often invited home. As Malaysia is a Muslim country many local businessmen and women will not drink alcohol during lunch or dinner meetings. However, it is acceptable for non-Muslims to do so, in moderation. It is also important for visitors to be careful when choosing gifts, as obvious things like alcohol are a definite non-starter and less obvious gifts like watches, associated with death by many ethnic Chinese, might also offend. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview The heart of the city is around Datran Merdeka (Independence Square) and this open space makes a good starting point for a city tour. The square is dominated by a towering flagpole, commemorating independence from Britain on 31 August 1957 – the day when the new Malaysian flag replaced the Union Jack. Also on the square, the Royal Selangor Club is an excellent example of colonial architecture, while the Sultan Abdul Samad Building (the seat of the high and supreme courts) is an intriguing mix of Victorian and Moorish architecture. Elsewhere around the city, in striking contrast to the British-built architecture, are the stunning Masjid Negara (National Mosque) and Masjid Jamek (Friday Mosque). The ornate Kuala Lumpur Railway Station is something of a hybrid of the two, looking more like a dreamy Moorish palace than a transport hub. Those looking to get an insight into the layout of the city should ascend to either the observation level of the Petronas Towers or the viewing platform at the Menara Observation Tower. Although admission is RM15, the latter is a better option, seeing as the observation level at Petronas is only approximately a third of the way up. Menara Observation Tower also has a restaurant, a café and small museum. KL’s harmonious ethnic diversity is one of its greatest charms and a visit to the divergent areas of the city is essential. Chinatown, with its traditional shops and lively night market, Masjid India (Little India) and the Art Deco Central Market, which showcases cultural displays and Malaysian arts and crafts, all shed light on their respective communities. The main attractions in the Golden Triangle business, hotel and shopping district are the towering Petronas Twin Towers themselves, the KLCC Park and the fashionable and vibrant Jalan Bukit Bintang and Jalan Sultan Ismail. An unlikely newcomer on the tourist route is the western suburb of Bangsar Baru. Located near the new Kuala Lumpur Sentral Station, the pavement cafés of Bangsar are popular with visitors and locals alike and are increasingly becoming the place to see and be seen. Tourist Information Malaysia Tourism Centre (MTC) 109 Jalan Ampang Tel: (03) 2164 3929. Fax: (03) 2162 1149. E-mail: tourism@tourism.gov.my Website: www.tourism.gov.my Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. The main tourist office looks more like a tourist resort than an information centre. There are restaurants and craft shops but unfortunately the commercialism continues to the desk staff, who are often more interested in organising guided tours or trips around the country rather than dispensing useful information about the city. There are additional tourist information offices in Plaza Putra (on the southern edge of Independence Square) and at KLIA. Passes There are no tourist passes currently available in Kuala Lumpur. Key Attractions Masjid Jamek (Friday Mosque) The Friday Mosque, the city’s oldest, is situated astride the confluence of the Klang and Gombak Rivers (at the point where the first Europeans scrambled ashore), and is one of the most stunning and popular sights in the city. The best time to visit is at sunset or during the muezzin’s call to prayer, which echoes around the ornate domes and palm trees, lending the mosque an air of calm amongst the skyscrapers. When visiting any of Kuala Lumpur’s mosques it is essential to dress conservatively and remove footwear. Jalan Tun Perak Transport: Masjid Jamek LRT station. Opening hours: Mon-Thurs, Sat and Sun 0830-1230 and 1430-1600, Fri 0830-1100 and 1430-1600. Admission: Free. Masjid Negara (National Mosque) In complete contrast to the Friday Mosque, the National Mosque is a modern mosque, built in 1965, which gleams every bit as brilliantly as any of Kuala Lumpur’s skyscrapers. The main dome is moulded in the shape of an 18-point star to represent the 13 states of Malaysia and the five central Pillars of Islam. The huge main prayer hall can hold up to 10,000 worshippers, although this section of the mosque is closed to non-worshippers. To the rear is a mausoleum holding the remains of some of Malaysia’s most revered sons. Lake Gardens Transport: Pasar Seni LRT station. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Admission: Free; visitors are not allowed during prayer times. Kuala Lumpur Railway Station Veteran train traveller and writer Paul Theroux summed up this unique building when he called it ‘the grandest station in South East Asia’. The 1911 Kuala Lumpur Railway Station is an extraordinary architectural mélange – a kind of Walt Disney meets Moorish British colonialism. The riot of minarets, towers, arches and spires make starting or ending a journey here, or even just visiting the station, a breathtaking pleasure. Sadly InterCity trains no longer stop at the station, however, it is still serving as a KTM Kommuter station, a refuelling stop and passenger pick-up point for the grand Eastern and Oriental Express. Making a special trip to see this luxurious locomotive pull in, fill its water tanks and ease out again is a memorable experience. Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin Tel: (03) 227 46063. Website: www.keretapi.com/the-kuala-lumpur-railway-station.html Transport: KTM Kommuter train, Pasar Seni LRT station. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. Central Market The Art Deco Central Market was built in 1928 and spent many years as the home of the city’s largest fresh produce market. Since 1986, the needs of tourism have taken over with 130 arts and crafts shops, as well as regular cultural performances on the riverside stage. Mercifully, some authentic Malaysian food outlets have managed to survive alongside the tourist-orientated eating places. Jalan Hang Kasturi Website: www.melewar.com/central Transport: Central Market LRT station. Opening hours: Daily 1000-2200. Admission: Free. Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia For those with even a passing interest in Islamic art, the Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia is an essential stop. Domestic Islamic architectural styles are well covered across the three floors of museum space and there are also scale models of the Taj Mahal and the Amir Timur Mausoleum. The Ottoman Room contains various artefacts from the days when this powerful Islamic empire threatened the gates of Vienna and the rest of Western Europe. The Al-Quran and Manuscripts Gallery boasts over 200 Islamic manuscripts. Jalan Lembah Perdana Tel: (03) 2274 2020. Fax: (03) 2274 0529 E-mail: info@iamm.org.my Website: www.iamm.org.my Transport: Seni LRT. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission: RM8. Petronas Twin Towers Depending on whose measurement system is used, the Petronas Twin Towers may or may not be the tallest building in the world, although the title is soon to be lost to the Shanghai World Financial Centre. Either way, since it was opened in 1997, the towers have become one of the city’s main symbols, looming into the heavens and often lost in cloud when the afternoon thunderstorms rumble in. Standing 452m (1483ft) high, the building (designed by Cesar Pelli) consists of two similarly shaped towers joined by a 58m (192ft) Skybridge at the 41st and 42nd floors, which are open to visitors wanting to survey the city skyline. Jalan Ampang Tel: (03) 2051 5000. Website: www.petronas.com.my Transport: KLCC LRT station. Opening hours: Tues-Thurs, Sat and Sun 1000-1245 and 1500-1645, Fri 1000-1215. Admission: Free. Muzium Negara (National Museum) Since 1963 the National Museum has been an essential stop for anyone interested in delving beyond the skyscrapers and discovering more about the rich history and culture of Malaysia. The exhibitions present the history of the country, while the building itself incorporates various different Malaysian architectural styles and craftwork from different parts of the nation, making the National Museum an embodiment of the many aspects of Malaysia. Jalan Damansara Tel: (03) 2282 6255. Fax: (03) 2282 7294. E-mail: info@museum.gov.my Website: www.museum.gov.my Transport: Bangsar LRT station. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Admission: RM1. Tugu Negara (National Monument) The National Monument – an impressive brass sculpture designed by an American, cast in Italy and erected in Kuala Lumpur in 1966 – is one of the world’s largest free-standing sculptures. The heroic soldiers that it depicts were engaged in ‘The Emergency’ in the 1950s, when Malaysia battled with communist insurgents. The monument is currently under wraps during a renovation programme but is slated to re-open by summer 2003. Lake Gardens Transport: Pasar Seni LRT station. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. Further Distractions Taman Tasik Perdana (Lake Gardens) The Lake Gardens date back as far as 1888, when the British colonials built their elegant houses around the landscaped gardens. Today, the focus of the 68-hectare (172-acre) oasis is the boating lake but other highlights include the Orchid Garden, Hibiscus Garden, Deerpark, Bird Park and Butterfly Park (this massive collection, with over 6000 butterflies from 140 species, claims to be the largest in Asia). Lake Gardens Transport: Pasar Seni LRT station. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours (Lake Gardens); daily 0900-1800 (parks). Admission: Free. RM2-6 entrance to parks and gardens. Little India Explore beyond the Malay mores that Kuala Lumpur wears so proudly on its sleeve and there are traces of a multitude of other cultures that blossom in the city, such as Little India. This historic district is full of colourful streets, especially Jalan Masjid India, which boasts an Indian Muslim mosque as well as sidewalk artists, street traders and shops. Little India, Jalan Masjid India Transport: Masjid Jamek LRT station. Millionaires Row Known locally as either Millionaires Row or Ambassadors Row, Jalan Ampang is lined with the luxurious mansions of the old colonialists who grew rich on the wealth generated by the tin trade. Today, many of these dwellings have been converted into embassies and consulates giving it its alternative name. Curiously, few visitors explore this area even though it gives a lucid insight into the embryonic years of the city. Many of the grand buildings have been given face-lifts over last few years, making it an even more attractive tourist spot. Jalan Ampang Transport: Sultan Ismail LRT station. Tours of the City Walking Tours Although it is possible to walk around specific areas of Kuala Lumpur quite easily, such as China Town or Masjid Little India, the busy main roads that crisscross the city can make any attempt at a comprehensive walking tour daunting, so this is not recommended. It is much safer to use one of the many available public transport options to travel between sights. Tour East (tel: (04) 227 4522; fax: (04) 227 4755; website: www.toureast.net) offers a three-hour evening stroll and dinner tour, costing RM220 (including dinner). Running daily from January to March, the tours commence with a walk around the Central Market, culminating with a trip to the Kuala Lumpur Tower for a dinner at the revolving restaurant. Pick up and drop off at city hotels is included. Bus Tours Reliance Travel (tel: (03) 2711 1000; Fax: (03) 2710 8366; website: www.reliancetravel.com) offers Kuala Lumpur City Tours, with free pick-ups from numerous hotels throughout Kuala Lumpur. These three-hour tours cost RM30. Stops include a handicraft centre, the Golden Triangle, the National Museum, Kuala Lumpur Railway Station, Masjid Jamek, the Sultan Abdul Samad Building and the National Mosque. Reliance can also arrange airport transport and onward travel. Many hotels hold details of other city tours, as does the tourist information office (see Tourist Information). Excursions For a Half Day Batu Caves: The limestone Batu Caves, 13km (eight miles) north of Kuala Lumpur, is the most popular excursion from the city. Today, much of the most visited part of the cave complex is made up of Hindu temples. It is a steep 272-step climb to the main Temple Cave, while the Dark Cave boasts some stunning rock formations and the Museum Cave recreates scenes from Indian mythology. Every February, during the holy festival of Thaipusam, the caves attract as many as 80,000 Hindu devotees and curious onlookers. The journey to the Batu Caves takes 30 minutes by bus 11D from the Central Market. Masjid Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah (Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah State Mosque). Situated 30km (18 miles) west of Kuala Lumpur in Shah Alam, Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah State Mosque sits in ten hectares (30 acres) of landscaped gardens. This computer-designed mosque is the largest in Malaysia and reputedly in Southeast Asia. Built in 1988, the mosque is an appealing combination of traditional Islamic and ethnic Malay architecture. Its most striking features are the gleaming blue aluminium dome, which is a staggering 92m (302ft) high, and its four towering minarets. Buses run to the mosque from Klang bus station. Alternatively take the Port Klang bound Kommuter train to Shah Alam and then take a bus or taxi to the mosque. The mosque is open Monday to Thursday from 0800-1200 and 1400-1600 and on Fridays from 1500-1630. Entrance is free. For a Whole Day Sunway Lagoon Themepark: Located just outside Kuala Lumpur, in Petaling Jaya, the Sunway Lagoon Themepark (tel: (03) 5635 8000; fax: (03) 5635 5050; website: www.sunway.com.my) is built on redeveloped mining land. The main attraction is the Waterpark – with its large surfing pool and a diverse range of water rides. Surf boards, tubes, body boards and boogie boards can also be hired. The other two parks – The Adventure Park and Fort Lagoon Wild Wild West – are dry parks offering exciting white-knuckle rides. The park is open Monday and Wednesday to Friday 1100-1800, Saturday and Sunday, public holidays and Malaysia school holidays 1000-1800. Adult admission is RM39 and children’s entry is RM26. The Sunway Lagoon Themepark can be reached by bus from the Klang or Puda Raya bus stations or by taxi. Templer’s Park: Established by the British during the colonial years, Templer’s Park, 21km (13 miles) north of Kuala Lumpur, is a 1200-hectare (3000-acre) section of Malaysian jungle where visitors have the chance to explore trails, swim in the pools and relax by waterfalls. Templer’s Park can be reached by bus 66 from Puda Raya bus station in the city centre. The park is open daily, 24 hours, and entrance is free. Hotels Sales tax of 5% and service charge at 10% are added to the bill in most hotels in Kuala Lumpur. Additional tips are not necessary, although it is perfectly acceptable to tip the porter at more expensive hotels. The prices quoted below are the starting price for a standard double room and include sales tax but not service charge. Breakfast is not included, unless otherwise specified. Business JW Mariott Hotel Kuala Lumpur This luxury five-star hotel is located in the heart of the commercial and entertainment area of the city. All of the hotel’s 546 spacious rooms and suites are classically luxurious and comfortable. Rooms are equipped with two-line telephones, modem points, cable TV and mini-bar. Residents on the Executive Level benefit from a private lounge with butler service, pre-dinner drinks and a complimentary continental breakfast. Other features of the hotel include a business centre with full secretarial services, shopping arcade, function rooms, banqueting facilities for up to 1000 people, outdoor swimming pool, tennis court, health spa and reservation service for the Kuala Lumpur Golf and Country Club. 183 Jalan Bukit Bintang Tel. (03) 2715 9000. Fax: (03) 2715 7000. Website: www.marriott.com Price: From RM300. Pan Pacific Airport Hotel Winner of ‘Best Business Airport Hotel in Asia’ in both 2000 and 2002, the Pan Pacific is perfect for visitors short on time or with early morning flights. The hotel is only a five-minute walk from the airport, across a covered walkway, although there is a free shuttle bus for those with a lot of luggage. The 403 rooms and 38 suites are more than comfortable, with all mod cons for business travellers, as well as an outdoor pool, tennis court, fitness centre, Jacuzzi, steam room and sauna for those looking to relax. Conference facilities are impressive for an airport hotel, able to accommodate 1800 delegates for a reception or 1000 for dinner. Jalan CTA 4B Tel: (03) 8787 3333. Fax: (03) 8787 5555. E-mail: klairport@panpacific.com Website: www.panpacific.com Price: From RM270. Shangri-La Hotel This award-winning hotel, located in attractive gardens, is just a five-minutes drive from both the shopping and business districts. It boasts 681 modern, stylish and spacious air-conditioned guest rooms and 39 suites. In-room facilities include voice-mail, TV, mini-bar, movies and safe. The hotel also boasts a modern business centre, commercial library, high-tech audiovisual equipment and extensive conference and banqueting facilities. Other features include a florist, beauty salon, bureau de change, shopping arcade, fitness centre, spa treatments, tennis courts and an outdoor swimming pool. 11 Jalan Sultan Ismail Tel: (03) 232 2388. Fax: (03) 230 1514. E-mail: slkl@shangri-la.com Website: www.shangri-la.com Price: From RM350 (including breakfast). Sheraton Imperial Winner of Bloomberg’s ‘Best Business Hotel in Malaysia’ in 2001 and 2002, the Sheraton Imperial is perfect for business travellers. The hotel is well located in central Kuala Lumpur, close to the main roads, the new monorail and STAR transport. Guest rooms are large –with fax machines in every room – the service is smooth and business facilities include eight conference rooms, catering for functions from 20 to 1000 delegates. Worth the extra cost are the Executive Rooms, which offer the use of a dedicated lounge, with free refreshments all day and cocktails in the evening, as well as complimentary clothes pressing. The Imperial also boasts a string of eateries, the excellent Mandara Spa and a modern gym for guests with a bit of downtime. There are even rubber ducks in the bathrooms – no doubt to soothe stressed-out executives. Jalan Sultan Ismail Tel: (03) 2717 9900. Fax: (03) 2717 9999. E-mail: reservations.imperial@luxurycollection.com Website: www.luxurycollection.com/kualalumpur Price: From RM735 Luxury Hotel Istana Kuala Lumpur’s only ‘Leading Hotels of the World’ hotel is a modern glass and steel construction, handily located in the heart of the city’s business district, the Golden Triangle. The hotel has lost some of its shine in recent years and service standards are sometimes patchy, although it still remains one of the most glamorous addresses in the city. All of the hotel’s 439 rooms and 77 suites are elegant and comfortable, offering guests private safes and spacious bathrooms with deep bathtubs. The hotel’s extensive facilities include conference and banqueting facilities for up to 2000 people, a fully equipped business centre, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre, tennis courts, squash courts and a health spa. 73 Jalan Raja Chulan Tel: (03) 2141 9988. Fax: (03) 2144 0111 or 2149 5500 (reservations). E-mail: histana.hik@meritus-hotels.com Website: www.hotelistana.com.my Price: From RM342. Mandarin Oriental This modern, luxury hotel, situated next to the Petronas Twin Towers in the heart of the business district, was the winner of Business Traveller ‘Best Business Hotel in Asia Pacific’ in both 2000 and 2001. It offers accommodation in 643 deluxe rooms, including 41 suites and 51 exclusive apartments. Many of the rooms have views over the expanse of Kuala Lumpur City Centre Park. In-room features include modem points, two-line telephones and deluxe bathrooms. Guests staying on the Club Floor benefit from complimentary breakfast and evening cocktails, private meeting rooms and a concierge service. All residents have access to the gym, outdoor swimming pool and Jacuzzi, tennis courts and squash courts. Extensive business facilities include banqueting for up to 2400 people, a business centre, two conference rooms and a courier and translation service. The spa facilities are excellent. Kuala Lumpur City Centre, PO Box 10905 Tel: (03) 380 8888. Fax: (03) 380 8833 or (03) 380 6228. E-mail: reserve-mokul@mohg.com Website: www.mandarin-oriental.com/kualalumpur Price: From RM420. Moderate Bintang Warisan This ten-storey, colonial-style hotel is handily located for the shopping and entertainment facilities of Jalan Bukit Bintang. All of the 97 clean and simply furnished rooms are air conditioned with en-suite bathroom, TV and telephone. Additional guest services include safety deposit boxes, postal service, car hire, laundry and an on-call doctor. 68 Jalan Bukit Bintang Tel: (03) 2148 8111. Fax: (03) 2148 2333. E-mail: maxcarry@tm.net.my Website: www.bintangwarisan.com Price: From RM110. Park Inn International Located within easy walking distance of the city’s business and shopping districts, the Park Inn offers accommodation in 431 neutrally decorated and comfortable rooms, including 11 suites. In-room features include TV, in-house films, telephone, mini-bars and en-suite bathrooms. The hotel also offers a travel service, outdoor swimming pool, health club, bureau de change, shopping arcade and a business centre, where guest services include typing, fax, photocopying and Internet access. 51A Changkat Bukit Bintang Tel: (03) 2715 3888. Fax: (03) 2715 1888. E-mail: piikl@pd.jaring.my Website: www.parkinn.com.my Price: From RM158. Other Recommendations Allson Genesis Hotel This boutique hotel has 133 rooms, including business suites with their own kitchenettes, and a penthouse suite. Each of the contemporary rooms has been individually designed and many feature original European artwork. In-room facilities include air conditioning, modem points, TV, mini-bar and safe. Ironing boards, hair dryers and fax machines are also available on request. The hotel’s business centre offers guests full secretarial services and Internet access, and the conference and banqueting facilities can cater for up to 100 people. 45 Tengkat Tong Shin Tel: (03) 2141 2000. Fax: (03) 2141 1000. E-mail: allson-genesis@po.jaring.my Website: www.hotelskualalumpur.net Price: From RM145 (including breakfast). Caracosa Seri Negara Hotel This historic, colonial hotel is a ‘Small Luxury Hotel of the World’ and provides accommodation in 13 exclusive suites. It nestles in attractive landscaped gardens, just a ten-minute drive from the city centre. Famous former guests include the Queen and Prince Philip, who stayed here in 1989 and again in 1998. All the spacious, air-conditioned suites have a private mini-bar, video and CD players, satellite TV, fax machines and modem points. Guest services include a butler, chauffeur, florist and 24-hour room service. The hotel also features an outdoor swimming pool, sauna, tennis courts and five conference rooms complete with high-tech audiovisual equipment. Taman Tasik Perdana, Persiaran Mahameru Tel: (03) 2282 1888. Fax: (03) 2282 7888 or 2282 6868. E-mail: carcosa@mol.net.my Website: www.carcosa.com.my Price: From RM1100. Restaurants The selected restaurants have been divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. The dining scene in Kuala Lumpur represents the dynamic ethnic make-up of the city. Local specialities include Chinese, Nyonya, Malay and Indian cuisine. In addition to 5% sales tax, most restaurants add a 10% service charge. The prices quoted below are for a three-course meal and a bottle of house wine or equivalent. They include sales tax but not service charge. Gastronomic Mahsuri The Caracosa Seri Negara’s signature restaurant, rated as one of the best restaurants in the country by Malaysian Tatler, serves up a winning combination of Asian and continental cuisine. Recommended dishes include Szechuan peppered goose liver, tandoori spiced king prawns and seared duck breast. Guests dine in the refined, air-conditioned dining room or outside on the verandah, which has views of the city skyline. After dinner, residents and diners alike retire to the colonial Titiwangsa Bar, with its cigar divans, ceiling fans and cane chairs. The Sunday curry tiffin is superb value at RM54, where dishes on offer include Tandoori lamb, prawn masala, Sri Lankan fish curry, assorted Indian sweets and papaya lassi. Taman Tasik Perdana, Persiaran Mahameru Tel: (03) 2282 1888. Fax: (03) 2282 7888. E-mail: carcosa@mol.net.my Website: www.carcosa.com.my Price: RM220. Wine: RM100. Rama V Housed in the former Papua New Guinea Embassy, this classy Thai restaurant is situated in a charming garden and overlooks a lake. The restaurant is tastefully decorated with Thai artefacts and the quality of food and service are excellent. The extensive menu features Thai staples, such as green curry, steamed sotong (squid), snapper and delicious prawn tom yam (soup). Behind the main dining hall, which seats 120 people, are five Thai-style private dining huts. 5 Jalan U-Thant, Ampang Tel: (03) 2143 2663. Price: RM110. Wine: RM75. Seri Angkasa The bland and functional decor of this 220-seater restaurant is compensated for by its spectacular views from its lofty locale atop one of the world’s tallest towers. Located 282m (925ft) above ground level in the landmark Menara Tower, this revolving restaurant guarantees diners 360-degree panoramic vistas across the city. For both lunch and dinner visits, there is a choice of either a Malaysian buffet, including satay and nasi goreng (mixed fried rice), or a more Western orientated a la carte menu, with such offerings as steak and chips. The edibles may be nothing special but no one comes here for the food. Menara Tower, Jalan Punchak Tel: (03) 2020 5448. Fax: (03) 2034 2609. E-mail: azhar@menarakl.com.my Website: www.menarakl.com.my Price: RM90. Wine: RM85. Seri Melayu A big favourite with foreign visitors, Seri Melayu is unbeatable for traditional Malay cuisine and culture. Set in landscaped gardens, the restaurant can accommodate up to 500 people, with the nightly cultural show and buffet menu being the biggest attractions. Dining from the extensive buffet is a great way to sample traditional Chinese, Malay and Indian dishes including kari ayam (chicken curry), ikan bilis (fried anchovies), mee rebus (noodles in a rich sauce) and roti canai (tasty Indian bread). Those who like the restaurant enough can buy the T-shirt, literally, at the on-site souvenir shop. 1 Jalan Conlay Tel: (03) 2145 1833. Fax: (03) 2145 1755. E-mail: enquiries@serimelayu.com Website: www.serimelayu.com Price: RM75. Wine: RM75. Taman Sari Literally translated as ‘The Garden of Flowers’, Taman Sari is a first-rate Malaysian restaurant, based at the Istana Hotel. There are 199 covers but things never feel too crowded, with views out over a landscaped garden and a swimming pool. Local delights are cooked immaculately, with highlights including the beef rendang, nasi lemak (rice with coconut milk, boiled with pandan or screw pine leaves) and the koay teoy goreng (flat, white rice noodles). The decor is tasteful with batiks and wicker chairs echoing the Malaysian theme and the service is smooth. 73 Jalan Raja Chulan Tel: (03) 2141 9988, ext. 3667. Fax (03) 2144 0111. E-mail: istana.hik@meritus-hotels.com Website: www.hotelistana.com.my Price: RM100. Wine: RM80. Business Kampachi Reservations are a must at this award-winning Japanese restaurant. The Kampachi, one of Hotel Equatorial’s signature restaurants, has been serving up staple Japanese dishes from Ginza for more than 25 years and also offers some more adventurous dishes like gindara (grilled codfish) and maki (soft-shelled crab). This traditionally decorated restaurant also has a wide selection of set dinners and an impressive Sunday buffet brunch, which features sushi, sashimi and tempura dishes and is priced from RM60. There are also two private tatami rooms. Hotel Equatorial, Jalan Sultan Ismail Tel: (03) 2161 7777. Fax: (03) 2161 9020. E-mail: info@kul.equatorial.com Website: www.equatorial.com Price: RM110. Wine: RM85. Lafite Lafite is the Shangri-La Hotel’s exclusive French restaurant. The standard of food and service are always high, making it a popular venue for business lunches. The chandeliers, tall windows overlooking a garden, fresh flowers and silver service combine to give the restaurant a refined and classical atmosphere. The restaurant offers foie gras, excellent seafood dishes and ornate desserts. The lunch and dinner buffets, which offer a choice from at least six mains, a variety of salads, desserts and a daily roast, begin at RM55 and are good value for money. Shangri-La Hotel, 11 Jalan Sultan Ismail Tel: (03) 232 2388. Fax: (03) 230 1514. E-mail: slkl@shangri-la.com Website: www.shangri-la.com Price: RM120. Wine: RM85. Pacifica Grill and Bar Opened in 1998, the signature restaurant of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel offers diners a cocktail of Asian flavours. The 116-seater restaurant is modern and stylish with an open kitchen. Guests can also book two smaller private dining rooms. Examples of the innovative dishes include lemongrass skewered scallops, black cod fish fillet and barbecue duck tortillas. There is also a trendy bar area with seating for 22 guests. Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Kuala Lumpur City Centre Tel: (03) 380 8888. Fax: (03) 380 8833 or (03) 380 6228. E-mail: mokul-sales@mohg.com Website: www.mandarin-oriental.com/kualalumpur Price: RM110. Wine: RM85. Toh Lee This award-winning Chinese restaurant has around 50 varieties of dim sum on its lunch menu. Must-tries include the steamed har gaw (prawn dumplings), fried taro cake and glutinous rice in a lotus leaf. The chicken, vegetable and beef Szechuan and Cantonese specialities are also very popular. In addition to the spacious and welcoming main restaurant with its 208 seats, there are six private rooms available to diners. Hotel Nikko, 165 Jalan Ampang Tel: (03) 2161 1111. Fax: (03) 2161 1122. E-mail: sales@hotelnikko.com.my or guest@hotelnikko.com.my Website: www.hotelnikko.com.my Price: RM85. Wine: RM75. Villa Danieli Set in the landscaped gardens, alongside the outdoor pool, at the Sheraton Imperial, the Villa Danieli is one of KL’s premier business restaurants. The Italian menu is fresh and creative, with starters the likes of octopus carpaccio or the more traditional tomato and mozzarella salad. The highlights on the main menu are the roasted sea bass fillet and the braised lobster with tomato, bell pepper, basil and chilli. The homemade tiramisu might well be the best in the city. The decor is unfussy and simple – perfect for a relaxed lunch or a more formal evening meal. Sheraton Imperial Hotel, Jalan Sultan Ismail Tel: (03) 2717 9900. Fax: (03) 2717 9999. Price: RM140. Wine: RM70. Trendy Cilantro Cilantro is a stylish fusion restaurant and wine bar decorated in pale green hues. Chef Ken Holm, the man behind the innovative blend of French, Japanese and Asian flavours, hails from Sydney’s Rockpool and Tetsuya’s. The restaurant’s signature dishes include Atlantic sea bass, confit of salmon, braised lamb shank and lime and ginger crème brûlée. Micasa Hotel Apartments, 368B Jalan Tun Razak Tel: (03) 2161 8833. Fax: (03) 2161 1186. E-mail: micasa@po.jaring.my Price: RM90. Wine: RM75. Citrus Rouge The sister restaurant to Scalini’s (see below) is this recently renovated and trendy café, Citrus Rouge, which serves up contemporary European and Asian fare in a funky red, gold and gauzy white dining area. The decor looks more like a James Bond set than a restaurant. Dishes on offer include oysters, sushi rolls, steamed lobster and fantastic salads. Live jazz, the bustling dance floor, fabulous cocktails and the cigar divan are also serve to make Citrus Rouge a popular choice for an evening’s entertainment. 19 Jalan Sultan Ismail Tel: (03) 2142 5188. Fax: (03) 2148 9323. Price: RM70. Wine: RM70. Q*doz Bangsar Baru’s most stylish restaurant and wine bar can seat up to 70 diners and specialises in Oriental and Western fusion food. Recommended dishes served up in the spacious mottled aqua and green dining area include panna cotta of strawberries lightly spiced with green peppercorn, ostrich fillet or lobster and mango salad. The service is impeccable, the food excellent and the wine list extensive, facts that are reflected in the high prices charged by this classy restaurant. 57-59 Jalan Telawi Tiga, Bangsar Baru Tel: (03) 284 3699. Fax: (03) 283 3391. Price: RM100. Wine: RM85. Scalini’s La Piccola Italia Reservations for this contemporary Italian restaurant are essential. Housed in a colonial-style bungalow on a hill overlooking the Golden Triangle, Scalini’s has been transformed into a minimalist restaurant with three distinct dining spaces, ambient lighting and an open pizza kitchen. The stunning decor is by New York design guru Tony Chi. Ever popular are the excellent wood-fired pizzas, home-cooked soups and pastas. Other tempting dishes include foie gras, pan-fried scallops, beef carpaccio and honey-glazed duck breast. 19 Jalan Sultan Ismail Tel: (03) 2145 3211. Price: RM60. Wine: RM65. Shook Shook is a fashionable fusion restaurant, located in the basement of the Starhill Shopping Centre, serving grill, Italian, Chinese and Japanese cuisine. Clean lines, open-plan kitchens set up as counters, unpolished stone walls and a glass-fronted wine cellar distinguish this stylish restaurant. The mellow ambience and fine food are complemented by live jazz and flawless service. Grill mains include steak and lamb shank. The Italian counter offers the perfect pizza margherita and the Chinese and Japanese counters serve up delicious fried rice and tempura. Lower Ground Floor, Starhill Shopping Centre, Jalan Bukit Bintang Tel: (03) 2716 8535. Price: RM90. Wine: RM75. Budget Chow Kit Market During the day, the large and buzzing Chow Kit Market, located at the northern end of Jalan TAR, offers Kuala Lumpur’s biggest food market, selling fruit, vegetables, tofu, spices, meat and fish, as well as live worms, crabs and lobsters. The hawker stalls dish up tasty roti canai and nasi campur (rice served with an array of meat, fish and vegetable dishes). As the day market transforms into a bustling night market, the assortment of food still on offer includes the ever-popular nasi lemak (coconut rice with fried anchovies, peanuts and curry sauce). Jalan Sultan Price: RM6. Wine: Unlicensed. Jalan Alor Jalan Alor is a lively street, running parallel to Jalan Bukit Bintang in the heart of the Golden Triangle. It comes alive every night with the sights and smells of hawker cooking and pavement cafés. This a one-stop street for Cantonese and Parakan food. Dishes to look out for include won ton mee (shredded chicken or braised beef noodle soup), nasi lemak (coconut rice with fried anchovies, peanuts and curry sauce) and delicious chicken satay. Main courses can be washed down with a large cold beer or some exotic fresh fruit. If the proprietor does not sell the dish or drink ordered, he will often go and purchase it from another hawker. Jalan Alor Price: RM6. Beer: RM5. Jalan Masjid India Jalan Masjid India, or Little India, is at the heart of a thriving neighbourhood built up around the district’s mosque. During the day, the hawker stalls along this colourful and vibrant street offer tasty Indian snacks, like samosa, ghulab jamun (sweet dumpling-like dessert) and vadai (a snack made with yellow slit peas, ginger, curry leaves, onions and masala), which can be washed down with the black cincau (grass jelly drink) or pink air bandung (syrup drink). For those wanting a sitdown meal, the numerous budget cafés dish up delicious roti canai, briyani (rice and curry dish) and dhal (curried lentils). Jalan Masjid India Price: RM4. Wine: Unlicensed. Jalan Petaling Delicious hawker food is served all day in the area around Chinatown’s Jalan Petaling. Early risers can feast on steamed dumplings or porridge. By midday, the early-morning hawkers are joined by those selling duck rice and fish ball noodles. In the evening, the streets close to cars and the night market begins. Tables and chairs pour out onto the streets as cafés and hawker stalls cook up grilled satay, fried vegetable noodles and roast chicken, which can be washed down with soya bean milk or cold beer purchased from one of the street cafés. Jalan Petaling Price: RM6. Beer: RM5. Wei Kee Restoran The speciality in this budget restaurant is roast goose, which they claim to import from China; the roast duck is also delicious. The Wei Kee also serves up typical Cantonese dishes and cured foods. The biggest drawback for some in this basic, no-nonsense restaurant may be the absence of air conditioning. For large parties or those wishing to take away, a whole goose can be purchased for around RM75. 50 Lorong Yap Hin Tel: (03) 221 8428. Price: RM14. Wine: Unlicensed. Personal Recommendations Bangsar Seafood Village Just a ten-minute drive from central Kuala Lumpur is buzzing Bangsar Baru. One of the area’s biggest attractions is the popular Bangsar Seafood Village where excellent Chinese-style fish dishes are served in four distinctive spaces: the spacious air-conditioned restaurant, the extensive open-air section, the beer garden or the budget Claypot Corner. Signature dishes include baked crab in butter sauce, tiger prawns and mango chicken. More adventurous diners tuck into the shark’s fin soup, mushrooms with sea cucumber or the claypot curry fish head. Lot 43873, Jalan Telawi Empat, Bangsar Baru Tel: (03) 2282 2555 or 2284 3812. Fax: (03) 2284 4827. Price: RM60. Wine: RM65. Bon Ton One of the city’s eating institutions since it opened in 1987, Bon Ton is housed in an old Chinese bungalow and has been renovated with ethnic furnishings. The cuisine typically combines international and Melacca Straits Chinese or Nyonya flavours. Highly recommended are the chicken and three-mushroom pie, pan-fried sole fillet, Nyonya laksa (yellow noodles in a thick curry sauce with coconut, prawns, fish cake, quails egg and fried bean curd, spiced with ginger and garlic) and the constantly changing local set menu. Other attractions in this relaxed and welcoming restaurant are the impressive views of the Petronas Twin Towers and the frequent exhibitions of local art. 7 Jalan Kia Peng Tel: (03) 2141 3611. Fax: (03) 2142 0633. Price: RM90. Wine: RM75. Celestial Court One of the city’s best upmarket Chinese restaurants, Celestial Court offers a wide range of mainly Cantonese dishes, served up in a smart room, which incorporates aspects of traditional Chinese architecture into a bright modern space. Crispy duck and Szechuan chicken are done well, although adventurous diners may want to delve into the delights of shark fin soup, octopus with jelly fish and boiled bird’s nest. Tables are well spread out and an air of calm pervades, making this the perfect venue for entertaining clients with serious business in mind. Sheraton Imperial, Jalan Sultan Ismail Tel: (03) 2717 9900. Fax: (03) 2717 9999. Price: RM150. Wine: RM70. Eden Village Restaurant This award-winning seafood restaurant is located on the edge of the Golden Triangle. Built in the style of a Malay house, it is famous for its shark’s fin dishes. Other favourites, served by waitresses wearing traditional dress, include kingdom of the sea (half a lobster baked with prawns, crab and cuttlefish), steak, and Western-style seafood dishes like Niçoise salad and New Zealand mussels. The sizeable wine list features mainly French, Italian and Australian wines. Tables on the terrace are particularly sought after. Lot 260, Jalan Raja Chulan Tel: (03) 2141 4027. Fax: (03) 2141 3408. Price: RM80. Wine: RM75. Kapitan’s Club One of Kuala Lumpur’s most engaging restaurants, Kapitan’s Club is housed in an old colonial building, where the antiques and old-style furniture have been carefully restored. Reputedly named after the founder of Kuala Lumpur, the restaurant specialises in dishes from the Melacca Straits region of Malaysia. The kapitan chicken (Nyonya chicken curry) is a must and the beef rendang and claypot fish head are also highly recommended. For diners who find the Nyonya dishes too adventurous, the Kapitan’s Club also serves up a wide range of Western dishes, including pasta and steak. 35 Jalan Ampang Tel: (03) 201 0242. Fax (03) 201 0637. Price: RM50. Wine: RM50. Sport The national sport in Malaysia has traditionally been badminton, although football is increasingly replacing it in terms of player numbers and certainly television audience figures, with every move of Manchester United religiously followed. Badminton may still make the sport pages of all the newspapers but live English Premiership football blasts around the city’s bars, hotels and even hawker centres with disturbing regularity, while replica English football tops are en vogue. Kuala Lumpur’s own eponymous football team, Kuala Lumpur, play in the Premier One league at the KLFA Stadium, Jalan Yacob Ladif, Cheras (tel: (03) 9131 5757), and are currently one of the best teams in the country. Kuala Lumpur’s recent sporting highlight came with the successful staging of the 1998 Commonwealth Games. Winning the rights to stage the first ever Formula One Grand Prix in South East Asia was another impressive achievement of the go-getting Malaysian government. Each March, the Sepang International Circuit (tel: (03) 8526 2222; website: www.malaysiangp.com) plays host to the world’s top racing drivers. The state-of-the-art circuit also hosts a round of the FIM Motorcycle Grand Prix and the Grand Touring Championship as well as rally and adventure events. More traditional sports like sepak takraw (a kind of volleyball with feet rather than hands) are on the way out, with many youngsters losing interest – Malaysia, the birthplace of sepak takraw, is now second best to its neighbour, Thailand. There is no umbrella ticketing organisation in Kuala Lumpur and tickets to sporting events can be purchased direct from the venue or upon arrival. Bowling: Ten-pin bowling is very popular in Kuala Lumpur, with rinks in some of the shopping malls. At the heart of the Golden Triangle the Federal Hotel (tel: (03) 2148 9166), Jalan Bukit Bintang, has ten-pin bowling, as does Yow Chuan Plaza, Jalan Tun Razak. Fitness Centres: Most top and mid-range hotels have their own fitness centres. Amongst the best public fitness centres are the chain of clubs aptly named the Sweat Clubs. These are located in the Mid Valley Megamall (tel: (03) 2284 3833), MiCasa Shoppes (tel: (03) 2161 1757) and the Renaissance Hotel (tel: (03) 2161 3323). Golf: Golf lovers are well catered for in Kuala Lumpur, with a number of courses dotted around the outskirts of the city. Depending on availability, most courses are happy to take visiting golfers with fees paid per round. The 32-hole Kuala Lumpur Golf and Country Club, off Jalan Bukit Kiara (tel: (03) 253 1111; website: www.simenet.com/klgcc), is open to non-members with green fees from RM180. The Royal Selangor Golf Club, off Jalan Tun Razak (tel: (03) 984 8433), is a members-only club that is also open to guests of the city’s luxury hotels. Green fees start at RM250 and include a caddy. Near the domestic airport is the Saujana Golf and Country Club, Saujana Resort Sekyen U2, Shah Alam (tel: (03) 746 1466), where green fees are from RM170. Swimming: Most hotels charging over RM200 a night will have their own swimming pool. Alternatively, there are public swimming pools at Bangsar Sports Complex, 3 Jalan Terasek and at Chin Woo Stadium, off Jalan Hang Jebat (tel: (03) 232 4602). Tennis: The top hotels will have at least one tennis court. Alternatively, there are tennis courts for hire at Bangsar Sports Complex, 3 Jalan Terasek, and at Kampung, Datuk Keramat, Taman Keramat (tel: (03) 4256 4853). Shopping Kuala Lumpur is a shopping paradise with an eclectic spectrum of retail opportunities, from air-conditioned mega malls right through to the frenetic street markets. Prices are excellent in both and haggling is the norm in the street markets and even in some of the malls, where bulk discounts are also on offer. The city overflows with malls, the scale of which is impressive – bowling alleys, discos, cinemas and even, in one, a canal, add a surreal element to the shopping experience. Many of the malls are located on Jalan Bukit Bintang. Here visitors can pick up electrical goods in Bukit Bintang Plaza, a wide range of clothing and footwear in Lot 10, designer bargains at Star Hill Shopping Centre or explore the boutiques in Kuala Lumpur Plaza. Elsewhere, high fashion blends with one of the world’s highest buildings at the Suria KLCC Shopping Centre, tucked away in the basement of the Petronas Twin Towers. On offer are big designer names, such as Hugo Boss, Laura Ashley and Karl Seeger. KLIA often feels more like a shopping mall than an international airport and now boasts over 70 retail outlets, with first-rate duty-free shopping. A galaxy away from the malls are the night markets. Vision KL Magazine publishes a regular update on where and when the best markets are, with the only constant remaining the nightly Jalan Petaling. This Chinatown bulwark peddles CDs, electrical equipment, perfume, watches and clothing, as well as some of the city’s best hawker fare. The best souvenirs are traditional handicrafts like pewterware. The factory outlet of Kuala Lumpur’s own distinctive Royal Selangor Pewter (website: www.royalselangor.com) is open to the public from 0800-1700 daily, 4 Jalan Ushawan Enam, with free guided tours preceding access to the factory outlet and the world’s largest tankard, which is on display. Batik (Indonesian dyed cloth) may have its roots across the Malacca Straits in Indonesia but today Kuala Lumpur offers some excellent quality batik. A range of batik is found at Central or in Kompleks Budaya Kraf, Jalan Conlay. Most shops are open 0900-1700 daily, with the malls open later from 1000-2200. Some shops close on Sundays but all of the malls are open. Sales tax is generally around 10%, although some products are taxed at 5% or 15%, or are exempt from sales tax. Tax-free shopping is available; if notified before payment, the shop will give the visitor a form, which can be presented at the airport for refund upon departure. Culture Over the last few years traditional arts and culture have made a comeback in Kuala Lumpur. All over the city small-scale performances are rubbing shoulders with the more slick revues at theatres and at the Central Market, Jalan Hang Kasturi (tel: (03) 230 8548), the scene of tourist-orientated fortune telling, shadow puppets and batik painting demos. The city is also home to the nation’s most renowned orchestra, the Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra, which performs regularly. Despite this renaissance in local culture, Western cinema and music still dominate, especially among the younger generation. The monthly Vision KL Magazine gives listings on events and performances taking place in the city. There is no umbrella ticketing agency for cultural events in Kuala Lumpur. Tickets are purchased direct from the venue. Music: For classical music concerts, the main venue in town is Dewan Filharmonik Petronas, in the Petronas Twin Towers complex (tel: (03) 2051 7007; website: www.dfpmpo.com). Malaysia’s first classical concert hall, this is home to the Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra and also hosts other major classical concerts as well as cultural performances. Theatre: The move of Malaysia’s Panggung Negara (National Theatre) to the massive new Istana Budaya theatre, Jalan Tun Razak (tel: (03) 4025 5932; website: www.istanabudaya.gov.my), has revolutionised Kuala Lumpur’s theatre scene. With seating for almost 1500 people the RM210-million state-of-the-art venue is amongst the best in the world. On a smaller scale, the Actor’s Studio Theatre, Independence Square, Plaza Putra (tel: (03) 2694 5400 or (03) 2692 5927; website: www.theactorsstudio.com.my), is a flexible space with all sorts of performances and even some comedy. Two of the most innovative theatre groups are Dramalab (website: www.emuang.org/Dramalab) and Instant Café (tel: (03) 2148 5192). Dance: Traditional dance, such as Menora (all masked men) or Mak Yong (all masked women), is sometimes performed, however, there is no one venue or organisation taking charge of this. Some hotels and the Central Market, Jalan Hang Kasturi (tel: (03) 230 8548), also stage visiting regional dancers. Film: Kuala Lumpur has many cinemas spread throughout the city, most with performances in English. The most central include Central Market, Jalan Hang Kasturi (tel: (03) 230 8548), and Rex, Jalan Sultan (tel: (03) 201 6812). The TGV hotline (tel: (03) 7492 2929) provides information and bookings across Kuala Lumpur, while comprehensive listings are also available in English at Cinema Online (website: www.cinema.com.my). Cultural events: Owing to the large number of ethnic groups, there are various cultural and religious events around the city throughout the year. Hindus celebrate Thaipusam at the Batu Caves in February, with the bizarre spectacle of kavadi bearers who push skewers into their bodies to demonstrate their religious devotion. Chinese New Year, also at this time of year, is characterised by two weeks of loud street festivities and the ubiquitous lion dances. Unsurprisingly, the epicentre is around Jalan Petaling, with many ethnic Chinese ignoring the government efforts to limit festivities to a two-day holiday and instead taking four or five days off. Buddhists have the less flashy celebration of the birth, enlightenment and death of Lord Buddha, with Wesak Day in May. The Jalan Gasing or the International Buddhist Temple are the places for one to witness this. The Muslim majority’s main event is Ramadan, in the Muslim month of the same name (falling on October in 2003), the period of fasting that culminates in Hari Raya Aidilfitri, where Muslims throw open their homes and feast on an array of home-cooked Malay dishes. Dates for all of the religious festivals can change markedly depending on the dictates of each religion’s calendar. All creeds and religions come together to celebrate Malaysian independence on 31 August, with a massive parade that brings the city centre to a halt. Literary Notes As a relatively new city there is a distinct lack of English-language fiction set in Kuala Lumpur. Paul Theroux’s Consul’s File (1977) is an excellent collection of short stories set just outside the city. A Malaysian Journey (1993) is an engaging insight into modern Malaysia. Written by an ex-pat Malaysian journalist, Rehman Rashid, it is the story of his return to his native country. The story follows his travels around Malaysia, examining a plethora of issues as he goes and culminating in his emotive return to modern Kuala Lumpur. Steve and Lee Bristow’s Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur (1994) examines Chinatown’s eclectic history and boasts some excellent photographs. Also delving deep into Malaysia’s intriguing past is the Malayan Trilogy (1984) by Anthony Burgess, where the author examines the state of post-war Malaysia and its struggle towards independence from Britain in 1957. For a general historic overview of Malaysian history, Jim Baker’s Crossroads – A Popular History of Malaysia and Singapore (1999) is comprehensive and easy to digest, compared to some of the more scholarly studies of Malaysian history. Giving a unique insight into the most powerful man in Malaysia, the soon-to-retire Prime Minister Dr Mahathir Mohamad, is his own Voices of Asia (1995), which looks at his pro-Asian views and his controversial opinions on the world economy and where it should be heading. Nightlife With so many different cultures mixing together, the nightlife is anything but dull in Kuala Lumpur. Although Malaysia is a Muslim country, alcohol is freely available in the capital and the nightlife is one of the liveliest in Asia. Strict government controls close many bars by 0100, although some clubs stay open later. The legal drinking age in Kuala Lumpur is 21 years. The average price for a bottle of beer is around RM10-14. Traditional nightlife for many locals still involves a visit to a bustling pasar malam (night market), where the focus is as much on socialising and people watching as it is on shopping, savouring the excellent hawker food and quaffing ice-cold beer. The Saturday market on Jalan Raja Muda is the highlight, although Jalan Petaling in Chinatown nightly closes itself to traffic and is still a local favourite, despite the presence of many tourists. The main area for bars is in the Golden Triangle, where there are many European-style bars and nightclubs inside the luxury hotels – over the last few years, the buzzing Jalan Sultan Ismail–Jalan P Ramlee strip has taken over from Jalan Bukit Bintang as the place to be. The dress code veers towards the relaxed side of smart-casual, except in some of the classier establishments frequented by the city’s yuppie brigade. Bangsar, on the city fringe, is now a serious rival to the city centre, with half a dozen streets of bars and eating places packed with a younger crowd. The monthly Vision KL Magazine gives visitors the low-down on the city’s latest hip nightlife spots. Bars: Good bars in the Golden Triangle include El Nino, 21 Jalan Mayang, which is themed around Latin-American music and culture, and Citrus Rouge, 19 Jalan Sultan Ismail, where live jazz, a bustling dancefloor, fabulous cocktails, cigar divan and stylish restaurant combine to make this one of the hippest places in town. Nearby, Bravo, Crown Regency, Mezzanine Floor, Jalan P Ramlee, is a new bar/café with a real buzz, a sprinkling of pool tables and a small dancefloor. The Beach Club Cafe, 97 Jalan P Ramlee, is a wild and nefarious party place that attracts ex-pats, local students and bar girls, with its cheap drinks and buzzing atmosphere. In the Golden Triangle, abstaining Muslims hang out in the numerous cafés on Jalan Bukit Bintang, near the JW Marriott Hotel. In Bangsar, The Roof, 2 Jalan Telawi 4 and Soleil, 7 Jalan Telawi 4, are the bars to look out for. Finnegan’s, 6 Jalan Telawi 5, has emerged as the ‘in’ venue and is the bar most locals point visitors towards, although the high density of single males seems to have attracted an informal bar-girl scene. (Visitors should note that Bangsar, unlike the rest of the city, is built on a grid and the addresses have two numbers, indicating how many streets up and in.) Casinos: As Malaysia is a Muslim country, there are no casinos in Kuala Lumpur. Clubs: Nightclubs tend to be quite far out of the city and are normally geared towards Kuala Lumpur teenagers, although a number of dancefloors now grace the Golden Triangle. In the city, the best place for a dance is probably the big hotels’ bars. Planet Hollywood and Hard Rock Café also often have dancing after their live music performances (see below). The Embassy, 26 Jalan Ampang, is a bona fide club in the city centre, considered hip by an increasing number of locals and ex-pats. Emporium, 97 Jalan Sultan Ismail, is one of a new breed of clubs in the Golden Triangle, with an outside terrace and both an indoor bar and dancefloor. The KL smart set ease through cocktails on the outdoor terrace, before delving inside to dance to the tunes spun by the ever-changing domestic and international DJ guests. Live music: Unfortunately, in Kuala Lumpur, live music still often means one thing – Karaoke. The city is overrun with Karaoke bars but a few bastions of live music do survive. The Hard Rock Café and Planet Hollywood may not be considered the epitome of cool in many parts of the world but in Kuala Lumpur they are where the trendies troop to, for some live music, although this is often provided by dubious cover bands. Follow the noise to The Hard Rock Café, Concorde Hotel, Jalan Sultan Ismail, and Planet Hollywood, Ground Floor, Kuala Lumpur Plaza, 179 Jalan Bukit Bintang. Often a better bet is TM2, Mutiara Hotel (formerly the Hilton Kuala Lumpur), Jalan Sultan Ismail, which hosts a wide range of live music as well as DJs. City Statistics Location: Western Peninsula Malaysia. Country dialling code: 60. Population: 1.1 million (city); 1.8 million (metropolitan area). Ethnic Mix: 58% Malay, 31% Chinese, 8% Indian, 3% other. Religion: 58% Muslim, 31% Buddhist, 8% Hindu, 3% Christian, Taoist and Sikh. Time zone: GMT + 8. Electricity: 220 volts or 250 volts AC, 50Hz; three-pin flat plugs are standard. Average January temp: 32C (90 F). Average July temp: 32C (90F). Annual rainfall: 2700mm (105 inches). Special Events Thaipusam, Hindu celebration, Jan/Feb, Batu Caves Chinese New Year, temple visits, fireworks, dragon dances and pedestrian parades, Jan/Feb, Chinatown Federal Territory Day, fireworks, streamers and balloons abound as the city celebrates its birthday, 1 Feb, throughout city Malaysia Sevens International Rugby Tournament, Mar, Petaling Jaya Stadium F1 Petronas Malaysia Grand Prix, Mar, Sepang International Circuit Awal Muharram (Muslim New Year), celebrated by attendance at religious talks and performances of spiritual singing or Nasyid, 1 Muharram (Mar 2003/Feb 2004-5/Jan 2006-8), throughout city Wesak Day, Buddhist celebration of the birth of Buddha, May, throughout city, particularly Jalan Gasing and the International Buddhist Temple Prophet Muhammed’s Birthday, processions to show solidarity of believers, 12 Rabi’ I (May 2003-4/Apr 2005-6/Mar 2007-9), throughout city Merdeka Celebrations, a month-long festival celebrating Malaysia’s independence, Aug-Sep, throughout city Merdeka Eve Celebrations, celebration of Malaysia’s independence with carnival-style festivities and a countdown to midnight, 30-31 Aug, Independence Square Moon Festival, Chinese celebration of the 15th night of the eighth lunar month, with colourful lanterns and gifts of moon cakes, Sep, Chinatown Ramadan, Muslim fasting, throughout Ramadan (Oct 2003-5/Sep 2006-8), throughout the city Deepavali, the ‘Festival of Light’ is the main Hindu celebration commemorating the triumph of good over evil, when homes light up with oil lamps, Oct/Nov, throughout city Hari Raya Aidilfitri, two days of joyful celebration marking the end of Ramadan, 1-2 Shawwal (Nov 2003-5/Oct 2006-8), throughout city Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival, another discounted shopping bonanza featuring Malaysian Fashion Week and Made in Malaysia exhibition, Dec, throughout city Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: RM2.80 33cl bottle of beer: RM5 Financial Times newspaper: RM9 36-exposure colour film: From RM16 City-centre bus ticket: RM0.60-1 Adult football ticket: RM60 Three-course meal with wine/beer: From RM40 1 Malaysian Ringgit (RM1) = £0.16; US$0.26; C$0.40; A$0.44; €0.24 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.