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_City Overview The ‘Pearl of the Orient’ in the quiet days of Spanish rule, Manila now lets its core of grit show. The city is located on the west coast of the Philippine main island of Luzon and surrounded by fertile plains. The city straddles the delta of the Pasig River, a short navigable stream that connects the freshwater lake of Laguna de Bay with the huge natural harbour of Manila Bay and the South China Sea. Hot and humid throughout the year, Manila’s climate is slightly tempered by the sea breezes. Typhoons sometimes occur in May and November. Originally Manila was a conglomeration of 17 towns and villages, which were brought together under the regime of President Marcos in 1976. Metro Manila is the actual urban core, based around the colonial capital of Intramuros and the other districts of Ermita, Malate, Quipao, San Nicolas, Paco and Binondo. The 38.3 sq kilometres (15 sq miles) of urban sprawl extends to outlying towns and villages such as Quezon City, Pasay City, Pasig City and Makati City, the centre for business and much of the nightlife. Historically, Manila Bay’s topography and strategic location, between the Old World’s silk and spices on the one side and the New World’s silver on the other, favoured commerce and made the bay a natural magnet for maritime traders. The Chinese were the first foreigners to arrive and trade in the islands in 98AD but by the late 15th century, the restless Europeans had sent Ferdinand Magellan westward to the Philippines. He landed in 1521 and claimed the islands for Spain, which took over Manila (called Maynilad by early Muslim settlers) in 1571. Despite a revolution and proclamation of independence, the Philippines fell to the United States of America, following the 1898 collapse of the Spanish Empire. In 1935, the USA approved the Commonwealth of the Philippines, only for it to be crushed by the Japanese invasion in 1941. After a bitter rearguard action around Manila, the American and Philippine forces finally surrendered in 1942 but managed to recapture Manila two years later, in a series of ferocious land and naval battles that left it ruined and depopulated. The Filipinos gained independence in 1946. However, following the 1965 election of Ferdinand Marcos, anti-government riots gave him the pretext to declare martial law in 1972, inaugurating perhaps the most kitsch tyranny on record, ably assisted by his wife (and governor of Metro Manila), Imelda Marcos. The brutal absurdities of their regime continued until 1986, when ‘People Power’ and the defection of key supporters drove them into well-heeled exile. Subsequent democratic administrations have improved the image and politics of the Philippines, however, not its economy. Manila today is a sprawling chaotic agglomeration that exercises a disproportionate influence on the entire country and is a lesson in contrasts. The dichotomies of wealth and poverty are evident, with the palatial neighbourhoods around Makati contrasting with squatter camps along the river, where the destitute scavenge to survive. So much of Manila still remains mired in the Third World and democracy has brought little change as yet to the poor. The city’s chaos also reflects the Philippines’ cultural diversity – there are more than a hundred cultural minority groups living in the country. Manila is an overpowering city and can certainly prove to be hectic if you are not prepared for it. A combination of the bustle of the traffic, noise, pollution, poverty and often-shabby infrastructure makes the city seem intimidating. However, Manila’s energy and the good humour of its people become infectious. Getting There By Air Ninoy Aquino International Airport (MNL) Tel: (02) 832 5097 or 833 5998. Fax: (02) 833 1180. Website: www.miaa.gov.ph/aboutmiaa.htm Manila’s Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA) is the city’s ageing main airport, located in the district of Paranaque, 12km (seven miles) southeast of Manila. The new NAIA Centennial Terminal II, just down the MIA Road from the old terminal, is now the international and domestic hub for the national carrier, Philippine Airlines, as well as for over 30 other major airlines and charter flights from Japan, Hong Kong, Taiwan and other regional centres. Major airlines: The national carrier is Philippine Airlines (tel: (02) 818 0111; website: www.philippineair.com), still in business after a brush with bankruptcy. Philippine Airlines links Manila to 14 cities in eight countries and provides a regular service to and from 43 domestic destinations. Other major domestic carriers are Air Philippines (tel: (02) 843 4938) and Cebu Pacific (tel: (02) 636 7770). International carriers include Air France, British Airways, Canadian Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Gulf Air, KLM, Korean Air, Lufthansa, Malaysia Airlines, Northwest Airlines, Qantas, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways and United Airlines. Approximate flight times to Manila: From London is 15 hours 30 minutes; from New York is 17 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 12 hours 35 minutes; from Toronto is 17 hours 20 minutes and from Sydney is 7 hours 40 minutes. Airport facilities: The airport has duty-free shopping, souvenir shops, a Philippine National Bank (PNB) and several ATMs, foreign exchange facilities, a post office and a small tourist information office. There is also a restaurant, car hire from Avis and Hertz and hotel representative counters. Luggage porters are available for around P50 and there is a left-luggage room. Baby-changing facilities and a massage service (P150) are also available. Free telephones in the baggage claim area allow visitors to phone ahead to confirm or arrange accommodation. Business facilities: NAIA provides a business centre, computer hire, Internet access, fax service, telephone and executive lounge. Arrival/departure tax: The fee for the use of the airport is P550 for international departures and P100 for domestic departures. Travellers should check with the airport to avoid inconvenience (tel: (02) 524 1703 or 832 2964), as the fee is liable to change without notice. The charge is payable in Philippine Pesos or its equivalent in US Dollars. Transport to the city: The journey time into Manila varies enormously depending on the time of day. At peak times it can take up to two hours – at best it will take 30 minutes. Travellers are recommended to only take a taxi with a Department of Tourism (DOT) accreditation. Flagging a taxi on the road outside the airport is notoriously expensive and often dangerous. Avis run a special car hire service into Manila. This can be booked from the USA before departure (tel: (800) 331 1084, ext 7321, international department) or coupons can be obtained from the Avis desk in the arrivals hall. The cost is around P800 for the trip into the city. For transport into Makati, Cubao, Quezon City or any destinations along Manila’s ring road (EDSA), there are buses that can be picked up on the main road outside the NAIA. They are located beyond the car park and under the flyover to the right. They also stop outside the domestic terminal and will cost up to P20 depending on the destination. The buses run every 15 minutes 0500-2300. Jeepneys are another local speciality. They are all privately owned and will cost around P3. They run to and from Baclaran where there is a Metrorail terminal along Quirino Avenue to complete the journey to the city. The Metrorail costs P10 and connects to Pedro Gil station in Malate or United Nations Avenue in Ermita from 0530-2230 every day. Getting There By Water The port area in Manila is called Pier Port. It is divided in two main areas – North and South Harbour. The South Harbour is located off Bonifacio Drive and the Muelle de San Francisco Street, in the port area, south of Metro Manila. The North Harbour is on Marcos Street in the Tondo district. Ferries arrive at South Harbour and leave from the slightly more difficult to find North Harbour. There are very few facilities at the port – some food and drinks stalls and a seating area. Philippines Port Authority(tel: (02) 527 4856 or 4844; fax: 527 8358) provides further information. Ferry services: The Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines East Asian Group Area (BIMPEAGA) has made sea travel more accessible, in theory, although this is still in the early stages. The ferries operate on rather erratic schedules. It is worth confirming and then rechecking any schedule for ferry travel to or from Manila. International schedules are even more difficult to predict. Aleson Lines (tel: (02) 991 2687 or 4258) leaves Zamboanga – a port on the southwest island of Basilan – for Malaysia, while the EPA Shipping Line (tel: (083) 380 3591) operates a cargo boat that takes passengers, however, this leaves from the southern port of General Santos. There are frequent inter-island ferries, with ports dotted throughout the islands. Negros Navigation, Loyola Building, 849 Arnaiz Avenue, Makati (tel: (02) 818 3895; website: www.nenaco.com.ph), travels to Palawan, Mindanao and islands in Negros. Sulpicio Lines, 415 San Fernando Street, Binondo (tel: (02) 241 9701; website: www.onlyindavao.com/articles/shipsked.htm), and WG&A, Second Floor, Trinidad Building, Mabini Street and United Nations Avenue, Ermita (tel: (02) 525 6373; website: www.wgasuperferry.com), cover the same destinations, including numerous smaller islands such as Masbate. The Philippines has a poor record of maritime safety in its domestic waters and many ferries have sunk. In general, travellers should exercise caution by observing the condition of boats. There are also ocean ferry connection between Malaysia and Indonesia, as well as several provincial cities on Mindanao in the Philippines. However, these services are not recommended to tourists. Transport to the city: There are usually taxis available from the port into the city. They should cost P50 from Matale, although travellers from the port usually pay at least P100. This area is pretty thin on other modes of transport and a taxi is recommended. Getting There By Road Road: Driving in Manila is not for the faint-hearted, as there is a fairly opportunistic attitude. In theory, the Filipinos drive on the right and the legal driving age is 18 years. The national roads (expressways), smaller main roads (highways) and smaller streets or alternate roads are all signposted in English. The national speed limit on expressways is 80kph (50mph), falling to 40kph (25mph) in built-up areas of central Manila. There are drink-driving laws but these are not strictly adhered to. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.10%, approximately equivalent to six bottles of beer. If stopped by the police, the fine is P2000 or three to six days in jail and the obligatory attendance at a seminar on the dangers of drink driving. The general rule is that drivers give way to buses at all times. The safest lane is the outside lane, although drivers will overtake on the inside or on the hard shoulder if there is a gap in the traffic. Care should be taken when driving at night, especially as many cyclists and even truck drivers may not use lights. Accidents are marked by burning oilcans placed in the road. Foreign and international driving licences are valid for 90 days from arrival in the country but it is unlikely that one will be asked for your licence once the vehicle is hired. No other documentation is needed apart from your passport. The Philippine Motor Association, 683 Aurora Boulevard, Quezon City (tel: (02) 723 0808/18), operates a 24-hour emergency breakdown and towing service within Metro Manila. This is free to members. Emergency breakdown service Philippine Motor Association 723 0808/18 Routes to the city: The main ring road around Manila is called Epifanio Delos Santos Avenue (EDSA) and runs from near the airport to Caloocan City, in the north of Metro Manila. Another main highway that runs into central Manila from the airport is the President Osmena Highway, joining President Quirino road, which continues into Malate. Roxas Boulevard runs along the west coast from Paranaque. It becomes Bonifacio Drive and meets C M Recto – another main road running from San Nicolas inland towards the Pasig River in San Miguel. Manila is situated in a narrow area of central Luzon and roads to the city head from either north or south. The South Expressway leads into southern Manila from Batangas, San Pablo and Legaspi in southern Luzon, while the North Expressway leads north out of Manila to San Fernando and Baguio. Approximate driving times to Manila: From San Fernando – 1 hour; Batangas – 2 hours; San Pablo – 2 hours; Baguio – 4 hours; Legaspi – 12 hours. Coach services: A popular form of transport to and from the provinces, coach transport nevertheless tends toward a masochistic kind of ‘educational’ travel experience. BLTB – Batangas, Laguna, Tayabas Bus Co. (tel: (02) 833 5501), Philtranco (tel: (02) 832 2456) and Victory Liner (tel: 833 0293) are all important companies. Philtranco operates a service south to Legaspi, Sorosogon, Davoa on Mindanao Island and Tacloban on Leyte. Victory Liner operates services north to Baguio, Alaminos, Tuguegarao, Olonaop, Iba and Dagupan. There is no central bus terminal in Manila and bus companies maintain their own locations around the city – both Philtranco and Victory Liner have terminals in Pasay City. Getting There By Rail Philippine National Railways (tel: (02) 287 3062 or 514 832) is the national rail service provider. Service is basic, although the seats are surprisingly comfortable and some coaches are air-conditioned. Manila’s main station is Tutuban station, Claro M Recto Avenue, Tutuban (tel: (02) 287 3062). Facilities are limited, however, the adjacent Tutuban Mall has banks and other facilities. Rail services: The rail system connects Manila with the city of Legaspi on the Bicol Peninsula in southern Luzon (journey time – 12 hours) and extends north to San Fernando in La Union Province. This is essentially the country’s only rail line – although one is planned for the island of Mindanao – a fact that reveals much about Philippine infrastructure. Transport to the city: Transport to and from the station is basic, with no Metrorail connection. Taxis, buses and jeepneys are available at the railway station. Getting Around Public Transport Manila’s public transport system is a supplement to its extensive and indeed, chaotic and proliferating private transport operations and, such as it is, is administered by the Metro Manila Development Authority (MMDA), EDSA corner of Orense Street, Guadalupe Makati (tel: (02) 882 4150/77; e-mail: info@mmda.gov.ph). There is no unified transport pass nor roving ticket schemes – the situation is far more like a free-for-all. The elevated Mass Rail Transit (MRT) or Metrorail, is under development and has two lines open so far. The Light Rail Transit (LRT), completed in 1985, operates 0430-2245 from Baclaran to Monumento, along Taft Avenue in the south and Rizal Avenue in the north, encompassing a total of 16 stations. The MRT3 line, or Metrostar runs 0600-2130 from EDSA/Taft Avenue in the south to North station in the north. The LRT uses magnetic-strip swipe cards for tickets, which are available for purchase at ticket booths in the stations. The regular fare is P12. There is a reduced fare of just P3 when boarding Baclaran-bound trains at Quirino station or later, or Monumento-bound trains at Tayuman station or later. LRT tickets are divided into single-journey tickets for single trips, valid only on the day of purchase, or stored value tickets sold for P120, intended for multiple trips, depending on the value stored in the ticket, and valid for six months from the date of purchase. Pickpockets are a risk at peak hours and caution is advised. Manila is served by a plethora of large and small private bus companies. As a consequence, there are no uniform bus passes. Chief operators include DMTC (tel: (02) 373 2981) and JD Transit (tel: (02) 911 0161). Local buses are useful for major roads, such as the EDSA, but are not allowed into most streets in the centre of town. Buses cost P4-P15 depending on destination and whether the bus is air-conditioned – tickets are available from kiosks, stations and some shops. The buses run from around 0500 until 2330 every day. Taxis Taxis, including the larger FX taxis that can carry between seven and ten people, can be flagged down from anywhere in the city. There are no taxi ranks except at the airport. Passengers should beware of being overcharged and should only travel if the driver uses the meter. Reputable and trustworthy fleets include EMP (white taxis with yellow stripes) and R&E (yellow taxis with green stripes). The starting rate is P25 and then P2 every kilometre. Avis Taxi (tel: (02) 532 5758 or 844 4884) is a reputable radio-cab company – P35 is added to the meter rate as a pick-up fee. Tipping is discretionary and usually handled by rounding up the fare to the nearest P10. Jeepneys Jeepneys run 24 hours a day and travel everywhere in the city. They are brightly coloured jeeps often outfitted with tassels, decorative horns and mirrors. The Philippine psyche on wheels, they are garish, chaotic, exuberant and decidedly insecure – a ride on one is a must as an educational experience, if not as a way of getting quickly and safely from A to B. The inexpensive jeepneys transport about one-third of the city’s commuter traffic. The destination is displayed in the window or down the side of the vehicle and they can be hailed anywhere. The cost of a journey is between P4 and P10. Limousines Limousines can be hired from all the major hotels. Avis also provides a limousine service – information is available at the airport (tel: (02) 832 2088). The fee for a limousine with driver is only slightly above the standard agency fee of P2500 per day and anyone wishing to employ a driver on a regular basis can do so for as little as P12,500 per month. Driving in the City Driving conditions in Manila are notorious, with heavy congestion and smog. Drivers in the Philippines are frequently aggressive and often disregard traffic regulations, especially regarding lane discipline, one-way streets and giving way to other drivers. They use their horns all the time. Parking is as much of a scramble as driving is and visitors are advised to park at their hotels, although facilities are available at large shopping malls and major commercial districts, such as Makati and Ortigas. In order to reduce pollution, a congestion scheme banning cars from the capital is in effect 0700-1900 – those with number plates ending in 1 or 2 on Mondays, 3 or 4 on Tuesdays and so on, with 9 or 0 banned on Fridays. Driving is not recommended for visitors, seeing as the risks are too high and jeepneys offer a far cheaper more characterful way of getting around, with drivers who are able to actually navigate the traffic madness. Car Hire Avis (tel: (02) 742 2871; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (02) 816 6682; website: www.budget.com) and Hertz (tel: (02) 897 5151; website: www.hertz.com) are the most reliable providers. The minimum age limit is 25 years for these major chains, although many local companies will not insist on this. The only required documentation is a valid international licence. Agencies should also furnish drivers with photocopies of the car registration papers and tax receipts. Rates are typically P2500 per day for an air-conditioned vehicle from the international chains, while local providers, such as JB Rent-A-Car (tel: (02) 526 6288) or KEI Transport (tel: (02) 524 6834), will provide similar cars for P1200-1300 per day. Cash payment requires a deposit, usually around 150% of the estimated hire fee. Bicycle & Scooter Hire Bicycles and scooters are available for hire in the Philippines but due to the high risk of accidents, their use is not recommended. Business Business Profile The Philippine economy is divided roughly into agriculture (contributing 20% of GDP), industry (32%) and services (48%). However, the country’s major export is undoubtedly people – the maids, musicians and other guest workers that throng Asia’s service sector, as well as far more highly qualified professionals noted for their adaptability and English skills. The national unemployment rate of 13.9% takes no account of the large numbers underemployed or on bare subsistence incomes – around 32% of the population live below the poverty line. As of April 2002, Metro Manila has an unemployment rate of 20.3%, the highest in the country. This is largely due to unemployed jobseekers flooding into the capital from the provinces. Despite this and recurrent political problems, growth has been healthy lately, averaging 3.4% in 2001. Philippine manufacturing is highly concentrated in or near metropolitan Manila, with area firms employing more than 50% of the country’s manufacturing industry workers. This is due to a number of factors, including: Manila’s role as the principal port of entry for imported raw materials and other goods; the city’s excellent harbour, which is deep and sheltered; the existence of a large local market; a pool of skilled labour; and the presence of the nation’s major financial, governmental and cultural institutions. Manufactures include textiles, clothing and electronic goods – the latter two are the nation’s leading exports. Watches, iron and steel, food and beverages, cigars and cigarettes, leather goods and shoes are also manufactured here. Additionally, local entrepreneurs – often with foreign financial partners – continue to process primary commodities for export, including plywood, refined sugar, copra and coconut oil. Top companies include Ayala Corp and Ayala Land, as well as Meralco and SM Prime. The main business and financial district is Makati City, also the main embassy district. The Philippine Stock Exchange has active trading floors here and in Pasig City. Manila has stepped forward into the ‘new economy’ with numerous software businesses that use the Philippines’ cheap, highly educated English-speaking workforce to handle outsourcing tasks for the world’s computerised operations. Call centres and other remote service businesses also utilise the same human capital and this is one of the Philippines’ brightest prospects for lifting itself out of Asia’s lower-middle development league. The local mobile-phone company, SMART, is another testament to the growing importance of technology in Manila, while the Jollibee fast-food franchise shows that the Philippines is not incapable of launching an international brand. Business Etiquette Business in Manila is not the formal affair typical further north, although the influential Chinese community brings some stricter East Asian norms. Business style is American and American English is commonly spoken in business circles. Business contacts are best made through connections rather than by cold calling. Diplomacy is preferred to confrontation in business. Handshakes and the exchange of business cards are the usual greeting. Manila’s heat also means a more relaxed approach to business dress, although a shirt and tie is always advised for formal meetings. Hospitality for clients typically includes drinks and golfing. Gifts can be selected to appeal to educated Filipinos’ love of things Western and wrapped in red or green for good luck. Filipinos are not scrupulously punctual and delays may occur. Prior appointments are necessary, however. The best months for business visits are October to November and January to May – business visits around Christmas and Easter are not recommended, as delays tend to be unavoidable. Office hours are usually 0800-1200 and 1300-1700 Monday to Friday, although some company offices are also open 0800-1200 Saturday. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Manila follows the curve of Manila Bay roughly from north to south, with most of the areas of interest for visitors in its huge sprawl lying close to the water. The city is a lesson in contrasts, thanks to its rich brew of influences from various foreign powers and its own diverse traditions. One of the most obvious contrasts is also, sadly, the huge divide between rich and poor – about 25% of Manila’s population is estimated to live in squatter camps. The socially conscious or just plain voyeuristic can, if they wish, go and see these individuals scratching a living from the city’s refuse tips. Malate and Ermita, the chief tourist destinations, are far more salubrious, with Rizal Park and Intramuros all lying just to the north. Just across the Pasig River from them are Quiapo, full of colourful markets, and Binondo, with its Chinatown. Makati is the main business centre, further to the south and east, with the big malls of Greenhills just to its north. Quezon City and Pasay City, outlying to the north and south respectively, also have points of interest. Tourist Information Philippine Tourism Authority (DOT) Fifth Floor, DOT Building, TM Kalaw Street, Teodoro Valencia Circle Tel: (02)524 2502. Fax: (02) 525 6490. E-mail: deptour@info.com.ph Website: www.tourism.gov.ph Opening hours: Daily 0700-1800. Passes Manila does not operate any systematic programme of visitor passes. Key Attractions Rizal Park A substantial open green area that showcases Manila at play, 58-hectare (143-acre) Rizal Park is one of the largest parks in South East Asia. It is also known as Luneta, after the area it replaced. Its local significance can be gauged by the fact that it is named after Dr José Rizal, the great Philippine anti-colonial fighter and thinker. He is memorialised in the Diorama of the Martyrdom of Dr José Rizal, which becomes a son et lumière exhibit after sunset, and his remains were interred in the Rizal Monument in 1912. The many ornamental gardens include a re-creation of the entire Philippines archipelago in the eastern ponds. There is also a Japanese Garden, a Chinese Garden, an Orchidarium, a chess plaza and a skating rink. The museums and public buildings within its precincts include the Museum of the Pilipino People (see below). In the morning, residents assemble to practise tai chi, Philippine stick-fighting or sundry forms of martial arts, while on most Sundays, there is a free ‘Concert at the Park’ in an open-air auditorium. Taft Avenue to Manila Bay Transport: Jeepney to Taft Avenue; jeepney from Quiapo to TM Kalaw Street via Taft Avenue. Opening hours: Daily 0700-1900 (ornamental gardens). Admission: Free. Intramuros The original city, founded in 1571 by the Spanish, Intramuros is located on the southern bank of the Pasig River. Substantial sections of the encircling wall, which was begun in 1590, remain, including a number of decorated gates. In fact a poorly defensible site, Intramuros was the locus for most major conflicts and invasions to befall the pre-independence Philippines, culminating in the devastating Battle for Manila, between the Japanese and Americans, in 1945, in which over 100,000 locals died. The surviving walls have been restored and many attractive historic buildings still remain within their precincts, while a walk beneath their ramparts gives a colonial experience hard to match in modern Asia. Intramuros Tel: (02) 527 4084. Fax: 527 3084. Transport: Jeepney to Bonifacio Drive, Metrorail Central. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. Fort Santiago One of the oldest and most dramatic colonial buildings in the Philippines, Fort Santiago was built to guard the entrance to the Pasig River and dates back, in its oldest sections, to 1571. Its most famous prisoner was the national hero, José Rizal, who spent his last days here before his death at the hands of the Spanish in 1896. More recent memories of tyranny include the legacy of wartime Japanese occupation, when Philippine freedom fighters suffered and died here. In another cell block, American POWs were left to be drowned by the rising tide – this was one of the rumoured resting places for the legendary wartime trove of Yamashita’s Gold and the victims’ last resting place has been much disturbed by treasure seekers. The Japanese used Fort Santiago as their final redoubt against American forces and the fort was correspondingly damaged. It has been rebuilt as a park, with its own resident theatre company. At its heart is the Rizal Shrine, which contains very crypto-Catholic relics of the hero – one of his vertebrae, the first draft of his novel Noli Me Tangere or Touch Me Not (1887) and the original of his death poem. Entrance at end of General Luna Street, Intramuros Tel: (02) 527 2889 Transport: Jeepney to Bonifacio Drive, Metrorail Central. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1800 (fort); Tues-Sun 0800-1200 and 1300-1700 (museum). Admission: P40; concessions available. San Agustin Church and Museum One of the few buildings in Intramuros to survive the carnage of the Japanese invasion substantially intact, and Manila’s oldest stone church, San Agustin Church was completed in 1606. Its present interior murals post date earthquakes in 1863 and 1889, which brought down one of its towers. The adjoining Augustinian monastery houses the San Agustin Museum, which contains much colonial religious art, including altarpieces and screens salvaged whole from other houses of worship in 1945. General Luna Street, Intramuros Tel: (02) 527 4061 Transport: Jeepney to Bonifacio Drive, Metrorail Central. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1200 and 1300-1700. Admission: P45; concessions available. National Museum of the Philippines Founded in 1901, as the Insular Museum of Ethnology, Natural History and Commerce, the National Museum of the Philippines houses the official national baseline collections in the sciences and humanities, with particular reference to the environment and history of the Philippines. Its holdings are divided into the National Museum itself, housed in the Old Congress Building of the Philippines, and the National Museum of the Filipino People, housed in the former Finance Building. It has many archaeological exhibits of the Philippines’ prehistory, including the skull of ‘Tabon Man’, the oldest human remains in the archipelago. The Museum of the Filipino People collection includes the preserved timbers and treasures of the San Diego, a Spanish galleon that sunk in Philippine waters after a collision in 1600. Padre Burgos Street, Rizal Park Tel: (02) 527 1215 Fax: (02) 527 0306. Website: www.skyboom.com/nationalmuseumphils E-mail: nmuseum@i-next.net Transport: Jeepney to Taft Avenue; jeepney from Quiapo to TM Kalaw Street via Taft Avenue. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700. Admission: Free (National Museum); P100, concessions available (Museum of the Filipino People). Malacañang Palace and Museum Locally renowned as a historic building, the palace was formerly the summer residence of the Spanish Governor General and is now the seat of government and the official residence of the head of state. Its museum houses mementoes of each successive president of the Philippines. Imelda Marcos’ famous shoe collection was once part of the holdings, although they have now been removed to leave more worthy exhibits. Gate Six, JP Laurel Street, San Miguel Tel: (02) 733 3721. Transport: Jeepney San Miguel/Malacañang from Ilalim ng Tulay Market in Quiapo. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1500. Admission: P200 (Mon-Wed); P40 (Thurs and Fri). Chinese Cemetery Founded in the 1850s, the Chinese Cemetery was designated as the resting-place for the Chinese citizens who were denied burial in Catholic cemeteries. A memorial garden considerably more opulent and bizarre than most of its ilk elsewhere in Asia, Manila’s Chinese Cemetery houses very complete sets of grave goods – tombs outfitted with air conditioning, plumbing, flushing toilets, chandeliers and all other modern conveniences for the well-off corpse. Entire streets are laid out to honour the dead and the status of their surviving relatives. Guided tours around some of the more Baroque excesses are available courtesy of the guards. South Gate on Aurora Avenue, Blumentritt Transport: Jeepney Monumento. Opening hours: Daily 0730-1900. Admission: Free. Further Distractions Cockfighting Cockpits are one of the staples of the local scene, although not every visitor may enjoy the bloodthirsty spectacle. Cockfighting fills the same place in the Philippine national psyche as bullfighting does for the former Spanish overlords. Prize gamecocks are groomed and pampered, then sent into battle with blades on their feet. Betting for each bout can be frantic. Major venues include the Libertad cockpit, with bouts every day but Thursday. Dolores Street, Pasay City Website: www.sabong.com.ph (information, schedules and stories). Transport: Metrorail or jeepney to Libertad station, then Evangelista-Libertad jeepney. Opening hours: Fri-Wed; fight times are listed in the local newspapers. Admission: P30. Sunset over Manila Bay The Philippines’ high humidity creates superb cloud effects over the city’s great natural harbour, resulting in the famous Manila Bay sunsets. Some sceptics also say that the light show at least allows spectators to turn their backs on the squalor and chaos of the city itself. Rizal Park, Roxas Boulevard or the cultural complex around San Isidro all offer fine venues for watching the sun go down, as does the SV Carina, which sets sail from Rizal Park for a 45- to 60-minute cruise around Manila Bay. SV Carina Departures from Rizal Park Sailing time: One hour before sunset. Admission: P160. Tours of the City Walking Tours The atmospheric remains of Intramuros are best toured on foot. The Intramuros Visitors Center in Fort Santiago (tel: (02) 527 2961) and other tourist offices and hotels in town carry leaflets detailing the points of interest of Intramuros for walkers who wish to arrange their own itinerary. They also host free guided Intramuros walking tours of 30, 60 and 120 minutes, starting at the centre with an exhibition and audio-visual presentation. Bus Tours The Manila City Tour, organised by Asia Travel (tel: (02) 635 3909), runs for four hours from 0900 and costs P800, with pick-ups from all major hotels. The tour includes Rizal Park and Fort Santiago, downtown Manila, across the Pasig River to the suburbs of Makati, followed by a return to Manila for a trip to the reclaimed area and the Cultural Center Complex along Roxas Boulevard. Danfil Discovery Tours (tel: (02) 525 3788) also runs tours of all major points of interest in Manila, while Southeast Travel Corporation (tel: (02) 524 5676) is another reputable provider. Excursions For a Half Day Las Pinas: This small village, 20km (12 miles) from the city centre, still retains much of its original character, despite actually lying within Metro Manila. Las Pinas is a relief from the metropolis and among the attractions is the famous bamboo organ at San Jose Church, with a unique sound, open Monday-Friday 0800-2400, with P10 admission. Every year, in the second week of February, the Organ Festival brings top international organists here. There is also the Sarao Jeepney Factory (tel: (02) 828 1716), where Manila’s signature vehicles are assembled using methods as individual as the jeepneys themselves, open Monday-Saturday 0900-1600, with free entrance. Buses headed to Cavite from Baclaran or via Saulog or St Anthony from outside Intramuros stop at Las Pinas, as do Zapote jeepneys (journey time – 30 minutes). Calamba: A small town, situated southeast of Manila on the Laguna de Bay, Calamba has some attractive and relaxing hot springs and bathing places, as well as the Enchanted Kingdom theme park. However, most visitors come for the Rizal Shrine. A colonial-era house where the Philippines’ ubiquitous national hero was born and which has been converted into a museum full of his relics, Rizal Shrine is open Tuesday-Sunday 0800-1200 and 1300-1700 and admission is free. The BLTB bus from Manila to Santa Cruz, stops at the Calamba terminal for the Rizal Shrine (journey time – 45 minutes). For a Whole Day Hidden Valley: The tropical forest resort of Hidden Valley (tel: (02) 797 1270), located five kilometres (three miles) from Alaminos, offers hot springs, jungle walks and natural swimming pools. Well-heeled locals and ex-pats enjoy this lush haven from Manila’s sprawl and don’t seem to mind the hefty price tag of P1550 for a day trip including buffet – more for overnight stays. Approximately 70km (44 miles) north of Manila, transport to Alaminos is on BLTB, JAM Transit or Tritran bus from Pasay City (journey time – 90 minutes). Corregidor: The last fallback point for the US forces resisting Japanese invasion in World War II, Corregidor island (website: www.corregidorphilippines.com) was General Douglas MacArthur’s headquarters until March 1942, when he withdrew to Australia and delivered his celebrated ‘I shall return’ speech. He left his successor and thousands of other American and Philippine servicemen to surrender, facing captivity and death at the hands of the occupiers. MacArthur returned in January 1945, directing a devastating assault. The entire island – situated 48km (30 miles) west of Manila, just off the southern tip of Bataan Peninsula – has now been turned into a memorial and museum by the Corregidor Foundation (tel: (02) 525 3420 or tel/fax (02) 523 5605), and wartime fortifications litter the landscape. At its centre is the Pacific War Memorial, and other landmarks include the Malinta Tunnel underground hospital, General MacArthur’s Headquarters, the Spanish lighthouse and the artillery batteries. Sun Cruises (tel: (02) 831 8140) offers an inclusive package for P1700 (journey time – one hour). Sport Given the shortage of other facilities in the city, sports in Manila are surprisingly well catered for. Cockfighting fills the place in the national psyche that bullfighting occupies in the identity of its onetime Spanish overlords, although understandably, its appeal to outsiders can be limited, as with jai alai, the Philippine version of pelota, imported from Spain. Basketball is the most popular modern international sport and Filipinos can be found hooping as diligently as USA kids. The Philippine Basketball Association (tel: (02) 638 1815/6/7. Fax: (02) 634 8574; e-mail: inquiries@iconn.com.ph or inquiries@pba.com.ph; website: www.pba.com.ph) league centres on the Cuneta Astrodome, Roxas Avenue, Pasay City (tel: (02) 833 7333), with ticket prices ranging from P20, for restricted view, up to P220. The Alaska Aces, San Miguel Beermen and Coca-Cola Tigers are three important basketball teams based in Manila, currently standing third, fourth and fifth respectively in the league. Affiliation tends to be by sponsor rather than region. Fitness centres: Gyms and fitness centres are popular across Manila, with many of the best equipped – and most exclusive – located in the major hotels and shopping malls. The Ayala Center in Makati City houses both the Clark Hatch Fitness Center (tel: (02) 815 9711) and Gold’s Gym (tel: (02) 752 8081). Slimmer’s World (tel: (02) 887 1333) is a popular chain of gyms, with branches across the city. Golf: Club Intramuros, Bonifacio Drive, Intramuros (tel: (02) 527 6613 or 9594), owned and operated by the Philippine Tourism Authority, is a preferred city centre location, with an 18-hole par-60 course, particularly good for night golf. Green fees are P1000 a round for visitors. Despite its name, the Wack Wack Golf and Country Club, Shaw Boulevard, Mandaluyong City (tel: (02) 723 0665), is a completely serious operation with two championship courses and a fee of P7200 per guest. Fort Bonifacio Golf Club, in Makati (tel: (02) 887 3732), is maintained by the Philippines Army with green fees at P1000 weekdays and P1500 weekends. The Manila Golf and Country Club, Harvard Road, Forbes Park, Makati City (tel: (02) 817 4948 or 815 2641; fax: (02) 816 0162) is one of the Philippines’ most exclusive clubs. Green fees are P1000 Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, P1500 on Wednesday and Sunday and P2000 on Saturday. Manila Golf Tours, Unit 406, 3520 Agapita II Building, Mola Street, Pasong Tamo, Makati City (tel: (02) 890 2790), arranges circuits specifically for golfing enthusiasts. Horseracing: As with other sports that facilitate gambling, horseracing is a part of Manila society, with millions of Pesos bet every week. Hippophiles should visit the San Lazaro Hippodrome, Felix Huertas Street, Santa Cruz, with racing on Wednesday, Thursday and weekends. Admission is from P5. Tennis: Many of the better hotels maintain tennis courts. At the Rizal Memorial Sports Complex, Vito Cruz Street, Malate, courts are available for P32.50 per player per hour (rising to P45 at weekends). Well-connected visitors may prefer the courts at the Philippine Columbian Association, Plaza Dilao, Paco (tel: (02) 521 1506), although access to their facilities requires sponsorship or a Guest Card from an existing member. Yachting: The Manila Yacht Club, Roxas Boulevard (tel: (02) 521 4457), is a social and sporting Mecca; visitors are admitted only courtesy of existing members. Shopping Manila mallrats can shop till they drop at a number of international quality shopping centres. The junction of EDSA and Ortigas Avenue in Quezon City is a chief focus, with at least three major malls – Robinson’s Galleria, Shangri-La Plaza and the Shoemart (SM) Megamall, with a fourth, Greenhills, just a short distance away. Another Robinson’s, at Adriatico Street, in Ermita, is situated right in the prime tourist and entertainment district. Makati has its super-mall in the shape of the Ayala Center and also boasts the Glorietta Center and the Greenbelt Square Mall. All Manila malls offer designer goods and other thoroughly Western items at a huge discount from their cost back home – Makati has the reputation of being the most chic. Almost all malls operate from 1000-2000/2100. Manila’s native markets are a completely different world and showcase the unique products of the Philippines’ many islands and diverse, fragmented cultures. These are the baratillo, a handicraft-hunter’s dream. Carved wooden plates, bowls and utensils are popular, as are the creations of the tribal communities in the more secluded areas of the archipelago. Favourite buys include souvenirs made from seashells – such as hanging lamps glazed with shell panels – and butterfly knives. However, visitors should remember the environmental and legal issues attached to these. Paintings of remarkably high quality are also offered. Filipino men’s shirts (the Barong Tagalog) are another typical item, often adorning photo-calls of visiting dignitaries. Divisoria Market, near Ilalim ng Tulay near Quiapo, is especially well stocked with handicrafts. Chinatown is one of the most famous markets, specialising particularly in fabrics. Central Market in Santa Cruz is more focused on clothing bargains. Markets are open daily, usually from dawn until well into the evening. Souvenir-hunters not wishing to haggle for the best deals can get good fixed rates from the shop at the Museum of the Pilipino People or the handicrafts sections of major department stores. There is no sales tax in the Philippines. Culture The rich and highly seasoned broth of Philippine popular culture has not always transferred into equally striking manifestations among the cultural elite, most of whom are highly Westernised. The generally high level of education among the middle classes means that the arts enjoy a more informed and cosmopolitan public than in many developing nations, especially for dance. The Cultural Center of the Philippines, CCP Building, CCP Complex, Roxas Boulevard, Pasay City (tel: (02) 832 1125; website: www.culturalcenter.gov.ph), is the temple for many of the high arts. It was a pet project of Imelda Marcos and, in true Pharaonic style, supposedly contains the bodies of workers buried in cement as its builders raced to meet her deadlines. It also is the nearest thing Manila has to a central ticketing agency for most of the arts. The National Commission for Culture and the Arts, 633 General Luna Street, Intramuros (tel: (02) 527 2192; fax: (02) 527 2191; website: www.ncca.gov.ph), is the modern national steering body that promotes Philippines arts and culture. The Manila Bulletin City Guide (website: http://cityguide.mb.com.ph) and ClickTheCity (website: www.clickthecity.com) are the best sources for listings in Manila. Further listings can be found online at www.manilaguide.com and www.yehey.com. Music: The Philippine Philharmonic Orchestra (tel: (02) 832 1120), resident company of the Cultural Center of the Philippines, CCP Building, CCP Complex, Roxas Boulevard, Pasay City (tel: (02) 832 1125; website: www.culturalcenter.gov.ph), is the chief classical ensemble. The Philippine Chamber Choir has grown to a choral force of considerable stature. Open-air classical recitals are particularly popular, taking place within Intramuros, in Paco Park or at Rizal Park Amphitheater, in Rizal Park (tel: (02) 535 3353). Theatre: Dulaang Talyer is a top contemporary and avant-garde company. The Cultural Center of the Philippines (see Music above) plays to the very highest level of the repertoire, with Tanghalang Pilipino as its resident company and the Folk Arts Theater (tel: (02) 832 1120) within the same complex, preserving and interpreting traditional dramas. The William Shaw Theater on the fifth floor of the Shangri-La Plaza, Mandaluyong (tel: (02) 633 4821), has comedies and more serious fare. Intramuros has its own theatre company and theatre, the Rajah Sulayman Theatre, Fort Santiago (tel: (02) 410 0821). Open-air events take place at the Rizal Park Ampitheater (see Music above). Dance: With dance featuring highly in many of the Philippines’ cultural traditions, it is no surprise that ballet and performance arts are one of the major cultural exports. Ballet Philippines (tel: (02) 832 3675) is the top national troupe for classical and modern repertoire and interpretations of local traditions. Ballet Philippines, the Philippine Ballet Theatre and the Bayanihan Philippine National Folk Dance Company are all resident at the Cultural Center of the Philippines (see Music). The Ramon Obusan Folkloric Group, also resident, is a major exponent of traditional dance. AC DanzMove is the resident dance troupe of Assumption College, Makati City (tel: (02) 894 2678). Film: The Philippines has an active film industry, producing mostly predictably sentimental and violent fare. Former president José Estrada started his career as a matinee idol before moving on to the political stage – it is difficult to know whether this says more about Philippine film or Philippine politics. Film buffs will always remember that Francis Ford Coppola’s Apocalypse Now (1979) was shot in the Philippines, with Marcos furnishing the helicopters for the famous ‘Ride of the Valkyries’ air cavalry charge. Less well known is the fact that Peter Weir’s The Year of Living Dangerously (1982) used Manila for Jakarta, instead of Saigon. Shangri-La Cinema, at the Shangri-La Plaza, on the corner of Shaw Boulevard and EDSA, Mandaluyong City (tel: (02) 633 7851), and SM Megamall, EDSA, Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong (tel: (02) 633 1901 or 632 9408), are major multiplex cinema venues. More intellectual venues can be found in Santa Cruz, around the junction of CM Recto Avenue and Rizal Avenue, or in Paco on Pedro Gil Street. Cultural events: National Arts Month, in February, is an important annual arts festival that takes place at various venues in Manila. Around the same time, the Bamboo Organ Festival, at Las Piñas Village, near Manila, takes place in the second week of February every year, bringing the world’s foremost organists to this charming small town. The Manila Film Festival, in June, is arranged to coincide with the foundation celebrations of the city on 24 June, to give celebrants a chance to see their favourite stars. Literary Notes Manila has found literary favour, as befits a nation whose founding martyr, José Rizal, was a novelist. Rizal’s Noli Me Tangere or Touch Me Not (1887) established modern Philippine literature and is a key work in the evolution of the modern national consciousness. His El Filibusterismo or Subversion (1891) is even more explicit in its dissection of Spanish colonialism in the Philippines. His successors, however, remain mostly unknown to an outside audience. British writers have contributed some of the best recent interpretations of Manila. James Hamilton-Paterson has published Ghosts of Manila (1994), a tale of horrible goings-on in the twilight of the Marcos era, thinly fictionalised from real events. James Fenton showed up in Manila for the last act of the Marcos soap opera – his memoir, The Snap Revolution (1986), captures the occasion, albeit from an arguably patronising and leftist perspective. Corazon Aquino and the Brushfire Revolution (1995), by Robert Reid and Eileen Guerrero, interprets the events differently but also with a jaded eye. William Boyd used Manila in 1902, as the backdrop for his The Blue Afternoon (1997), while Timothy Mo’s Brownout on Breadfruit Boulevard (1995) makes a great play of Manila’s once notorious electricity outages, weaving them with more than a whiff of scatology. A Short History of the Philippines (1969), by Teodoro Agoncillo, is probably the best work to cover its brief. Nightlife All the Latinate vibrancy of Philippines life comes out in Manila at night, although there is no denying its rough edge. Recent clean-up campaigns have cut into the legacy of sex tourism sleaze, although it can still be found by those who care to look. The generally high standards of English also allow for faster contact with locals. Barflies looking for genuine native excitement should gravitate to JM Nakpil Street, Makati Avenue or Pasay Road in Makati, or anywhere in Malate and Ermita districts. Almost any bar or club is likely to feature live music, so the sections below do overlap somewhat. Closing times range from 0200 or 0300 during the week to 0500 at weekends, depending on the venue. Dress codes also vary with the venue but are often robustly get-down. The legal drinking age in the Philippines is 18 years. An entire evening of hardy drinking at a typical bar will cost between P150 and P300 – anyone foolhardy enough to patronise a girlie bar can expect that figure to rise hugely. The Manila Bulletin City Guide (website: http://cityguide.mb.com.ph) and ClickTheCity (website: www.clickthecity.com) are the best sources for listings in Manila. Further listings can be found online at www.manilaguide.com and www.yehey.com. Bars: Top-class venues for the sophisticate include Café Vogue and the Orchid Bar, both located at the Manila Midtown Hotel, corner of Pedro Gil Street and M Adriatico Street, the Lobby Lounge, at the Manila Hotel, 1 Rizal Park, the Sky Lounge, at the Manila Diamond Hotel, corner of Roxas boulevard and Dr J Quintos Street, and Top of the Century, at the Century Park Sheraton Hotel, 599 P Ocampo Street. Symptomatic of the many Westerners who have settled in Manila, the San Mig Pub, Legaspi Street, and the Prince of Wales Pub and Grill, New Plaza Building, Greenbelt Mall Ayala Center, Makati, offer a suggestion of home in a far more lively atmosphere. The local Hard Rock Café, 1786 M Adriatico Street, Malate, is a good venue for East-meets-West. Streetlife, on the fourth floor of Quad III, Ayala Center, has eclectic decor and an exuberant ambience. Casinos: Filipinos love to gamble and there are more sophisticated places to do this than around the cockpit (see Further Distractions). The Casino Filipino Pavilion, situated in the Holiday Inn Manila Hotel, United Nations Avenue, Ermita, is open daily 24 hours. Dress code is smart, the entry fee is P100 and the minimum age is 21 years – a passport is required. The Casino Filipino Heritage, in the Heritage Hotel Manila, at the intersection of Roxas Boulevard and EDSA, in Pasay City, offers a similar gambling experience. Clubs: Sedate ballroom dancing can be found Monday-Saturday evening at Remedios Circle, with In the Mood. Up-tempo, upmarket venues include the Infinity Club, 1712 Roxas Boulevard, Pasay City, and La Legende Entertainment Complex, 718 Quezon Avenue, Quezon City. For raves, trance, house and club culture, try Laser Planet, at Star City, Roxas Boulevard, Pasay, Synergy, on the third level, Glorietta II, Ayala Center, Makati, or The Verve Room, second floor, 607 J Nakpil Street, Malate. Alternatively, just pick up any flyer marked ‘Groove Nation’ or ‘Consortium’. More eccentric choices include Hobbit House, Mabini Street, a folk club staffed entirely by dwarves. Live music: Philippine live bands, ranging from the sublime to the ridiculous, swarm right across Asia and Manila is where the entire tradition comes home to roost. The Cowboy Grill, corner of Mabini Street and Arquiza Street, Ermita, offers the typical roster of rock favourites with energy and panache. Filipinos are equally addicted to karaoke and English singers can enjoy competing against the local talent – just remember to praise your competitors. Ex-pat indulgers convene at Zu, located in the Shangri-La Hotel, on Makati Avenue. The range of local options is showcased at the EDSA International Entertainment Complex, in Pasay City. City Statistics Location: Metro Manila, National Capital Region, Luzon Island. Country dialling code: 63. Population: 1,654,761 (city); 9,454,040 (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: 91.5% Christian Malay, 4% Muslim Malay, 1.5% Chinese, others 3%. Religion: 83% Roman Catholic, 5% Muslim, 2% Protestant. Time zone: GMT + 8 (GMT + 9 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 60Hz. 110 volts is available in most hotels. Flat and round two- and three-pin plugs are in use. Average January temp: 25°C (77°F). Average July temp: 28°C (82.5°F). Annual rainfall: 2030mm (80 inches). Special Events Feast of the Black Nazarene, 9 Jan 2003, Quiapo National Arts Month, arts festival, Feb, various venues Bamboo Organ Festival, Feb, Las Piñas Asia Pacific Dental Congress, 24-28 Apr, Philippine International Convention Center Asian Dive Expo, May, World Trade Center Flores de Mayo, 4 May, Rizal Park San Isidro Festival, 11-15 May, Quezon Independence Day, 12 Jun, Rizal Park Feast of St John the Baptist, 24 Jun, San Juan, Metro Manila Araw ng Maynila (Manila Day), 24 Jun, throughout the city Manila Film Festival, 24 Jun, various venues Asia Food Expo, early Sep, World Trade Center La Naval Fiesta, mid-Oct, Quezon Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: P20 33cl bottle of beer: From P12 Financial Times newspaper: P95 36-exposure colour film: From P200 City-centre bus ticket: From P4 Adult basketball ticket: From P20 Three-course meal with wine/beer: From P200 1 Philippine Peso (P1) = £0.01; US$0.02; C$0.03; A$0.03; €0.02 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.