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_City Overview Enchantingly sited at the foot of the High Atlas Mountains, its rose-coloured walls set within lush green gardens, olive groves and palmeries, it is hard to imagine that Marrakech, one of Morocco’s four Imperial Cities, lies on the edge of the Sahara. Its very name conjures up images of magic carpets and snake charmers – and not without reason. After dark, the central square in the medina, Jemaa-el-Fna, comes to life and puts on a show little changed since medieval times. It is a riot of enticing colour, noise and smells, with dancers, fire-eaters and acrobats, snake charmers and snake oil salesmen, story tellers and fortune-tellers and rows of trestle tables serving up smoking barbecues, mouth-watering tajines and less-than-appetising entrails. Around this vast open space stretch the shadowy alleyways of the souks, a vast marketplace selling herbs and potions, carpets and candles, jewellery, spices, meat and metalwork. Marrakech has long been an important crossroads and trading centre for the Arabic, Berber and black African civilisation. To the Arabic northerners, it is seen as the ‘beginning of the south’. Founded around 1070 by the Berber Almoravids, Marrakech soon became the capital of an Islamic empire that reached from central Spain to West Africa. The Almoravid conquest of southern Spain led to an exchange of culture investing this remote desert enclave with the cosmopolitan atmosphere of Andalucia, something that it has retained a feel for, despite the later destruction of the city when it fell to the Arab Almohads. The architectural influence of the Almohads was – many of the city’s best-known landmarks, such as the mosques Koutabia and El Mansour, date from their conquest, as do the vast mud walls which encase the medina. Other dynasties such as the Saadians, builders of the glorious Saadian Tombs, later ruled the city, each adding their own architectural stamp. The last to arrive, in the 20th century, were the French, under whose rule the modern town of Guéliz, was built to the west of the city walls. Yet perhaps the most significant legacy of this colonial rule is the French language, which is still spoken by all educated Moroccans. Despite the European influences, Marrakech is an Islamic city and a very male-dominated society. However, Islamic fundamentalism has never taken root here and many women adopt Western dress, have jobs (albeit relatively menial ones) and an active social life. It is one of the more liberal Muslim countries and the Government is keen to promote Morocco as a progressive, liberal Muslim state. The new king, Mohammed VI, is actively promoting the education of women and disadvantaged groups such as the Berbers, the indigenous population of the Atlas mountains. Contrary to general misconception, the Berbers also make up over half of the population of Marrakech itself and, at a very rough estimate, only about 10% of residents can claim to be ‘pure’ Arabs. The hustlers who, until recently, made life intolerable for tourists are now firmly controlled by tourist police and the restoration of its many riads (merchant houses) into bed and breakfasts, restaurants and holiday homes have breathed new life into the decaying medina. Marrakech is a magical place for a holiday, best visited in early spring or late autumn, a true oasis, away from the desert and the rigours of modern life. Getting There By Air Marrakech-Menara International Airport (RAK) Tel: (04) 444 7910 or 7865 or 8506. Fax: (04) 444 9219. Website: www.onda.org.ma/aeroport/marrakch/marrak.htm The Marrakech-Menara International Airport is located about five kilometres (four miles) southwest of Marrakech. There are few direct international flights to the city as most fly via Casablanca, which is Morocco’s main international hub. Major airlines: Morocco’s national airline is Royal Air Maroc (tel: (04) 443 6205 or (0900) 00800 (national call centre); fax: (04) 444 6002; e-mail: callcenter@royalairmaroc.com; website: www.royalairmaroc.com). It offers scheduled services direct to Marrakech three times a week from London Stansted, five flights a week from Heathrow via Casablanca and connects Marrakech to all the major Moroccan cities. GB Airways (tel: (04) 444 8951; website: www.britishairways.com) operates some direct charters from the UK, along with scheduled services via Casablanca. Air France operates scheduled services from Paris. Approximate flight times to Marrakech: From London is 3 hours 30 minutes; from New York is 8 hours (via Casablanca); from Los Angeles is 15 hours (via Paris); from Toronto is 12 hours (via Montreal and Casablanca) from Sydney is 19 hours (via Bangkok, Rome and Casablanca). Airport facilities: These include banks, post office, restaurant and snack bars, duty-free shops, general shops, medical centre and tourist information. Avis, Budget, Hertz and Europcar all provide car hire services. Business facilities: None. Arrival/departure tax: Dh180 (this included in the ticket price). Transport to the city: Bus 11 is supposed to run to the old Arabic heart of the city, the medina, every half an hour, but services can be unpredictable. Tickets cost Dh10. There are taxiphones in the arrival and departure lounges and taxis can be caught near the bus stop. Fares to the city are about Dh70. Getting There By Water Morocco’s main port for international passengers is Tangier, about 600km (450 miles) north of Marrakech, on the Mediterranean coast. Ferry services: There are about 12 crossings daily in summer and eight per day in winter from Tangier to Algeciras in Spain. The crossing takes 2.5 hours. There are also more limited crossings from Gibraltar and from the south of France. All ferries dock at the tall ferry terminal building in the heart of the town, which contains a bureau de change and a railway ticket office. A hydrofoil dock is located nearby. Transport to the city: There is a railway station, the Gare du Port, within the ferry port but the vast majority of services to Marrakech leave from the Gare du Ville, which is a short walk along the waterfront. Alternatively, travellers can sail from Tarifa to the Spanish enclave of Cueta, on the northern Moroccan coast, about 45 minutes’ sailing time from Spain. From the port at Cueta, it is necessary to take a taxi or bus to the border village of Fnideq to cross into Morocco. From Fnideq, taxi services go to the town of Tetouan, where there are frequent bus services to Tangier. Main operators include Comanav (tel: (02) 230 3012; fax: (02) 230 8455; e-mail: comanav@comanav.co.ma; website: www.comanav.co.ma) and Limadet Ferry (tel: (03) 993 3621 or 3626; fax: (03) 993 2913; website: www.limadet-ferry.com). Getting There By Road Driving in Morocco can be a pleasure, as it has a good network of uncongested roads. However, driving within cities can be much more stressful because of a general disregard for road etiquette and busy traffic. The official speed limit is 100kph (62mph) outside towns and 40kph (25mph) in urban areas. Driving is on the right. There are frequent road blocks, so drivers should keep their papers accessible. By law, both driver and passengers must wear seat belts (front seat) or face an on-the-spot fine, when driving out of town. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. As Morocco is an Islamic country, no alcohol level at all is permitted when driving. Roadside police officers have been well trained to spot drunken driving and will not hesitate to pull cars over. All foreign driving licences are acknowledged by the Moroccan authorities, so an International Driving Permit is not required. Further information is available from the Touring Club du Maroc (tel: (04) 427 9288). Emergency breakdown service: AXA Insurance Company (tel: (02) 267 272) offers nationwide breakdown cover for foreign motorists. Routes to the city: Marrakech is linked to Casablanca by the P7, to Fez by the P24 and to Agadir by the Tizi n’Test and Tizi n’Tichka Atlas routes. Driving times to Marrakech: From Casablanca – 3 hours; Agadir – 3.5 hours; Fez – 7 hours. Coach services: All urban and intercity routes leave from Marrakech’s central bus station, Place El Mouarabitène (tel: (04) 443 3933), just outside Bab Doukkala (on the northwestern edge of the old city). Eurolines (tel: +44 (0870) 514 3219, in the UK; website: www.eurolines.co.uk) runs a service from London to Marrakech three times a week (Tuesday, Friday and Sunday). It takes 60 hours and costs £93 single. Services between Morocco’s major cities and towns are run by the CTM coach company (tel: (04) 443 4651; website: www.ctm.co.ma). The national train company, ONCF, operates express bus services from the train station at Avenue Hassan II between Marrakech and Essaouira, Agadir and Laayoune in the Western Sahara. Bus tickets can be purchased in advance, from the main bus station. It is no cheaper but it will guarantee a seat, which is particularly advisable on routes that run a limited daily service. Getting There By Rail Although services are limited, the Moroccan state railway, ONCF (tel: (07) 777 6520; website: www.oncf.org.ma/voyageurs) is reliable, cheap, comfortable and the best option for travelling between the major northern cities. The Marrakech railway station (tel: (04) 444 7768), a handsome, colonial-era building, is on Avenue Hassan II, at the western edge of Guéliz. Rail services: The Moroccan rail system runs along two branches: from Casablanca on the west coast to Oujda in the northeast and from Tangier to Marrakech. There are two classes of seats – first and second. First class usually ensures an air-conditioned carriage. All tickets can be booked in advance. Inter-rail cards (for those under 26 years) can be used in Morocco. The most used direct services to Marrakech are from Casablanca (journey time – about 3 hours 10 minutes) and Fez (journey time – up to 8 hours) and the direct overnight service from Tangier (journey time – up to 9 hours), which has sleeping carriages. Journey times depend on the service chosen and the number of stops. Transport to the city: The station is about 1.5km (one mile) west of the tourist office, off Avenue Hassan II. Bus 3 and 14 run from the station through Guéliz to Jemaa El Fna. Getting Around Public Transport The national company CTM (tel: (04) 443 4651; website: www.ctm.co.ma) is the main provider of urban bus services within Marrakech, which leave from Marrakech’s central bus station, Place El Mouarabitène, just outside Bab Doukkala. There are also many private lines that operate throughout the city from the central bus station. CTM services are reliable and operate from early morning until late at night (around 0500-2200), with night buses running on the more popular routes. However, buses can be very crowded at peak hours (four times daily). Single fares are paid to the driver and cost no more than Dh3 for journeys between Guéliz and the medina. Grand Taxis, Petit Taxis and Calèches Quicker and only a little more expensive than the buses are the grand taxis, large cars that carry up to six people for a fixed fare. Generally keeping to specific routes, the taxis leave – when full – from the bus station, from Jemaa-el-Fna and from the Post Office in Guéliz. Petit taxis are saloon cars that are required to be metered but seldom are, so visitors should ask their driver to switch on the meter as they enter the vehicle. Otherwise, prices are best agreed in advance with an average price of around Dh10–20 rising to Dh15–25 at night. It is not customary to tip, although foreign visitors often do. In addition is the calèche, a horse-drawn carriage carrying up to five people. Again, prices should be agreed in advance. For five people this should not cost much more than a petit taxi. Calèches line up in the garden square between the Koutoubia and Place Jemaa El Fna, the Badia Palace and the more expensive hotels. For specified trips, grand taxis and calèches are required by law to display prices. All three can be hired for tours of the city. Grand and petit taxis can be hired for day trips outside the city. Limousines Limousines can be hired from Travel Link, 19 Rue Mauritania, Guéliz (tel: (04) 444 8797; fax: (04) 444 8839; e-mail: nait@travellink.ma; website: www.travellink.co.ma). Rates are Dh2000–2800 (dependent on the type of limo) for an eight-hour tour for two people. Driving in the City Many of the roads in the Marrakech medina are simply too narrow for cars and only small cars can negotiate the rest. It is advisable to leave the car and use taxis while in the city. Furthermore, accident rates are very high, especially around the medina where people and cyclists are apt to pull out suddenly in front of the traffic. After dark, the dangers increase since it is legal to drive cars and ride bicycles without lights at up to 20kph (12mph). Parking in Guéliz can be found at any of the big hotels or off the Avenue Mohammed V. In the medina, spaces are available at the Jemaa El Fna outside the Foucauld Hôtel and in the car park beside the CTM Hôtel. Car Hire The major car hire companies can be found in Guéliz. These include: Avis, 137 Avenue Mohammed V (tel: (04) 443 3727 or 3169 (airport office); website: www.avis.com); Hertz, 154 Avenue Mohammed V (tel: (04) 443 9984 or 444 7230 (airport office); fax: (04) 443 9983; website: www.hertz.com); Europcar, 63 Boulevard Zerqtouni (tel: (04) 443 1228; website: www.europcar.com); Budget, Boulevard Zerktouni, Guéliz (tel: (04) 443 1180 or 8875 (airport office) or 444 0720 (La Mamounia office); website: www.budgetrentacar.com), and Always, Complex Kawkab, Centre Guéliz (tel: (04) 444 6797; fax: (04) 443 0938). Hire fees are subject to 20% government tax; visitors should make sure that this has been added to the agreed price. Rates start at around Dh600 per day for a four-door saloon. Although smaller local companies can undercut this by up to a half this is often reflected in the condition of the cars. However, one more reputable outfit is Concorde Cars, 154 Avenue Mohammed V (tel: (04) 443 9973). Drivers must be over 21 years of age to hire a car and be in possession of a full national driving licence. Third-party insurance is automatic on renting a car. Bicycle and Scooter Hire A popular alternative is the bicycle or moped. Both can be rented from Hassan Location, 51 Rue de la Recette, Medina (tel: (04) 444 2493), and Marrakech Motos, 31 Route de Casablanca (tel: (04) 444 8359). Prices start at around Dh100 per day for a bike and Dh200 per day for a moped. Bicycles can also be hired from Hôtel de Foucauld, Avenue El Mouahidine (tel: (04) 444 5499), and Hotel Central Palace, 59 Derb Sidi Bouloukat (tel: (04) 444 0235), both just off Jemaa El Fna, as well as from a number of small operators around Place 16 Novembre, Guéliz. Business Business Profile As the city where southern tribesmen and northern Berber villagers meet and trade, Marrakech is second only to Casablanca as a commercial hub in Morocco. Since the Government embarked on a major programme of economic liberalisation in the early and mid-1990s as a response to a severe recession in the 1980s, Marrakech has become more receptive to foreign investment and trade. The main industrial enterprises around Marrakech are flour-mills, milk processing plants, breweries, canning factories and cement production plants. Mining is also set to grow with the discovery of large zinc deposits near Marrakech and there are numerous oil and gas fields in the nearby Essaouira region. In the late 1990s, foreign investment in Morocco, led mainly by France and the United States, more than doubled thanks to the privatisation of the country’s oil industry and the opening up of the banking sector. Shell, Mobil, Total and Elf are some of the leading foreign investors in Morocco and look likely to be joined by companies in other sectors as Morocco has one of the best transport infrastructures in Africa. Marrakech looks set to benefit, although the city is still dependent on tourism, which contributes about 7.8% of GDP. The city has excellent conference facilities for over 5000 people at the Hôtel Pullman Mansour Eddahbi, Avenue de France, Guéliz (tel: (04) 446 142; website: www.congrès.mar.com), and at the Palais de Congrès, Avenue de France, Guéliz (tel: (04) 448 990). Unemployment in the city is still quite high: official figures place unemployment at 13.6%, although other figures suggest it lies somewhere between 20-25% of the adult population. Business Etiquette Residents of Marrakech have a reputation for warmth, humour and directness, so it is unnecessary to be too formal when doing business in the city. In personal business communication, plain speaking and a willingness to make eye contact are much appreciated. However, over-casualness can be interpreted as rudeness or laziness so businesspeople should maintain a smart appearance, even though suits are not expected in the hot weather. Appointments for meetings should be made in advance and punctuality is respected. Negotiations often involve a great deal of bargaining and a visitor should expect to deal with a number of people. Although many executives speak English, French is the preferred language of commerce in Morocco. The normal business hours are 0830-1200 and 1430-1830 Monday to Friday (0900-1500 Monday to Friday during Ramadan). The Moroccans are immensely hospitable people but do also expect courtesy from their guests. If invited to a Moroccan’s home, it is customary to take a small gift for the women and children (sweets or pastries). Refreshments will always be offered, usually mint tea and it is impolite to refuse. Visitors should expect to be given up to three glasses. In addition, hands should be washed before all meals, which should be eaten with the right hand alone. Visitors should not smoke, eat or drink in public during Ramadan. At other times, it is sensible to be guided by the host. It is wise to refrain from asking for alcohol if it is not readily visible – the rules of hospitality require the host to provide it and this may be in conflict with his religious beliefs. While Morocco is an Islamic country it is very liberal by Middle Eastern standards so businesswomen should not feel intimidated when working in the country. They are advised, however, to dress conservatively and hemlines should definitely be below the knee. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Any visit to Marrakech will centre on the medina and square of Jemaa-el-Fna, the heart of the city. Many of the attractions are within walking distance of the square, with the rest being just a short taxi ride away. The Koutoubia Mosque is the main place of worship in the city and entry is forbidden to non-Muslims, although the architecture can be appreciated from the grounds, which are open to everyone. The numerous souks offer the chance to become fully involved in city life, elevating shopping to an attraction in itself. Whether making purchases or just soaking up the atmosphere, it is impossible not to get swept along with the crowd. When Marrakech becomes too intense, havens of tranquillity can be found in the many lush public gardens surrounding the city. Most of the main sights are very popular with tourists and suffer the problems associated with crowds. This is especially so around the Jemaa-el-Fna and the souks, where tourists are easy prey to pickpockets. Tourist Information Délègué Règional du Tourisme (ONMT) Place Abdelmoumen Ben Ali, Avenue Mohammed V, Guéliz Tel: (04) 443 6239 or 6179. Fax: (04) 443 6057. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1200 and 1530-1830. Groupement Regional d’Interêt Touristique (GRIT) 170 Avenue Mohammed V Tel: (04) 443 1016. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1200 and 1430-1800, Sat 0830-1200. Passes There are no dedicated tourist passes in Marrakech. Key Attractions Jemaa-el-Fna (Place of the Dead) The great square of Jemaa El Fna is the centre of medina life both day and night. By day, it is a market and gathering place with stalls selling fresh orange juice, nuts and dried fruit lining half the massive square. From lunchtime onwards, there is a scattering of entertainers and sales people but it is at dusk that it really comes into its own. At 1700, a clatter of carts announces the arrival of the food stalls, which cook up every variety of vegetables, fish and meat. It is now that performers of every kind, including snake charmers, singers, musicians, story tellers and acrobats, fill the square. They are joined by the healers and fakirs with pots of herbs ready to dispense cures for any ailment imaginable. The crowds are mainly Moroccans; this is not a spectacle just for the tourists. It offers a glimpse of medina life that has changed little since medieval times. Visitors should take plenty of loose change to the Jemaa El Fna, as the performers do expect some material expression of appreciation in addition to applause. Photos average out at Dh5 each. Jemaa El Fna is surrounded by cafés and restaurants, perfect places to escape the hustle and bustle by relaxing with a tea, coffee or light meal. Café Argana, Café de France and Café Glacier all have roof terraces with wonderful views. End of Triq El Koutoubia, Rue Mouassine, Rue Souk Smarine or Rue Riad Z El Kedim Transport: All local buses that enter the medina come through Jemaa El Fna including bus 1, 2, 3, 11 or 14. Opening hours: Mid-morning until late at night. Koutoubia Mosque From any approach, the first sight of Marrakech is of the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque, which dominates the skyline. Marrakech’s tallest building, it dates from the 12th century and was one of the earliest great monuments that created the classic Moroccan design. Each façade and each arch on the square minaret is different. Originally, it was covered in plaster with each tier decoratively painted, obscuring the intricate carvings of the stonework. Suggestions to restore it have been met with protests with many believing restoration will detract from its beauty. The architecture can be admired at close quarters from the surrounding gardens. These also contain the remains of Almoravid Palace and the excavations of an earlier mosque that was demolished because it was not correctly aligned with Mecca. Avenue Mohammed V Transport: Bus 1. Opening hours: Mosque and minaret closed to non-Muslims; gardens always open to all. Admission: Free (gardens). Majorelle Gardens Privately owned and maintained by the fashion designer, Yves St-Laurent, this botanical garden was created in the 1920s by French artists Jacques and Louis Majorelle. Within the walls, the perfectly manicured gardens, complete with pools, cacti, bamboo, coconut and banana trees, are offset by the blue wash that covers the paths, pavilions and garden walls – the overall effect is one of great tranquillity. The Majorelles’ old studio is now the Museum of Islamic Art. Entrance in side street off Avenue Yacoub El Mansour Transport: Bus 4 from Avenue Mouahidine; petit taxi or calèche. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1200 and 1400-1700 (winter); daily 0800-1200 and 1400-1900 (summer). Museum closed Mon. Admission: Dh40 (gardens); Dh15 (museum); children and animals are not admitted. Saadian Tombs One of the most visited sites in Morocco, the Saadian Tombs were only accessible via the mosque next door so survived in pristine condition until ‘rediscovered’ and opened to the public in 1917. The entrance is down a thin passage leading to an enclosed garden overlooked by two separate mausoleums, with over 100 mosaic-decorated graves scattered around. The principal structures of the tombs were built by Sultan Ahmed El Mansour for himself and his family and date from the late 16th century. There are 66 members of the Saadian royal family buried here altogether, along with a number of retainers and some much older graves whose identity been lost. Within the mausoleum, the rooms are richly decorated, with magnificent domed ceilings, stalactite plaster work, intricate carving and marble pillars. Visitors should expect long queues. Rue de la Kasbah Transport: Petit taxi, calèche or on foot. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1145 and 1430-1730 (closed Tues). Admission: Dh15. El Badia Palace This magnificent ruined palace, whose name means the Incomparable, was built by Saadian king Ahmed Al Mansour in 1578. It was one of the finest in the world, with 360 rooms sumptuously decorated in marble, gold, onyx, ivory, cedarwood and semi-precious stones, surrounding a vast central courtyard of pools, fountains and sunken gardens. It was the venue for parties of global extravagance. In 1696, however, Alouite Sultan Moulay Ismael moved the capital to Rabat, stripping the palace of anything valuable and leaving the towering mud walls to decay. Now it is inhabited by storks and pigeons but is used for two weeks a year as the main venue for the Marrakech Festival. In one corner (for an additional entrance fee) is the magnificent 12th-century minbar from the Koutoubia Mosque. Bab Berrima, off Place des Ferblantiers Transport: Petit taxi, calèche or on foot. Opening hours: Daily 0830-1200 and 1430-1830. Admission: Dh15. El Bahia Palace Consisting of a series of paved courtyards, a harem quarter and Andalucian gardens, El Bahia Palace was built in the 1890s by the grand vizier, Si Ahmed Ben Moussa and passed to his son Ba Ahmed. On the death of Ba Ahmed, the palace was stripped bare by the guards, slaves and courtiers leaving a great empty building. A small section of the palace has been refurbished for the royal family’s visits to the city, when it is closed to the public. Otherwise, the palace can be viewed as part of a guided tour. Rue Riad Zitoun El-Jdid Transport: Petit taxi, calèche or on foot. Opening hours: Daily 0830-1145 and 1430-1745. Admission: Dh10; plus Dh10 tip for the guided tour. Further Distractions Menara Gardens With its backdrop of the Atlas Mountains, it is no surprise that the Menara Gardens are one of the most photographed places in Morocco. It is also a popular place among locals for picnics. The best time to come is late afternoon when most of the tourists have left. More a working farm than a garden, the Menara was laid out in the 12th century by the Almohads. Around 30,000 olive trees are set around a magnificent water tank. The pavilion, menzeh, was built much later in 1870. The first-floor open balcony offers a wonderful view over the large expanse of water towards the mountains. Avenue de la Menara, two kilometres (one mile) east of the medina Transport: Petit taxi or calèche; or bus 11. Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk. Admission: Free (gardens); Dh5 (menzeh). Museums Marrakech has three excellent little museums, all set in historic buildings and offering fine, well-displayed collections of local crafts and fine arts. The Musée Dar Si Saïd (Museum of Morocco) is the official collection of fine carpets, carvings, jewellery, musical instruments and arms, housed in the 19th-century home of royal chamberlain, Sidi Said. Nearby, the somewhat eccentric Musée Tiskiwin is a beautiful riad (merchant’s house) containing the private collection of folk crafts belonging to Dutch expat, Bert Flint. In the heart of the souk, the Musée de Marrakech is another magnificently restored 19th-century mansion, built by the Menebha family and now displaying fine art, carpets, jewellery, furniture, ceramics, textiles and manuscripts. Musée Dar Si Saïd off Rue Dar Bahia, near Bahia Palace Opening hours: Daily 0830-1145 and 1430-1745 (closed Tues). Admission: Dh10. Musée Tiskiwin 8 Rue Dar Bahia, near Bahia Palace Opening hours: Daily 1030-1230 and 1500-1830 (closed Tues). Admission: Dh10. Musée de Marrakech Place Ben Youssef (in the souks) Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (closed Mon). Admission: Dh20. Transport: All three museums are accessible only on foot, although a petit taxi or calèche can drop a visitor within about 200m (656ft). Tours of the City Walking Tours It is only necessary to step outside a hotel to find a ‘guide’, offering to escort visitors around the city, for a fee. While it can be useful to have someone with local knowledge when first venturing out, it can be a hit and miss affair. As always, a fee should be negotiated in advance and visitors should be particularly cautious in the souks, as many guides have commission arrangements with shops and these will be the ones you will be ‘guided’ to. Official guides can be hired at a cost of around Dh150 for a morning from any hotel or from the tourist office but even these guides often have a commission arrangement. Other Tours Details of organised tours to destinations outside Marrakech can be found at the tourist office. For tours of the city and day excursions, grand taxis can be chartered for around Dh200 a day. Visitors can find grand taxis for hire at the ranks in Guéliz by the Post Office or at Jemaa El Fna. It is also possible to hire a calèche for a tour of the town. For both modes of transport, the price should be negotiated in advance. Travel Link, 19 Rue Mauritania, Guéliz (tel: (04) 444 8797; fax: (04) 444 8839; e-mail: nait@travellink.ma; website: www.travellink.co.ma), offers hot air ballooning just outside the city (30 minutes; Dh2500 for one to two people) and helicopter tours of the ramparts and High Atlas (30 minutes; Dh3500 for two to three people). There is also a growing market in more adventurous excursions, such as 4x4 safaris, Atlas trekking, hunting, fishing, and whitewater rafting in the High Atlas mountains. Operators include Voyage Voyages, 194/7 Résidence Firdaous, rue Mohamed El Baqal 15, Guéliz (tel: (04) 442 0667; fax: (04) 443 0310; e-mail: voyagevoyages@iam.net.ma; website: www.voyagevoyages.com). Excursions For a Half Day Atlas Mountains and Setti Fatma: Two of the most popular excursions to the High Atlas are to the Berber markets in the foothills, only about 30 minutes’ drive from Marrakech. Both are very definitely local affairs, with hundreds of Berbers arriving by donkey from remote mountain villages. However, the large Souk Tnine de l’Ourika (Monday morning) is perhaps becoming a little too touristy, thanks to the many coach parties who arrive each week. For a more authentic experience, there is the market in Asni (Sunday morning). Set within grassy terraces, at the end of the road that passes through the Ourika Valley is the riverside hamlet of Setti Fatma. The village itself is an unremarkable mud-brick affair but the seven waterfalls that tumble through the craggy rocks above make it a popular location. The first of the falls is quite an easy climb and it is possible to swim here in the icy cold waters of the rock pool or to sunbathe on the rocks. The higher falls are harder work and sturdy shoes and a good head for heights will be required, although there are plenty of guides willing to offer help. The best way to get to Setti Fatma is by grand taxi from the main bus station in Marrakech (journey time – 90 minutes). For a Whole Day Essaouira: This 18th-century coastal resort offers a welcome escape from the hectic atmosphere of Marrakech. A trading and fishing port with a history dating back to the seventh-century BC, it was largely rebuilt in the 18th century and modelled on St Malo, in France. With its sandy beach and blue-and-white-painted houses, it has a long association with artists, which continues to this day. A series of forts, a blend of Portuguese, French and Berber military architecture, built along the seafront lend a powerful mystique to the town. It was on the ramparts, the Skala du Port, that Orson Welles shot his film Othello (1952). While the cooling Atlantic breeze, the alizee, has made it popular for surfing, it can be too harsh for sunbathing. The tourist office, 10 rue de Caire (tel: (04) 475 080; fax: (04) 783 530; website: www.mogador-essaouira.com), can provide further information. The quickest way of getting to Essaouira from Marrakech is by grand taxi (journey time – 2 hours; with the possibility of seeing tree-climbing goats en route). ONCF Supratours Express Buses leave Marrakech train station twice daily (journey time – 2.5 hours). Sport Morocco led the rest of Africa when it came to falling under the grip of soccer fever and was the first African nation to qualify for the World Cup finals in 1970. Morocco’s impressive performance in the 1998 World Cup finals and the country’s success in the African Nations Cup during the 1990s has emphasised the depth of quality to be found among the country’s top players. Consequently, the country has several high-class teams, among them Kawkab Marrakech (tel: (04) 4444 6743; website: www.kacm.org), which is one of Africa’s leading sides. More information about professional football in Morocco can be obtained from the Federation Royale Marocaine de Football (tel: (03) 767 2706). Golf: The late King Hassan II was an excellent golfer, which probably explains why Morocco has some of the best courses in Africa. There are three fine courses near Marrakech, the Golf de la Palmeraie course, Les Jardins de la Palmeraie (tel: (04) 430 1010; fax: (04) 430 5050; website: www.pgp.co.ma), Golf d’Amelkis (Circuit de la Palmeraie; tel: (04) 440 4414; fax: (04) 440 4415), and the Royal Golf Club, Ancienne Route de Ouarzazate (tel: (04) 440 4705 or 444 4341; fax: (04) 443 0084). A round of 18 holes costs Dh500 at the Palmeraie course, Dh450 at the Amelkis and Dh350 at the Royal Golf Club. Skiing: From early December until March, enough snow usually settles on the Atlas Mountains to provide skiing. The ski resort of Oukaïmden, the highest in Morocco, is just 90 minutes south of Marrakech by grand taxi. With seven ski lifts, it is the best equipped in Africa. Equipment can be hired for the day, although prices will be a lot higher here than in Marrakech. The Royal Moroccan Ski and Mountain Federation, Parc de la Ligue Arabe, Casablanca (tel: (02) 247 4979), can provide information. Swimming: Les Jardins de la Palmeraie, Palmeraie Golf Palace (tel: (04) 430 2045 or 1010), is the closest Marrakech gets to a country club, with a swimming pool open to all for a daily entry fee of Dh500. There are also tennis courts, a golf course (see Golf above) and riding stables. Several other large hotels, such as the Sheraton, open their pools to non-residents at a price. Shopping Leading off from the northern edge of Jemaa El Fna are the winding alleyways of the souks, the vast crowded, chaotic central market of Marrakech, where browsers can buy anything from jewellery and textiles to herbs and love potions, carpets to camels. These are well worth exploration, regardless of whether the intention is to buy anything. Divided into sections according to the trade they conduct, they are best approached from Rue Souk Smarine, a busy thoroughfare, covered to provide protection from the sun, which runs for half the length of the souks before forking into Souk El Attarin and Souk El Kebir. The area the souks cover may at first seem like a labyrinth but it is, in fact, deceptively compact. Each area specialises in certain products; many are still workshops, with ironworkers, carpenters, dyers and tailors plying their trade in the tiny shop fronts. Bargaining is essential – visitors should start at around one third of what they want to pay. Having said that, real bargains are unlikely, no matter how much haggling takes place. The exchange rate is managed firmly by the Government and people have enough exposure to tourism and Western media to know the value of things. Visitors do not have to walk far before the first offers on carpets are made and those with the time and patience can easily spend hours drinking mint tea, head shaking, sighing and smiling as rugs and carpets are unrolled. A good idea of quality and prices can be found at the government-run Ensemble Artisanal, Avenue Mohammed V, near the Koutoubia, a small shopping mall and craft training centre, offering high-quality goods at reasonable, fixed prices. For those serious about purchasing a carpet, a good place to go is Bazaar Chichoua, 5 Souk des Ksous. Other things to look out for are copper and silverware, silk or cotton garments, wooden articles and jewellery, which can be found in Galleria Ministero del Gusto, 22 Derb Azouz El Moussine, in the souks, or L’Orientaliste, 15 Rue de la Libertie, Guéliz. For leather, Place Vendome, 141 Avenue Mohammed V, is a good bet. Shopping hours are usually 0900-2000/2100 Monday to Saturday. Some close for lunch; some may close on Friday; some, including those in the souks remain open on Sunday. There is no provision for tourists to reclaim any sales tax or VAT on accommodation or goods that they buy. Many people actively resist giving an official receipt, as this forces them to declare (and pay) the VAT. Culture Music is at the heart of cultural life in Marrakech, as it is throughout the whole of Morocco. In this city, as in the country, distinctions between public and private performance are practically non-existent, as many of the best performers are often to be found playing to all who want to listen at Jemaa El Fna. More formal cultural events take the form of festivals – as there is very little by way of dedicated theatre, opera or dance venues, although there are some Arabic performances in small theatres for those who wish to seek them out. Performances combining music, dance and theatre are extremely popular during the National Festival of Popular Arts (see Cultural events below). Music: Anyone with even a passing interest in music should head straight for the Jemaa El Fna. The best time to go for music is in the mid- to late evening, as the square gradually empties and the dedicated street musicians take over, playing their repetitive, rhythmic melodies on a mixture of mandolins, guitars, flutes, drums and makeshift violins. The most enchanting of the styles on offer is Gnawa trance music, best exemplified by the internationally-renowned band Nass Marrakech, which formed in the city. This music, a blend of African styles, combines repetitive rhythms and choric voices to create a trance-like awareness of the present moment in the listener. Marrakech is almost certainly the best place to enjoy the fusion of Moroccan music, as the city has been the host to Andalucian, Arab, Berber and African influences for up to ten centuries. For North African music lovers, one particularly good time to visit Marrakech is in June, during the two weeks of the National Festival of Popular Arts (see Cultural events below). Film: Marrakech and the surrounding countryside has long drawn many leading film-makers in search of stunning set locations. Alfred Hitchcock shot The Man Who Knew Too Much here in the 1950s and, more recently, Martin Scorsese used the city to evoke the biblical Holy Land in The Last Temptation of Christ. Gillies MacKinnon faithfully reproduced the Marrakech of Esther Freud’s novel Hideous Kinky in his 1999 film adaptation of the book. As a city for watching movies, there are two venues in Guéliz worth bearing in mind: the Colisee, on Boulevard Mohammed Zerktouni, and the Institut Français, on Route de la Targa, Djebel Guéliz (tel: (04) 444 6930), which shows mainly French-language films. Cultural events: The city’s main cultural event each year is without doubt the National Festival of Popular Arts, which takes place for two weeks in June. The festival has been going strong for 36 years and mainly takes place amid the ruins of the El Badia Palace. Traditionally, the festival is a showcase for the Moroccan arts and folk culture, with performances of Moroccan dance, Berber music and interpretations of Moroccan plays. Groups of musicians and dancers gather in the city from all regions of Morocco to show off their skills. Since 2000, European, Asian and American folk performers have also been invited to take part. The festival also highlights the ‘Fantasia’, a uniquely Moroccan form of entertainment that was originally conceived as a military exercise but is now a tightly choreographed spectacle with charging horses, trick riding and wild dancing. Those who wish to see a Fantasia at other times should head for Chez Ali, Route de Casablanca (tel: (04) 430 7730 or 444 8187). Literary Notes Some of the most focused writing on Marrakech in the last century has been by foreign writers. The Voices of Marrakech (1978) by the Nobel-prize-winning author, Elias Canetti, is perhaps the best – a superb memoir of the city during the last years of French rule in the late 1940s and early 1950s. Esther Freud’s Hideous Kinky (1992), made into a film starring Kate Winslet, is the definitive fictional evocation of the impact of Marrakech on idealistic Westerners. Gavin Maxwell’s Lords of the Atlas (new edition, 2000) tells the compelling story of the Glaoui family who ruled from Kasbah Telouet in the High Atlas. Among books by modern Moroccan writers there are few specifically on Marrakech but one Moroccan novelist worth reading is El-Khouri Idriss, whose novels include Al-Bidayat (Beginnings) (1980), Al-’ayyam wa Allayali (Days and Nights) (1982) and Madinat Atturab (City of Dirt) (1988). These books convey strongly the feel of everyday Moroccan life in coffee shops and other urban settings and show a firm commitment to representing the voices of marginalised members of society. Nightlife Although Morocco is an Islamic country, there is a laid-back attitude towards alcohol, which is widely available, with bars in most tourist areas staying open late. Locally produced wines, beers and mineral waters are excellent and good value but imported drinks tend to be expensive. By Moroccan standards, Marrakech has something of a reputation for its nightlife, which covers modern discos to belly-dancing. The medina provides traditional evening entertainment in the form of cafés, food stalls and street entertainment, with everything revolving around Jemaa El Fna. Several of the hotels have rooftop cafés overlooking the square, while a number of riads (historic merchants’ houses) have been converted into upmarket restaurants offering a full Moroccan experience, including a vast feast, music and dancing. For modern evening entertainment in the form of bars, restaurants and nightclubs head for Guéliz. Clustered along Avenue Mohammed V, particularly around Place Abdelmoumen Ben Ali, are most of the city’s bars as well as a wide variety of restaurants, bistros and pavement cafés. It is in this part of the city that the nightclubs and discos are also located. Many of the hotels have discos that attract both tourists and Moroccans. Although the hotel bars can be very insular they are often preferable to those outside, which tend to be a male preserve and somewhat intimidating. Clubs and bars stay open until late and dress code is casual. For nightclubs, expect to pay an admission fee. Bars: In the medina, the choice is somewhat limited, with most of the action happening outside, in the square. Head either to the rooftop bar of the Hôtel de Foucauld, Avenue El Mouahidine or the Hôtel Tazi, corner of Rue Bab Agnaou and Avenue Houman El Fetouaki. Guéliz has a huge selection of bars. Some of the more relaxed non-hotel bars include Le Mirador, the rooftop café-bar above La Renaissance, Place Abdelmoumen ben Ali, Guéliz, Café-Bar de l’Escale, Rue Mauretania, off Avenue Mohammed V, Le Petit Poucet, on Avenue Mohammed V, Iceberg, on Avenue El Mouahadine, or the Haouz, on Avenue Hassan II. The Palais des Congrès, Avenue de France, is a huge ritzy complex that boasts five café-bars. Café Oued El Had, Avenue Casablanca, just outside town, is a smaller complex of three bars, open until 0200. All the big hotels have bars. The most glamorous, within the city, is undoubtedly Le Churchill, the bar of the Hôtel La Mamounia, Avenue Bab Jedid, which has a sumptuous Moorish and Art Deco interior. Le Comptoir Marrakech-Paris, Avenue Echouada, Hivernage, both cocktail bar and gourmet restaurant, is probably the hippest place in town. Casinos: The Mamounia Casino in the Hôtel La Mamounia, Avenue Bab Jedid (tel: (04) 444 8981), has a Grand Casino, with roulette, craps and blackjack. A less grand alternative is Es Saadi Hôtel, Avenue Kadissa, Hivernage (tel: (04) 444 8811). Entrance for both is free but a tie and jacket are required. Clubs: Although Marrakech has a reputation within Morocco for nightlife, do not expect to find much in the variety of Western clubs. Morocco is, after all, an Islamic country and nightclubs that exist tend to be geared towards tourists and found mainly in hotels. Going under the name of discotheques, music tends to be a mixture of Western pop music and Moroccan hits. Many of the local girls who hang out there are prostitutes, those who are not would be shocked by Western attitudes, so tread carefully. The newest and most glamorous discotheques in town are the Cotton Club, Hôtel Tropicana, Lotissement Semlalia, Diamant Noir, Hôtel le Marrakech, Place de la Liberté, Avenue Mohammed V, Paradise, Hôtel Mansour Eddahbi, Avenue de France and New Feeling, Palmeraie Golf Palace, Circuit de Palmeraie. Live music: For all types of live music the place to go is Jemaa El Fna (see Culture). Sometimes you may also find a group playing in the grounds behind the Koutoubia on Avenue Mohammed V. The National Folklore Festival, held over a fortnight each summer in El Badia Palace offers the chance to listen to a variety of Berber tribal music. City Statistics Location: Marrakech-Tensift-Al Haouz, Morocco. Country dialling code: 212. Population: 184,000 (in the medina); 1,000,000 (metropolitan area). Religion: Majority Islam. Time zone: GMT. Electricity: Increasingly 220 volts, 120Hz, although many places still run on 110-127 volts, 60Hz; round two-pin, European-style plugs are standard. Average January temp: 14ºC (57ºF). Average July temp: 33ºC (95ºF). Annual rainfall: 240mm (9.4 inches). Special Events New Year's Day, public holiday, 1 Jan, throughout the city Manifesto of Independence, public holiday, 11 Jan, throughout the city Aid al-Adha (Feast of Sacrafice), religious holiday, Feb, throughout the city Fatih Mouharram (Islamic New Year), religious holiday, Mar, throughout the city Labour Day, public holiday, 1 May, throughout the city Aid al-Mawlid (Prophet’s Birthday), relgious festival, May, throughout the city National Festival of Popular Arts, two weeks in Jun, various venues Feast of the Throne, public holiday, 30 Jul, throughout the city Oued Eddahab (Allegiance Day), public holiday, 14 Aug, throughout the city Révolution du Roi et du Peuple (The King and People's Revolution), public holiday, 20 Aug, throughout the city Youth Day, youth celebrations, 21 Aug, throughout the city Setti Fatma, local religious festival lasting three days, end Aug, Ourika Valley Imilchil Betrothal Festival, marriage festival of the Aït Haddidou tribe, third week Sep, High Atlas March Verte (Green March Anniversary), public holiday, 6 Nov Independence Day, public holiday, 18 Nov, throughout teh city Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan), religious festival, Nov/Dec, throughout the city Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: Dh5 33cl bottle of beer: Dh10 (shop), Dh20 (bar) Financial Times newspaper: Dh18 36-exposure colour film: Dh50 City-centre bus ticket: Dh3 Three-course meal with wine/beer: Dh150 1 Moroccan Dirham (Dh1) = £0.06; US$0.10; C$0.15; A$0.17; €0.10 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.