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AUSCity Overview Set high on the eastern bank of the mighty Mississippi River, in the southwestern corner of Tennessee, Memphis is known the world over as an immensely musical city – the cradle of the ‘blues’, the birthplace of rock ‘n’ roll and the location of Graceland, Elvis Presley’s flamboyant mansion. However, there is much more to Memphis than music. Named after the capital of ancient Egypt – a reference to the Mississippi being the Nile of America – this city is a hustler, an enterprising metropolis with trade running through its veins. There is evidence that its origins as a settlement date back to at least AD1000, when Native Americans lived and worshipped here. The modern town was founded in 1819, after its strategic position, high enough above the river to escape flooding, had attracted the attention of European settlers. A natural crossroads between New Orleans, St Louis and Chicago, Memphis became an important trading centre in the mid 19th century and the main shipping port for cotton grown in the Mississippi Delta. Its climate was not inhospitable – although summers are hot and humid, the winters are generally mild – and the city soon grew, spreading eastwards from the river. Today, Memphis is an intriguing mix of old and new, with shabby warehouses and serene Victorian villas jostling for space with modern skyscrapers and gleaming shopping malls. The work ethic is strong among its mainly Baptist population and the city is home to many contemporary companies, although traditional industries are still important – as evidenced by the cotton exchanges in the Downtown area, which are still at the heart of the world cotton trade. It was cotton that indirectly spawned the Memphis music industry, as the blues evolved from songs sung by slaves working in the cotton fields. After the Civil War, rural black people flocked to the city in search of work. Beale Street in Downtown Memphis became the centre of black life and culture and the sound of the blues soon oozed from almost every building. Today, Beale Street is still a musical Mecca, a vibrant place where bands play in smoky bars, locals and tourists stroll on sultry summer evenings and young boys perform breathtaking backflips along the street. The laid-back atmosphere of the city, as characterised by the local saying: ‘it’s cooler in the shade’, has often concealed a rougher edge. Memphis was the setting for tragedy in 1968, when black civil rights leader Dr Martin Luther King was assassinated on the balcony of the Lorraine Motel. Tension increased, residents left for the safety of the suburbs and Downtown fell into a seemingly terminal decline. However, the city has risen from the ashes of hatred. The Lorraine Motel is now America’s Civil Rights Museum and millions of Dollars are being spent on revitalising the Downtown area. New museums and stylish restaurants are springing up and a vast steel structure, The Pyramid, has been erected on the banks of the Mississippi. Built as a sport and entertainment complex, it is a symbol of modernity – an appropriate reminder that Memphis is an Egyptian word meaning ‘place of good abode’. Getting There By Air Memphis International Airport (MIA) Tel: (901) 922 8088. Fax: (901) 922 8099. Website: www.mscaa.com Memphis airport is the world’s busiest cargo airport and a bustling passenger terminal handling more than ten million passengers per year. Located approximately 16km (ten miles) southeast of Downtown Memphis, the airport handles flights from 14 passenger airlines and is a major hub for Northwest/KLM, which provides daily transatlantic flights to Amsterdam. Major airlines: American Airlines (tel: (800) 433 7300; website: www.americanair.com) is the USA’s major airline. Delta Airlines, KLM – Royal Dutch Airlines, Northwest Airlines, TWA, United Airlines and US Airways all operate from Memphis. Approximate flight times to Memphis: From London is 10 hours 50 minutes; from New York is 2 hours 35 minutes; from Los Angeles is 3 hours 58 minutes; from Toronto is 3 hours 10 minutes and from Sydney is 14 hours 40 minutes. Airport facilities: Facilities include bureau de change, bank, ATMs, travel agency, restaurants and duty free shops. There is also a hairdresser, and a hotel. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz, Thrifty and National. Business facilities: There is an International Travel Insurance and Business Service Centre (tel: (901) 922 8090), which is located at Ticket Lobby B and open daily 0700-2030. There are two executive lounges, for which membership is required – the Delta Crown Room and the Northwest/KLM Royal Dutch Airlines World Club. Arrival/departure tax: A US Federal tax of US$25 and local taxes of US$15 are included in the price of the ticket. Transport to the city: It takes approximately 20 minutes to reach Downtown Memphis from the airport. MATA (tel: (901) 274 6282; website: www.matatransit.com) bus 32 operates weekdays 0644-1813 and Saturday 0747-1747 from the airport to Downtown Memphis. The bus departs from the lower outer drive near Terminal C and the fare is US$15 (one way). The MATA DASH (tel: (901) 522 1677; website: www.matatransit.com) shuttle bus leaves every hour weekdays 0530-2030, Saturday 0630-1830 and Sunday 0730-1730. The bus stops off at a number of hotels along the route and the fare is US$15 one way. Many of the city’s main hotels operate a shuttle service from the airport – reservations are advised. A taxi to Downtown will cost around US$15-21. These can be found on the lower level of the main terminal. Getting There By Water The Port of Memphis, 1115 Riverside Boulevard (tel: (901) 948 4422; website: www.portofmemphis.com), is one of America’ largest inland ports, handling 12 million tons of cargo each year. There are no passenger services. The port authority is Memphis and Shelby County Port Commission. Getting There By Road Travelling by car is the cheapest and most convenient way of one to get around America. There is an extensive system of Interstate highways (the US equivalent of motorways). These are the fastest, most direct routes and are designated by the letter I followed by a number, such as I-55. Some of these routes are tolled. The speed limit on Interstate highways is 105kph (65mph) for cars, unless stated otherwise. There is also an extensive network of federal, state and local roads and highways. The minimum driving age is 16 years old. Driving is on the right throughout America, although specific driving rules vary with different states. In Tennessee, just the driver and front seat passenger must wear seatbelts. Penalties for drink driving are severe and in most states, including Tennessee, it is illegal even to have an opened container of alcohol in the car. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. Drivers must carry their national driving licence with them when driving, as well as proof of their third-party liability insurance. The American Automobile Association – AAA (tel: (800) 222 1333 or (901) 761 5371; website: www.aaa.com) has reciprocal agreements with many foreign motoring associations. Emergency breakdown service: AAA (800) AAA HELP or 222 4357 Routes to the city: From the airport, the I-240 goes into central Memphis. Memphis is a major crossroads of the south. The main routes into Memphis include the interstates I-40 and I-55. The I-40 comes from Little Rock (Arkansas) through Dallas in the west and Nashville in the east, while the I-55 runs from St Louis in the north and Jackson in the south. The I-55 has links to New Orleans in the south and Chicago in the north. Approximate driving times to Memphis: From Nashville – 3 hours; St Louis – 4 hours 30 minutes; New Orleans – 7 hours; Dallas – 8 hours; Chicago – 9 hours. Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (800) 231 2222; website: www.greyhound.com) operates coach services to and from Memphis and around the country. Coaches depart from the coach station, 23 Union Avenue (tel: (901) 374 9617), for destinations such as Nashville, New York and Chicago. Getting There By Rail Amtrak is the country’s official passenger train company (tel: (800) 872 7245 or (215) 824 1600; website: www.amtrak.com). Trains run to Memphis Central Station, 545 South Main Street (tel: (901) 526 0052). The station was built in 1914 and recently received a US$24 million renovation, involving new cladding on the old façade, apartments to rent and banquet facilities. The station serves as a major passenger terminal. Rail services: Amtrak’s services are limited, although the City of New Orleans train does connect Memphis with both Chicago (journey time – 10 hours 25 minutes) and New Orleans (journey time – 8 hours 45 minutes). Tickets cost US$121.50 (one way) and US$69.50 (one way) respectively. Transport to the city: The area around the railway station is quite rundown and visitors arriving by train are advised to take a taxi to their destination. Getting Around Public Transport The transport service provider is the Memphis Area Transit Authority – MATA (tel: (901) 274 6282; website: www.matatransit.com), which operates bus and streetcar routes around the city. The telephone line is open for enquiries Monday to Friday 0600-2130, Saturday and public holidays 0700-1730 but is closed on Sunday. Since most residents of Memphis own cars, public transport in the city is not particularly good. Major bus routes generally operate between 0530 and 2400, although timetables vary and commuters should check these by calling the information helpline. The standard adult fare is US$1.25 and tickets are available for purchase on the bus. MATA also operates a streetcar service – the Main Street Trolley. Vintage trolley cars run in the Downtown area along Main Street and on a Riverfront Loop, every five to ten minutes. The service runs 0600-2400 Monday to Thursday, 0600-0100 Friday and Saturday and 1000-1800 on Sunday. Regular fare is 60 cents each way but drops to 30 cents between 1100 and 1330 Monday to Friday. Tickets are available for purchase on the streetcar. An all-day Main Street Trolley pass costs US$2.50 and a three-day pass costs US$6. These are available for purchase on board the streetcar. A monthly pass can be purchased for US$15 from the MATA Customer Service Centre. A Regular Adult Card, allowing ten trips on MATA bus services, is available for US$12.50 or US$25 for 21 trips, from the MATA Customer Service Centre. Taxis It is not possible for one to hail taxis in the street – they must be booked by telephone. Providers include Yellow Cab Company (tel: (901) 577 7777) or City Wide Cab Company (tel: (901) 324 4202). The first mile costs US$2.90, after which the fare is US$1.40 per mile, plus 50 cents for each additional passenger. The standard tip is 15% of the fare. Limousines A limousine service is provided by a number of companies, which include Armore Limousine Service (tel: (901) 362 7000), Cross Country Tours (tel: (901) 398 4476), Tennessee Limousine Service (tel: (901) 452 6207) and Taylor Made (tel: (901) 396 3565). Rates start from US$125 per hour. Driving in the City Memphis is a sprawling city and for areas outside of Downtown, a car is the best way of getting about. Traffic can be heavy at times, particularly during the rush hours (0730-0900 and 1700-1830), so drivers should allow for plenty of time for each journey. In general, the city is laid out on a grid, with avenues running east–west and streets running north–south. However, there are exceptions to this rule, including the Downtown area. The main east–west roads are Poplar and Union Avenues. These get very congested during rush hours and are best avoided. Locals have a reputation for being fast, aggressive drivers, so visitors should drive carefully. Driving is on the right. Right turns on red lights are permitted if it is safe, unless otherwise stated. Parking in Downtown Memphis is fairly inexpensive. Many hotels offer free parking, while the most expensive charge US$10 for valet parking and US$5 for self parking each day.There is a free car park on the cobblestones between Front Street and the river. Metered parking is also available on the streets at 25 cents for 30 minutes. Car Hire Some companies will insist on an International Drivers Permit, as well as a national licence, so visitors should check company regulations before leaving home. Most car hire companies require drivers to be over 25 years old. Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) cover is advised when hiring a car. All major car hire companies have offices in the city, located near to the airport. These include Alamo (tel: (901) 332 8412 or (800) 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: (901) 345 2847 or (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (901) 398 8888 or (800) 527 0700; website: www.budget.com), Enterprise (tel: (901) 525 8588 or (800) 3258007; website: www.enterprise.com), Hertz (tel: (901) 345 5680 or (800) 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com) and Thrifty (tel: (901) 345 0170 or (800) 367 2277; website: www.thrifty.com). Car hire in America is fairly cheap and rates start at US$30 per day. Bicycle Hire Cyclists can hire bikes at the Adventure Centre at Mud Island River Park, 125 North Front Street (tel: (800) 507 6507 or (901) 576 7241; fax: (901) 576 6666). The cost is US$10 for two hours. Peddler Bicycle Shop, 575 South Highland Street (tel: (901) 327 4833) hires out bicycles for US$25 for the day. Outdoors Inc. (website: www.outdoorsinc.com) has two locations in the city, at 5245 Poplar Avenue (tel: (901) 767 6790) and 1710 Union Avenue (tel: (901) 722 8988). Daily hire of a mountain bike costs US$25 with a US$250 deposit. Overnight hire is not available and equipment that is returned in an unsightly state will incur a US$15 cleaning charge. Business Business Profile The 18th largest city in America, with an unemployment rate of around 4.5% against the national average of 5.4%, Memphis is an economic success story. The key to this success is in the city’s diversified economy – Memphis has around 1000 different manufacturing plants alone – and entrepreneurial spirit. Many successful companies have been founded here. Memphis has built on its historic reputation as a river port and trading centre and its familiar image as ‘America’s Distribution Centre’. It has a wholesale distribution industry worth ten billion US Dollars and its international airport is the world’s busiest air cargo port. Most businesses are located in the Downtown area or in East Memphis. Eleven companies have their headquarters here, including Gibson Greetings, known as Cleo, which produces a staggering two billion feet of gift-wrap every year. Rather prosaically, Memphis also has one of the busiest cement terminals in America, shipping over 400,000 tons of cement each year. The city’s traditional industries still play an important role in its commercial life. Memphis is home to the world’s largest processors of hardwoods and it is still the world’s largest ‘spot’ cotton market, where cotton is traded ‘on the spot’, as it was in the 19th century. Memphis also is an immensely entrepreneurial city. Federal Express, the world’s largest overnight package delivery company, was launched here in 1973 and now employs 30,000 people. The first Holiday Inn was opened in Memphis in 1952, while, in 1916, the concept of the supermarket was born here, when Clarence Saunders opened Piggly Wiggly, the first self-service grocery store. However, it was Elvis Presley, not Piggly Wiggly, who brought Memphis to world attention and Graceland, his home, is the city’s main tourist attraction. The second most visited home in America after the White House, it attracts 700,000 visitors every year and contributes 150 million US Dollars to the economy annually. Business Etiquette Memphis is a friendly, laid-back city and this relaxed attitude often extends into the business world. There are no strict dress codes. At some companies, such as banks and law offices, men are expected to wear suits and ties every day. But in other firms, male employees wear smart-casual clothes, such as polo shirts and chinos. Sandals, shorts or jeans should be avoided, however. Despite this relaxed attitude, punctuality is still considered important and business cards are vital, being exchanged as soon as people meet. The working day tends to start early, at around 0830 and breakfast meetings are common, although their timing will vary. Meetings may also be held over lunch or dinner in hotels or restaurants. Most big companies prohibit employees accepting gifts over US$25-50, so offerings should be limited to mementoes from home or perhaps a bottle of wine, if invited to someone’s home. Most companies finish work at around 1700, although many people frequently work later. Memphis people enjoy a drink, although they avoid consumption at lunchtime, and many people smoke – the city being free of the stringent anti-smoking legislation so often found in other American cities. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Memphis spreads eastwards from its position on the banks of the Mississippi River and the best place for visitors to begin any sightseeing tour is Downtown, the oldest part of the city and the part nearest the river. This is the location of Beale Street, always busy with tourists exploring its shops, lively clubs and restaurants and the famous Peabody Hotel. It is a short walk from here to the bank of the lazy Mississippi, where a monorail slides high above the river and onto Mud Island and the River Museum. While Downtown can be explored on foot, other attractions are scattered throughout the city, which is so spread out that transport – preferably a car – is needed to reach them. Graceland, for instance, Elvis Presley’s mansion and the city’s top visitor attraction, lies 16km (ten miles) to the south of the city, while the best shops are to be found in the gleaming malls of East Memphis. A good introduction to the city is a trip on the Main Street Trolley, which runs along the river and through the heart of Downtown. Tourist Information Memphis Convention & Visitors Bureau 47 Union Avenue Tel: (800) 873 6282 or (901) 543 5300 or 5333. Fax: (901) 543 5335. E-mail: vic1@mcvb.org Website: www.memphistravel.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (Nov-Mar); daily 0900-1800 (Apr-Oct). Tennessee Welcome Center 119 Riverside Drive Tel: (901) 543-6757. Fax: (901) 543-6324. E-mail: vic1@mcvb.org Website: www.mephistravel.com Opening hours: 0830-1700 (Nov -Mar) and 0800-1800 (Apr- Oct). Passes There are no tourist passes available, although the Coupons section of the Memphis Convention & Visitors Bureau website offers some attraction discounts. Key Attractions Graceland The home of Elvis Presley, Graceland is the most famous attraction in Memphis. Elvis purchased the mansion in 1957 and lived there until his death in 1977. His rags to riches story embodies the American Dream and Graceland has plenty to interest the casual visitor as well as the devoted fan. A tour of the mansion includes the gloriously tasteless ‘jungle room’, with its floor-to-ceiling carpets that Elvis designed himself. In the Meditation Garden, visitors can see Elvis’ grave, which is always covered with bouquets and wreaths, sent by sobbing and adoring fans from all over the world. At Graceland Plaza, opposite the mansion, are a number of exhibitions dedicated to different areas of the singer’s life and obsessions. These include an Automobile Museum, containing his famous pink Cadillac. 3734 Elvis Presley Boulevard Tel: (800) 238 2000 (reservations) or (901) 332 3322. E-mail: glsales@elvis.com (reservations). Website: www.elvis.com Transport: By car, I-55 from Memphis, exit 5-B; a free shuttle bus runs every hour on the half hour, from 1130 to 1730, departing from Elvis Presley’s Memphis restaurant, 126 Beale Street. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-1700, Sun 0930-1600 (Mar-Oct); daily 0930-1600 (Nov-Feb); no tours Tues. Admission: US$16 (mansion only); US$25 (Platinum Tour, which includes all attractions); concessions available. Beale Street Historically the centre for black music and culture in the city, Beale Street is still the musical heart of Memphis and worth visiting just for its atmosphere. It is known as the birthplace of the blues, because it was here that W C Handy wrote ‘Memphis Blues’, so marking the very first time a blues tune had been put onto paper. His house is now a museum, the W C Handy House Museum, filled with photographs, memorabilia and some of the original sheet music written by the man who popularised blues. Beale Street is still the best place in the city for fans to hear live music, with bars such as B B King’s Blues Club. It is also the location of A Schwab, the oldest shop in the city, which has been run by the Schwab family business for 127 years. The general store sells everything from size 74 men’s trousers to various voodoo potions. Beale Street Historic District Tel: (901) 526 0110. Fax: (901) 526 0125. E-mail: bluesmaster@bealestreet.com Website: www.bealestreet.com Transport: Main Street Trolley stop 4; any Downtown bus. W C Handy House Museum 525 Beale Street Tel: (901) 522 1556. Fax: (901) 527 8784. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1300-1700 (summer); Tues-Sat 1100-1600 (winter). Admission: US$2. A Schwab 163 Beale Street Tel: (901) 523 9782. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700. Admission: Free. Sun Studio This small recording studio fully deserves its title as ‘the birthplace of rock ‘n’ roll’, for it was here that Elvis Presley made his very first recording, ‘My Happiness’. Sun Studio looks much as it did in the 1950s and contains musical memorabilia, such as a microphone used by Elvis. The tour includes outakes of recordings made there by the king and other Sun artists, such as Jerry Lee Lewis and Carl Perkins. It is still a working studio and artists like U2 have recently made recordings here. The adjacent Sun Studio café has an old-fashioned fountain where sodas and milkshakes are served. 706 Union Avenue Tel: (901) 521 0664 or (800) 441 6249. Fax: (901) 525 8055. E-mail: info@sunstudio.com Website: www.sunstudio.com Transport: Bus 10, 13, 20, 34 or 58. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800. Admission: US$7.85. Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum This museum tells the story of Memphis music and how it influenced various genres. It explains how rock ‘n’ roll – and later soul – grew out of the blues, gospel and country music of poor rural sharecroppers from Mississippi. The collection includes early film of Elvis and memorabilia, such as Ike Turner’s piano and Carl Perkins’ guitar. CD players are distributed to each visitor, so they can listen in on the songs related to each exhibit. These range from scratchy recordings of old blues numbers to famous songs from Memphis’ Stax Records, including ‘Dock of the Bay’ and the theme from Shaft. The museum is in the same building as the Gibson Guitar Factory, the manufacturing base for the world-famous guitars. 145 Lieutenant George W Lee Avenue Tel: (901) 543 0800. Fax: (901) 543 0888. Website: www.memphisrocknsoul.org Transport: Main Street Trolley stop 4. Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-1800, Fri and Sat 1000-2000. Admission: US$8.50. National Civil Rights Museum This museum is housed in what was formerly the Lorraine Motel, the site of the assassination of Dr Martin Luther King, in 1968. The museum traces the history of the civil rights movement in America, from slavery to the present day. There are various tableaux, such as one demonstrating Rosa Parks’ refusal to give up her seat on a bus to a white man – sparking a whole wave of protests. The most poignant sight of all is Dr King’s motel room, which has been preserved as it was on the day of the shooting. 450 Mulberry Street Tel: (901) 521 9699. Fax: (901) 521 9740. E-mail: contact@civilrightsmuseum.org Website: www.civilrightsmuseum.org Transport: Bus 11 or 19; Main Street Trolley stop 2. Opening hours: Mon, Wed-Sat 0900-1800, Sun 1300-1800 (Jun-Aug); Mon, Wed-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1300-1700 (Sep-May). Admission: US$8.50. Mud Island River Park Mud Island is just what its name says it is – an island made from the mud and silt that is found in the Mississippi River. It first appeared in 1900, was washed away and then reappeared as a permanent feature in 1913. Attractions include the bomber Memphis Belle, one of the most famous B-17s to fight in World War II and a scale model of the Mississippi River, which is even filled with flowing water. The main draw for visitors is the Mississippi River Museum, which covers 10,000 years of river history. 125 North Front Street Tel: (901) 576 7241 or (800) 507 6507. Fax: (901) 576 6666. Website: www.mudisland.com Transport: Monorail from Front Street. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (spring and autumn); daily 1000-2000 (summer); closed (winter). Admission: Free (general admission); US$8 (Pay One Price Package, includes museum, roundtrip monorail ride and a guided river walk). Peabody Place Museum There is much more to Memphis than music, as this extensive collection of Chinese art proves. Works come from the Manchu Qing (Ch’ing) Dynasty and include over 100 exquisite exhibits crafted from jade, ivory and porcelain. 119 South Main Street, Pembroke Square, Concourse Level Tel: (901) 523 2787. E-mail: info@belz.com Website: www.belz.com Transport: Main Street Trolley stop 5. Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1730, Sat and Sun 1200-1700. Admission: US$5. Further Distractions Peabody Ducks Possibly the city’s most unusual attraction, the Peabody Ducks live on the roof of the elegant Peabody Hotel. Every morning at 1100, the birds leave their enclosure and are led into a lift. With great fanfare, they emerge downstairs and waddle across a red carpet to the marble fountain in the lobby, where they spend the day. In the evening, at 1700 precisely, the performance is repeated when they return to the roof. Peabody Hotel, 149 Union Avenue Tel: (901) 529 4000 or (800) 732 2639. Fax: (901) 529 4184. E-mail: peabody@wspice.com Website: www.peabodymemphis.com Transport: Main Street Trolley stop 6. Opening hours: Ducks parade at 1100 and 1700. Admission: Free. Full Gospel Tabernacle Church The Full Gospel Tabernacle is the church where the Reverend Al Green preaches on most Sundays. The music is loud and the Reverend Green’s sermons are energetic and uplifting. The congregation dance – and frequently faint – in the aisles. Although attracting tourists, these are genuine religious services and should be respected. 787 Hale Road Tel: (901) 396 9192. Website: www.blackmemphis.com/churches.htm Transport: Bus 13, although a car is preferable. Opening hours: Sunday services run 1100-1430. Admission: Free. Tours of the City Walking Tours Like most American cities, Memphis is not really geared towards pedestrians and it is only the Downtown area visitors can successfully explore on foot. Memphis Explorations (tel: (901) 761 1838; fax: (901) 761 2557; website: http://memphisexplorations.com) offers customised tours, including a ‘Downtown Elvis-style’ walking tour every Saturday, April-October, for groups over two, by reservation. The Elvis tour lasts three hours and includes more than 20 Elvis sites, including his teenage home at Lauderdale Courts. Tours depart from the Elvis statue on Beale Street, at 1000. They cost US$10 per person, plus trolley fare. Bus Tours Blues City Tours (tel: (901) 522 9229; website: www.memphisite.com/bluescity) operates a variety of daily bus tours of Memphis. The three-hour ‘Memphis City Tour’ costs US$18 and takes in all the major sights, including Downtown, Beale Street, the Lorraine Hotel, Graceland, the Peabody Duck March and the Pyramid. Free hotel pick-up is arranged. Similarly, Coach USA (tel: (901) 384 3474 or (800) 222 0089; website: www.coachusa.com) offer a variety of tours, including a ‘Memphis City Tour’ costing US$27 and an ‘Elvis Platinum Tour’ costing US$37. Pick-up is available from all Memphis hotels. Both tours last three hours. Other Tours A trip on the Mississippi is one of the most relaxing tours available. Memphis Queen Line (tel: (800) 221 6197 or (901) 527 5694; website: www.memphisqueen.com) operates sightseeing cruises in traditional paddle-boats. Tours operate from 1 March to 30 November, departing from Memphis Harbor, at the foot of Union Avenue on the river. The 90-minute trip costs US$12.50. American Dream Safari (tel: (901) 527 8870; website: www.americandreamsafari.com) runs speciality tours of Memphis in a 1955 Cadillac. As well as offering a ‘Greatest Hits Tour’ of the city, the company also offers extended tours to help visitors explore the area in more detail. The three-hour city tour costs US$50, while an eight-hour ‘Delta Day Trip’ costs US$225, with a minimum of two people. The meeting point is usually at the fountain in the lobby of the Peabody Hotel, 149 Union Avenue, although hotel pick-up can also be arranged – a surcharge may apply if the hotel is out of the Downtown area. Memphis Explorations (tel: (901) 761 1838; fax: (901) 761 2557; website: http://memphisexplorations.com) offers driving tours of the city. Prices for a full-day trip to Tupelo, to see Elvis’ birthplace are set at a minimum of US$150 or US$75 per person. Hotel pick up is arranged. Excursions For a Half Day Chucalissa Museum: Located on the campus of the University of Memphis, Chucalissa Museum, 1987 Indian Village Drive (tel: (901) 785 3160; fax: (901) 785 0519; website: http://cas.memphis.edu/chucalissa), is an atmospheric reconstruction of a 15th-century Native American village, built on the site of an ancient settlement. The museum features a Shaman’s house and exhibits recovered from archaeological digs, such as a water bottle with a rattlesnake motif, cooking pots and dishes. The museum is open Tuesday-Saturday 0900-1700 and Sunday 1300-1700 and is best reached via the I-55, south of Memphis to exit 7, then right onto Mitchell Road. Admission is US$5. Alex Haley House Museum: Tennessee’s first state-owned African-American historic site, the childhood home of Alex Haley, is located in the town of Henning, approximately 167km (104 miles) from Memphis. The Alex Haley House Museum, 200 South Church Street (tel: (901) 738 2240), contains memorabilia of the Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Roots (1976). Haley’s burial site is in the garden. Located in Henning, Tennessee, the museum is accessible by car via Highway 51 north, or by arranging a special tour with one of the local tour operators. Opening hours are Tuesday-Saturday 1000-1700 and Sunday 1300-1700. Admission is US$2.50. For a Whole Day Tupelo: Down in Mississippi, approximately 160km (100 miles) southeast of Memphis, is Tupelo, a place of pilgrimage for Elvis Presley fans. Elvis was born here in 1935. The icon also lived in the town until his early teens. His home, the Elvis Presley Birthplace (tel: (662) 841 1245), presents a striking contrast to the excesses of Graceland. Other sights associated with the singer include Tupelo Hardware, the shop where Elivs’ mother bought him his first guitar. Tupelo also has a colourful museum, the Oren Dunn City Museum (tel: (662) 841 6438), which celebrates the history of the city. It includes a comprehensive display of equipment and clothing used by NASA on flights to the moon. These were obtained with the assistance of the local minister, who had once been the minister to some of the astronauts in Houston, Texas. It is also possible for day-trippers to visit Tupelo National Battlefield (tel: (662) 680 4025), the site of the Battle of Tupelo, the last major engagement of the Civil War in Mississippi. Tupelo is approximately a two-hour drive from Memphis. The tourist office for Tupelo, 399 East Main Street (tel: (800) 533 0611 or (662) 841 6521; website: www.tupelo.net), provides further information. Sport Baseball and basketball are the most popular sports in Memphis, which lacks a major league football team. The Memphis Redbirds (tel: (901) 721 6000; website: www.memphisredbirds.com) are the new local baseball team, a Triple A affiliate of the St Louis Cardinals. They play at the AutoZone Park, 200 Union Avenue, in the Downtown area. The enormous Pyramid Arena, One Auction Avenue (tel: (901) 521 9675; fax (901) 528 0153; e-mail: pyramidinfo@pyramidarena.com; website: www.pyramidarena.com), is the home of the Memphis Grizzlies (tel: (901) 888 4667; website: www.grizzlies.com), the city’s NBA basketball team, as well as the University of Memphis Tigers (tel: (901) 678 2331; website: www.gotigersgo.com), the local basketball team. This is a respected team, which has previously reached the finals of the NCAA Championships and matches attract large crowds. The Memphis RiverKings (tel: (662) 342 1755; website: www.riverkings.com), a professional hockey team, skate at De Soto Civic Center, 316 West Commerce Street, Hernando, from October to April. Tickets for major sporting events can be purchased from Ticketmaster (tel: (800) 521 7328 or (901) 525 1515; website: www.ticketmaster.com). Fitness centres and spas: Fitness centres around the city include Fogelman Downtown YMCA, 245 Madison Avenue (tel: (901) 527 9622; fax: (901) 527 9638; website: www.ymcamemphis.org), and Mona Spa of Well Being, 5101 Sanderlin Centré (tel: (901) 683 0048; website: www.spamona.com). Golf: Memphis is well served with golf courses, many of them open to the public. They include Stonebridge Golf Club, 3049 Davies Plantation Road South (tel: (901) 382 1886; website: www.stonebridgegolf.com), the par-70 Audubon Park Municipal Golf Course, 4160 Park Avenue (tel: (901) 683 6941), Davy Crockett Park, 4380 Range Line Road (tel: (901) 358 3375), and Wedgewood Golf Club, 5206 Tournament Drive (tel: (901) 521 8275), a semi-private, par-72 course. Green fees for most public courses cost US$32-56 for 18 holes. There is also Cherokee Valley Golf Club, 6635 Crumpler Boulevard (tel: (901) 525 4653; website: www.olivebranchgolf.com), where 18 holes of golf cost from US$29.50 (after 1300) to US$46.50 with a golf buggy. Sailing: The Memphis Yacht Club, Mud Island (tel: (901) 525 3808), provides information on sailing in Memphis. Jet skis and boats are available for hire from Sam’s Jet Ski and Boat Rental, 1875 McKellar Lake Drive (tel: (901) 486 2470; e-mail: gqthesigma@aol.com). Swimming: Memphis Park Commission (tel: (901) 454 5200; website: www.ci.memphis.tn.us/divisions/park.cfm) operates 16 swimming pools in the Memphis area. Tennis: The Memphis Park Commission (see Swimming above) operates 70 tennis courts around the city. Fees for outdoor courts are approximately US$3.00 per person for 90 minutes. Courts include Leftwich, 4145 Southern Avenue (tel: (901) 685 7907), and Wolbrecht, 1645 Ridgeway Road (tel: (901) 767 2889). Shopping A car is required to get to Memphis’ main shops, seeing as these are found in the enormous shopping malls of East Memphis. Malls worth heading for include Oak Court Mall, 4451 Poplar Avenue, Wolfchase Galleria, 2760 North Germantown Parkway, in the northeastern suburbs, and the Mall of Memphis, 1-240 at Perkins Road, in the south of the city. The city’s newest mall is Peabody Place, 150 Peabody Place, Downtown Memphis. Bargain hunters should head for Belz Factory Outlet Mall, 3536 Canada Road, where brand-name goods are available at up to 75% off normal prices. For musical souvenirs, it is worth visiting Shangri-la Records, 1916 Madison Avenue, which is an Aladdin’s Cave of vinyl records, cassettes and CDs. The most famous shop in Memphis is A Schwab, on Beale Street. This dusty emporium seems to have changed little since it opened in 1876. Shoppers may not be in search of size 74 mens’ trousers, 44 types of suspenders or voodoo potions but it is worth a visit just to look. Those determined to buy an Elvis souvenir should head to Graceland Plaza, opposite Graceland. On the third weekend of each month there is a large Flea Market, situated at 955 Early Maxwell Boulevard, open 0800-1800. Shopping malls are generally open Monday-Saturday 1000-2100 and Sunday 1200-1800. There is no state income tax in Tennessee, which means that sales tax is high at 8.25% and there is no way to reclaim it. Prices in shops are quoted without this tax added on, so foreign shoppers should always bear this in mind before purchasing anything. Culture The cultural scene in Memphis is dominated by popular music. It was here that W C Handy wrote ‘Memphis Blues’ and the young Elvis Presley was exposed to the black music that so influenced him. When Presley was discovered by Sun Records in the early 1950s, his distinctive sound took the country by storm and rock ‘n’ roll was born. In the 1960s, Memphis recording studio Stax Records helped to develop a new sound that had its roots in the civil rights movement. This was soul music. There are still several recording studios in Memphis and the city continues to inspire musicians, such as Irish band U2, who recorded some tracks for their Rattle and Hum album at Sun Studio. There are two unusual performance venues in the city. The 32-storey steel Pyramid Arena, One Auction Avenue (tel: (901) 521 9675; website: www.pyramidarena.com), which is used for rock concerts and large-scale events, and Mud Island Amphitheatre, 125 North Front Street (tel: (800) 507 6507 or (901) 576 7241; website: www.mudisland.com), the setting for outdoor concerts. The main performing arts venue is a restored vaudeville palace, the Orpheum Theatre, 203 Main Street (tel: (901) 525 3000; website: www.orpheum-memphis.com). By the beginning of 2003, the Memphis Cook Convention Center, 255 North Main Street (tel: (800) 726 0915; fax: (901) 576 1212; website: www.memphisconvention.com), should also have completed its US$92-million expansion project, which will include the building of a 2000-seat performing arts theatre. The Memphis Flyer is a free weekly publications that is available throughout the city. The main ticket agency is TicketMaster (tel: (901) 525 1515). Music: The Memphis Symphony Orchestra (tel: (901) 324 3627; website: www.memphissymphony.org) is well established and performs both classical and pop concerts from September to early May. The group currently appears at various venues around the city, including the Germantown Performing Arts Center, 1801 Exeter Road (tel: (901) 757 7500). However, the orchestra should have a permanent home late in 2002, when the new Memphis Cook Convention Center (see above) opens. Opera Memphis (tel: (901) 257 3100; website: www.operamemphis.org) is the state’s largest professional opera company. Performing at the Orpheum Theatre (see above), the company stages four productions each year, with occasional appearances by acclaimed soprano, Kallen Esperian. Theatre: Memphis has a lively theatre scene. For professional productions, there is the Playhouse on the Square, 51 South Cooper Street (tel: (901) 726 4656; website: www.playhouseonthesquare.org), which stages a large number of Broadway musicals. It has a sister theatre, Circuit Playhouse, 1705 Poplar Avenue (tel: (901) 726 5523), which offers still more plays and the occasional premiere. For highly respected community theatre, there is Theater Memphis, 630 Perkins Extended (tel: (901) 682 8323; website: www.theatrememphis.org), which presents everything from Broadway plays to alternative works. Dance: Thanks to professional dance company Ballet Memphis (tel: (901) 737 7322; website: www.balletmemphis.org), the city also has a reputation for top-quality dance performance. The company includes national and international award-winning dancers and stages contemporary ballets by choreographers such as Trey McIntyre, as well as classical works like The Nutcracker and Giselle. Performances take place at the Orpheum Theatre (see above). Film: There is no shortage of cinemas in Memphis and it is possible to watch anything from the latest Hollywood blockbusters to arthouse movies. Studio on the Square, 2105 Court Street (tel: (901) 725 7151; website: www.malco.com), has five screens showing alternative, foreign and speciality films. Other cinemas showing mainstream films include the 22-screen theatre at Peabody Place, Second Street, Stage Cinema, Germantown, The Majestic, Winchester at Riverdale, and Wolfchase Galleria, Germantown. There is also a multi-screen cinema at the Mall of Memphis, Perkins Road (tel: (901) 369 9642), and a 3D IMAX cinema at the Pink Palace Museum, 3050 Central Avenue (tel: (901) 763 4629; website: www.memphismuseums.org). Peabody Place also houses a 21-screen cinema and a 3D IMAX. Memphis is rapidly becoming a favourite with location hunters and a number of films have recently been shot in the city. These include Jim Jarmusch’s cult film Mystery Train (1989), about a group of Japanese tourists who come to Memphis for the blues, and Cookie’s Fortune (1999), a Robert Altman murder mystery. A number of film adaptations of John Grisham’s books have also been filmed here, including Sidney Pollack’s 1993 film The Firm, starring Tom Cruise. Cultural events: The city stages many international festivals, in addition to a number of local events. These include the Memphis in May International Festival, a month-long event that celebrates a different country each year and attracts more than one million visitors over this summer month. Events include the Beale Street Music Festival and the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest. In August, Elvis fans descend on the city for Elvis Tribute Week. Commemorating the anniversary of his death, this is a celebration of his life and music, culminating in a candlelit vigil at Graceland. The city’s most ambitious event is the acclaimed Wonders series of art exhibitions (website: www.wonders.org), which brings great international art to Memphis, for a couple of months every other year, displaying the works in galleries that reflect the architecture of the period. There is no Wonders exhibition in 2003, however. Literary Notes It was in Memphis that the career of the acclaimed playwright, Tennessee Williams, began. He wrote his first play, Cairo! Shanghai! Bombay! (1935), here and it was premiered in a Memphis theatre. ‘Then and there the theater and I found each other, for better and for worse,’ he wrote later. Not surprisingly, the Memphis music scene has inspired a number of books, including Another Good Loving Blues (1994), Arthur Flowers’ book about a blues singer’s move to Beale Street in the 1920s, when the blues was the hottest music around. Memphis is also the setting for many of the novels of John Grisham, who practised law in Southaven, a Memphis suburb, for ten years and who uses the city as an atmospheric backdrop to his plot-driven bestsellers. These legal thrillers include The Client (1993), The Rainmaker (1995) and The Firm (1991). Nightlife The bars and clubs of Memphis are so lively that some people come here for the nightlife alone. There is little differentiation between bars and clubs, as practically every venue has live music at least a couple of nights a week. Beale Street is the hub of activity and is lined with clubs that stay open until the early hours. While drinks in Beale Street clubs might be a bit pricier than at other outlets, they are not outrageously expensive. Drinks are priced at around US$3 for a beer. Clubs charge a small admission fee but on Friday and Saturday nights you can buy a US$10 wristband that will get you entry to all the clubs along the street. Dress can be as casual as you wish, although you might want to make a bit of an effort, seeing as the Memphis crowd loves to dress to impress – and flash their flesh. The minimum legal drinking age is 21 years old and you might be asked for proof of your age. Bars can stay open until 0300. Nightlife is not restricted to Beale Street, however. The Pinch Historic District in Downtown has several popular restaurants/bars and the area around Overton Square in Midtown is also worth investigating. Weekly updates of events in the city can be found in the Memphis Flyer (website: www.memphisflyer.com), a free local paper. Bars: While it can hardly be termed just a bar, the lobby of the luxurious Peabody Hotel, 149 Union Avenue, in Downtown Memphis, is an essential stop for anyone visiting the city. It is the most elegant venue in town and the very best place for people watching. The busiest nights are Thursday evenings, during the summer, when rooftop parties are held. Attracting a young, fashionable crowd is Sleep Out Louie’s, 88 Union Avenue, a popular oyster bar and place to pose. More down-to-earth places are Silky O’Sullivan’s, 183 Beale Street, an Irish theme bar where you can get a chilled Guinness, and Zinnie’s, 1688 Madison Avenue, a well-established, no-nonsense bar in midtown Memphis. If you want a burger along with your beer, head for one of the branches of Huey’s, said to serve the best burgers in town. You can find them at 1927 Madison Avenue, in midtown, as well as 77 South Second Street, Downtown. Casinos: Although gambling is banned throughout Tennessee, you only have to drive south over the Mississippi state line (about 30 minutes by car) to reach all the casinos you could wish for. Tunica (website: www.tunicamiss.org) is America’s newest gambling resort and has a clutch of 24-hour, Las Vegas-style casinos, such as the Gold Strke Casino Resort, 1010 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, and Isle of Capri, 1600 Isle of Capri Boulevard, Robinsonville. The legal gambling age at Tunica is 18 years – a picture ID or passport is recommended. There is no dress code. Clubs: Don your Stetson and head for Denim and Diamonds, 5353 South Mendenhall Road, East Memphis, for a night of line dancing. Old-fashioned cars are out in front of the red, white and blue building that houses Raiford’s Disco Lounge, 115 Vance Avenue, where there is smoke and mirrors and the dancing stretches into the wee hours. Another good dancing alternative is Club 152, 152 Beale Street. Now that Amnesia has closed, Backstreet, 2018 Court Street, is the largest gay club in Memphis. Live music: Practically everywhere in Memphis has live music at least a couple of nights a week, so your main problem will be deciding where to go. Beale Street is the starting place for anyone wanting to check out the Memphis scene. Perhaps the best known but also most touristy places are B B King’s Blues Club, 143 Beale Street, owned by the legendary musician and Elvis Presley’s Memphis, 126 Beale Street, which doubles as a restaurant and serves Elvis’ favourite calorie laden snack, fried peanut butter and banana sandwiches. More popular with the locals is Ernestine and Hazel’s, 531 South Main Street. This one-time brothel is now a lively joint with late-night rhythm and blues and rock music. You can also try Rum Boogie, 182 Beale Street, which attracts national big-name blues bands. For the ultimate in cool blues, take a taxi to Wild Bill’s, 1580 Vollintine Avenue, a smoky, no-frills juke joint that’s so good the locals like to keep it to themselves. The 32-story steel Pyramid arena, One Auction Avenue (website: www.pyramidarena.com), is the venue for major rock concerts. City Statistics Location: Southwest corner of Tennessee, Shelby County, USA. Country dialling code: 1. Population: 653,07(city); 1,147,826 (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: 58% white, 40.7% black, 0.2% Native American, 1.1% other groups. Religion: Mainly Christian, predominantly Baptist with Church of God in Christ, Methodist, Catholic, Presbyterian and Lutheran congregations. Time zone: GMT - 6. Electricity: 110-120 volts AC, 50Hz; flat two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: 5°C (41°F). Average July temp: 27°C (81°F). Annual rainfall: 1234mm (48.6 inches). Special Events Dr Martin Luther King Jr’s Birthday, commemorative events, Jan, National Civil Rights Museums Elvis Presley Birthday Celebration, concert and parties, early Jan, Graceland Dr Martin Luther King Jr’s Birthday, third Mon in Jan, throughout the city, with a tribute concert at the Temple of Deliverance Church of God in Christ Memphis in May International Festival, including the Beale Street Music Festival, World Championship BBQ Cooking Contest and Great Southern Food Festival, May, various venues FedEx St Jude Golf Classic, Jun, Tournament of Players Club, Southwind Elvis Tribute Week, celebration of life and work of Elvis Presley, early Aug, throughout the city and Graceland Mid-South Fair, family event with amusement rides, food stands and other attractions, mid Sep, South Fairgrounds, 940 Maxwell Boulevard Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$1.50 33cl bottle of beer: US$1 Financial Times newspaper: US$1 36-exposure colour film: US$7 City-centre bus ticket: US$1.25 Adult football ticket: US$20 Three-course meal with wine/beer: US$10-40 1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.63; C$1.51; A$1.67; €0.93 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.