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_City Overview Spreading out from the banks of the Mississippi River, in the north-central state of Minnesota, Minneapolis and St Paul are colloquially known as the Twin Cities. In Americans and Nothing Else (1980), Trevor Fishlock observes that these cities ‘are divided by the Mississippi River, and united by the belief that the inhabitants of the other side of the river are inferior’. It is true that there is a friendly rivalry between them, which dates back to the 19th century, when each city padded the 1890 census report in an attempt to be bigger than the other. Today, with a combined population of 2.9 million, the Twin Cities form the 15th largest metropolitan area in the United States and they flourish in happy symbiosis. St Paul was established in 1837 and christened with the dubious name of Pigs Eye, after a saloonkeeper who set up downstream from the Fort Snelling military outpost. Four years later, a chapel was erected and the town adopted its name instead – St Paul. Minneapolis was founded in 1855, on the west bank of the river, opposite the falls of St Anthony. Between 1860 and 1900, immigrants from Sweden, Norway, Denmark and northern Germany poured in to settle the Minnesota Territory. St Paul was the gateway to this new frontier and it became the state capital in 1858. The mighty Mississippi River was the key to the Cities’ growth. The falls of St Anthony provided power for sawmills and flourmills and by 1870, Minneapolis had become the flour milling capital of the world. Although the mills are now gone, food processing remains a leading industry and the Twin Cities metropolitan area ranks first in the nation for agricultural commodity and food product export sales. Electronics, medical and computer manufacturing, retail and professional services are among the other businesses that boost the thriving economy and make it one of the largest commercial centres between Chicago and the West Coast. Minneapolis has emerged as the more ‘modern’ of the twins, due to its policy of razing most of its old buildings. The Downtown area contains many striking contemporary buildings designed by leading architects. St Paul has more of a preservationist instinct, with many restored 19th- and early 20th-century buildings. Minneapolis appears more slick and sassy, while St Paul is a laid-back elder brother. Residents of the Twin Cities enjoy prosperity and a high quality of life – a clean environment, education and good health care are top priorities. With 949 of Minnesota’s 12,000 lakes lying within the Twin Cities area, outdoor recreation is a given. Miles of bicycle and jogging paths surround south Minneapolis’ ‘chain of lakes’. Both cities are rich in the arts and cultural entertainment, with the quality, diversity and number of productions and facilities far surpassing the norm for the size of the city. The Walker Art Center and Guthrie Theater are among the top venues in the nation. In 2001, work began on the state’s first light rail line, which will connect Downtown Minneapolis with the airport and the Mall of America. It is due to open in 2003. If there is a drawback to the Twin Cities, it is the weather. Winters are bitterly cold, with lots of ice and snow. Here is where the Scandinavian heritage comes in handy – residents take it in their stride and enjoy their fine hot summers all the more. Both cities have an extensive system of enclosed ‘skyways’ that connect Downtown buildings and enable pedestrians to move about easily, without braving the weather. The Twin Cities are somewhat conventional, long known for the so-called ‘Puritan work ethic’. They lie not on the cutting edge of style or trends but on a firm foundation of family orientated Christian values. But while largely conservative, they occasionally surprise onlookers with an independent bent, such as in 1998, when residents elected the outspoken pro wrestler, Jesse ‘The Body’ Ventura, as governor of Minnesota. Pundits recently called Minneapolis a ‘solid block of ice’ – a reference not to the weather but to its strong investment potential – as the continued good fortune of the Twin Cities seems assured. Getting There By Air Minneapolis-St Paul International Airport (MSP) Tel: (612) 726 5555. Fax: (612) 726 5236. Website: www.mspairport.com Minneapolis-St Paul International Airport ranks among the top ten busiest airports in the country, with daily services to some 25 international destinations, as well as 175 US cities. The Lindbergh Terminal handles most scheduled flights, while the nearby Humphrey Terminal primarily handles charter flights. The airport is located south of the Twin Cities, on the state road, SR-5. Downtown St Paul is located 13.6km (8.5 miles) away, while Downtown Minneapolis is 19.3 km (12 miles) north. Major airlines: Northwest Airlines (tel: (800) 225 2525; website: www.nwa.com) is based in the Twin Cities. The airline is allied with the Netherlands’ KLM airline. The domestic carrier, Sun Country Airlines (tel: (800) 359 6786; website: www.suncountry.com), also has its headquarters here. Other major carriers include Air Tran Airways, America West, American, Continental, Delta, Frontier, United Airlines, and US Air. Approximate flight times to Minneapolis-St Paul: From London is 8 hours; from New York is 3 hours; from Los Angeles is 4 hours; from Toronto is 3 hours and from Sydney is 20 hours. Airport facilities: Travelers Assistance booths (tel: (612) 726 5500), open daily 0800-2000, are located by the concourse entrances and on the baggage claim level. Volunteers provide information on airport services, tourist attractions, accommodation, transport, paging and translation services. Other airport facilities include ATMs, a barber and stylist services, arcade games, computer telephone hook-up and data port, duty-free shopping, foreign currency exchange, lockers, lost and found, nursery, postal service, luggage repair and storage, as well as numerous restaurants and shops. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National and Thrifty. Business facilities: The Pierson M Grieve Conference Centre (tel: (612) 794 4500; e-mail: confctr@mspmac.org) is located in the Lindbergh Terminal, on the mezzanine level, providing a number of business facilities and services. Private workstations can be hired for US$20 per hour or US$100 per day. Facilities include Internet connection and conference call telephones. Meeting rooms vary from US$50 per hour (US$250 per day) for a room seating up to eight delegates to US$100 per hour (US$500 per day) for the 100-seat Commission Chambers. All are equipped with conference call telephones, Internet access, project screens and boards. Other services include photocopying, printing, mail delivery and catering. Arrival/departure tax: All taxes are incorporated in the price of the ticket. Transport to the city: Information on transport to hotels, which is often complimentary, is available on the baggage claim level of the airport. The Travelers Assistance booths also provide information on transport options. Super Shuttle USA (tel: (612) 827 7777 or (800) 258 3826; website: www.supershuttle.com) meets all flights on request and provides inexpensive van shuttle service between the airport and Downtown hotels. One-way fares start at US$11 (for St Paul) and US$13 (for Minneapolis), while round-trip fares start at US$20 and US$24 respectively. MTC buses (see Public Transport section in Getting Around) run from the airport to both Downtown areas. Bus 7 runs to Downtown Minneapolis, approximately every 20 minutes during the day, while Bus 54D runs to Downtown St Paul every 30 minutes. Fares range from US$1.25 to US$2.25 (for the rush-hour express bus). Taxi fares to Downtown St Paul are around US$17, while Downtown Minneapolis costs US$24-26. Driving times from the airport to Downtown Minneapolis is approximately 20 minutes, or 15 minutes to Downtown St Paul. Getting There By Road There is an extensive system of Interstate highways, which are the US equivalent of motorways. These are the fastest and most direct routes between locations and are designated by the letter ‘I’ followed by a number, such as I-55. Some of these routes are toll-roads. The speed limit on Interstate highways is 105kph (65mph) for cars, unless stated otherwise. There is also an extensive network of federal, state and local roads and highways. State roads are designated as ‘SR’ followed by a number, while highways are designated by the letters ‘Hwy’, followed by a number. Speed limits are 48kph (30mph) in towns and 88kph (55mph) on highways, unless otherwise indicated. The legal driving age in Minnesota is 16 years. For UK nationals, a full UK driving licence is sufficient. Other nationalities are required to have an International Driving Permit, which must be accompanied by a full driving licence from their home country. Basic insurance is mandatory. Driving in the United States is on the right. The wearing of seatbelts by persons in the front seat and children under 11 years old is required by law. Children aged four years or under must be protected in car seats. Minnesota has strict laws against drinking and driving and driving while intoxicated is cause for arrest and a criminal charge. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving in 0.10%. The American Automobile Association (tel: (800) 222 1333; website: www.aaa.com) provides information and might offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries. Emergency breakdown service: AAA (800) AAA HELP (222 4357) Car hire companies generally provide a number for customers to call in the event of an emergency breakdown. Routes to the city: The Twin Cities are served by an efficient interstate highway system. I-35 runs north–south (south to Omaha and Kansas City) and has two branches – I-35E runs through St Paul and serves its suburbs, while I-35W runs through Minneapolis and its adjoining suburbs. The two branches meet again north of the city centre. I-94 runs east–west through both cities (on to Winnepeg, Chicago and Milwaukee) and intersects with both branches of I-35. The I-494 and I-694 form a large oval around the cities, called the ‘Belt Line’. This intersects with most of the major highways in the area. Other state roads into the metro area include highways 10, 52 and 55, which run roughly southeast–northwest, as well as SR-36, which enters St Paul from the east. Approximate driving times to the city: From Milwaukee, Wisconsin – 5 hours 30 minutes; Chicago, Illinois – 6 hours 30 minutes; Omaha, Nebraska – 6 hours 30 minutes; Winnipeg, Canada – 6 hours 30 minutes; Kansas City – 9 hours. Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (800) 229 9424; website: www.greyhound.com) and Jefferson Bus Lines (tel: (612) 332 8754; website: www.jeffersonlines.com) provide intercity coach services to and from the Twin Cities to destinations around the USA and Canada, including direct services from New York, Los Angeles, Winnipeg and Chicago. Both companies use the same terminals, which are located in the city centres. The Minneapolis Terminal, 29 North Ninth Street (tel: (612) 371 3325), is situated opposite the Orpheum Theatre and is just two blocks away from city bus routes along Hennepin Avenue and Seventh Street and Eighth Street. The St Paul Terminal, 166 West University Avenue (tel: (651) 222 0507), is located near the State Capitol building. Getting There By Rail Amtrak (tel: (651) 644 6012; website: www.amtrak.com) is the national railway service provider, with comfortable and generally reliable services, although it is always a good idea for travellers to confirm reservations and check train times prior to departure. The Amtrak Minneapolis – St Paul (MSP) railway station is located at 730 Transfer Road in St Paul’s Midway area, approximately ten minutes from either Downtown area. Facilities at the station are basic, with an enclosed waiting area, parking, vending machines and public telephones. Amtrak information centres are located throughout Downtown St Paul, including City Hall and Courthouse, 15 West Kellogg Boulevard, and the Landmark Center, 75 West Fifth Street. Tickets are available for purchase at the Amtrak station, on the website or reserved by telephone and picked up at the station – a photo ID is required for this service. National rail enquiries should be directed to Amtrak’s general number (tel: (800) 872 7245). Rail services: The station is on a major east–west line, called the ‘Empire Builder’, which runs daily from Chicago and points further east to Portland, Oregon and Seattle, Washington. Journey times by rail from Minneapolis to Chicago, Portland and Seattle are 8, 36 and 37 hours, respectively. Transport to the city: MTC (tel: (612) 373 3333) bus 16 serves the train station. The taxi fare is approximately US$12 to St Paul and US$17 to Minneapolis. Getting Around Public Transport Metro Transit – MTC (tel: (612) 373 3333 or (612) 341 4287 for 24-hour automated information; website: www.metrotransit.org), together with Suburban Bus Lines, operates 132 bus routes throughout the Twin Cities area. Some routes operate 24 hours – the Metro Transit office provides further information. Fares within the Downtown districts are 50 cents at all times. Outside the city centres, the fare is US$1.75 (US$2.25 for express buses), Monday-Friday 0600-0900 and 1530-1830 or US$1.25 (US$1.75 for express buses) at all other times and on weekends. Single fares are available for purchase on the bus, in cash only, as drivers cannot make change. Stored Value Cards, valid at any time of the day, are available for US$10, US$15 or US$20. A 31-Day SuperSaver pass, costing US$42, is also available, offering unlimited use of the Metro Transit buses for 31 days from first use. Passes are available online or from Transit Outlet stores, located at 719 Marquette in Downtown Minneapolis, the Downtown St Paul Skyway, the Mall of America as well as through some supermarket chains. Skyways Both Minneapolis and St Paul are famous for their skyways, a unique system of enclosed second-storey walkways, which connect banks, department stores, office buildings and hotels in the city centres, enabling people to shop and do business without ever going outside to endure the inclement weather. Some 60 blocks in Downtown Minneapolis are interconnected in this manner. Measuring eight kilometres (five miles), the skyways comprise the longest skyway system in the world. General skyway hours are Monday-Friday 0630-2200, Saturday 0930-2000 and Sunday 1200-1800. Taxis There are designated taxi ranks at the airport, the Mall of America and in Downtown Minneapolis and St Paul. Taxis must be telephoned in advance for all other locations. The basic fare is US$3 for the first mile and US$1.30 per additional mile, with possible US$5 minimum or surcharges for extra passengers or airport runs. Taxi companies include Airport Taxi (tel: (952) 928 0000 or (651) 222 0000), Rainbow Taxi (tel: (612) 332 1615), Suburban/Green & White Taxi (tel: (612) 522 2222 or (651) 222 2222) and Yellow (tel: (612) 824 4444 or (651) 222 4433). It is customary for passengers to tip up to 15% of the total fare. Limousines Companies offering a range of chauffeur-driven vehicles include Premier Transportation, 4225 Hiawatha Avenue, Minneapolis (tel: (612) 331 7433 or (800) 331 7433; website: www.premiertrans.com). Rates for an eight-passenger limousine start at US$75 per hour, dropping to US$69 per hour for three or more hours, plus 20% driver gratuity. Eclipse Transportation, 750 Bayfield Street, St Paul (tel: (651) 293 1111; website: www.eclipsecars.com) offers a similar service. Driving in the City Minneapolis and St Paul are laid out on grid systems that extend from either side of the Mississippi River. The main streets in Minneaplis run north–south and include Hennepin, Lyndale and Nicollet avenues. Major east–west thoroughfares include Broadway, University and Washington avenues, as well as Lake and Franklin streets. In St Paul, Snelling and Hamline avenues, Lexington Parkway and Wabasha Street are among the main north–south thoroughfares, while Seventh Street, University and Como avenues are major east–west routes. With a good map, both cities are fairly easy to navigate. Traffic is heavy during morning and evening rush hours (Monday-Friday 0700-0900 and 1600-1900). Entry to the interstates is controlled by traffic lights during these times. Winter conditions present the biggest challenge to drivers in the Twin Cities. Extreme cold and copious amounts of snow and ice make driving hazardous, especially for those who are not used to such conditions. During heavy snowfalls, parking is banned on many main streets, or only allowed on even- or odd-numbered sides of residential streets, to enable snow ploughing. Vehicles parked in violation of the rules are swiftly towed away. Up-to-date information on the situation is provided (tel: (651) 266 7569 in St Paul or (612) 348 7669 in Minneapolis). Metered parking, which costs from 50 cents per hour and often is free at the weekend, is available on Downtown streets. Meters take quarters (25-cent coins) only and parking time is often limited to two hours. Meters are strictly enforced and expired meters incur fines. There are also parking ramps (garages) and lots, which cost US$9-15 per day in Minneapolis and US$6-10 per day in St Paul, with lower rates at the weekend. On weekends and on weekdays after 1600, the ‘Do the Town’ programme enables drivers to park free with a US$20 purchase at participating shops, restaurants and clubs, who validate the tickets at the time of purchase. Car Hire To hire a car, drivers must be 25 years old and hold a major credit card. For UK nationals, a full UK driving licence is sufficient. Other nationalities are required to have an International Driving Permit, which must be accompanied by a full driving licence from their home country. Service providers include Alamo (tel: (612) 726 5323 or (800) 327 9633; website: www.goalamo.com), Avis (tel: (612) 725 5220 or (800) 831 2847; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (612) 725 9258 or (800) 527 0700; website: www.budgetrentacar.com), Dollar (tel: (612) 725 0644 or (800) 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com), Enterprise (tel: (612) 866 7650 or (800) 325 8007; website: www.enterprise.com), Hertz (tel: (651) 598 9585 or (800) 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com), National (tel: (612) 725 9500 or (800) 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com) and Thrifty (tel: (612) 854 8080 or (800) 367 2277; website: www.thrifty.com). The daily hire rate for a mid-sized car is approximately US$40. Rates generally include the mandatory liability insurance but visitors should always enquire whether rates quoted include Collision Damage insurance, as this is not automatically included in American car hire rates. Drivers should also check whether the rate includes unlimited mileage, which is recommended for excursions outside the city. Bicycle Hire The Twin Cities have an extensive system of bike paths, including dedicated commuter lanes along some of the main thoroughfares, as well as 85km (53 miles) of paved, interconnected paths, called the Grand Rounds, which run through parks and recreational areas. In Minneapolis, bicycles can be hired at Calhoun Cycle, 3342 Hennepin Avenue South (tel: (612) 827 8000), for US$6 per hour or US$24 per day. The Alternative Bike and Board Shop, 2408 Hennepin Avenue South (tel: (612) 374 3635), has a variety of hire options, including tandem bikes for US$5 per hour. The Bike Shop, 213 South East Oak Street (tel: (612) 331 3442), has three-speed, ten-speed and mountain bikes from US$10-18 per day. Business Business Profile The Twin Cities metropolitan area is a giant in American business, with many top national and international corporations headquartered here. More than 90% of the primary US industries operate in the state, making Minneapolis-St Paul a centre of finance, industry, trade and transportation for the Upper Midwest region. Minneapolis was recently named as one of the country’s ‘coolest’ cities for quality of life and quality of work experience. With a host of major corporations and a diversified industrial base, the region’s economy is strong. It is the fifth largest advertising market in the country. The workforce is well educated, with one of the highest (91%) rates of high-school graduates in the country. The unemployment rate is 4%, well under the national average of 5.4%. The Twin Cities also enjoy one of the highest standards of living in the nation. Fifteen Fortune 500 companies are based in the Twin Cities. These include 3M (maker of Post-it notes and Scotch tape) General Mills (producer of food and cereal products) and retailers Target Corporation, Best Buy and SuperValu (the largest wholesale foods company in the country). In the 19th century, Minneapolis thrived as a flour-milling centre and food processing remains one of its main industries to this day. Leading brand-name companies include Hormel Foods, International Multifoods and Land O’Lakes (dairy products). In 2001, two of the city’s food product giants merged when General Mills Inc purchased Pillsbury for US$10.4 billion. Medical manufacturing also is a key industry, with companies such as Medtronic, where the pacemaker was invented. Others include Honeywell, 3M and Weyerhauser. Carlson Companies, owners of the Radisson hotel chain, American Express Financial Advisors and the St Paul Companies (insurance underwriters) are leading players in the service industries. Several of the nation’s top retail companies are located here, including the Musicland Group, discount catalogue firm Fingerhut and electronics chain Best Buy. The commodities firm Cargill is thought to be the largest privately held company in the world, with annual revenues of over 50 billion US Dollars. America’s fourth largest airline, Northwest, is also based here. The metropolitan region is rated as one of the top ten large cities for small businesses. There is no one central business district and businesses are scattered throughout the area. Business Etiquette Businesspeople in the Twin Cities dress well and while suits are still the norm for both men and women in many offices and financial institutions, business dress has generally become more relaxed, particularly on Friday, when many companies allow casual clothes. In winter, practicality takes precedence over style and a heavy coat, hat, gloves and waterproof boots are essential. Outside work hours, the Twin Cities are definitely informal – only a few of the top restaurants require men to wear jacket and tie, while people attend theatre and classical music performances in everything from smart clothes to jeans. The normal workday is 0800-1700, with lunch generally taken between 1200 and 1300, or 1230 and 1330. Meetings can take place over lunch, breakfast or in a more formal setting, depending on the company and situation. Business cards are usually exchanged before or after a meeting. By and large, people are health-conscious and smoking or heavy drinking may be frowned upon in a business environment. After work, it would be more common for a business guest to be taken out for drinks or to a restaurant by the host, rather than back to someone’s home. If invited home, however, wine, chocolates or flowers would be appropriate gifts but are not expected. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview The key attractions are not concentrated in any one central area but are dotted throughout the Twin Cities, so sightseeing is most easily done by car. The key attractions of Minneapolis are arts-related and include the world-class Walker Art Center and the extensive collections at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts and the Frederick R Weisman Art Museum on the University of Minnesota campus. However, some of the most enjoyable times in the city are spent simply walking around the Downtown area, surrounding Nicollet Mall, admiring the architecture, shops and skyways, or exploring the historic area around St Anthony Falls along the river or the trendy Uptown district. Highlights of St Paul include the Science Museum, the Downtown area, the State Capitol and the Victorian houses along Summit Avenue. The Twin Cities’ major parks and lakes are also delightful distractions. Tourist Information Minneapolis Information & Visitor Center First Floor, City Center, 40 South Seventh Street, corner of Nicollet Mall and Seventh Street, Minneapolis Tel: (612) 335 5827. Website: www.minneapolis.org Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1200-1700. St Paul Convention and Visitors Bureau 175 West Kellogg Boulevard, Suite 502, St Paul Tel: (651) 265 4900 or (800) 627 6101. Website: www.stpaulcvb.org Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1700. Passes A five-day Arts and Museum Pass allows visitors admission to 12 participating venues, including the Science Museum and Children’s Museum. The pass costs US$20 (concessions are available) and is available for purchase at the visitors centres (see above) and other locations. Key Attractions Walker Art Center One of the country’s top contemporary art centres, the Walker Art Center, has a permanent collection of paintings, drawings, prints and sculpture featuring works by Mark Rothko, Andy Warhol, Willem de Kooning and other leading artists. It also stages inspiring travelling exhibitions, as well as a series of music, dance, theatre and film performances. Building expansion is currently planned in conjunction with architects Herzog and de Meuron, of London’s Tate Modern fame. Adjacent to the Walker Art Centre, the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden covers four hectares (11 acres) and in doing so is the largest urban sculpture garden in the USA. It contains works by Alexander Calder and Ellsworth Kelly, as well as ‘Spoonbridge and Cherry’, designed by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen, which has become a symbol of the city. 725 Vineland Place, Minneapolis Tel: (612) 375 7622. Website: www.walkerart.org Transport: Bus 22. Opening hours: Mon-Wed and Fri-Sat 1000-1700, Thurs 1000-2100, Sun 1100-1700 (museum); daily 0600-2400 (garden). Admission: US$6 (museum); free (garden). Minneapolis Institute of Arts Housed in a striking white marble Beaux Arts building and designed by the renowned American firm of architects, McKim, Mead and White, in 1915, the Minneapolis Institute of Arts contains an outstanding collection of over 85,000 artworks, dating back to 2000BC. These range from old masters and contemporary regional art to Asian and African pieces. Highlights include a fine collection of French Impressionists, a tapestry collection and period rooms. 2400 Third Avenue South, Minneapolis Tel: (612) 870 3131. Website: www.artsmia.org Transport: Bus 9. Opening hours: Mon-Wed and Sat 1000-1700, Thurs-Fri 1000-2100, Sun 1200-1700. Admission: Free. Frederick R Weisman Art Museum This museum features American artists of the early 20th century, including Georgia O’Keeffe and an extensive collection of works by Marsden Hartley and Alfred Maurer, as well as pieces by a number of contemporary artists. The ‘World’s Fair Mural’ at the entrance is by Roy Lichtenstein. The brick and stainless steel building is itself a sculptural masterpiece, designed by Frank Gehry, in 1993. 333 East River Road, Minneapolis Tel: (612) 625 9494. Website: www.weisman.umn.edu Transport: Bus 2, 16A, 16C. Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri 1000-1700, Thurs 1000-2000, Sat-Sun 1100-1700. Admission: Free. Cathedral of St Paul Set on a hill, overlooking the city and the Mississippi River, this impressive cathedral is one of the country’s largest churches and seats 3000 people. The Cathedral of St Paul was designed by architect Emmanuel Masqueray and took nearly a decade to build, opening in 1915. It is topped by an enormous 57m-high (186ft) copper dome. The Shrines of Nations honour the various nationalities that have settled in Minnesota. Guided tours are offered on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 1300. 239 Selby Avenue at Summit Avenue, St Paul Tel: (651) 228 1766. Website: www.cathedralsp.org Transport: Bus 21. Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0800-1800, Fri 0800-1600. Admission: Donation. Minnesota State Capitol The Italian Renaissance-style State Capitol building (1904) is a masterpiece by architect Cass Gilbert. Over two dozen varieties of marble, granite and sandstone were used in its construction and throughout the lavish interior. The crowning glory is the unsupported marble dome, which rises 73m (220ft) high. The State Capitol is set high on a hilltop and affords sweeping views over the city and Mississippi River Valley. Tours are offered on the hour until one hour before closing. 75 Constitution Avenue, St Paul Tel: (651) 296 2881. Website: www.mnhs.org/statecapitol Transport: Bus 94B/C/D. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 1000-1600 and Sun 1300-1600. Admission: Free. James J Hill House Life in America’s so-called ‘Gilded Age’ (the late 19th century) is on display in the former home of Great Northern Railway magnate James J Hill. The enormous stone Richardsonian Romanesque mansion, completed in 1891, measures 3240 sq metres (36,000 sq ft) and is an ode to opulence, with crystal chandeliers, stained-glass windows, sky-lit art gallery, intricate wood carving and a huge pipe organ. 240 Summit Avenue, St Paul Tel: (651) 297 2555. Website: www.mnhs.org/hillhouse Transport: Bus 21 or 52F. Opening hours: Tours Wed-Sat, every half hour 1000-1530; reservations need to be made in advance. Admission: US$6 (with reserved tour only). Landmark Center Dedicated as a federal courthouse, in 1902, this ornate Victorian jewel, with its fairytale turrets and towers, was saved from demolition in the 1960s and is now used for art exhibitions and civic activities. Originally, the Landmark Center would have witnessed many gangster trials, in the 1920s and 1930s, seeing as St Paul was notorious as a safe haven for Big City gangsters, such as Ma Barker, John Dillinger and George ‘Machine Gun’ Kelly. Interior rooms are extravagantly decorated with high ceilings, marble and mahogany details. There are free guided tours on Thursday at 1100, Sunday at 1200 and by appointment. The meeting place for the tours is at the Information Desk. The Minnesota Museum of American Art, with a diverse permanent collection covering American art from the 19th and 20th centuries, is located here. 75 West Fifth Street, St Paul Tel: (651) 292 3225. Website: www.landmarkcenter.org Transport: Bus 21, 51, 361 and many others. Opening hours: Mon-Wed and Fri 0800-1700, Thurs 0800-2000, Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700. Admission: Free. Minnesota Museum of American Art Tel: (651) 292 4355. Website: www.mmaa.org Opening hours: Tues, Wed, Fri and Sat 1100-1600, Thurs 1100-1930, Sun 1300-1700. Admission: US$5. Minnesota History Center Impressive displays on Minnesota history and culture are spread throughout this purpose-built, three-storey building, which was completed in 1992. Different aspects of Minnesota history and culture are creatively portrayed according to the alphabet, such as ‘B for Baseball’ and ‘Z for Below-Zero’. 345 West Kellogg Boulevard, St Paul Tel: (651) 296 6126 or (800) 657 3773. Website: www.mnhs.org Transport: Bus 12 or 21. Opening hours: Tues 1000-2000, Wed-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700. Admission: Free. Science Museum of Minnesota Housed in a brand-new facility, which opened in late 1999, this city favourite combines science and entertainment, with plenty of hands-on and high-tech exhibits amid the outstanding collections of fossils and artefacts. The McKnight-3M Omnitheater shows state-of-the-art IMAX films on a 27m (90ft) diameter screen and there are also 3D laser shows. 120 West Kellogg Boulevard, St Paul Tel: (651) 221 9444. Website: www.smm.org Transport: Bus 22. Opening hours: Mon-Wed 0930-1700, Thurs-Sat 0930-2100, Sun 1030-1700. Admission: US$8 (museum only); US$13.50 (museum, laser show and Omnitheater). Further Distractions Minnehaha Park Winding along the Mississippi River, Minnehaha Park contains the city’s first frame house, located west of the river. There are views over Minnehaha Falls and a statue commemorating the Native Americans, Hiawatha and Minnehaha, who were the subjects of Longfellow’s famous poem, ‘The Song of Hiawatha’. Hiawatha Avenue and Minnehaha Parkway Transport: Bus 7 or 12. Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk. Admission: Free. Historic Fort Snelling This 1820s US Army outpost has been restored to depict military life in the frontier era. Costumed guides on the site demonstrate musket and cannon drills, blacksmithing and other skills, while the history centre contains exhibits and videos. Junction of highways 5 and 55, Fort Snelling exits Tel: (612) 725 2413 or 726 1171. E-mail: ftsnelling@mnhs.org Website: www.mnhs.org Transport: By car along Hwy-5 or Hwy-55. Opening hours: Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700 (May and Sep-Oct); Wed-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700 (late May-early Sep); closed (Nov-Apr). Admission: US$6 (concessions available). Tours of the City Walking Tours Self-guided tours run along the St Anthony Falls Heritage Trail, a three-kilometre (two-mile) riverfront loop that takes in the historic flour-milling district, including views of this Mississippi River waterfall from the restored Stone Arch Bridge and Nicollet Island. The trail starts at the St Anthony Falls Historic District Visitor Center, 125 Main Street South East (tel: (612) 627 5433). The visitor centre is open Wednesday-Sunday 1200-1700 (May-October). There are brochures for the tour outside the centre at all times. Set in a former underground nightclub, Down In History Tours, 215 Wabasha Street, St Paul (tel: (651) 292 1220; website: www.wabashastreetcaves.com), offers popular tours of the Wabasha Street Caves in St Paul, as well as a number of themed bus tours. A 45-minute walking tour of the Wabasha Street Caves costs US$5, meeting at 215 Wabasha Street South, St Paul, on Saturday and Sunday at 1100 and Thursday at 1700. Coach and Trolley Tours Metro Connections (tel: (612) 333 8687 or (800) 747 8687; website: www.metroconnections.com) offers sightseeing tours of the Twin Cities aboard deluxe coaches, with departures from either Minneapolis or St Paul. There are daily morning and afternoon tours of approximately three hours for a Twin Cities Highlights tour, with prices quoted as US$25. The highlights in question include the Nicollet Mall, the Downtown skyway network and the Metrodome. Tours run daily (June-August), Wednesday-Sunday (September-October) and on weekends or just Saturday at other times of the year. Among a choice of departure points and times, the Twin Cities Highlights tour sets off at 1030 and 1355 from the Mall of America (Transit Center). Capital City Trolley (tel: (651) 223 5600) offers a one-hour narrated tour aboard a historic trolley, covering St Paul’s highlights and the Mississippi riverfront. Tours operate on Tuesday and Thursday 1000-1300 (May-October), cost US$15 and are available through reservation only (Monday-Friday 0900-1500). The trolley runs from the steps of the Capitol, along the Mississippi riverfront to James J Hill’s Summit Avenue mansion. The Minneapolis RiverCity Trolley (tel: (612) 204 0000 or 378 7833) provides 65-minute tours of the Downtown and historic areas of Minneapolis, in replica turn-of-the-century trolley cars. Tours operate every 30 minutes, daily 1000-1600 (May-October), from the Minneapolis Convention Center and St Anthony Main. Passengers can also board at the Walker Art Center, Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis Institute of Arts and the Lake Harriet area. The fare is US$10 for a single tour, US$15 for an all-day pass and US$20 for a three-day pass. Single and day passes are sold on the trolley (exact change is required), while tickets are sold in advance at the Minneapolis Visitor Center (see Tourist Information). Boat Tours Padelford Packet Boat Co (tel: (651) 227 1100 or (800) 543 3908; website: www.riverrides.com) floats visitors down the Mississippi River in restored riverboats, with commentary on the historic sites of Minneapolis and St Paul. Dining and entertainment, including live theatre during the summer, are available. The 90-minute cruises depart from both Harriet Island in St Paul and Boom Island in Minneapolis, daily at 1200 and 1400 (June-August), Saturday and Sunday at 1400 (May and September). Fares cost US$12. During October, special ‘Fall Color’ cruises run on Sunday at 1400-1630, costing US$14. Boats depart from both Minneapolis and St Paul. Excursions For a Half Day Stillwater: Set along the banks of the St Croix River, 32km (20 miles) north of the Twin Cities, Stillwater is Minnesota’s oldest town. Downtown contains many well-preserved, 19th-century buildings, which visitors can admire from the Rivertown trolley. Stillwater is a centre for antiques and speciality shops and has many good restaurants. Pleasure boats cruising the river dock here in summer. Taylors Falls, 24km (15 miles) north, is another historic town surrounded by stunning scenery and rock formations called the Dalles. The most scenic route for driving to Stillwater is I-94 east, exit on Highway 95, north to Bayport. The Chamber of Commerce (tel: (651) 439 7700) can provide further information on Stillwater. For a Whole Day Red Wing: The old river town of Red Wing lies 80.5 km (50 miles) southeast of the Twin Cities, in the Hiawatha Valley. The area is known for its scenic bluffs overlooking the Mississippi River. Among the restored 19th-century buildings in the historic town centre are the Sheldon Theatre and the St James Hotel. A major attraction is the Red Wing Pottery, where visitors can see how pottery was produced between the 1880s and mid-1990s. Scenic attractions nearby include Frontenac State Park or a longer drive around Lake Pepin, through delightful towns such as Pepin and Lake City. Red Wing is off Highway 61, turning south of the I-494. Further information is available from Red Wing Visitors and Convention Bureau, 418 Levee Street (tel: (651) 385 5934 or (800) 498 3444; website: www.redwing.org). Great River Road: This popular route through the Hiawatha Valley, south of the Twin Cities, loops around Lake Pepin, a beautiful 42km (26-mile) stretch of water, bordered by scenic bluffs, which forms the widest part of the Mississippi River. The entire loop is 137km (85 miles) and starts from the I-494 (just east of St Paul). Highway 61, turning south, goes to the old river town of Red Wing (see above). From here, the route travels south through the delightful towns of Frontenac, with its historic buildings, and Lake City, with its scenic river vistas. At Wabasha, another historic river town, there is a bridge to Nelson in Wisconsin and the return loop back to Red Wing on Highway 35. Highlights on the return journey include the town of Pepin – birthplace of Little House on the Prairie author Laura Ingalls Wilder – tiny Stockholm, with its antiques and gift shops, and the picturesque town of Maiden Rock. The Minnesota Mississippi River Parkway Commission (tel: (763) 212 2560; fax: (763) 212 2533; e-mail: info@mnmississippiriver.com; website: www.mnmississippiriver.com) provides further information. Sport Minnesota is the ‘land of lakes’ and 22 of them lie within the Minneapolis city limits. If people are not on them or in them – swimming, fishing, boating and enjoying watersports – they are walking, jogging, skating or cycling around them, utilising an extensive system of bike and pedestrian paths. More than 2400 hectares (6000 acres) of the city are devoted to parklands and St Paul also has an impressive number of beautiful parks. Large regional parks lie on the western and southern edges of the metro area. Outdoor recreation does not stop in the winter, as downhill and cross-country skiing and other wintersports are highly popular. Three Rivers Park District (tel: (763) 559 9000; website: www.threeriversparkdistrict.org) operates 14 county parks in the metropolitan area, with nature centres, campgrounds, boat launches, golf courses and trails for hiking, biking and cross-country skiing. Como Park, Hamline Avenue and West Jessamine Avenue, St Paul, is a popular city park laid out in Victorian times, with a boating lake, concert pavilion, carousel, conservatory and a small zoo. The Minneapolis Chain of Lakes comprises the parkland surrounding Lake Calhoun, Lake Harriet, Lake of the Isles and Cedar Lake, which are connected by bicycle and walking paths. The Alternative Bike and Board Shop, 2408 Hennepin Avenue South (tel: (612) 374 3635), hires out bicycles, skateboards and snowboards. Bay Rentals (tel: (952) 474 0366) provides snowmobile and jet-ski hire on Lake Minnetonka and elsewhere. Canoes are available for hire from Ketter Canoeing (tel: (612) 560 3840) or Midwest Mountaineering (tel: (612) 339 3433). The baseball teams are the major league Minnesota Twins (tel: (612) 375 7454 or (800) 338 9467; website: www.twinsbaseball.com) and the northern league St Paul Saints (tel: (651) 644 6659; website: www.spsaints.com). The baseball season runs from April to October. The American Football League team, the Minnesota Vikings (tel: (952) 828 6500; website: www.vikings.com), plays from August to December. Both the Twins and the Vikings play at Hubert H Humphrey Metrodome, 501 Chicago Avenue South in Downtown Minneapolis (tel: (612) 332 0386), while the Saints play at Midway Stadium, 1771 Energy Park Drive, St Paul (tel: (651) 644 6659). The Target Center, 600 First Avenue North, Minneapolis (tel: (612) 673 1300; website: www.targetcenter.com), is home to the cities’ two basketball teams. The men’s team, Minnesota Timberwolves (tel: (612) 337 3865; website: www.timberwolves.com), plays from October to April, while the women’s team, MinnesotaLynx (tel: (612) 673 8400; website: www.wnba.com/lynx), plays from May to August. The Minnesota Wild (tel: (651) 222 9453; website: www.wild.com) NHL ice hockey team plays at the Xcel Energy Center, 175 W Kellogg Boulevard, St Paul (tel: (651) 265 4800; website: www.xcelenergycenter.com), from October to April. The soccer team, Minnesota Thunder (tel: (763) 785 3668; website: www.mnthunder.com), plays in Blaine, Minnesota, from April to September. Locals enthusiastically support a number of professional sports teams based in the city, which offer year-round entertainment. Visitors should contact the individual venues or sports organisations for seasons, schedules and ticket information. Ticket agencies for sporting events include TicketMaster (tel: (651) 989 5151; website: www.ticketmaster.com) and Ticket Exchange (tel: (800) 800 9811; website: www.openseats.com). Fishing: Fishing is allowed in many of the parks. Those over 16 years old must be in possession of a fishing licence (tel: (651) 296 4506). Fitness centres: Firm, 245 Aldrich Avenue North, Minneapolis (tel: (612) 377 3003/7), and The Sweatshop Fitness Training Center, 171 Snelling Avenue North, St Paul (tel: (651) 646 8418; website: www.sweatshopfitness.com), are two busy studios with gym facilities and daily fitness classes. Day visitors are welcome. Golf: Baker National Golf Course, 2935 Parkview Drive, Medina (tel: (763) 473 0800), has an 18-hole championship course and a nine-hole executive course and is a certified Audubon Co-operative Sanctuary, with wildlife management. Edinburgh USA, 8700 Edinbrook Crossing, Brooklyn Park (tel: (763) 315 8550; website: www.edinburghusa.org), is a luxurious facility designed by Robert Trent Jones, with many challenging water and sand hazards. Theodore Wirth Golf Club, 1301 North Wirth Parkway, Golden Valley (tel: (763) 522 4584), is located in a city park, amid hills and offers beautiful views. Green fees range from US$17 for city courses to US$44 for more upmarket courses, such as Edinburgh USA. Membership is not required. Tennis: Nicollet Tennis Center, 4005 Nicollet Avenue South, Minneapolis (tel: (612) 825 6844; e-mail: info@nicollettennis.com; website: www.nicollettennis.com), has 11 indoor courts and a number of facilities that are open to the public. Players must reserve courts in advance and these cost US$16.50 per court per hour. Shopping The Twin Cities are a shopper’s paradise. They are home to America’s first (Southdale) and to its largest shopping mall (Mall of America). Best of all, there is no sales tax on clothing. Tax on other goods is 7% and some shops that cater for tourists will not charge tax if goods are shipped out of the state. Global Refund (tel: (845) 348 7673 or (800) 566 9829; fax: (845) 348 1549; e-mail: taxfree@us.globalrefund.com; website: www.globalrefund.com) can provide further information on claiming a tax refund on items purchased in the USA. Shop opening hours are generally Monday to Friday 0800-2100 or 0900-2200, Saturday 0930-1800 and Sunday 1200-1700. Nicollet Mall is a pedestrian thoroughfare covering a 12-block stretch of Nicollet Avenue in Downtown Minneapolis. There are more than 400 retail outlets in this area – including the flagship Dayton’s department store – many of which are connected by the city’s famous skyways. Also located here is Gaviidae Common – an upmarket shopping complex with department stores Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as designer boutiques – and other complexes, such as the IDS Center Crystal Court. From May to September there are farmers’ markets on Thursdays and Saturdays on the Nicollet Mall, with fruit and vegetables, flowers, clothing and crafts. There is also a farmer’s market in St Paul, at 290 East Fifth Street, on Saturdays and Sundays between May and November. The Uptown area south of Downtown around Hennepin Avenue and Lake Street contains more than 200 stores, primarily trendy, one-off shops such as those at Calhoun Square selling import and gift items, fashions, arts and crafts and jewellery. Town Square and the World Trade Center are two shopping centres in Downtown St Paul. Grand Avenue between Fairview Avenue and Dale Street also contains attractive one-of-a-kind shops. Shopping malls abound. Southdale Mall in Edina opened in 1956, as the world’s first enclosed shopping mall. Adjacent this is the more upmarket Galleria shopping centre. The ‘Dales’ also include Ridgedale in the west, Brookdale in the northwest and Rosedale in the north. The mother of them all, however, is the Mall of America, the country’s largest shopping and entertainment complex, with more than 400 stores, theatres, cinemas and an indoor theme park with rides. It is located in the southern suburb of Bloomington. Culture The combination of a flourishing economy and its European heritage, as well as a location on a river, which constantly brings in newcomers with new and exciting influences, probably accounts for much of the Twin Cities’ cultural wealth. Toward the end of the 19th century, many Scandinavian and German immigrants arrived in the area and traces of that north European heritage remain today, in the people’s surnames, the lilting Minnesota accent and small cultural festivals and institutions, such as the American Swedish Institute in Minneapolis. From world-famous theatre and orchestra performances to intimate poetry readings, the Twin Cities have a plethora of arts and cultural entertainment. There are more than 30 theatres and nearly 100 theatre companies in the metropolitan area, presenting a range of cultural entertainment from serious dramas and Broadway productions to cabarets, farcical ballets, avant-garde performances and children’s theatre. Nationally, the area is second only to New York City in the number of theatre seats per capita and the amount spent on tickets for these. There are also 20 classical music groups and ten dance groups based here. Arts and entertainment listings appear in the Minneapolis Star Tribune, the St Paul Pioneer Press and the weekly free tabloid, City Pages. Ticket agencies include TicketMaster (tel: (651) 989 5151; website: www.ticketmaster.com) and Ticket Exchange (tel: (800) 800 9811; website: www.openseats.com). Music: The Twin Cities boast two world-class orchestras. The Minnesota Orchestra (website: www.minnesotaorchestra.org) performs at Orchestra Hall, 111 Nicollet Mall (tel: (612) 371 5656 or (800) 292 4141), while the St Paul Chamber Orchestra (tel: (651) 292 3248 for information or (651) 291 1144 for tickets; website: www.thespco.com) performs at Ordway, 345 Washington Street, Downtown St Paul (tel: (651) 224 4222). The Lincoln Center Jazz Orchestra (website: www.jazzatlincolncenter.org) and other leading jazz artists perform at Northrup Auditorium, 84 Church Street SE (tel: (612) 624 2345). The Minnesota Opera (website: www.mnopera.org) performs classics with a contemporary twist at the Ordway Theatre. During the summer, live classical music is performed under the stars at the Lake Harriet Bandshell, south Minneapolis. Theatre: The Tony award-winning Guthrie Theatre, 725 Vineland Place, Minneapolis (tel: (612) 377 2224; website: www.guthrietheater.org), is the jewel of the Twin Cities, presenting critically acclaimed contemporary productions that draw a national audience. The Ordway Center for the Performing Arts, 345 Washington Street, Downtown St Paul (tel: (651) 282 3000 for information or (651) 224 4222 for tickets; website: www.ordway.org), presents top Broadway hits and innovative multicultural performances. Two restored classic theatres, the Orpheum Theatre, 910 Hennepin (tel: (612) 339 7007; website: www.state-orpheum.com), and the Historic State Theatre, 805 Hennepin (tel: (612) 339 7007; website: www.state-orpheum.com), in Downtown Minneapolis’ Hennepin Avenue Theatre District, often serve as the debut venues for large Broadway productions. Off-Broadway musical comedies are presented at the Hey City Theater, 824 Hennepin Avenue (tel: (612) 673 0404; website: www.heycity.com). Another favourite for top comedies and dramas is the Theatre in the Round, 245 Cedar Avenue (tel: (612) 333 2919). The Old Log Theater, 5158 Meadville Street (tel: (952) 474 5951; website: www.oldlog.com), set in a rustic stable in Excelsior, opened in 1940 and is the oldest running theatre in the country. With three auditoriums, Chanhassen Dinner Theatre, 501 West 78th Street (tel: (952) 934 1525 or (800) 362 3515; website: www.chanhassentheatres.com), is the nation’s largest professional dinner theatre. The Children’s Theatre Company, 2400 Third Avenue South (tel: (612) 874 0500), is also a leading theatre group. Penumbra Theatre, 270 North Kent Street, St Paul (tel: (651) 224 4601; website: www.penumbratheatre.org), is one of only three professional African-American theatres in the country. Dance: The Ballet Arts Minnesota (website: www.balletartsminnesota.org) presents traditional and contemporary works at Northrup Auditorium, 84 Church Street SE (tel: (612) 624 2345), and O’Shaughnessy Auditorium, College of St Catherine, University of St Thomas (tel: (651) 690 6700). During the holiday season, the Minnesota Dance Theatre and School (tel: (612) 338 0627; website: www.mndance.org) presents the Nutcracker Fantasy at the Orpheum Theatre, 910 Hennepin (tel: (612) 339 7007; website: www.state-orpheum.com). Other top dance groups include Minnesota Dance Alliance (tel: (612) 340 1900) and Ethnic Dance Theatre (tel: (612) 870 8831; website: www.ethnicdancetheatre.com). Film: Minneapolis’ Uptown Theater, 2906 Hennepin Avenue (tel: (612) 825 6006), shows artistic and alternative films, rolling out the red carpet for film premieres. The University Film Society (tel: (612) 627 4431 or (612) 627 4430; website: www.ufilm.org) screens international cinema and independent films in the Bell Auditorium, 17th Avenue and University Avenue Southeast, on the University of Minnesota campus. State-of-the-art mainstream cinemas are located in the Mall of America. More than 57 feature films have been shot in the Twin Cities in the past decade. The most famous is probably the Coen brothers’ Fargo (1996), followed by Purple Rain (1984), starring Prince. Others include Grumpy Old Men (1993), starring Walter Matthau and Jack Lemon, and more recently Drop Dead Gorgeous (1999) with Kirstie Alley. Cultural events: A Taste of Minnesota takes place on the grounds of the State Capitol in St Paul, over the 4 July holiday weekend, with live bands, food booths and fireworks. In August, Lake Street and Hennepin Avenue, Minneapolis, is host to the Uptown Art Fair, the largest art show in the region, with over 500 artists. Autumn brings the European Oktoberfest in the Old St Anthony district of Minneapolis, with ethnic food, bands and folk dancing. The St Paul Winter Carnival is the country’s oldest winter festival, featuring concerts and ice and snow sculpting in January and February. In April, the Festival of Nations in St Paul is a multi-ethnic event, with food, music and folk dancing. Literary Notes The Falls of Minnehaha feature in Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s famous poem, ‘The Song of Hiawatha’ (1855), while Minneapolis and St Paul are described by Mark Twain in Life on the Mississippi (1883). The author, F Scott Fitzgerald, was born in St Paul and penned his first novel, This Side of Paradise (1920), here. The Beautiful and the Damned (1922) and the story, Winter Dreams (1926), followed. Playwright August Wilson, whose works include Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom (1984), also once lived in St Paul. Another famous Minnesota writer was Sinclair Lewis, who used his home state as a setting for his novels, Main Street (1920) and Babbitt (1922). The Twin Cities’ most famous contemporary writer is arguably St Paul resident Garrison Keillor, creator of the long-running popular public radio programme, A Prairie Home Companion, and author of Lake Wobegon Days (1985) and Leaving Home (1988). Nightlife Minneapolis and St Paul enjoy a lively nightlife scene, with plenty of live music. The Twin Cities are on the touring circuit for many big-name bands and solo artists and several local musicians have risen to fame, most notably The Artist Formerly Known as Prince. Blues and jazz are particularly big here but everything from rock to reggae can be found most nights of the week and cover charges for music venues are often free or inexpensive. Downtown Minneapolis is a centre for nightlife, although popular bars and music clubs are located throughout the metropolitan area. The legal drinking age is 21 years old. Bars must stop serving alcohol at 0100 but are allowed to remain open until 0300. The average price of a drink while out and about in Minneapolis is between US$4 and US$8. Entertainment and nightlife listings appear in the Minneapolis Star Tribune, the St Paul Pioneer Press and the weekly free tabloid, City Pages. Bars: Sports bars with numerous TV monitors for watching sporting events are hot in the Twin Cities and some of the biggest and most popular include America’s Original Sports Bar, located in the Mall of America, Bloomington, and Champp’s, 100 North Sixth Street, Minneapolis, as well as six other locations. Another is Loon Café, 500 First Avenue North, Minneapolis, with large windows that are great for surveying the Downtown scene. Popular watering holes in Downtown Minneapolis’ Warehouse District include Rosen’s Bar and Grill, 430 First Avenue North, and Runyan’s, 107 Washington Avenue North. More upmarket Minneapolis watering holes include The Loring Bar, 1624 Harmon Place, overlooking Loring Park, The Lounge, 411 Second Avenue North, and City Billiards, 25 North Fourth Street, a smart billiards hall. Gluek’s Bar, 16 North Sixth Street, Minneapolis, and William’s Uptown Pub & Peanut Bar, 2911 Hennepin Avenue, are among the local favourites for knocking back a beer or two. Lucia’s Wine Bar, 1432 West 31st Street, is an intimate Uptown spot, with one of the best wine lists in the city. Casinos: Mystic Lake Casino and Hotel, 2400 Mystic Lake Boulevard, Prior Lake (website: www.mysticlake.com), is the closest casino to the Twin Cities, with 2800 slot machines, 100 blackjack tables and high stakes bingo. Treasure Island Resort & Casino, 5734 Sturgeon Lake Road, Red Wing (tel: (800) 867 7829), is situated approximately 35 minutes from the airport. They are both open daily 24 hours. There is no dress code but visitors must be 18 years of age and have a government-issued photo ID showing the date of birth, such as a passport or driving licence. Clubs: Tropix Beach Club, 400 Third Avenue North, Minneapolis, has a large dancefloor complete with a sea cruiser boat, while Gay 90s, 408 Hennepin Avenue, is a massive multi-room mixed and gay club, popular for its great house music, piano bar and drag shows. The Quest, 110 North Fifth Street, and South Beach, 325 First Avenue, dance clubs, both in Minneapolis’ Warehouse District, stay open until 0300, while Conga Latin Bistro, 501 Hennepin Avenue East, is a hotbed of Latin pop. Comedy: Knuckleheads, a large venue located at the Mall of America, hosts national comedy acts, as does the venerable Acme Comedy Company, 708 North First Street, Minneapolis, which also offers dinner packages. Brave New Workshop, 2605 Hennepin Avenue, Minneapolis (website: www.bravenewworkshop.com), is the country’s longest running satirical comedy theatre and also holds improvisation nights. Live music: Made famous in the film Purple Rain, First Avenue, 701 First Avenue, Minneapolis, is the city’s largest live music venue, booking top touring bands and artists. Another top venue, The Cabooze, 917 Cedar Avenue, Minneapolis, has a huge dancefloor and a nightly double bill of blues, rock and reggae artists. Bunkers, 716 North Washington Avenue, pulls in the crowds for live blues and R&B, while the 400 Club, 400 Cedar Avenue, at Cedar and Riverside, is a popular hangout near the university, showcasing local and national bands. The Dakota, 1021 East Bandana Boulevard, St Paul, is the leading jazz club in the Twin Cities, where local and national artists perform in a renovated railroad building. Hot on its heels is Jazzmines, 123 North Third Street, the latest spot for live jazz in the Warehouse District. An all-round favourite is Fine Line Music Café, 318 First Avenue North, Minnepolis, featuring blues, jazz, folk, rock and gospel music. Drop in to the Red Sea, 320 Cedar Avenue South, for world music from international musicians. City Statistics Location: Minnesota, central USA. Country dialling code: 1. Population: 382,618 (Minneapolis), 287,151 (St Paul); 2.9 million (Twin Cities metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: 84.7% white, 5.9% black, 4.6% Asian, 3.6% Hispanic, 0.8% Native American, 0.4% other. Religion: Majority Catholic or Protestant; minorities include the three largest Lutheran congregations in America. Time zone: GMT - 6 hours. Electricity: 110 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: - 12.5ºC (9.5ºF). Average July temp: 21.5ºC (71ºF). Annual rainfall: 660mm (26 inches). Annual snowfall: 1170mm (46 inches). Special Events St Paul Winter Carnival, parades, ice carvings, winter activities (website: www.winter-carnival.com), late Jan-early Feb, Downtown St Paul. St Patrick’s Day, parades and festivities (website: www.stpatsassoc.org), 17 Mar, throughout Minneapolis and St Paul. Minneapolis-St Paul International Film Festival (website: website: www.ufilm.org), Apr, Bell Auditorium and other venues Festival of Nations, multicultural celebration with food, dance and folk art demonstrations (website: www.festivalofnations.com), late Apr/early May, RiverCentre, St Paul. Heart of the Beast May Day Parade, giant puppets parade through the streets to Powderhorn Park (website: www.hobt.org), first Sun of May, Downtown Minneapolis. Juneteenth Celebration, celebration of black American culture (website: www.juneteenth.com), mid-Jun, Theodore Wirth Park. Minneapolis Aquatennial, water-themed summer festival (website: www.aquatennial.org), Jul, Downtown Minneapolis and other venues. A Taste of Minnesota, food and music festival (website: www.tasteofmn.org), 4 Jul weekend, State Capitol, St Paul. Uptown Art Fair (website: www.uptownminneapolis.com), early Aug, Lake Street and Hennepin Avenue. Minnesota State Fair (website: www.mnstatefair.org), Aug/Sep, Minnesota State Fairgrounds, St Paul. Minnesota Renaissance Festival, re-created 15th-century village, crafts, food, entertainment (website: www.renaissancefest.com), Aug-Sep, Shakopee European Oktoberfest, Sep-Oct, St Anthony Historic District, Minneapolis Twin Cities Marathon (website: www.twincitiesmarathon.org), early Oct, from the HHH Metrodome in Downtown, Minneapolis, to the State Capitol, St Paul Holidazzle parades, Nov-Dec, Nicollet Mall, Downtown Minneapolis Cost of Living Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$1.30 75cl bottle of beer: US$3.50 Wall Street Journal newspaper: US$1 36-exposure colour film: US$4.95 City-centre bus ticket: US$0.50-1.75 Adult American football ticket: US$15-90 Three-course meal with wine/beer: US$25-55 1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.63; C$1.51; A$1.67; €0.93 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.