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_City Overview Mumbai is a city of extreme contrasts, of great prosperity and abject poverty, of 21st-century technology and medieval squalor, epitomised by the destitute and crippled lying in rows beneath bright, electronic advertisements for dotcom companies. It boasts the finest collection of Victorian buildings anywhere in Asia and a myriad of temples and mosques. Yet 42% of its population live in slums – the highest percentage for any large Indian city. Mumbai is also congested with people – it has a population of approximately 15 million, which is rising relentlessly – its streets are clogged with traffic, its air is foully polluted by the barely controlled emissions of its factories and vehicles, and many of its buildings are slowly crumbling. However, the city still has much to offer. Mumbai is a colourful – the saris, the bazaars, the Indian sunlight – vibrant, energetic and friendly city, with a varied and fascinating history and many reasons to face the future with confidence. Once Bombay – the city was renamed after the Hindu goddess Mumbadevi in 1995, although both names are still widely used – Mumbai is a peninsular that juts out southwest from the Indian subcontinent into the Arabian Sea. It has a hot, humid climate, which is only partly relieved by the annual arrival of the monsoon, between June and September. Originally, Mumbai was a group of seven separate islands. Gradually the islands merged into a single peninsula as land was reclaimed from the sea, although some of the former islands still lend their names to parts of the modern city – Colaba, for example. Until the arrival of the Portuguese at Bombay in 1509 – they coined the original name, which is a corruption of the Portuguese for ‘good bay’ – the islands were home to the Koli fishermen and to a community of Buddhist monks. The Portuguese established a trading base and, for more than a century, dominated the region. In 1661, the Portuguese colony passed to Britainm, as part of the marriage settlement between Charles II and Catherine of Braganza. From then until 1858, Bombay was governed by the East India Company, whose raison d'être was trade and profit. In 1858, following the suppression of the Indian Mutiny, control of British India passed from the East India Company to the Crown, where it remained until Independence in August 1947. It was during this 90-year phase that the modern city took shape. The demolition of the old Bombay fort, in the 1860s, was the precursor to the redevelopment of the British city, or what is now the centre of the city – the area referred to as ‘Fort’. Similarly, the extensive 1920s and 30s land reclamation along Back Bay provided the space for the development of the Marine Drive area of the city, now one of the most important parts of Mumbai. From its earliest days as an important commercial centre, Mumbai today is the financial centre of India, home to the country’s largest stock exchange and the heart of its banking industry. It handles nearly a third of India’s foreign trade and is host to a large number of foreign multinationals. It is an important centre of the gem trade and film industry – Bollywood – is a national institution. For many visitors, the city is only a point of arrival, a springboard for the south or the architectural glories of the north. But to pass through Mumbai without tarrying a while is to miss one of the world’s great cities, as worthwhile and idiosyncratic as any on earth. Getting There By Air Mumbai (Chhatrapati Shivaji) International Airport (BOM) Tel: (022) 836 6700 or 838 7046. Fax: (022) 615 6031. Website: www.mumbaiairport.com Mumbai International Airport is located 30km (19 miles) north of the city centre at Sahar and is a major gateway for India, handling 37% of the country’s international passenger traffic, more than any other airport in India. Mumbai handles flights from 37 airlines, which fly to the major cities in Asia, the Far and Middle East, some destinations in Europe – such as London and Paris – as well as New York and Chicago. Major airlines: Air India (tel: (022) 202 4142; website: www.airindia.com) is the national carrier. Other international airlines that serve Mumbai include Air France, British Airways, Cathay Pacific and Gulf Air. Airport facilities: At terminals 1A and 1B, services include hotel reservation counters, bureaux de change and an ATM, first aid and medical facilities, tourist information, car hire (Europcar and Avis), shopping and bars. At 1B there is also a childcare room. There is a free coach transfer service between terminals. Business facilities: Both terminals have executive lounges, a conference room and a business centre. Terminal 1B also has a telecommunications centre. Transport to the city: Taxis are readily available at the airport and the fare to central or southern Mumbai should be Rs400-500 (journey time – 90 minutes, longer during the working day). There are also several prepaid 24-hour taxi services available in the arrival hall (tel: (022) 821 5585 or 820 5110). To central Mumbai rates for a prepaid taxi are approximately Rs450 for an ordinary vehicle and Rs550 for an air-conditioned one – Rs650 and Rs750 respectively after midnight. There may be additional charges for baggage. There are also public transport buses from the airport, however, taxis are the most reliable, easy and comfortable way for visitors to get to the city centre. Mumbai Domestic Airport Tel: (022) 615 6600. Website: www.mumbaiairport.com The domestic airport is 26km (16 miles) north of the city centre, at Santa Cruz. It provides connections to 39 cities in India. Six million passengers use the airport every year, representing some 25% of total domestic air travel. Major airlines: Air India (tel: (022) 202 4142; website: www.airindia.com) is the principal domestic carrier, while extensive services are also provided by Jet Airways and Sahara Airlines. Airport facilities: Car hire (Europcar and Avis), tourist information and bars are available. Business facilities: There is a business centre available. Transport to the city: Taxis are readily available at the domestic airport. Journey times and fares to the central and southern parts of the city are roughly the same as for the international airport. Approximate flight times to Mumbai: From London is 9 hours; from New York is 16 hours; from Los Angeles is 21 hours and 30 minutes; from Sydney is 12 hours and 45 minutes; from Toronto is 16 hours; from Tokyo 12 hours and from Singapore 8 hours 30 minutes. Within India, from Delhi is 2 hours; from Bangalore is 1 hour 30 minutes, from Chennai (Madras) is 1 hour 50 minutes and from Calcutta 2 hours 20 minutes. Arrival/departure tax: £10.90 (approximately Rs710) departure tax is included in the price of tickets purchased in the UK. Getting There By Water Sea: The Port of Mumbai (website: www.mumbaiporttrust.com) is located in the in the south of the city. The harbour handles approximately one sixth of India's total sea-borne trade, with three docks in operation – the Indira, Prince's and Victoria Docks – with passengers berths at Ferry Wharf and Gateway of India. The port authority is the Mumbai Port Trust (tel: (081) 118 1047; fax: (022) 261 1011; e-mail: mbpt@vsnl.com; website: www.mumbaiporttrust.com). Ferry Services: Ferry ships depart from the Ferry Wharf, near the Prince's Dock, as well as the Gateway of India. There is a ferry route between Gateway of India and Mandwa – costing Rs5 per passenger for peak hour (0900-1130 and 1700-2000) and Rs2.50 for non peak-hour service – as well as services to the Elephanta Caves (see Excursions) and a Hovercraft service to Vashi, Navi Mumbai (0915, 1000, 1200,1530, 1730 and 1800). Boats from Ferry Wharf sail to Alibhag, Rewas and Mandwa. Frank Shipping Services (tel: (022) 373 5562/64/70/49/90 or 373 1893; fax: (022) 373 3740) operates an overnight catamaran service from Ferry Wharf to Panaji, Goa (Tuesday and Thursday 2230), costing Rs1400 (one way). Most ferry services do not operate during the monsoon season. SKS Supercrafts (tel: (022) 782 1736) operates services and provides further information. Transport to the city The Port of Mumbai operates is own railway, running between Ballard Pier and Wadala. This is linked to the Central and Western Railways at the Interchange Railway Yard at Wadala. Getting There By Road Driving in India can be extremely hazardous and is not recommended to tourists, especially considering that there is no speed limit for drivers of passenger cars – motorcycles, taxis, trucks and buses are constrained to a certain velocity, depending on the vehicle type. The surfaces are often in poor condition, adherence to any rules there may be is patchy and accidents are numerous. Mumbai is an important junction on the National Highway network of India, which links it to all major towns and cities in the country. National Highways are numbered. Traffic drives on the left. Drivers must be over 18 years and foreigners require an International Driving Permit. The legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.03%. Those intending to take their own car to India must obtain a carnet from one of the international motoring associations (such as RAC or AA) before entering the country. This document represents an undertaking that the car will not remain in India for more than six months. Most European motor insurance policies do not extend to India and motorists are advised to seek cover from an Indian insurer, as insurance is compulsory. The Federation of Indian Automobile Associations (tel: (022) 204 1085) provides information. Emergency breakdown service: There are no providers. Routes to the city: National Highways 3, 4, 6, 8, 9 and 17 provide connecting routes between Mumbai and the rest of India. In particular, route 3 goes to Indore and Gwalior, 4 to Pune, and 8 to Ahmedabad and Delhi. Visitors should bear in mind that the distances in India are colossal. Pune is the nearest city, 170km (111 miles) away. Delhi, however, is 1460km (913 miles) and Calcutta 2836 km (1773 miles) away. Flying is usually preferable to driving. Driving times to Mumbai: From Pune – 3 hours. Coach services: The Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation (tel: (022) 369 6109/10 or 368 5910/6112; fax: (022) 368 4943; e-mail: info@msrdc.org; website: www.msrdc.org) operates bus services from Mumbai to other towns and cities within the same and adjoining states. Destinations include Ahmedabad, Bangalore, Goa, Indore, Pune and Surat. The main terminal is located opposite Central Station, on Belalsis Road (tel: (022) 307 4272). Getting There By Rail Mumbai is very well served by its railways, both for suburban and national routes. Western Railway (tel: (022) 308 5555) and Central Railway (tel: (022) 265 9512) are the two companies that operate rail services from Mumbai. A computerised enquiry system for arrivals and departure information is available (tel: (022) 265 6565). During the rush hour (0700-1100 and 1600-2100), trains are extremely crowded and best avoided. Western Railway services depart from Mumbai Central Station, Boman Behram Road, while Central Railway services depart from the magnificent CST building (formerly Victoria Terminus), on Dr D Navroji Road, at corner of St George’s Road. Both stations offer basic facilities. Rail services: Central Railway operates 1077 services per day, while Western Railway handles 922 services, carrying approximately 2.8 million and 2.6 million passengers per day respectively. Destinations include Central Railway services to Lucknow (journey time – 26 hours), Hyderabad (journey time – 15 hours), Nagpur (journey time – 14 hours) and Pune (journey time – 3 hours 25 minutes) and Western Railway services to Jaipur (journey time – 17 hours 30 minutes), Delhi (journey time – 17 hours) and Ahmedabad (journey time – 7 hours). Transport to the city: Both stations are centrally located and taxis are readily available. Getting Around Public Transport There is no underground system in Mumbai but the city is well served by its suburban rail network (see Getting There By Rail). There is also a large number of bus routes run by Brihanmumbai Electric Supply and Transport – BEST (tel: (022) 414 3611, for 24-hour enquiries; website: www.bestundertaking.com), which provides transport within the city and suburbs. The buses are extremely cheap – the average city-centre fare is Rs8 – but it is difficult to determine where the buses go, since the route maps (available at newspaper stands) are virtually indecipherable. They are often very crowded and seats hard to come by. Some routes (Bus 1, 65, 66 and 202) operate a round-the-clock service. A small minority of the buses are fitted with air conditioning (tel: (022) 873 2888 for enquiries on air-conditioned buses). Tickets are best purchased from the conductor and although confessional fares are offered, no passes are currently available. Taxis Mumbai has a huge number of delightfully dated taxis – in a black and yellow livery – plying for trade on the streets. For the foreign visitor, they represent the best way of getting around the city, especially as auto-rickshaws – a staple form of urban travel elsewhere in India – are banned from the centre of Mumbai. Taxis can be hailed on the street and drivers are reasonably knowledgeable of the geography of the city. All taxis have a meter – these are, however, out of date, so each driver carries a conversion table, with which to compute the correct fare. It is important to ensure that the meter is zeroed before starting the journey. Fares are inexpensive – a journey in the centre of the city will rarely cost more than Rs100. Taxis can also be hired for the day. This is a good way for tourists to see the city and it should not cost more than Rs1000 for a full day. For those who prefer a higher degree of luxury, Cool Cabs (tel: (022) 824 6216) provides more modern, air-conditioned taxis, which can only be ordered by telephone. These are metered and charge a minimum fare of Rs150 – half a day costs Rs500 and full-day hire costs Rs1000. Tipping etiquette in Mumbai's taxis can be somewhat confusing for the tourist. Some drivers demand a tip quite openly, while others are content with the metered or negotiated fare. A 10% tip is generally acceptable. Limousines Autoriders Rent-a-car (tel: (022) 496 1714) provides chauffeur-driven cars and offers a wide range of air-conditioned vehicles. A mid-range car costs Rs1250 for four hours, with extra hours being charged at Rs100. Driving in the City Driving in Mumbai is not recommended to tourists. The streets are chaotic and poorly signposted. There is a huge amount of traffic and road users range from a man driving a single cow to vast trucks. There do not seem to be any rules – although red lights are respected – and the horn is the most commonly used aid to driving. The road surface in many streets is in a poor state of repair and large potholes are commonplace. Would-be drivers should be warned that many Indian motorists regard the use of lights at night as wholly optional and this potentially is very dangerous. Parking is a problem on Mumbai's streets and an increase in underground parking lots, around such areas as Shivaji Park, Nare Park and Oval Maidan, have been proposed to accommodate shopping, offices and parking plazas. Many hotels provide indoor parking for their patrons. Airport parking costs Rs20 per hour. Car Hire Drivers in India must be over 18 years, although many car hire companies will insist on a higher minimum age. To hire a car, drivers will need to present an International Driving Permit and insurance must be arranged at the time of hiring. Avis (tel: (022) 285 7518; website: www.avis.com) provides self-drive hire cars for Rs2600 per eight-hour day. Royal Cars (tel: (022) 283 2928; e-mail: royalcars@vsnl.com) supplies mid-range cars for Rs1400 per eight-hour day. Europcar (tel: (022) 645 2796; e-mail: europcarbom@ith.co.in; website: www.europcar.com) provides chauffeur-driven hire cars. Bicycle & Scooter Hire Scooters and bicycles are popular forms of transport on the crowded streets of Mumbai and there does not seem to be any requirement for cyclists to wear helmets. Scooters are available for short and long term buy back options on well maintained and reliable scooters, from Premjis, Lamington Road (tel: (022) 309 9313 or 2469 or 9417; fax: (022) 306 8844; e-mail: info@premjis.com; website: www.premjis.com). Rates on buy back scooters range from Rs2000 to Rs4000 per week, depending on the vehicle and the duration of the trip. There are also various places, usually small, which hire bicycles cheaply and visitors keen to do so should enquire at a garage. Hire rates are usually around Rs50 per day. Business Business Profile Delhi is the political and administrative capital of India and Bangalore the centre of the important high-tech industry. However, Mumbai’s position as the country’s financial capital remains undisputed. The city is also an important centre for many other industries and for foreign trade. Mumbai’s position as the financial capital of India is based on the dominance of its two stock exchanges – the NSE and the smaller BSE – and the power of its banking sector. Together, the two stock exchanges tower above all the other local Indian exchanges, in terms of market capitalisation and turnover. Meanwhile the city’s commercial and retail banking centre is also the largest in India. The service sector attracts the lion’s share of Mumbai’s incoming foreign investment. Also pre-eminent as a trading centre, pearls and precious and semi-precious stones are by far the largest single category (by value) of both import and export goods handled by Mumbai. Of the other principal industries, the cotton and textile business and machine engineering are probably the most important. Between them, these two sectors employ a third of the workforce of the city and account for a sixth of the export trade. Perhaps the industry that Mumbai is most famous for, however, is Bollywood, which churns out about half of the 800 or so films made each year in India – Hollywood, by comparison, produces about 250 films a year. Reliable statistics are hard to come by, as the industry is notoriously shadowy – the majority of Indian films are financed through the black economy – and is not officially recognised. Best estimates suggest that the Indian film industry turns over the equivalent of £135 million a year. The importance of her corporate and trading activities to Mumbai is illustrated by the fact that excise tax in 1999-2000 brought in Rs6877 million and customs duty another Rs7607 million, whereas income tax raised only Rs4718 million in the same period. The average income per household in Mumbai is higher than in any other great Indian city. In Mumbai, 30% of households enjoy an annual income of between Rs36,000 and Rs60,000 – the equivalent figure for Delhi is 26% and for Calcutta 25%. Unemployment is extremely difficult to calculate. In 1996, there were 710,000 people officially registered as unemployed, which would work out as at least 21%. However, this does not include the many unregistered unemployed people and the figure is very likely to have increased steadily over the last seven years. The unemployment rate in India for 1999-2000 is set at between 2.23% and 7.32%. Most of the important financial institutions are located in the Fort area of the city, near the BSE building and the striking modern tower of the Reserve Bank of India. Well-known multinational industrial companies that are based in Mumbai include Hindustan Lever, Castrol, Glaxo, Proctor & Gamble and Cadbury. Most international banks have at least some form of representation in the city. Business Etiquette For the visiting foreign businessperson, the principal advantage is that English – now well established as the international language of business – is the lingua franca. This is despite, or perhaps because of, the large number of languages that are spoken in India – there are 18 official ones and some 1600 minor ones. Indeed, English is so widely spoken that most meetings will be conducted in this language and any lapse into a local tongue should perhaps raise a visitor’s suspicion that the speaker is not to be trusted. The business card is an important part of business life in India. Some people carry cards that are in effect a compressed CV and many are bilingual. A suit is considered the proper form of business dress in India. Business hours are generally 0930/1000 to 1700/1730. Business entertaining is an integral part of Indian corporate life and potentially fraught with difficulty for the uninitiated. Foreign visitors should remember that Indians only eat with the right hand, although the left may be used to hold a plate or utensil. An invitation to an Indian home for dinner will be for 2030 to 2130, although many of the guests will not arrive until much later and dinner may not be served until after 2300. However, once dinner is over the party is at an end and the guest may depart without giving offence. Drinking, especially at lunchtime, should be avoided until visitors are certain of the host’s opinion on the subject. Even then, alcohol should always be consumed in moderation. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Mumbai’s main areas of interest are located on the more southerly parts of the peninsula, where the European settlers established their enclave and where the various local communities took root. The centre of Imperial Bombay is the area known as Fort, after the fortifications that protected the British settlement. Starting in the 1860s, the Governors of Bombay embarked on an ambitious programme of building development, a process that continued under official and private patronage well into the 20th century. As a result, Mumbai boasts a stunning array of High Victorian buildings in a fascinating range of architectural styles, which reflect the then prevailing British passion for the Gothic as well as the influence of Indian and Saracenic styles. The result is a breathtaking affirmation of the wealth, panache and confidence of Imperial Bombay. There are a large number of examples for the visitor to look at but Mumbai University, Standard Chartered Bank Building and Municipal Corporation Building give a flavour of what can be expected. At the same time as the sahibs were building their modern Imperial monuments in the Fort, the local communities were expanding rapidly to the north. This part of the city is every bit as characteristic of the modern city as the Fort is – some would say more so. Its narrow, twisting streets and raucous bazaars, all noise, activity and thronging with people, are a complete contrast to the spacious, tree-lined boulevards of the more southerly areas. Superimposed on these two distinctly different parts of Mumbai is the modern city – the 1930s developments along Marine Drive and on Cumbala Hill, the modern office blocks to the west of the Maidans and the tower blocks that line the southern end of Back Bay. Further north, up the peninsula, are the suburbs of Mumbai and it is here that the worst of the shanty towns and slums are located. These are, sadly, as much part of modern Mumbai as the more glamorous areas to the south. The poverty, squalor and degradation is truly shocking. Mumbai was a city built on toleration – prosperity was considered more important than religious homogeneity – and this is reflected in the number and range of places of worship that can be found in the city. The Anglican cathedral, Catholic church and Scottish kirk in Mumbai rub shoulders with countless Hindu temples, many mosques and other Parsee and Buddhist temples. Together, they form a rich and varied heritage. Most attractions are fairly central and can be reached on foot. For those that cannot, visitors tend to take taxis, as they are relatively cheap and infinitely more convenient than public transport. For this reason, there are no transport details for the attractions. Tourist Information Government of India Tourist Office (GITO) 123 Mararishi Karve Road, Churchgate Tel: (022) 203 3144/5 or 207 4333. Fax: (022) 201 4496. E-mail: gitobest@bom5.vsnl.net.in Website: www.indiatouristoffice.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1800, Sat 0830-1400. There also are offices at the international and the domestic airport. Many of the individual States of India have their own tourist office in Mumbai. The GITO provides contact details. Passes There are currently no tourist passes available in Mumbai. Key Attractions Gateway of India Built by the British to commemorate King George V and Queen Mary's visit to India in 1911, the Gateway of India stands as a monument to the importance of Mumbai as a port when the steamship was king. Designed by George Wittet, it replaced the temporary structure that the architect had erected for the Imperial visit itself and was completed in 1917. The archway is built from honey-coloured basalt, in a style derived from Gujarati architecture of the 16th century. For many in the age of steam, the Gateway and the nearby Taj Hotel were their first and their last sights of India. Nowadays it attracts a colourful crowd of tourists, hawkers and beggars. Apollo Bunder seafront. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST), formerly Victoria Terminus Now the headquarters of the Central Railway, this magnificent terminus building, commonly known as CST, was completed in 1888, for the Great Indian Peninsular Railway, to designs by the architect FW Stevens. It is one of the world’s grandest railway stations, quite the equal of New York’s Grand Central Station or London’s St Pancras station. Built in the Italian Gothic style, it looks more like a cathedral than a railway station, an impression strengthened by the tall dome crowned with a statue representing ‘Progress’. In the public parts of the station, the Victorian arches soar splendidly above the hurrying throng but its real glory is the main staircase. Sadly, this is in a part of the building to which the public is generally denied access but a polite request to the stationmaster on the main concourse may result in permission being granted to visit the restricted areas. It is certainly worth the effort. Dr D Navroji Road, Fort Tel: (022) 265 9512. Opening hours: Daily early morning to late evening. Admission: Free. St Thomas’s Cathedral St Thomas’s is the Anglican cathedral of Mumbai and, having been founded in 1676, bears witness to almost the entire history of the British in Bombay. The main structure was not completed, due to lack of funds, until 1718. The tower and clock were added in 1838, while the chancel was built in 1863. The main interest for the visitor is in the splendid array of marble monuments that line the aisles of the cathedral, which give an immediate, anecdotal flavour of life and death in British Bombay. Many of them catch the eye but look out for the memorial to Captain George Hardinge RN, who was killed in a naval engagement in 1808. Hardinge, in naval uniform, is being borne away on a huge seashell pulled by two fiery seahorses, while below is a relief of the action in which he was killed. 3 Veer Nariman, Fort Opening hours: Daily 0730-1800. Admission: Free; donations appreciated. Town Hall An impressive neo-classical structure overlooking Horniman Circle, the Town Hall was built between 1821 and 1833, to designs by Colonel Thomas Cowper. It originally stood on Bombay Green, which was the centre of the Fort area, and is one of the few remnants – along with the Mint Building – of pre-Victorian Bombay. It is now used as a public library. Horniman Circle, Fort Tel: (022) 266 0956. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1030-1815. Admission: Free. Jehangir Art Gallery The premier exhibition space in Mumbai for contemporary Indian art, the Jehangir Art Gallery was founded by Sir Cowasji Jehangir, in memory of his son. It boasts two large galleries, which frequently stage changing exhibitions. The gallery is currently celebrating its 50th anniversary with a programme of special events. Mahatma Gandhi Road, Fort Tel: (022) 284 3989. Opening hours: Daily 1100-1900. Admission: Free; some exhibitions may charge. Shrine of Haji Ali Commemorating a Muslim saint who died while on pilgrimage to Mecca, the Shrine of Haji Ali rises out of the sea off Mumbai, sparkling in the bright sunshine like an priceless jewel. The shrine, which is topped by an elegant tower, is connected to the mainland by a causeway – thronging with beggars – and is only accessible at low tide. Off Lala Lajpa Trai Murg Opening hours: Daily 0500-2200, subject to tides. Admission: Free. Balbulnath Temple Perched on the northeastern end of Malabar Hill, overlooking Chowpatty Beach, a visit to Balbulnath Temple necessitates a steep climb. Nevertheless the effort is amply rewarded by the elaborate terrace and the splendid carving, picked out in blue, which adorns the pillared hall. Near junction of Walkeshwar and Marine Drive Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk. Admission: Free; donations welcome. Mumbadevi Temple The shady and ornate first-floor balcony overlooking the noisy, chaotic square in the middle of the Bhuleshwar Market is part of the Mumbadevi Temple. The interior of the temple – in complete contrast to the bustle outside – is serenely calm, cool and dark. The temple is on three floors set around a central atrium that ascends to a dome. The carving that decorates the interior is ornate but never surrenders to fussiness. Next door, two other Hindu temples are similarly worth visiting. Bhuleshwar Market Opening hours: Daily 0630-2130. Admission: Free. Prince of Wales Museum Set in beautiful lush gardens, the Prince of Wales Museum is one of the landmarks of southern Mumbai. The museum is housed in a grand and somewhat exotic building, designed by George Wittet in 1909, in the Indo-Saracenic style. The collections include ancient and medieval sculpture, Indian decorative arts and a large number of beautiful miniatures. 159-161 Mahatma Gandhi Road, Fort Tel: (022) 284 4484. Fax: (22) 204 5430. E-mail: powm@vsnl.com Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1015-1745. Admission: Rs300; concessions available. Victoria and Albert Museum Housed in a purpose-built 19th-century Palladian villa, the Victoria and Albert Museum’s collections are of mixed interest and quality and are generally badly displayed and poorly lit. There are some fine carvings in both wood and ivory, some interesting antique Indian weapons and a fascinating display of photographs of old Bombay. The real reason tourists should visit the museum is to walk in the extensive formal gardens surrounding the villa, which also accommodate a zoo. Other highlights of the gardens are the elaborate Italian Renaissance-style gateway and the equestrian statue of Edward VII as Prince of Wales. Dr. B Ambedkar Road, Byculla Tel: (022) 372 5799. Fax: (022) 375 9821. Opening hours: Thurs-Tues 0900-1800 (July-Jan); Thurs-Tues 0900-1830 (Feb-Jun). Admission: Rs2 (museum); Rs4 (gardens and zoo). Horniman Circle Laid out in 1869, on the site of the old Bombay Green and originally called Elphinstone Circle, Horniman Circle is the epicentre of the Fort area. The Circle consists of James Scott’s elegantly curved, arcade terraces with a garden in the middle. It was the first significant piece of the city's redevelopment, which began under the Governorship of Sir Bartle Frere in the 1860s. The gardens in the middle of the Circle, which are open to the public, are a lush and shady retreat from the glare and bustle of the streets, a good place to break a morning’s sightseeing. Following Independence, the Circle was renamed Horniman Circle, after an English journalist, Benjamin Horniman, who was an ardent proponent of the cause of Indian self-determination. Horniman Circle, Fort Opening hours: Sun-Fri 1000-2030, Sat 1600-2030. Admission: Free. Further Distractions Afghan Church Located at Colaba, the southernmost part of Mumbai, the Afghan Church was built to commemorate the officers and men who died in the Afghan and Sind campaigns of 1838-43. The church, finished by 1858, is an essay in early Victorian Gothic revival and, unlike many of the buildings that sprang up in the city in later years, it has no trace of a local accent – it is a little piece of England in India. The church is in urgent need of restoration. St John’s Church, Colaba Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk; the verger who lives next to the church will open the door if it is locked. Admission: Free; donations welcome. Dhobi Ghat (Washing Place) Dhobi Ghat could not be further removed in spirit from the manicured lawns of the Mahalaxmi Racecourse, although it is only a few hundred yards away. This is where much of Mumbai’s laundry is done – by hand in concrete sinks and dried by the sun – as it has been for generations. A dhobiwallah is someone who does the laundry. Dr E Moses Road, Mahalaxmi Opening hours: Dawn to dusk. Admission: Free. Marine Drive and Chowpatty Beach Built in the 1920s and 30s, on land reclaimed from the sea, Marine Drive is Mumbai’s most famous thoroughfare. Lined with crumbling Art Deco buildings, it runs down Back Bay from Malabar Hill to Nariman Point and offers far-reaching views of the western side of the city. In the evening, it is a popular promenade, frequently providing strollers with spectacular sunsets over the sea. At the top end of Marine Drive is Chowpatty Beach. The only beach in the central part of Mumbai, it is a popular and lively place to spend an afternoon. Malabar Hill to Nariman Point Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. Maidans Running up the western side of the Fort area, the Maidans are a long strip of palm-fringed green in the middle of Mumbai. Before the land under Marine Drive was reclaimed they formed the seaside esplanade of Bombay. Nowadays, they serve as the lungs of the city, where Mumbaikers can stroll, play cricket and football or simply laze in the shade. From the Oval Maidan there is a fine view of the Gothic mass of the Law Courts and, towering high above the fringe of palm trees, the University Library Clocktower. Fort area, Marine Drive Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. Malabar Hill and the Hanging Gardens Jutting out into the sea from the north end of Marine Drive, Malabar Hill offers splendid views of Mumbai and has a character of its own. Leafier and greener than the city centre, it repays exploration. The hill used to be one of the most desirable residential areas of Mumbai and, to this day, the state governor’s official residence is at the end of the point. On the top of the hill are the Hanging Gardens, laid out in the formal style. Marine Drive Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. Tours of the City Walking Tours The Bombay Heritage Walks Society (tel: (022) 834 4622 for schedule details; e-mail: heritagewalks@hotmail.com), run by two Mumbai architects, organises a series of English-language guided walks around various interesting parts of the city. The walks are conducted once a month, on a Sunday evening, on the basis of a printed schedule – departure points vary. The tour lasts 60-90 minutes and costs Rs50, with discounts available for students and the disabled. The local press is the easiest way of finding out the schedule and itinerary. Those interested must register by e-mail with the Society at least three days in advance. The society also organises specially designed walks for interested heritage enthusiasts. Bus Tours The Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation – MTDC (tel: (022) 202 7762) runs evening open deck bus tours of the city at 1900 and 2030 on Saturday, Sunday and Bank Holidays. These last about 90 minutes. For a seat on the upper deck, the tours cost Rs70 and, on the lower deck, Rs20. All tours depart from the MTDC building at Nariman Point on Marine Drive. Boat Tours From the Gateway of India on Apollo Bunder, there is a harbour cruise – the boat sails around the outer reaches of the harbour, passing close to the naval fort. The cruises last about 40 minutes and cost Rs30 a head. They run from about 0900 to about 1700. From the jetty, at the southern end of Chowpatty Beach, one can take a night cruise of Back Bay. It is worth making this trip for the view of the city, all lit up, from the water. The cruises start at sunset and continue until 2300. They last about an hour and cost Rs200 a head. Tours are generally run by a number of informal outlets. SKS Supercrafts (tel: (022) 782 1736) provides further information. Excursions For a Half Day Elephanta Caves: Located on an island in Mumbai harbour, the Elephanta Caves is a complex of temples hewn from the rock, usually dated to between AD450 and 750. The temples are adorned with intricate sculptures of Hindu gods. Boats depart every 30 minutes 0900-1430, Tuesday-Sunday, from the Gateway of India. The last departure from Elephanta is at 1730. Tickets cost Rs85 return and can be bought at the Gateway of India. The journey takes approximately an hour in each direction. The GITO (tel: (022) 203 3144/5 or 207 4333) provides information on the Elephanta Caves. For a Whole Day Sanjay Gandhi National Park: Located about 40km (25 miles) from the centre of Mumbai, the Sanjay Gandhi National Park (tel: (022) 886 0362/89) is a haven of peace away from the noise of the city. The visitor can spend an enjoyable day picnicking or simply meandering around the park – there is an outdoor film set, a Jain temple and three lakes – but the principal attraction is the Kanheri Caves. There are 101 numbered caves in the Kanheri complex – a working Buddhist monastery – ranging from full temples to simple living quarters. The earliest caves may have been excavated in the first century and the latest date from the 11th century. The nearest station is Boravali (on Western Railway) and there are taxis available at the station. The park is open Tuesday-Sunday 0730-1830 and entrance costs Rs4. Marve and Manori beaches: Located about 50km (31 miles) northwest of the centre of Mumbai, these beaches offer beautiful unspoilt stretches of sand, which are much cleaner than the more famous beach at Juhu. At Marve, there is also an old Portuguese church and fishing village. For Marve, trains go to Malad station (Western Railway), from there it is a short taxi ride or bus 272. For Manori, the ferry goes across Manori Creek from Marve. Sport In India, cricket is king and Mumbai thinks of itself as the capital of Indian cricket. Many legendary cricketers have hailed from the city, including Sachin Tendulkar, national icon and high priest of Indian batsmen. Indians are obsessed with the game and the national side has a large and devoted following. The game is played everywhere, on proper cricket grounds, in back yards and streets alike. Test Matches are played at the Wankhede Stadium, behind Marine Drive (tel: (022) 281 2723), during the international season, which runs from November to April. Cricket can also be watched on the Maidan grounds or on any of the gymkhana grounds along Marine Drive. For visitors who are interested in the history of the game, a visit to the Cricket Club of India at the Brabourne Stadium, Dinshaw Wachha Road (tel: (022) 287 6051/2/3), adjacent to the Wankhede, Marine Drive, is worthwhile. It has an elegant 1930s Art-Deco-style pavilion and, until 1974, Test Matches were played there. Tickets to sporting events are available from the venues. Fitness centres: There are a number of fitness centres and gyms in Mumbai, including Body Art, Modi Lodge, Hughes Road (tel: (22) 380 2602) and Figure Shapers, 'Surf' Pali Mala Road, Bandra (tel: (22) 6051029). Golf: Visitors may play at the Bombay Presidency Golf Club, Dr C Gidwani Road, Chembur (tel: (22) 550 5874; fax: (22) 550 5880). The club has an 18-hole course (closed Monday) and charges green fees of Rs1200 at weekends and holidays, Rs1000 at other times. Horseracing: The racing season at Mahalaxmi Racecourse, Lala Lajpatrai Road, in Mahalaxmi (tel: (022) 307 1401), runs from November to April and the highlight is the Indian Derby in February, a notable social occasion as well as India’s richest and most significant race. The elegant stands provide first-class viewing of the racing on the flat, square track; entrance prices range from Rs12 to Rs250. Even when racing is not taking place, the racecourse is a popular place for people to visit (entrance is free), to walk, jog or simply take the fresh air. Riding can also be arranged. Swimming: The Breach Candy Club, 66 B Desai Road (tel: (022) 367 4381), looks out over the sea to the north of Malabar Hill. It has an enormous swimming pool in the shape of British India, as well as a clubhouse and tennis court. The club’s admission policy has been the subject of public controversy and the concession whereby visiting foreigners were admitted on production of a foreign passport has been abolished. Guests now have to be signed in by a member. Visitors keen on swimming can try the larger hotels, some of which allow visitors to use their swimming pools on payment of a charge. Tennis: The price of land in the centre of the city means that tennis courts are hard to come by. The best bet is for visitors to try the bigger luxury hotels in the suburbs. Shopping Mumbai is a shopper’s paradise. The shops and bazaars offer a truly amazing diversity of goods, as well as being worth a visit in their own right. Mumbai sells everything from expensive European antiques to local spices by way of electrical goods and silks. In particular, it is the centre of the Indian clothing trade and caters for all tastes and budgets. ‘Fashion Street’, on M Gandhi Road between Cross Maidan and Azad Maidan, is a row of market stalls where some very good bargains can be found. At the other end of the spectrum, Mumbai is also home to a number of tailors who will make clothes quickly at a reasonable cost. For the more adventurous shopper, there is a large amount of Indian furniture for sale in Mumbai, both at dealers and in the bazaars. Caveat emptor is very much the rule and the age or worth of purchases cannot be guaranteed – visitors should trust to luck and their eye, haggle fiercely and hope to be rewarded with an exceptional bargain. Likewise, Mumbai is a major centre of the diamond trade and for those with strong nerves and long pockets, who know what they are doing, it is possible to pick great bargains. For inexpensive yet attractive wooden and other presents, the Central Cottage Industries Emporium, Shivaji Marg, between Apollo Bunder and Regal, is open Monday-Saturday 1000-1900. For those who like to shop in comfort, the Oberoi and Taj Hotels both boast air-conditioned shopping malls with an interesting range of boutiques. No trip to Mumbai is complete, however, without a visit to the bazaars – Chow Bazaar, Mutton Street, near Sir JJ Road, for bric-a-brac, furniture and junk, Zaveri Bazaar, off Abdul Rahman Street, for jewellery, Dhaboo Street Bazaar, Dhaboo Street, for leather goods and Crawford Market, Dr D Navroji Road/Carnac Road, for fruit and vegetables. Markets are generally open from 0900-1900. In most shops and bazaars, bargaining is the norm, particularly for more expensive items. For shoppers of a more literary bent, there are a number of open-air second-hand bookstalls on the streets near the university, around Chowk Fountain, where a persistent search may reveal interesting volumes among the pulp thrillers. Generally, shops do not open until 1000 or 1030 but tend to remain open until about 1900. Sales tax varies between 4-15%. Culture Culturally, Mumbai is probably best known for its film industry, nicknamed Bollywood. Cinema in India is very popular and the city is responsible for the majority of the Hindi-language films that are made in the country. The Mumbai International Film Festival is now in its seventh year and is firmly established as a major event in the cinematic calendar. It is staged at various venues across the city during the month of February. While cinema is popular – there is said to be in excess of 100 million paying cinemagoers a week nationwide – theatre, music and dance also have long traditions in Mumbai and remain important cultural activities. Mumbai is also home to a large number of public and commercial art galleries – the leading public ones being the Jehangir Gallery (see Key Attractions) and the National Gallery of Modern Art, both of which put on regular exhibitions of contemporary Indian art. Tickets to cultural events are available for purchase at the venue. Explocity (website: www.explocity.com), the fortnightly listings publication available from news stands, is an excellent source of information for cultural events. Theatre, dance and music: The most important venue for the performing arts in Mumbai is the National Centre for Performing Arts, Nariman Point (tel: (022) 283 3737; e-mail: ncpa@giasbm01.vsnl.net.in; website: www.tata.com/ncpa). This complex of five theatres of varying sizes puts a widely varying programme of plays, musicals and dance. Normally, there will be something on that is well worth seeing. Important, too, is the Nehru Centre Auditorium, Dr Annie Besant Road, Worli (tel: (022) 496 4680; website: www.nehrucentremumbai.com), where there is an auditorium, as part of a modern complex that includes art galleries, exhibition halls and a planetarium. During the year, it stages theatre, dance and music. It also runs workshops for educational purposes. For plays in English and programmes of Western music, Sophia Bhabha Hall, B Desai Road at Breach Candy (tel: (022) 367 8550), is a good venue. Film: The centre of Bollywood is Film City, at Goregoan (tel: (022) 840 1755; e-mail: filmcity@hotmail.com), where the majority of the film studios are located. It is possible to arrange visits to some of the studios. The bulk of films made in Bollywood are sugary love stories or action dramas – the aim of the industry is to produce the entertainment and escapism that its audiences demand. The industry is now gaining more international recognition, as the success of Monsoon Wedding (2001) and Asoka (2001) in Britain shows. Mumbai has many cinemas, the best known one being the Art Deco Regal cinema, Apollo Pier Road, Colaba (tel: (022) 202 9271 or 1017), itself a Mumbai landmark. Many cinemas, particularly those in the city centre, regularly show English-language films. Cultural events: India, with its many religions, has a multitude of religious festivals. The two most important in Mumbai are both Hindu. Ganesh is the god of wisdom and prosperity and his festival, which falls in August/September, is celebrated with particular enthusiasm in Mumbai. Its climax is colourful and noisy and involves many tens of thousands of people converging on Chowpatty Beach to immerse themselves and their images of the elephant-like Ganesh into the sea. It is an unforgettable experience. Deepavali falls in October/November and is a joyous occasion, a celebration of happiness and friendship, marked in Mumbai with an ear-splitting cacophony of bangers and fireworks. Literary Notes Those who wish to immerse themselves in the spirit of Mumbai need look no further than Salman Rushdie’s Midnight’s Children (1981). A dextrously handled cocktail of history, fiction and imaginative fantasy, the novel is partly set in Mumbai and provides a wonderful evocation of the city’s geography, atmosphere and history in the years following Independence in 1947. ‘What I can see: the city basking like a bloodsucker lizard in the summer heat. Our Bombay: it looks like a hand but really it’s a mouth, always open, always hungry, swallowing food and talent from everywhere else in India. A glamorous leech, producing nothing except films bush-shirts fish...’ It is an affectionate portrait celebrating the ‘highly-spiced nonconformity of Bombay’. A different view of the city emerges from Anita Desai’s novel, Baumgartner’s Bombay (1988), which conjures up the crumbling fabric of the city, its humidity and pollution. Mumbai is home to a number of contemporary poets, including Arun Kolatkar. Nissin Ezkiel is often regarded as the founding father of modern poetry in the city. From the 1950s onwards, he did much to encourage young poets in their work. It remains as difficult here as anywhere else, however, to find companies who are prepared to publish poetry. In the field of fiction, Mumbai novelist Kiran Nagarkar has recently published Cuckold (1998). Nightlife The party animal will not be disappointed by Mumbai. The city reckons itself to be the capital of Indian nightlife. Certainly, the bars and clubs offer enough variety to satisfy even the most jaded palate. The passion for the English-style pub is being challenged by the chic bar-restaurant formula – in recent months a large number of such establishments have opened, offering the city’s wealthier inhabitants a dazzling choice of places in which to spend their money. Many of the best bars are located in Colaba and along Marine Drive. The prevailing atmosphere is informal – a jacket and tie is almost never required – but Mumbaikers like to be well turned-out and the atmosphere of some establishments is decidedly chic. Many bars and clubs operate a couples-only policy, for members and non-members alike, and charge an entrance fee. The most popular drinks are beer and spirits – particularly whisky – rather than imported wine, which is relatively expensive and often of indifferent quality, although Indian wine is now better made and more widely available than ever before. Drink prices vary considerably depending on the venue – a bottle of beer in a humble bar costs around Rs100, while in an expensive bar or hotel bar the price will more likely be in the region of Rs150-200. Licensing hours are 1130-2330 and the legal minimum drinking age is 21 years. Five-star hotels have an extension to enable them to sell alcohol until 2430 and many of the larger international hotels have a nightclub on the premises as well. Explocity is published fortnightly and is available from news stands. This excellent listings publication on many, if not all, aspects of having fun in Mumbai, also appears online (website: www.explocity.com). Bars: Indigo, Mandlik Road, Apollo Bunder, was the original Mumbai bar-restaurant and, despite having spawned numerous imitators, its minimalist decor still attracts a smartly turned-out set. Next door, Busaba, Mandlik Road, is a popular bar-cum-nightclub attached to a southeast Asian restaurant. Three Flights Up, in the Gordon House Hotel, Battery Street, Apollo Bunder, combines ultra-modern, almost space age decor with the longest bar in the city. Geoffrey’s, in the Hotel Marine Plaza (itself a fine example of Art Deco architecture well worth visiting), is the best-known English-style pub in Mumbai. Geoffrey’s stays open until 0100, serving a good set-price lunch. The latest hip bar in Mumbai is Suzie Wong, located on a boat in the middle of Back Bay. It is open until 0400 and is reached by motor dinghy from the jetty at the south end of Chowpatty Beach– the fare is Rs150 a head. Sitting and sipping, while propped up on cushions upon the deck and looking at the city lights over the water is an unforgettable experience. The Olive Bar and Kitchen, 14 Union Park, in the fashionable northern suburb of Bandra, is a trendy bar and restaurant, which serves food until 0200. Casinos: There are no casinos in Mumbai, as gambling is illegal in India – except on the racecourse. Clubs: Head Quarters, opposite the Regal Cinema, Colaba, runs a ladies’ night on Wednesday. This club is very popular with the younger crowd and admission is free. Fire and Ice, Phoenix Mills Compound, Senapati Bapat Road, Lower Parel, with its mezzanine dancefloor and dazzling light show, has retained its appeal. The hottest new club in town, however, is Insomnia, located in the Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder. It is a warren of bars and sitting-out areas with a huge basement dancefloor but has become a private members club. If you can find someone to take you there, jump at the chance. Of the other nightclubs in the international hotels, the Library, in the Taj President, 90 Cuffe Parade, boasts a lively bar and live music with free entry, while Three Flights Up, Gordon House Hotel, Battery Street, Apollo Bunder, reinvents itself as a nightclub later in the evening. Live music: Jazz by the Bay, Soona Mahal, Marine Drive, is a good place for live music in the middle of the city. City Statistics Location: Maharashtra State, India. Country dialling code: 91. Population: 14.8 million (Greater Mumbai). Ethnic Mix: Majority Indo-Aryan and Dravidian. Religion: 68% Hindu, 17% Muslim, 6% Buddhist, 4% Christian, 4% Jain, 1% Sikh and other. Time zone: GMT + 51/2. Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two- or three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: 24.5°C (76°F). Average July temp: 28.5°C (83°F). Average annual rainfall: 2160mm (85 inches) Jun-Sep. Special Events Holi, Hindu festival, 18 Mar 2003, throughout the city Ganesh, Hindu festival, Aug-Sep, Chowpatty Beach Navrati, Hindu festival, early Oct, throughout the city Deepavali (Festival of Light), Hindu celebration of happiness and friendship, early Nov, throughout the city Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: Rs15 33cl bottle of beer: Rs25 Financial Times newspaper: Rs75 36-exposure colour film: Rs95 City-centre bus ticket: Rs5-10 Adult Test Match cricket ticket: Rs100-300 Three-course meal with beer/wine: Rs65 0-850 1 Rupee (Rs) = £0.01; US$0.02; C$0.03; A$0.03; €0.02 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.