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_City Overview Nashville is the self-styled Music City USA – with Dolly Parton, the Grand Ole Opry, Robert Altman’s Oscar-winning movie Nashville (1975) and the Country Music Hall of Fame. It may then come as a surprise to the first-time visitor to find a modern American city of stylishly designed skyscrapers and a healthy financial community embracing new commerce, publishing and other offshoots of the music industry. Although, of course, reflected in these skyscrapers are the bars where Hank Williams drank and where country singers still perform, in the hope of becoming the next Willie Nelson or Loretta Lynn. Almost slap in the centre of Tennessee, Nashville is the booming city of the upper South. Its population is rapidly expanding as it attracts citizens from the surrounding states – such as Kentucky and Alabama, and even from New York and Los Angeles – to work in the music and wider entertainment business. The city has long attracted singers, of course, ever since the Grand Ole Opry started its weekly radio broadcast in 1925. Only established to rival Chicago’s ‘National Barn Dance’ radio show, it was so popular that it certainly isn’t Chicago that springs to mind when we think of America’s ‘Country Capital’. The city’s roots go back a long way. It was first home to bison and deer, which attracted the hunters who settled here – as archaeological finds have proven. In the late 18th century, the first non-Indians arrived, in the form of a few French fur trappers and traders, one of who was the famous Daniel Boone. Soon after, migrants from the Appalachians began to settle and provided the beginnings of a sizeable community until, in 1835, Nashville became the state capital. Today, Downtown Nashville, where most of the best hotels and the nightlife are concentrated, is an area of only about eight blocks square. It is a mix of chic hotels, businesses and honky-tonks, where Nashvillians work and where tourists wander around looking for the authentic country experience. Music Row, which is actually the business heart of the country industry, is in midtown Nashville, southwest of Downtown. Out of the city, to the northeast, is the vast Opryland complex, from where the Grand Ole Opry is now broadcast and where country music museums and the Opryland Hotel all cluster. The bulk of visitors choose to visit Nashville in the spring and autumn, wisely avoiding July and August, which can be hot and humid. Winter months are quite mild, with occasional snow flurries, although December to March are best avoided, as driving rain and wind can occur. June brings fans and stars together for the International Country Music Fan Fair. It is during an event such as this that Nashville most provides that which visitors come to see. People expect to see men in ten-gallon hats walking down the streets with guitars slung across their back and to meet country singers in Downtown bookstores and bars – and that is just what they get. Other industries, such as new media, the healthcare services and the many venture capital companies, may well be hugely financially important – the major healthcare companies generate ten times as much revenue as the entire tourist industry – but they are much less visible. Without the country music, who would know the name of Nashville? Much of the boom in the boomtown comes from ancillary music industries, such as publishing, management, TV and recording studios. So as long as country music survives, then Nashville surely will thrive. Getting There By Air Nashville International Airport (BNA) Tel: (615) 275 1600. Website: www.nashintl.com Nashville International Airport is located 13km (eight miles) southeast of central Nashville. The airport has no direct international flights (except to Canada) but is a domestic hub, with around eight million passengers annually using the airport and over 400 flights per day. Major airlines: National airline American Airlines (tel: (800) 433 7300 or 223 5436; website: www.aa.com) operate out of Nashville International Airport. Other carriers include Continental Airlines, Corporate Airlines, Delta Air Lines, Northwest/KLM, Southwest Airlines, TWA, United Airlines and US Airways. Approximate flight times to Nashville: From London is 11 hours; from New York is 2 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 4 hours 15 minutes; from Toronto is 2 hours and from Sydney is 22 hours. Airport facilities: These include ATMs, bureau de change, bank, restaurants, cafés, shops, post boxes, lockers, a massage bar and a children’s play area. Car hire is available from all major agencies including Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National and Thrifty. Business facilities: The Wright Travel Business Center (tel: (615) 275 2660) provides photocopiers, faxes and PC workstations. There is also a fully equipped conference room for hire. Other services include a travel agent, courier, translation, mobile phone and other equipment hire. Arrival/departure tax: Taxes, ranging from about US$22 for domestic flights up to US$78 for long-haul flights (depending on the destination), are included in the price of the ticket. Transport to the city: Most hotels near the airport have their own shuttle buses. Hotels Downtown, in Vanderbilt and on Music Row, use the Gray Line Express (tel: (615) 275 1180 or 883 5555). This operates daily 0600-2300, every 15 minutes from the airport or every 30 minutes from each hotel. The fare is US$11 one way or US$17 return (journey time – 15 minutes or 25 minutes in rush hour). Alternatively, the Metropolitan Transit Authority – MTA (tel: (615) 862 5950) runs both express and local bus services to Downtown Nashville, 0625-2255 Monday-Friday and 0630-1600 Saturday and Sunday (journey time – 15 minutes or 25 minutes in rush hour). One-way fares are US$4 (express) and US$1.45 (local). Exact change required. Taxis are available outside the terminal and a fare into central Nashville should cost US$15-20. Getting There By Road The USA has a network of Interstates – designated by the letter ‘I’ on a blue sign – and highways – designated by ‘HWY’ on a black and white sign – with a corresponding number, as in I440 or I65. Driving in the United States is on the right. The roads in and around Nashville are generally good, although there are plenty of back roads in Tennessee that are not always smooth rides. The speed limit on interstates and freeways is 105kph (65mph), while most other highways have a speed limit of 89kph (55mph). In the city, the speed limit varies between 40-72kph (25-45mph). Drink-driving regulations are strictly enforced and the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.10%. For UK nationals, a full UK driving licence is sufficient to drive in the USA. Other nationalities are required to have an International Driving Permit, accompanied by a full driving licence from their home country. In Tennessee, the minimum age for driving is 16 years. Tennessee is one of the few states in the USA that does not require cars to be insured. This is obviously not recommended, however. Visitors are encouraged to seek insurance, as expenses incurred through accidents, particularly medical expenses, are very high. Seatbelts are compulsory for the driver and all passengers. Children under the age of five years must sit in the rear in an approved child safety harness. The American Automobile Association (tel: (800) 222 1333) provides information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries. Emergency breakdown service: AAA (800) AAA HELP or 222 4357 Routes to the city: Main routes from Nashville are Highway 40 east to Knoxville and the Appalachian Mountains and west to Memphis. Highway 65 runs north towards Louisville and south to Birmingham. Highway 24 runs southeast to Chattanooga and northwest to Paducah. Driving times to the city: From Chattanooga– 2 hours 30 minutes; Louisville – 3 hours 30 minutes; Knoxville – 3 hours 30 minutes; Memphis – 4 hours. Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (615) 255 3556 or (800) 231 2222; website: www.greyhound.com) operates national bus services out of their terminal at 200 Eighth Avenue South. Facilities at the terminal are basic. Regular nation-wide services include eight departures per day to Memphis and nine to New Orleans. Getting There By Rail Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) operates the national railway network, however, this does not stop at Nashville and there are no railway stations. The nearest passenger station is in Memphis. Getting Around Public Transport Downtown Nashville is quite small and easily managed on foot. The Metropolitan Transit Authority – MTA (tel: (615) 862 5950; website: www.nashvillemta.org) operates bus and trolley services in Nashville. Each bus route operates different hours but these usually start at approximately 0530 and run until 2400 on weekdays, after which time a night but service for central Nashville comes into operation, departing from Central Landport from 0015. The Music Valley Express (bus 34), links Downtown with Opryland/Music Valley (a one-way fare is US$1.75). Once there, the Music Valley Trolley shuttles along Music Drive. The MTA also operates a network of local bus services – fares costs US$0.25 for Downtown or US$1.45 for further afield. Tickets are purchased upon boarding or at the ticket booths on Deaderik at Fifth Avenue and 1011 Demonbreun. A Weekly Pass and a Monthly Flash Pass are available from the ticket booths for US$14.70 and US$48 respectively. The Nashville Trolley Co (tel: (615) 862 5950) operates three trolley routes. The Lunch Line is routed on a loop through the central business district, from Second Broadway to Union and Sixth Avenue. It is a free service, leaving every seven to eight minutes between 1130-1330. The Frist Arts Trolley leaves the Frist Arts Center, 919 Broadway, on a two-hour round trip that takes in tourist hot spots such as the Vanderbilt Arts Center, Centennial Park, the Parthenon and Belle Meade Mansion. It costs US$1 and there are only two departures – one at midday, the other at 1400. The 34x Music Valley Express Bus operates approximately every 40 minutes, daily 0815-1815, to the Downtown and Music Valley Drive. The fare is US$1.75. Taxis There are several taxi services in Nashville but it is far easier to book one by telephone than to find one on the street. If the booking has been made some time ahead, it is sensible for travellers to telephone again on the day to confirm. Main firms include Allied Cab (tel: (615) 244 7433), American Rivergate Cab Co (tel: (615) 865 4100), Music City Taxi (tel: (615) 262 0451) and Yellow Cab (tel: (615) 256 0101). Rates start at US$2 and go up by US$1.75 per mile. A tip of 10% is expected. Limousines There are numerous limousine companies serving the Nashville area, including stretch limousines for up to ten passengers. Rates start at about US$60 per hour on weekdays and rise to US$65 at weekends. Companies include Black Tie Limousines (tel: (615) 254 1254), Capital Limousines Inc (tel: (615) 883 6777), Carey of Nashville (tel: (615) 360 8700) and Country Music Limousine (tel: (615) 226 9692). Driving in the City Nashville’s roads have not really kept pace with the town’s expansion and it is a long-standing joke that Nashville is difficult to navigate. There is just enough of a Downtown grid system to lull drivers into a false sense of security but then some streets simply stop, others change their names and some veer off across the river and head for Opryland. Most streets Downtown are one way and signposting is poor. Other than this idiosyncrasy, driving is no better or worse than any other small American city, although rush hours (0700-0900 and 1600-1800) are best avoided. Right turns on red lights are legal, unless a sign says otherwise. Many of the special parking meter lanes in the city centre are inactive during rush hours – cars left there during these periods will be towed away. There is a large 24-hour public car park Downtown, at the junction of First Street South and Broadway, at a cost of US$1 per hour. There are several other parking lots, municipal and private, in that area. Car Hire Service providers include Alamo (tel: (615) 367 1919), Avis (tel: (615) 361 1212), Budget (tel: (615) 366 0800), Enterprise (tel: (615) 872 7722), National (tel: (615) 361 7467) and Thrifty (tel: (615) 275 4257 or 361 6050). To hire a car, visitors must have a full driving licence from their home country, be at least 25 years old and have a major credit card for payment. Rates start from US$39.99 per day, for a medium-sized vehicle. Car hire prices will not include insurance and various levels of insurance are usually available as surcharges. Unlimited mileage is also recommended, if excursions are planned for outside the city. Bicycle Hire Cycling is not unheard-of in Nashville and some local commuters travel to work this way. However, this is fairly uncommon. It is even less common to see visitors risking the Downtown traffic. Most attractions can be reached on foot or by the Nashville Trolley. Nevertheless, there are five state bicycle tours in the hills around Nashville, with details available from the Tennessee Department of Transportation (tel: (615) 741 2848). However, it is very difficult to hire bicycles in Nashville. The best way for visitors to find out about bicycle hire is to get in touch with the tourist office. Business Business Profile After a period of positive growth in the healthcare and music publishing industries, the US economy slowdown has hit Nashville and the impact of the attack on the World Trade Center swiftly impacted the city’s economy. Unemployment rose to 3.2% in the Nashville region. Nevertheless, this is still lower than Tennessee at 4.6% and the national average of 5.4%. The service industry and manufacturing have been badly affected in the state of Tennessee, with 3400 and 1500 jobs cut in those sectors respectively. It is likely, however, that Nashville’s main industries will not disappear overnight, as the city has become a centre for healthcare companies – Nashville’s Columbia/HCA is the largest healthcare firm of its kind in the country. Healthtrust and Equicorp are also based here. In all, there are 14 healthcare companies within the city, generating annual combined revenue of some US$22billion. In addition, there are a further 12 investment and venture capital companies that deal primarily with healthcare. On the back of this success, biotech companies – one of the few industries to benefit from the attacks on the US – are looking at Nashville as a good place to invest. This rather puts the music industry revenue of Music City USA – estimated at just over US$3.2billion annually – in the shade. However, the music industry has a much wider reach, as that income is spread across 200 recording studios, while the industry provides work for almost 6000 union-registered musicians. It is estimated that about 25,000 people in Nashville work directly in the entertainment business. The music industry also embraces ancillary industries, such as publishing, the new media and broadcasting. Companies such as Gaylord Entertainment – who run the Grand Ole Opry, the Opryland Hotel, Country Music Television International, the renowned Acuff-Rose Music Publishing and several other related business operations – have a finger in every pie. It may be low income compared to healthcare but it is high profile. Everyone has heard of Nashville, because of its music industry. This obviously attracts an enormous number of visitors to the city – tourism revenue is currently running at US$2.2billion per annum. However, within a week of the attacks on the World Trade Center, the tourism industry was hit to the tune of US$5million. Another area of development is new technology. Dell Computers recently chose Nashville as their first expansion in the USA outside their home state of Texas. Dell is building a manufacturing centre and a technical support centre, estimated to provide at least 3000 new jobs over the next five years. The main business districts are located in Downtown Nashville – private business and government offices – and the West End, around Vanderbilt University – financial and music businesses. Other music businesses are, of course, located around Music Row. Business Etiquette In a city used to seeing entertainment industry folk dressed down, the Nashville approach tends to be more casual than elsewhere in the USA. Some meetings will be conducted in jeans, although it is important for business visitors to gauge the situation correctly, as the city’s financial and healthcare executives can be as formal as their musical counterparts are informal. Few restaurants or clubs require a jacket and tie and casual-smart will suit most places. Business cards should always be exchanged – only at the end of a meeting. More formal colleagues will prefer a business lunch to dinner, while in the entertainment industry, a social drink after work, followed by some music, would not be out of the ordinary. Southern hospitality may often lead to an invitation to a host’s home – an invitation sincerely meant and one that should be gratefully accepted. Southern states tend to be more conservative than the north, so visitors should limit themselves to moderate social drinking until they know their hosts. Bad language tends to be frowned upon, although again, the music business has its own rules. Courtesies are all-important and ‘sir’ and ‘ma’am’ will be frequently heard. If a host appears to be unduly formal, it is very likely due to the courteous Southern upbringing. Southerners tend to stick together too and side with fellow Southerners, so visitors should avoid talking about politics until they know whom they are dealing with. Business hours are generally 0900-1700 Monday to Friday, although the entertainment businesses usually start and finish later. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview There is more than enough to see in Nashville to warrant a stay of several days, perhaps splitting the time between Downtown Nashville and the Opryland area, northeast of the city centre. Add in the surrounding rural attractions and a few more days can be spent profitably. A car is essential for rural pursuits, although central Nashville can be easily explored on foot and with the tourist transport options. The bright and well-stocked Visitor Information Center is a good place to start, right on Broadway. Trolleys pass here, heading for Music Row, where the Country Music Hall of Fame was originally located. It has relocated to new Downtown premises in May 2001. Across Broadway and half a block up Fifth Avenue is the Ryman Auditorium, a place of pilgrimage for country music fans. Further on along Sixth Avenue is the Tennessee Performing Art Centre, State Museum and State Capitol. Transport, private or public, is needed to get to Opryland (see the Excursions section), home of the Grand Ole Opry and a cluster of country music museums. Here too is the Opryland Hotel, an attraction in its own right, with indoor gardens that even include an indoor lake. Nashville was never known for its understatement and this is no exception. Tourist Information Visitor Information Center Gaylord Entertainment Centre, 501 Broadway, corner of Fifth Avenue Tel: (615) 259 4747 or (800) 657 6910. E-mail: nashcvb@musiccityusa.com Website: www.nashvillecvb.com Opening hours: Daily 0830-1730 (winter); daily 0830-2000 (summer). Passes Nashville Convention and Visitors Bureau offer a variety of passes allowing discounted entry to Nashville tourist attractions. The Pick 3 pass costs US$18 and offers free entry to three of nine smaller participating attractions, while the Take 2 pass costs US$39.50 and offers free entry to two of ten participating attractions. The two tickets can be combined – at a cost of US$54.99. There is also the Parent Pass and the Kids on the House pass. All are available from the Visitor Information Center. Key Attractions Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum The new Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum opened its doors in May 2001, following its re-location from Music Row to its impressive new home in the heart of Nashville’s Downtown entertainment district. Spanning an entire city block and soaring 33m (107ft) above a lush urban park, the new US$37million facility features over 40,000 square feet of exhibition space. The self-guided tour takes the visitor on a chronological journey through the history of country music, from its ‘back porch’ beginnings, through the heyday of the Grand Ole Opry and right up to the present. This fascinating tour takes around three hours, features over one million items of memorabilia – from Elvis Presley’s Gold Cadillac to Patsy Cline’s cowboy boots – and is accompanied by archive recordings from radio, television and many of the country music’s most important recorded works, as well as numerous interactive features. The Country Music Hall of Fame is home to the largest country music archive in the world and the museum’s archivists and restoration experts can be viewed at work through the glass walls of their hi-tech studios. An enormous two-story wall displays every gold and platinum record ever to make the country charts. There is daily live music in the atrium, in the form of live CMT (Country Music Television) broadcasts. The museum also boasts the Ford Theater, a 214-seat state-of-the-art performance venue featuring a digital film presentation on country music from around the world. The 1676sq-metre (5500sq-ft) museum shop offers one of Nashville’s best selections of vintage and current country music CDs, tapes, books, videos, collectibles and apparel. A full-service restaurant features contemporary Southern cuisine and is open for lunch. Fifth Avenue and Demonbreun Street Tel: (615) 416 2001 or (800) 852 6437. Website: www.countrymusichalloffame.org Transport: Nashville Trolley from Downtown. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800. Admission: US$14.95, concessions available. The Hermitage The home of Andrew Jackson – America’s seventh President – is Nashville’s national treasure, attracting 250,000 visitors every year. Jackson first bought the property in 1804 and some of the original log cabins still survive. Rather more grand is the Greek Revival mansion he built in 1837, which has been fully restored, containing almost all original period furnishings. The gardens are impressive too and there is a museum on the site, as well as a restaurant and gift shop. 4580 Rachel’s Lane, Hermitage Tel: (615) 889 2941. Website: www.thehermitage.com Transport: By car along Interstate 40, exit 221. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Admission: US$10, concessions available. Ryman Auditorium One of Downtown Nashville’s prime attractions is the original home of the Grand Ole Opry, which still puts on all kinds of musical shows in the evening. By day, visitors can tour the auditorium, stand on the stage and hear anecdotes from the tour guides about the country stars who played here. These include Hank Williams, Patsy Cline and even a young Elvis Presley, when he was still regarded as a country singer. Memorabilia is on display, with some stage outfits and guitars. Ryman was a riverboat captain who built the theatre in 1892, as a venue for religious meetings. 116 Fifth Avenue Tel: (615) 254 1445 or 889 3060. Website: www.ryman.com Transport: Nashville Trolley to Downtown. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1600; evening shows vary. Admission: US$8, concessions available. Cheekwood Known as Nashville’s ‘Home of Art and Gardens’ and now also the Museum of Art, after an US$18million restoration, Cheekwood covers a site of 22 hectares (55 acres). The three-storey Georgian-style Cheek Mansion was built in the 1930s, by Leslie and Mabel Cheek – Leslie Cheek being a successful local businessman. The art collection concentrates on local artists, such as the sculptor, Will Edmondson – the first African-American whose work was displayed at the Museum of Modern Art in New York, in 1937. American art and fine art of the 19th and 20th centuries are also covered. Other features include a Botanic Hall, Woodland Sculpture Trail, a restaurant and a gift shop. 1200 Forrest Park Drive Tel: (615) 356 8000. Website: www.cheekwood.org Transport: By car along Belle Meade Boulevard, Page Road and on to Forrest Park Drive. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0930-0430. Admission: US$10, concessions available. Tennessee State Museum This stimulating collection tells the story of the state, from prehistoric times through to the early 20th century. Special attention is paid to prominent characters, such as Andrew Jackson and Davy Crockett, as well as the Civil War. Historical arts and crafts items are also displayed and, in addition to the permanent collection, there are temporary exhibitions, for which there is usually a small admission charge. Polk Cultural Center, 505 Deaderick Street Tel: (615) 741 2692. Website: www.tnmuseum.org Transport: Nashville Trolley to Downtown. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1300-1600. Admission: Free. Tennessee State Capitol The Tennessee State Capitol was built in 1859 and many parts of it, including the library and the Supreme Court chamber, have been restored to their original grandeur. Portraits of local dignitaries gaze down from the walls, while statues of famous Tennesseeans, such as General Andrew Jackson and President James Polk, stand in the Capitol’s grounds. Charlotte Avenue, between Sixth and Seventh Avenues Tel: (615) 741 1621. Transport: Nashville Trolley to Downtown. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1600. Admission: Free. Belle Meade Plantation The Belle Meade Plantation – huge grounds known as ‘The Queen of Tennessee Plantations’ – contains one of the oldest houses in Tennessee – a log cabin from 1790. The star attraction, however, is the 1853 Greek Revival mansion, which has been lovingly restored to its original elegance. Other original outbuildings survive on the 12-hectare (30-acre) site, including the stables and an 1890 carriage house. Tours are given by guides dressed in period costume. There is also a visitor centre, tea room and gift shop. 5025 Harding Road Tel: (615) 356 0501. Fax: (615) 356 2336. E-mail: information@bellemeadeplantation.com Website: www.bellemeadeplantation.com Transport: MTA trolley bus 3 from Riverfront Park. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1100-1700. Admission: US$10, concessions available. Cumberland Science Museum This was formerly the Nashville Children’s Museum and it remains firmly aimed at younger visitors. There are numerous hands-on exhibits and daily displays on scientific subjects. A simulated flight over Nashville is one attraction. Touring exhibitions are also housed here. There are daily shows in the Planetarium too, including a live presentation explaining the ‘Skies over Nashville’. 800 Fort Negley Blvd Tel: (615) 862 5178. Website: www.csmisfun.com Transport: Nashville Trolley from Downtown. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1230-1730; planetarium shows 1100, 1300 and 1500. Admission: US$7.95, concessions available; extra US$1 for planetarium. Parthenon Over the years, Nashville has established itself as the one of the foremost seats of learning in the US, with its prominent university (Vanderbilt) and famous medical and film schools. Because of this, Nashville is sometimes referred to as ‘the Athens of the South.’ This replica of Greece’s most famous building was built in 1897, to house the international art exhibition for the Centennial Exposition in recognition of this achievement. West End and 25th Avenues, Centennial Park Tel: (615) 862 8431. Fax: (615) 880 2265. Website: www.parthenon.org E-mail: info@parthenon.org Transport: Nashville Trolley from Downtown. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1630, Sun 1230-1630 (Apr-Sep); Tues-Sat 0900-1630 (Oct-Mar). Admission: US$3.50, concessions available. Further Distractions Belmont Mansion This Italianate mansion was built in 1850, by Adelicia Acklen, who at the time, was one of the wealthiest women in America – thanks in part to her cotton-trading with both sides during the Civil War. There are 16 rooms that are open to the public, with guided tours showing the original furniture and artworks. The grounds, now part of Belmont University, also contain a gazebo and statuary. 1900 Belmont Boulevard Tel: (615) 460 5459. Fax: (615) 460 5688. E-mail: belmontmansion@mail.belmont.edu Website: www.belmontmansion.citysearch.com and www.belmontmansion.com Transport: Bus 2 from Landport Clement. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1600 (Sep-May); Mon-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1300-1600 (June-Aug). Admission: US$7, concessions available. Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park This large park covers an area of eight hectares (19 acres) to the north of the State Capitol. The grounds contain 31 fountains – corresponding to the main rivers of Tennessee – and a vast granite map of the state. The park also has walks, a Wall of History and good views, especially leading up to the Capitol itself. 598 James Robertson Parkway Tel: (615) 741 5280. Website: www.state.tn.us/environment/parks/bicenmal Transport: Nashville Trolley to Downtown. Opening hours: Daily dawn-midnight. Admission: Free. Frist Center for the Visual Arts The Frist Center for the Visual Arts is a non-profit art-exhibition centre in Downtown Nashville, with approximately 7315sq metres (24,000sq ft) of gallery space, dedicated to presenting the finest visual art from local, state and regional artists, as well as major US and international exhibitions. It is housed in a beautiful 1930s Art Deco building, which was originally Nashville’s historic main post office. The building was renovated in the late 1990s, with great care taken to preserve its interior period ornamental features. 919 Broadway Tel: (615) 244 3340. E-mail: info@fristcenter.org Website: www.fristcenter.org Transport: Bus 96 from Deaderick Street. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1730, Sun 1300-1700, Thurs 1000-2000. Admission: US$6.50, concessions available. Tours of the City Walking Tours The City Walk is a marked trail of two miles (three kilometres), which begins at Fort Nashborough and ends at the Hatch Show Print Shop on Broadway. Visitors should either follow the blue line or obtain a leaflet from the Visitor Information Center, Gaylord Entertainment Centre, 501 Broadway, corner of Fifth Avenue (tel: (615) 259 4747; website: www.nashvillecvb.com). Bus Tours Numerous companies offer bus tours of Nashville, invariably focusing on the country music scene and often including a drive past the homes of some of the stars, such as Dolly Parton and Johnny Cash. Grand Ole Opry Tours (tel: (615) 889 9490 or 883 2211; website: www.gaylordopryland.com/transtours.cfm) has the advantage of being able to include an exclusive backstage tour of the Grand Ole Opry building as well. The full bus tour lasts three hours and costs US$27.65, departing from Gaylord Opryland's Magnolia Canopy, 2800 Opryland Drive. Other companies include Gray Line Tours (tel: (615) 883 5555), Johnny WalkerTours (tel: (615) 834 8585) and the off-beat NashTrash Tours (tel: (615) 226 7300). Other Tours The Nashville Carriage Service (tel: (615) 758 8629) and the Second Avenue Carriage Service (tel: (615) 244 7113) provide horse-drawn carriage tours of historic Nashville. These start from the junction of Broadway and First Avenue and usually run after 1900 Monday-Saturday, at a cost of about US$25 for four people for 20 minutes. Excursions For a Half Day Opryland: This is one of Nashville’s major attractions but, as it is located about ten kilometres (six miles) from Downtown Nashville, the visitor will need to allow at least half a day to get there and see everything. Opryland is a collective term for the whole area, also known as Music Valley, which contains the Opryland Hotel and the Grand Ole Opry. Other attractions include the Music Valley Car Museum, the Music Valley Wax Museum, the Nashville Toy Museum and the Willie Nelson and Friends Showcase Museum. From Downtown, the area is easily accessed by the Music Valley Express (bus 34) and, once there, the Music Valley Trolley shuttles along Music Drive. The Music Valley Drive Information Center, Suite 100, 2416 Music Valley Drive (tel: (615) 871 4005 or (800) 847 9102) provides information on all the following attractions. The Grand Ole Opry (website: www.opry.com) is America’s longest continuously running radio show and celebrated its 75th anniversary in 2000. There are two shows a night on Fridays and Saturdays, for most of the year, as well as a Tuesday matinee mid-June to mid-August. These shows get booked up well in advance, so reservations should be made (tel: (615) 889 6611). There is also a Grand Ole Opry Museum, devoted to the stars from the shows. The Opryland Hotel Indoor Gardens and Collections has three huge glass-roofed atriums, which enclose magnificent gardens. The largest of these covers 1.8 hectares (4.5 acres) and contains a 400m-long (1320ft) river. At night, there is live music and a laser show. The Music Valley Car Museum has vehicles that belonged to Elvis Presley, Dolly Parton and other musical luminaries. The Music Valley Wax Museum contains over 50 waxworks of country music’s greatest stars, in their original stage costumes, as well as a Sidewalk of the Stars, with the feet, hands and signatures of the country music stars imprinted in the concrete. The Nashville Toy Museum concentrates on antique toys – mainly toy trains, with two huge model layouts. The Willie Nelson and Friends Showcase Museum focuses on the country music legend but also features displays on his friends, who included Roy Orbison, Patsy Cline and Elvis Presley. Nashville Zoo: Over 350 animals are on display in this innovative zoo, which covers 81 hectares (200 acres) not far from the centre of the city. The Nashville Zoo, 3777 Nolensville Road, Grassmere (tel: (615) 833 1534; e-mail: zoomover@nashvillezoo.org; website: www.nashvillezoo.org) can be reached by bus 12 to Nolensville Road/Harding Place. There are Bengal tigers, cheetahs, a new ‘Elephant Exhibit’, the USA’s largest community-built playground for the children, an ‘Unseen New World’ exhibit – with over 200 reptiles, insects, amphibians and fish – and the old Croft House. This was built in 1810 and now houses a working farm exhibit and a young children’s petting zoo. The zoo is open daily 0900-1600 and admission is US$6 (concessions are available). For a Whole Day Natchez Trace Parkway: No one should visit Nashville without sampling at least a short stretch of this unique drive, which begins about 24km (15 miles) southwest of the city centre. The whole parkway – one of the country’s first interstate highways – runs for 320km (200 miles) to Natchez in Mississippi and was an ancient trading route for early European settlers. Today, with a leisurely 80kph (50mph) speed limit and only recreational traffic, it makes a wonderfully peaceful drive through unspoilt scenery, with many historic landmarks – such as the Meriwether Lewis National Monument, where the early American explorer is buried – along the way. Any viewing point or picnic ground can serve as a turning-back point but visitors should remember to fill up with petrol before they leave Nashville, as there is only one petrol station along the whole road. Hotels Hotel prices are subject to a sales tax of 13.25%. Some hotels also add surcharges, such as the energy surcharge of US$3. The prices quoted below are the starting prices for double rooms, excluding sales tax and excluding breakfast, unless otherwise specified. Business Courtyard Nashville Downtown (Marriott) The reasonable price and convenient downtown location of the Courtyard Nashville Downtown make this white Georgian-style hotel a popular choice. The hotel boasts 12 floors, six meeting rooms, a full business centre and a valet service, as well as satellite TV, modem point and voice-mail in each room. The decor is not the most fashionable, with muted pink furnishings, but the lobby is quite homely and the hotel comes highly rated among business and sightseeing travellers alike. 170 Fourth Avenue North Tel: (615) 256 0900. Fax: (615) 256 0901. Website: www.courtyard.com Price: From US$100. Gaylord Opryland Resort and Convention Center The Gaylord Opryland is so vast that boats navigate the Delta River running through it. It is much more a busy town under one roof than a hotel in the traditional sense. The size and themes of this ante-bellum-style mansion could compete with the biggest in Las Vegas. Each of the 2884 guest rooms and 200 suites are equipped with a hair dryer, an iron and ironing board and personal voice-mail. Rich reds and thick carpets lend the Opryland a bumper amount of luxury. Covered by a vast glass dome is a 0.8 hectare (two-acre) forest complete with palms and waterfalls. Popular with convention and conference delegates, the Opryland also houses the Ryman Exhibit Hall and its golf course hosts the BellSouth Senior Classic. Over Christmas, the Opryland is bedecked in over two million lights. 2800 Opryland Drive Tel: (615) 889 1000. Website: www.oprylandhotels.com Price: From US$129. Hilton Suites Nashville The Hilton Suites is one of the newest hotels in towns, decorated in a style of contemporary elegance – all marble floors and golden fittings – with a grand atrium lobby and sweeping double staircase, which encircles the hotel’s Parkview Café. Each of the 330 two-room suites has two TVs, one double room or twin and an adjoining living room. As might be expected of a Hilton international hotel, all business needs are catered to – with two speakerphones, modem points and voice-mail in each room, nine meeting rooms and conference planning assistance. The hotel’s restaurants include the Eddie George Sports Grille, named after the hero of the Tennessee Titans, with 35 screens for American football fans. While the Hilton sometimes lacks attention to detail, it will be perennially popular given its location: adjacent to the Country Music Hall of Fame and Nashville Convention Center and within walking distance of Adelphia Coliseum where the Tennessee Titans play. 121 Fourth Avenue South Tel: (615) 620 1000. Fax: (615) 620 2050. E-mail: info@nashvillehilton.com Website: www.nashvillehilton.com Price: From US$140 (including breakfast). Sheraton Nashville Downtown This Sheraton in downtown Nashville is probably the best of the three in the chain in Nashville. The hotel is decorated in contemporary elegance, with a burgundy colour scheme and gold-coloured fittings, and the lobby is a grand introduction to the Sheraton concept, with its creamy marble floors and pillars. There are 476 rooms, each equipped with satellite TV, voice-mail and modem point. There are also nine luxury suites. Room service is 18-hour (from 0700). The management really has thought big and the establishment is ideal for conferences as its facilities can accommodate up to 1400. 623 Union Street Tel: (615) 259 2000. Fax: (615) 742 6057. Website: www.starwood.com/sheraton Price: From US$89. Luxury The Hermitage Hotel Without doubt the most beautiful place to stay in Nashville, The Hermitage Hotel was built in 1910 when it enjoyed the patronage of local merchants. Located downtown, the hotel has been renovated in more recent years to please the business traveller, tourist or Nashvillian out to really spoil themselves. From the stucco on the ceiling to the thick carpet and muted red tones in between, The Hermitage has a certain conservative elegance. All 120 suites have a bedroom, living room, en suite bathroom, two TVs, three telephones, a mini-bar and fridge. As well as unbridled grandeur, The Hermitage also offers the chance to get down to business with 592 sq metres (6582 sq ft) of meeting space for conference facilities and private functions in the Grand Ballroom. The restaurant, Capitol Grille, is one of the finest in Nashville (see the Restaurants section). 231 Sixth Avenue North Tel: (615) 244 3121. Fax: (615) 242 8715. Website: www.thehermitagehotel.com Price: From US$155. Loews Vanderbilt Plaza Hotel For powerbrokers in the music industry, this award-winning luxury hotel is the place to hang out or stay in, especially during events such as the annual Country Music Awards. The lobby is standard luxury fare with light-coloured polished marble, while each of the 304 rooms are tastefully, if conservatively, decorated in neutral colours and each come with TV, mini-bar, modem point and voice-mail. The hotel is big enough to accommodate business conferences large and small, while the 13 suites satisfy the likes of Don King. However, with friendly and efficient staff and the management’s attention to detail (such as umbrellas and CD players in the rooms), the hotel is not at all intimidating. 2100 West End Avenue Tel: (615) 320 1700. Fax: (615) 320 0576. Website: www.loewshotels.com/hotels/nashville Price: From US$150. Moderate Econo Lodge The Econo Lodge is exactly that – a cheap but not uncheerful chain that really does offer ‘Low Rates, High Standards’ as their slogan claims. Close to Nashville International Airport, this two-floor motel-style hotel is a comfortable, cheap option. Its 127 rooms all have air conditioning, cable TV and voice-mail. There is a fax and photocopier for guest use but no restaurant or bar. 893 Murfreesboro Road Tel: (615) 361 6830. Fax: (615) 366 6159. Website: www.econolodge.com Price: US$45 (including breakfast). Steeplechase Inn The Steeplechase is slightly out of town (ten minutes by car) but better value accommodation is not to be found in Nashville. Its faux Georgian exterior gives way to 47 rooms, 24 of which are suites that have kitchenettes, living rooms and fireplaces – ideal for longer stays. The colour of the decor is conservatively selected maroons and dusty pinks and the steeplechase theme is upheld by the racing prints hanging on the walls. Facilities include a business centre, fitness centre and spa. 5581 Franklin Pike Circle Tel: (615) 373 8585. Price: US$100 (including breakfast). Other Recommendations Hillsboro House Conveniently located near Vanderbilt University and Music Row, Hillsboro House is a small painted yellow Victorian clapboard house that has been transformed into a hugely popular cosy bed and breakfast. Each guest room has an en-suite bathroom, feather beds, antique furnishings, telephone and cable TV. The breakfasts are renowned, with home-baked muffins and fresh coffee. There is also a lounge for patrons and the garden makes for a pleasant place to relax and enjoy Southern hospitality in traditional surroundings. 1933 20th Avenue South Tel: (615) 292 5501 or (800) 228 7851. Price: From US$100 (including breakfast). Union Station – A Wyndham Historic Hotel Built in 1890, this former railway station now houses one of the most luxurious and interesting hotels in Nashville. A handcuffed Al Capone passed through here at one time and its one remaining train shed was only demolished in 2001. The exterior is slightly Gothic-looking but the interior is where the US$6 million spent on refurbishment in 1998 can really be seen – with its restored vaulted glass ceiling, gilt mirrors and bas-relief sculptures in the three-tiered lobby. The Union Station hotel has kept some of the vestiges of days gone by with a track schedule written on a board behind the check-in and the occasional train enthusiast guest – ever hopeful. Located in downtown Nashville, the hotel has 124 rooms and 13 suites, which are all pleasantly decorated in subtle Victorian style. The facilities, however, are not antiquated, with modem points and satellite TV in each room. It also has six meeting rooms, conference facilities, a business centre and one of the best restaurants in town, Arthur’s (see the Restaurants section). 1001 Broadway Tel: (615) 726 1001. Fax: (615) 248 6143. E-mail: minman@wyndham.com Website: www.wyndham.com/UnionStation/default.cfm Price: From US$139. Restaurants We have selected 25 restaurants, which we have divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. Restaurant prices are subject to a sales tax of 13.25%, which is usually added to the bill at the end. It is not common to find a service charge added as well, so it is assumed that diners will tip 10-15% of the total. The prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they do not include tax or tip. Gastronomic Arthur’s The most elegant Italian restaurant in town is housed in the splendid Union Station hotel (see the Hotels section). Award-winning Arthur’s boasts lofty ceilings, a huge fireplace, marble floors and wood-panelled walls. While the menu is fixed-price, it would take the most impervious of palates not to enjoy the seven courses, which include sea bass, turbot, kangaroo, partridge and ostrich. After 20 years of formal dining, Arthur’s has recently bagged a string of awards including the Mobil Four Star and the AAA Four Diamond. 1001 Broadway Tel: (615) 255 1494. Website: http://home.att.net/~arthursrestaurant Price: US$60 (fixed-price seven-course menu). Wine: US$26. CaféOneTwoThree The cosy Prohibition era feel of CaféOneTwoThree does not describe the ‘dryness’ of the restaurant, as it has an extensive wine list, but more the live jazz, the candlelight, the cosy dark wood surrounds – which all certainly add to that 1930s ambience. The menu should please the most jaded of palates, with dishes such as fried oysters with gorgonzola crème brûlée, blackened spicy shrimp with rémoulade sauce, ginger-crusted sea bass with risotto plum, mustard-covered pork chops with fried plantains, and ostrich quesadilla. Closed Sunday. No lunch. 123 12th Avenue North Tel: (615) 255 2233. Fax: (615) 256 7372. E-mail: faison@faisons.com Website: www.faisons.com/newsite/cafe123.htm Price: US$40. Wine: US$22. Capitol Grille One of the finest restaurants in Nashville is to be found in its finest hotel, The Hermitage (see the Hotels section). Its vaulted ceilings, iron candelabras and comfortable furnishings lend a cosy feel to the establishment, which serves a menu of tasty North American dishes with a Southern twist. The crawfish with tempura and candied pecans, the Cornish game hen and the Southern-style bouillabaisse are all particular hits with the locals and guests who dine here. Closed Sunday. 231 Sixth Avenue North Tel: (615) 345 7116. Fax: (615) 254 6909. Website: www.capitolgrille.com Price: US$45. Wine: US$25. Le Cou Rouge Le Cou Rouge (‘The Red Neck’) certainly attracts a following the direct opposite of the type of people its name suggests. Open beams wrapped in copper, blended with crisp white tablecloths – this is a modern Parisian take on old Tennessee. And the food reflects this: foie gras on hash browns, oyster and sausage au gratin with potatoes, or leeks and sea scallops with polenta and sweet jalapeño confit. Very simply, delicious. 2201 Bandywood Drive Tel: (615) 292 7773. Price: US$30. Wine: US$23. The Merchant’s The original building that now houses The Merchant’s used to be a pharmacy. On the first floor, ice cream sodas were served at the marble-top fountain, still intact today. The building became a hotel in 1925, when the original Grand Ole Opry opened at the Ryman across the road. A great place to come to be in the heart of Nashville, The Merchant’s has been serving food to the likes of Hank Williams, Patsy Cline and Dolly Parton since 1988. But star or no star, the staff greet everyone warmly. The ground floor hosts a huge bar, but upstairs the dining is formal (no jeans). The cuisine is Modern North American – grilled steak and lobster tail, cioppino seafood stew with shrimps, clams, mussels and scallops in a fresh tomato wine broth. The salads are huge and tasty, the steaks significant and succulent, the seafood fresh – all the dishes in general are thoughtful in design and execution. 401 Broadway Tel: (615) 254 1892. Fax: (615) 254 3012. Price: US$40. Wine: US$20. Business Caffe Nonna Rustic Tuscan cooking is to be had at this popular and cosy restaurant, with distressed ochre walls and dark wood tables and chairs. Lamb Shank Toscana (US$15.95) or the Linguine Angelina (US$13.95 – clams and pancetta), which comes with a choice of white or red sauces, can be recommended. Closed Sunday. No lunch Saturday. 4427 Murphy Road Tel: (615) 463 0133. Price: US$40. Wine: US$25. Margot Café and Bar Situated in up-and-coming East Nashville, Margot McCormack’s Mediterranean food is encouraging Nashvillians and visitors alike to venture over the Cumberland River to experience some fine cuisine. Seated either in the main restaurant or the pretty ground-floor patio, diners can choose from a wide variety of generous dishes from the entrée menu, such as spinach and goat’s cheese polenta soufflé, roast veal tenderloin with artichoke parmesan risotto. The homemade rosemary bread is delicious and the food is complemented by an extensive and good-quality wine list. Inside, the rustic feel is continued in the cosy bar with simple white-clothed tables and yellow walls, where it is possible to have a snack and drink (rather expensive) cocktails. Closed Monday. No lunch. 1017 Woodland Street Tel: (615) 227 4668. Price: US$35. Wine: US$24. Sperry’s This award-winning steakhouse in Belle Meade serves up blue cheese-stuffed beef fillet, or swordfish, halibut or tuna with jalapeño sauce, or ‘bananas foster’ flaming at the table. Established in 1974 and little changed since then, this cosy English pub-style eating place attracts a more mature crowd – with its reproduction wooden furniture, bare brick open fireplace and very unEnglish lobster tail by the pound. No lunch. 5109 Harding Road Tel: (615) 353 0809. Fax: (615) 353 0814. E-mail: info@sperrys.com Website: www.sperrys.com Price: US$40. Wine: US$25. Sunset Grill Having made it in Nashville’s music scene, this is where you’ll want to be seen, alongside other pundits from Los Angeles and celebrities such as Garth Brooks. It is very popular as a result, so it is necessary to book a table in the conservatory or on the brick patio. Special dishes include the vegetarian voodoo pasta (fettuccine with exotic seasonings), duck rigatoni, smoked salmon orzo, Gouda grits with crawfish and jalapeño veal. No lunch Saturday-Monday. 2001 Belcourt Avenue Tel: (615) 386 3663. Fax: (615) 386 0579. E-mail: sunsetgrill@mindspring.com Website: www.sunsetgrill.com Price: US$45. Wine: US$23. Trendy Bongo Java The place for the Nashville hipsters to hang out. Expect to be sitting next to a group of talented musicians or artists whatever time you drop by. Owned by the producers of the most popular coffee in town, this café is mainly a caffeine addict’s heaven, with an array of different coffees to choose from. A good menu of breakfast treats, all-day bagels (the ‘Egg McBongo’ is a speciality) and other simple yet delicious specials (turkey jerk) are chalked onto the board each day. Enjoy watching the world go by seated on the inviting front deck, or take refuge in the air-conditioned, relaxed seating area inside. No dinner. 2007 Belmont Boulevard Tel: (615) 385 5282. Fax: (615) 777 5282. E-mail: bongojava@aol.com Website: www.bongojava.com/master.html Price: US$4. Coffee: From US$1.24. Bosco’s One of several bar-restaurants in Nashville that brew their own beer, this is the home of a menu of at least 35 beers. It also serves good food – until 0230. The beer is brewed in copper tanks and can be viewed from the restaurant. Also, a cask-conditioned beer is tapped each day as a special for the evening. Any leftover beer is often used to bake homemade bread, as well as being added to a variety of sauces to accompany staples like oven-fired pizzas, salads and meat dishes. 1805 21st Avenue Tel: (615) 385 0050. Fax: (615) 385 0170. E-mail: nashville@boscosbeer.com Price: US$35. Wine: US$19. DaVinci’s Gourmet Pizza It might be expected that a pizza parlour named after the great Leonardo may turn out works of art rather than pizza with cheese and veggies. But who would have thought of oysters, or shrimp and scallops, or rosemary potatoes as fair game for pizza toppings. More straightforward combinations can be had, such as the Bella Vita with fresh spinach, feta and provolone, topped with fresh tomatoes and garlic. DaVinci’s feels more than a pizza parlour, housed as it is in a lovely blue-washed house with open-air dining on the verandah. No lunch Saturday-Tuesday. 1812 Hayes Street Tel: (615) 329 8098. Price: US$30. Wine: US$23. Kote Relatively new and very welcome in hip Belmont (not far from the local college) is Kote, an undisputedly great place to eat – and to be seen. Chef Gene Kote and his wife have revamped this old clapboard house with light colours, cane chairs and ample seating on the verandah overlooking the boulevard. The Modern North American food is equally light and tasteful, such as the grilled chicken topped with cheese, crispy onion strips and horseradish sauce. Closed Sunday. No dinner Monday. No lunch Saturday. 2017 Belmont Boulevard Tel: (615) 463 3350. Price: US$30. Wine: US$23. Mirror With its bright blue walls, neat aluminium furnishing and giant mosaic, Mirror is much cooler than its 12 South neighbourhood. The food is just as cool too. Its Miami proprietors have tried to give Nashville something truly special and they have achieved this with their primarily Modern North American cuisine – steaks and seafood etc. However, they also serve up inexpensive tapas and a ‘Country of the Month’ special menu, which has even ambitiously and successfully attempted Russian cuisine, for example the vegetable borscht. Closed Sunday. 2317 12th Avenue Tel: (615) 383 8330. Price: US$35. Wine: US$23. Budget Baja Burrito A really great cheap and cheerful Tex-Mex restaurant that is friendly, fun and busy. The ‘Peasant’s Plate’ is a US$4 hearty meal of filled burritos, rice and beans accompanied by a ‘bottomless soda’, with choices of corn or flour burritos. Their side order of corn chips and excellent salsa is highly recommended and the fish burritos have people flocking to its tables. 722 Thompson Lane Tel: (615) 383 2252. Fax: (615) 383 5021. Price: US$20. Wine: US$18. Benkay Japanese Restaurant Benkay is one of the longest standing Japanese restaurants in Nashville, however, the sushi and Japanese cooking is less authentic and more accessible to average Western tastes. The food is always fresh, the miso soup with tofu and mushrooms is fantastic and the bento boxes are packed with reliable meat and fish sushi. While Benkay is very reasonably priced, it does have more expensive dishes, including lobster tempura and sukiyaki prepared tableside. While the exterior is modern with stone-clad walls, the interior does adhere to more traditional Japanese decor with a tatami room. No lunch Sunday. 40 White Bridge Road Tel: (615) 356 6600. Price: US$20. Wine: US$18. Crow’s Barbecue Place No trip to Tennessee would be complete without a trip to a Southern barbecue and Crow’s is probably one of the best. This is where Tennesseans and tourists alike come for their fill of: ribs, chicken and fish. Tyrone ‘Crow’ Wilson makes his barbecue sauce hot and tasty to go with his specialities, such as a shoulder of beef sandwich on sweet corn bread or his fried fish sandwich. Closed Sunday. 730 McFerrin Avenue Tel: (615) 262 1311. Price: US$20. Beer: US$1.50. Pancake Pantry The almost inevitable queue outside the Pantry should not put you off – nor should the often under-whelming welcome from the manager. Once inside, the service is great and the blueberry pancakes are to die for. All-day breakfasts is the guise but pancakes are the real reason for the queue – all served with almost cream-like whipped butter and every topping or filling imaginable. We recommend forgeting the calorie-counting and going for both –eggs, bacon, hash browns etc, which are all excellent, and pancakes on the side, smothered in butter and syrup. They do good juices, tea and coffees too. Allegedly, even the ‘legendary’ country singer Garth Brooks cannot jump the queue here, but he still comes because it is worth it. 1796 21st Avenue South Tel: (615) 383 9333. Fax: (615) 383 0659. Price: US$15. Unlicensed. Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack Home of the all American Southern-style fried chicken, the word ‘hot’ in this restaurant’s name is not misleading. Fried in lard in traditional cast-iron skillets, this chicken is served in four varieties: mild (which is hot) to extra hot (which is killer). All quarter chickens (choose from breast and wing or thigh and leg) are served on two slices of white bread. Closed Sunday and Monday. 123 Ewing Drive Tel: (615) 226 9442. Price: US$20. Wine: US$18. Personal Recommendations 12th and Porter Predominantly a music venue, this building also houses a bar and restaurant. A limited menu offers a range of meals – from shell prawns on ice served with piquant dipping sauce to substantial chicken and rice dishes, and beef and fish. The kitchen stays open late so that music-lovers can go through to the back of the building and enjoy the food and the live music in one. The MC has also been known to offer free shots when the mood takes him! Wood-panelled walls, simple table and chairs lend this nightspot an unpretentious feel. 114 12th Avenue Tel: (615) 254 7236. Fax: (615) 259 2957. Website: www.faisons.com/newsite/12th.htm Price: US$17. Wine: US$20. Blue Moon Waterfront Café With great views over the Rock Harbour Marina, it is no surprise that seafood looms large on the Blue Moon menu. The Siamese catfish, prepared with toasted sesame seeds, plum sauce and hot mustard, is a particular hit. It is open air with simple tables and chairs and, while it is not the most glamorous of eating places, the glamour of the boats docked in the harbour will surely make up for it. 525 Basswood Avenue Tel: (615) 352 5892. Fax: (615) 353 0913. Price: US$25. Wine: US$20. Elliston Place Soda Shop The original Nashville soda shop, this place is stuck in the 1950s: from the original Wurlitzer jukebox to the neon signs above the bar, it is all truly authentic. The Elliston Place Soda Shop vies for the honour of best milkshake in town and serves traditional diner-style fare – burgers, breakfasts, grits etc. It is worth it for the decor alone. Closed Sunday. 2111 Elliston Place Tel: (615) 327 1090. Price: US$20. Soda: US$2.50. Kien Giang This was Nashville’s first Vietnamese restaurant and, although it is built from modern breeze blocks with no attempts to hide the fact, the taste of the dishes far exceeds the prices charged for them. The noodle soup is particularly good, as are the banh xeo (pancake with shrimp, pork, onions and bean sprouts) and gao xao xa ot (a hot and spicy stir-fried chicken dish with lemongrass). Closed Monday. 5825 Charlotte Park Tel: (615) 353 1250. Price: US$20. Beer bottle: US$1.50. Loveless Motel & Cafe Slightly out of town up Highway 100 but well worth the drive, The Loveless Motel & Café is where the stars of country and western music and their fans have flocked for over four decades. Paul McCartney is just one of the many international stars who have sampled the Southern home cooking. The best time to go is probably when the day begins with breakfast waffles and Southern-fried grits. The day ends with their special-fried chicken and biscuits served with homemade peach and blackberry jams. Whitewashed clapboards outside and wood-panelled walls hung with autographed photos inside add to its homely, cosy feel. 8400 Highway 100 Tel: (615) 646 9700. Fax: (615) 646 1056. E-mail: george55@aol.com Website: www.lovelesscafe.com Price: US$20. Unlicensed. Mad Platter If the name doesn’t intrigue enough, the sumptuous but simple dishes will. The Modern North American menu changes regularly but the wild mushroom ravioli with mustard tarragon sauce, sautéed crab cakes garnished with passionfruit honey mustard sauce or the grilled snapper over wild mushroom linguini puttanesca are sure to win the heart of the most ascetic eater. Bare brick walls, wooden floors, bookcases and friendly personal service will all contribute to a very relaxed dining experience. No lunch Saturday-Monday. 1239 Sixth Avenue North Tel: (615) 242 2563. E-mail: madplat@aol.com Website: www.madplatter.com Price: US$35. Wine: US$18. Sport Nashville is home to all the spectator sports expected in a major American city, including baseball, American football, ice hockey and speedway. The Nashville Sounds (website: www.nashvillesounds.com) baseball team is an AAA team for the Pittsburgh Pirates (website: www.toptown.com/hp/66/pirates.htm), who play from April to September at the Herschel Greer Stadium, Chestnut Street and Eighth Street (tel: (615) 242 4371). The NFL Tennessee Titans (website: www.titansonline.com) play from August to January at the new 67,000-seater Adelphia Coliseum, 1 Titans Way (tel: (615) 565 4000), by the Cumberland River. The Nashville Predators (tel: (615) 770 2300; website: www.nashvillepredators.com) play ice hockey from October to April, at the Nashville Arena, 501 Broadway (tel: (615) 770 2000). The Nashville Speedway (tel: (615) 726 1818; website: www.fairgroundsspeedway) is at the Tennessee State Fairgrounds (tel: (615) 862 8980; website: tennesseestatefair.org), Nolensville Road exit, and has weekly events from April to September. For participation in sports, most people head outside the city to the Tennessee countryside, to indulge in hiking, cycling, fishing, hunting and golf. Alternatively, for visitors looking to attend a sporting event, tickets are available from Ticketmaster (tel: (615) 255 9600; website: www.ticketmaster.com). Bowling: No American city worth its salt is without a bowling alley or three. In Nashville, there is West Bowl, 5400 Charlotte Ave (tel: (615) 298 2632), Melrose Bowling Lanes, 2600 Franklin Pike (tel: (615) 297 7142) and Tusculum Lanes, 5315 Nolensville Pike (tel: (615) 833 2881). Fitness centres: The Downtown Athletic Club, 520 Commerce Street (tel: (615) 271 2616), is open to visitors and has gym, sauna, volleyball, basketball, aerobics, weights and other facilities. Other gyms include Steps, 2207 21st Avenue South (tel: (615) 269 8844) and Arm-O’s, 1907 Division (tel: (615) 321 0714) in the Music Row district. Golf: There are numerous courses and resorts close to Nashville, including a championship course at the Springhouse Golf Club, part of the Opryland Hotel, 18 Springhouse Lane (tel: (615) 871 7759). Other championship resorts are Hermitage Golf Course, 3939 Old Hickory Boulevard (tel: (615) 847 4001) and Legends Club of Tennessee, 1500 Legends Club Lane, Franklin (tel: (615) 791 8100). Clubs include the Forrest Crossing Golf Course, 750 Riverview Drive (tel: (615) 794 9400), and The Legacy, 100 Ray Floyd Drive, Springfield (tel: (615) 384 4653). Weekday green fees for non-members start at approximately US$45 per day. Horseriding: Tennessee is natural horseriding country, with plenty of stables and ranches in the Nashville vicinity. These cater for beginners and more advanced riders alike and include Biota Ranch, 5220 Ridge Hill Drive, Joelton (tel: (615) 876 6062), Ju-Ro Stables, 7149 Cairo Bend Road, Lebanon (tel: (615) 449 6621), Music City Riding Academy, 7455 Highway 100 (tel: (615) 353 4790), Namaste Acres Country Ranch Inn, 5436 Leipers Creek Road, Franklin (tel: (615) 791 0333) and Ramblin’ Breeze Ranch, 3665 Knight Road, Whites Creek (tel: (615) 876 1029). Rates cost approximately US$20 per hour. Ice skating: There is a rink at the Thomas Frist Centennial Sportsplex, 25th Avenue, at Brandau (tel: (615) 862 8480). Swimming: Plenty of public pools help Nashvilleians to cool off in the summer heat. These include Glencliff, Antioch Pike (tel: (615) 862 8470), Pearl-Cohn, 904 26th Avenue North (tel: (615) 862 8471), Whites Creek, 7277 Old Hickory Boulevard (tel: (615) 876 4300) and the Thomas Frist Centennial Sportsplex, 25th Avenue, at Brandau (tel: (615) 862 8480). Tennis: There are several free tennis courts around the city, run by Metro Parks and Recreation. The Thomas Frist Centennial Sportsplex, 25th Avenue, at Brandau (tel: (615) 862 8480), has both indoor and outdoor courts from US$4 per hour. Pre-booked municipal indoor and outdoor courts are available at the Metro Sports and Recreation Center, East Park, 700 Woodland St (615 862 8448, 8490). Watersports: Several lakes are very close to Nashville, where fishing and boating equipment are available for hire. These include Old Hickory Lake and Percy Priest Lake, less than a half-hour drive from Downtown. To fish, a Tennessee fishing licence is necessary – these are readily available at marinas and sporting goods stores. Rod and Gun Guide Service, 3502 Amanda Avenue (tel: (615) 385 1116) provides fly-fishing guides. Shopping The best buys in Nashville are inevitably music-related and can be found in Music City. Difficult-to-find CDs can be easier to find here, while some record stores are attractions in their own right. One such is Ernest Tubb’s Record Shop No 1, 417 Broadway (tel: (615) 255 7503), founded by the ‘Texas Troubador’. It has an excellent stock of country music, with memorabilia as well as vinyl and CDs. Other branches are at 1516 Demonbruen (tel: (615) 244 2845) and 2416 Music Valley Drive (tel: (615) 889 2474). For a wider choice, the biggest record store in Nashville is Tower Records, 2400 West End Boulevard (tel: (615) 327 3722). The main musical instrument store – one of the best in the USA – is Gruhn Guitars, 400 Broadway (tel: (615) 256 2033), and is worth a visit just to look at its vintage guitars. Clothing goes hand-in-hand with country music and outrageous outfits can be bought at Dangerous Threads, 105 Second Avenue (tel: (615) 256 1033). Other good country clothing stores include Flemings, 2922B West End Avenue (tel: (615) 327 1252) and Manuel Exclusive Clothier, 1922 Broadway (tel: (615) 321 5444). Unusual and distinctive music souvenirs are available for purchase at Hatch Show Print Shop, 316 Broadway (tel: (615) 256 2805), a working print shop that has many vintage as well as contemporary show posters for sale, along with postcards and photographs. The best shopping malls are out of town. The biggest and newest is Opry Mills, 433 Opry Mills Mall (tel: (615) 514 1100), with 200 stores, restaurants, cafés and entertainment venues – including an IMAX theatre. Slightly smaller, with 165 stores and good for clothing in particular, is the Cool Springs Galleria, 1800 Galleria Boulevard, off I-65 (tel: (615) 771 2128). From 14 June to November, the Nashville Food Fair (tel: (615) 444 6104) takes place in five different locations on various days of the week. These open-air farmers markets are located in various church grounds at 6401 Harding Road (Tuesday), 4101 Harding Road (Wednesday), 643 Harding Place (Thursday), 2100 Woodmont Boulevard (Friday) and 3061 Nolensville Road (Saturday). All manner of farm produce goes on sale between 0700 and 1200. Opening hours tend to be Monday-Saturday 1000-1800 Downtown and Monday-Saturday 1000-2100 and Sunday 1300-1800 in the suburbs. In Nashville, the sales tax is 8.25%, which is non-refundable. Culture The dominance of country music tends to overshadow the fact that Nashville is also a hotbed of many other types of art and culture. There is a Nashville Ballet, Nashville Opera, Nashville Symphony Orchestra and Nashville Chamber Orchestra, not to mention many theatres, music schools, art galleries and dance venues. Indeed, many musicians lead dual lives, switching from country to classical with ease. The city’s prime venue is the Tennessee Performing Arts Center, 505 Deaderick Street (tel: (615) 846 0638; website: www.tpac.org). TPAC, as it is known, has three theatres, which usually have shows running simultaneously. The large Jackson Hall is home to the Nashville Symphony but also hosts rock concerts, musicals, opera and dance. The small Polk Theater is used for drama and more intimate musical evenings and the Johnson Theater is also for smaller-scale events, such as TV shows, conferences, trade shows and drama productions. Local newspaper The Tennessean features listings in its Thursday and Sunday editions. Key Magazine is a weekly guide to events in the area, while Nashville Scene, published every Wednesday, is an in-depth guide to events in the city. All tickets can be obtained from the various venues directly or from Ticketmaster (tel: (615) 255 9600; website: www.ticketmaster.com), which is based at the Tennessee Performing Arts Center. There are additional Ticketmaster outlets in most major department stores. Music: The Nashville Chamber Orchestra performs in various venues throughout the city, including the Blair Recital Hall, Blair School of Music, 2400 Blakemore Boulevard (tel: (615) 322 7651). The Nashville Opera (tel: (615) 832 5242; website: www.nashvilleopera.org) performs at the Polk Theatre, Tennessee Performing Arts Center, 505 Deaderick Street (tel: (615) 846 0638; website: www.tpac.org) and the Nashville Symphony (tel: (615) 255 5600; website: www.nashvillesymphony.com) performs at the Jackson Hall, Tennessee Performing Arts Center, 505 Deaderick Street (tel: (615) 846 0638; website: www.tpac.org). Theatre: The theatre scene flourishes with a range of companies and venues. Major touring productions are staged at the Tennessee Performing Arts Center, 505 Deaderick Street (tel: (615) 846 0638; website: www.tpac.org), while the Tennessee Repertory Theater Company (tel: (615) 244 4878; website: www.tnrep.org) performs at the Polk Theater, in the same venue. The Nashville Children’s Theater, 724 Second Avenue South (tel: (615) 254 9103), also stages good performances. Dance: The principal venue is again the Tennessee Performing Arts Center, 505 Deaderick Street (tel: (615) 846 0638; website: www.tpac.org), which is home to the Nashville Ballet (tel: (615) 244 7233; website: www.nashvilleballet.org). Film: Nashville has several multiplex cinemas showing the latest major releases, such as Regal Hollywood 27, 719 Thomposon Lane-100 Oaks Mall (tel: (615) 298 3445) and Wynnsong 10, 721 Myatt Drive (tel: (615) 860 7686). Two other venues concentrate on arthouse films – the Surratt Cinema, 24th Avenue South and Vanderbilt Place (tel: (615) 322 2425) and the Watkins-Belcourt Theater, 2101 Belcourt Avenue, Hillsboro Village (tel: (615) 383 9140). The most famous film set here is Robert Altman’s Nashville (1975), a sharp satire of the country music scene. A more recent film about the music business is The Thing Called Love (1993), starring River Phoenix. Various country music bio-pics have been filmed here, including Coal Miner’s Daughter (1980), in which Sissy Spacek portrays Loretta Lynn, and Sweet Dreams (1985), starring Jessica Lange as Patsy Cline. Cultural events: Nashville’s year is filled with events, many naturally involving music. Crafts feature too and the summer kicks off with the Tennessee Crafts Fair in May, followed by the American Artisan Crafts Fair in June, both in Centennial Park. June also sees the big music event of the year, the Country Music Fan Fair International. This week-long jamboree centres on concerts at the Tennessee State Fairgrounds but visiting stars pop up all over town, doing sets and signing sessions. Also in June, the five-day Nashville International Film Festival takes place at Royal Green Hills. The Italian Street Fair celebrates the city’s Italian culture and takes up a long weekend in late August or early September. Despite its name, it takes place in Centennial Park. The Nashville Shakespeare Festival mounts a Shakespeare production every August. In Downtown Franklin, to the south of Nashville, is September’s Franklin Jazz Festival, while the African Street Festival also takes place that month, at the TSU State Campus. German culture is showcased in Germantown at the Oktoberfest, not surprisingly in October, while the same month also sees the Grand Ole Opry Birthday Celebration, at the Grand Ole Opry House. October also has the Southern Festival of Books and the Tennessee Association of Craft Artists (TACA) Fall Fair. Finally, Christmas Nashville-style is celebrated in Country Christmas, throughout November and December at the Opryland Hotel. Literary Notes Nashville has numerous literary connections, including the city’s name, which comes from an ancestor of the humorous poet, Ogden Nash. The United States’ first official Poet Laureate, Robert Penn Warren, studied English at Nashville’s Vanderbilt University and his novel, At Heaven’s Gate (1943), is set in the financial world of 1930s Nashville. Although not born in Nashville, novelist Alfred Leland Crabb lived there for much of his life and wrote several historical novels set in the city, including Breakfast at the Hermitage (1945), as well as the non-fiction Nashville: Personality of a City (1960). The distinguished Southern novelist, Peter Taylor, also attended Vanderbilt and set many of his short stories in Nashville, including some from his collection In the Miro District and Other Stories (1977). Perhaps best known for penning the hit record Harper Valley PTA (1968), the musician and writer, Tom T Hall, wrote the semi-autobiographical novel The Storyteller’s Nashville (1979). Outsiders’ views on Nashville include those of Trinidadian-born V S Naipaul, who visited the city for his book A Turn in the South (1989). New York Brat Pack author Jay McInerney is married to a Nashville jewellery designer and spends part of his time in her home town, which increasingly features in his fiction, including The Last of the Savages (1996). An inside view of the contemporary music scene can be had in Walkin’ After Midnight (2000), by Lauren St John, which includes interviews with such luminaries as Steve Earle and Emmylou Harris. Nightlife Music is the focus of Nashville’s nightlife, of course, with many of the city’s bars starting their music stints at 1000, when they open. Acts play throughout the day and into the night – sometimes two acts play simultaneously in different rooms at the same venue. Country music is not the only attraction, however, as Nashville also attracts rock, swing and jazz musicians too. Downtown is the hub, with many of the liveliest places along Broadway or nearby in Printer’s Alley. The legal drinking age in Tennessee is 21 years and bars are licensed until 0300. Beers cost, on average, US$2 or US$3 for imported beers and US4-5 for wine and spirits. A tip of 20% is expected at the bar and table. Dress code is ‘anything goes’ in the honky-tonks and ‘smart-casual’ elsewhere, although Nashville is always more casual than smart. The free, pocket-sized weekly listings magazine, The Rage (website: www.nashvillerage.com) and the more comprehensive free weekly paper, Nashville Scene (website: www.nashvillescene.com) provide information on nightlife venues and events. Listings information is also available online (website: http://nashville.citysearch.com). Bars: These are too numerous to mention them all, however, no one should miss Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge, 422 Broadway. Close to the stage door of Ryman Auditorium, musicians used to nip in here for a drink between shows and famous visitors have included Hank Williams, Willie Nelson and Kris Kristoffersen. Other nearby options with live bands include the Bluegrass Inn, 418 Broadway, where there would be no prizes for guessing that bluegrass is always playing, Wolfy’s, 425 Broadway, with a more club-like atmosphere and the hill-billy hang-out, Robert’s Western World, 416 Broadway, where the band BR5-49 launched their career. Well worth the cab ride across the river to East Nashville, is the up-and-coming dive bar, Slow Bar, 1024 Woodland St. Casinos: There are no casinos in the Nashville area. Clubs: Swing, salsa and disco, with live music, can be had at The Lava Lounge, 1719 West End Avenue. Blues music, a bar and good food is available at the ever-busy Bourbon Street Blues and Boogie Bar, 220 Printer’s Alley. There are several sophisticated jazz clubs, including Gibson Caffe Milano, 176 Third Avenue and Manhattan’s, 901 Second Avenue North. Live music: As one would perhaps expect, Nashville is a thriving live music centre – and not just for country music. Great live performances can be caught just about every night of the week, in one or other of the city’s numerous bars and clubs. Robert’s, 416 Broadway, Tootsie’s, 422 Broadway, and The Bluegrass Cafe, 418 Broadway (see above), have live bands virtually around the clock. The Ryman Auditorium, 116 Fifth Avenue (see Key Attractions in the Sightseeing section), has bigger acts, as does the Tennessee Performing Arts Center, 505 Deaderick Street (see Culture section). Only a short cab ride away, The Station Inn, 402 12th Avenue South, hosts bluegrass in home-style surroundings. City Statistics Location: Davidson County, Tennessee, southeastern USA. Country dialling code: 1. Population: 569,891 (Nashville/Davidson County); 1.3 million (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: 82.5% white, 15% black, 1.4% Asian, 1.1% Hispanic. Religion: Mostly Christian with a strong Baptist following. Time zone: GMT - 5. Electricity: 110 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: 3ºC (37ºF). Average July temp: 27ºC (80ºF). Annual rainfall: 1232mm (48.5 inches). Special Events Battle of New Orleans Anniversary Celebration, Jan, throughout the city Martin Luther King Day, public holiday and parade, 20 Jan, throughout the city Presidents Day, public holiday, 17 Feb, throughout the city Andrew Jackson Birthday Celebration, laying of wreaths, 15 Mar, Hermitage Tennessee Crafts Fair, May, Centennial Park Memorial Day, public holiday, 26 May, throughout the city American Artisan Crafts Fair, Jun, Centennial Park Country Music Fan Fair International, Jun, Tenessee State Fairgrounds and other venues Nashville International Film Festival, Jun, Royal Green Hills Independence Day, public holiday, 4 Jul, throughout the city Italian Street Fair, Aug/Sep, throughout the city Nashville Shakespeare Festival, Aug, various venues Franklin Jazz Festival, Aug, Downtown Franklin African Street Festival, Aug, TSU State Campu Labour Day, public holiday, 2 Sep, throughout the city Tennessee State Fair, Sep, Tennessee State Fairgrounds Columbus Day, public holiday, 14 Oct, throughout the city Oktoberfest, German cultural celebrations, Oct, Germantown Grand Ole Opry Birthday Celebration, Oct, Grand Ole Opry House Southern Festival of Books, Oct, throughout the city Tennessee Association of Craft Artists (TACA) Fall Fair, Oct, throughout the city Veterans Day, public holiday, 11 Nov, throughout the city Thanksgiving, public holiday, last Thurs in Nov, throughout the city Nashville Food Fair, open-air farmers markets, until Nov, 6401 Harding Road (Tuesday), 4101 Harding Road (Wednesday), 643 Harding Place (Thursday), 2100 Woodmont Boulevard (Friday) and 3061 Nolensville Road (Saturday) Country Christmas, Nov-Dec, Opryland Hotel Christmas Day, public holiday, 25 Dec, throughout the city Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$1 33cl bottle of beer: US$2.25 Financial Times newspaper: US$1.50 36-exposure colour film: US$4.95 City-centre bus ticket: US$1.40 Adult football ticket: US$40 Three-course meal with wine/beer: US$15-25 1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.63; C$1.51; A$1.67; €0.93 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.