Home > City Guide  - New Orleans
USACity Overview New Orleans is the jewel of the southern US state of Louisiana, sparkling just above the mouth of the mighty Mississippi River where it meets the Gulf of Mexico. The heart of the city lies between the river and Lake Pontchartrain and, from this approximately 13km (eight-mile) core, the suburbs of Greater New Orleans spread out into the surrounding expanse of drained swampland. The river’s shape, as it curves around the central district, gave rise to the city’s nickname, ‘Crescent City’, although, New Orleans is more likely to be known as the ‘Big Easy’, a comment on the city’s preferred languorous pace. New Orleans was founded in 1718, at the swampy foot of France’s huge Louisiana territory, and named after the Duc d’Orleans. Despite hurricanes, mosquitoes, disease and floods, settlers came and the city prospered. In 1762, the territory was secretly ceded to Spain. France regained it in 1800, only to sell it to the United States three years later in the Louisiana Purchase. Drawn by the rich plantations and thriving port, the Americans came seeking their fortunes. During the 19th century, New Orleans boomed with trade from the cotton and sugar plantations and, by 1860, was the wealthiest city in the country. After the Civil War (1861-65), the region’s slave-based agricultural economy declined. Today, the Port of New Orleans, the second largest in the country, is the mainstay of the city’s economy, along with the petrochemical and aerospace industries, and tourism. New Orleans, with its unique atmosphere, is one of the most popular US destinations, particularly during its magnificent Mardi Gras celebration in late February/March. Its oldest district, the French Quarter (Vieux Carré), has a wealth of architecture that portrays its colourful history. Most of the original buildings were destroyed in the fire of 1788 and the graceful houses with ornate wrought-iron balconies are actually Spanish in style. In fact, New Orleans has 17 National Historic Districts, with more than 35,000 listed buildings. The easiest way to get orientated in New Orleans is to divide it into two main sections, Uptown and Downtown, with Lee Circle as the boundary. Above Lee Circle are the French Quarter and Faubourg Marigny. The Warehouse Arts District and Central Business District (CBD) border Lee Circle. Below Lee Circle are Uptown, the Garden District and Audubon Park. When asking directions, the river, not the compass, should be the guide. Locals seldom refer to north or east but rather to Uptown (up river) or Downtown (down river), lakeside or riverside. ‘The Big Easy’, a clue to the city’s laid-back and genial atmosphere, is also a reference to a pace necessitated by climate. The subtropical weather is generally hot and humid from mid-March to October, although winter can be chilly and damp. The city can get a lot of rain, climaxing in intense summer afternoon thunderstorms. This is the time to indulge in New Orleans’ famous gastronomy, with such local specialities as gumbo, crawfish, red beans and rice, oysters, a muffaletta sandwich, or simply a beignet (square doughnuts doused with powdered sugar) and a cup of strong chicory-flavoured coffee. The mixing of French, Spanish, African and American cultures over the centuries has created a unique environment, blending the genteel elegance of the colonial Creoles, the music and cuisine of the peasant Cajuns, the exuberance of Mardi Gras, a touch of voodoo and a big dollop of Dixieland jazz. The timelessness of New Orleans can be heard in the clattering of the streetcars, the distant whistles of the riverboats, a busker playing a saxophone or the soft sounds of jazz through an open window. As they say in New Orleans, ‘Laissez les bons temps rouler’ – let the good times roll! Getting There By Air New Orleans International Airport (MSY) Tel: (504) 464 3547 or 0831. Fax: (504) 465 1264. E-mail: mail@flymsy.com Website: www.flymsy.com The international airport for New Orleans is also known as Moisant Airport, after a famous New Orleans aviator, and is 24km (15 miles) west of the city in Kenner. It is comparatively small (rated only 40th for volume in the USA) and easy to negotiate but has all the modern airport facilities. Major airlines: The national carrier serving the airport is American Airlines (tel: (800) 433 7300; website: www.aa.com), although Southwest Airlines and Continental Airlines have the most gates. Other carriers are Air Canada, British Airways, Delta, Northwest Airlines, United Airlines, US Airways and Virgin Atlantic. Approximate flight times to New Orleans: From London is 10 hours; from New York is 2 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 4 hours; from Toronto is 5 hours and from Sydney is 21 hours. Airport facilities: These include banks, bureau de change, ATMs, post office, luggage lockers, multilingual information booths and a few restaurants, bars and shops. The major car rental companies, including Alamo, Avis, Dollar, Hertz, National and Thrifty, all have offices at the airport. Business facilities: The Mutual of Omaha Business Center is located in the Ticket Lobby, near the Post Office. It is open daily 0600-1900 and offers various business services. Arrival/departure tax: US$24 international departure tax, included in ticket. Transport to the city: The New Orleans Tours Airport Shuttle Bus (tel: (504) 522 3500) runs frequently between the airport and the major Downtown hotels, at a cost of US$10 one way (journey time – 45 minutes). The service commences at 0400 and continues until the last flight of the evening. The Louisiana Transit Company Bus (tel: (504) 818 1077) runs a local bus service every ten minutes, 0600-1830, costing US$1.50 one way – the major Downtown stop being on Tulane Avenue, opposite the public library. Outside those hours, the service terminates at Carrollton Avenue, from where travellers must transfer to bus 39, to continue Downtown (journey time – 45 minutes). Taxis fares are regulated and cost US$24 to Downtown for one or two people, plus US$10 for each additional passenger. Fares are higher for the airport than for other destinations around the city. Getting There By Water Getting There By Road Major cross-country roads in the USA are called Interstate roads. On road signs and maps, these are designated by an ‘I’ and a corresponding number. All 50 US states have their own traffic rules and regulations, although there is generally little difference. Some states, for instance, require lights during rain. In Louisiana, the minimum age for driving is 16 years and cars drive on the right. All valid national licences are acceptable, however, an International Driving Permit (IDP) is preferred. US insurance is mandatory and can be purchased from the car hire company. Speed limits are generally 48kph (30mph) in town, 88kph (55mph) on highways and 105kph (65mph) on the Interstate highways, unless otherwise posted. The wearing of seatbelts in a private vehicle is mandatory. Children under four years old must be protected in car seats. Louisiana has strict laws against drinking and driving, and driving while intoxicated is cause for arrest and a criminal charge. Drink driving laws are strictly enforced. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.10%. Open containers of alcoholic beverages are not permitted in vehicles. Seatbelts must be worn by everyone in the car and passengers under 12 must be seated in the back. Drivers may turn right at a red light if the way is clear. A flashing red traffic light is the same as a stop sign, which means that it is necessary to come to a full stop and proceed when safe. The American Automobile Association (AAA; tel: (800) 222 1333) can provide information, and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries. Emergency breakdown service: AAA (800) AAA HELP or 222 4357 Routes to the city: I-10 heads west to Houston (Texas) and Los Angeles (California), and east to Mobile (Alabama) and Jacksonville (Florida). I-55 heads north to Memphis, St Louis (Missouri) and Chicago. I-59 connects New Orleans to Birmingham (Alabama) and Chattanooga (Tennessee). Note that the exit for the French Quarter is marked ‘Vieux Carré’. Approximate driving times to New Orleans: From Jacksonville – 8 hours 30 minutes; Los Angeles – 30 hours; Mobile – 2 hour 30 minute; Baton Rouge – 1 hour 35 minutes. Coach services: Greyhound buses (tel: (800) 231 2222, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.greyhound.com) arrive at the 24-hour Union Passenger Terminal, 1001 Loyola Avenue (tel: (504) 524 7571), which is shared with rail services. Facilities include a tourist information booth and café. There are frequent services to Baton Rouge, Lafayette, Memphis and Mobile. Getting There By Rail Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.amtrak.com) is the national railway provider and its service is generally good. Trains arrive and depart from the Union Passenger Terminal, 1001 Loyola Avenue (tel: (504) 528 1610), where there is a tourist information booth and café. Rail services: New Orleans is the terminus for the City of New Orleans service from Chicago, Illinois via Memphis, Tennessee (journey time – 30 hours), and the Crescent service from New York City via Atlanta, Georgia (journey time – 19 hours). The Sunset Limited service passes through New Orleans on its 4800km (3000-mile) journey between Orlando, Florida (journey time – 17 hours) and Los Angeles, California (journey time – 32 hours). Transport to the city: The station is very centrally located and although there are no buses, taxis are readily available. Walking from the station is not recommended at night. Getting Around Public Transport Streetcars and buses are operated by the Regional Transport Authority – RTA (tel: (504) 248 3900, 24-hour Rideline; website: www.regionaltransit.org). Streetcars and major bus routes operate a 24-hour service. The New Orleans streetcar system is the oldest in the USA and an attraction in its own right. Two lines run the length of St Charles Avenue and along the Mississippi riverfront. One-way fare is US$1.25 on the St Charles/Carrollton Avenue line and US$1.50 on the Riverfront line (exact change only). Buses run throughout the city. Fares are US$1.25 plus US$0.25 per transfer. Tickets for both forms of transport are purchased upon boarding (exact change only). Schedules are available from the RTA office for US$0.10. The VisiTour pass allows unlimited travel on RTA buses and streetcars. The pass is available from hotels and shopping areas for US$5 (one-day pass) or US$12 (three-day pass). There is also a ferry service operated by Canal Street Ferry (tel: (504) 364 8100) between Canal Street and the suburb of Algiers on the other side of the river. The trip takes ten minutes and leaves every half-hour 0630-2400. It costs US$1 return per car and is free for foot passengers. Tickets are purchased upon boarding (exact change only). There are no toilet facilities or food or drink concessions available in the terminals or on the ferry. Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street and are easily found in the French Quarter and along Riverwalk. They can also be telephoned for, although there may be a wait. Companies include Checker Yellow Cabs (tel: (504) 943 2411) and United Cabs (tel: (504) 522 9771). Taxis have a US$2.50 initial charge plus US$1 for each additional passenger and US$1.10 per mile. A tip of 10% is common. The Taxicab Bureau (tel: (504) 565 6272) provides further information. Limousines There are several companies offering limousine hire, including A Confidential Transportation (tel: (504) 897 3000), New Orleans Limousine Service (tel: (504) 529 5226), Uptown Limousine Service (tel: (504) 888 6354), Orleans Limousines (tel: (504) 288 1111) and A Touch of Class Limousine Service (tel: (504) 522 7565). Rates start at US$30 per hour plus tax and gratuity for the driver. Rates vary widely according to the type of vehicle and length of rental; some companies offer weekday and other special deals. Driving in the City A car is neither necessary nor recommended in Downtown New Orleans. Parking space is minimal and most hotels charge daily rates for off-street parking. Most places that visitors might want to see can be reached on foot or by taxis, which are not expensive. In the French Quarter especially, streets are narrow and are on a one-way system, with some streets being closed to vehicles at certain times. The streets are also usually crowded with visitors paying little attention to traffic and at Mardi Gras the entire French Quarter is closed to traffic. Parking meters operate 0800-1800 with a maximum two-hour stay. Parking regulations are rigorously enforced. The main car park in the French Quarter is the Dixie Parking Service, Bourbon Street (tel: (504) 522 5975). Rates start at US$4 for the first hour decreasing to US$11 per 24 hours. Car Hire All the major car hire companies have offices in New Orleans, both downtown and at the airport. These include Alamo (tel: (800) 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (800) 527 0700; website: www.budget.com), Dollar (tel: (800) 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com) and Hertz (tel: (800 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com). Rates start at about US$30 per day (US$150 per week) for a budget model, on top of which there will be a 12% car rental tax and an optional US$10-15 per day CDW (Collision Damage Waiver) insurance. This is always recommended if not already covered by the driver’s own policy. Drivers must be over 21 years to hire a car – most companies make extend this limit to 25 years – and will need a valid licence or International Driving Permit and credit card. Bicycle Hire Renting a bicycle is fairly popular in New Orleans, although the most relaxing cycling is away from the French Quarter in places such as Audubon Park, City Park and by Lake Pontchartrain. Rates for a good bicycle cost approximately US$5 per hour or US$15 per day. Companies include French Quarter Bicycles, 522 Dumaine Street (tel: (504) 529 3136) and Joe’s Bike Shop, 2501 Tulane Street (tel: (504) 821 2350). Business Business Profile The economy of New Orleans centres around its port, the offshore oil industry and tourism. The Port of New Orleans handles the greatest total cargo tonnage in the United States. The city’s traditional trading links with Latin American countries are growing, boosted by investments in new coffee-bean silos and cold-storage facilities for tropical fruits. New Orleans has always benefited from its position between the Mississippi River and the Gulf, which enables domestic products, such as grain, steel and mechanical parts, to be transferred from northern cities by barge to ocean freighter for shipment all over the world. The port and other maritime businesses in the surrounding region bring in more than three billion US Dollars annually. The largest private employer in the city is Litton-Avondale Industries, a shipbuilding and repair company. Tidewater Marine LLC is a leading maritime transportation company, as are Disc International Shipholding and Transoceanic Shipping Company. During the 1970s, oil was a booming industry in New Orleans, due to the wealth of offshore oil in the Gulf of Mexico. The city prospered with the manufacture and financing of new oil rigs, and oil companies moved their corporate offices into the city’s new high-rise buildings. By the end of that decade, energy production (including oil and gas extraction) comprised well over a third of the state’s revenues. After the price of oil crashed in 1981, however, the industry took a downturn and New Orleans, like other oil centres in America, suffered sharp economic losses. Recovery has been slow but steady in recent years and Louisiana now handles more than 60% of the country’s offshore oil production. The city of New Orleans serves as the administrative centre for this industry. Shell is the leading oil and gas exploration and production companies, which also include Chevron USA, Texaco and Exxon Mobil. Shell Chemicals is also the leading petrochemicals manufacturer in the area. The third key industry in New Orleans is tourism, which brings in two billion US Dollars a year – one-quarter of that figure from Mardi Gras alone. New Orleans is also one of the top cities in the country for conventions, with over one million square feet of convention space and upwards of 25,000 hotel rooms. The service industries, such as hotels and restaurants, provide many jobs. JCC Holding Co (Harrah’s Casino) tops the entertainment industry, followed by Jazzland Theme Park and the Treasure Chest Casino. Other industries that contribute to the economy of New Orleans include petrochemical, aerospace, canning and food processing, fishing, timber, sulphur and salt. Lockheed Martin Michoud Space Systems, manufacturer of the external fuel tank for the space shuttle, is one of the city’s largest employers. Folger Coffee Company, Domino Sugar Corporation and Colonial Sugar Refinery are among the largest and most familiar names in food processing. New Orleans is also home to Tulane University, a national research university with associated hospital, clinic and allied health services, which is the city’s second largest employer. The Central Business District (CBD) borders Lee Circle in Downtown New Orleans. However, on the whole, wages in Louisiana are lower than in most other US states. The official unemployment rate is 5.1%, which is quite high, even compared to the weak national average of 6%. According to some estimates, a quarter of the city’s population lives below the poverty level, in contrast to the prosperous white-collar and waterfront businesses. Business Etiquette In general, people in New Orleans cultivate a relaxed, informal atmosphere in keeping with the climate and easy-going lifestyle. Most people still wear business suits, particularly in traditional sectors, such as banking and law, or else ‘business casual’ (without jacket). In New Orleans, as across America, many companies have instituted a casual dress day, usually Friday, where employees can wear jeans or other casual attire to work. With the city’s warm climate, this is an especially popular trend. After hours, only a few top restaurants and hotels require men to wear a jacket and tie but casual-smart is more often de rigueur. Socialising with clients is important as well as networking with industry professionals. Industry and career-specific professional organisations provide networking avenues and many companies host ‘business after hours’ events to encourage meeting like-minded businesspeople. In New Orleans, with its superb cuisine, business is often done over a meal. And restaurants here do not rush their customers! Hosts generally do not invite clients home unless they know them well. Business associates tend to exchange business cards at an appropriate moment, usually towards the end of a meeting. Gifts are not necessary, although small items, such as pens with the company logo are sometimes appropriate. Business hours are typically 0900-1700 Monday to Friday. Lunch is generally taken between 1200 and 1300, or 1230 and 1330. Where alcohol is concerned, it is best to err on the conservative side, until the host’s preferences are known. Many Americans stick to soft drinks at lunchtime, especially in the hot, drowsy days of summer. By and large, people are health conscious and smoking or heavy drinking may be frowned upon in a business environment. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Although New Orleans has plenty of tourist attractions, some of the best sightseeing is done informally. A leisurely stroll through the French Quarter reveals quaint shops, hidden courtyards and beautiful old Creole-style houses with their decorative, cast-iron balconies. A walk in the leafy Garden District leads past stately antebellum mansions. An amble along the riverfront unveils a scene of great barges and paddle wheelers. Most visitors head first for the historic Downtown area, the French Quarter, also called the Vieux Carré (Old Square). Laid out on a grid, it covers an area of approximately 6 by 12 city blocks. Jackson Square is at its centre; the Upper French Quarter, stretching from here to Canal Street and down to the riverfront, contains the most popular sights. Woldenberg Riverfront Park, with its wooden promenade called Moon Walk, offers beautiful views of the Mississippi. The Lower French Quarter includes the French Market. Downtown also encompasses the Central Business District (CBD) and the Warehouse District, a renovated area of art galleries and studios, bars and restaurants. To the southwest of the French Quarter is Uptown, where the Garden District is located. Bordering the French Quarter to the east is the Faubourg Marigny, an historic district with a bohemian feel, slowing reviving itself with bars, restaurants, and nightlife spots. Across the river from downtown is Algiers, on the Westbank, another good area for strolling. Tourist Information New Orleans Metropolitan Convention & Visitors Bureau 1520 Sugar Bowl Drive Tel: (504) 566 5011 or (800) 672 6124, toll free in the USA and Canada. Fax: (504) 566 5021. E-mail: internet@neworleanscvb.com Website: www.neworleanscvb.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1700. There is also a Welcome Centre in the French Quarter on Jackson Square, 529 St Ann Street, open daily 0900-1700. Passes There are no formal visitor discount passes, however, visitors will receive a 20% discount on tickets to two or more of the following Louisiana State Museums (website: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us), if purchased at the same time: the Cabildo, Presbytère, Old Mint, 1850 House, Madame John’s Legacy. Key Attractions French Quarter Also known as the Vieux Carré (Old Square), the French Quarter covers a grid of some 98 square blocks stretching back from Decatur Street, which parallels the Mississippi River. Dating from 1718, it is one of the most historic districts in the country, with superb 18th- and 19th-century architecture. Apart from the Ursuline Convent, which dates from 1745, the early French buildings were destroyed in two devastating fires in 1788 and 1794. The handsome buildings erected after this time, with their arches, fanlights and filigreed wrought-iron balconies, are actually Spanish in character. The focal point of the French Quarter is Jackson Square, arguably the loveliest square in America, with its Louis XIV-style garden landscaping and the symmetry of the stately buildings flanking the square – the Pontalba Buildings, St Louis Cathedral, the Cabildo and Presbytère (see below). Artists, tarot card readers, mimes and tourists make for a lively scene. The other famous spot in the French Quarter is just north of Jackson Square – Bourbon Street, famous for its jazz clubs, bars and novelty shops. Other highlights to look out for in the French Quarter include historic tavern Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop and Madame John’s Legacy, a house with unique West Indian architecture and early Creole-colonial home design, dating from 1788. Between Decatur Street and North Rampart Street (north to south) and between Canal Street and Esplanade Avenue (east to west) Transport: Riverfront Streetcar. Old Ursuline Convent 1114 Chartres Street Tel: (504) 529 3040. Opening hours: Guided tours at 1000, 1100, 1300, 1400, 1500 Tues-Fri, 1115, 1300, 1400 Sat and Sun. Admission: US$5. Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop 941 Bourbon Street Tel. (504) 523 0066. Opening hours: Daily 1100-close. Admission: Free. Madame John’s Legacy 632 Dumaine Street Tel. (504) 568 6968. Website: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700. Admission: US$3. Cabildo Built between 1795 and 1799, this handsome building takes its name from the Spanish council, or cabildo, which met here in colonial times. It is a fine example of the Spanish colonial style and its wrought-iron balcony railing is arguably the most outstanding work from that period in the city. In 1803, in a room called the Sala Capitular on the second floor, France signed the Louisiana Purchase, which ceded a huge territory west of the Mississippi, including New Orleans, to the United States. Today, the Cabildo houses a museum of Louisiana history. Among the exhibits are the colony’s founding stone and Napoleon Bonaparte’s death mask. Jackson Square Tel: (504) 568 6968. Website: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us Transport: Riverfront Streetcar. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700. Admission: US$5. 1850 House Set in one of the Pontalba Buildings – the twin rows of mid-19th-century brick townhouses lining opposite sides of Jackson Square – the 1850 House has been restored to depict a typical New Orleans residence of that era. It comprises a central court and rooms on three storeys, which are filled with authentic period furnishings. Of particular note are the decorative cast-iron railings, which superseded the traditional hand-worked wrought iron of the French Quarter. Look for the initials A and P in the design, which signifies the family names of Madame Micaela Almonester de Pontalba, the wealthy heiress who erected the Pontalba Buildings and made other improvements around Jackson Square. 525 St Ann Street Tel: (504) 568 6968. Website: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us Transport: Riverfront Streetcar. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700. Admission: US$3. St Louis Cathedral The simple yet elegant façade of St Louis Cathedral is a focal point of Jackson Square. Named after the former king of France, this is the oldest cathedral in the United States. It is the third church built on this site; the first was destroyed by a hurricane in 1722 and the second by fire in 1788. The present building, dedicated as a cathedral in 1794, was extensively remodelled in 1849-51 to the specifications of architect, J N B de Pouilly. When Pope Paul VI visited in 1964, he designated it a minor basilica. 615 Père Antoine Alley Tel: (504) 523 6479. Website: www.saintlouiscathedral.org Transport: Riverfront Streetcar. Opening hours: Tours Mon-Sat 0900-1630, Sun 1300-1630. Admission: Free. Presbytère Designed in 1791 as a rectory for the priests of St Louis Cathedral, the Presbytère was finally completed in 1813. By then, New Orleans had become part of the United States and the church rented the building to the city for use as a courthouse; it was then sold to the city in 1853. Today, the landmark property houses part of the Louisiana State Museum, with exhibits on the city, its residents, local art and decorative arts. The highlight is the extensive range of Mardi Gras memorabilia, from masks and costumes to videos and interactive displays about the history of the event. 751 Chartres Street Tel: (504) 568 6968. Website: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us Transport: Riverfront Streetcar. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700. Admission: US$5. Hermann-Grima House Built in 1831, for Samuel Hermann, a wealthy merchant, and later sold to attorney Felix Grima, this Federal-style house is among the best examples of American architecture in the Vieux Carré. The highlight is the Creole kitchen, where cooking demonstrations take place over the open hearth, all day on Thursdays from October to May. There is also a restored stable and period rooms. 820 St Louis Street Tel: (504) 525 5661. Website: www.gnofn.org Transport: St Charles Streetcar; Riverfront Streetcar; bus 3. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1530. Admission: US$10. New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum Haitian slaves brought voodoo to the New World and it still thrives in New Orleans, in both legend and as a religious practice. This museum is the only one of its kind in the United States, with serious information and displays on the history of voodoo and a large, spooky collection of associated artefacts, such as voodoo dolls, charms and potions. It also arranges voodoo tours, which leave nightly at 2000. 724 Dumaine Street Tel: (504) 523 7685. Website: www.voodoomuseum.com Transport: Riverfront Streetcar; bus 3. Opening hours: Daily 1000-2000. Admission: US$7; US$16 (tours). Old US Mint Completed in 1839, the Old US Mint manufactured Confederate money during the Civil War and continued to mint US coins until 1909. Its thick walls also served as a prison when Union troops captured the city. Today, as part of the Louisiana State Museum, it houses the excellent New Orleans Jazz Collection, which features music, artefacts and instruments, such as Louis Armstrong’s first trumpet. Also here are the archives of the Louisiana Historical Center and exhibits on the Mardi Gras festival. 400 Esplanade Avenue Tel: (504) 568 6968. Website: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us Transport: Riverfront Streetcar. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700. Admission: US$5. French Market Running for several blocks along Decatur and North Peters Streets, the French Market is one of the most colourful spots in the city. It dates back to colonial times, when a Native American trading post operated here, and was a busy open-air market during the Spanish and French eras. Renovated buildings, such as the Butchers Market (1813), now house cafés, shops and offices, while street performers give the outdoor areas a festive feel. The large covered sheds, built in 1936 as a public works project, house the Farmer’s Market, where fresh produce is sold, and the Flea Market, with an assortment of clothes, jewellery, hot sauces and other New Orleans souvenirs. Along Decatur and North Peters Streets Transport: Riverfront Streetcar. Opening hours: Daily 0700-1900. Admission: Free. Garden District Stretching from St Charles Avenue to Magazine Street and between Louisiana and Jackson Avenues, the Garden District is an elegant National Historic District of antebellum homes. Originally a separate city called Lafayette, which was annexed by New Orleans in 1852, the Garden District was first laid out in the 1820s and was settled by wealthy American businessmen. The handsome Greek Revival mansions are still private residences and are not open to the public. But a daytime stroll through this district of leafy streets and impressive architecture is very rewarding. One of the grandest homes is the Robinson House, 1415 Third Street, which resembles an Italian villa and was possibly the first house in the city to have indoor plumbing. Author Anne Rice’s home, Rosegate, is at the corner of First Street and Chestnut Street. In the centre of the Garden District is the Lafayette Cemetery with its ornate vaults and tombs, which featured in the film Interview with the Vampire (1994). It is best visited as part of a group on a walking tour (see Tours of the City). St Charles Avenue to Magazine Street and between Louisiana and Jackson avenues Transport: St Charles Streetcar. Audubon Park and Zoo Covering some 160 hectares (400 acres) and harbouring more than 4000 oak trees, Audubon Park is one of the largest city parks in the country. It was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, creator of New York’s famous Central Park, and named after the painter and ornithologist John James Audubon. Apart from the walking and biking trails, play areas, picnic spots, riding stables, tennis courts and golf course, the highlight of the park is the Audubon Zoo, one of the nation’s best. Among its zoological exhibits are sections devoted to the Louisiana Swamp – visitors should not miss alligator feeding time – and a tree house for viewing monkeys close up. A cruise boat leaves Audubon Landing for an 11km (seven-mile) river ride to the French Quarter and Canal Street, daily at 1100, 1300, 1500 and 1700. The cruise costs US$14.50. 6500 Magazine Street Tel: (504) 581 4629. Website: www.auduboninstitute.org Transport: St Charles Streetcar; bus 11. Opening hours: Park open from dawn to dusk; zoo open daily 0930-1700 (winter); Mon-Fri 0930-1700, Sat-Sun 0930-1800 (summer). Admission: Free (park); US$9 (zoo). New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA) This excellent museum is situated near the lake off Esplanade Avenue in City Park. Major travelling exhibitions and rotating exhibits from the museum’s large art collection are displayed on the ground floor. Highlights of the permanent exhibits on the upper two floors include the pre-Columbian collection, Native American art, the Asian wing, American and European paintings, and one of the largest glass collections in the country. There is also an attractive sculpture garden. City Park, 1 Collins Diboll Circle Tel: (504) 488 2631. Website: www.noma.org Transport: Bus 48. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Admission: US$6. Further Distractions Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World Blaine Kern has long been the king of the artists who create the stupendous Mardi Gras parade floats. Here, visitors can watch the floats being built on a tour of the facility, often conducted by Kern himself. A Mardi Gras film, photographs, carnival souvenirs and costumes for children to try on complete the experience. 233 Newton Street, across the river at Algiers Point Tel: (504) 361 7821. Website: www.mardigrasworld.com Transport: Free shuttle meets the Canal Street ferry to take visitors to the site. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1630; variable during Mardi Gras. Admission: US$13.50. St Louis Cemetery No 1 New Orleans is famous for its above-ground cemeteries or ‘Cities of the Dead’. Because the high water table made underground burial difficult, people built ornate marble tombs and vaults, decorated with statuary, mosaics, wrought-iron and other ornamentation, above ground. St Louis Cemetery No 1, just above the French Quarter, dates back to 1789 and is the oldest of the city’s many such burial grounds. It is also one of the most atmospheric, with crumbling tombs and the graves of some of the city’s historic personages, including the voodoo queen Marie Laveau. The cemeteries are vast, not patrolled and can attract crime, so tourists should visit them as part of a guided tour (see Tours of the City). Basin Street between Conti and St Louis Streets Transport: Bus 57. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1500. Admission: Free. Tours of the City Walking Tours There are numerous walking tours available, covering different themes on life in the Big Easy. One of the best options is Historic New Orleans Walking Tours (tel: (504) 947 2120; website: www.tourneworleans.com), often led by knowledgeable local author Robert Florence. Tours include a Cemetery Voodoo Tour and Haunted Tour, as well as architectural and historical tours of the French Quarter or Garden District. The tours cost between US$12 and US$15 and take approximately two hours. Departure points vary depending on the tour – the French Quarter tour departs daily 1030 from Decatur Café Beignet, 1031 Decatur Street, while the Haunted Tour sets off at 1930 from O’Flaherty’s Pub, 508 Toulouse Street. Walkers should check the website for details and arrive 15 minutes before departure time – reservations are not necessary. Voodoo Tours are also run by the New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum (see Key Attractions). Free history tours (limited to 25 persons) of the French Quarter leave daily at 0930 from the Folklife and Visitor Center of the Jean Lafitte National Park, 419 Decatur Street (tel: (504) 589 2636). Tickets are distributed on a first-come first-served basis, from 0900. The tour covers approximately two kilometres (one mile). Friends of the Cabildo (tel: (504) 523 3939; website: www.gnofn.org/~fcabildo) operates a volunteer guide scheme for their two-hour historic tours of the French Quarter. Tours cost US$10 and depart from 1850 House Museum Store, 523 St Ann Street, on Jackson Square. Le Monde Creole French Quarter Tours (tel: (504) 568 1801; e-mail: creolwrld@aol.com; website: www.lemondecreole.com) concentrates on the Creole history of the city in their US$17.50 two-hour tour, which departs from 624 Royal Street, Tuesday-Saturday 1030 and 1330 and Sunday 1000 and 1330. Gay Heritage Tour (tel: (504) 945 6789) looks at another notable part of the history of New Orleans, with a two-and-a-half-hour walking tour costing US$20. Tours are held Wednesday and Saturday at 1300 and depart from 909 Bourbon Street. Tours focusing on the city’s rich African-American history and culture are run Le Ob’s Tours, 4635 Touro Street (tel. (504) 288 3478; e-mail: leobstours@aol.com; website: http://leobstours.tripod.com/home.html). Themes range from Black Heritage and Plantation Tours to Jazz and Voodoo Tours. Tours generally take three and a half hours and cost around US$45 (group rates are available and reservation is essential). Le Ob’s arranges pick up from major hotels in the central business district and the French Quarter. Bus Tours The French Quarter is not really suited to bus tours, however, several companies offer tours of the rest of the city and beyond. Gray Line (tel: (504) 569 1401; website: www.graylineno.com) has a range of tour options, covering the city and beyond, generally taking two hours and costing US$18-60. Tours depart from the Gray Line Lighthouse Ticket Office or Information Booth, behind the Jax Brewery in the French Quarter. African-American Heritage Tours (tel: (504) 288 3478) operates a three-and-a-half-hour city tour for US$40, which includes a short cemetery walking tour and snack stop. The departure point is confirmed when reservations are made and the company arranges hotel pick-up, if required. Other Tours City tours by bicycle are offered by the Bienville Foundation (tel: (504) 945 6789) and Laid Back Tours, 625 Hagan Ave (tel: (504) 488 8991; e-mail: info@laidbacktours.com; website: www.laidbacktours.com), who provide daily tours from two hours to a full day. Tours cost from US$25 to US$120, depending on the duration of the tour, size of the group and bicycle chosen (recumbent cycles are offered).Horse-drawn carriages tour the French Quarter and some drivers make great entertainers. It is possible to hail a carriage anywhere but many park and await custom at the south side of Jackson Square. The cost of a tour is approximately US$45 for a 30-minute tour for up to four people. New Orleans Paddlewheel, 610 South Peters (tel. (504) 524 0814; website: www.neworleanspaddlewheels.com), operates several boat tours, departing from the Aquarium of the Americas Dock, South Peters. The Cajun Queen Riverboat runs 90-minute harbour cruises for US$11, while the Creole Queen Paddlewheeler runs a ‘Battlefield Cruise’ to the spot where Andrew Jackson defeated the British, costing US$16-US$22. In the evening, the Creole Queen offers a two-hour dinner and jazz cruise, costing US$47 or US$24 without dinner. The New Orleans Steamboat Company (tel. (504) 586 8777; e-mail: info@neworleanssteamboat.com; website: www.neworleanssteamboat.com) is the other main operator, with two-hour harbour cruises costing US$17-US$23 and a two-hour evening cruise, which offers dinner and jazz, costing US$49 or US$28 without dinner. Tours depart from the French Quarter, Woldenberg Park. Cypress Swamp Tours (tel. (504) 581 4501; website www.cypressswamp.com) leads visitors past a Cajun Fishing Village and estuary on the variety of swamp tours offered. A resident naturalist is available to answer wildlife questions. Tours cost between US$22 and US$69 and take from two hours (for the Swamp Tour) to eight hours (for the City, Swamp and Plantation Tour). Hotel pick-up is arranged. Louisiana Swamp Tours (tel. (888) 307 9267; website: www.louisianaswamp.com) runs two-hour tours of a swamp, on a 60-person boat, pointing out the various reptiles living within. Tours cost US$21 and depart from the dock on Bayou Road, off Highway 301, 37km (23 miles) from the French Quarter, at 0930, 1200 and 1400. Hotel pick-up in New Orleans is arranged for an additional charge of US$11.50 or US$18.50, depending on the hotel’s location. Excursions For a Half Day Destrehan Plantation: Located 37km (23 miles) west of New Orleans, along I-310, the Destrehan Plantation (tel: (504) 764 2341; website: www.destrehanplantation.org) was built in 1787 and remains the oldest intact plantation home in the lower Mississippi. The plantation is open daily from 0900-1600 and admission is US$10. Tours and period crafts demonstrations are led by costumed guides, who praise the house’s excellent insulation, its cavities filled with a mixture of mud, straw, horsehair and Spanish moss known as bousillage. Scenes from Interview with the Vampire (1994) were filmed here. For a Whole Day Barataria Preserve: The Barataria Preserve (tel: (504) 589 2330; website: www.nps.gov/jela) is part of the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park. It is located on the west bank of the Mississippi near Marrero, about an hour’s drive from New Orleans along the Business-90 and Highway-45. The Preserve encompasses approximately 8000 hectares (20,000 acres) of forest, swamp and freshwater marsh. Natural history walks are available daily at 1400. Canoe treks can also be arranged. The visitor centre is open daily 0900-1700. Admission is free. Lafayette: About 200km (130 miles) west along I-10 from New Orleans is Lafayette, the gateway to the Cajun country. The Acadian Cultural Center (tel: (318) 232 0789; website: www.nps.gov/jela) traces the origins and culture of the Cajun people, who were relocated from Nova Scotia, Canada, to the Mississippi Delta in the 18th century, as well as other cultures of the region. There are several attractive Cajun towns and plantations north of Lafayette on the Cajun prairie. The town is also a good base from which to explore the swamps and bayous of the Atchafalaya basin. Sport Much like any other sport-respecting US city, American Football is the standout favourite in New Orleans. The New Orleans Saints NFL football team (tel: (504) 731 1881; website: www.neworleanssaints.com) clinched the NFC West division title in 2000, however, have fell to rivals St Louis and San Francisco in 2001. This year sees the Saints take on Atlanta, Tampa Bay and Arizona in the NFC South division. This much loved team can be found at the 60,000-seater Louisiana Superdome, Sugar Bowl Drive (tel: (504) 733 0255;), which is also the home of the famous Sugar Bowl game (website: www.nokiasugarbowl.com), which concludes the college football season on New Year’s Day. The previous week sees the Sugar Bowl Basketball Tournament, again between the best college teams. These take place at the New Orleans Arena, 1501 Girod Street (tel: (504) 525 8573; website: www.neworleansarena.com), which is adjacent to the Superdome and also hosts tennis, sailing, swimming, track and field facilities and, during the winter, the New Orleans Brass hockey team (tel: (504) 522 7825; website: www.brasshockey.com). The New Orleans Zephyrs play baseball at Zephyr Field, 6000 Airline Highway, Metairie (tel: (504) 282 6777; website: www.zephyrsbaseball.com). To purchase tickets, sports keen visitors should call the venues as early as possible. Hotel concierges are able to help with acquiring last minute tickets. Tickets are also available from Ticketmaster (tel: (504) 522 5555; website: www.ticketmaster.com), which levies a US$2 surcharge per ticket. Fitness centres: Many of the large hotels have their own fitness centres and even some of the smaller ones have exercise rooms. Places that accept guests include Le Meridien New Orleans, 614 Canal Street (tel: (504) 525 6500), at US$12 per day, and the Hilton Riverside, 2 Poydras Street (tel: (504) 561 0500), at US$12 per day, which also covers its putting and driving range, tennis, squash and racquetball courts. Golf: There are at least two dozen public and private courses in the New Orleans area. The English Turn Country Club, One Clubhouse Drive (tel: (504) 391 8019), has a course designed by Jack Nicklaus and hosts the PGA’s Entergy Classic each April. Fees are around US$150. Non-members must be accompanied by a guest or have their reservation made by their own club’s golf pro. The closest public course to downtown is the 18-hole Audubon Golf Club, 473 Walnut Street (tel: (504) 865 8260). Fees are US$9 weekends, US$12 weekdays. There is also a course in City Park (tel: (504) 483 9397). Horseracing: The Fair Grounds Race Track, 1751 Gentilly Boulevard (tel: (504) 944 5515), is the third-oldest in the USA, first opened in 1872. It hosts races from November to March, Wednesday-Sunday at 1330. Tennis: There is a Tennis Center in the City Park (tel: (504) 483 9383) and courts in Audubon Park (tel: (504) 895 1042) but otherwise courts are private. Shopping The French Quarter is one of the main shopping areas, with plenty of unique craft shops, galleries and other stores. The Central Business District (CBD) and Uptown are also good shopping centres. Lots of the souvenirs are based around the city’s unique Mardi Gras, with masks, costumes, dolls, photos, paintings and other artefacts. Voodoo items also make rather unusual gifts. For more tasteful items, there are the many antique shops on Royal and Magazine Streets. Jackson Brewery – Millhouse is a large mall on the waterfront in the French Quarter. Other shopping centres include Riverwalk Marketplace, The Esplanade, New Orleans Shopping Center, Bank One Center and Lakeside Shopping Center. Tax-free shopping is available at the Tanger Outlet Center and Louisiana Tax Free Shopping Center. Running for several blocks along Decatur and North Peters Streets, the French Market, open daily 0700-1900, is one of the most colourful spots in the city (see Key Attractions). The large covered sheds, built in 1936 as a public works project, house the Farmer’s Market, where fresh produce is sold, and the Flea Market, with an assortment of clothes, jewellery, hot sauces and other New Orleans souvenirs. French Quarter shops have the longest hours of operation, from about 1000-2200, except Sunday, when all shops close at approximately 1700. General shopping hours in the city are 1000-1700. New Orleans’ sales tax is 10%. The state sales tax is only 9% and refunds for that percentage of the price of goods purchased in tax-free stores are available to overseas visitors at the international airport’s LTFS (Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping) Refund Centre. The LTFS voucher and the sales receipt from the store are required, as well as passport and international air ticket. Refunds under US$500 are paid in cash, otherwise a cheque will be put in the post. Culture New Orleans is one of the most ‘European’ cities in America, drawing cultural influences from its early Spanish and French settlers – the Creole – and French migrants, exiled from Nova Scotia in the 18th century – the Cajuns. Further cultural layers are revealed in the Indian and African influences, Dixieland jazz and the rich and terrifying legacy of Voodoo, brought to the city by Haitian slaves. Being such a melting pot of cultures and styles, New Orleans is naturally rich in cultural ore. The biggest cultural event in New Orleans is the annual Mardi Gras, celebrated here like nowhere else on earth. Given that the French Quarter is like an ongoing outdoor party any time of year, one can only imagine what it is like when the extravagant floats and costumes are paraded through the streets and the whole world has descended in search of a good time. There are, however, plenty of choices for those in search of more sedate cultural offerings. Tickets are available for purchase from the venues or from Ticketmaster (tel: (504) 522 5555; website: www.ticketmaster.com), which levies a US$2 surcharge per ticket. Listings are available from the daily newspaper, Times-Picayune (website: www.nola.com), the free monthly publication, Offbeat, and free weekly Gambit and the monthly New Orleans Magazine (website: www.neworleansmagazine.com). Inside New Orleans (website: www.insideneworleans) is an up-to-date and savvy Internet site, while Gambit’s affiliated online outfit (website: www.bestofneworleans.com) also posts weekly cultural events and performance. Music: The much-lauded Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra (tel: (504) 523 6530) performs at the Orpheum Theater, 129 University Place, at Common Street, and the New Orleans Opera Association performs at the Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts, 801 North Rampart Street, in Armstrong Park (tel: (504) 565 7470). This theatre, and the Louisiana Superdome, Sugar Bowl Drive (tel: (504) 733 0255), are two of the several venues that stage large-scale concerts. Theatre: Numerous theatres throughout the city offer everything from avant-garde works to the classics, with a healthy amount of Tennessee Williams, of course. The March Tennessee Williams Festival centres on Le Petit Théâtre, 616 St Peter Street, French Quarter (tel: (504) 522 2081), which claims to be the oldest continuously running community theatre in the USA and shows a range of musicals and drama. The Saenger Performing Arts Center, 143 N Rampart (tel: (504) 524 2490), ranges from rock concerts to Broadway musicals. Musicals, plays and multimedia events are also staged at the two-auditorium Contemporary Arts Center, 900 Camp Street (tel: (504) 523 1216). Dance: The New Orleans Ballet performs from September to May at the Mahalia Jackson Theatre of the Performing Arts, 801 North Rampart Street in Armstrong Park (tel: (504) 565 7470). Film: The Big Easy is perennially popular as a movie location and some of the better known films are Easy Rider (1969), JFK (1991), Dead Man Walking (1995) and, of course, The Big Easy (1987). To see these and other movies, there is no shortage of screens. The biggest is the Entergy IMAX Theater, Canal Street (tel: (504) 581 4629). Canal Place Cinemas, 333 Canal Street (tel: (504) 581 5400), shows first-run films, both arthouse and mainstream, while real film buffs will of course want to check what’s on at The Film Buff’s Institute (tel: (504) 865 2152), run during term time at Loyola University. Both The Film Buff’s Institute and Canal Place Cinemas are known for showing independent and arthouse films. Cultural events: There are few months of the year when some cultural event or another is not happening in New Orleans. In late March, when Mardi Gras is safely out of the way, there is the Tennessee Williams – New Orleans Literary Festival and Writers’ Conference, which has expanded from just the work of Tennessee Williams to cover other New Orleans and Southern writers. The New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival takes place at the Fair Grounds in late April/early May, and the Words and Music Festival celebrates the work of one-time New Orleans resident William Faulkner in late September. The Art for Art’s Sake and New Orleans Film and Video Festivals both take place in October, as does The Swamp Festival for those keen on Cajun culture. Literary Notes The first literary note to strike visitors is to see that there really is a streetcar named ‘Desire’, which prompted the title of the 1947 play by Tennessee Williams – who lived much of his adult life in the Big Easy. Pulitzer Prize-winning author William Faulkner wrote his first book, Soldier’s Pay (1926), while living in New Orleans in the 1920s. Another title inspired by the city is Dinner at Antoine’s, the 1948 novel by Frances Parkinson Keyes. It is still possible for one to dine at the restaurant Antoine’s, 713 St Louis Street. Writers Truman Capote (1924-84) and Lillian Hellman (1905-84) were both born in New Orleans, as was the strange and sad writer John Kennedy Toole. Toole committed suicide in 1969, partly because he had been unable to find a publisher for his one great novel, A Confederacy of Dunces, finally published in 1980. The most famous current literary resident is the ‘vampire novelist’, Anne Rice, whose fans come from all over the world to see her city. Her best-known work, Interview with the Vampire (1976), was made into a film in 1994. Her home, Rosegate, is at the corner of First Street and Chestnut Street in the Garden District. The author occasionally leads walks too. Nightlife New Orleans has it all. The most well-known district is the French Quarter, centring on Bourbon Street. This is more a magnet for tourists than for locals and there is everything from strip shows (and more, towards the western end) to bars featuring blues, jazz and Cajun music. Fauborg Marigny (across Esplanade Avenue at the eastern end of the French Quarter) is also a nightlife hotspot, although it is much more tame. Jazz is generally considered to be a New Orleans’ creation and the city is constantly buzzing with music. There are dozens of live venues, as well as numerous jazz trumpeters and other buskers on the streets. Bars and clubs throughout the city are permitted to remain open 24 hours and it is one of the few places in America where alcohol can be consumed on the street provided it is in a plastic container. The legal minimum drinking and gambling age is 21 years and a cocktail will set you back US$4-8. As in most large US cities, the distinction between bars, clubs and live music venues is often blurred. The daily newspaper, Times-Picayune (website: www.nola.com), lists nightlife events – a section on Friday covers the weekend highlights. The monthly publication, Offbeat, and weekly Gambit both are free newspapers with nightlife listings. The monthly New Orleans Magazine (website: www.neworleansmagazine.com) also lists and reviews entertainment in the city. Inside New Orleans (website: www.insideneworleans) is an up-to-date and savvy Internet site, while Gambit’s affiliated online outfit (website: www.bestofneworleans.com) also posts weekly nightlife events. Bars: Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, 941 Bourbon Street, is one of the city’s most atmospheric bars and quite unlike other Bourbon Street bars, lit only by candles. It dates from the 18th century and is said to be the oldest building in use as a bar in America. The Old Absinthe House, 240 Bourbon Street, opened in 1806, may no longer serve absinthe but for an historical artefact it is youthful in atmosphere. The Bombay Club, located in the Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti Street, is for those who prefer a more upmarket venue, with cocktails served in the wood-panelled interior. Pat O’Briens, 718 St Peter Street, is a New Orleans drinking institution and the place to try the famous Hurricane cocktail (rum, orange juice, pineapple juice and grenadine). F&M Patio Bar, 4841 Tchoupitoulas Street, a loud and popular place in Uptown that never closes, frequently sponsors all-nighters and some decent late-night fare. Napoleon House, 500 Chartres Street, is a fantastic French Quarter venue, which has been around since 1914. The eclectic decor has attracted the likes of Nicolas Cage and Matt Dillon. Casinos: Harrah’s New Orleans (website: www.harrahs.com), a massive shopping, dining and gambling complex on the corner of Poydras Street and South Peters Street, offers more than 2900 slot machines and 120 table games. Treasure Chest Casino, 5050 Williams Boulevard, in Kenner, near the airport and Lake Pontchartrain, has about 1000 slot machines, 50 table games and a shuttle service from many Downtown hotels. The minimum gambling age is 21 years and identification may be required. The dress code at these casinos is smart-casual. Clubs: Jazz clubs are a dime a dozen in this city. Funky Butt at Congo Square, 714 North Rampart Street, is a smart club that often hosts well-known local and national jazz acts. Its Art Deco style and split-level interior make it a popular hangout. Palm Court Jazz Café, 1204 Decatur Street, is a traditional New Orleans jazz club with a mahogany bar and good food. Donna’s Bar and Grill, 800 North Rampart Street, is on the northern edge of the French Quarter and is where locals go to eat, drink and to listen to brass band music. Snug Harbor, 626 Frenchmen Street, in the Faubourg Marigny, is run by vocalist Charmaine Neville and pianist Ellis Marsalis (father of Wynton and Branford) and is renowned for its hamburgers. To dance to sounds other than jazz, clubbers head for Ampersand, 1100 Tulane Avenue (website: www.ampersandnola.com), located in a former CBD bank. This is a fairly new club on the scene and fittingly attracts a young financial-industry crowd, with its cocktails and the latest in techno pop and house. Saturday is theme party night with a drink-all-night cover. The French Quarter’s Oz, Bourbon Street (website: www.ozneworleans.com), is the city’s best dance club and attracts a mostly gay clientele. Live music: Ernie K-Doe’s Mother-in-Law Lounge, 1500 North Claiborne Avenue, is a must-see for fans of the singer whose ‘Mother in Law’ was a number one hit in 1961. He plays in this 50s-retro venue on most nights. Tipitina’s, 501 Napoleon Avenue, Uptown, with a French Quarter spin-off at 233 North Peters Street, is another city institution, featuring music from New Orleans and beyond. Come early and queue for entrance to the legendary Preservation Hall, 726 St Peter Street, where guests sit on the floor, if they must, to catch musicians trained in the ‘Louis Armstrong school.’ Storyville District, 125 Bourbon Street, is another top jazz venue – it has several stages, a restaurant and serves a mean jazz brunch. House of Blues, 255 Decatur Street, covers many musical genres, from blues and funk to rock and country. It is now one in a chain of restaurant-clubs, owned in part by comedian Dan Aykroyd, who starred in the film, The Blues Brothers (1980). City Statistics Location: Louisiana, south USA. Country dialling code: 1. Population: 484,674 (city); 1.3 million (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: 67% black, 28% white, 3% Hispanic, 2% Asian. Religion: 60% Roman Catholic, 40% other. Time zone: GMT - 5 hours (GMT - 4 hours from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 110 volts AC, 50Hz; standard two-pin plugs are used. Average January temp: 13ºC (56ºF). Average July temp: 28ºC (83ºF). Annual rainfall: 1450mm (57 inches). Special Events Sugar Bowl, 1 Jan, Louisiana Superdome Battle of New Orleans Anniversary Celebration, Jan, Chalmette National Historic Park Martin Luther King Jr Parade and Commemorative Event, Jan, St Claude Avenue Mardi Gras, late Feb/early Mar, throughout the city, especially French Quarter Black Heritage Festival, second weekend in Mar, throughout the city Tennessee Williams – New Orleans Literary Festival and Writers’ Conference, late Mar, various venues Spring Fiesta, Apr, French Quarter French Quarter Festival, second weekend in Apr, French Quarter New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival (website: www.nojazzfest.com), Apr-May, Fair Grounds Race Course, 1751 Gentilly Boulevard Grand Prix du New Orleans, second weekend in Jun, throughout the city Words and Music Festival, celebration of the work of William Faulkner, late Sep, various venues Swamp Festival, Cajun cultural festival, early Oct, Audubon Zoo and Woldenberg Riverfront Park Art for Art’s Sake, art festival, Oct, various venues New Orleans Film and Video Festivals, Oct, various venues Halloween, last week of Oct, throughout the city New Orleans Christmas, throughout Dec, throughout the city Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$1 33cl bottle of beer: US$3 Financial Times newspaper: US$1.50 36-exposure colour film: US$4.95 City-centre bus ticket: US$1.25 Adult football ticket: US$30-80 Three-course meal with wine/beer: US$18-30 1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.63; C$1.51; A$1.67; €0.93 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.