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USACity Overview Oslo has a spectacular setting at the head of a 110km (70-mile) long fjord. It is the oldest Scandinavian capital, founded by the 11th century Norwegian king, Harald Hådråda, who established it on the site of an earlier Viking settlement, in or around 1050. Following the building of the imposing castle and fortress of Akershus Slott, by Håkon V Magnusson, in the late 13th century, Oslo’s importance grew and it developed into a major trading centre, dealing primarily with Germany and Central Europe. Following numerous lesser conflagrations, the predominantly wooden city burnt to the ground in 1624. King Christian IV rebuilt it on its present site, to the northeast of the castle, and it was renamed Christiania in his honour – a name it kept for 300 years. United with Denmark, from 1380 to 1814, and from then on with Sweden, Norway finally gained independence in 1905 – a date still celebrated with much enthusiasm nearly a century on, every 17 May. The Norwegian capital grew into a major financial, military and administrative centre, by the mid-1800s. The subsequent development of shipping, industry and forestry helped give it the dominant rôle that it still enjoys, in the nation’s economy. The best approach to Oslo is by sea, sailing up the fjord, where shrimpers and small sailing boats jostle with ferries and merchant ships, to where the city sprawls out from its compact centre around the quays to the flanks of the surrounding hills. Although it is not noted for grand architecture, Oslo’s history lives on in medieval buildings like the Akershus Slott, which stands across a park from the austere angular bulk of the 1930s-style Rådhus (City Hall). A highlight is the Slottet (Royal Palace), which elegantly dominates the view west along Karl Johans Gate past the Storting (Parliament). Despite its status within Scandinavia, Oslo gradually faded in international influence, until the discovery of North Sea oil, in recent years. This contributed to its current resurgence, a factor reflected in its bustling docks and lively retail and leisure sector around Aker Brygge, the transformed former warehouse area along the quay. The population of just under half a million is small for a major city, however, with its late-night shopping, crowded cafés, pubs, restaurants and theatres playing to full houses, the city has developed a cosmopolitan feel. However, in this respect, Bergen, its predecessor as the nation’s capital, still has the edge, due to its closer involvement with the international oil industry. Oslo’s climate is surprisingly mild for its latitude. Summer temperatures often hover around 20ºC (68ºF) but in winter, these fall to just below freezing. Winter is dark and gloomy, although there is always snow on the numerous ski trails close to the city. During the long summer days, when the sun drops only briefly below the horizon and it never gets truly dark, the inhabitants spend much of their time outdoors. Summer temperatures are perfect for exploring the parks and hiking paths, or relaxing on the beaches of the fjord. There is nothing that Oslo can do about its dark sub-arctic winters but, in recent years, it has largely shaken off its dull, small-town, parochial image, without losing its air of informality. Recently liberalised drinking laws have helped create a lively nightlife and oil money has provided support for arts and culture, making it a thriving and vibrant city. Getting There By Air Oslo Gardermoen (OSL) Tel: 8155 0250. Fax: 6481 2001. E-mail: passasjerservice@osl.no Website: www.osl.no/english Situated 47km (29 miles) north of Oslo, Gardermoen is Norway’s main international airport. Built in 1998 and designed to cope with up to 17 million passengers each year, it is currently servicing a little under 14 million. Users are wise to allow a little extra time – the layout of the terminal entails quite a lot of walking (running if connections are tight). Major airlines: Scandinavian Airlines System – SAS/Star Alliance (tel: 8100 3300; website: www.scandinavian.net), is the national carrier, with flights to Oslo from several US airports, including New York, Washington, Seattle and Chicago (many via London, Copenhagen or other European hubs) and daily flights from the UK. Oslo is the major domestic hub, with regular flights to 50 Norwegian airports. Braathens (tel: 8152 0000; website: www.braathens.no), SAS and Widerøe (tel: 6711 6000; website: www.wideroe.no) operate daily scheduled domestic services including 35 return flights a day to the major cities of Bergen, Trondheim and Stavanger. Other major carriers include British Airways, KLM, Lufthansa and Icelandair. Airport facilities: These include airport hotels, bank and currency exchange office, ATMs, cafés, bars, restaurants, various shops – including newsagents, a pharmacy and gift shop – and a travel agency. There are also lounges, a VIP lounge, silent room/meditation area, a first aid room and a tourist help desk. Car hire firms with representation in the terminal building are Avis, Europcar, Budget, Hertz and SIXT. Business facilities: Four business lounges are available to passengers of Braathens, SAS, British Airways and their numerous partners. Transport to the city: Flytoget (tel: 8150 0777; website: www.flytoget.no) is the express train from the airport to Oslo S station. The journey time is 19 minutes and departures are every ten minutes. Flytoget operates from the airport between 0545-2434 and from Oslo S station 0445-2405. The fare is NOK140 one way. SAS Transport Service (tel: 2300 2409) operates a bus service from the airport to Oslo centre (journey time – 45 minutes), costing NOK100 one way, or NOK150 return. These are available to serve all departing and arriving flights. Special fixed price airport taxis can be ordered in advance from Oslo Taxi Central (tel: 2323 2323). There are also regular taxi ranks outside the arrivals entrance. The fare to central Oslo starts at NOK475. Sandefjord (Torp) (TRF) Tel: 3342 7000. Fax: 3342 7520. E-mail: info@torp.no Website: www.torp.no Although situated some 118km (74 miles) to the southwest of Oslo, the independently operated Torp airport has grown in importance since closure of the capital’s centrally situated Fornebu Airport, in 1998. It is much smaller than Gardermoen but offers low-cost alternative international routes, as well as some domestic connections. Major airlines: Ryanair (tel: 8200 0720; website www.ryanair.ie) operates services to and from London Stansted, Glasgow Prestwick and Frankfurt Hahn, while KLM (tel: 8100 1200; website: www.klm.com) flies to and from Amsterdam. Widerøe (tel: 6711 6000; website: www.wideroe.no) offers routes from Copenhagen and Stockholm, while CoastAir (tel: 8154 4442) provides a domestic connection to Haugesund. Airport facilities: Torp is small, however, there are shop, bar and cafeteria facilities. Car hire is available from Budget, Hertz, Europcar and Avis. Business facilities: Seeing as Torp is such a small airport, there are no dedicated lounges or business centres. Transport to the city: A coach service, on behalf of Ryanair (see above), links Torp with Oslo’s city centre and serves all incoming and outbound Ryanair flights – buses depart Oslo three hours before flight time. Tickets are NOK110 one way and NOK200 return for Ryanair passengers (journey time – approximately 2 hours). There are regular trains to the capital from Sandefjord station, hourly from 0500-2200 on weekdays. The station is approximately eight kilometres (five miles) from the airport and is reachable by taxi. A journey to Sandefjord station costs approximately NOK130 (journey time – 10 minutes). Approximate flight times to Oslo: From London is 1 hour 45 minutes; from New York is 7 hours 20 minutes; from Los Angeles is 14 hours; from Toronto is 10 hours 25 minutes and from Sydney is 26 hours 35 minutes. Arrival/departure tax: A departure tax of NOK87 from Gardermoen or NOK110 from Torp is included in the ticket. Additional airport taxes may also apply – these are also included in the ticket price. Getting There By Water Oslo Port Authority (tel: 2291 0000; website: www.ohv.oslo.no) operates a large, multi-purpose port facility situated on the Oslofjord, close to the city centre. Terminal facilities are basic and include seating and a cafeteria. However, there are bars and restaurants within walking distance of the DFDS/Stena quay. Ferry services: Color Line (tel: 8100 0811; website: www.colorline.com) operates services to Germany (Kiel) and Denmark (Hirtshals), DFDS Seaways (tel: 2241 9090; website: www.dfdsseaways.com) services Copenhagen via Helsingborg, and Stena Line (tel: 2317 9000; website: www.stenaline.com) sails to Frederikshavn in Denmark. Transport to the city: The Stena/DFDS ferry terminal is very central and taxis are usually waiting outside. Bus 60 runs from here to the city centre. The nearest T Bane station is Nationaltheatret, about 0.5km (0.3 miles) away. Color Line ships dock at Hjortneskaia, about two kilmometres (1.25 miles) to the west. This is served by bus 56. Getting There By Road Driving conditions in and around Oslo are generally pretty good with well-maintained roads, some dual carriageway. Elsewhere in Norway, particularly in the mountainous areas, roads are less good and should be used with great care. It is also essential to check that mountain passes are not closed by snow. Major routes are designated by the European ‘E’ prefix – for example, the roads from Oslo to Tronheim are the E3 and E6. Other roads take the ‘R’ (Riksvei) prefix. All roads leading into Oslo have toll booths. Speed limits on roads outside town vary between 80 and 100kph (50-60mph) and, in urban areas, are set at 50kph (30mph). Some residential streets are designated with a 30kph (19mph) limit and are often equipped with vicious unmarked speed-humps – drivers should proceed with care. Additionally, away from ‘priority’ routes – designated by yellow diamond signs – drivers should beware of vehicles suddenly pulling out from side turns on the right – they officially have right of way and fault falls on the driver who hits them. Traffic drives on the right. The minimum age for driving is 18 years and drivers must be in possession of full national driving licence or an International Driving Permit. Licences must be carried at all times when driving. If bringing a vehicle into Norway, registration documents and a valid certificate of insurance is required. A Green Card, while not compulsory, is desirable. The wearing of seatbelts is compulsory as is driving with dipped headlights at all times. Children under 12 years must travel in the back of the car. Drink driving is severely dealt with – short prison sentences are common – and the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.05%. NAF – Norges Automobil-forbund or Norwegian Automobile Association (tel: 2234 1400; website: www.naf.no) provides further information and offers reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in many other countries. Emergency breakdown service: NAF 8100 0505 Routes to the city: The main highways into Oslo are the E6 from Lillehammer, Trondheim and the north, the E16 from Bergen in the west and the E18 from Stockholm in the east and on to Stavanger in the west. The new bridge between Sweden and Denmark makes it possible for travellers to drive from Norway to Denmark without using a ferry. Approximate driving times to Oslo: From Lillehammer – 2 hours; Copenhagen – 6 hours 30 minutes; Bergen – 6 hours 45 minutes; Stavanger – 7 hours; Trondheim 6 hours; Stockholm – 7 hours. Coach services: The bus station, Bussterminalen (tel: 2217 0166), Schweigaards gate 8, is located under the Galleriet shopping centre, behind Oslo S station. Nor-Way Bussekspress (tel: 2217 5290; website: www.nor-way.no) operates a network of domestic and international long-distance routes and tickets are available for purchase at the station or on the bus. Destinations include larger Norwegian towns and European destinations such as Copenhagen, Stockholm, Warsaw, Berlin and Hamburg. Getting There By Rail Norges Statsbaner – NSB (tel: 8150 0888; website: www.nsb.no) is the national rail provider, operating the local and long-distance services from Oslo. Norweigan trains are clean and often punctual. Buffet car service is minimal, so travellers are advised to bring their own food and drink if embarking on a lengthy trip. Speeeds are slow, due to difficult terrain. Oslo S station or Oslo Central (tel: 2217 1400), located on Jerbanetorvet, is the terminus for long-distance routes. Facilities such as cafés, a bar and shops are available at this station. Local commuter trains operate both from here and the Nationaltheatret T Bane station, located at Karl Johans gate. Rail services: The Dovre Line connects Oslo with Trondheim (journey time – 6.5-8 hours). The Bergen Line goes from Oslo to Bergen, along Northern Europe’s highest railway (journey time – 6.5-8 hours), while the Southern Line runs from Oslo to Stavanger (journey time – 7.5-9 hours), along the south coast. Trains to Copenhagen (via Gothenburg) leave three times daily. From there, it is possible for travellers to get a train to London via the ferry from Ostend, Belgium. Trains also run to Hamburg and direct to Stockholm (journey time – 7-8 hours). Transport to the city: Both Oslo S station and Nationaltheatret are centrally located. They are both situated on the T Bane. Trams and taxis are available outside. Getting Around Public Transport Oslo has a comprehensive and efficient public transport network of trains, buses, trams, ferries and an underground, mostly operated by Oslo Sporveier (tel: 2208 4111; fax: 2208 4112; e-mail: kundesenter@sporveien.no; website: www.sporveien.no). Trafikanten, Jerbanetorvet 1 (tel: 177, 0700-2300 Monday-Friday, 0800-2300 Saturday and Sunday; website www.trafikanten.no), is a one-stop shop for information on all public transport in and around Oslo. The office is open 0700-2000 Monday-Friday and 0800-1800 Saturday and Sunday. Public transport runs 0530-2400, with additional night services on certain routes at the weekends. Some 50 separate bus lines and eight different tram lines cover the city. These can be boarded opposite Oslo S station on Jerbanetorvet, with tickets available from the driver. The Oslo T Bane consists of five underground lines. Tickets are available from vending machines at the various stations. The entire public transport network is detailed on a free map, which is available from Trafikanten, all post offices and most stations. Bygdøyfergene Skibs A/S (tel: 2220 0715) operates seasonal ferries (April-September) from City Hall to Bygdøy, where most museums are situated. Other small ferries operate from Vippetangen, just behind Akershus Slott, to all the harbour basin islands. Tickets for single journeys cost NOK22 irrespective of the mode of transport. Various passes are available, including a Flexikort, costing NOK135, which lasts for ten trips. A Dagskort allows unlimited travel in a 24-hour period, for NOK50. These available for purchase on the tram or bus, at the Metro and railway stations or participating kiosks and must be stamped in the machine provided, prior to travelling. Taxis Taxi ranks can be found throughout the city, mainly near the shopping centre, city squares and outside Oslo S station. When it is very busy or late at night, long waits may be experienced at ranks. All cabs are controlled from a central office (tel: 02323, website: www.oslotaxi.no), through which advance bookings can be made any time, from 20 minutes to 24 hours in advance. However, in peak travel periods, taxis may take up to 30 minutes to arrive. Hailing on the streets is possible, although not within 100 metres (110 yards) of a registered taxi rank. If the light is on, the taxi is available for hire. Initial charges start at NOK65, with each subsequent kilometre being metered at NOK10-12. Rates are higher during peak times, at nights and on weekends. Generally, it is considerably less expensive to pick up a cab at a rank or hail it on the street than to order one by telephone. Tipping is commonly around 10% of the fare. Limousines Providers include Oslo Limousinservice (tel: 2215 1141; e-mail: oslolimousin@online.no; website: www.oslolimousin.no) and Bislet Limousin/Carey International (tel: 2280 2520; fax: 2280 2521; e-mail: office@bisletlimousine.no; website: www.bisletlimousine.no). Hire rates for stretch limos with seating for nine people start from about NOK4000 per day. Driving in the City Driving in Oslo is fairly straightforward. However, the city is relatively small and has an excellent public transport system, so a car is really unnecessary, unless longer trips are planned. Rush hours (0700-0900 and 1500-1800) are best avoided and navigating can be difficult, as there is a complicated one-way system. The Stor Olso map, available from petrol stations, should help, if studied carefully in advance. Another plus point for public transport is that parking is a nightmare in Oslo, with many places having a one-hour maximum stay. Illegal parking or overstaying the allotted time is dealt with severely – fines start at NOK500. Once a parking spot has been found, a ticket must be obtained from the on-street ticket machine and displayed in the vehicle windshield. Controlled city centre street parking spots are free to Oslo Card holders (see Sightseeing). There are 24-hour car parks at C J Hambros Plass, Prinsens gate, Chr. Krohgsgate, Oslo Plaza, Asker Stasjon and Skøyen Stasjon. Parking prices vary considerably according to location. The Oslo S multi-storey charges NOK13 for 25 minutes, with a maximum of NOK124 for a full day. On-street parking can cost up to NOK10 for ten minutes at peak times. Car Hire The major car hire providers are Avis, Munkedamsveien (tel: 2323 9200; website: www.avis.no), Budget, Clarion Hotel Royal Christiania (tel: 2217 1060; website: www.budget.no), and Hertz, Oslo Sentral Stasjon (tel: 6716 8000; website: www.hertz.no). The minimum age for hiring a car is 21 years and a credit card will be required as a deposit. The driver must have a national drivers licence (in Roman script), which he/she has held for a minimum of one year. Insurance is mandatory and tends to be included in the cost of the hire. Rates start from approximately NOK500 per day. Bicycle Hire Information about cycling can be obtained from Syklistenes, Landsforening, Storgata 23c (tel: 2247 3030). Bicycles can be rented from Ski og Sykkelstasjon, Middelthunsgate 21 (tel: 2260 4604), and A/S Ski Service, Voksenkollen Stasjon (tel: 2213 9504). Rates are from between NOK150 and NOK200 per day, depending on the model. Business Business Profile Norway’s main industry is oil and gas, which accounts for some 22% of the GDP and makes the country the world’s third largest oil exporter and one of the five biggest gas producers. Fish is the next major export with lots of untapped coastal potential and a rapidly expanding aquaculture industry. Agriculture, although heavily subsidised, accounts for only 2% of the GDP. Tine, a dairy co-operative, and Felleskjøpet, a similarly organised arable produce distributor, market much of the nation’s agricultural production. The Norwegian merchant fleet is the third largest in the world and supports shipbuilding and ancillary industries, including brokering, insurance and offshore facilities. Business are mostly located in the central area, although there are clusters scattered all over the city, particularly westwards along the port and seafront. There are few companies that would be regarded as truly large by international standards and only about 5% have 100 employees or more. The state is closely involved in business and owns in whole or part major companies such as Kreditkassen Bank, Telenor, Statoil and Norsk Hydro. Telenor is the telecommunications giant that was involved in the specification of the GSM standard for mobile phones and, as a result, the first GSM test system was built in Oslo, in 1987. The success in the domestic mobile phone market is evident, with Norway having one of the world’s highest percentage ownership of mobile phones. Nevertheless, the Norwegian government encourages an open economy, welcoming private enterprise and foreign investment. There are 1000 companies under foreign ownership, in the Oslo region, such as the multinational pharmaceutical company, Alpharma Inc, which has its Norwegian headquarters in the capital. One of the main players in the city is Siemens, the German electro-technical company, which supplies equipment for production, transmission, distribution and consumption of electricity, as well as being heavily involved in telecommunications, oil and gas. The economy is strong, with GDP annually increasing by over 3%. As befits the country that developed the original prototype of the mobile phone, there is a superb technological infrastructure with some 80% of employees having access to a computer – a significantly higher figure than elsewhere in Europe and even the USA. Internet access is almost universal in homes as well as in offices. Oslo, with a population of a little under 500,000, about 11% of the total population of Norway, has an unemployment rate of 3.7%, slightly higher than the national average of 3.4%. However, within the Old Town of Oslo, an inner city area with a population of about 22,000 people, the rate of unemployment is almost twice the Oslo average and education levels are exceptionally low, by Norwegian standards. This is a district with high levels of non-Norwegian ethnic residents – Oslo is increasingly experiencing social problems long associated with larger European capitals. Business Etiquette Business visitors should dress conservatively in a smart business suit. It is customary to shake hands with everyone present, on arrival and departure. Punctuality is important. Appointments should be made well in advance and adhered to. If running late, it is important to telephone and explain why. Business cards should be exchanged after the preliminary introductions, after which it is straight down to business. Norwegians are direct and ready to negotiate, with the minimum of small talk. Trust is important and, in negotiation, Norwegians are less likely to indulge in tactical dealing and will be more interested in the facts of the product than in personality or social skills. Visitors should make a fair pitch with room for a little adjustment but not produce an initial offer that could subsequently be seen as a negotiating tactic, as this may be perceived as dishonest. Similarly, expensive gifts should be avoided, as they may be perceived as a bribe. Small items bearing the company logo would be suitable and bringing in the duty-free alcohol allowance would be well appreciated. In a country where the price of alcohol is prohibitive, this action could earn friendship for life. Comments about the high cost of living and cold weather in Norway are often perceived as criticism and Norwegians rarely react positively to humour at the expense of themselves, their country, its system or anyone they perceive to be at any sort of disadvantage. Political correctness is considered desirable. However, they are friendly and informal in personal terms – first names are generally used from the outset. Business hours are normally 0800 to 1600, with employees leaving their offices promptly, to return home for middag (dinner), eaten at around 1700 or 1800. However, an invitation to either dine out or eat at the home of a business colleague will normally be scheduled slightly later. Luncheon is not a Norwegian custom – they take a short break for a snack at around 1100-1130. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview For such a comparatively small city, Oslo is remarkable well supplied with museums and galleries. The compact centre retains much of its medieval layout, amid acres of greenery and parks. Within walking range of the centre, there are pleasant districts through which to browse, enjoying the street life and the shops. The area immediately to the west of the Oslo S station, however, is best avoided after dark. Aker Brygge, at the centre, has a quayside bustle. To the west, on the edges of the Vigeland Sculpture Park, Frogner is dotted with cafés and interesting boutiques. On the eastern edge of town, in Tøyenbadet Park, lies the Munch Museum, which houses the vast collection left to the city by Edvard Munch, as well as the Botanical Gardens and the Tøyenbadet swimming pool complex. The peninsula of Bygdøy, with its fascinating collection of museums and desirable residential areas, is a short ferry ride away from the City Hall. The Rådhus (City Hall), which lies midway between the Royal Palace and Akershus Slott, is a short walk from Oslo Cathedral, the Domkirke, and the nearby market, Stortorvet. It is surrounded by museums and theatres and is a perfect starting point for an exploration of the town centre or for undertaking a cruise on the fjord from nearby Pier 3. Wherever one walks in Oslo, there is another lovely view – a panorama of the fjord or the mountains or the fresh greenery of the parks. It is essentially a comfortable city – easy to walk around and small enough to explore the outer fringes in one day of walking. At the edges of the city, the great outdoors encroaches, with skiing and walking trails a mere 15 minutes’ train ride from the centre. Tourist Information Vestbanen Brynjulf Bulls plass 1 Tel: 2311 7880. Fax: 2283 8150. E-mail: info@oslopro.no Website: www.oslopro.no Opening hours: Daily 0900-2000 (Jul-Aug); Mon-Sat 0900-1700 (May and Sep); Mon-Sat 0900-1600 (Oct-Apr). Another tourist information office, with late opening (Monday-Saturday 0800-2300) is located at Oslo Sentral Stasjon, Jernbanetorget 2. Passes The Oslo Card probably represents the best value for tourists. As well free admission to all the museums, the pass offers unlimited local travel on all forms of transport, free entrance to Tøyenbadet and Frognerbadet swimming pools, free parking in the municipal car parks, a free sightseeing boat tour and many other discounts, such as for cinemas, restaurants or car hire. Cards can be purchased for one, two or three days, at a cost of NOK180, NOK270 and NOK360 respectively (concessions are available) and are available at the Tourist Information office. Key Attractions Akershus Slott and Festning (Akerhus Palace and Fortress) King Haakon V Magnusson ordered the building of Akershus Slott on a commanding headland, in 1299. Although damaged, repaired, fortified and renovated over the centuries, the ancient walls and central medieval tower of this imposing fortified palace still dominate the sea front. Originally separate from Oslo, the town was rebuilt within the fortress walls, after the great fire of 1624. The 17th-century renovations of the castle, with magnificent banqueting halls and reception rooms, lie above dank medieval dungeons and underground passageways. During World War II, the castle was used as a prison for resistance fighters captured by the Nazis. The grounds house Norges Hjemmefront Museet (Resistance Museum), with poignant displays related to the Nazi occupation of Norway. In front of the museum is a memorial to the Norwegian Resistance, located at the place where 42 of its members were executed. Akershuskaien Tel: 2309 3917 (Festning), 2241 2521 (Slott) or 2309 3138 (Norges Hjemmefront Museet). Website: www.osloguide.com Transport: T Bane Stortinget; bus 60; tram 10, 12. Opening hours: Festning open Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat-Sun 1100-1700 (Jun-Aug), Mon-Fri 0900-1600, Sat-Sun 100-1600 (Sep-May); Slott open Mon-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1230-1600 (May-Sep); guided tours of the Festning available daily (Jun-Aug). Admission: Free (Festning); NOK30 (Slott); NOK25 (Hjemmefrontmuseet); concessions available. Oslo Rådhus (Oslo City Hall) On the waterfront overlooking the fjord, this modern twin-towered building opened in 1950, to celebrate the city’s 900th anniversary, dominates but does not particularly enhance the landscape. However, the colourful frescos and murals of the interior, designed by Norwegian artists, redeem the solid exterior. Themes of Norwegian history and culture predominate, depicting daily life and Viking mythology, although references to the war are inescapable in a building long delayed but finally built in the aftermath of World War II. The huge oil painting Administration and Festivity by Henrik Sørensens, in the vast Central Hall, is typical of the determination to establish a worthy location for Oslo’s political administration. This is where the Nobel Peace Prize is presented each December. Rådhusplassen Tel: 2346 1600. Website: www.osloguide.com Transport: T Bane Nationaltheateret; bus 30, 31, 32, 45, 81; tram 10, 15. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1200-1700 (May-Aug); Mon-Sat 0900-1600, Sun 1200-1600 (Sep-Apr). Admission: NOK25; concessions available. Nasjonalgalleriet (National Gallery) Norway’s National Gallery houses a respectable pre-1945 international art collection, including Gauguin, Picasso, Cezanne and El Greco. But the Norwegian collection, with its emphasis on works from the ‘National Romantic’, is undoubtedly the main interest. Several rooms are given over to the work of the great Edvard Munch. There can be few people who view his most famous painting ‘Skrik’ (The Scream), without a shiver of recognition at its portrayal of deep 20th-century angst. Powerful as Munch’s work is, it does not eclipse other Norwegian artists displayed here. The 19th-century Romantic paintings of Dahl, Tidemand and Gude, such as Bridal Voyage in the Hardanger Fjord, depict the spectacular Norwegian landscapes of forest and fjord, while the museum continues to collect modern Norwegian artists. Universitetsgata 13 Tel: 2220 0404. Website: www.museumsnett.no/nasjonalgalleriet Transport: Tram 10, 11 or 17 to Tullinløkka, 13, 15 or 19 to Nationaltheatret; T Bane Nationaltheatret. Opening hours: Mon, Wed and Fri 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2000, Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1100-1600. Admission: Free. Bygdøy The short ferry trip from central Oslo to the peninsula of Bygdøy transports visitors into Norway’s varied maritime past. All the attractions on Bygdøy are within a ten- or 15-minutes walking distance of one another. One of Europe’s biggest open air museums, the Norsk Folkemuseum (Norwegian Folk Museum) is a walk through Norway’s geography and history, featuring a variety of period buildings that have been transported from all over the country. Turf-roofed farms and barns in one section give way to the streets of the Old Town, complete with shop, houses and early petrol station. A five-minutes walk away, the elegant Oseberg, excavated in 1904, dating from about 800, is the finest of the ships at the Vikinkskipshuset (Viking Ship Museum). The museum also contains finds from burial chambers, where two skeletons once lay amid their riches and jewels. The biggest of the ships, the Gokstad, is the best preserved. However, the burial chamber had been looted. The intricate patterns, which scroll and twist all over the ships, the jewellery and the artefacts all testify to the links with the Celtic nations where the Vikings traded and raided. The Norsk Sjøfartsmuseum (Norwegian Maritime Museum) brings home the central part that the sea has played in Norway’s economy, from Vikings to fishing to oil tankers, with magnificent model boats, film footage, artefacts and paintings. Outside, a war memorial recalls the Norwegian sailors who perished in World War II, beside a replica of the Gjøa, the first ship to sail through the North West Passage. Fjord tours aboard a veteran steamship are offered in summer. Nearby, at the Frammuseet, is the 1892 polar vessel, Fram, which Fridtjof Nansen sailed toward the North Pole and Roald Amundsen to the South Pole. The Kon-Tiki Museum houses Thor Heyerdahl’s famous balsa raft, Kon-Tiki, and reed raft, Ra II, as well as other items, including Easter island statues and a stuffed whale shark. Bygdøy peninsula Transport: Ferry 91 from Pier 3 outside the City Hall (May-Sep); bus 30 from Jerbanetorvet to the various individual attractions. Norsk Folkemuseum (Norwegian Folk Museum) Museumsveien 10 Tel: 2212 3700. Website: www.norskfolke.museum.no Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (May-Sep); Mon-Fri 1100-1500, Sat-Sun 1100-1600 (Sep-May). Admission: NOK70 (May-Sep); NOK50 (Sep-May); concessions available. Vikinkskipshuset (Viking Ship Museum) Huk Aveny 35 Tel: 2213 5280. Website: www.ukm.uio.no/vikingskipshuset Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (May to Sep); daily 1100-1600 (Oct to Apr). Admission: NOK40; concessions available. Norsk Sjøfartsmuseum (Norwegian Maritime Museum) Bygdøynesveien 37 Tel: 2411 4150. Website: www.norsk-sjofartsmuseum.no/ Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (mid-May-Sep); Sun-Wed 1030-1600, Thurs 1030-18 (Oct-mid-May). Admission: NOK30. Frammuseet (Fram Museum) Bygdøynes Tel: 2328 2950. Website: www.fram.museum.no Opening hours: Vary between daily 0900-1845 and 1100-1445, according to time of year. Admission: NOK30. Kon-Tiki Museum Bygdøynesveien 36 Tel: 2308 6767. Website: www.kon-tiki.no Opening hours: Daily 0930-1745 (Jun-Aug); daily 1030-1600 (Oct-Mar); daily 1030-1700 (Sep and May). Admission: NOK35. Further Distractions Munch-museet (Munch Museum) The Munch Museum, to the east of the city centre, lies in the broad parklands of Tøyenbadet and Tøyenhagen. The public swimming pool, with saunas and slides, in Tøyenbadet and the Botanical Gardens of Tøyenhagen, with their huge greenhouses, provide varied diversions to complement the Munch experience. The collection of paintings, lithographs, drawings and sculptures donated to the museum by Norway’s famous expressionist, Edvard Munch, reflects the bleakness and angst of the artist’s early life and the contrasting optimism of his later years. Various versions of the famous The Scream and The Sick Child, depicting his dying sister, Sophie, are typical of the raw power of his art, while lighter pieces include colourful gatherings of gypsies, snow scenes and rural landscapes. The museum is never able to display the full collection of more than 20,000 pieces, although changing exhibitions feature on differing aspects of his work. Films about Edvard Munch’s life and art are shown daily at 1300. Tøyengaten 53 Tel: 2324 1400. Fax: 2324 1414. Website: www.munch.museum.no Transport: T Bane Tøyen; bus 20. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (Jun-mid-Sep); Tues-Fri 1000-1600, Sat-Sun 1100-1700 (mid-Sep-May). Admission: NOK60; concessions available. Holmenkollbakken Ski Museum Open all year round, the Holmenkollen Ski Museum covers over 4000 years of the history of skiing. There is a ski simulator and the chance to enjoy views over the capital from the top of the observation tower. Also, a restaurant is located on the hill. Kongeveien 5 Tel: 2292 3200. Website: www.skiforeningen.no/hk Transport: T Bane 1 to Frognerseteren or Holmenkollen. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1600 (Oct-Apr); daily 1000-1700 (May and Sep); daily 0900-2000 (Jun-Aug). Admission: NOK70; concessions available. Tours of the City Walking Tours The Oslo Guide Association (tel: 2242 7020; fax: 2242 2980; e-mail guideservice@online.no; website: www.guideservice.no) have, on their books, around 150 licensed sightseeing guides, speaking 25 different languages. The booking centre, Guideservice, is located at Akershusstranda 35. A two-hour walking tour of the city costs NOK1130. The association also offers tours of specific museums, themed tours and half-day and full-day excursions. Bus and boat tours Båtservice Sightseeing A/S (tel: 2335 6890, fax: 2335 6899, website: www.boatsightseeing.com) offers a comprehensive range of bus and boat tours. These range from a basic 50-minute boat tour (NOK90) on the fjord, departing hourly, 1000-1900 late May-Aug, to the seven-and-a-half-hour ‘Grand Tour’ combined bus and boat tour, costing NOK425. The company also offers a three-hour evening sailing ship cruise in July and August, at a price of NOK295, which includes a shrimp buffet. Departures are from Rådhusbrygge 3, in front of the City Hall. Excursions For a Half Day Vigelandsparken (Vigeland Park): Located on the western outskirts of the city, Vigeland Park is Norway’s most visited attraction, annually welcoming over a million people. It can be reached on foot, from the city centre, along Frognerveien, in less than an hour. However, it is tempting for visitors to linger longer by the cafés and boutiques of the attractive Frogner area. Buses 20, 45 and 81 and trams 12 or 15 provide a quicker link. The Park is a monument to the artist Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943), who spent 40 years creating the sculptures in granite, cast iron and bronze, which now adorn it. From the entry through the huge wrought iron gates, the first sculptures are the bronze figures on either side of the Vigeland bridge. There are 200 works in total – the most famous of which is the Angry Boy, a chubby youngster stamping his foot. Beyond the bridge, the Fountain is a large saucer-shaped pool supported by six giants with water spilling down around them. At the centre of the park, the Monolith is a mass of human bodies, young and old, carved from a single column of granite, 14m (46ft) high. Around it are groups of people relating to one another in various ways – playing, cuddling, comforting or talking. There are many more sculptures to be seen, both in the park and in the Vigeland Museum (tel: 2254 2530; website: www.vigeland.museum.no), where Vigeland’s sketches and plaster originals are on display Tuesday-Sunday 1200-1600 (October-April), Tuesday-Saturday 1000-1800, Sunday 1200-1800 (May-September). Entrance to the museum is NOK40. For a Whole Day Norway in a Nutshell: The ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ excursion by train, boat and bus provides a spectacular glimpse of Norway’s scenery within a day and costs NOK1230. The train departs from Oslo S station at 0811, reaching Myrdal station, at 866m (2841ft), with its snow-covered peaks, sheer rock faces and streams plunging down the abyss. The idea of taking a train down through this terrain is unimaginable, however, in a magnificent feat of engineering, the Flåm Line descends to sea level along around 24km (15 miles) of winding track, precipitous inclines and deep tunnels. From picturesque Flåm, the trip continues by boat to Gudvangen in the innermost reaches of the Sognefjorden, through the narrow passage of the Nærøyfjorden, the narrowest fjord in Europe. The bus to Voss then takes the mountain road, with perilous hairpin bends, through more magnificent mountain scenery, including dramatic waterfalls at Stalheimskleiven. From Voss, the train returns to Oslo at 2213. It would be impossible to get a more comprehensive overview of the Norwegian landscape in one day. There is a second option, priced at NOK1440, which goes via Bergen. Tours are operated by Fjord Tours A/S (tel: 5555 7660; fax: 5531 2060; e-mail: fjordtours@fjordpass.no; website: www.fjord-tours.com). NSB (tel: 8150 0888; website: www.nsb.no) also provides further information and tickets. Sport Norwegians pursue a sporting lifestyle with an almost religious fervour and Oslo is a great place for the outdoor sports enthusiast, with the surrounding forest and fjord areas maintained for leisure pursuits such as hiking and skiing. From Oslo, it is very easy for one to access over 1600km (1000 miles) of cross-country ski tracks and the many ski lifts that facilitate downhill skiing. Skiing is also a popular spectator sport, with tens of thousands gathering to watch the final stages from the world’s oldest ski jump at Holmenkollen, during the annual ski festival in March. With so much enthusiasm for wintersports, it is hardly surprising that Norway is one of the leading countries in the Winter Olympics. In 2002, at Salt Lake City, with 24 medals, the country came third after Germany and the USA and ahead of the next contender, Canada. In 1994, Norway was top of the table on home ground at Lillehammer, with a total of 26 medals. Football is, however, the number one sport in terms of participation, averaging in excess of a quarter of a million active players throughout Norway. But the population is not large enough to support the game via ticket sales, so football survives on income from football pools and the transfer fees from selling their best players abroad. Most of the players in the national team are stars in the English Premier League. Ullevaal Stadium, Sognsveien 75, with a seating capacity of 25,600, is one of Norway’s biggest football stadiums, where the national team plays and where the cup finals are held. Lyn Oslo (tel: 2300 5190; fax: 2300 5191; website: www.lyn.no) and Vålerenga (tel: 2324 7800; website: www.vpn.no), Oslo’s premier league sides, play their home games at Ullevaal. Tickets to virtually all events in Oslo, from concerts to sporting events, are available for purchase at any post office. Tickets can also be ordered from Billett Service (tel: 8153 3133; website: www.billettservice.no), to be picked up at the post office later, or can be mailed to addresses abroad. Cycling: The main cycling club, Syklistenes Landsforening, Storgata 23C (tel: 2241 5080), is the best source of information. Despite the hills, cycling is a way of life in Oslo – one that comes into its own on the outskirts, where there are over 300km (186 miles) of forest roads and paths with special signs for cyclists. The way for cyclists to get there is by T Bane to Frognerseteren, Skullerud or Sognsvann – bikes are allowed on the underground. Fishing: Angling of all kinds is popular in Norway and the Oslofjord area is no exception. Many small companies offer sea-fishing tours from the capital. Licences are required for freshwater fishing. Oslomarkas Fiskeadministrasjon, Kongeveien 5 (tel: 2249 0799), is the prime source of information on all aspects of this sport, in the Oslo region. Fitness centres: Norwegians are frantic about fitness and there are plenty of gyms around, including the luxurious Artesia, Majorstuaveien 36 (tel: 2293 3550; website: www.artesia.no), the scientific Norsk Idrettsmedisinsk Instituut (NIMI), Ullevål, Sognsveien 75 D (tel: 2326 5656; website: www.nimi.no) and the Elixia (website: www.elixia.com) and SATS (website: www.sats.no) chains, offering classes and a wide variety of fitness equipment. The major hotels in Oslo also all offer some level of fitness and gym facilities. Golf: Golf courses abound in the Oslo region. Several of these offer visitors the opportunity to play and fees tend to be moderate, including Oslo Golf Club, Bogstad (tel: 2250 4402), and Groruddalen Golf Club, Tokkeruddalen (tel: 2221 6718). Outside town, the Bærum Golfklubb, Lommedalen (tel: 6756 3085), situated 20km (13 miles) west of the city, is yet another golfing option. Green fees start at approximately NOK250, depending on the course. Skiing: Nordic cross-country skiing is the most popular form of this sport in Norway, although alpine slopes are available. The best first stop for all information regarding skiing in and around Oslo is Skiforeningen (The Ski Society), Kongeveien 5 (tel: 2292 3200; website: www.skiforeningen.no). Several slopes are close to the city centre and can be reached by bus, T Bane or car, such as Wyllerløypa and Tryvanskleiva, with Norefjell, the biggest (a two-hour drive). Skiing instruction is offered by the Tomm Murstad Skiskole and Trines Rennskole, located at various venues around Oslo (tel: 2214 4665; website: www.skiskole.no). Tennis: Tennis is popular in Oslo and there are numerous municipal and members clubs where visitors can book courts. Oslo Tennisklubb, Hyllveien 5 (tel: 2255 6981; website: www.oslotk.no), is one of the oldest clubs in Oslo, recently celebrating its centenary. Njårdhallen Tennis, Sørkedalsveien 106 (tel: 2214 1593), and Holmenkollen Tennisklubb, Bjørnveien 74 (tel: 2214 6773; website: www.holmenkollentk.no), have indoor and outdoor courts, an outdoor swimming pool and an exercise room. Courts are also available at Voldslokka Tennis på Sagene, Stavangergate (tel: 2223 6513). Shopping In Norway, prices of all handcrafted articles are controlled, removing the necessity of shopping around for the best price on traditional items. However, as for most things in Norway, prices are relatively high despite the controls. Some bargains can be found in the less specialised hops, particularly for general goods such as clothing. Star buys include knitted items, pewter, ceramics and glassware, traditional dress and handmade felt boots. The main shopping districts are in Frogner, which is the place for antiques, art galleries and food shops. Majorstuen, from the T Bane station down Bogstadveien to the Royal Palace and Karl Johans gate in the centre, is where shops and department stores of every conceivable description can be found. Aker Brygge, across the water from the Tourist Office at Vestbanen, is Olso’s first big shopping centre. The biggest shopping mall is Oslo City, on Stenersgata, near Oslo S station, while Paleet, Karl Johans gate 39-41, with its marble-lined atrium, is the most ostentatious. Good shops for crafts are Husfliden, Mølergt 4, with its huge selection of handmade goods, including knitwear, pewter, ceramics and national costume, or Norway Designs, Stortings plass 28, which has the largest selection of work from Norwegian folk artists. The Oslo Sweater Shop, SAS Hotel at Tullins gate 5, has one of the best selection of sweaters in the city, while William Schmidt, Karl Johans Gate 41, has been specialising in sweaters and souvenirs since 1853. There is an open-air market, Stortorvet, in the square of the same name, every day around 1000-1600, selling general goods, such as clothing, souvenirs and flowers. Most shops are open 0900-1700, Monday-Wednesday and Friday. Thursday is late opening, until 1900, while early closing is generally at 1500 on Saturday. Shopping centres are open until 2000 on weekdays and 1800 on Saturday. Tax-free shopping is available at some 3000 shops, although a minimum purchase of NOK308 is necessary to qualify. Partial VAT refunds can be claimed at the airport on departure. In Norway, the VAT (locally known as MVA) stands at 24%. Culture Norway’s historic domination by its neighbours, Denmark and Sweden, has created a strong determination to support its indigenous culture in dance and language, as well as encouraging contemporary arts in Norway. As a result, many music and theatre companies are state subsidised, including outreach companies, which present performances in remote communities and schools. The film industry is subsidised and is therefore thriving and award winning. Oslo is well served with theatre, dance and musical productions, which can be found in the monthly tourist information brochure, What’s on in Oslo, listing cultural events in Norwegian. Tickets to virtually all performances in Oslo, from concerts to sporting events, can be purchased at any post office. Tickets can also be ordered from Billet Service (tel: 8103 3133), to be picked up at the post office later or can be mailed to addresses abroad. Music: The Oslo Philharmonic Orchestra presents two concerts weekly (except in July and in the first part of August) in the Konserthuset, Munkedamsveien (tel: 2311 3100), in the centre of the city. The Norwegian Opera, Storgaten 23 (tel: 2331 5000, bookings 8154 4488; website www.operaen.no), also in the centre of town, has daily performances of operas and ballets, from the beginning of September through to May. The Radio Orchestra and the Norwegian Chamber Orchestra present concert series in various venues in the city. The old Aula of the University of Oslo, Karl Johansgate (tel: 2285 7359), has excellent acoustics, making it one of the most sought after venues for musical events. Also popular is Gamle Logen, Grev Wedels Plass (tel: 2233 4470), composer Edvard Grieg’s concert hall, now restored to its original glory. The State Academy of Music, Gydas vei (tel: 2336 7000), presents the most extensive programme of concerts in Oslo, most of which are free, although some are not open to the public. The Oslo Cathedral Choir sings both contemporary and traditional pieces, giving occasional concert performances, as well as participating in services. The Cathedral Choir is the premier church music group, although most churches have choirs, which present choral programmes throughout the year. Theatre: The ornate, hundred-year-old National Theatre of Oslo, Stortings plass 15 (tel: 2200 1600), presents mainly Norwegian plays, including the works of Norway’s most famous writer, Henrik Ibsen, whose statue stands in front of it. It is worth taking the guided tour if there are no performances on. The International Ibsen Stage Festival takes place here every two years. The National Theatre has two stages in this historic building and another in the Torshovteatret, Vogts gate 64, in the east of Oslo, where the company presents more experimental work. The other major company in Oslo is the Norwegian Theatre, Kristian IV’s Gate 8 (tel: 2247 3800), which performs in the second form of the Norwegian language, new Norwegian. Oslo Nye Teater, Rosenkrantzgate (tel: 2234 8680, website: www.oslonye.no), presents a wide variety of genres on its four stages, Hovedscene, Centralteatret, Cafescenen and Dukketeatret (puppet theatre). Dance: In common with much of central Europe, Norway has a strong tradition of folk dance, featuring mazurkas and polkas. In the summer there are twice weekly performances of folk dancing at the Konserthuset, Munkedamsveien (tel: 2311 3100). On Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday in July and August, a traditional ‘Norwegian Evening’ including folk dance, is staged at the Norsk Folkemuseum, on Bygdøy (see Sightseeing). The Norwegian National Ballet performs at home, at the Norwegian Opera, Storgaten 23 (tel: 2331 5000, bookings 8154 4488; website www.operaen.no), and tours extensively, featuring top Norwegian dancers and guest performers from abroad. It presents a varied repertoire, featuring both traditional and contemporary pieces. Film: There are numerous cinemas in Oslo including an Imax Theatre, Holmensgaten 1 (tel: 2311 6600; website: www.imax.no). Films in Norway are shown in the original language with subtitles. Tickets cost NOK60. Alternative and classic films are shown at Cinemateket, Dronningens gate 16 (tel: 2247 4500). Cross My Heart and Hope to Die (1994), directed by Marius Holst, won the Blue Angel prize at the Berlin festival in 1995. Set in Oslo, the film explores adolescent angst and the temptations to evil in everyday life. Norway’s incredible landscapes have featured in a number of films, including Pathfinder (1987), directed by Nils Gaup and nominated for an Oscar in 1988. Cultural events: ULTIMA Oslo Contemporary Music Festival, Tollbugata 28 (tel: 2242 9999), takes place in October, in venues all over Oslo, including the Oslo Concert Hall, Munkedamsveien 14 (tel: 2311 3111; website: www.oslokonserthus.no), the Norwegian State Opera, Storgaten 23 (tel: 8154 4488; website: www.operaen.no), the Old Masonic Hall (Den Gamle Logen), Grev Wedels plass 2 (tel: 2233 5470), Black Box Theatre, Aker Brygge Stranden 3 (tel: 2201 4020; website: www.blackbox.no), Cinematek, Dronningens gate 16 (tel: 2247 4500), and Oslo Cathedral Stortorvet 1. The festival features new works by Norwegian and international composers, presented by the best of Norwegian musicians and a number of international conductors and performers. The Oslo Jazz Festival, based at Tollbugata 28 (tel: 2242 9120), features major international artists and attracts big crowds in August. In recent years, the Norwegian Wood Rock Festival, Frogner Park (tel: 8155 0333), in June, has featured major artists, such as James Taylor, Emmylou Harris, Simple Minds, Bryan Ferry and Bob Dylan. Comprehensive events information is available online (website: www.oslopro.no – see ‘hva sker’). Literary Notes Literature thrives in Norway, although a comparatively small amount of it has been translated into English. Among the best known Norwegian writers who lived and worked in Oslo are Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson, one of the ‘four great ones’ of 19th-century Norwegian literature. He studied at Oslo University and, in 1859, went to work for a short while on Aftenbladet. His popularity came from Trust and Trail (1857) and his early work concentrated on detailed descriptions of Norwegian rural life. He was the first Norwegian writer to be awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1903. His great friend and rival, Henrik Ibsen, never received that honour, although posterity has been kinder to him. Like Bjørnson, he was not a native of Oslo but moved there in 1850, writing two plays, Catilina, a tragedy, and The Burial Mound, in that first year. He had hopes of studying to become a doctor, however, after failing the university entrance examinations in 1851, Ibsen moved to Bergen to work in a small theatre. By 1857, he was back as director of the new Norwegian (Norske) Theatre and then later of the Christiania Theatre. In 1864, Ibsen received an award for foreign travel from the government and travelled abroad for the next 27 years, returning to Norway only for brief visits. In the 1870s, he worked with composer Edward Grieg on the premiere of Peer Gynt (1867). He returned permanently to Norway in 1891 and died in Oslo on 23 May 1906. Knut Hamson was the second Norwegian writer to receive the Nobel Prize, in 1920. Originally from the Central Valley, he moved to Oslo in 1878, where he lived in poverty for a while, before going off to wander the United States of America. His first real success was his novel The Hunger (1890), about a young writer working and starving in Oslo. But it was The Growth of the Soil (1917), an account of how the human world and nature are united in a mystical bond, that won him the Nobel Prize. His later life was shadowed by his support of the Nazis. In contrast, Sigrid Undser, who grew up in Oslo and wrote her early novels there, was a member of the resistance and an outspoken critic of the Nazi regime. Her work was banned by the Nazis and she was forced to flee in exile to America, until the war was over. She was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1928. The latest of Oslo’s writers is Jostein Gaarder, who received the Norwegian Literary Critics award in 1990 for The Solitaire Mystery. But it is his novel, Sophie’s World (1991), translated into 40 languages and subsequently filmed, for which he is best known. Nightlife Nightlife, in the sense most people know it, is a relatively new phenomenon in Norway. For centuries, a strong family culture has prevailed in the country and even now the older generations maintain this. Up to a few decades ago, long, light summer nights had a tendency to keep people out of doors, although more important was a prohibition on alcohol, which was not repealed until 1920. Even then, draconian licensing laws and the fact that the State controlled the sale of all alcohol through the Vinmonopolet (‘wine monopoly’ shops) meant that most people would head home after a meal or a concert. Since the late 1980s, with the relaxation of the drinking laws, it became possible to drink until 0200. Although many pubs and clubs opened to take advantage of the change in legislation, it was not until 1997 that the State Monopoly on alcohol sales was relaxed. Commercial establishments can now buy from independent importers. However, it is still only possible for individuals to buy anything stronger than 5% ABV for home consumption from the Vinmonopolet and there are time restrictions on beer off-sales in other shops. On Sunday, alcohol can only be purchased in licensed bars and restaurants, after midday. The legal drinking age is 18 years for beer and wine and 20 years for spirits. Nevertheless, Oslo has a very fluid scene with places coming and going with an almost clockwork regularity. A publication called What’s On in Oslo has the most comprehensive listing of what is currently available and is free from hotel foyers and tourist offices. One of the main entertainment areas is centred on Rosenkrantz gate, a street teeming with bars, music pubs and great nightspots. This is a good first port of call on an evening out. Many nightclubs are located on and around Karl Johans gate and will cost around NOK80-100 to get in. Oslo nightlife is relaxed and friendly, with neat smart-casual clothing good for everywhere but the most expensive restaurants. Drinking alcohol in Norway is still, however, a prohibitively expensive business – a half-litre of beer will cost up to NOK60 and a 25ml shot of spirit even more – and not to be undertaken lightly. The minimum drinking age is 18 years for beer and wine and 20 years for spirits. Many Norwegians maintain stocks of drink in their homes and there is a thriving home brewing movement. Distilling spirits is illegal, although that doesn’t deter many citizens and there is an active ‘black’ economy in smuggled drink and any number of moonshiners producing ‘hjemmebrent’, a lethal concoction of distilled sugar and yeast. The national drink is Akevitt, a fiery spirit flavoured with herbs. Many Norwegians go out late on Fridays and Saturdays, after a ‘forspiel’ involving drinks at home, so the street atmosphere from 2200 on the weekends can be lively, to say the least. Bars: Decked out in bookshelves and chesterfield chairs, 3 Brødre, Øvre Slottsgate 14, has more of the ambience of a gentleman’s club or library than a pub. But that is what it is. There’s also a piano bar on the second floor. There is also a piano bar on the second floor. The Dubliner, Rådhusgata 28, is a typical ‘Irish’ bar in a foreign city, although a mortgage is needed for just one pint of Guinness. As it is at the Kilkenny Inn, Øvre Slottsgate. Similarly, the Scotsman, Karl Johans gate, is popular with ex-pats and visitors and also offers the adjacent Angus Steakhouse. Jens Jap Pub, Sonja Henies plass 3, is one of several pubs in the Radisson SAS Plaza Hotel, although is not as superior as the Panorama Bar, in the Radisson, as this is high up and has one of the best views of Oslo, particularly at night. Fridtjof’s Pub, Fridtjof Nansens plass 7, has lots of pictures from Norwegian Polar Expeditions and is a cosy place to spend an evening drinking with friends. For pictures of Jack Nicholson, head to the tiny bar called Nichol & Son, Olav V’s gate 1, which also has, Zipper, an American-style bar, with a pool table, in the basement. Headline, Rosenkrantz gate 16, is where to go if you are over 25 and want to hang out with Norwegian TV stars. In summer, there is a choice of open-air bar/restaurants along the quaysides of Aker Brygge, in front of Akershus Festning. But again these tend to stretch the traveller’s budget somewhat. Casinos: There are no Casinos in Oslo, as gambling is illegal in Norway, other than the state-run lottery, football pools and horse-racing schemes, for which tickets can be purchased in newsagents and the ubiquitous ‘kiosker’, small shops selling sweets and soft drinks. Clubs: Rebekka West, Kristian IV’s gate 7, is a big popular nightclub, which hosts different nights as well as live acts. Smuget, Rosenkrantz gate 22, is an enormous and very popular nightclub, with different bars and dancefloors, a restaurant and some live shows. Baronen & Baronessen, Stortings plass 10, is a disco that also serves food and has a separate piano bar. The gay sector is catered for at the London Pub, C J Hambros Plass, and Potpurriet, Øvre Vollgate, while Head On, Rosenkrantz gate 11B, is more student-oriented and plays funk and rap. Live music: Stortorvets Gjæstgiveri, Grensen 1, is a lively traditional jazz joint featuring ragtime and New Orleans-style bands. Galleria, Kristian IV’s Gate 12, features a disco and a live jazz club, while Oslo Spektrum, Sonia Henies Plass 2, is where all the visiting international big names play. Smuget, Rosenkrantz gate 22, is a nightclub favouring live funk and blues performances. City Statistics Location: Norway. Country dialling code: 47. Population: 460,000. Ethnic mix: Predominantly Nordic, increasing numbers of Middle Eastern and Asian immigrants. Religion: 86% Evangelical Lutheran, 11% Islamic and Asian religions, 3% Protestant and Roman Catholic. Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 230 volts AC, 50Hz; two-round-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: - 4.3°C (24.3°F). Average July temp: 16.4°C (61.5°F). Annual rainfall: 1045mm (41 inches). Special Events Nordic World Cup Skiing, 5-9 Mar 2003, Holmenkollen Oslo Church Music Festival, 21-30 Mar, Oslo Domkirke (Oslo Cathedral) Grete Waitz Race, five-kilometre (three-mile) women-only marathon, named after the Norwegian sprinter, 3 May, starts in Frognerparken through city centre to Bislett Stadium Nasjonaldagen (Norwegian National Constitution Day), national holiday with a parade of flag-waving adults and children, led by various bands, to see the Royal Family on the castle balcony, 17 May, Royal Palace Norwegian Wood Rock Festival, outdoor rock festival featuring major international and Norwegian artists, Jun, Frogner Park Oslo Grieg Festival, Jul, Nasjonalgalleriet, city centre Norway Cup, world’s biggest junior football tournament, Jul-Aug, Ekebergsletta Sports Centre Oslo Jazz Festival, Aug, various venues in the city centre Oslo Chamber Music Festival (Oslo Kammermusikkfestival), Aug, various venues in the city centre Oslo Seafood Festival, Aug, Rådhusplassen, city centre Ibsen Festival, Aug-Sep, Nationaltheatret, city centre Oslo Half-Marathon, early Sep, city centre ULTIMA Oslo Contemorary Music Festival, early Oct, various venues in the city centre Lighting the Christmas Tree, huge tree lighting ceremony with music and frivolity, 1 Dec, University Square Nobel Peace Prize Ceremony, the winner is announced at a private ceremony but there are a parade and concert to celebrate, early Dec, Rådhus Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: NOK10 33cl bottle of beer: NOK18 Financial Times newspaper: NOK19 36-exposure colour film: NOK60 City-centre bus ticket: NOK22 Adult football ticket: NOK250-450 Three-course meal with wine/beer: From NOK350 1 Norwegian Kroner (NOK1) = £0.09; US$0.14; C$0.21; A$0.24; €0.13 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.