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AUSCity Overview Situated between the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, just across from Camden, New Jersey, Philadelphia is the largest city in Pennsylvania and the fifth largest city in the USA. Famed as the birthplace of the United States and the nation’s original capital (1790-1800), it was founded in 1682, by the English Quaker, William Penn, who envisioned the colony as a ‘holy experiment’ to create a land of tolerance and religious freedom. Philadelphia flourished as settlers flocked to it, many of them fleeing persecution – Penn named the town after the Greek word for ‘brotherly love’. At the turn of the 19th century, Philadelphia was known as the ‘Workshop of America’, as its cotton mills, textiles manufacturing and steam-powered machinery plants led the country into the Industrial Revolution. Today, manufacturing is on the decline and new high-tech industries, such as medical technology and electrical components, are emerging. Health care is a leading sector, as is medical education (one sixth of America’s doctors train here) and service industries such as tourism, banking, legal and insurance services. Many of the city’s – and the nation’s – most famous sights are preserved in the downtown’s Independence National Historical Park, including the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776. Colonial Philadelphia was also home to the great statesman, Benjamin Franklin, who founded the country’s first hospital, library, fire company and university. Philadelphia has much more to offer than hallowed historical sights. It is also an exciting city of culture and the arts, with a renowned orchestra, world-class museums and some of the country’s leading restaurants. The Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts, which opened in December 2001, is the shining new jewel in the city’s artistic crown. There are over 100 neighbourhoods with a multi-ethnic population that gives the city a vibrant atmosphere, from the bustling Italian market to the African-American festivals, the blues and jazz clubs and the traditional Amish community who sell produce and foodstuffs in Reading Terminal Market. Quintessentially Philly foods, such as cheesesteaks, soft pretzels and hoagies (sandwiches), reflect the range of traditions in the city. Philadelphia is also the gateway for those travelling west into Pennsylvania Dutch Country, north to the ski resorts of the Pocono Mountains and southeast to the Delaware Peninsula and Atlantic Seaboard beaches. Thanks to William Penn, who devised a logical grid pattern for the streets, it is easy to get around Philadelphia. The downtown area is known as Center City. The main thoroughfares of Market Street, running east–west, and Broad Street, running north–south, meet at the central hub of City Hall. Forming four quadrants around City Hall are the Parkway Museums district, the Convention Center district and the Washington Square and Rittenhouse Square districts. Further east are the oldest areas of the city, the Society Hill/Waterfront districts along the Delaware River and the Old City. Local weather can be changeable, with moderate amounts of rain throughout the year. Summers are warm with occasional heat waves. Winters can be cold with periods of snowfall. The William Penn statue on the top of City Hall has always been a beloved symbol of the city and for decades a gentleman’s agreement prevented the construction of any building that would surpass its height. In 1987, the erection of the Liberty One office tower broke the mould and, while Penn still enjoys a supreme view, Philadelphia’s soaring skyline reflects the city’s progressive outlook for the 21st century. Getting There By Air Philadelphia International Airport (PHL) Tel: (215) 937 6937 or (800) 745 4283 for 24-hour flight information. Website: www.phl.org The airport is 13km (eight miles) southwest of the city centre. Its five terminals handle non-stop services to Europe, Canada and the Caribbean, as well as more than 100 US cities. There is also a connecting service to Asia. A new international terminal is scheduled to open in spring 2002. Major airlines: Philadelphia is a hub for US Airways (tel: (800) 428 4322; website: www.usairways.com). Among the 22 other airlines serving the aiport are Air Canada, Air France, Air Jamaica, American Airlines, British Airways, Continental Airlines, Delta Airlines, Lufthansa, Northwest Airlines and United Airlines. Approximate flight times to Philadelphia: From London is 8 hours 20 minutes; from New York is 1 hour; from Los Angeles is 10 hours; from Toronto is 2 hours and from Sydney is 25 hours. Airport facilities: Facilities include restaurants, snack bars, gift shops, duty free, currency exchange, ATMs and medical services. The Philadelphia Marketplace has a wide range of shopping and dining outlets. Language assistance for international travellers is available anywhere in the airport, by calling the Communications Center from any white airport information telephone (tel: (215) 937 6937, from outside the airport – 24 hours) or at the Passenger Assistance Counter located at the exit to US Customs in the terminal A baggage claim area. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz and National. Business facilities: The US Airways Business Centre (tel: (610) 362 4333) offers photocopying, PC and laser printing, fax and document shredding facilities, as well as meeting and conference rooms with speakerphones for up to ten people. Audiovisual equipment, secretarial services and catering are also available. PIA Services/Thomas Cook has fax machines, global link phonecards, a public notary and other business services, with locations in terminals A, C and D. There are self-service postal centres in terminals A and C, as well as Federal Express drop boxes in terminals A, C and E. Mailboxes Etc, on the walkway between terminal A and B, also offers postal services. There are also several airline executive lounges. Arrival/departure tax: Included in the price of the ticket. Transport to the city: The cheapest way to reach the city centre is SEPTA’s Airport Rail Line (tel: (215) 580 7800; website: www.septa.org), running every 30 minutes to four city centre rail stations –University City, 30th Street, Suburban station and Market East. The service operates 0525-2325 daily, costing US$5.50 one way (journey time – approximately 20 minutes). The train stops at all airport terminals. SEPTA bus routes 37 and 108 also take travellers to the downtown area or Center City. The fare is US$2. A taxi fare from the airport to Center City is approximately US$20 (journey time – 25 minutes). The airport's Ground Transportation Hotline (tel: (215) 937 6958) provides further information on transport to and from Philadelphia International Airport. Getting There By Water RiverLink (tel: (215) 925 LINK (925 5465), web site: www.drpa.org) runs a seasonal passenger ferry service from Camden (New Jersey), next to the New Jersey State Aquarium, to Penn’s Landing. Ferries run hourly and cost $5 roundtrip. Getting There By Road Road travel in Pennsylvania is excellent, with good state roads connecting Philadelphia, Scranton, Harrisburg and Pittsburgh, as well as outside destinations, such as Niagara Falls and Washington, DC. The general rule for numbering on US freeways and interstates is that the odd numbers go north–south and the even numbers go east–west over their whole length, although at any single, localised point this may seem different. Driving in the United States is on the right. For UK nationals, a full UK driving licence is sufficient. Other nationalities are required to have an International Driving Permit, accompanied by a full driving licence from their home country. Drivers are required to have third party liability insurance, however, collision damage insurance is advised, as costs can be very high in the USA. The minimum driving age is 16 years. Speed limits are generally 48kph (30mph) in town, 88kph (55mph) on highways and 105kph (65mph) on the interstate highways, unless otherwise posted. The wearing of seatbelts by persons in the front seat and children under 11 years of age is mandatory by law. Children under four years of age must be protected in car seats. Pennsylvania has strict drink driving laws and driving while intoxicated is cause for arrest and a criminal charge. The minimum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.10%. The local chapter of the American Automobile Association – AAA (tel: (800) 222 1333; website www.aaa.com) is AAA MidAtlantic (tel: (215) 864 5000), who provides information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries. Another club is Keystone Automobile Club, 2040 Market Street (tel: (215) 864 5000). Emergency breakdown service: AAA (800) AAA HELP or 222 4357 Routes to the city: The Pennsylvania Turnpike (Interstate 76) is a toll road providing swift and efficient travel across the state, from New Jersey to Ohio. It leads into Philadelphia from the east and the west. The interstate highway I-95, also known as the Delaware Expressway, connects Philadelphia to Baltimore, Maryland and Washington DC in the south and to New York City and Boston in the north. The I-95 connects with the I-87, which runs north to Montreal. Driving times to Philadelphia: From New York City – 2 hours; Baltimore – 2 hours; Washington, DC – 3 hours; Boston – 6 hours; Montreal – 9 hours. Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (800) 231 2222 or 229 9424; website: www.greyhound.com) provides bus services to and from Philadelphia. The main terminal, the Greyhound Terminal, is located 1001 Filbert Street (tel: (215) 931 4075). Facilities are basic – toilets and a snack bar. There are buses to and from all parts of the country, including transcontinental services via Chicago (Illinois) and St Louis (Missouri). Getting There By Rail Amtrak (tel: (215) 349 2152 or (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) is America's national railway. Amtrak’s reputation and levels of service continue to grow with the introduction of new trains and high speed services on the Eastern seaboard. Increasingly, these Eastern services are becoming a viable alternative to the airlines on the sorter routes, such as to Boston and New York. The monumental Amtrak 30th Street station, 30th Street and Market Street (tel: (215) 349 3147), is across the Schuylkill River in the university district. Facilities at the station include rail information, checked baggage service, public toilets, payphones, snack bars and car hire from National and Budget. For national rail enquiries, visitors should call the toll-free information line (tel: (800) USA RAIL). Rail services: Philadelphia is a major hub on the northeast corridor between Boston (Massachusetts) and Washington, DC. It is served by regularly scheduled local trains and Metroliners from New York City (journey time – 1 hour 10 minutes), Baltimore (journey time – 1 hour), Washington, DC (journey time – 1 hour 40 minutes) and Boston (journey time – 5 hours). ACELA, Amtrak’s high-speed train, provides services to Boston, New York and Washington, DC. Long-distance trains also connect to southern and western destinations in the USA. Transport to the city: From the station, it is five minutes into the city centre by taxi or public transport, which includes SEPTA’s regional trains, Market–Frankford subway line and five streetcar routes. Getting Around Public Transport Philadelphia is easy to navigate, thanks to Southeastern Pennsylvania Transit Authority – SEPTA (tel: (215) 580 7800; website: www.septa.org), who operate interconnecting buses, streetcars, subway and commuter trains. Operating hours for these services vary and some bus routes operate all night. Fares on most routes are US$2.00 (exact change is required) and tickets are available for purchase from ticket offices and machines at the station or upon boarding. Token discount packs are also available. All SEPTA’s buses are lift-equipped for wheelchair access. SEPTA’s day pass is good for a full day of unlimited travel on all modes of transport, plus a one-way trip on the Airport Rail Line (R1). It costs US$5.50 and is sold at the visitor centre at 16th Street and JFK Boulevard. Weekly and monthly passes are also available for US$18.75 and US$70 respectively. The purple Phlash (tel: (215) 4 PHLASH or 474 5274; website: www.phillyphlash.com) shuttle bus runs a continuous loop around the city centre to the major attractions, from the Art Museum to Penn’s Landing. Buses stop every ten-15 minutes, at the special Phlash lampposts and services operate from 25 May to 3 September, 1000-2400 and 4 September to 23 May 1000-1800. An all-day pass costs US$4, while single trips are US$2 and family fares US$10. Tickets and passes are available on the bus (exact change is required) or at hotels. Delaware River Port Authority RiverLink Ferry, One Port Center, 2 Riverside Drive, Camden, New Jersey (tel: (215) 925-LINK; website: www.riverlinkferry.org) provides a ferry service between Penn’s Landing, Walnut Street and Columbus Boulevard in Philadelphia, and the New Jersey State Aquarium, Federal Street and Riverside Drive in Camden, from 23 March to 30 November. Crossings take 12 minutes and leave every 40 minutes, daily 0900-1740. Tickets cost US$5 and are available at dockside terminals. Taxis Taxis are easily hailed in the street throughout Center City. There are taxi ranks at the Greyhound terminal, 1001 Filbert Street, and outside 30th Street station, as well as outside many hotels. Taxi companies offering a telephone service include City Cab Co (tel: (215) 492 6500), Liberty Cab Co (tel: (215) 389 8000) and Quaker City Cab (tel: (215) 728 8000). Rates start at US$1.80 and rise by US$1.80 per mile. A tip of 15% is generally expected. Limousines Many companies offer limousine services around the city. These include CAR ONE Sedan & Limousine (tel: (800) 787 2271; website: www.car1limo.com), Boston Coach (tel: (800) 672 7676 or (610) 521 0500; website: www.bostoncoach.com), King Limousines & Transportation (tel: (800) 245 5460; website: www.kinglimousine.com) and Hermes Transportation (tel: (610) 458-1090; website: www.marsh-creek.com). Rates start at US$65 per hour for stretch limousines and US$55 per hour for sedans. Driving in the City With such a compact city centre and good public transport, a car is not necessary in central Philadelphia, although it is useful for excursions to outlying areas. Nevertheless, driving is pleasurable, as navigating is easy – streets are laid out on a grid system. Numbered streets run north–south and named streets run east–west. The main thoroughfares are Broad Street and Market Street – at their intersection is City Hall. As in any large city, the downtown area can sometimes become clogged with traffic, especially during rush hours (0700-0930 and 1530-1830). There are many parking lots and garages located around the city centre. On-street parking is also available in Center City but visitors should look at the posted signs for restrictions on when parking is allowed. Meters generally cost US$0.25 per 20 minutes, although these do vary. Car Hire The minimum rental age is generally 25 years but some companies will rent cars to drivers aged between 21 and 24 years, at a higher charge. Those wishing to hire a car must be in possession of a full national driving licence. Third party liability insurance is included in car hire rates. Among the major car hire companies operating in Philadelphia are Alamo (tel: (215) 492 3960 or (800) 327 9633; website: www.goalamo.com), Avis (tel: (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (800) 527 0700; website: www.drivebudget.com), Dollar (tel: (800) 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com), Enterprise (tel: (800) RENT-A-CAR; website: www.enterprise.com), Hertz (tel: (800) 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com) and National (tel: (800) 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com). Inclusive rates start at around US$60 per day. Bicycle Hire Trophy Bikes, 311 Market Street (tel: (215) 625 7999; website: www.trophybikes.com), hires out bicycles by the day, for US$25, or half-day, for US$18. Prices include lock and helmet. The company also offers guided bike tours (see Tours of the City section in Sightseeing). Bicycles can also be hired in Fairmount Park at Lloyd Hall, 1 Boathouse Row on Kelly Drive (tel: (215) 232 7368). Rates are US$8 for an hour or US$20 for four hours. Business Business Profile: The coal-driven industries that once made Philadelphia prosperous have long gone and manufacturing in general is on the decline. One exception is the steel industry, with its market leader, Crown Cork & Seal Co, whose profits were boosted by the acquisition of the huge French metals firm, CarnaudMetalbox, a few years ago. Electrical components, instruments, medical devices, chemicals, food products and textiles are among the other goods produced in the metropolitan area. Health care is the city’s leading industry. Among US cities, Philadelphia boasts the highest percentage of physicians engaged in research and has the second largest concentration of health care resources. GlaxoSmithKline, Merck and Rhone-Poulenc Rorer are among the leading pharmaceutical producers in the area – there are more than 125 firms specialising in medicine, biotechnology and medical technology. Banking also is a major industry and some of the largest banks in the region have major offices in Philadelphia, including First Union, PNC Bank and Mellon Bank corporations. Education too is a leading employer, not only the University of Pennsylvania but also the other 88 higher education institutions based in and around the city. The Pennsylvania Convention Center also generates much revenue for the city, as does the growing tourism sector. The Philadelphia 100 project tracks local privately owned companies that have seen the greatest growth in recent years. About 60% of these are service-related businesses, including telecommunications, computer firms and architecture. High tech industry is emerging as a highly successful sector. In recent years, business has been on the upswing in the city, as it emerges from a period of budget deficit and unemployment in the latter 20th century. The greatest boost to Philadelphia’s economy came during the 1990s, when Mayor Rendell’s public-private partnership enticed many businesses back to the city, by cutting taxes and funding state programmes for business expansion and consolidation. The Mayor’s Business Action Team helped small and medium-sized companies raise capital and handle regulatory agencies. Today, over a third of Philadelphia’s employment is based in Center City, which is also the main business centre for the whole region. The city’s unemployment rate, at 4.2%, is slightly lower than the national average of 5.4%. Business Etiquette Businesspeople in Philadelphia dress well and, while suits are still the norm for both men and women in many offices and financial institutions, business dress has generally become more relaxed, particularly on Fridays when many companies allow casual dress. In winter, practicality takes precedence over style and a heavy coat, hat, gloves and waterproof boots are essential in bad weather. The normal working day runs 0900-1700, although some businesses start earlier. Meetings often take place over lunch – generally taken between 1200 and 1300 or 1230 and 1330. Business cards should be exchanged at an appropriate moment, usually the end of a meeting. Where alcohol is concerned, it is best to err on the conservative side until a host’s preferences are known. Many Americans stick to soft drinks at lunchtime. By and large, people are health-conscious and smoking or heavy drinking may be frowned upon in a business environment. Visitors may be invited for after-work drinks and/or dinner, although an invitation to the host’s home is unlikely. Gifts are not necessary, although small items – such as pens with the company logo – are sometimes appropriate. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Attractions in Philadelphia range from historic sites to world-class museums and cultural institutions. Most of the main sights are within walking distance of one another, in the city centre, giving visitors an opportunity for great variety in any one day. At the heart of downtown is City Hall. Directly east, on Market Street, is Independence National Historical Park, with the famous Liberty Bell and the new Liberty Museum (website: www.libertymuseum.org), Market Street continues on to the waterfront and Penn’s Landing. North of Market Street is the Old City Cultural District, with Christ Church, the US Mint and Elfreth’s Alley, the oldest residential street in America – the first house was built in 1713. To the south is Society Hill, with more historic buildings and the trendy South Street neighbourhood of shops, restaurants and nightlife. Circling clockwise around the City Hall hub are the Convention Center District – where Chinatown, the business district and many fine shops and department stores are located – the colourful Washington Square and upmarket Rittenhouse Square neighbourhoods and the Parkway/Museums district. The diagonal Benjamin Franklin Parkway leads to the grande dame of this area, the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Beyond, leafy Fairmount Park spreads along the Schuykill River. Broad Street, the ‘Avenue of the Arts’, runs south past many performing arts venues. Nearby is South Philadelphia, home of the cheesesteak and the famous Italian Market. Tourist Information Philadelphia Convention and Visitors Bureau 1515 Market Street, Suite 2020 Tel: (215) 636 3300. Fax: (215) 636 3327. Website: www.pcvb.org Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (winter); daily 0900-1800 (summer). The new visitor centre in Independence National Historical Park, Sixth Street and Market Street (see Key Attractions), provides information on attractions and events throughout the region as well as computer stations to help in trip planning. Visitors can book tickets to exhibitions and events, make restaurant reservations and sign up for heritage tours. Passes The CityPass (website: www.citypass.com) allows free admission to four attractions – the Franklin Institute Science Museum, Academy of Natural Sciences, Independence Seaport Museum and the Philadelphia Zoo – as well as the Philadelphia Trolley Tour. It costs US$30 (concessions are available), is valid for nine days and can be purchased from the attractions on the day or online in advance. Key Attractions Independence National Historical Park The Independence National Historical Park encompasses several historic attractions that date from the era of the American Revolution, most of which are free to visit. The new Independence Visitor Center provides a good introduction to the sights. There is a National Park Service exhibit area and video presentations about the park and the entire region. Among the highlights at the park is Independence Hall, formerly the Pennsylvania State House, where the Declaration of Independence was issued in 1776 and the Constitution announced in 1787. Park rangers lead free tours of the hall and grounds. The glass Liberty Bell Pavilion houses the great cracked bell that was sounded at the first public reading of the Declaration. It was later adopted by the anti-slavery movement, as a symbol. Talks explaining the Bell’s history are held continuously but crowds are still very large during summer. A new Liberty Bell Centre is under construction and will open in early 2003. The park covers several city blocks and is a pleasant place for visitors to wander and admire the handsome colonial buildings. These include Old City Hall, early home of the US Supreme Court, Carpenters’ Hall, site of the First Continental Congress, and the Second Bank of the United States, an outstanding Greek Revival building that houses a portrait gallery. Sixth Street and Market Street Tel: (215) 965 7676. Website: www.nps.gov/inde or www.independencevisitorcenter.com Transport: Fifth Street station. Opening hours: Daily 0830-1700, although times vary for each building. Admission: Most sites free; otherwise US$2. Christ Church George Washington, Benjamin Franklin and other patriots worshipped at Christ Church, built as the first Protestant Episcopal church in the country. Franklin is buried nearby, in the church’s cemetery. The handsome Georgian building, begun in 1727, features a simple but elegant interior with arched windows, fluted columns and wooden pews. The narrow white steeple was added in 1754. Second Street and Market Street Tel: (215) 922 1695. Website: www.christchurchphila.org Transport: Second Street station. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1300-1700 (Mar-Dec); Wed-Sat 0900-1700 and Sun 1300-1700 (Jan-Feb); services Sun 0900 and 1100, Wed 1200. Admission: Free; donations welcome. Elfreth’s Alley Tucked away off Second Street, between Arch and Race Streets, Elfreth’s Alley is reputed to be the oldest residential street in America. The 33 tiny brick rowhouses were built in the early 18th century, by a blacksmith, Jeremiah Elfreth, who rented them to artisans and seamen. Although the quaint buildings look like a movie set, all are private homes – except the one that houses the Elfreth Alley Museum, which depicts early history and 18th-century life. 126 Elfreth’s Alley Tel: (215) 574 0560. Website: www.elfrethsalley.org Transport: Second Street station. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700 (Mar-Dec); Tues-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1200-1600 (Jan-Feb). Admission: US$2. Betsy Ross House The widow Ross, a staunch patriot, is credited with sewing the first American flag. Although scholars now dispute this, the small 1740s house where she lived is now a museum that provides an insight into the lives of working-class people in the Colonial era, as well as the history of the flag. 239 Arch Street Tel: (215) 686-1252. Website: www.ushistory.org/betsy Transport: Second Street station. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (summer); Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (winter). Admission: US$2 suggested donation. US Mint The United States Mint is the largest in the world. Through windows overlooking the production floor, visitors can watch the coinage process and see thousands of coins spewing out into giant hoppers. Various displays cover the history and process of coin making, commemorative coins and related topics. Fifth and Arch Streets Tel: (215) 408 0114. Website: www.usmint.gov Transport: Fifth Street station. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1630 (Sep-Apr); Mon-Sat 0900-1630 (May-Jun); Mon-Sat 0900-1630, Sun 1100-1630 (Jul-Aug). Admission: Free. Franklin Court Part of the National Historical Park, Franklin Court was the site of Benjamin Franklin’s last home. The house was demolished long ago but in its place stands the striking steel ‘ghost house’, designed by Robert Venturi, which outlines the structure. The Underground Museum here has displays on Franklin’s life as a statesman, scientist and printer, as well as replicas of his inventions and a portrait gallery. Facing Market Street are a row of houses, also built by Franklin, which now house the Franklin Court Printing Office – a working 18th-century print shop – and the B Free Franklin Post Office. Mail sent from here bears this postmark. Behind Chestnut Street and Market Street, between Third Street and Fourth Street Tel: (215) 597 8974. Transport: Second Street station or Fifth Street station. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (winter); daily 1000-1800 (summer). Admission: Free. Penn’s Landing This waterfront stretch along the Delaware River marks the spot where Philadelphia’s founder, William Penn, stepped ashore in 1682. A host of music festivals and cultural events take place here, including a spectacular Fourth of July fireworks show. There are restaurants and live music clubs for night-time entertainment. The Independence Seaport Museum is a maritime museum with interactive displays and demonstrations. Visitors can also tour the 1892 cruiser, USS Olympia, as well as the World War II submarine Becuna. Penn's Landing is also the departure point for ferries to the New Jersey State Aquarium, in Camden (website: www.camdenwaterfront.com), on the opposite side of the river, where the Campell's Baseball Statdium is located. Columbus Boulevard at Spring Garden Street Tel: (215) 922 2386. Website: www.pennslandingcorp.com Transport: Bus 21 or 76. Independence Seaport Museum Tel: (215) 925 5439. Website: http://phillyseaport.org Transport: Bus 17, 21, 33, 48, 76. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission: US$8.00. New Jersey State Aquarium Tel: (800) 616 JAWS or 5297. Website: www.njaquarium.org Transport: RiverLink ferry. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1730 (mid-Apr-mid-Sep); Mon-Fri 0930-1630, Sat and Sun 1000-1700 (mid Sep-mid-Apr). Admission: US$12.95. City Hall Philadelphia boasts the largest and most elaborate city hall in America. Designed in Second Empire style, by John McArthur and Thomas U Walter, it took 30 years to build and was completed in 1901. City Hall's massive central tower rises 167m (548ft) high and is the hub of downtown, with an open courtyard forming a walkway that connects Broad Street and Market Street. The tower is topped by an 11m (37ft) bronze statue of the city’s founder, William Penn, designed by Alexander Milne Calder. The observation deck, at the base of the statue, has superb panoramic views. A one-hour guided tour offers a look at the richly decorated public rooms, such as Conservation Hall and the Mayor’s Reception Room. Broad Street and Market Street Tel: (215) 686 9074. Transport: 15th Street station or City Hall station. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1600 (tower and observation deck); Mon-Fri 1230 (interior tour – room 121, 1.5 hours). Admission: Free. Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts Founded in 1805, by portrait painter Charles Willson Peale and other contemporary artists, the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts was America’s first art school and museum. The ornate Victorian Gothic building – designed by Frank Furness and now a National Historic Landmark – was opened in 1876, in honour of the Centennial. It houses three centuries of American paintings and sculpture by the country’s finest artists, including Gilbert Stuart, Thomas Eakins, William Morris Hunt and Mary Cassatt. There are also exhibitions of contemporary work by the students and faculty staff. Broad Street and Cherry Street Tel: (215) 972 7600. Website: www.pafa.org Transport: Surburban station (commuter rail). Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1100-1700. Admission: US$5; US$8 during special exhibitions. Philadelphia Museum of Art This stately neo-classical building sits at the top of a hill, just west of Center City, with splendid views down the length of the Benjamin Franklin Parkway to City Hall. The steps leading to its entrance are famous for being those climbed by Rocky, in the 1976 film of the same name. The museum’s collection is one of the most important in the country, with more than half a million paintings, sculptures and artefacts spanning 2000 years of art from Asia, Europe and America. Among the highlights are the American collection, with Pennsylvania Dutch and Shaker furniture, as well as works by leading artists, such as Thomas Eakins. There is also a large European collection – from medieval works to a fine collection of French impressionists – and a 16th-century Hindu temple. Free gallery tours, which pinpoint the highlights, are given hourly. 26th Street and Benjamin Franklin Parkway Tel: (215) 763 8100. Website: www.philamuseum.org Transport: Bus 7, 32, 38, 43, 48. Opening hours: Tues, Thurs, Sat-Sun 1000-1700, Wed and Fri 1000-2045. Admission: US$10, concessions available; free until 1300 on Sun. Rodin Museum A branch of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the nearby Rodin Museum features the largest collection of the great sculptor’s work outside Paris. It includes numerous casts of the Thinker, as well as The Burghers of Calais and the Gates of Hell. 22nd Street and Benjamin Franklin Parkway Tel: (215) 763 8100. Website: http://rodinmuseum.org Transport: Bus 76. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Admission: US$3 suggested donation. Institute of Contemporary Art Located at the University of Pennsylvania, the Institute of Contemporary Art is the city’s main venue for presenting the latest developments in the visual arts. Both new and established artists are represented in changing exhibitions of contemporary and often controversial works. 118 South 36th Street at Sansom Street Tel: (215) 898 5911. Website: www.icaphila.org Transport: Bus 21. Opening hours: Wed-Fri 1200-2000, Sat-Sun 1100-1700. Admission: US$3. Further Distractions Italian Market Founded by Italian immigrants, over 125 years ago, the Italian Market in south Philadelphia is said to be the world’s largest outdoor food market and is a ‘must’ for foodies and people-watchers. Imported and domestic products range from cheeses, spices, meats and fresh pastas, along with dry goods. Many shops and restaurants are still run by original family members. South Ninth Street, between Wharton Street and Christian Street Tel: (215) 922 5557. Website: www.phillyitalianmarket.com Transport: Bus 47. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0830-1700. Admission: Free. Fairmount Park Fairmount Park, by the Schuylkill River, is the largest landscaped city park in the USA, with 3600 hectares (8900 acres) of lush parkland and sights, such as the Japanese House and Garden and Boathouse Row – a string of mid-19th-century riverside buildings housing several rowing clubs. Dotted throughout the park are 18th- and 19th-century mansions, some of which can be toured. The park also houses the Philadelphia Zoo. Fairmount Park Tel: (215) 685 0051 or 684 7926, for tours Transport: SEPTA trolley 15 or the Plash bus. Philadelphia Zoo 34th Street and Girard Avenue Tel: (215) 243 1100. Website: www.philadelphiazoo.org Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (Feb-Nov); daily 1000-1600 (Dec-Jan). Admission: US$10.95, concessions available. Tours of the City A host of tours covering Philadelphia and the surrounding region are listed in the Visitors Guide, available from the tourist office. Walking Tours Ghost Tour (tel: (215) 413 1997; website: www.ghosttour.com) and History and Mystery Tours (tel: (877) 724 4678 or (215) 423 3930; website: www.philahistorytours.com) both visit historic and haunted sights in the Old City and Society Hill. One-and-a-quarter-hour Ghost Tours depart from Fifth and Chestnut Street, in Signer's Garden, take place from April to October and cost US$12. There are two History and Mystery walking tours. The one-and-a-half-hour Ghost Tour costs US$10 and departs from Third Street and Chestnut Street, while the History of the GOP tour takes two hours, costs US$15 and departs from Seventh Street and Locust Street, at Washington Square. There are also a range of other historical walking and driving tours on offer. Other special interest tours include a Chinatown Tour (tel: (215) 772 0739) and an Italian Market Tour (tel: (215) 334 6008). Poor Richard’s Walking Tours (tel: (215) 206 1682; e-mail: poorrichard@phillywalks.com; website: www.phillywalks.com) covers four centuries of literary, cultural, religious and political history, on its enlightening tours of the city’s main sights – summer only (group tours only in winter). Departure points for the tours vary depending on the tour, which last two-three hours and cost from US$15. Bus and Trolley Tours Philadelphia Trolley Works (tel: (215) 925 TOUR or 8687; website: www.phillytour.com) gives 90-minute city tours, plus a 40-minute excursion through Fairmount Park, with an all-day hop-on hop-off pass covering 20 stops and costing US$18. The company also offers horse-drawn carriage tours from US$20. American Trolley Tours (tel: (215) 333 2119) gives tours of historic Philadelphia, with pick-ups from hotels and visitor centres. These two-hour tours run daily and cost US$17. Bike Tours Trophy Bikes, 311 Market Street (tel: (215) 625 7999; website: www.trophybikes.com), offers cycle tours of historic Philadelphia areas and Fairmount Park, on Saturday and Sunday morning, April-October. The three-hour tour sets off from the shop, costs US$45 and includes a bike, helmet and guide. Participants can use the bike for the rest of the day. Advance booking is necessary. Trophy also offers standard bike hire (see Bicycle Hire section in Getting Around). Excursions For a Half Day Valley Forge: Valley Forge National Historical Park (tel: (610) 783 1077; website: www.valleyforge.org) is one of the most revered shrines of the American Revolution. Here, George Washington’s Revolutionary army camped during the bitter winter of 1777-78 and, despite a death toll of 2000, the troops rallied to victory. The site contains original 18th-century buildings – including Washington’s headquarters – and a memorial chapel where carillon concerts take place in summer and after Sunday services. The park is 28km (18 miles) northwest of Philadelphia, on Route 23 and North Gulph Road. It is open daily 0900-1700 and admission costs US$2. Nearby is the Wharton Esherick Museum, on Horseshoe Trail Road (tel: (610) 644 5822; website: www.levins.com/esherick.html). Known as the ‘Dean of American Craftsmen’, this eccentric artist is best known for his sculpted furniture, displayed in his studio-home, along with his paintings, ceramics and woodcuts. The museum is open by appointment only. One-hour tours take place from March-December (Saturday 1000-1700, Sunday 1300-1700). Group tours can also be arranged for weekdays (advance booking only). Admission is US$9. The enormous King of Prussia Mall is also located at Valley Forge. For a Whole Day Pennsylvania Dutch Country: Lancaster County is known as Pennsylvania Dutch Country, a land of green rolling hills and quaint villages that are home to Amish and Mennonite communities, who live an old-fashioned lifestyle without electricity, automobiles or modern conveniences. Among the attractions are traditional crafts, such as quilts and Shaker-style furniture, as well as wonderful food specialities from shoofly pie to funnel cakes, dumplings and homemade root beer. Visitors are welcome but should remember not to photograph the Amish and to drive carefully on the back roads, where there are slow-moving horse-drawn buggies. The town of Lancaster is 103km (64 miles) west of Philadelphia, approximately 90 minutes’ drive along US-30. Several tour companies also operate from Philadelphia. The Pennsylvania Dutch Convention and Visitors Bureau, 501 Greenfield Road (tel: (717) 299 8901; website: www.padutchcountry.com), is open Monday-Saturday 0830-1700, Sunday 0900-1700 (November-May), Monday-Saturday 0800-1800, Sunday 0900-1700 (late May-October) and provides information. They sell an in-car audio guide for self-guided tours of the area. The Mennonite Information Center, 2209 Mill Stream Road (tel: (717) 299 0954; website: www.mennoniteinfoctr.com/infoctr.html), is open Monday-Saturday 0800-1700 (April-October), 0830-1630 (November-March) and offers a tour guide service, where a guide will join visitors in their cars for tours of the countryside. Highlights in Lancaster include the Central Market, Penn Square (open Tuesday, Friday and Saturday), offering a range of produce, local specialities and Amish crafts, the Heritage Center of Lancaster County, 13 West King Street (tel: (717) 299 6440), a decorative arts museum featuring furniture, silverware and quilts (open May-November, Tuesday-Saturday 1000-1600), and the Amish Homestead, 2034 Route 30 East (tel: (717) 768 3600), a working farm dating from the mid-18th century (open daily 1100-1600). Surrounding towns are also worth a visit, including Bird-in-Hand, Intercourse and Strasburg, where an historic steam locomotive makes a round-trip to Lancaster. Hotels Hotel prices are subject to a city tax of 7% (comprising Pennsylvania’s state tax of 6% plus 1% for Philadelphia) and a bed tax of 7%. The 14% total tax is usually added to the bill at the end. The prices quoted below are the starting prices for a double room, excluding room tax and breakfast, unless otherwise specified. Business Loews Philadelphia Hotel Another new arrival, this hotel, right in the centre, occupies the vast PSFS building once home to America’s first savings bank. This grand old building, dating from 1932, is Art Deco in style. The vast lobby sports beautiful rugs, a grand piano, Cartier clocks, the old bank vault and a long bar, with ranked champagne bottles, above which a huge curved mural in tiny stones encircles the rear wall. Sizeable rooms off wide corridors echo the 1930s theme in colour and style. The corner rooms are recommended. Room facilities include cordless two-line telephones, modem points for fast Internet connection and fax-printers, while the range of meeting rooms all have Internet access. Breakfast is served in the ample ground-floor restaurant, Restaurant at PSFS (see the Restaurants section). 1200 Market Street Tel: (215) 627 1200. Fax: (215) 231 7305. Website: www.loewshotels.com Price: From US$145. Omni Hotel For those interested in history, the Omni Hotel is ideal. This corner-site, country-style hotel is not only within a short walk of historic sights like the old Statehouse and the Liberty Bell, as well as museums, small galleries and several very good restaurants, but it is also located near the newly emerging downtown business district near the river. For business travellers, the hotel has a dedicated business centre, five meeting and banquet rooms, with state-of-the-art facilities. The decor is opulent – soft colours and carpeting – while the guest rooms are spacious. The Penthouse suite has particularly fine views. All rooms have desks with two-line cordless telephones and modem points. The Azalea is an old-style restaurant overlooking the busy Chestnut Street. There is also a fitness centre and swimming pool. 401 Chestnut Street Tel: (215) 925 000. Fax: (215) 925 1263. Website: www.omnihotels.com Price: From US$139. Philadelphia Marriott Massive and modern, the new Marriott fronts Market Street in the city centre. It is located right beside the rail terminal, with easy access to the Conference Center. It is immensely popular for large gatherings – the meeting infrastructure is well rehearsed and the range of meeting rooms is impressive, from enormous ballrooms to suites. On the main floor, which covers a whole city block up to Arch Street (main entrance), vast lobbies are decorated with charming murals (the circular central one with sculptures is a water garden). There are plenty of bars, restaurants and coffee corners. The bedrooms are big and reflect the Marriott chain’s careful interior design planning. Of the 1408 guest rooms, 460 have been specially designed for business travellers, with big work desks, two-line telephones, voice-mail and modem points for high-speed Internet access. 1201 Market Street Tel: (215) 625 2900. Fax: (215) 625 6000. Website: www.marriotthotels.com Price: From US$130. The Sofitel This new addition to Philadelphia’s hotels is a decided asset to a city with a stock of good hotels. It is nicely sited in the residential quarter, close to shops and many good restaurants. Decidedly French in feeling, many of the staff come from France and are very friendly, not making it feel too formal. A large foyer, good-standard meeting rooms and particularly helpful front-desk personnel and concierges, make this an excellent choice in a relatively quiet location. The guest rooms are large and very well planned, especially the suites, which are so large as to be ideal for small gatherings themselves. 120 South 17th Street Tel: (215) 569 8300. Fax: (215) 564 7459. E-mail: sofitelphl@aol.com Website: www.sofitel.com Price: From US$130. Luxury Four Seasons A little distance from the centre of Philadelphia, this hotel is located near the wide sweep of the avenue that leads to the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Close to the city’s open spaces too, the hotel’s interior is loaded with shrubbery and floral displays, making a park of the truly vast carpeted lobbies and very handsome restaurants occupying the ground floor. (Excellent candle-lit dining in the Fountain Restaurant and Swann Lounge.) Like its sister hotels of the chain, it goes for a really sumptuous air throughout, including the bedrooms. Elegance is always combined with facilities; the rooms have voice-mail, two-line telephones and modem points. The hotel also has extensive meeting facilities – these rooms too are functional and impressive – a health club, pool and spa. 1 Logan Square Tel: (215) 963 1500. Fax: (215) 963 9506l. Website: www.fourseasons.com Price: From US$310. Radisson Plaza-Warwick Hotel Philadelphia The Warwick (to give it its short name) is a quiet understated roost of great old character in the smart southwest quarter of the city – popular with artists and actors. The neat portals presage a charming interior, inside it is a well-established stylish building with a warm welcome. Although rooms may not be as vast as newer places, they are very well maintained and have plenty of amenities. The suites, for example, all have two-line telephones, big desk and modem point. There is also a business centre, meeting room and a heliport. The clubby ground-floor restaurant, The Prime Rib, specialises in roasts and steaks (see the Restaurants section). 1701 Locust Street Tel: (215) 735 6000. Fax: (215) 789 6105. Website: www.radisson.com/philadelphiapa Price: From US$119. The Ritz-Carlton Quite simply, one of the best addresses in town. This newly opened hostelry is beside Philadelphia’s City Hall on the Avenue of the Arts, recently renamed because of its cultural events, theatres and exhibitions spaces. The Ritz-Carlton occupies a grandiose one-time bank – the old domed banking hall is now the reception, while the vault is a cigar and brandy bar (the marble steps on the way down are worn where once ladies descended to get their gems from strong boxes). The lobby has plenty of sitting space and a handsome bar, while just off it is a breakfast restaurant and the Paris Bar and Grill (see the Restaurants section). The guest rooms are huge and the bathrooms luxurious. Facilities include voice-mail, multi-line telephones, computer and fax hook-ups, modem points and Internet access. Further in-room business facilities are available in the ‘Club’ rooms on the four upper floors, which also have an opulent lounge with views, and free drinks and snacks in the evening offered by a charming concierge, Tammy. There is also a range of meeting rooms, with state-of-the-art equipment, and banqueting halls, with and a conference planning team on hand. 10 Avenue of the Arts, at Broad Street Tel: (215) 735 7700. Fax: (215) 735 7710. Website: www.ritzcarlton.com Price: From US$330. Moderate Hilton Garden Hotel Despite its lack of an impressive façade, the Hilton Garden Hotel is a really good-value hotel in the centre of town. It is modern, unassuming and absolutely ideal for the next-door Conference Center, coach and rail stations and the many shops of Market Street. The 279 guest rooms offer straightforward comfort but good business facilities, like a spacious work desk with two two-line telephones, voice-mail and modem point. The hotel has a fully stocked business centre, an indoor swimming pool and a fitness centre. Great views can be had from the airy restaurant beside an expansive bar on the top (tenth) floor. 1100 Arch Street Tel: (215) 923 0100. Website: www.hiltongardenphilly.com Price: From US$129. Holiday Inn Handy for the historic district downtown, this sprawling low-rise hotel is a popular choice for car drivers with its convenient access from highways and the river bridges to New Jersey. It has a large parking garage next door to its wide entrance on Fourth Street. The lobby has a warm atmosphere and lots of plants. The 364 guest rooms are a comfortable size, with comfortable decor, work desks, voice mail and modem points. There are a number of meeting rooms from small to medium and access is easy. Other amenities include a fitness room, a rooftop pool in summer and the folksy Benton’s Grill. Additionally, the many restaurants of the historic district are close by. 400 Arch Street Tel: (215) 923 8660. Fax: (215) 923 4633. Website: www.sixcontinentshotels.com/holiday-inn Price: From US$129. The Independence Park Inn A reasonably priced small hotel of character, this landmark 1856 building with blue-grey façade and tall windows has been restructured to make a pleasant, country-inn-style Best Western hotel. The small lobby, with a curving stairway, has big sofas ranged before a fire, while the long glass-roofed breakfast room is to one side. Guests are invited to the manager’s wine and cheese party every Wednesday at 1730. Very much a low-key home-from-home kind of hotel, for families, couples and tourists, the Inn is handy for walking to the historic district. There are only 36 traditional high-ceilinged guest rooms, but all have en-suite bathroom. Three small meeting rooms are available, with audiovisual services. 235 Chestnut Street Tel: (215) 922 4443. Fax: (215) 922 4487. Website: www.independenceparkinn.com Price: From US$120. Restaurants We have selected 25 restaurants, which we have divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. Restaurant prices are subject to a city tax of 7% (comprising Pennsylvania’s state tax of 6% plus 1% for Philadelphia). This is usually added to the bill at the end of the meal. Increasingly, diners will find that a service charge (usually 15%) has been added to the bill as well, although they should always check. Where no service charge has been added, it is assumed that diners will tip 15-20% of the total bill. The prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they do not include tax, service charge or tip. Gastronomic Brasserie Perrier Celebrated chef George Perrier owns this smart little place in the social heart of town, as well as its grander cousin down the street – the internationally renowned Le Bec-Fin. The Brasserie Perrier is a more informal, but still splendid, version of such fine dining – for those with less deep pockets. Monsieur Perrier is often on hand to see the public enjoying his French cuisine with Italian or Asian influences, although Chris Scarduzio is Executive Chef. The pepper-crusted tuna is a fantastic dish, as are the veal medallions, served with orzo pasta and sautéed wild mushrooms. The interior is charming and the atmosphere lively. 1619 Walnut Street Tel: (215) 568 3000. Website: www.brasserieperrier.com Price: US$65. Wine: US$30. Le Bec-Fin, 1523 Walnut Street Tel: (215) 567 1000. Website: www.lebecfin.com Buddakan One of Philadelphia’s top temples to food, this handsome, calm two-level room, with white furnishings, is presided over by an urbane Buddha. The food is very fashionable pan-Asian, such as the tuna carpaccio pizza, the signature chicken-and-ginger dumplings or the pad thai. Entreés are slightly more unusual, such as roast chicken, with a ponzu brown butter sauce and golden Buddha buns. However, all the dishes are exquisite – delicious and well-presented – and the plentiful portions are designed to be shared. Reservations are essential. 325 Chestnut Street Tel: (215) 574 9440. Website: www.buddakan.com Price: US$60. Wine: US$25 (bottle); US$40 (carafe Japanese plum wine). Paris Bar and Grill Just off the white marble foyer of The Ritz-Carlton, the Paris Bar and Grill is a long room with handsome antique-style furnishings, deep carpets and an old established feel. Chef Andrew Hewson actually serves up New American cuisine from his open kitchen, working wonders with light, cream-free and butter-free, organic dishes, such as tuna salad with artichokes, aged beef or a variety of shellfish. The Ritz-Carlton, 10 Avenue of the Arts Tel: (215) 735 7700. Website: www.ritzcarlton.com Price: US$60. Wine: US$25. Tangerine This new, very much ‘in’ place is always crowded. It has a wildly colourful nightclub-style design (varying from mod to Moorish), dim lighting and loud music. However, the food is exotic and inventive, sometimes even excessive (scallops with foie gras). From Paris to Tangier, dishes include roast lamb with roasted pepper tapenade, harissa gnocchi with dates and celery root, or duck confit couscous served with caramelised apples, turnips and prunes. 232 Market Street Tel: (215) 627 5116. Tel: (215) 627 5117. Website: www.tangerinerestaurant.com Price: US$65. Wine: US$35. Vetri This highly praised restaurant is set in an old townhouse just off the Avenue of the Arts. It is cosy and somewhat eccentric and yet, although the style may be rustic regional Italian, it is a smart and expensive choice. The chef-owner is very serious about his food, especially his pasta, which is all handmade and perfect. There is also a large wine cellar. Closed Sunday. 1312 Spruce Street Tel: (215) 732 3478. Price: US$85. Wine: US$30. Business Avenue B Occupying a vast high-ceilinged room, this new and impressive restaurant is handily close to theatres and the new arts centre. It provides Italian dishes and an all-Italian wine list, as well as specialities as wood-grilled shrimp, steamed mussels or roasted peppers. After an inventive cocktail in the foyer bar, diners will be shown to their table by the effusive hostess, Dorothy. There is also a garden café in warm weather. 260 Avenue of the Arts, at Spruce Street Tel: (215) 790 0705. Website: www.mealticket.org Price: US$40. Wine: US$25. Chez Colette This big, open ground-floor brasserie-style restaurant is named after one of France’s greatest authors, Colette. The dishes on offer are classic and simple – whether French, such as onion soup, omelettes or tarte tatin, or American. The decor is fairly plain, although there is a superb collection of old posters and photographs, including many of Colette herself. Although situated just off the lobby of the Sofitel (see the Hotels section), there is a separate entrance to the street. 120 South 17th Street Tel: (215) 569 8300. Fax: (215) 564 7453. Price: US$40. Wine: US$20. Paradigm All simple colours and smart, economic design, this newcomer in the historic downtown features a semi-circular bar, round tables, natural wood floors and an outside terrace. As for the food, it is modern fare, such as grilled ostrich, served with purple Peruvian mashed potatoes and a raspberry demiglace, or rosemary roasted chicken, served with grilled seasonal vegetables. They also do excellent salads. Desserts tend to be unlikely combinations of ingredients but delicious. Diners should be careful to lock the unusual toilet doors – otherwise the glass is see-through! Closed Sunday. No lunch Saturday. 239 Chestnut Street Tel: (215) 238 6900. Website: www.paradigmrestaurant.com Price: US$35. Wine: US$25. The Prime Rib This established and award-winning restaurant serves up – as the name suggests – the very best beef. As well as the beef dishes in their many different guises, from roasts to steaks (such as the 17 oz NY strip steak), the menu does contain veal, pork and seafood dishes, and crisp veggies too. There is live music at night, a friendly bar and the decor is dark and warm. The restaurant is located in the Warwick (see the Hotels section) and can be entered via its lobby on 17th Street or directly from Locust Street. Radisson Plaza-Warwick Hotel Philadelphia, 1701 Locust Street Tel: (215) 772 1701. Fax: (215) 790 9979. Website: www.theprimerib.com Price: US$35. Wine: US$29. The Restaurant at PSFS This airing eating place, located at the rear of the lobby of the Loews Hotel (see the Hotels section) in the vast PSFS bank building, is especially popular for lunch. The white-clothed tables are well spaced, while the regional American cuisine features sesame-crusted salmon, soft-shell crab sandwiches or lobster tail baguettes. Loews Philadelphia Hotel, 1200 Market Street Tel: (215) 627 1200. Fax: (215) 231 7312. Website: www.loewshotels.com Price: US$20 (lunch); US$30 (dinner). Wine: US$6 (glass). Trendy Bleu This new arrival on the smart South Side offers casual dining in a modern, modish setting, with views of the verdant Rittenhouse Square from their its windows or pavement terrace. The American food is light yet satisfying, especially the unctuous burger – with delicious fries and blue cheese, of course. Star desserts as well. The twin restaurant, Rouge, is close by, at number 205 of the same street. 227 South 18th Street Tel: (215) 545 0342. Fax: (215) 545 9318. Website: www.mealticket.org Price: US$35. Wine: US$6 (glass). The Blue Angel (L’Ange Bleu) Another adaptation of an old store – hence the tiles, glass ceiling and tesselated floor and the big windows that face the street in midtown. With classic French dishes, a zinc bar imported from Paris and wine served in carafes, there is a Parisian Art Nouveau feel to this popular bistro. Dishes are familiar bistro classics, from croque monsieur, French onion soup and moules or steak-frites to more substantial entrées at dinner (steak au poivre, bouillabaisse, pan-roasted chicken or trout meuniere), but there is also an excellent raw bar (oysters, shellfish) and good salads. 706 Chestnut Street Tel: (215) 925 6889. Fax: (215) 925 6884. Website: www.blueangelbistro.com Price: US$35. Wine: US$12 (caraffe). Fork This fashionable establishment incorporates some theatrical design features (huge lampshades, high banquettes) but still manages a welcoming ambience. Located on the city’s main street in the historic area, this American bistro-style restaurant serves up the freshest local produce possible, in particular, their organic vegetables are star. The scallops, salmon or seared duck are also fantastic, but Fork is also famed for its home-baked desserts. 306 Market Street Tel: (215) 625 9425. Fax: (215) 625 9435. Website: www.forkrestaurant.com Price: US$35. Wine: US$20. Museum Restaurant This handsome restaurant, on the lower first floor of the truly fabulous Philadelphia Museum of Art, overlooks the surrounding park with its big windows. It features stylish, simple designs – black leather banquettes, elegant glassware – with a calm, cool air. The regional American cuisine is quite a rare treat and the staff eagerly offer guidance with the menu. The old-fashioned country recipes come from places like Pennsylvania and New England and include dishes like chowders or fruit pies; sometimes even specialised Mennonite dishes. There is also a café, serving simpler fare for families. Only open for dinner 1700-1930 (last seating), Wednesday and Friday; although lunch daily, as well as brunch on Sundays. 26th Street and Benjamin Franklin Parkway Tel: (215) 684 7990. Price: US$35. Wine: US$13. Striped Bass This smart and popular eating place used to be another venerable old bank and the spacious marble and bronze foyer has been turned into an impressive dining room with open kitchen. The all-seafood menu may not come as a huge surprise, after hearing the name and seeing the huge sculpture of the big fish, however, it does offer up some unusual ingredients, for example, soft-shell crabs from mid-April, fluke and the restaurant’s namesake, of course, the striped bass. 1500 Walnut Street Tel: (215) 732 4444. Fax: (215) 732 4433. Website: www.mealticket.org Price: US$60. Wine: US$25. Budget Arctic Blue A recent downtown venture, this ‘authentic Chinese buffet’ offers good Chinese dishes at bargain rates. The long restaurant is sharply new, tiled and glittery with bright lights, with two big serve-yourself tables in the centre. There is a brunch buffet daily (from US$5.95). Helpful staff will suggest which Cantonese-style specialities might appeal, but they are mainly typical dishes from egg-fried rice to beef and black bean sauce or duck with lemon. Take away is also available. 915 Arch Street Tel: (215) 238 3996. Fax: (215) 238 3997. Price: US$12. Beer: US$3.50. Lord & Taylor This old-fashioned but smart department store, opposite the looming City Hall, has a café on the third floor, which is situated on a wide balcony. Female execs come here for a spot of shopping and a lunch of simple American salads and well-filled sandwiches. The midday organ concerts are also an attraction. 1300 Market Street Tel: (215) 241 9000, ext. 383. Price: Dishes from US$8. Wine: US$3.50 (glass). Pat’s King of Steaks One of the city’s specialities is cheese steak and the best place to find it is Pat’s King of Steaks, an outfit run by the same family since it opened in 1930. Located in South Philadelphia, near the Italian Market, Pat’s is the local eating place for these sandwiches packed with flaked steak and slices of cheese – so much so that Bill Clinton has visited. Pat’s is the original and it is open 24 hours a day, is good for groups and has tables outside in summer; but a viable alternative is Jim’s Steaks, 400 South Street (tel: (215) 928 1911). 1237 East Passyunk Avenue, at South Ninth Street and Wharton Street Tel: (215) 468 1546. Fax: (215) 271 1892. Website: www.patskingofsteaks.com Price: US$6. Unlicensed. Pietro’s Coal Oven Pizzeria Not as familiar a form of baking pizza as the old wood-fired brick oven, however, this family business has been baking pizzas this way for 60 years – and they are just as delicious. Pizzas start at US$9.95 and come with a choice of 18 toppings (US$2 extra), but there are many Italian salads and pasta dishes too. It is a good venue for groups and families. 1714 Walnut Street Tel: (215) 735 8090. Fax: (215) 735 8091. Website: www.pietrospizza.com Price: US$20. Beer: US$3.50. Branch: 121 South Street Tel: (215) 733 0675. Fax: (215) 625 9170. Rangoon Situated in the Chinese section just off Arch Street, a short walk from the Conference Center, the green façade of Rangoon is easy to spot. As the name suggests, Burmese specialities predominate here. Owned and run by three Burmese women, this restaurant is a favourite with locals in search of exotic Asian food, such as Burmese curry or calamari salad. 112 North Ninth Street Tel: (215) 829 8939. Fax: (215) 629 2370. Website: www.phillychinatown.com/rangoon.htm Price: US$20. Beer: US$4. Personal Recommendations Friday Saturday Sunday It is 30 years since this charming place started – and everything is original, from the chains of twinkling lights to the mirrors. Situated in an old brick house on a leafy street, it is a favourite with locals. The food is simple, fresh and classic (filet mignon, rack of lamb, crab cakes) – although recently more Asian suggestions have arrived, such as salmon or tilapia with lime sauce and tequila. 261 South 21st Street Tel: (215) 546 4232. Website: www.frisatsun.com Price: US$35. Wine: US$20. Joseph Poon’s Asian Fusion A small, charmingly eccentric restaurant right in Chinatown, close to mid-town’s Conference Center. This star venue for Oriental food features a fabulous range of delicious dishes, such as Malaysian pizza, Indian lamb in filo pastry or vegetables stir-fried in Thai curry sauce. Also, Joe Poon himself is usually on hand to help diners choose dishes and to answer questions about his lively and imaginative approach to fusion cooking. 1002 Arch Street Tel: (215) 928 9333. Fax: (215) 928 9368. Website: www.josephpoon.com Price: US$25. Beer: US$4. Novelty Another arrival in the up-and-coming historic area is cleverly contained within an old variety store complete with original tin ceiling. The dark interior, original fittings and wide street-side windows give it a real atmosphere. The food is modern and often innovative, such as veal and duck, while the good seafood includes tuna and soft-shell crabs. 15 South Third Street Tel: (215) 627 7885. Fax: (215) 627 9151. Website: www.noveltyrestaurant.com Price: US$30. Wine: US$12. Porcini’s This very small establishment is a great place for a quiet intimate meal – although it does not have much space. In an old building, the front window bulges onto the street and offers glimpses of the cosy interior. With plain decor, the restaurant has the air of being a local classic. It serves up good basic Italian dishes, such as handmade lasagne, with daily specials and desserts. No lunch. 2048 Sansom Street Tel: (215) 751 1175. E-mail: porcinirest@aol.com Website: www.phillyrestaurants.com/porcini Price: US$30. Wine: BYO (free corkage). Reading Terminal Market This original meat and vegetable market opened in 1892 and is now a great place for lunch or for buying fresh produce – all its delicious food is at low prices. Diners choose from dozens of stalls, then take their dish to tables and nosh on the country food, such as hearty sausage, meat and chicken plates or big sandwiches. Many stalls are run by the local Pennsylvania Dutch community. Located beside the city’s mammoth Conference Center, with trains still rumbling into the main station, Reading Terminal is not to be missed. 12th Street and Arch Street Tel: (215) 922 2317. Website: www.readingterminalmarket.org Price: From US$5 per dish. Sport With several top professional teams, Philadelphia offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy spectator sports and these, especially basketball and ice hockey, are extremely popular with the locals. In addition to the box office, tickets for most events can be purchased through TicketsNow (tel: (800) 927 2770; website: www.ticketsnow.com) and TicketMaster (tel: (215) 336 2000; website: www.ticketmaster.com). Three venues on Broad Street in South Philadelphia handle most of the action. Comcast-Spectacor’s First Union Center, 3601 South Broad Street (tel: (215) 336 3600; website: www.comcast-spectacor.com), is home to the National Hockey League team, Philadelphia Flyers (tel: (215) 465 4500, website: www.philadelphiaflyers.com) and the Philadelphia 76ers basketball team (tel: (215) 339 7600; website: www.sixers.com). The American Hockey League team, Phantoms (tel: (215) 465 4522; website: www.phantomshockey.com), the KiXX soccer team (tel: (215) 925 KIXX; website: www.geocities.com/colosseum/sideline/8709) and the Philadelphia Wings lacrosse team play at the Spectrum (tel: (215) 336 3600), opposite First Union Center. Veterans Stadium, Broad Street and Pattison Avenue (tel: (215) 685 1500), is the venue for the Philadelphia Phillies baseball team (tel: (215) 463 1000; website: www.phillies.com) and the Philadelphia Eagles football team (tel: (215) 463 5500; website: www.eaglesnet.com). Fitness centres: Centres offering visitor day passes include Westin Fitness, 1835 Market Street (tel: (215) 963 2700), for US$12, Rittenhouse Square Fitness Club, 2002 Rittenhouse Street (tel: (215) 985 4095), for US$10, and World Gym, 2020 Sansom Street (tel: (215) 972 0927), for US$10. Golf: There are many public golf courses in the area – a golf guide is available from the Philadelphia Visitors Center. Among the top courses is Scotland Run Golf Club, over the Ben Franklin Bridge on Route 322 and Fries Mill Road, Williamstown (tel: (856) 863 3737; website: www.scotlandrun.com), 20 minutes from the city centre, with a blend of wooded, quarry and links-style holes. Membership is not required and green fees range from US$58 in winter to US105 on summer weekends. Meadowbrook Golf Group (tel: (215) 877 1600; website: www.golfphilly.com) manages all the Philadelphia public golf courses, which are open to the public year-round. Visitors should call for specific locations. Ice skating: River Rink (tel: (215 925 RINK or 7465; website: www.riverrink.com) is an outdoor rink at Festival Pier, Penn’s Landing, in operation from late November to early March (Monday-Thursday 1800-2100, Friday-Sunday 1230-late). Entrance is US$5 or US$6 at weekends and Friday evening. Skate rental costs and extra US$3. Tennis: Philadelphia has more than 200 public courts. Many are free of charge. Fairmount Park (tel: (215) 685 0051) provides information on locations, reservations and special programs. Shopping Shopping is a big attraction for visitors to Philadelphia, especially because the state of Pennsylvania has no sales tax on clothing or shoes and sales tax on other goods is only 7%. Major department stores are open Monday-Saturday 1000-1900 and Sunday 1000-1700. Most of the downtown shops close at 1700 or 1800, although those in the large malls, such as The Gallery, may stay open later. Many shops and department stores also stay open until 2000 on Wednesday. The big malls outside the city centre are open Monday-Saturday 1000-2130 and Sunday 1100-1800. Center City has hundreds of clothing and jewellery stores. The granddaddy of them all is the John Wanamaker building, on 13th Street and Market Street, now occupied by Lord & Taylor. The enormous Grand Court is crowned by a 30,000-pipe organ, which is played daily at 1115 and 1715. Another Philadelphia institution is Strawbridge’s department store, on Eighth Street and Market Street. The Gallery at Market East is the nation’s largest enclosed urban shopping centre. The Shops at Liberty Place, 16th Street and Chestnut Street, and The Bourse, 111 South Independence Mall East, are two other large shopping centres boasting gourmet foods and restaurants as well as shops. Rittenhouse Row is the city’s upmarket shopping and dining district. Jeweler’s Row, on Sansom Street, and Antique Row, on Pine Street, run for several blocks in the Washington Square district. South Street has several blocks of funky, eclectic shops and boutiques, while Fabric Row, on Fourth Street, between Bainbridge Street and Catherine Street, offers fabulous fabric stores. The expanse of the Italian Market, South Ninth Street (see Further Distractions) offers a range off foodstuffs every Tuesday-Saturday 0830-1700, while Head House Square offers an outdoor craft market during the summer months. Shoppers come from all over the East Coast to the enormous King of Prussia Mall, 24km (15 miles) west of the city, on North Gulph Road. The shopping complex encompasses The Plaza and The Court, with eight major department stores and 365 speciality stores, including upmarket names like Versace, Hermes and Tiffany. Franklin Mills, 26km (16 miles) from Center City, at 1455 Franklin Mills Circle, is a huge factory outlet mall with more than 200 stores selling name brands at 20-70% discounts. There are no tax refund schemes currently available to visitors to Philadelphia. Culture Philadelphia's cultural history is one that stretches back quite far into America's past – the city lays claim to both the country's oldest music hall still in use and oldest theatre. So popular are the arts in Philadelphia that the city has renamed a section of South Broad Street the ‘Avenue of the Arts’, with many theatres, concert halls and performing arts schools located along here. The Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts, 260 South Broad Street (tel: (215) 790 5800 or 893 1999, fax (215) 790 5801; website: www.kimmelcenter.org), is the city’s spectacular new landmark, occupying an entire block on the Avenue of the Arts. It comprises two state-of-the-art venues, which serve as the backdrop to some of Philadelphia’s acclaimed performing groups. The Kimmel Center Verizon Hall is the new home of the world-renowned Philadelphia Orchestra (tel: (215) 893 1900; website: www.philorch.org). The Orchestra’s summer venue is the Mann Center for the Performing Arts, Fairmount Park (tel: 215) 893 1999; website: www.manncenter.org), which also features jazz, pops, dance and musical theatre. Peter Nero and the Philly Pops (tel: (215) 546 6400; website: www.phillypops.com), one of the country’s most famous pops orchestras, also perform jazz, big band and Broadway classics at the Fairmount Park venue. Companies resident in the Kimmel Center's Perelman Theater include the Chamber Orchestra of Philadelphia (tel: (215) 545 5451; website: www.concertosoloists.org), the Philadelphia Chamber Music Society (tel: (215) 569 8080; website: www.pcmsnet.org), American Theater Arts for Youth (tel: (800) 523 4540; website: www.atafy.org) and Philadanco (tel: (215) 387 8200; website: www.philadanco.org). Entertainment listings can be found in the main daily newspapers – the Philadelphia Inquirer and the Philadelphia Daily News – the monthly Philadelphia Magazine and the free publications – City Paper and Philadelphia Weekly. Tickets can be purchased directly from the venues or from TicketMaster (tel: (215) 336 2000; website: www.ticketmaster.com). Another agency to try is A First Class Ticket Company (tel: (888) 848 3836; website: www.afirstclassticket.com). Music: The Academy of Music, Broad Street and Locust Street (tel: (215) 893 1999), opened in 1857, is the country's oldest music hall that is still in use. It is home to the Opera Company of Philadelphia (tel: (215) 732 8400; website: www.operaphilly.com), which performs many of opera’s greatest hits. Theatre: Philadelphia has a strong theatrical tradition embodied by the Walnut Street Theater, Ninth Street and Walnut Street (tel: (215) 574 3550; website: www.wstonline.org), America’s oldest theatre. Other leading theatres include the Freedom Theatre, 1346 North Broad Street (tel: (215) 765 2793; website: www.freedomtheatre.org), an award winning African-American theatre company. The Forrest Theatre, 1114 Walnut Street (tel: (800) 447 7400; website: www.forrest-theatre.com), named after matinée idol Edwin Forrest, performs Broadway blockbusters, while the Prince Music Theater, 1412 Chestnut Street (tel: (215) 569 9700; website: www.princemusictheater.org), produces original musicals. The Arden Theatre Company, 40 North Second Street (tel: (215) 922 1122; website: www.ardentheatre.org), in the Old City, stages innovative productions ranging from musicals to the classics. Productions at the Wilma Theatre, Broad Street and Spruce Street (tel: (215) 546 7824; website: www.wilmatheater.org), range from new drama to black comedy and world premieres. Dance: The Pennsylvania Ballet (tel: (215) 551 7000; website: www.paballet.org) performs classics and new works at the Academy of Music, Broad Street and Locust Street (tel: (215) 893 1999), including the perennial holiday favourite The Nutcracker. Philadanco (tel: (215) 387 8200; website: www.philadanco.org), one of the country’s leading African-American dance companies, performs at the Kimmel Center, 260 South Broad Street (tel: (215) 790 5800 or 893 1999, fax (215) 790 5801; website: www.kimmelcenter.org). Film: Philadelphia has been the setting for a number of films, including Rocky (1976), Trading Places (1983), The Sixth Sense (1999), Unbreakable (2000) and, of course, Philadelphia (1993). Among the best of the cinemas showing mainstream films are The Ritz Five, 214 Walnut Street, and The Ritz at the Bourse, Fourth Street and Chestnut Street, which also show foreign, arthouse and limited release films and have comfortable reclining seats. Cutting-edge films by local and worldwide film makers can be seen at the Philadelphia Festival of World Cinema (tel: (215) 733 0608; website: www.phillyfests.com/pfwc), which takes place 4-15 April, 2002. The Philadelphia International Gay and Lesbian Film Festival (tel: (215) 735 7887; website: www.phillyfests.com/piglff) is held 11-22 July, 2002. Cultural events: The Mummers Parade, on New Year’s Day, is a unique Philadelphia tradition, with string bands and extravagantly costumed ‘Mummers’ strutting up Broad Street, followed by the Mummers Fancy Brigade Finale at the Pennsylvania Convention Center. The Philadelphia Flower Show (tel: (215) 988 8899; website: www.theflowershow.com), held in early March, is one of the largest in the world. The Greater Philadelphia Blues Fest takes place 1 June, at Irvine Auditorium on the University of Pennsylvania campus (tel: (215) 662 1612). The Mellon Jazz Festival (tel: (610) 667 0501) is held throughout the city in June. Independence Day celebrations around the city on the Fourth of July range from parades to music to fireworks. Literary Notes Philadelphia’s best-known literary figure is Edgar Allan Poe, who came to the city in 1837 and lived here for ten years. In a house at North Seventh Street and Spring Garden Street, which is now the Edgar Allan Poe National Historic Site, he penned some of his most famous stories, including The Fall of the House of Usher (1839), The Murders in the Rue Morgue (1841) and The Gold Bug (1843), as well as the poem Annabel Lee (1849), dedicated to his beloved wife. A century earlier, Benjamin Franklin was writing his timeless word of wisdom in the annual, Poor Richard’s Almanack (1733-58). His philosophies are further explored in Autobiography and Other Writings (1771-1788) by Benjamin Franklin and Benjamin Franklin: His Life As He Wrote It (1990), by Esmond Wright. Other famous literary Philadelphians include the poet Walt Whitman and the author James A Michener, who hails from nearby Bucks County – there is a museum in Michener’s honour at Doylestown. Bucks County was also home to the Pulitzer- and Nobel-prize-winning author, Pearl S Buck, author of The Good Earth (1931). Her farmhouse at Perkasie can also be visited. Upper-crust Philadelphia society was portrayed in Philip Barry’s play, The Philadelphia Story (1939), which was made into a film starring Katharine Hepburn, Cary Grant and James Stewart. Nightlife Philadelphia has a lively nightlife scene. Much of it is centred on dining out, for the city boasts a wealth of top restaurants – from the best of world cuisine to local specialities, such as cheesesteaks, hoagies and ethnic foods. A range of music is on offer every night of the week, although the city is especially known for great jazz and blues. South Street, between Front Street and Seventh Street, is a trendy nightlife area, with comedy clubs, jazz and rock clubs. Other popular nightlife spots can be found on Columbus Boulevard, along the Delaware River, around Penn’s Landing. The legal drinking age in Pennsylvania is 21 years and bar closing time is 0200 daily. Drink prices vary widely according to venues, although prices are generally between US$3.50 and US$5. There are no particular dress codes or admission requirements in Philadelphia – these too tend to vary depending on the establishment. The main daily newspapers containing nightlife listings are the Philadelphia Inquirer and the Philadelphia Daily News. Entertainment listings can also be found in the free publications – City Paper and Philadelphia Weekly – and Philadelphia Magazine’s Going Out Guide. Bars: Bar Noir, 112 South 18th Street, is an underground bar with great cocktails and vintage movies. The Irish Pub, 1123 Walnut Street, is a great spot for good beer and Irish tunes. The Artful Dodger, on Head House Square, is fashioned after a traditional English pub and offers entertainment at weekends. Dave & Busters, 325 North Columbus Boulevard, Pier 19 at Penn’s Landing, is a popular sports bar, with billiards and electronic games. Liberties, Second Street, north of the Old City, is smart, comfortable and decorated with antiques. Mahogany on Walnut, 1524 Walnut Street, in the Rittenhouse district, is a dark and plush cigar bar. Casinos: Gambling is illegal in Pennsylvania. Clubs: Brazil, 111 Chestnut Street, is a hot salsa and reggae spot, while Polly Esthers, 1201 Race Street, favours 1970s disco, as well as 80s favourites upstairs in the Culture Club. Shampoo, Seventh Street and Willow Street, has four levels of various music styles to choose from. Egypt is a huge waterfront nightclub on Columbus Boulevard, hosting hip-hop and techno nights, while KatManDu, 417 North Columbus Boulevard, Pier 25, and Rock Lobster, 221 North Columbus Avenue, Pier 13-14, are open seasonally. KatManDu plays a variety of music from rock to reggae, while Rock Lobster is aimed at an older crowd and plays mostly rock ‘n’ roll. Live music: Two of the hottest clubs in Philadelphia are Warmdaddy’s, an upmarket club at 4 Front Street, with the best of live blues, and Zanzibar Blue, 200 South Broad Street, where top jazz musicians perform. Chris’ Jazz Cafe, 1421 Sansom Street, and Ortlieb’s Jazzhaus, Third Street and Poplar Street, are also good venues for live jazz. Pontiac is a venerable South Street rock club featuring live local bands. City Statistics Location: Pennsylvania, western United States. Country dialling code: 1. Population: 1.6 million (city); 5.8 million (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: 53% white, 39% black, 5.3% Hispanic, 2.7% Asian and Pacific Islander. Religion: 61% Protestant, 25% Roman Catholic, 2% Jewish, 12% other. Time zone: GMT - 5 hours (GMT - 4 hours from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 110 volts AC, 50Hz; standard two-pin plugs are used. Average January temp: 0.5ºC (33ºF). Average July temp: 25ºC (76ºF). Annual rainfall: 1024mm (40.3 inches). Annual snowfall: 508mm (20 inches). Special Events Mummers Parade, string bands and parade 1 Jan, Broad Street Mummers Fancy Brigade Finale, 1 Jan, Pennsylvania Convention Center Chinese New Year, Feb, Chinatown The Book and the Cook Festival and Fair, Mar, Adam’s Mark Hotel Philadelphia Flower Show, early Mar, Pennsylvania Convention Center St Patrick’s Day Parade, 17 Mar (or closest Sunday), Benjamin Franklin Parkway Philadelphia Festival of World Cinema, Apr, various venues Philadelphia Open House, tour of private homes and gardens, Apr-May, various venues Pridefest Philadelphia, gay and lesbian festival, Apr-May, various venues Mellon Jazz Festival, Jun, throughout the city Greater Philadelphia Blues Fest, early Jun, Irvine Auditorium on the University of Pennsylvania campus Rittenhouse Square Fine Arts Annual, early Jun, Rittenhouse Square Elfreth’s Alley Fete Days, early Jun, Elfreth's Alley Sunoco Welcome America! Independence Day celebrations, late Jun-early Jul, various venues Independence Day, 4 Jul, throughout the city Philadelphia International Gay and Lesbian Film Festival, Jul Caribbean Festival, Aug, Festival Pier African American Cultural Extravaganza, late Aug, Festival Pier Yo! Philadelphia festival, Labor Day weekend, late Aug -early Sep, Festival Pier Thanksgiving Day Parade, 4th Thurs in Nov, Downtown Christmas Light Show, late Nov-late Dec, Lord & Taylor Grand Court Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$1.30 75cl bottle of beer: US$3.50 Financial Times newspaper: US$.50 36-exposure colour film: US$4.95 City-centre bus ticket: US$2.00 Adult football ticket: US$45-55 Three-course meal with wine/beer: US$25-40 1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.63; C$1.51; A$1.67; €0.93 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.