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Excursions For a Half Day Vysehrad: No other site is as imbued with as much national history as the fortress at Vysehrad, three kilometres (two miles) south of the centre of Prague. Although recent archaeological evidence does not bear out the traditional theory that this was the first site settled by the Slavic tribes, it clearly indicates that in the 11th and 12th centuries Vysehrad was of far greater importance than the castle. Although the neo-Gothic (1880s) church of sv. Petr a Pavel (Saints Peter and Paul) is closed to the public, the facade has stunning carvings. Adjacent to the church is the Slavín Cemetery, the final resting place for Czech artists, scientists and academics – an indication of the respect in which they have always been held (no politicians or soldiers are buried here). The often highly artistic graves include those of Smetana, Dvorák and Mucha. Within the suburb of Vyshrad itself, are the Cubist villas, located on Neklanova and Rasínovo nábrezí. The architect Josef Chochol’s designs remain a unique feature of Czech Cubism. Vysehrad can be reached on metro and tram 17 (visitors should alight before the road tunnels). Until the metro system is back in operation (probably spring 2003), the X-C bus connects the tourist section of Prague with Vysehrad, stopping at Hlavi nadrazi, Muzeum and I P Pavlova. Vysehrad National Cultural Monument, V Pevnost 159 (tel: (02) 4141 0348 or 10247; e-mail: vysehrad@zris.mepnet.cz; website: www.praha-vysehrad.cz) provides further information. Troja (Trojský zámek): Prague’s only chateau, Troja (tel: (02) 689 0716), was built by the Sternbeck family in the late 17th century, as a paean to the reigning Hapsburg dynasty. Located in the north of the city, much of the rich Baroque interior decoration celebrates the Hapsburgs, notably Leopold I’s victories over the Turks. The exquisite formal gardens lead down to the river, where rowing boats are available for hire (May-October). Visitors can reach Troja by bus 112 from metro Holesovice nádrazí or a pleasant half-hour walk along the banks of the Vltava. Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday 1000-1800 (April to October) and Saturday and Sunday 1000-1700 (November to March). Admission is Kc100 (free on the first Tuesday of the month). As of 1 November 2002, parts of the zoo in Troja are still currently closed, as a result of the August floods. Visitors should check in advance before planning a trip there. For a Whole Day Kutná Hora: Now a World Heritage Site, located 65km (40 miles) east of Prague, Kutná Hora came to prominence in the late 13th century, as a centre for silver mining. With the founding of the Royal Mint in 1308, a boom town economy developed and until the veins were exhausted, the town was second only to Prague in importance. The principal point of interest is the extraordinary Gothic Cathedral of St Barbara, with its tent-like roof supported by three needle spires. Like many of the monuments in Prague, the cathedral design came from the workshop of Peter Parler. The building was financed by the miners’ guilds to honour their patron saint. For a taste of what the miners endured, the Hrádek in Barborská Czech Silver Museum offers tours into the mines (protective clothing is supplied). Kutná Hora’s main station is located in the suburb of Sedlec – linked to Prague by trains from Hlavní nádrazí or fast trains from Masasykov nádrazí, on Wolsonova at the eastern end of Hyberská (journey time – approximately 1 hour). Visitors must change to the local train for the town itself. There is also a bus to Sedlec from outside metro Zelivského. Although most tourists pass swiftly through the dreary suburb of Sedlec, located three kilometres (two miles) northeast of the Kutná Hora town centre, it is worth walking from the train station to view the macabre ossuary on Zámecká ul. Part of the Cistercian Abbey complex – now the largest tobacco factory in Central Europe – the graveyard became internationally famous when Abbot Jindrich returned from Jerusalem with a pot of soil from Golgotha, believed to confer miraculous properties of preservation. Demand for burial came from as far away as Belgium and with the plague of 1318 adding another 30,000 bodies, it became necessary to add a crypt to hold all the bones. The noble Schwarzenberg family acquired the property in 1784. In 1870 they commissioned a local woodcarver to organise the remains. The resulting sculptures, chandeliers and even the Schwarzenberg crest must be seen to be believed. Visitors can reach the monastery with the ossuary by bus 1 or 4 from the town centre. Kutná Hora has a particularly good selection of pictorial signs pointing to all the sights. The Tourist Information Office, Palackého námestí 377 (tel: (0327) 512 378; website: www.kutnahora.cz), and the Cultural and Information Centre of Kutná Hora, Sankturin House, Palackého náměsti 377 (tel: (327) 515 556; fax: (327) 512 378; e-mail: infocentrum@kutnohorsko.cz; website: www.kutnohorsko.cz/aktuality.html) provide further information. Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad): Founded in 1358, the Czech Republic’s largest spa town, situated along the river Tepla, has long been a place of decadent extravagance, celebrity visitors and clandestine liaisons. The numerous spas and hotels reflect the past glory of the town. The grandest of all is the Grand Hotel Pupp, said to be the most elegant in the country. The town can be exceptionally crowded with tourists, especially during high season. Transport to Karlovy Vary is by bus from Florenc station (journey time – 2 hours 30 minutes) or train from Hlavní nádrazí (journey time – 4 hours). Further information is available from Kur-Info, Vrídelní kolonada, Karlovy Vary (tel: (017) 322 9312; website: www.karlovyvary.cz). |
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