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USACity Overview ‘The City of One Hundred Towers and Spires’ and ‘Golden Prague’ are names that evoke the many aspects of this fascinating Czechoslovakian city. Its rich architectural heritage largely results from centuries of escaping the worst ravages of war and, more recently, nature. Maintenance, especially of the painted stucco exteriors, is a constant process. Under the Communists, Prague was the showplace of the Warsaw Pact, although in a muted fashion. Since the 1989 Velvet Revolution, the capital has thrown off decades of oppression and is now returning to its former glory. Prague recently has suffered some setback, however, with devastating floods in August 2002 causing much damage to the carefully preserved city. It is difficult to realise the extent of the damage caused by the floods of 28 August 2002. As of October 2002, water levels on Kampa Island were between eight and nine feet but now many of the residents have returned and at least one hotel and a couple of cafés have reopened. There are still tourist areas where the streets have been torn up but one could assume that this was part of the normal upkeep of roads. The army did much of the work of clearing up and they did a superb job. The tourist areas were the first to be restored and much work remains to be done, especially in areas like the Eighth District. Large parts of the metro are closed (See Getting Around) and some tourist attractions have been shut down, either through water damage or the need to clean cellars and ground floors after their being exposed to polluted water. Many basements of concert halls, such as the Rudolfinum, were affected, often with the loss of all recording equipment. However, many of these are back in action, at least as concert venues. It will be at least six months to a year before Prague is (almost) completely back to normal. But in the meantime, both the residents and the tourists are coping well with the difficulties that remain. Situated in the valley of the Vltava (Moldau) River, Prague is dominated by the castle perched on the Western bluffs. Visitors are drawn to the ‘fairy tale’ aspect of the city but this is only part of its vibrant mixture of styles. Prague is unquestionably a city that is best explored on foot – the entire centre has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Gothic churches rub shoulders with Cubist, Functionalist and ultra-modern buildings, classical music intermingles with jazz and rock, while monumental statues sit next to abstract works and even a Cubist lamppost. Prague’s present form was established by the Premyslid King Otakar II (1253-78), when the town was re-organised into three administrative districts – the Castle precincts (Hradcany), the Lesser Town below the Castle (Mála Strana) and Old Town (Staré Mesto). Across the river, the Jewish community was moved from Lesser Town to the Josefov ghetto, to provide room for German traders. The city’s golden age commenced when Charles IV of Bohemia was elected Holy Roman Emperor in 1346. The ambitious Gothic building programme –including St Vitus Cathedral, the Charles Bridge, the University, and the New Town (Nové Mesto) centred on Wenceslas Square – transformed the city into one of the greatest and most powerful in Europe. In reaction to Hapsburg rule, Czech nationalism re-asserted itself in the late 18th century. Throughout the 19th century, the development of a nationalistic architectural style brought further changes. Later still, the Jewish ghetto was razed to make way for Art Nouveau buildings. At the end of World War I, Czechoslovakia gained its independence. Freed from the censorship and constraints of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Prague blossomed as new artistic styles were embraced and developed – Cubism, Art Deco and Functionalism found a niche in its arts and architecture. Strong influences came from America as Prague was ripe for the importation of Jazz Age popular culture. Parallels with the 1990s are inescapable – in both cases, Prague took what it wanted, while retaining its unique identity. Not even decades of Nazi and Communist suppression successfully stifled the Czech spirit. Prague dramatically threw off stark social realism and, in the 1990s, reclaimed its reputation for cultural excellence. Prague remains one of the most popular destinations for backpackers, still being relatively cheap, although the gap between European prices grows less each year. Recent changes to the laws regarding foreign workers have made it difficult for non-Czechs to find work but, although the ‘great days’ as a centre for expatriates may have passed, a substantial number still remain, the majority of who are generally serious about work and the arts. The best times to visit Prague are in the early spring and the late autumn – after the majority of tourists have left. If the cold isn’t a problem, the winter months are the quietest time. Prague has a generally mild climate, although very high and low temperatures can be encountered. Autumn is the season with the highest rainfall. As one of the European cities of culture for the year 2000, Prague chose the theme of urban transformation – an idea that will continue for a number of years, as it looks forward to its exciting role in the new century. Language Czech is one of the Western Slavonic languages, distinguished from its neighbours (like Polish) by a series of diacritical marks introduced by the religious reformer Jan Hus in about 1410, including háceks (little hooks), which change the pronunciation of letters. Under Hapsburg rule (1620-1918), Czech was firmly suppressed; the language was revived as part of the nationalist movement in the nineteenth century. Slightly less daunting than it looks, almost all Czech words are stressed on the first syllable. The most difficult sound is the ‘r’ with the hácek above it (pronounced ‘rzh’) – which even Czech children have to be taught to pronounce correctly. English is rapidly becoming the second language, especially among the younger generation, and the majority of tourist services will have at least one English speaker on the staff. The older generation will be more likely to speak German. Moments of communication breakdown will arise from time to time but they will always be good-humoured. Problems can arise in Prague with the shortening of ‘ano’ (yes) to ‘no’. Phrases Yes - Ano (often shortened to ‘No’) No - Ne Hello - Dobrý den Goodbye - Na shledanou Please - Prosím Thank you - Dekuji My name is … - Mé jméno je … How are you? - Jak se máte? I’m quite well - Jde to I feel ill - Je mi spatne How much does it cost? - Kolik to stojí? Do you speak English? - Mluvíte anglicky? I don’t understand - Nerozumím Where is … ? - Kde je … ? Entrance - Vchod Exit - Vychod Danger / Warning! - Nebezpeci / Pozor! Open - Otevreno Closed - Zavreno Toilets - Záchod / WC Doctor - Lékar Hotel - Hotel Restaurant - Restaurace Beer - Pivo Wine - Víno Menu - Listek Today - Dnes Tomorrow - Vcera Monday - Pondelí Tuesday - Úterý Wednesday - Streda Thursday - Ctvrtek Friday - Pátek Saturday - Sibita Sunday - Nedele One - Jeden Two - Dva Three - Tri Four - Ctyri Five - Pet Six - Sest Seven - Sedm Eight - Osm Nine - Devet Ten - Deset Twenty - Dvacet Thirty - Tricet Forty - Ctyricet Fifty - Padesát Sixty - Sedesát Seventy - Sedmdesát Eighty - Osmdesát Ninety - Devadesát One Hundred - Sto One Thousand - Tisíc Getting There By Air Praha Ruzyne International Airport (PRG) Tel: (02) 201 13304. Fax: (02) 201 15301. Website: www.csl.cz/en Ruzyne Airport is situated approximately 20km (12.5 miles) northwest of Prague. There is only one terminal. Modernisation and expansion of the existing facilities was completed in 1997, although work continues on upgrading the airport’s capacity. Praha Ruzyne International provides reasonably good links with Western and Eastern Europe. All passengers on direct flights to London are required to first go to the British Consulate Office, located at the far right of the check-in hall. Passports and visas must be given for inspection at this time. Major airlines: The Czech Republic’s national carrier, CSA (tel: (02) 2480 6111; website: www.csa.cz), operates international and domestic flights from Ruzyne airport. CSA flies to major cities in Europe and the Middle East, as well as to New York, Chicago, Montreal, Toronto, Bangkok and Singapore. Domestic flights are to Ostrava. International airlines serving Prague include Air Canada, Alitalia, Air France, Austrian Airlines, British Airways, British Midland Airways, Delta, Go (now part of EasyJet), KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines, Lufthansa and SAS. Approximate flight times to Prague: From London is 1 hour 50 minutes; from New York is 11 hours; from Los Angeles varies from 17 hours 30 minutes to 19 hours; from Toronto is 10 hours 20 minutes and from Sydney is between 21 hours 15 minutes and 28 hours. Airport facilities: Facilities include a post office, banks, bureaux de change, an accommodation agency, restaurant, shops and even a duty-free casino. Car hire is available from Alamo (tel: (02) 2010 43534), Avis (tel: (02) 2010 44370), Budget (tel: (02) 2010 43253), Europcar (tel: (02) 2010 43207), Hertz (tel: (02) 2010 44340) and Rent-A-Car (tel: (02) 2010 44370). Business facilities: The airport VIP Service (tel: (02) 2011 4499 or 3562; fax: (02) 2011 4372) hires out lounges and two meeting rooms (seating up to 25). Diners Club operates a business lounge with phone, fax and Internet access, for members and guests only. Arrival and departure tax: None. Transport to the city: Shuttle minibus services to the city centre are provided every half-hour 0530-2130, by Cedaz (tel: (02) 2011 4296; fax: (02) 2011 4286; website: www.aas.cz/cedaz), at a cost of Kc90, including one piece of luggage (journey time – 30 minutes). Bus 119 (see Getting Around) goes to metro Dejvická (Line A) and operates every ten minutes 0430-2330. Tickets cost Kc12 and are available for purchase from the newspaper stand or the machine in front of the terminal. FIX s.r.o. taxis (tel: (02) 2011 3892) are expensive and will charge between Kc120-Kc870 depending on city zones (approximately Kc770 to the centre). Other taxis are often unreliable and visitors should avoid these. Getting There By Road Motorways (limited in number) are marked ‘D’ and international routes by ‘E’. Minor roads are designated by a number of two or more digits. An annual toll of Kc1000 (Kc200 for a month and Kc100 for ten days) must be paid to use Czech roads – toll stickers must be displayed and can be bought at border crossings, post offices and petrol stations. The legal driving age is 18. Traffic drives on the right. Speed limits are 60kph (37 mph) in built-up areas, 90kph (56 mph) on main roads and 110kph (68 mph) on motorways. Seatbelts are compulsory for drivers and passengers, front and rear (if fitted). On-the-spot fines are high for all motoring offences. There is zero tolerance for drink and drugs (drivers are expected to have a 0% alcohol to blood ratio). EU licence holders must have an International Driving Permit (IDP) as well as the pink format EU licence. An IDP is required for drivers from all other countries. A car registration document and country sticker are also necessary. Third party liability insurance is compulsory. For drivers based in the Czech Republic for longer than six months, the car must be registered with the Czech authorities – duty and taxes will cost about half the value of the car and minimum third-party coverage with a Czech insurer is also required. 24-hour emergency phone lines are situated every two kilometres (1.24 miles) on motorways and international routes. Both the Ústredmí Automotoklub – ÚAMK, Central Automobile Club (tel: (02) 6110 4111) and the Autoklub Ceské Republicky – ABA, Czech Automobile Club (tel: 1240; website www.autoklub.com) have reciprocal agreements with many automobile associations and provide 24-hour breakdown service. Emergency breakdown services: Ústrední Automotoklub (ÚAMK) 154, 123 or (02) 6110 4111 Autoklub Ceské Republicky (ABA) 1240 Routes to the city: The main routes to Prague are the D1/D2 to Brno (travellers should avoid the D2/D1 route via Bratislava, as foreigners may experience long delays at the Slovak border). From Belgium, the best route is the E40 to Cologne, then the E31 to Heidelberg and the E50, crossing the German/Czech border at Waidhaus/Rozvodov. From Vienna, the E59 leads to the D1 motorway, the E55 from Dresden and Berlin, the E67 from Wroc³aw and Warsaw and the E50 from Paris. Approximate driving times to Prague: From Vienna – 4 hours 15 minutes; from Warsaw – 10 hours 15 minutes; from Bruges – 12 hours 30 minutes. Coach services: International buses depart either from the Florenc coach station, Krizikova 8, Prague 8 (conveniently located on both metro lines B and C at Florenc station), or from the coach park at Zelivského station (on metro A), located on the corner of Vinohradská and Jana Zelivského, Prague 3. Kingscourt Express (tel: (02) 2423 4583; website www.kce.cz) is the main bus service provider to Western Europe and the UK. For many destinations within the Czech Republic, coaches are far quicker than trains, which tend to stop at every station. Regional services are provided by the state-run company, CSAD (tel: (02) 221 445; website: www.csadbus.cz). Buses depart from a number of stations and the most convenient place for travellers to get information and purchase bus tickets is at Cedok (see Tourist Information). Getting There By Rail Ceské dráhy – CD (tel: (02) 2422 4200, for timetable information or 2461 5249, for ticket prices; website: www.cdrail.cz), manages Prague’s railways and stations. The antiquated stock is a pleasure to travel in and the rail system still displays a great deal of the old Austrian pride in the system – a hangover from the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which was famous for its coverage of the empire, the comfort of its trains and their running on time. Even communist rule could not eradicate the pride the railroad takes in its service. Rychlick (also express and spesny) trains only stop at major towns and cities. Osobnyvlak are local trains that stop everywhere and average about 30km (19 miles) an hour. Trains are reliable and usually run on time. In many instances, however, buses will be faster, due to routing. The two main international terminals – Hlavní nádrazí (main station), Wilsonova, Prague 2, and Holesovice nádrazí, Vrbenského, Prague 7 – have exchange facilities and tourist information services. Lockers and 24-hour left luggage facilities are available at all stations. Rail services: Direct rail links connect Prague with more than 20 European cities, including Munich (journey time – 5 hours), Vienna (journey time – 5 hours 30 minutes), Berlin (journey time – 5 hours 30 minutes) and Paris (journey time – 10 hours). International trains arrive at Hlavní nádrazí (main station) and Holesovice nárdazí (see above). Masarykovo nádrazí, Hybernská, Prague 1, is the main station for trains to Moravia and Slovakia, Praha-Smíchov (Smíchovské nádrazí), Prague 5, for trains to the south of Bohemia, and Praha-Vysocany, Prague 5, for eastern Bohemia (tram 3 connects to Masarykovo nádrazí). Seat reservations are strongly recommended on all services. Transport to the city: The main station is only a short walk from the city centre, however, the surrounding park can be very dangerous, especially after dark. It is therefore advisable for visitors to take the metro. Getting Around Public Transport Prague’s inexpensive and efficient transport system is run by Dopravno podníku Prahy – DP (tel: (02) 2264 0103, website: www.dp-praha.cz). The network includes the metro, trams, buses and the funicular on Petrín Hill. Public transport is an integrated 24-hour system – daytime services run from 0500 to 2400, when night trams and buses take over. There are three metro lines (A green, B yellow and C red). There are three interchanges – Muzeum (A and C), Mustek (A and B) and Florenc (B and C). Trains run at two-minute intervals 0500-2000 on weekdays and at five- to ten-minute intervals at all other times. However, much of the section of the metro serving tourist areas was badly damaged by the floods and will probably not be back to normal before late spring 2003. Meanwhile two tram lines (X-A and X-B) and a new bus service (X-C) have replaced the metro. Tram X-A – the most important for tourists – travels from beyond Dejvice, through Hradcany (the castle area), Mala Strana (the lower town), over the Vlitava and past the National Theatre, through I P Pavlova, Namesti Miru out to Kubanske namesti. Tram X-B runs from Hloubetin to Smichovske Nadrazi – the most important section links Karlova Namesti, Narodi trida, Namesti Republiky and Vltavska. Meanwhile the X-C bus runs from the Nadrazi Holesovice train station, past the main train station Hlavni Nadrazi, through Muzum, I P Pavlova (where it meets the X-A tram) and on to Vysehrad and Prazskeho Povstani. Tickets (jízdenky) must be purchased in advance and stamped on entering trams and buses and the transport area of the metro. These are valid for all forms of public transport and can be purchased at station ticket machines, most tobacconists, information centres and any shops displaying the red and yellow DP sticker. Two tickets are available. The Kc8 ticket allows one ride of up to four stops on the metro or a 15-minute ride above ground without transfers (not valid on night buses, the funicular or historical tram). The Kc12 ticket is valid on all forms of transport, including transfers, for one hour at peak times or 90 minutes at all other times. The on-the-spot fine for travelling without a valid ticket is Kc400. A funicular railway (lanovka) runs every 10-15 minutes 0915-2045, carrying passengers from Újezd in the Lesser Town to the top of Petrín Hill. Tickets cost Kc12. Travel passes cost Kc70 for 24-hours, Kc180 for three days, Kc250 for a week and Kc280 for 15 days. A tourist version of the three-day pass, the Tourist Pass, costing Kc690, also allows entrance to 42 tourist attractions (see Tourist Information). Taxis Many taxi firms are controlled by organised crime, unregistered drivers are widespread and most of the horror stories about exorbitant fares are both true and all too frequent. Taxis are best avoided at all times, especially at taxi ranks. However, for those who do wish to take the risk, ProfiTaxi (tel: (02) 2213 5551), with English-speaking drivers, are usually safe. Travellers can expect to pay Kc30 for a street pick up and Kc25 for a call up. Fares are charged at Kc22 per kilometre. Officially licensed taxis are required by law to have a meter – if the driver refuses to switch it on, travellers are strongly advised to find another cab. Passengers normally round up to the nearest Kc10, at the least. An additional amount of 8-10% of the fare could be tipped for exceptional service. Limousines Limousine hire is offered by Limousine Car Spiritka, Susická 21, Praha 6 (tel/fax: (02) 2431 3733; e-mail: cinek@applet.cz; website: www.beourguest-limousine.com), and Limusina Car Servis, Krkonosská 11, Praha 2 (tel: (02) 627 3734; fax (02) 627 3734; website: http://members.a-zprague.cz/lcs) where rates, including chauffeur, start at Kc200 per hour. There is a minimum hire of three hours. Driving in the City Cobbled streets, tram lines and erratic drivers all contribute to make driving in Prague an unpleasant experience. In addition to this, the historic centre of the city is pedestrianised. Parking is a major problem and it is usually best for tourists to leave the car in the secure hotel car park and use public transport. Illegally parked cars will either be clamped or towed away, with retrieval costing at least Kc1000 (tel: 158). There are three parking zones – orange, for stays of up to two hours (Kc40 per hour), green, for stays up to six hours (Kc30 per hour) and blue, which is for residents and businesses only. Cars should be locked and alarmed, valuables or radios should not be on display inside. To discourage driving in the centre of the city, the city transport authority has set up a series of parking lots with direct links to the underground. Indicated by a P+R (park and ride) sign, these parking lots are guarded and charge a flat rate of Kc10. These include Praha 4, Hrncirska (C-line, Opatov station), Praha 5, Radlicka (B-line, Radlicka station), Praha 5, Zlicin (B-line, Zlicin station), Praha 7, Holesovice railway station (C-line, Nadrazi Holesovice station), Praha 9, Chlumecka (B-line, Rajska zahrada and Cerny most stations) and Praha 10, V Rybnickach (A-line, Skalka station). Car Hire Car hire is expensive in Prague and, given the pedestrianisation of the city centre, not really necessary other than for trips out-of-town. Those looking to hire a car should arrange this before arriving, which will guarantee availability and avoid language difficulties. Clients must be over 21 and must have held a full driving license for at least a year. Driving licence (including IDP), passport and a credit card for the deposit are required. Car hire prices generally include collision damage waiver, theft protection and third party coverage. Car hire is available at Ruzyne airport, Cedok, American Express offices and many large hotels. Major companies include Avis, Klimentská 46, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2185 1225; website: www.avis.cz), Budget, Cistovicka 100, Prague 6 (tel: (02) 302 5713; website: www.budget.cz) and Hertz, Karlovo námestí 28, Prague 2 (tel: (02) 291 851; website: www.hertz.cz). Local companies include Auitopelant, Patockova 43, Prague 6 (tel/fax: (02) 3335 3157; website: www.autopelant.cz), Czechocar, Na prikope 23, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2011 3454; e-mail: rent@czechocar.cz), Cenik Royal Rent, Opetalova, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2224 7515; website: www.royalrent.cz), Dvorak, Prague Hotel Hilton (tel: (02) 2482 6260; website: www.dvorak-rentacar.cz), First, Vaclavske Namesti 37, Prague 1 (tel: (0604) 262 666; website: www.1r.cz), and Toscar, Novovysocanska st. 2a, Prague 9 (tel: (02) 6631 5586; website: www.toscar.cz). Local companies charge from Kc700 to Kc2000, while international companies charge higher rates from Kc2300 to Kc7000. Bicycle Hire With a combination of high pollution, unsympathetic drivers and no cycle lanes, cycling in Prague is not recommended. Nevertheless, bicycle hire and group tours of Prague are available from City Bike, Kralodvorska 5 (tel: (02) 7761 80284; e-mail: citybike@pragueonline.cz; website: www.pragueonline.cz/citybike), located not far from the Old Town Square. Rates are Kc400 per day with a Kc4000 deposit. Business Business Profile The Czech Republic’s principal industries are power engineering and fuels, metallurgy, engineering, glass, wood and armaments. The rapidly growing service industry is a major source of income, with the related tourist industry providing enough invisible income to help redress the trade deficit. Global recession in 1996 revealed just how fragile the Czech ‘economic miracle’ actually was. Increased domestic demand and poor export performance have generated a growing deficit. Prague is the centre of Czech business – 20% of the country’s GDP is created here – although there is no particular central business district and companies are located in all parts of the city and suburbs. As heavy engineering moves outside the city, service – financial, retail and telecommunications – and manufacturing – electrical, transport and food processing – industries are becoming increasingly prevalent. Companies to base their Czech or Eastern European Headquarters in Prague include ABB, Siemens and Philips. Megalithic conglomerates, largely unchanged from their days as nationalised industries, have been a constant drain on bank reserves. Banks were hit by the collapse of the Russian economy in 1999, through exposure to bad debts in the former USSR. Banks are still overly cautious about making loans without sound collateral and sources of venture capital are still very narrow. This has led to a squeeze on the small and medium enterprises (SMEs), which should be at the heart of a dynamic economy. Preparations for admission to the EU have also contributed to the fragility of the economy and the target date of 2004 has been called into question. The EU have identified four main problem areas: the need to reform financial markets, weak disclosure rules and a lack of enforcement have led them to be plagued by insider dealing; the restructuring of the banking system; tightening of national borders to cut down on smuggling; and the need to deal with the rights of the Roma (gypsy) minority. Current unemployment in the Czech Republic stands at approximately 9.2%, although this is set to rise once the effects of the floods are fully known. The strong Czeck Koruna is also a factor – although good from the standpoint of tourism (and therefore certainly for the Prague economy), exports, especially to the United States, have fallen by about 16% in 2002. Prague’s rate of unemployment is only around 3%. Unemployment figures show wide regional variations and some regions of the country, notably those in coal mining and steel production areas, are above 20%. The coal region of Most is above 25%. All is not gloom, however, since much of the Czech workforce is well trained (and willing to retrain), intelligent and hard working. Opportunities for venture capital investment, especially in the SMEs, could reap rich rewards, while low share prices offer attractive bargains. Large conglomerates are being broken up and the companies that emerge should be leaner and better able to compete in a global market. Business Etiquette By and large the Czechs are a warm people who greatly value hospitality. In some instances, when dining, it will emerge that the bill has quietly been settled. If this happens, business visitors should accept gracefully (considering the disparity in Czech and Western wages, this may also be a matter of personal pride) and try to find some later means of showing appreciation. Czech society is still largely male dominated and, especially with older businessmen, it is unheard of for a woman to pay for a meal, even if she is the senior member of the team. If invited to dine at a colleague’s home, a small gift is appropriate – a bottle of wine and flowers are best. When offering or accepting a lift with a business colleague, the favoured location is the backseat. Initial business meetings are often serious affairs, during which even business partners refer to each other by title and surname. The use of forenames is a mark of friendship, however, using them without permission is seen as insulting or demeaning. Degrees are considered important and should always be used in addressing correspondence (only the doctorate is used in direct address). Meetings can take longer than expected and be more formal than the average Western businessperson is accustomed to. However, as the old communist bureaucratic ways give ground to capitalism, business lunches and such meetings are gaining popularity, especially with the younger generation of business movers. However, one should not expect work-related meals to be the norm. Office hours are generally 0830-1700 and punctuality is essential – colleagues should be informed of any unavoidable delays. Dress is conservative for older businesses, businessmen and women, while new companies tend to be more relaxed. A jacket and tie for men or smart suit for women is a good bet for first time business visitors. A firm handshake and maintaining eye contact are seen as signs of honesty and sincerity, while overloud talking and interrupting are construed as attempts to obscure issues. At first meetings, business cards will be echanged and an offer of coffee or drinks is common. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Wenceslas Square, the Old Town Square and the Charles Bridge serve as the three main navigation points for tourists. The bridge links the Lesser Town and the Castle above with the Old and New Towns. The central tourist area is comprised of five sections – Hradcany is the Castle precinct, with Malá Strana (Little Town) at its foot, across the Charles Bridge lie Staré Mesto (Old Town), with Josefov (the Jewish Quarter) to the north and Nové Mesto (New Town) to the south. The ‘Royal Road’ – the route of major processions in the past – is the main tourist route across the city, beginning at the Powder Gate in námestí Republicky and continuing along Celetná to the Old Town Square. From there the road passes the Astronomical Clock and winds along Karlova to the Charles Bridge. Crossing the bridge it follows Mostecká through Malá Strana to the Baroque square at Malostranské námestí. Streets off the square lead to the long climb of stairs to the Castle. Námestí Republicky, with its magnificent Municipal House, Na príkope, leads to Wenceslas Square, the hub of shopping and nightlife. Museums and galleries are scattered throughout the city and even the suburbs. Further afield to the south lies Vysehrad (district 4), the site of the original settlement. Less frequented by tourists, the area has much to offer and provides a respite from the bustle of the city centre. Tourist Information Prazská informacní sluzba (PIS – Prague Information Service) Na príkope 20, Prague 1 Tel: (02) 12444 (general) or 2422 6090 (information). E-mail: tourinfo@pis.cz Website: www.prague-info.cz Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1900, Sat and Sun 0900-1700 (Apr-Oct); Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 0900-1500 (Nov-Mar). PIS branches can also be found in the Old Town Hall, Staromestké námestí, Prague 1, Celetna, Prague 1, Hlavní nádrazí (main train station), Wilsonova, Prague 1, and, in the summer, at Malostranská mostecká vex (Lesser Town Bridge Tower), Prague 1. Cedok Travel Agency Na príkope 18, Prague 1 Tel: (02) 2419 7637. Fax: (02) 2421 3786. E-mail: europe.incoming@cedok.cz or overseas.incoming@cedok.cz Website: www.cedok.cz Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1800, Sat 0830-1300. Passes A three-day Tourist Pass, costing Kc690, allows unlimited travel on the metro, trams and buses, as well as admission to 42 major attractions, including Prague Castle, the National Museum and the Museum of Decorative Arts. Passes without the transport charges cost Kc400. These passes are available for purchase from tourist information centres and offices of the Prague Public Transit Company (DP). Key Attractions Karluv most (Charles Bridge) The construction of Prague’s most famous and most photographed location was begun in 1357, as part of Charles IV’s monumental building programme that included the Castle, St Vitus Cathedral and the University. All were supervised by the Swabian architect, Peter Parler (although the bridge construction is now known to have been begun by Master Otto). The bridge replaced the earlier Judita (Judith) bridge, the only surviving remnant of which is the plainer of the two towers on the Malá Strana gate. The bridge itself is rather drab and it is the later statues – Jesuit additions during the Counter-Reformation – that flank it that have made it so visually stunning. The first of these – the Crucifixion – was erected in 1657, followed soon after by the only bronze statue, that of St John of Nepomuk (who was martyred after being thrown from the bridge). Most of the other statues of the saints – carved from local sandstone, by Maximilian Brokoff and Matthias Bernhard – were added between 1706 and 1714 (the latest was not added until 1928). Due to pollution, most have been replaced and the originals are housed in the Lapidarium in Letná Park. Many tourists wonder about the wooden constructions at the base of the pilings on the upriver side – these protect against ice floes and logjams during the spring melt off. The fully pedestrianised bridge serves as a focal point for tourists. Artists and craftsmen’s pitches line the bridge, while buskers of all descriptions – from Dixieland jazz bands to puppeteers – provide a constant source of entertainment and often congestion. Work on making the bridge fully weather resistant will begin in 2003. The first stages of this will concentrate on research and some work under the bridge arches. Staré Mesto (Old Town) Transport: Metro Staromestske; tram 17, 18, 51 or 54. Prazský Hrad (Prague Castle) From almost any part of Prague, the Castle, perched on the ridge in Hradcany, dominates the skyline. Entering under the Battling Titan statues, the sheer size of the complex – with three courtyards, fortifications and gardens, almost a small town in its own right – is most striking. Given the wealth of architecture, state apartments, churches, galleries and gardens, it is impossible for one to see everything in a single day. Katedrála sv. Víta (St Vitus Cathedral), the country’s largest church, takes up most of the third courtyard. Inspired by the Gothic cathedral at Narbonne, work commenced in 1344, however, reflecting the changing fortunes of the Czechs, was not completed until 1929. The finest of the 22 side chapels is that built to hold the relics of St Wenceslas – the gilded walls are inlaid with hundreds of semiprecious stones that frame the luminous 14th-century paintings. The overly ornate Baroque tomb of St John of Nepomuk, was the work of the Jesuits intent on promoting this martyr as the Czech patron saint in opposition to Wenceslas. The Coronation Chamber displays the Bohemian crown jewels but is only infrequently open to the public. The Crypt is the resting place of most of the Kings and Queens of Bohemia. Bazilika sv. Jirí (St George’s Basilica) is a marvel of Romanesque architecture. Founded in 970, it was rebuilt in the 12th century and acquired its present Baroque facade in the 16th century. The chapel dedicated to Saint Ludmilla, the first Czech martyr, is particularly fine. Kláster sv. Jirí (St George Convent), the oldest monastery in the country, was founded in 973, for Benedictine nuns. It now houses a remarkable collection of early Czech art, from the Gothic to Baroque periods. In the Castle Gardens, the Belvedere is Prague’s finest Renaissance building. Built in the 1530s, as a summerhouse for Queen Anne, it now houses a changing programme of exhibitions. Zlatá ulicka (Golden Lane), with its 16th-century houses built into the fortifications, derives its name from being the residences of the court alchemists. Hradcanské námestí, Prague 1 Tel: (02) 2437 3368. E-mail: fedos@hrad.cz (tickets and guides) Website: www.hrad.cz Transport: Tram 22 or X-A to Prazsky hrad; metro to Hradcany (from Spring 2003). Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (May-Oct); daily 0900-1600 (Nov-May). Admission: Kc220 (castle); free (grounds). Staromestké námestí (Old Town Square) The 12th-century Old Town Square is the focal point for tourists. Stalls selling crafts line the perimeter and horse-drawn carriages await those wishing to take a tour of the historic centre. In summer, tables spill out from the restaurants, while in December, the square hosts the city’s largest Christmas Market. The centre is dominated by the monumental memorial to the 14th-century religious reformer, Jan Hus. The Prague Meridian is also found here, designating kilometre zero, from which all distances in the city are measured. All of the palaces, churches and houses around the square are of major historical interest. The Gothic Staromestská radnice (Old Town Hall) with its Astronomical Clock is a must for visitors. It strikes hourly (0900-2100), when the upper portion – dating to the early 15th century – reveals the Apostles at two windows. Just off the square, to the east, is the superb Gothic Chrám Matky Bozí pred Týnem (Tyn Church), where the tomb of the astronomer, Tycho Brahe, is found. Staré Mesto (Old Town) Transport: Metro Staromestske; tram 17 or 18. Josefov (Jewish Quarter) Until the end of the 19th century, the area north of the Old Town Square constituted the Jewish Ghetto – much of the area was cleared to make way for Art Nouveau buildings but some of the flavour still remains. A single ticket, available from the Jewish Museum, allows admission to the Zidovnická radnice (Jewish Town Hall), the Klausen, Maisel, Pinkas Synagogue, Spanish Synagogue, the Old Jewish Cemetery (in use from the 15th century until 1787) and Ceremonial Hall. A separate ticket is required for the 13th-century Starovoná synagoga (Old-New Synagogue), the oldest synagogue in Europe. As of 22 October 2002, the Pinkus Synagogue is closed to the public. Staré Mesto Transport: Metro Staromestká. Jewish Museum U Stare skoly 1, Prague 1 Tel: (02) 2481 9456. Fax: (02) 2481 9458. E-mail: office@jewishmuseum.cz Website: www.jewishmuseum.cz Opening hours: Mon-Fri and Sun 0930-1800 (Apr-Oct); Mon-Fri and Sun 0930-1630 (Nov-Mar). Admission: Kc250 (Jewish Museum sites); Kc200 (Old-New Synagogue). Obecní dum (Municipal House) The gem of Art Nouveau in Prague, Obecní dum, has been fully restored, after decades of neglect. Designed by A Balsánek and Osvald Polívka, all the major Czech artists made contributions during its construction (1905-11). However, even Karil Spillar’s striking mosaic and the sculptural group by Ladislav Saloun cannot prepare the visitor for the remarkable interiors. Most spectacular of the public areas, the Lord Mayor’s Room features murals by Alfons Mucha. The restaurant, café and the Amerikanský bar were also the work of Polívka. The centrepiece of the building is the Smetana Hall, home of the Prague Symphony Orchestra and one of the major venues for concerts during the Prague Spring festival. Guided tours are essential for visitors to see the rooms that are not open to the public. Námestí Republicky 5, Prague 1 Tel: (02) 2200 2101. Fax: (02) 2200 2100. E-mail: info@obecni-dum.cz Website: www.obecni-dum.cz Transport: Metro Republiky námesti; tram 5, 14 or 24. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (exhibition hall); daily 0730-2300 (café). Admission: Free; Kc150 (guided tours); approximately Kc60-100 (separate exhibitions). Václavské námestí (Wenceslas Square) Despite its name, Wenceslas Square is really a long boulevard. It was here, in 1989, the passive resistance culminating in the Velvet Revolution began. Today, the square is a bustling thoroughfare presenting the best and worst of post-communist Prague – from the fashionable and expensive stores to the prositutes and taxis controlled by organised crime rings. Nothing remains of the square’s earliest buildings, however, examples of architectural styles from the last 150 years line its frontage. The lower portion is pedestrianised and contains many of Prague’s largest stores – often of more interest architecturally than for their contents. News kiosks at the bottom end are the best place for one to purchase Czech and foreign language newspapers. Numerous arcades with winding passages (developed in the 1920s), in almost all instances, lead to or surround a cinema. Many are now being renovated to their original Art Deco splendour, chiefly to house trendy shops. The Lucerna (between Vodickova and Stepánská) is undoubtedly the finest if these arcades, housing a jazz/rock concert hall, cinema, excellent café and numerous small shops. Situated on the opposite side of Wenceslas Square, the Grand Hotel Evropa, number 25 (website: www.motylek.com/evropa), is a major landmark of the First Republic. The Evropa’s time has not yet returned and service is reminiscent of the communist period. Its faded splendour is best enjoyed briefly over coffee or tea. The focal point of the upper end of the square is J.V. Myslbek’s monumental bronze equestrian statue of the Pomník sv. Václav (St Wenceslas Memorial). The four surrounding statues are of national patron saints – Ludmilla, Procopius, Agnes and Vojtech (Adalbert). At the top of the square stands the Národní muzeum (National Museum). Founded in 1818, this houses the country’s oldest and largest collection of antiquities. Although the collections – dedicated to palaeontology, geology, zoology and anthropology – are primarily of interest to specialists, the building itself warrants a visit. Built in the neo-Renaissance style, the facade and interior decorations form a striking celebration of the history of Czechoslovakia. Nové Mesto (New Town) Transport: Metro Mustek (bottom) or Muzeum (top) Národní muzeum (National Museum) Václavské námestí 68, Prague 1 Tel: (02) 449 7111. Fax: (02) 224 6047. Website: www.nm.cz/english Transport: Metro Muzeum. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (May-Sept); daily 0900-1700 (Oct-Apr); closed first Tues of the month. Admission: Kc80; concessions available; free first Monday of the month. Further Distractions Umeleckoprumyslové Museum (Museum of Decorative Arts) Only a small fraction of the museum’s holding is on display but what is there makes a mockery of the distinction between fine and applied art. The fin-de-siècle building itself is a work of art and is divided into two floors. The ground floor hosts temporary exhibitions, while the top floor presents a wide range of crafts. Of particular interest and beauty are the Czech ceramics and glassware. Ulice 17. Listopada 2, Prague 1 Tel: (02) 2481 1241. E-mail: direct@upm-praha.anet.cz Website: www.knihovna.upm.cz Transport: Metro Staromestká; tram 17 or 18. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission: Kc40. Muchovo Muzeum (Mucha Museum) Celebrating the life of Czechoslovakia’s best-known artist, Alfons Mucha (1860-1934), this collection in the Kaunitz Palace includes many of his Paris posters, including those for performances by Sarah Bernhardt. Paintings, sketchbooks and a re-creation of his Paris studio are also on display. There is also a pleasant terrace café. Kaunický palac, Panská 7, Prague 1 Tel: (02) 628 4162. E-mail: museum@mucha.cz Website: www.mucha.cz Transport: Metro Mustek. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800. Admission: Kc120. Wax Museum Prague Another recently opened attraction, the Wax Museum Prague, presents a number of fascinating tableaux, including a medieval alchemical laboratory and a 19th-century street scene, complete with the figure of Franz Kafka. Small-scale 3D ‘pseudo-holographic’ films give an idea of media just over the horizon. Národní trída 25, Prague 1 Tel: (02) 2108 5217. E-mail: info@waxmuseum.cz. Website: www.waxmuseumprague.cz Transport: Metro Mustek. Opening hours: Daily 1000-2000. Admission: Kc120 (concessions available). Small and temporary museums Prague is constantly acquiring new museums, some for the summer season only. These are often strange and extremely interesting. Visitors must look for posters or leaflets in the tourist offices. Among the best to pop up at the moment are the Muzeum Komunismu (Museum of Communism), covering the 1948-1989 reign of communism in the city, Sex Machine Museum, an exposition of mechanical erotic appliances, and Prague, The Magic Town, which focuses on alchemy, magic and witchcraft in the city. Museum of Communism 1948-1989 Na prikope 10 (first floor) Tel: (02) 2421 2966. E-mail: muzeumkomunismu@muzeumkomunismu.cz Website: www.muzeumkomunismu.cz Transport: Metro Mustek. Opening hours: Daily 0900-2100. Admission: Kc250 (concessions available). Sex Machine Museum Melantrichova 18, Prague 1 (off the Old Town Square) Tel: (02) 2421 6505. Fax: (02) 2421 6513. E-mail: info@sexmachinesmuseum.com Website: www.sexmachinesmuseum.com Transport: Staromestké námestí metro. Opening hours: Daily 1000-0200. Admission: Kc250 (concessions available). Prague, The Magic Town Clam-Gallas Palace, corner of Husova 20 and Karlova Ulice, Praha 1 Tel: 6038 89361. E-mail: magic.exp@post.cz Transport: Staromestké námestí metro. Opening hours: daily 1000-2100. Admission: Kc250 (concessions available). Tours of the City Walking Tours A Guide to the Capital ‘The Silver Line Through Golden Prague’ guidebook, part of the Silver Line orientation system project (tel: (02) 7400 6565 or 06363; e-mail: info@admen.cz; website: www.silver-line.cz), is now available for Kc159 from Information Service Prague Offices (see Tourist Information) and bookshops. Relevant to the book are numerous silver arrows, placed on curbs throughout the tourist sections of the city, enabling tourists to plan an individual walking tour program, which is also linked to the metro stations, when in operation. A number of companies offer excellent walking tours of Prague, some with themes such as ghosts, Kafka and legends. Most charge approximately Kc300 for a two-hour tour. Leaflets are available at all tourist information service locations (see Tourist Information). Most tours start from beneath the Astrological Clock in the Old Town Square. Guides will hold up an umbrella of some colour so that people joining the tour can locate them. Prague Walks, Nezamyslova 7, Prague 2 (tel: (02) 612 14603; e-mail: pwalks@comp.cz; website: www.praguewalks.cz), offers scheduled themed walks, including the one-and-a-half hour Velvet Revolution Walk (Kc300), the one-hour Ghost Tour (Kc300) and the three-hour Zizkov Pub Walk (Kc250). Departure points vary depending on the tour but is usually underneath the Astronomical Clock in the Old Town Square or a nearby tram or metro station. Guides speak English, French, German, Russian and Spanish. The company also arranges personal guides for individual tours. Pragotur Guides Centre, Staromestké námestí 1, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2448 2562, fax: (02) 2448 2380; e-mail: guides.pis@volny.cz) also provides qualified guides who speak all European languages. City Walks (tel: (02) 2224 4531; website: www.praguewalkingtours.com) provides a number of walks, including bicycle and boat tours. Entertaining Walks of Prague (tel: (02) 7378 84745) offers a number of walks, as does Daily Walks of Prague (tel: (02) 8191 7642; website: www.walks.cz) and Prague Travel Ltd (tel: (02) 2251 6064; website: www.praguetravel.cz). Wittmann Tours (tel: (02) 2225 2472; website: www.wittmann-tours.com) specialises in tours of Jewish interest, both in the city and further afield. Bus Tours Prague Sightseeing Tours (tel: (02) 2231 4661 or 14655; e-mail: pstours@pstours.cz; website: www.pstours.cz) depart from námestí Republicky (Republic Square) and terminate in the city centre – free pick up from most four-star hotels can also be arranged. The Grand City Tour, which takes in all the major sights and includes a walking tour, takes three and a half hours and costs Kc590. The Getting Acquainted By Bus tour whips tourists around all the major sites – such as the National Museum, Wenceslas Square and the Hradcany Castle district – in two hours, for Kc280. All tours are in English and other major European languages on request. Bus tours of Prague and other tourist locations are also available through Best Tour (tel: (02) 2087 8947; website: www.besttour.cz) and Bohemia Travel Service (tel: (02) 2482 6262; website: www.citytours.cz). Numerous tours of the nearby castles, such as Karlstejn and Konopiste, are also available through Cedok, Na príkope 18, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2419 7637; fax: (02) 2421 3786; website: www.cedok.cz), travel agencies and booths and kiosks throughout the city. Other Tours Dopravní podnik hl. m. Prahy (tel/fax: (02) 312 3349 or 9612 4900; website: www.dp-praha.cz) offers tours around the city centre on the Historic Tram 91. The circular route runs from Výstaviste, through Malá Strana, across the Vltava to the National Theatre, through Wenceslas Square and returns to Výstaniste via námestí Republicky. The tram runs hourly 1300-2000 on Saturday, Sunday and holidays, from April to October. A ticket costs Kc25 (concessions available) and travellers can board at any stop en route – an entire round trip takes an hour. Prague Sightseeing Tours (tel: (02) 2231 4661 or 14655; e-mail: pstours@pstours.cz; website: www.pstours.cz) offers three special boat tours. A cruise on the Vltava River with lunch and music costs Kc750, taking passengers under the Charles Bridge on this two-and-a-half-hour trip. The two-hour cruise on the Vltava River with coffee and cake is cheaper, at Kc490, travelling past the Prague Castle District and Lesser Town. The Prague by Night tour, costing Kc1290, is three hours of onboard dining and cruising, before a one-hour coach trip to Prague’s most beautiful squares. All tours depart by coach from Republic Square. Fiacre tours of the centre of the Old Town are available in these horse-drawn taxis of the pre-car era. Fiacres are found along the west side of the Old Town Square and tours of 20 minutes cost approximately Kc600. Oldtimers (tel: (0737) 412 498; website: www.3oldtimers.com) offer the newest tours in Prague, in beautifully restored cars from the great age of Czech motoring, which took place between the two world wars. Drivers are suitably attired in 1930s costumes. A 20-minute tour costs Kc800 for one or two passengers or Kc1200 for three or four passengers. Excursions For a Half Day Vysehrad: No other site is as imbued with as much national history as the fortress at Vysehrad, three kilometres (two miles) south of the centre of Prague. Although recent archaeological evidence does not bear out the traditional theory that this was the first site settled by the Slavic tribes, it clearly indicates that in the 11th and 12th centuries Vysehrad was of far greater importance than the castle. Although the neo-Gothic (1880s) church of sv. Petr a Pavel (Saints Peter and Paul) is closed to the public, the facade has stunning carvings. Adjacent to the church is the Slavín Cemetery, the final resting place for Czech artists, scientists and academics – an indication of the respect in which they have always been held (no politicians or soldiers are buried here). The often highly artistic graves include those of Smetana, Dvorák and Mucha. Within the suburb of Vyshrad itself, are the Cubist villas, located on Neklanova and Rasínovo nábrezí. The architect Josef Chochol’s designs remain a unique feature of Czech Cubism. Vysehrad can be reached on metro and tram 17 (visitors should alight before the road tunnels). Until the metro system is back in operation (probably spring 2003), the X-C bus connects the tourist section of Prague with Vysehrad, stopping at Hlavi nadrazi, Muzeum and I P Pavlova. Vysehrad National Cultural Monument, V Pevnost 159 (tel: (02) 4141 0348 or 10247; e-mail: vysehrad@zris.mepnet.cz; website: www.praha-vysehrad.cz) provides further information. Troja (Trojský zámek): Prague’s only chateau, Troja (tel: (02) 689 0716), was built by the Sternbeck family in the late 17th century, as a paean to the reigning Hapsburg dynasty. Located in the north of the city, much of the rich Baroque interior decoration celebrates the Hapsburgs, notably Leopold I’s victories over the Turks. The exquisite formal gardens lead down to the river, where rowing boats are available for hire (May-October). Visitors can reach Troja by bus 112 from metro Holesovice nádrazí or a pleasant half-hour walk along the banks of the Vltava. Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday 1000-1800 (April to October) and Saturday and Sunday 1000-1700 (November to March). Admission is Kc100 (free on the first Tuesday of the month). As of 1 November 2002, parts of the zoo in Troja are still currently closed, as a result of the August floods. Visitors should check in advance before planning a trip there. For a Whole Day Kutná Hora: Now a World Heritage Site, located 65km (40 miles) east of Prague, Kutná Hora came to prominence in the late 13th century, as a centre for silver mining. With the founding of the Royal Mint in 1308, a boom town economy developed and until the veins were exhausted, the town was second only to Prague in importance. The principal point of interest is the extraordinary Gothic Cathedral of St Barbara, with its tent-like roof supported by three needle spires. Like many of the monuments in Prague, the cathedral design came from the workshop of Peter Parler. The building was financed by the miners’ guilds to honour their patron saint. For a taste of what the miners endured, the Hrádek in Barborská Czech Silver Museum offers tours into the mines (protective clothing is supplied). Kutná Hora’s main station is located in the suburb of Sedlec – linked to Prague by trains from Hlavní nádrazí or fast trains from Masasykov nádrazí, on Wolsonova at the eastern end of Hyberská (journey time – approximately 1 hour). Visitors must change to the local train for the town itself. There is also a bus to Sedlec from outside metro Zelivského. Although most tourists pass swiftly through the dreary suburb of Sedlec, located three kilometres (two miles) northeast of the Kutná Hora town centre, it is worth walking from the train station to view the macabre ossuary on Zámecká ul. Part of the Cistercian Abbey complex – now the largest tobacco factory in Central Europe – the graveyard became internationally famous when Abbot Jindrich returned from Jerusalem with a pot of soil from Golgotha, believed to confer miraculous properties of preservation. Demand for burial came from as far away as Belgium and with the plague of 1318 adding another 30,000 bodies, it became necessary to add a crypt to hold all the bones. The noble Schwarzenberg family acquired the property in 1784. In 1870 they commissioned a local woodcarver to organise the remains. The resulting sculptures, chandeliers and even the Schwarzenberg crest must be seen to be believed. Visitors can reach the monastery with the ossuary by bus 1 or 4 from the town centre. Kutná Hora has a particularly good selection of pictorial signs pointing to all the sights. The Tourist Information Office, Palackého námestí 377 (tel: (0327) 512 378; website: www.kutnahora.cz), and the Cultural and Information Centre of Kutná Hora, Sankturin House, Palackého námìsti 377 (tel: (327) 515 556; fax: (327) 512 378; e-mail: infocentrum@kutnohorsko.cz; website: www.kutnohorsko.cz/aktuality.html) provide further information. Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad): Founded in 1358, the Czech Republic’s largest spa town, situated along the river Tepla, has long been a place of decadent extravagance, celebrity visitors and clandestine liaisons. The numerous spas and hotels reflect the past glory of the town. The grandest of all is the Grand Hotel Pupp, said to be the most elegant in the country. The town can be exceptionally crowded with tourists, especially during high season. Transport to Karlovy Vary is by bus from Florenc station (journey time – 2 hours 30 minutes) or train from Hlavní nádrazí (journey time – 4 hours). Further information is available from Kur-Info, Vrídelní kolonada, Karlovy Vary (tel: (017) 322 9312; website: www.karlovyvary.cz). Sport The Czechs’ greatest sporting success has come from tennis, with Ivan Lendl, Martina Navrátilová and Jana Novotná being regarded as national sporting heroes. Success was also enjoyed in 1998, when the Czech ice hockey team was Olympic champions. The Czech national football team can be something of a dark horse, reaching the finals of Euro 96. In the domestic league, the First Division rivalry between Sparta Praha (website: www.sparta.cz) and Slávia Praha (website: www.slavia.cz) is very strong. Prague’s other First Division team, FK Victoria Zizkov (website: www.fkviktoriazizkov.cz), is based at the Viktoria Zizkov Stadium, Seifertova Trída, Prague 3 (tel: (02) 2272 2045). Sparta Praha play at their own Letna Stadium, Milady Horákové 98, Prague 7 (tel: (02) 2057 0323), while Slávia Praha play at the new Eden Stadium, Vladivostocká 1460/2, Prague 10 (tel: (02) 6731 1102). In the 2002/2003 season, Sparta Praha were second in the league and Victoria Zizkov were third. Although Slavia Praha finished outisde the top three, it managed to defeat Sparta Praha in the final of the Czech cup. Ticketpro, Rytírská 31 (tel: (02) 2481 8080; e-mail: etix@ticketpro.cz; website: www.ticketpro.cz) is the best source for tickets to sports events. The ticket office is open from Monday to Sunday 0830-2030. Prague has not yet developed a comprehensive network of sports facilities that cater for visitors and facilities for foreign sports fans are limited. Fitness centres: As is the case throughout Eastern Europe, fitness centres are appearing everywhere – most are members only and many have questionable levels of supervision. Luxury hotels catering for the business community often are the best option for visitors. Fitness Club Intercontinental, Curieovych námestí 43/5 (tel: (02) 2488 1525; website: http://prague.czech-republic.intercontinental.com) and Fitness Centre Hilton, Pobrezni 1, Prague 8 (tel: (02) 2484 2913; website: www.hilton.com) both offer a good range of workout machines and are open to non-residents. Other clubs include Body and Fitness Club, Bolzanova 7, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2422 7396), Fit Club Classic, Vladivostocka 1460/2, Prague 10 (tel: (02) 6731 0484), where reservations for aerobics need to be made a day in advance, and Sport Centrum, YMCA, Na Porící 12 (tel: (02) 2487 5811). Rates generally start at around Kc60 per day. Golf: The Czech Republic is poorly lacking in golf courses and Prague’s only 18-hole course is members only, although top hotels may be able to arrange access, if given enough advance warning. Golf Club Prague, Plzeòská, Prague 5, is a nine-hole course and driving range, with green fees of approximately Kc1000 per round. Ice-skating: Skating is an extremely popular sport, however, rinks are only open for one or two-hour periods, usually at weekends. Good rinks include Sportovní hala (HC Sparta), Za elektrármou 419, Prague 7 (tel: (02) 372 204), and Vokovice, Za lány 1, Prague 6 (tel: (02) 362 759). From December, outdoor skating is popular at the reservoirs at Divoká Sárka and Hostivar. The picturesque scenery and the many grog sellers make this an attractive activity, although hire of skates is problematic. Riding: TJ Zizkov Prague, Císarský ostrov 76, Prague 6 (tel: (02) 878 476), offers accompanied riding at Kc300 per hour – an additional Kc200 allows use of the attractive trails in Stromovka Park. Advanced booking is advisable. Shooting: With the high standard of Czech firearms, there are a number of indoor and outdoor shooting ranges in Prague. Better than its name may suggest, the Rambo Shooting Range, Za porícskou branou 7, Prague 8 (tel: (02) 231 3712), which might provide an amusing interlude to a holiday in Prague. Squash: As this sport is growing in popularity, new squash courts appear regularly in Prague, however, demand still outstrips supply and courts are often booked months in advance. Squashové centrum, 15 Wenceslas Square (tel: (02) 2400 9232), offers an unbeatable central location. The three courts are open daily until 2300 and equipment is available for hire. Swimming: With crowds of children and high chlorine levels at the municipal pools, the smaller pools in luxury hotels are often a better option. The indoor pool at Aréal Strahov Stadion, Olympijská, Prague 6 (tel: (02) 355 226), is used by competitive swimmers and also offers sauna facilities. The pool is closed during July and August. The YMCA, Na Porící 12 (tel: (02) 2487 1111), also caters for serious swimmers and is open until 2200. The fee is Kc1 per minute. Swimming in the reservoirs outside Prague is extremely popular, although sites can be dirty and crowded. Tennis: Outdoor courts, generally clay, cost about Kc120-200 per hour, while indoor courts can run to Kc350-500. Most courts are floodlit and open in the evening, some until 2300. Advance booking is essential. Tenisový klub Slávia Prague, Letná Park, Prague 7 (tel: (02) 3338 4033), has eight excellent floodlit clay courts, as well as fast-surface indoor courts. Tenis Club, Strelecký Island (ostrov), also hires courts to the public. Shopping Shopping in Prague can be frustrating or rewarding, depending on the approach taken. Western chains and large stores around Wenceslas Square do not offer bargains and shoppers should seek out the smaller shops to browse and patronise the cafés when it all becomes too much. Czech crystal and glassware are superb and often extremely good value. There are enough shops for one to spend an entire day on this alone. Cheap Czech crystal jewellery is found throughout the city. Czech garnets are considered the world’s best. Granat, Dlouha 30, Prague 1, are the specialists. Amber (jantar) can also sell at a bargain price, however, shoppers should stick to the Baltic variety – Russian shops sell a far more brittle and over-priced variety. Even in the markets it is possible to find beautiful and unique wood and ceramic pieces. The early post-Revolution days, when exquisite pieces of Art Nouveau Daum, Loetz glass or a set of duelling pistols could be purchased at one-sixth of their value, are long gone but antiques still can be good purchases. Jan Hunek Starozitnosti, Parízská 1, Prague 1, sells beautiful Czech glass from the 18th century to 1930s Art Deco. Alma, Vamentinská 7, Prague 1, specialises in porcelain, lace and folk costumes. Away from the centre, Bazars – glorified junk shops – occasionally turn up real finds. Time is needed for one to search them out but the rewards can be worthwhile. Antiquarian books and prints remain good buys but prices are rising. Antikvariat Galerie Mustek, 28, ríjna 13, Prague 1, and Antikvariat Karel Krenek, Celetna 31, Prague 1, both offer an excellent selection. Antikvariat Parízska, Parízska 8, Prague 1, specialises in prints and maps from the 16th to 19th centuries. Classical music CDs are often very low in price. The best selections are at Bonton Megastore, Palace Koruna, Vaclavske namestí 1, Prague 1 and Bontonland (Supraphon), Jungmannova 20, Prague 1. Supraphon, the privatised state recording company draws on a wealth of stunning Czech music in its archives (website: www.supraphon.cz). Shop opening hours vary widely but are generally Monday to Friday 0800-1000 and 1700-2000 and Saturday 1000-1400. Many tourist shops and larger stores remain open on Saturday and Sunday afternoons. Most areas of the city have at least one 24-hour food shop. Almost everything closes on public holidays. Most markets only sell food and their hours generally correspond to standard shopping hours. The best markets for crafts, hand embroidery, leather goods and charming wooden toys are Havelska, Prague 1, and the craft stalls in Staromestska namestí. Christmas Markets throughout December are excellent for gifts but visitors should beware of the professional pickpockets and the strength of the hot grog. VAT stands at around 22% for most products and services. Goods must be removed from the Czech Republic within 30 days of purchase, in order for visitors to claim a tax refund. Bills must be confirmed at the Duty Free Tax desk of the Customs Office in the Departure Hall (Terminal North) of Ryzyne Airport upon departure. Actual VAT refunds must be realised by Global Refund at the Thomas Cook cash desk or the Czech Made Products shop in Finger A, or VAT MAX at the transfer desk of Menzies Aviations Group. In Terminal South, actual VAT is refunded in the transit space in Free Shop by Global Refund. Culture Music has always been regarded as an important part of education, both through the schools and through town musicians, whose jobs included teaching as well as performing. From its formation in the late 18th century, the Prague Conservatoire has been a world class training ground for musicians and composers. In the 1780s, Dr Charles Burney described Bohemia as ‘a nation of musicians’ adding: ‘It is said by travellers, that the Bohemian nobility keep musicians in their houses; but in keeping servants it is impossible to do otherwise.’ Behind the big four Czech composers – Smetana, Dvorák, Jánacek and Martinu – lie literally hundreds of others, whose talents ranged from good to near great. Virtuoso instrumentalists and conductors have always been manifold. Surprisingly few were actually born in Prague but almost all of them were residents at one time or another. With the eclipse of Prague by Vienna, under the Hapsburgs, attention shifted from the political sphere to the artistic. Mozart was more highly regarded in Prague than he was in Vienna and every famous composer and virtuoso was welcomed with open arms, with conductors of the Prague opera including Weber, Mahler and Zemlinský. One of the downsides of the fall of communism was the substantial cutback of state funding and the entire arts scene is experiencing financial difficulties in the shift to a market economy. Artists are still regarded as respected members of the community and every possible effort is made to further their careers. Performance standards have, if anything, risen still higher. Prague is unquestionably a musical city. Prague Spring is one of the major world-class festivals and concerts abound. But this is not the end of the matter – buskers are found everywhere and the streets, squares and bridges echo to everything from talented students from the Conservatoire, to Dixieland jazz, folk and world music and pop. Tickets can be purchased at Cedok (see Tourist Information) and Ticketpro, Old Town Hall, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2481 2018; e-mail: vstupenky@ticketpro.cz; website: www.ticketpro.cz). Ticketpro accepts credit cards but does not book for the bigger classical venues. Bohemia Ticket International (BTI), Na príkope 16, Prague 1, is the only ticket agency that will accept ticket purchase from abroad (tel: (02) 2422 7832; e-mail: order@ticketsbti.cz; website: www.ticketsbti.cz), although those who choose to do this can expect a substantial booking fee. Ticket agencies tend to mark up ticket prices, especially for foreigners. Purchasing tickets from the relevant box office usually saves quite a bit of money. Unsold tickets costing more than Kc30 can often be purchased 30 minutes before performances. This is especially good value at the National Theatre. Visitors should purchase Spring Festival tickets from the festival office to avoid the hefty mark up. Weekly listings for all musical events can be found in The Prague Post and fortnightly The Prague Pill. Do mesta gives monthly cultural listings in Czech. Music: Prague boasts two world class orchestras. The Czech Philharmonic (website: www.ceskafilharmonie.cz), currently with Vladimir Askhenazy as musical director, is based at the neo-classical Rudolfinum, Alsvo nábrezí 12, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2489 3311). The Prague Symphony Orchestra (website: www.musica.cz/iso/pso), under Gaetano Delogu, has now returned to its restored home at the Smetana Hall of the Obecní dum, námestí Republicky 5, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2200 2101; fax: (02) 2200 2100; e-mail: info@obecni-dum.cz; website: www.obecni-dum.cz). Various other orchestras also turn in high quality performances and important venues for chamber music concerts include the Church of St Nicolas (Kostel sv. Mikuláse), Staromestská námestí, Prague 1, the Nostic Palace, Maltézské námestí 1, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2451 0131), St Agnes’ Convent (Kláster sv. Anezky ceské), U milosrdných 17, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2481 0835), and the exquisite Baroque Chapel of Mirrors (Zrcadlová kaple of the Klementinum), Mariánské námestí, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2166 3111 ext. 331). The standard opera repertoire is offered at the State Opera, Wilsonova 4, Prague 2 (tel: (02) 2422 7693; website: www.sop.cz). The Estates Theatre, Ovocný trh, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2421 5001; website: www.estatestheatre.cz), where Don Giovanni was first performed, still presents occasional Mozart operas. Czech repertoire is principally presented at the National Theatre (Narodni Divadlo), Narodni 2, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2491 3437; website: www.narodni-divadlo.cz). Performances here tend to be more innovative and ticket prices are lower. Unusual music shows are presented in the summer at the Krozikova Fontana (Krizik’s Fountain), in Luna Park, Prague 7, with shows linking music, lights, fountains and water features. Theatre: Black Box International Theatre (tel: (02) 9614 4139), performing at various venues, and Misery Loves Company, Celetna 17, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2480 9168; website: www.new-presence.cz/00/03/misery.html), both present consistently high quality productions of international plays and Czech works in English translations. There are currently seven companies presenting shows combining music, dance and 3D effects with black (ultraviolet) light features, known as Black Light Theatre. Performances run from classical to rock and all the companies are excellent. They include All Colours Theatre, Rytirská 31, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2161 0173; website: www.blacktheatre.com), The Black Light Theatre, Jirí Grossmann Theatre, Václavské Namestí 43 (tel: (02) 2421 9812; website: www.wow-show.com), The Black Theatre Prague, Na Príkope 10 (tel: (02) 2224 4358; website: www.volny.cz/black.theatre), Image, Image Theatre, Parizská 4, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2231 4448), Black Light Theatre of Frantisek Kratochvíl, Divadlo metro, Národní 25, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2108 5287), Ta Fantastika, Palac Unitaria, Karlova 8, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2222 1367), and The Black Light Theatre of Prague of Jirí Srnec, Divadlo Reduta, Národni Trída 20, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2493 3487). Dance: Classical ballet is prevalent at the major theatres but modern dance companies, with their experimental and multimedia techniques, offer a far more exciting evening. Ponec, Husitská 24A, Prague 3 (tel: (02) 2481 7886), a new performance space owned by the dance company, Tanec Praha (website: www.tanecpha.cz), presents a constantly varied and challenging programme of Czech and international companies. Folklore shows combining energetic dancing and music with colourful costumes have not lost their exuberance or high standards under the demands of tourists. Restaurace U Marcanu, Veleslanínská, 14, Prague 6 (tel: (02) 367 910), offers a year-round show with a traditional Czech dinner for a reasonable fixed price. Excellent summer shows are presented at the theatres Divadlo na Klárove, Nábrezí Edvarda Benese 3, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 538 046; fax: (02) 539 845), and Divadlo u hasicu, Rimská 45, Prague 2 (tel: (02) 55141, ext. 266 or 286). Film: The majority of foreign films in Prague are screened in their original language – subtitled films are billed as ‘titulek’ and films dubbed into Czech are ‘dabovat’. The best cinema for feature films, as well as experimental and late-night programmes, is 64 U Hradeb, Mostecká 21, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 535 006). Lucerna (tel: (02) 2421 6972; website: www.lucerna.cz), for all its faded glory, remains an atmospheric Art Deco movie palace. Cinema Broadway, Na príkope 31, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 161 3278), is the best venue for epic films. MAT Studio at Karlovo námestí 19, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2491 5765), shows Czech films with English subtitles at 2200 – with a capacity of 24, advance purchase of tickets is essential. The Czech film archive uses Ponrepo/Bio Konvikt, Bartolomejská 13, Prague 1 (website: www.volny.cz/mjos/ponrepo). A one-year membership is Kc120. Kinokavárna Jalta (café cinema), Václavské námestí 43, Prague 1 (tel: (02) 2422 8814), is the last of the small informal viewing spaces that once played an important part in Prague social life. South of Smíchov is the Barrandov Studio. Built by Václav Havel’s grandfather, after World War I, it soon became the centre of the Czech film industry. Czech directors, cameramen and technicians soon were in demand across Europe. The earliest important silent films set in Prague, however, were German. Paul Wegener’s The Golem (1920) vividly brought to life the medieval legend of the Jewish clay automaton – with studio expressionist sets that re-created the claustrophobic Ghetto – and Henrik Galeen’s The Student of Prague (1926), a tale of the Doppelgänger (evil double) re-created the early 19th century city. Gustave Machatý’s Erotikon (1929) reveals Art Deco Prague in all its glory, while his Extase (1933), winner at the Venice Biennial in 1934, created a sensation with its daring nude scene by Austrian actress Hedy Kiesler (later, in Hollywood, Hedy Lamarr). Czech animation came to prominence in the 1930s and remains influential in the genre. The implementation of Stalinist doctrine under the Communists largely isolated the industry from the West. However, innovations were still possible and in 1947, Jirí Trnka created the first puppet film, establishing a new genre that helped maintain a Czech presence in cinema in the West. The 1950s also saw the training of a new generation of filmmakers who, with the relaxation of restrictions in the 1960s, gave rise to the superb Czech New Wave. The finest films of this period were undoubtedly Closely Observed Trains (1966) and The Shop on Main Street (1965). Since the Velvet Revolution, Czech filmmakers seem to have lost their way, remaining in awe of the New Wave and attempting to maintain an identity in the wake of the influx of Hollywood values. Ironically, those values that threaten to swamp Czech films have also served to revive the industry – low costs and quality technicians have made Prague a major location for filming. Amadeus (1984), Mission Impossible (1996) and Les Miserables (1998) are only a few of the feature films filmed there. Cultural Events: The Czechs have always been known for both their ability for and love of music. One of the world’s largest festivals, now entering its 58th year, the Prague Spring International Music Festival continues this fine musical tradition. Every year, the festival starts on 12 May – the day Smetana died, in 1884 – and the opening concert always features his great cycle of symphonic poems, My Country. Prague Autumn (website: www.pragueautumn.cz), in September, is a slightly shorter and less intense music festival, which still features many Czech and international performers. Standing outside the main tourist season, it can be a slightly more relaxed event for visitors. Literary Notes The German poet, Edward Mörike’s, novella, Mozart’s Journey to Prague (1855), is a delightful, if fanciful, account of the composer’s trip in 1787, to conduct the premiere of Don Giovanni. Jan Neruda – the ‘Czech Dickens’ – provides fascinating 19th-century vignettes in Lesser Town Tales (1878), while Gustav Meyrik’s The Golem (1969) remains the classic version of the story concerning the medieval Jewish automaton. Although also Gothic in character, F. Marion Crawford’s occult novel, The Witch of Prague (1891), provides a wealth of description of the city in the late 1880s. Prague’s most famous writer, Franz Kafka, generally took a more jaundiced view of the city, filtered through the bewildering and menacing absurdities of Hapsburg bureaucracy. His masterpieces include The Trial (1925) The Castle (1926) and The Transformation and Other Stories (1915). Just as Kafka has spawned an industry of souvenirs, so too has the anti-hero of Jaroslav Hasek’s comic masterpiece of World War I, The Good Soldier Svejk (1921). Karel Capek’s anti-utopian play, R.U.R. (1921), added the word ‘robot’ to the international vocabulary. Bohumil Hrabal’s deservedly famous Closely Observed Trains (1965) offers a thoroughly unromantic picture of the final days of World War II. For the Stalinist period, Milan Kundera’s The Joke (1967) is a far superior work to his better known The Unbearable Lightness of Being (1984). Since the Velvet Revolution, literature (often experimental) has flourished in the Czech Republic. Michael Viewegh’s Bringing Up Girls in Bohemia (1994) offers a wry look at rampant capitalism and sex in modern suburban Prague. Nightlife Venues shift in and out of popularity with great rapidity in Prague. With soaring rents in the centre of town, almost all of the clubs around Wenceslas Square have either closed or spread out throughout the city. Establishments tend to be divided to meet the demands of three groups – expensive (for the newly wealthy Czechs and tourists), cheap and trashy (for the young tourists, backpackers and ex-pats) and cheap and innovative (for young Czechs and visitors in the know). Many bars are open late (until 0200 or 0400) and clubs even later (until 0500, 0600 or even later). In the Czech Republic, from low to high class, ‘nightclubs’ are strip shows, table dancing clubs, often with saunas and jacuzzis. If there is a proper show it will be on the order of an erotic show in London’s Soho. Clubs that feature live music are generally known as ‘music clubs’ or ‘jazz clubs’ while establishments that offer dancing are known as ‘discos’ or ‘dance clubs’. Dress codes and admission prices do not feature strongly in Prague’s nightlife. The minimum drinking age in the Czech Republic is 18 and drinks are inexpensive at Kc30 for half a litre of beer or Kc70-100 for imported beers and Kc15-60 for liquors (depending on the drink – vodka is cheaper than whisky, for instance). Weekly listing (in English) of music events can be found in the Prague Post and racier, fortnightly Prague Pill. Do mesta gives monthly nightlife listings in Czech. Bars: Currently popular are Kozicka, Kozi 4, Prague 1, and Belle Epoque, Krízovnická 8, Prague 1. Bugsy’s, Parízská 10, Prague 1 (website: www.bugsysbar.cz), with over 200 cocktails, attracts the business account set. Currently popular with younger Czechs are Studio A. Rubin, Malostranské námestí 9, Prague 1, which has a dancefloor, Marquis de Sade, Templova 18, Prague 1, and Akropolis, Palac Akropolis, Kubelíkova 27, Prague 3 (website: www.palacakropolis.cz), with three bars (no cover charge) and the trendy Kaaba Café. Casinos: Gambling plays an important part in the lives of many Czechs and is big business in Prague, with new casinos opening all the time. Most casinos present a sophisticated but relaxed atmosphere, with bets ranging from a minimum Kc20-25 to a maximum of Kc5000 (in a few cases like the Jalta, Kc10,000). The minimum age for gaming is 18 years and a passport or ID is required. Entrance fees are as high as Kc500 in some establishments. Casinos can be found in many of the luxury hotels, where evening dress is essential for admission. Most of the best casinos are found on Na prikope and Václavské namesti. Recommended venues include Casino Admiral Praha, Palace of Culture, 5 kvetna 65, Prague 4, the 24-hour Casino Jalta Happy Days, Václavské nánestí 35, Prague 1, the VIP Club Casino, Hotel Ambassador, Václavské nánestí 7, Prague 1, and Casino Palais Savarin, Na Príkope 10, with a kosher Moroccan restaurant, Casablanca. Clubs: World music continues to attract great attention in both clubs and live venues in the city. Prague has more than its fair share of trashy discos, to which the clubs provide a welcome alternative. Best for world music is Akropolis, Kubelíkova 27, Prague 3 (website: www.palacakropolis.cz), a complex of concert spaces, bars and café. Latino clubs, include La Habana, Mísenská 12, Prague 1, and Mánes, Masarykovo nábrezi 250, Prague 1, a 1930s functionalist gallery, which is only open on Friday and Saturday. Roxy, Dlouhá 33, Prague 1, caters to the dance crowd and features a hidden tea house. Radost/FX, Belehradská 120, Prague 2 (website: www.radostfx.cz), is one of the few clubs to survive the early post-Revolution period and offers up a glamorous mix of house and techno music. It also includes a vegetarian restaurant and art gallery. Industry 55, Vinohradská 40, Prague 2, stays open very late for a youngish crowd, playing techno, house, trance and other cutting-edge dance genres. Klub Lávka, Novotného Lávka (by the Charles Bridge), is a popular top-40 club with good food and a wonderful riverside terrace. Karlove Lázné, also located at Novotného Lávka, claims to be the largest club in central Europe. The four floors all feature different music styles, with synth techno on the fourth floor, retro on the third, radio pop occupying the second and hip hop and funk blasting out on the first floor, complete with MCM café. Live music: Malostranské beseda, Malostranské námestí, Prague 1, features everything from 1920s jazz to rock. The Lucerna Music Bar, Vodickova 36, Prague 1 (website: www.musicbar.cz), serves up a rich blend of excellent jazz, rock and 80s nights, with plenty of space to dance. Jazz has been popular in Prague since the 1920s and even though the scene has contracted with the growth of rock music, there are still excellent venues for an evening of jazz and blues. AghaRTA, Krakovská 5, Prague 1, is undoubtedly the city’s best venue (website: www.agharta.net). The Jazz & Blues Café, Na príkope 23, Prague 1, has good programming and sound reproduction that more than make up for the terrible décor. The best local musicians often meet up for late-night jam sessions at U staré paní, Michalská 9, Prague 1. U Malého Glen, Karmelitská 23, Prague 1, is one of the oldest jazz bars in Malá strana, with good food and a comfortable, friendly atmosphere. Reduta, Národní trída 20, Prague 1, remains infamous as the club where President Clinton attempted to establish a cool image by playing the sax for President Havel – it is best left to the tourists. The image of the cowboy has been inexplicably popular in the Czech Republic since the 1920s. První Prag Country Saloon Amerika, Korunní 101, Prague 3, is only open until 2300 but can provide a wild night of country and western music – dress the part and mosey on down. For Czech folk music see the Music section in Culture. City Statistics Location: Banks of the Vltava, Bohemia, Czech Republic, Central Europe. Country dialling code: 420. Population: 1.23 million. Ethnic Mix: 94.4% Czech, 3% Slovakian, 0.6% Polish, 0.5% German, 0.3% Roma (gypsy), 0.2% Hungarian, 1% other (of which the largest groups are Russian and Vietnamese). Religion: 39.8% atheist, 39.2% Roman Catholic, 4.6% Protestant, 3% Orthodox, 13.4% other. Time Zone: GMT + 1. Electricity: 220-230 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard; converters are hard to find. Average January temp: - 1ºC (30ºF). Average July temp: 19ºC (62.6ºF). Annual rainfall: 67mm (2.64 inches). Special Events Ball (Ples) Season, Jan-Mar/Apr (the end of Lent), various venues Witches’ Night, 30 Apr, celebrates the death of winter with bonfires, throughout the city Prague Spring, 12 May-early Jun, various venues Dance Prague, Jun, various venues Prague Autumn, mid-Sep, various venues Burcák Season, late Sep-early Oct, sampling the half-fermented new season wines directly from the barrels Vokaliza International Jazz Festival, late Oct, Lucerna Music Bar Musica Iudaica, festival celebrating Jewish composers, Nov, various venues Prague German-Language Theatre Festival, Nov, various venues Days of Japanese Culture in Prague, early Nov, throughout the city International Festival of Advent and Christmas Music, 29 Nov-1 Dec, various venues, with a final concert of all choirs in the Old Town Square Bohuslav Martinu Festival, music festival featuring the music of this 20th-century Czech composer, including a violin and violoncello competition, as well as concerts of chamber, symphonic and dramatic music, early Dec, Lichtenstein Palace and the Ruldophinum St Nicholas’s Eve, 5 Dec, men dress as St Nicholas, an angel and a devil, giving out sweets to good children, near Charles Bridge, Staromestské Namertí and Karlovo Namestí Prague Christmas, festival of carols and customs, mid-Dec, various venues including concerts in the Old Town Square St Sylvester’s Eve, 31 Dec, wild revelry complete with fireworks, especially around Vaclavské namestí and the Old Town Square Cost of Living Half-litre bottle of mineral water: Kc8.90 (from Kc7.90 for 1.5 litre bottle) 33cl bottle of beer: Kc20 Financial Times newspaper: Kc100 36-exposure colour film: Kc70-249 City-centre bus ticket: Kc12 Adult football ticket: Kc50-200 (league matches), Kc100-700 (European matches) Three-course meal with wine/beer: Kc400 1 Czech Koruna (Kc1) = £0.02; US$ 0.03; C$0.05; A$0.06; €0.03 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Business Services Business Contacts: Hospodárarská komorna Ceské republiky (Economic Chamber of the Czech Republic) Seifertova 22, 130 00 Prague 3 Tel: (02) 2409 6111. Fax: (02) 2409 6221. E-mail: info@komora.cz Website: www.hkcr.cz CzechTrade (UK) Czech Centre, 95 Great Portland Street, London W1W 7NY Tel: (020) 7291 9924. Fax: (020) 7436 8300. E-mail: franek@czechcentre.org.uk Website: www.czechtrade.cz Assists in the development of trade and cooperation to support the international trade of Czech companies worldwide. Czech-North America Chamber of Commerce (USA) 4220 Pleasantdale Road, Atlanta, GA 30340 Tel: (678) 533 7191. Fax: (678) 533 7113. E-mail: trade@ccrcc.net Website: www.ccrcc.net Canada-Czech Chamber of Commerce (Canada) 740 Spadina Avenue, Toronto, Ontario M5S 2J2 Tel: (416) 929 3432. Fax: (416) 925 1940. E-mail: trade@ccrcc.net Website: www.ccrcc.net Czech Chamber of Commerce (Australia) 198 Greenhill Road, Eastwood, Adelaide, SA 5063 Tel: (08) 8406 1676. Fax: (08) 8373 5793. E-mail: ccca@picknowl.com.au Consulate-General of the Czech Republic, Commercial Section 169 Military Road, Dover Heights (Sydney), NSW 2030 Tel: (02) 9371 7307. Fax: 9388 1548. E-mail: commerce_sydney@mzv.cz Website: www.mzv.cz/sydney Convention and meeting planners Aims International Na Zderaze 15, 120 00 Prague 2, Czech Republic Tel: (02) 2492 1180. Fax: (02) 2491 6226. E-mail aims@aims.cz Website: www.aims.cz Guarant spol. s.r.o. Opletalova 22, 110 00 Prague 1 Tel: (02) 8400 1444 or 2421 0650. Fax: (02) 8400 1448. E-mail: guarant@guarant.cz Website: www.guarant.cz Agentura Triumf. spol. s.r.o. Nad primaskou 31, PO Box 15, 100 31 Prague 10 Tel: (02) 781 0161. Fax: (02) 6710 0113. E-mail: triumf@triumf.cz Website: www.triumf.cz ProMoPro s.r.o. Rubereska 1/215, 190 00 Prague 9 Tel: (02) 8389 1661. Fax: (02) 8389 2757. E-mail: provoz@promopro.cz Website: www.promopro.cz The largest company providing equipment for conferences, concerts and exhibitions. Convention and meeting venues Prague Exhibition Grounds Výstaviste Praha, Holesovice, 170 05 Prague 7 Tel: (02) 2010 3111 or 2010 3255/6. Fax: (02) 3337 4088. E-mail: propagace2@vystaviste-praha.cz Website: www.prague-exhibition-grounds.cz One of the oldest multifunctional complexes in Europe, the Industrial Palace was built for the Jubilee Exhibition in 1891. The complex, set in Letná Park, includes restaurants, beer gardens, the music theatre Spiral and the Krizik Fountains. Prague Congress Centre, a.s. Kongresové Centrum Prahy, Třída 5 kvítna 65, 140 21 Prague 4 Tel: (02) 6117 1111. Fax: (02) 6122 2062. E-mail: kcpinfo@kcp.cz Website: www.kcp.cz Housed in the Palace of Culture in Vyšehrad, the recently renovated and fully equipped conference centre can cater for 170-2800 people (with a total capacity of 4500); parking is available for 600 cars and 45 buses. General business services Copy General Senovázné námestí 26, 110 00 Prague 1 Tel: (02) 2423 0020. Fax: (02) 2421 4371. E-mail: cg@copygeneral.cz Website: www.copygeneral.cz 24-hour photocopying, including colour copies, digital printing and printouts and binding; the firm will collect and deliver. Office equipment hire APS Opletalva 53, 110 00 Prague 1 Tel: (02) 2421 5147. Fax: (02) 2422 1705. E-mail: sales@aps.cz Website: www.aps.cz PC leasing. Regus Klimentská 46, 110 02 Prague 1 Tel: (02) 2185 2100. Fax: (02) 2185 2099. E-mail: reception.pcc@regus.com Website: www.regus.com Provides short-term office and conference facilities, including internet access. Secretarial services Manmark Economy 28 rijna 3, 110 00 Prague 1 Tel: (02) 2010 8254. Fax: (02) 2010 8255. E-mail: info@manmark.cz Website: www.manmark.cz Translation services Artlingua a.s. Myslíkova 6, 120 00 Prague 2 Tel: (02) 2491 8058. Fax: (02) 2492 1715. E-mail: artlingua@login.cz Website: www.artlingua.cz Specialises in major events and can provide simultaneous translation equipment. Interlingua Servis Spálená 17, 110 00 Prague 1 Tel: (02) 2490 9251. Fax: (02) 2493 0080. E-mail: interlin@login.cz Website: www.interlingua.cz Specialises in legal and business documents. Unusual conference venues Prague Castle Administration Business Department, 119 08 Prague 1 Tel: (02) 2437 3237. Fax: (02) 2431 0896. E-mail: jiri.machal@hrad.cz Website: www.hrad.cz Prague Castle offers a full service for conferences, exhibitions, and receptions, including catering, equipment, translation services and even floral displays. Municipal House (Obecní dum) Námestí republiky 5, 111 21 Prague 1 Tel: (02) 2200 2111 (switchboard). Fax: (02) 2200 2134. E-mail: info@obecni-dum.cz Website: www.obecni-dum.cz The recently restored Municipal House can offer full conference facilities in this gem of Prague’s Art Nouveau heritage. History c. 400BC The Celtic Boii tribe occupies Bohemia c. AD700 West Slavic tribes settle in the region 863 Cyril and Methodius introduce Christianity to Bohemia 1245 Jewish ghetto is constructed 1346 Charles (Karel) IV becomes Holy Roman Emperor and King of Bohemia 1348 Charles IV founds Charles University, in Prague, the first in Eastern Europe 1352 Construction of St Vitus Cathedral begins under Swabian architect Peter Parler 1357 Construction of the Charles Bridge begins 1378 Death of Charles IV 1403 Jan Hus, Rector of Charles University, begins preaching against Church corruption 1415 Hus, convicted of heresy and excommunicated, is burnt at the stake at Constance 1419-34 Hussite Wars during which they repel all attacks; considerable religious freedom is finally granted by the Pope 1526 Hapsburg rule begins under Ferdinand I 1618 The Thirty Years War begins with the defenestration of two Catholic councillors 1648 The Thirty Years War ends on Charles Bridge as the Czechs repel the Swedes 29 Oct 1787 Mozart conducts the premiere of Don Giovanni at the Estates Theatre in Prague 1848 Populist revolutions sweep Europe; Prague rebellion is crushed by Austrian troops 28 Oct 1918 Czechoslovakia becomes an independent nation with Tomás¢ Masaryk as first President 1938 Chamberlain, Deladier, Mussolini and Hitler sign the Munich Agreement, ceding the Sudetenland to Germany without the consent of Czechoslovakia Oct 1938 German troops occupy the Sudetenland March 1939 German troops occupy the rest of Czechoslovakia; Slovakia becomes a Nazi puppet state 5-9 May 1945 Prague uprising; the city is occupied by the Red Army 1946 First post-war elections; Communists are the largest party with 36% of the vote Feb 1948 Klement Gottwald leads a Moscow-backed coup d’état and becomes President 5 Jan 1968 Alexander Dubc¢ek becomes First Secretary and introduces humanistic reforms 28 Aug 1968 Prague Spring crushed by invasion of Warsaw Pact troops 16 Jan 1969 Jan Palach sets himself alight in protest at ‘normalisation’ imposed by Moscow Dec 1976 Charter 77 formed by playwright and dissident Václav Havel to monitor human rights offences Nov 1989 The ‘Velvet Revolution’ – student demonstrations become a full-scale revolution of passive resistance and the Communist government falls 1990 Václav Havel is elected President 1 Jan 1993 The ‘Velvet Divorce’ – Slovakia becomes an independent country Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.