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_City Overview The ‘cradle of New France’ and the bastion of French culture in North America today, Quebec City is the most charming city on the continent. Nowhere else is the past so well preserved in an ensemble of 17th- to 19th-century buildings, wrapped tight in the fortifications of the only walled city north of Mexico. A popular destination for visitors with its horse-drawn calèches rattling down cobblestone streets between grey-stone buildings, the city also won recognition from UNESCO and was declared a World Heritage Site in 1985. The city’s fortunes are largely due to its geography and history. The walled Upper Town sits atop the strategic Cap Diamant, overlooking the spot where the St Lawrence River narrows (known as the kebec to the original Algonquin inhabitants). The view from the river is dominated by the towering copper-roofed Chateau Frontenac and the wide wooden boardwalk known as Dufferin Terrace running along in front of it is often the first place visitors head to when they enter the Upper Town. At the foot of Cap Diamant and linked by a funicular, the Lower Town was the spot where Samuel de Champlain founded the city in 1608, some 73 years after Jacques Cartier was the first European to ‘discover’ the area. Today, the buildings in the Lower Town’s Place Royale have been restored to their original appearance – at a cost of around one million Canadian Dollars per house. Few of the original structures survived the British bombardment of 1759 – a prelude to General Wolfe’s taking of the city from the French, when his troops secretly scaled the bluffs below the Plains of Abraham to the west. The battle saw the death of both Wolfe and the French general, Montcalm, but the British were able to consolidate their victory. To prevent a future attack from the same route, they constructed the Citadel, an enormous star-shaped fortress and one of the city’s most popular attractions. With Confederation, Quebec City became the capital of the province of Quebec in 1867. The National Assembly meets in the Hôtel de Parlement, on Parliament Hill, which runs parallel to the Plains of Abraham, separated by the lively Grand Allée. Tourism and government may be the most visible industries in the city but there are a growing number of high-tech firms. Some industry has also survived from the earliest days when the port was one of the busiest in North America, ferrying furs and later timber and wood pulp to markets overseas. Although nearly all of the city’s present residents are of French descent (and thus largely Roman Catholic), nearly a third – 29% – are bilingual, offering a friendly, warm welcome to visitors in English, as well as French. Their joie de vivre is infectious and never more so than during the summer festivals, when the whole town seems to be one continuous stage. Summer is worth celebrating as winters tend to be long, cold and snowy. But the locals compensate by heading to the hills for some of the best skiing on this side of the continent. The highlight of the winter, however, is the Carnaval de Québec – two weeks of frolics in the snow helped along by a bit of warming alcohol and general good spirits during the bleakest part of February. Getting There By Air Aéroport International Jean-Lesage (YQB) Tel: (418) 640 2600. Website: www.aijlqc.com Quebec City’s airport lies 20km (12 miles) west of Old Quebec and handles primarily domestic flights, although there are a few flights from destinations in the USA. Most international flights arrive at Montreal, a short flight away. Quebec City’s airport also serves as the main departure point for the remote towns in the north and east of the province. Major airlines: The national airline is Air Canada (tel: (888) 247 2262; website: www.aircanada.ca), which also operates regional flights under the Air Nova banner. Other carriers serving the airport include Air Transat, American Eagle and Continental Express. Approximate flight times to Quebec City: From London is 7 hours 55 minutes; from New York is 1 hour 45 minutes; from Los Angeles is 5 hours 45 minutes; from Toronto is 1 hour 30 minutes and from Sydney is 19 hours 10 minutes. Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, restaurants, bars, newsagents, duty-free and other shops. Car hire is provided by Avis, Budget, Hertz and National. Business facilities: Air Canada has an executive lounge, the Maple Leaf Lounge. Arrival/departure tax: This is included in the ticket price. Transport to the city: A shuttle bus operated by Autobus La Québécoise (tel: (418) 872 5525; website: www.autobus.qc.ca) runs infrequently to Downtown 0845-2220, stopping at the major hotels (journey time – 45 minutes; fare: C$9 one way or C$17 return). Taxis to Downtown charge a fixed rate of C$24.50 (journey time – 20 minutes). Getting There By Water Quebec’s port has undergone a number of changes since its days a couple of centuries ago, when it was one of the continent’s pre-eminent ports. Overseen by the Quebec Port Authority (website: www.portquebec.ca), it is divided into three sectors: two of which, Beauport and Anse au Foulon, handle industrial cargoes. The central sector, the Estuary, handles general cargo and cruise ships; it includes the Bassin Louise, where leisure craft are moored and from which boat tours depart and also the Old Port, much of which has been converted for leisure activities. Ferry services: The Société des traversiers du Québec (website: www.traversiers.gouv.qc.ca) runs the ferry from Levis, directly across the river to Quebec City, departing every 30-60 minutes 0630-0220 (journey time – 10 minutes; fares: C$2 each way; C$2.50 in summer). Transport to the city: The Bassin Louise is directly north of Old Quebec and, although short, the walk to town is uphill. The ferry from Lévis docks near Place Royale in Basse-Ville and the easiest route to the upper part of Old Quebec is by the funicular (website: www.funiculaire-quebec.com). Getting There By Road Quebec City is well served by a network of autoroutes (motorways), which are normally two-digit numbers identified by red and blue signs and main (100-199) and secondary (200-399) highways, which have green signs. Traffic drives on the right. Road signs are international but usually in French. Maximum speed limits are 100kph (62mph) on motorways, 80kph (50mph) on rural highways and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. It is illegal to turn right at a red light. The minimum driving age is 16 years. An International Driving Permit is recommended, although it is not legally required. Visitors to Quebec may drive on their national driving licences for up to six months. Proof of insurance (minimum C$50,000 third-party liability) must be carried. Non-residents may be covered for compensation under the province’s no-fault insurance if driving a vehicle registered in Quebec or a province or US state with a reciprocal arrangement; the Société de l’assurance automobile du Québec (tel: (418) 643 7620; website: www.saaq.gouv.qc.ca) can provide further information. There are often road checks for intoxicated drivers; the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. Seatbelts are compulsory for all passengers. Radar detection devices are strictly prohibited and may not be carried in automobiles. Snow tyres are a necessity in winter. Information on road conditions is available from the Ministère des Transports (tel: (418) 684 2363; website: www.mtq.gouv.qc.ca) and Environment Canada (tel: (418) 648 7766). CAA-Québec (part of the Canadian Automobile Association) offers travel planning, insurance and other services to motorists (tel: (418) 624 0708 or 8222; website: www.caaquebec.com). Emergency breakdown services: CAA-Québec (418) 624 4000 (Quebec City area only) CAA/AAA (800) 222 4357 Routes to the city: The main routes from the west are Highway 40 on the St Lawrence north shore and Highway 20, which bypasses the city on the south shore. Access to the city from Highway 20 is via Highway 73 arriving from the south and the US border. Highway 73’s northern half meets with Highway 175 from Chicoutimi. From the east, Highway 138 from Charlevoix becomes Highway 440, leading directly into the centre of the city. Many of these routes jump around – it is often necessary to exit the highway, follow another one for a couple of kilometres, then rejoin the original one. Driving times to Quebec City: From Montreal – 2 hours 35 minutes; Ottawa – 4 hours 20 minutes; Toronto – 8 hours. Coach services: All buses depart from the main bus terminal, 320 rue Abraham-Martin (tel: (418) 525 3000), which is directly adjacent to the railway station. Facilities include ATMs, bars and restaurants, left-luggage and coach passes. Most buses arriving from the west also stop at the bus terminal in Ste-Foy, 3001 chemin des Quatre-Bourgeois (tel: (418) 650 0087). Orléans Express (website: www.orleansexpress.com) is the main coach company within the province of Quebec, serving areas to the west and all along the south shore of the St Lawrence. Intercar (website: www.intercar.qc.ca) serves the Lac St-Jean, Charlevoix and Côte Nord regions to the north and east of the city. Getting There By Rail VIA Rail is Canada’s national rail service provider (tel: (418) 692 3940 or (888) 842 7245; website: www.viarail.ca). Quebec City’s main rail station, Gare du Palais, is located northwest of Old Quebec at 450 rue de la Gare-du-Palais, adjacent to the main coach station. The château-like railway station contains restaurants, cafés and left-luggage facilities. Trains arriving from the west also stop at Ste-Foy Station, 3255 chemin de la Gare, to the southwest. Rail services: Quebec City lies at the eastern end of the Quebec City–Windsor corridor, which accounts for 85% of Canada’s passenger rail traffic. Both economy and first class (VIA 1) cars are available on corridor trains. These link Quebec City with Montreal (journey time – 3 hours) to the west, from where connections to Ottawa (journey time – 2 hours) and Toronto (journey time – 4-5 hours) are possible, as well as Amtrak trains to New York City. Transport to the city: Gare du Palais is a short walk from Old Quebec. Bus 18 stops in front of the station and a taxi stand is located along the side of the building, directly opposite the exit from the platforms. Getting Around Public Transport Public buses in the Quebec City region are run by the Société de transport de la Communauté urbaine de Québec (STCUQ) (tel: (418) 627 2511; website: www.stcuq.qc.ca). The buses run from 0600 to 0100 and are supplemented by a limited system of night buses (Friday and Saturday until 0300). Express Métrobus services run more frequently and link the university area of Ste-Foy with northern suburbs, stopping near Place D’Youville en route. Each stop has an Info-Bus number; telephoning 621 followed by this four-digit number gives schedule information for that particular bus stop. One-way fares for STCUQ services are C$2.25 for adults (concessions not available); tickets purchased in advance are available singly and cost only C$1.90 (concessions available). It is possible to transfer from one bus to another at no extra cost, provided a transfer slip is obtained when boarding the first bus. A one-day pass is available for C$5.10. The upper part of Old Quebec is linked to Basse-Ville by a funicular (website: www.funiculaire-quebec.com), which runs 0730-2300 (until 2400 in summer). The fare is C$1.50. During ski season, the HiverExpress winter shuttle (tel: (418) 525 5191) links the city with the main ski centres. Departures are from Downtown hotels and the cost is C$22 return. Taxis Taxis are available from taxi ranks at major hotels and at the airport, or they can be hailed on the street Downtown and in areas where bars and restaurants are clustered. Taxis can also be ordered by telephone: Taxi Québec (tel: (418) 525 8123 or 522 2001) and Taxi Co-op Québec (tel: (418) 525 5191) are the main firms in the city. Fares start at C$2.50 and increase by C$1.25 per kilometre. A tip of 15% is customary. Limousines Service de limousine Guy Samson (tel: (418) 652 7316; fax: (418) 652 7250; website: www.limousinesamson.com) offers sedans and stretch limos for C$40 and C$100 per hour, respectively. Groupe Limousine A-1 Inc (tel: (418) 523 5059; fax: (418) 524 5608; website: www.limousinequebec.com) has sedans for C$55 per hour and vans and stretch limos for C$100. Driving in the City Quebec City is a city that people walk around to see most of the sights usually because it creates the right romantic ambience, although the difficulties of driving and parking in Old Quebec no doubt have their effect. Motorists not only have to contend with narrow, twisting streets filled with pedestrians but also have to wait while horse-drawn calèches amble along. To try and preserve the quiet atmosphere, motorcycles are not permitted in Old Quebec. Although the Autoroute Dufferin-Montmorency (Highway 440) passes within a couple of blocks of the city walls providing a direct link to the attractions east of the city, the other highways crossing the city to the north and west can be confusing, as not enough information about exits and routes is given. There are parking lots scattered around the periphery of the Old Town, the most convenient being the ones near the tourist office on avenue Wilfrid-Laurier, near the Grande Allée and Porte St-Louis. Within the Old Town itself, there is parking below the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) at the end of rue St-Jean. Longer term, unattended parking is available across from the coach station off rue Abraham-Martin. There are a number of lots in the Old Port area, along Quai St-Andre and rue Dalhousie – a convenient option in that they are a walk downhill after seeing the sights. Car Hire In general, drivers must be over 21 years and possess a national driving licence and credit card. An International Driving Permit is not legally required but is recommended. Major car hire firms in Quebec City include Budget, 29 Côte du Palais (tel: (418) 692 3660; website: www.budgetmtl.com), who generally charge C$45-50 per day (C$30-35 per day at the weekend) for a small car, not including insurance (C$23 per day) or taxes. Other firms are Avis, in the Hilton, 1100 boulevard René-Lévesque Est (tel: (418) 523 1075; website: www.avis.com), Discount, 12 rue Ste-Anne (tel: (418) 692 1244; website: www.discountcar.com), and National, 295 rue St-Paul (tel: (418) 694 1727; website: www.nationalcar.com). Bicycle & Scooter Hire As part of the province-wide Route Verte (Green Route) of cycling paths (website: www.routeverte.com), there are two long-distance cycling paths passing through Quebec City, in addition to shorter paths and bike lanes for regular commuters. The long distance-paths areuseful for visitors, since one links the Old Port with the Montmorency Falls, while the other branches off to the west, eventually linking up with a longer trail to one of the provincial parks. Promo-Vélo (tel: (418) 522 0087) has information on local cycle paths; Vélo Québec (website: www.velo.qc.ca) has a wealth of information on cycling in the province, however, the site is in French only. Cyclists are required to follow all the laws of the highway code, as well as bike-specific signs. There are two main firms that hire bikes: Vélo Passe-Sport Plein Air, 22 Côte du Palais (tel: (418) 692 3643), an Old Quebec-based company, is open from mid-April until the end of October and hires scooters (C$39 for two hours; C$79 for eight hours) in addition to bicycles (C$14 for two hours; C$25 for eight hours). Cyclo Services, 84 rue Dalhousie (tel: (418) 692 4052; website: www.microtec.net/cyclo), is located in the Old Port and offers bikes for C$10 for one hour, C$18 for four hours and C$25 for 24 hours. Both sell maps of the cycle path. Business Business Profile Quebec City’s importance as a port has declined from the heady days when much of Canada’s fur trade passed through its wharves and, later, the timber used for shipbuilding and pulp for paper-processing, yet it still moves over 16 million tonnes of cargo. Today, tourism and government are the mainstay of the economy and this is reflected in the labour market, where 86% of the working population is involved in the tertiary sector. Manufacturing and other secondary industries make up much of the rest – the region is the second most important in Canada for pulp and paper processing – although there is an increasing trend towards new technologies. The key sectors are the biomedical, information technology, geomatics, environmental technology, bio-food, building materials, metal, mineral and advanced materials industries. These are bolstered by some 100 research centres, including the National Optics Institute and the CHUL biomedical research centre at Université Laval (founded in 1663), which is also home to the Geomatics Research Centre, grouping everything from digitised mapping to GPS technologies. Quebec City has six million visitors a year, with groups of tourists arriving on the many cruise ships that dock there. The city’s role as a conference destination was put to the test during the Summit of the Americas in April 2001. In terms of influence, Quebec City is home to the majority of government ministries as well as the National Assembly itself and is the principal regional centre for the eastern part of the province. Government activity is concentrated around Parliament Hill, just to the west of Old Quebec, while down the hill in the St Roch area, Quebec’s National Centre for New Technologies (CNNTQ) is beginning to take shape. Unemployment has been improving gradually, with a seasonally adjusted rate of 8.2% in September 2001, slightly lower than the province as a whole, but still above the Canadian average of 7.2%. Business Etiquette Although more English is spoken in the business world than on the streets, a few words of French before switching to English will ensure a much better reception than launching into English straight away. Translations of certain key items such as executive summaries would be considered a beau geste. Due to the touchy political situation, it is best to avoid discussing language rights or the sovereignty movement. Standard international business courtesies should be observed, although businesspeople in Quebec City are less formal than Europeans and usually use first names after the initial introduction. When speaking French in a business context, it is best to use ‘vous’ until the other party uses the less formal ‘tu’; after that, lapsing back into ‘vous’ is considered bad form. Business cards are exchanged either at the beginning or end of the first meeting. Both men and women generally wear suits but short-sleeved shirts are acceptable in summer. Business hours are generally 0900-1700 weekdays. Breakfast and lunch meetings are more common than evening meetings. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Quebec City is a delightful place to wander around for a few days although that may not give enough time to see all of the specific museums and attractions. The main areas of interest are in Vieux-Québec (Old Quebec), which is divided between Haute-Ville (Upper Town) within the city walls and Basse-Ville (Lower Town) at the foot of the cliff on which Upper Town stands. Attractions in the Upper Town include many museums devoted to recounting historic events and those set up by religious organisations such as the Musée des Augustines de l’Hôtel-Dieu de Québec, recounting the history of the nuns who founded the first hospital north of Mexico or the Musée des Ursulines. There are also some delightful churches, historic houses and tourist attractions such as the Québec Experience multimedia show and the diorama that is the centrepiece for the show at the Musée du Fort. In the Lower Town, the charming Quartier Petit Champlain is a cobblestone street filled with restaurants and boutiques. It is supplemented by history museums and the renowned Musée de la Civilisation, which hosts excellent archaeological and anthropological exhibitions. Adjacent to the Lower Town and bordering the St Lawrence River, the Vieux-Port (Old Port) has been converted into a riverside promenade with entertainment and dining and a couple of small museums devoted to the port’s history and seafaring in general. To the southwest of Upper Town, the imposing Citadel was added to supplement the fortifications guarding Old Quebec; it protected the city from attack to the southwest, where the Plains of Abraham stretch as far as the Musée du Québec. Parallel to the plains and separated from it by the bars and restaurants of Grand Allée is Parliament Hill, where the provincial legislature sits in the ornate Second-Empire Hôtel de Parlement. Summer hours for attractions typically begin on the Fête St-Jean (June 24th) and end Labour Day weekend in early September. Tourist Information Bureau d’information touristique du Vieux-Québec 835 avenue Wilfrid-Laurier Tel: (418) 649 2608. Fax: (418) 522 0830. E-mail: bit@cuq.qc.ca Website: www.quebecregion.com Opening hours: Daily 0830-1930 (late Jun-mid-Oct); Mon-Sat 0900-1700, Fri until 1800, Sun 1000-1600 (mid-Oct-late Jun). Run by the Greater Quebec Area Tourism and Convention Bureau, this centre covers Quebec City and vicinity. The Discovery Pavilion downstairs provides information on the Plains of Abraham. Centre Infotouriste 12 rue Ste-Anne Tel: (514) 873 2015 or (877) BONJOUR (266 5687). Fax: (418) 864 3838. E-mail: info@tourisme.gouv.qc.ca Website: www.bonjourquebec.com Opening hours: Daily 0830-1930 (late Jun-early Sep); daily 0900-1700 (early Sep-late Jun). The Centre Infotouriste, operated by Tourisme Québec, provides information on the whole of the province (including Quebec City) and shares its location with bureaux de change, tour operators and car hire and travel agencies. Passes The Military Passport (C$20; concessions available) will appeal to history buffs as it includes access to five military attractions (La Citadelle de Québec, Centre d’interprétation des Champs de Bataille, Parc de l’Artillerie, Fortifications de Québec and Fort No 1 at Pointe de Lévy on the south shore of the St Lawrence), as well as the Observatoire de la Capitale. The Three-site Discovery Package allows entry to the Musée de la Civilisation, Musée de l’Amérique française and Centre d’Interprétation Place-Royale for C$11 (concessions available). Key Attractions Vieux-Québec/Haute-Ville (Old Quebec’s Upper Town) The first thing most visitors head for when they visit Quebec City is the Old Town’s Haute-Ville (Upper Town), where the towering Chateau Frontenac is located. This hotel was built in 1893, although the tower that gives it its distinctive appearance was added in the 1920s. Tours are available by reservation (tel: (418) 691 2166; C$6.50). It sits between Place d’Armes – a central square with the narrow lanes leading off it filled with street artists and an artist’s market – and the Terrasse Dufferin, a wide wooden boardwalk offering a terrific view of Levis on the opposite shore. The Dufferin Terrace is filled with street entertainers and visitors just milling around or promenading past the cannons and kiosks that predate the Château Frontenac. Nearby, the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville contains the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) but is dominated by the Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Québec, the city’s main Catholic cathedral. The imposing edifice has suffered numerous disasters over three-and-a-half centuries, much of which is documented in the Act of Faith show, a son et lumière spectacle that also relates the history of the city and lights up the cathedral’s architecture to good effect. Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Québec 20 rue De Buade Tel: (418) 694 0665 or 4000 (Act of Faith). Fax: (418) 692 5860. Website: www.patrimoine-religieux.com Transport: Bus 3, 7, 11, 800 or 801 to Place D’Youville. Opening hours: Daily 0800-2100 but access is limited after 1300 to half-hour intervals between Act of Faith shows (May-mid-Oct); 0800-1600 (mid-Oct-Apr). Admission: Free. Act of Faith: C$7.50. Vieux-Québec/Basse-Ville (Old Quebec’s Lower Town) The oldest part of Old Quebec, Lower Town is clustered on the narrow streets between the ramparts of Haute-Ville and the Old Port, linked to the Upper Town by the funicular, the escaliers casse-cou (breakneck stairs) and the steep Côte de la Montagne. At its centre, Place Royale has been faithfully restored to its former glory, the 17th- and 18th-century houses surrounding the one-time market square now in pristine condition. The Centre d’interprétation Place-Royale, a modern interpretation centre within one of these historic buildings, displays period artefacts and panels that illustrate the area’s history. The historic Maison Chevalier captures the times with displays of domestic scenes in the 17th century. Between the two, the Quartier Petit Champlain is a lively and crowded area of shops and restaurants along a romantic cobblestone street. Centre d’interprétation de Place-Royale 27 rue Notre-Dame Tel: (418) 646 9071. Fax: (418) 528 7969. Website: www.mcq.org Transport: Bus 1 or funicular. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (summer); Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (winter). Admission: C$3 (concessions available); free on Tues (in summer) and Tues-Sun (Nov-Mar). Maison Chevalier 66 rue du Marché-Champlain Tel: (418) 643 2158. Website: www.mcq.org Transport: Bus 1 or funicular. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730 (June 24-late Oct); daily 0930-1700 (May-Jun 23); Sat and Sun 1000-1700 (late Oct-Apr). Admission: Free. Fortifications de Québec One of the city’s most unique features is the 4.6km (2.9 mile) rampart encircling the Old Town, making it the only walled city north of Mexico. It is possible to walk along the top of the fortifications, which offer sweeping views of the city and the St Lawrence River. The best place to start is near the Citadel at Porte St-Louis, one of the four surviving city gates. Here, the Centre d’interprétation des Fortifications-de-Québec includes displays on the city’s history and a restored powder magazine and is the departure point for 90-minute guided tours by costumed Parks Canada staff. Continuing clockwise, the walls adjoin the Parc de l’Artillerie (Artillery Park), which was built by the French to defend the city from attack, then became the garrison for British officers until 1871, when it turned into a munitions factory. Now an interpretation centre features the 1808 model of Quebec City inside the foundry; the 1712 Dauphine Redoubt, which housed French soldiers and now replicates the 19th-century British officers’ mess and the 1818 British Officers’ Quarters. Further along, cannons are ranged along the wall, overlooking the St Lawrence River and the opposite shore. Beyond where it joins the Terrasse-Dufferin, it is possible to continue along the walls that surround the Citadel. Centre d’interprétation des Fortifications-de-Québec 100 rue St-Louis Tel: (418) 648 7016. Fax: (418) 648 7872. Website: www.parkscanada.gc.ca/fortifications Transport: Bus 3 or 11. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (early May-early Oct). Admission: C$2.75; C$10 guided tours of the walls (concessions available). Parc de l’Artillerie 2 rue D’Auteuil Tel: (418) 648 4205. Fax: (418) 648 4825. Website: www.parkscanada.gc.ca/artillerie Transport: Bus 3, 7, 11, 800 or 801. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (early May-Oct); Wed-Sun 1000-1700 (Apr-early May); Wed-Sun 1200-1600 (Feb-Mar). Open other days upon reservation. Admission: C$3.25 (concessions available); guided tours C$3.25 (Apr-Aug). La Citadelle de Québec The Citadel, dating from 1820, is one of Quebec City’s most distinctive features and a legacy of the British occupation. On the heights of Cap Diamant, the star-shaped fortress was built to withstand a repeat attack on the city from across the Plains of Abraham to the southwest. Today, visitors are given a one-hour guided tour of the site, which includes the Governor General’s residence, the powder magazine and a former prison that now houses a small museum. In the summer, two ceremonies are held: the daily Changing of the Guard takes place at 1000, with the Regimental Band and the Citadel’s mascot – ‘Batisse’, the regimental goat – joining the garrison personnel. The pomp continues in the evening, when the Royal 22nd Regiment performs The Retreat (Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday at 1800), as part of the flag-lowering ceremonies. Tel: (418) 694 2815. Fax: (418) 694 2853. Website: www.lacitadelle.qc.ca Transport: Bus 3 or 11. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1600 (Apr); 0900-1700 (May-Jun); 0900-1800 (Jul-Aug); 0900-1600 (Sep); 1000-1500 (Oct). Admission: C$6 (concessions available). Parc des Champs-de-Bataille nationaux The National Battlefields Park, occupying the 108-hectare (267-acre) Plains of Abraham to the southwest of the Citadel, is the site of the decisive battle of 1759 that saw the British, under General Wolfe, defeat Montcalm’s French forces. Today, it is a wide green space popular for summer concerts and as a place to stroll. For those with a taste for history, the Discovery Pavilion in the same building as the tourist office (835 avenue Wilfrid-Laurier) has a large diorama of the site and information on the battles. Midway through the park, Martello Tower No 1 has costumed guides who explain the role of these defensive structures (summer only). A part of the Musée du Québec is occupied by the Centre d’interprétation des Champs-de-Bataille, which has a multi-media show explaining the history of the park and the battle between the French and British in particular. Abraham’s Bus connects the sites, with the driver providing a commentary as it winds through the park. Centre d’interprétation des Champs-de-Bataille First Floor, Baillairgé Pavilion, Musée du Québec Tel: (418) 648 4071. Fax: (418) 648 3809. E-mail: ccbn.mdld.pa@videotron.ca Website: www.ccbn-nbc.gc.ca Transport: Bus 11, 800 or 801. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730 (May-mid-Oct); Tues-Sun 1000-1730 (mid-Oct-Apr). Admission: C$3.50 each for Centre d’interprétation, Martello Tower No 1 and Abraham’s Bus; C$9 for all three (concessions available). Musée du Québec The most important collection of paintings and sculpture by Québécois artists is held by the Musée du Québec. A selection of works are displayed in three chronological exhibitions: the earliest dates from the beginnings of Québécois art and is largely influenced by religion; the second covers the European-influenced modernist period up to 1945 and the third showcases figurative and abstract art from the mid-20th century. These are supplemented by travelling shows and permanent exhibitions that focus on the painter Jean-Paul Lemieux and the abstract painter and sculptor Jean-Paul Riopelle. The museum’s site at the southwest end of the Plains of Abraham is dotted with sculptures. Parc des Champs-de-Bataille Tel: (418) 643 2150. Fax: (418) 646 3330. Website: www.mdq.org Transport: Bus 11 to rue Wolfe-Montcalm or bus 800 or 801 to rue de Bourlamaque. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800, Wed until 2100 (Jun-early Sep); Tues-Sun 1000-1700, Wed until 2100 (winter). Admission: C$7; free on Wed except in summer. Musée de la Civilisation One of the city’s strongest museums, the Museum of Civilisation in Lower Town hosts excellent temporary shows in addition to its two permanent exhibitions. One of these focuses on life in the province of Quebec throughout the centuries of European inhabitation, with displays of artefacts, photos and recreations of historic and domestic scenes. The other is a tribute to the First Nations peoples who live in the province, with videotaped oral histories, birchbark canoes, teepees and many smaller artefacts. 85 rue Dalhousie Tel: (418) 643 2158. Fax: (418) 646 9705. Website: www.mcq.org Transport: Bus 1. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1830 (summer); Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (winter). Admission: C$7 (concessions available); free on Tues except in summer. Further Distractions Observatoire de la Capitale The best view of the city itself is from the Capital Observatory, 31 floors above the Hôtel du Parlement. Information panels give a good recap of Quebec City’s history, linking events to the buildings spread out below. From here, the plan of the defensive fortifications stands out, as does the layout of the Citadel. Across the St Lawrence River it is easy to pick out where General Wolfe amassed his troops prior to the attack on the city. Marie-Guyart Building, 31st Floor, 1037 rue de la Chevrotière Tel: (418) 644 9841 or (888) 497 4322. Fax: (418) 644 2879. Website: www.observatoirecapitale.org Transport: Bus 11, 25, 800 or 801. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (late Jun-mid-Oct); Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (winter). Admission: C$4 (concessions available). Musée d’Art INUIT Brousseau One of the city’s newest museums, this former collection of the Brousseau family (who own the gallery next door) is a small but thoughtfully chosen collection of Inuit art predominantly from the last half-century. Exhibits show the development from the naïve sculpture of the 1950s to the very individual works of contemporary artists working in whalebone or caribou antlers, as well as soapstone. Other displays show how the choice of material as well as the subject matter reflects the great regional diversity of Canada’s northern peoples. 39 rue St-Louis Tel: (418) 694 1828. Fax: (418) 694 2086. E-mail: artinuit@globetrotter.net Website: www.inuitart.ca Transport: Bus 3 or 11. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1730. Admission: C$6 (concessions available). Musée de l’Amérique française The Museum of French America comprises three separate buildings within the grounds of the vast Séminaire de Québec, the Catholic institution for religious and educational instruction. The museum details the history of the seminary and showcases a tiny part of the seminary’s vast collections of objects from the natural sciences and other disciplines. The museum also includes the former chapel, where daytime concerts are given in the summer. For American visitors, the highlight is the exhibition on the dispersal of their ancestors from New France throughout the USA; panels illustrate the paths of migration and there are genealogical tables available for family-tree researchers. 2 Côte de la Fabrique Tel: (418) 692 2843. Fax: (418) 692 5206. Website: www.mcq.org Transport: Bus 3, 7, 11, 800 or 801 to Place D’Youville. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (summer); Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (winter). Admission: C$4 (concessions available); free on Tues except in summer. Musée des Ursulines de Québec Marie Guyart de l’Incarnation arrived in Quebec City in 1639 along with two other Ursuline nuns to found the first Ursuline monastery and girls’ school in North America. Although most of the monastery is off limits, visits to the chapel with its early 18th-century decor, the Centre Marie-de-l’Incarnation information centre and the museum itself are possible. The museum includes artefacts from the settlers’ early days as well as religious paintings and other artworks. 12 rue Donnacona Tel: (418) 694 0694. Fax: (418) 694 2136. E-mail: murq@globetrotter.net Website: www.museocapitale.qc.ca/014a.htm Transport: Bus 3, 7, 11, 800 or 801 to Place D’Youville. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1200 and 1300-1700, Sun 1300-1700 (summer); Tues-Sun 1300-1700 (winter). Admission: C$5 (concessions available). Tours of the City Walking Tours Dozens of companies and attractions provide tours of Quebec City. One of the classic routes is to walk the 4.6km (2.9 miles) along the top of the fortification walls, with the option of continuing around the Citadel and along the Plains of Abraham; a partial tour is available from the Centre d’interprétation des Fortifications-de-Québec (see Key Attractions). The most flexible tours are offered by CD Tour (tel: (418) 990 8687) and are available at either tourist office. These are audio tours that allow the visitor to take their time and see the sights in whatever order they please (cost: C$10; C$15 per couple). Thematic walking tours are offered by the Quebec Historical Society (tel: (418) 692 0556; fax: (418) 692 0614; website: www.societehistoriquedequebec.qc.ca) and the Corporation du patrimoine et du tourisme religieux de Québec (tel: (418) 694 0665; website: www.patrimoine-religieux.com), which covers the city’s religious heritage – they also offer an online tour. Private companies, Maple Leaf Guide Service (tel: (418) 622 3677 or (877) 622 3677) and Les Tours Adlard (tel: (418) 692 2358) offer walking tours as well as bus tours. Bus Tours Nearly a dozen companies offer bus tours, with the basic city tour starting around C$25 for two to two-and-a-half hours including the Upper and Lower Towns, the fortifications and the Citadel, the Plains of Abraham and the National Assembly buildings. Most companies offer optional excursions, entry to attractions and/or combined tours (bus/walk or bus/boat), at increased duration and cost. Autocars Dupont/Gray Line de Québec (tel: (418) 649 9226 or (888) 558 7668; website: www.orleansexpress.com/grayline) and Old Quebec Tours (tel: (418) 664 0460 or (800) 267 8687; website: www.toursvieuxquebec.com) are two options. Boat Tours Boat cruises, which allow a magnificent view of the city, travel downstream to the Ile d’Orléans and beyond from the Bassin Louise, in the Old Port north of Upper Town. Les Croisières Le Coudrier (tel: (418) 692 0107; website: www.croisierescoudrier.qc.ca) offers 90-minute cruises for C$18.50, as well as dinner and cruise packages and longer excursions. Croisières AML (tel: (418) 692 1159 or (800) 563 4643; website: www.croisieresaml.com) offers similar packages starting at C$23, as well as whale-watching trips (see Excursions). Other Tours The most romantic way to tour the city is in a horse-drawn calèche. These can be hired just inside the city walls near Porte St-Louis from Calèches du Vieux-Québec (tel: (418) 683 9222 or 520 1555). Tours costs C$60 for 45 minutes for four people. Héli Express Tours (tel: (418) 877 5890) has helicopter flights over the St Lawrence River allowing views of the city and the Montmorency Falls. Departures are between 0900 and 2000 from the heliport on rue Abraham-Martin, located across the Bassin Louise from the Old Port. A 15-minute flight for four people costs around C$240. Excursions The following excursions are all located east of Quebec City along Highway 138 (Highway 362, which runs along the coast east of Baie-St-Paul, offers a slower but incredibly scenic alternative). Only the Montmorency Falls is accessible by public transport (bus 53), a 50-minute journey from Place Jacques-Cartier. Twice-daily Intercar coaches (website: www.intercar.qc.ca) stop at Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré, Baie-St-Paul and Tadoussac. A car is necessary to visit the Canyon-Ste-Anne and Ile d’Orléans. Many bus-tour companies include these destinations in their itineraries (see Tours of the City). For a Half Day Beaupré Coast: The different attractions east of Quebec City could be visited individually in as little as a couple of hours but could easily be combined to fill a whole day. Nearest the city, the Montmorency Falls (tel: (418) 663 3330; website: www.chutemontmorency.qc.ca) is a waterfall half as tall again as Niagara Falls, although with less water. A cable car (C$5 one way, C$7.50 return) leads to the centre d’interprétation (open daily from 0900 until around dusk, from mid-April to late October) and a bridge over the falls. Further east, the enormous Basilique de Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré (website: www.ssadb.qc.ca) has been drawing Catholic pilgrims for centuries; the cathedral is part of a complex including a museum and smaller chapels that mark the start of the Way of the Cross processional route up the hillside. Six kilometres (four miles) further on, three bridges are suspended across the Canyon Ste-Anne (tel: (418) 827 4057; website: www.canyonste-anne.qc.ca), offering dramatic views of the 74m (243ft) waterfall located there. Admission is C$7 (concessions available) from May to October. Ile d’Orléans: The rustic countryside of the Ile d’Orléans is visible from Quebec City’s Old Town and many locals escape here for fresh produce from roadside market stalls and the many excellent restaurants in the island’s inns. It is a pleasant place to drive around and the tourist office (tel: (418) 828 9411; website: www.iledorleans.qc.ca) near the bridge to the mainland provides audio tours (C$10) that chart the background of the early settlers and sailors who lived here. For a Whole Day Charlevoix: Around 60km (37 miles) east of Quebec City, the terrain changes dramatically as the Laurentian mountain chain meets the St Lawrence River. Amidst the forest-covered mountains are a couple of scenic provincial parks (website: www.sepaq.com) – Parc des Grands-Jardins, where caribou can be spotted and Parc des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie, with its mighty ravines – while closer to the coast is the town of Baie St-Paul. The initial view from the west is breathtaking, as the highway drops out of the mountains into the valley where the town lies. Artists have found the scenery stimulating and their output is visible at the many galleries in Baie St-Paul, supplemented by numerous restaurants and country inns. Information on the region is available from Tourisme Charlevoix (tel: (418) 665 4454 or (800) 667 2276; website: www.tourisme-charlevoix.com). Whale-watching: The Saguenay–St Lawrence Marine Park (website: http://parkscanada.pch.gc.ca/parks/quebec/saguenay_st-laurent) begins at the eastern end of Charlevoix and is an excellent place to spot belugas, humpbacks, fin whales and, occasionally, the mighty blue whale. From Quebec City, Croisières AML (tel: (418) 692 1159 or (800) 563 4643; website: www.croisieresaml.com) offers a coach-and-cruise trip for C$78, while for C$119-149, Croisières Dufour (tel: (418) 692 0222 or (800) 463 5250; website: www.familledufour.com) has a ten-hour excursion entirely by boat, departing at 0800. By car, it is a four-hour drive each way to Baie Ste-Catherine, where numerous companies offer three-hour whale-watching trips for around C$40-45 but it is better to stay overnight in one of the many bed and breakfasts in the pretty town of Tadoussac and make a weekend of it. Sport With the loss of the Québec Nordiques ice hockey team, Quebec City has been left without a team in any national league. Ice hockey action is now limited to Les Remparts de Québec (tel: (418) 525 1212; website: www.remparts.qc.ca) and Les Citadelles de Québec (tel: (418) 525 5333; website: www.citadellesdequebec.com), both of whom play at the Colisée Pepsi, a 15,000-seat arena at the ExpoCité exhibition complex (website: www.expocite.com). The complex, at the junction of highways 175 and 138, is also home to the Hippodrome de Québec harness-racing track. In summer, the Northern League baseball team, Les Capitales de Québec (tel: (418) 521 2255; website: www.capitalesdequebec.com), play at the 5000-seat Le Stade de Québec, in Victoria Park near Highway 173. The Transat Québec/St-Malo is the major sailing event; every four years (next in 2004), sailboats and catamarans compete in the Quebec City to St Malo, France race. The emphasis in the city is more on participating in sports rather than watching them. This is not surprising, given that within a 20-minute drive there are facilities for downhill and cross-country skiing, rafting, cycling, hiking, hunting and fishing. Within Quebec City itself, the Plains of Abraham offer residents and visitors alike a terrific outdoor venue for recreational activities, including playing fields, ten kilometres (six miles) of jogging and cross-country skiing trails and a large inline skating track at the park’s west end. Cycle paths begin at the Old Port, linking it with the Montmorency Falls to the east and a longer distance bike path to the west. Fitness centres: The YMCA in the Édifice Vieux-Québec, 650 avenue Wilfrid-Laurier (tel: (418) 522 0800; fax: (418) 522 0758), has squash courts, a swimming pool and workout facilities. The YWCA, 855 avenue Holland (tel: (418) 683 2155; fax: (418) 683 5526; website: www.ywcaquebec.qc.ca), has a swimming pool and classes such as aerobics but no gym. Golf: There are courses at a number of the ski centres around Quebec City, including Club de Golf Stoneham (tel: (418) 848 2414), 324 1ere avenue, with two 18-hole courses. Greens fees start at C$24. East of Quebec City, Le Grand Vallon (tel: (418) 827 4653 or (888) 827 4579, ext 4070; website: www.grandvallon.com) has a par-72 course below the slopes of Mont Ste-Anne at 100 rue Beau-Mont in Beaupré. Standard rates are C$55-75, dipping as low as C$32 for late-afternoon rounds. Closer to town and cheaper (C$23-28), the Club de Golf St-Laurent (tel: (418) 829 2244) has a par-72, 18-hole course, which is situated on Ile d’Orléans, 758 chemin Royale, overlooking the St Lawrence River. Skiing: There are three great ski hills in Quebec City’s vicinity. The Station touristique Stoneham (tel: (418) 848 2411 or (800) 463 6888; website: www.ski-stoneham.com) is 30km (19 miles) north of the city, near the Réserve Faunique des Laurentides, which itself has excellent cross-country skiing in the Fôret Montmorency. Forty kilometres (25 miles) to the east, Mont-Ste-Anne (tel: (418) 827 5281 or (800) 463 1568; website: www.mont-sainte-anne.com) is one of the best-known ski resorts in eastern North America and has a wide range of activities throughout the year. Further east, in Charlevoix, Le Massif (tel: (418) 632 5876 or (877) 536 2774; website: www.lemassif.com) has incredible views of the St Lawrence River. Tennis: The Club de tennis et squash Montcalm, 901 boulevard Champlain (tel: (418) 687 1250; website: www.tennismontcalm.qc.ca), has four interior and 11 exterior courts, as well as three squash courts. Costs are C$13-26 for tennis and C$7-10 for squash, plus C$6 per person for non-members. Shopping Within Old Town, the main shopping areas are on rues Ste-Anne, De Buade and St-Jean, where there is a mix of tourist shops, clothing stores and boutiques selling everything from handicrafts to Inuit art. The best example of the latter is Brousseau et Brousseau, at 35 rue St-Louis, next door to the Inuit art museum and its outlets at 69 rue Ste-Anne and 43 rue De Buade, both under the name Aux Multiples Collections. The most atmospheric place to shop has to be in the Quartier Petit Champlain in Lower Town (website: www.quartier-petit-champlain.qc.ca). Here, the cobblestone streets are lined with boutiques and shops selling artisanal wares. The Verrerie La Mailloche (website: www.lamailloche.qc.ca) is especially interesting – one of the province’s ‘economuseums’, it combines a glass-blowing workshop, displays on the craft and a boutique where the finished product can be purchased. Beyond Old Quebec, most local residents shop at the larger suburban shopping malls or on avenue Cartier, a delightful street of boutiques, local fashion designers and restaurants, not far from the Musée du Québec. To the southwest of Quebec City, in the suburb of Ste-Foy where highway 175 meets the 740, is one of the largest shopping complexes in North America, made up of three adjoining shopping malls – Place Laurier, Place Ste-Foy and Place de la Cité – with over 600 shops between them. The other main centre is Galeries de la Capitale, with 250 shops, located at the junction of highways 40 and 740, west of Old Town. In the Old Port, north of Old Town, at 160 Quai St-André, is the large public market, Le Marché du Vieux-Port. Fresh produce, flowers, cheese and meat are on sale here daily between 0800 and 1900. For truly farm-fresh goods, it is only a 20-minute drive to the Ile d’Orléans, where dozens of roadside stalls are heaped with fruits and vegetables throughout the summer and cabanes à sucre (sugar shacks) offer maple syrup products in the early spring. Shops are generally open Monday to Wednesday 1000-1800, Thursday and Friday 1000-2100 and Saturday and Sunday 1000-1700. The 7% federal Goods and Services Tax (GST) and 7.5% provincial Quebec Sales Tax (QST) are levied on most products and services. Non-residents can apply for a rebate on the GST portion on goods for use outside of Canada as well as on short-term accommodation; the total pre-tax value must exceed C$200, with a C$50 minimum for each individual invoice. The Canada Customs and Revenue Agency (tel: (902) 432 5608 or (800) 668 4748; website: www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca/visitors) can provide further information. Culture Quebec City’s cultural scene runs the gamut from the high aspects of opera and symphony to intimate boites à chansons, with their Celtic-tinged Québécois folk music. While there is some experimental theatre – boosted by local son Robert Lepage – much of the theatre tends towards the mainstream, with larger performances often consisting of light-hearted musicals. Films are primarily in French but there are usually at least a couple of screens showing English-language flicks at any given time. The best way to appreciate the culture, however, is during one of the large festivals, in which almost the whole city seems to become involved. Québec Sur Scène (website: www.surscene.qc.ca) has information on dance, theatre, classical music and other shows. Tickets for many events are available from Réseau Billetech (website: www.billetech.com) and Admission (tel: (800) 361 4595; website: www.admission.com), as well as the venues themselves. Music: The city’s main symphony orchestra, the Orchestre symphonique de Québec (tel: (418) 643 5598 or 643 8486, bookings; website: www.osq.qc.ca), performs at Quebec City’s most prestigious venue, Le Grand Théâtre de Québec, 269 boulevard René-Lévesque Est (website: www.grandtheatre.qc.ca). The Grand Théâtre is also the home of the Opéra de Québec (tel: (418) 529 4142; website: www.operadequebec.qc.ca) and features performances by visiting soloists and orchestras organised by the Club Musical de Québec music society. The chamber orchestra, Les Violons du Roy (website: www.violonsduroy.com) performs at the Palais Montcalm on Place D’Youville when they take a break from their hectic touring schedule. Many of Quebec City’s churches provide a wonderful ambience for classical concerts – Chalmers-Wesley United Church, 78 rue Ste-Ursule, has organ concerts on Sunday at 1800 during the summer, while the chapel in the Musée de l’Amérique française has daytime concerts. In summer, music moves out of doors, with classical concerts at the Kiosque Edwin-Bélanger bandstand (tel: (418) 648 4050; website: www.surscene.qc.ca) on the Plains of Abraham, as well as occasional concerts at the open-air Agora in the Old Port. Further afield, Domaine Forget (tel: (418) 452 3535 or (888) 336 7438; website: www.domaineforget.com), 140km (87 miles) east of Quebec City in Ste-Irénée (near La Malbaie in Charlevoix), is renowned for its summer concert series. Theatre: The Grand Théâtre de Québec, 269 boulevard René-Lévesque Est (website: www.grandtheatre.qc.ca), hosts some of the city’s larger theatre productions, in addition to concerts. The resident company is the three-decade old Le Théâtre du Trident (tel: (418) 643 5873; website: www.letrident.com), which performs modern French works and translations of American and European plays. Le Capitole de Québec, 972 rue St-Jean (tel: (418) 694 4444 or (800) 261 9903; website: www.lecapitole.com), has dinner theatre performances and a smaller cabaret venue. Théâtre de la Bordée, 1143 rue St-Jean (tel: (418) 694 9721 or 9631 (bookings); website: www.bordee.qc.ca), has a contemporary, often cutting-edge, programme. They will be moving to 315 rue St-Joseph early in 2002. Dance: There are no major permanent dance companies in the city. La Rotonde, 310 boulevard Langelier (tel: (418) 649 5013; website: www.larotonde.qc.ca), produces shows by touring and local contemporary dance companies, although only some performances take place at the actual venue. Film: Most films are screened in French, although at the beginning of a film’s run the original English version (v.o.a.) may be available in the suburban multiplexes, especially in Ste-Foy. The main repertory house, Cinéma le Clap, 2360 chemin Ste-Foy (tel: (418) 650 2527; website: www.clap.qc.ca), also has occasional English-language offerings. The weekly Voir is the best source for listings. The 1991 film Robe Noire (Black Robe) captured the life of 17th-century New France, with a young Jesuit priest departing early Quebec City with his Algonquin guides to visit a remote mission. Filming took place near La Baie, two-and-a-half hours’ drive away; the set has been converted into a tourist attraction: Site de la Nouvelle-France, du Vieux chemin, Saint-Félix-d’Otis (tel: (418) 544 8027; website: www.royaume.com/nouvelle-france). Le Confessional (1995), directed by renowned theatre director Robert Lepage, jumps back and forth between present day Quebec City and 1952, during the time that Alfred Hitchcock filmed I Confess (released in 1953). Cultural events: Three festivals dominate the Quebec City calendar, including the Carnaval de Québec (tel: (418) 626 3716; website: www.carnaval.qc.ca), famous for its mascot, Bonhomme Carnaval. The two-week winter carnival has long been a boozy favourite – necessary to ward off the February cold, of course – although organisers are trying to change the focus to a more family-orientated atmosphere. All sorts of winter activities from building ice castles to tobogganing and ice skating are on offer. In early July, the 11-day Festival d’Été (Summer Festival) (tel: (418) 529 5200 or (888) 992 5200; website: www.infofestival.com) transforms the whole of the city centre into a stage, with a full schedule of over 500 concerts including classical music, opera, Québécois rock and techno sets. The following month, Les Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France (tel: (418) 694 3311; website: www.nouvellefrance.qc.ca) takes participants back to the 17th and 18th centuries before the British conquest. Visitors from around the province dress in period costume to partake in events in Lower Town, whose perfect setting is enlivened by open-air markets, entertainers and typical activities of the period. Literary Notes Other than journals of the early explorers, such as Samuel de Champlain, the first literature out of Quebec City was François-Xavier Garneau’s Histoire du Canada (1845-48). The life and habits of late 18th-century Québécois were captured in Philippe Aubert de Gaspé’s Les Anciens Canadiens (1863), a name that is now used by the restaurant that occupies the 1677 Maison Jacquet, 34 rue St-Louis, where he lived. Anne Hébert, the novelist and poet born in Ste-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier, a village west of the city, wrote Kamouraska (1974), based on a real-life love-triangle and murder in the 1840s in the eponymous town on the south shore of the St Lawrence, east of Quebec City. Jacques Poulin, known for The ‘Jimmy’ Trilogy of novels (1967-70) studied at Université Laval, as did Antonine Maillet, whose Pélagie-la Charette (1979) won the Prix Goncourt, France’s top literary prize. Nightlife There is no shortage of drinking establishments and entertainment venues in Quebec City, both within the city walls and in the districts nearby. Within the Old Town, there are boites à chansons (intimate and lively venues featuring solo singers or small groups of musicians), classy hotel lounge bars, pubs and more alternative bars, especially on and around rue St-Jean. West of Place D’Youville, rue St-Jean becomes more laid-back, attracting students to the friendly local bars and gay men and lesbians to the small but lively gay scene. Grand Allée has some of the best clubs but these are mixed in with tourist traps and venues with hardly anyone over 21 years of age. Further afield, there are some decent local bars amidst the restaurants on avenue Cartier, while the ever-changing discos in the suburb of Ste-Foy are the stomping ground of students from Université Laval. For the latest on Quebec City’s bar and club scene, check the listings in the free alternative weekly, Voir (website: www.voir.ca), the weekly English-language newspaper, the Québec Chronicle Telegraph, or the French dailies Le Soleil (website: www.lesoleil.com) and Journal de Québec (website: www.journaldequebec.com). The free tourist publications Québec Scope and Voilà Québec are also helpful, as is the Télégraphe de Québec website (www.telegraphe.com). Québec Sur Scène (website: www.surscene.qc.ca) has information on rock concerts, comedy shows and cultural events. Tickets for many events are available from Réseau Billetech (website: www.billetech.com) and Admission (tel: (800) 361 4595; website: www.admission.com). The legal minimum drinking age is 18 years. Taverns and brasseries serve alcohol 0800-0300 every day. Cocktail lounges and cabarets stay open until 0200 and 0300 respectively. Bars: Relaxed spots can be found on rue St-Jean, a five- or ten-minute walk from the Old Town: check out Le Fou Bar at number 525, Sacrilège at number 447 or L’Étrange at number 275 – popular for its half-price drinks specials. At the other end of the spectrum, although not as pricey or stuffy as you would expect, given the terrific view and prestigious location, is the Bar St-Laurent in the Chateau Frontenac. The brew-pub L’Inox, 37 rue St-André in Lower Town, has a great terrace and serves artisanal cheeses to go with the local beer. In the Upper Town, at 1087 rue St-Jean, Le Pub Saint-Alexandre’s attempt to recreate a British pub is helped by the selection of over 200 beers and 40 single malt scotches. Pub Java, away from Old Quebec at 1112 avenue Cartier, serves up a few varieties of draught beer as well, although in a less touristy setting. Just down the street at number 1060, Jules et Jim is an established local favourite. Gay offerings include L’Amour Sorcier, 789 Côte Ste-Geneviève, which attracts a predominately lesbian clientele. Boys tend to congregate on the short stretch of rue St-Augustin, where La Drague at number 804 has Sunday night drag shows, a bar and dance floor and Lazyboy, on the corner at 811 rue St-Jean, has a quieter space with pool tables. Casinos: The nearest casino is the Casino Charlevoix (tel: (418) 665 5300 or (800) 665 2274; website: www.casinos-quebec.com), adjacent to the grand old hotel Le Manoir Richelieu in La Malbaie, 150km (93 miles) east of Quebec City. There is no entry fee and a passport is not required but gamblers must be 18 years or over and respectably dressed (although jeans are allowed). Clubs: Many of the city’s bars have dance floors and an atmosphere that becomes more club-like later on in the evening. Otherwise, the hottest spot at the moment is Maurice, 575 Grande-Allée E, part of a complex of bars and restaurants that includes a lounge with salsa dancing and a swanky cigar lounge. Le Dagobert, across the street at number 600, has been around for years and is popular with very young tourists. At 1175 avenue Cartier, Merlin draws the city’s beautiful (and they know it) crowd. Scanner, 291 rue St-Vallier E, is a good spot for techno nights, while Quebec City’s main gay dance venue is La Drague (see Bars above). Live music: Big-name acts play at the Colisée Pepsi on the ExpoCité grounds at the junction of highways 175 and 138. In the summer, the open-air Agora in the Old Port has all manner of acts from rock to classical, while the city comes alive with stages all over the place during the 11-day Festival d’Été (Summer Festival), when many indoor venues also get into the act. One of the more popular boites à chansons is Chez Son Père, 24 rue St-Stanislas, which is a lively spot for Québécois music. The best spot for jazz is in the Art Deco confines of L’Emprise in the Hôtel Clarendon at 57 rue Ste-Anne. City Statistics Location: Province of Quebec, Canada. Country dialling code: 1. Population: 167,264 (city); 504,605 (Quebec Urban Community); 671,889 (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: Canadian 41.8%, French 38.6%, combined origin 13.5%, other 4.7%, British 1.4%. Time zone: GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from first Sunday in April to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 110 volts AC, 60 Hz; regular 2-pin and grounded US-style 3-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: - 8°C (18°F). Average July temp: 25°C (77°F). Annual rainfall: 882mm (34 inches). Annual snowfall: 337mm (13 inches). Special Events Carnaval de Québec, winter carnival, early Feb, various locations Le Salon international du livre de Québec, French-language book fair, early Apr, Centre des Congrès La Fête du Faubourg, local street fair, early Jul, rue St-Jean Festival d’Été de Québec (Quebec Summer Festival), early Jul, various locations Les Grands Feux Loto-Québec, fireworks festival, Jul-Aug, Montmorency Falls Festival International de Musiques Militaires de Québec, Quebec City International Festival of Military Bands, Aug, various locations Les Fétes de la Nouvelle-France (New France Celebration Days), early Aug, Lower Town Festival des Journées d’Afrique et Danses et Rhythmes du Monde, world music festival, early Aug, various locations Expo Québec, agricultural exhibition and fun fair, late Aug, ExpoCité Quebec International Film Festival, late Aug-early Sep, various locations Fête Arc-en-ciel, gay pride festival, early Sep, various locations Festival des couleurs Mont-Sainte-Anne, mid-Sep-mid-Oct, Mont-Ste-Anne Festival de Musique Sacrée de Québec, late Oct-early Nov, various venues in the St-Roch neighbourhood Skate Canada International, skating competition, late Oct-early Nov, Colisée Pepsi Un Noël Victorien (A Victorian Christmas), early Dec, Parc de l’Artillerie Snowboard FIS World Cup, mid-Dec, Mont-Ste-Anne Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: C$1-1.50 33cl bottle of beer: C$1.50 Financial Times newspaper: C$2 36-exposure colour film: C$8 City-centre bus ticket: C$1.90-2.25 Adult baseball ticket: C$6-13 Three-course meal with wine/beer: From C$15 1 Canadian Dollar (C$1) = £0.42; US$0.67; A$1.10; €0.62 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.