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_City Overview Over a decade after Latvia declared independence from the Soviet Union, Riga is a city on the up and up. In 2001, the city celebrated its 800th year and things have seldom looked so rosy for the cosmopolitan capital that was once revered across Europe as the ‘Paris of the North’. The promised land of both European Union and NATO membership beckons and, since 1991, the economy has been transformed beyond recognition. The city is now firmly on the tourist map. Riga is already the de facto Baltic business capital, leaving Estonia’s Tallinn and Lithuania’s Vilnius in its wake. Increasingly, for tourists, it is becoming the most rewarding city of the three, with visitor attractions spruced up and an ever-burgeoning proliferation of hotels at all levels. Riga, a city older than both Stockholm and St. Petersburg, is the only Baltic capital to have a real big-city buzz. Unfortunately it is increasingly suffering from all of the problems that face any large metropolis, with crime – including robbery and mugging of tourists – on the rise. Any lingering images of Communist deprivations, however, are quickly blasted away by a stroll around this city, with its gleaming renovated buildings, its fashion conscious mobile-phone carrying youth and the new bars and cafés that seem to be opening everywhere. On a sunny day, as the smart office workers vie for space in the city’s grand squares with students clad in all the latest designer gear, this could be anywhere in Europe. Things have not always been so good for the Latvian capital, as throughout its turbulent history it has been routinely sacked, occupied, reoccupied and then sacked again, by everyone from the Teutonic Knights and the Swedes, through to the French and the Polish. In the 20th century came devastating invasions by the Nazis and Stalin. The Soviets left behind the eyesore housing estates on the city’s periphery and some lingering Stalinist era architecture. But their traces gradually are being paved over. The focus, as it has always been, is firmly on the Old Town, which tumbles towards the banks of the Daugava River in a maze of cobbles, voluminous spires and impressive squares. It is ironic that the city that was once besieged and captured by Germany now has – after Germany’s own World War II obliteration – Europe’s most impressive array of Germanic Art Nouveau architecture. A fact recognised by UNESCO, on their World Heritage List. Across Bastekalns Park lies the New Town, the commercial and business heart of the city, with its broad avenues and grid-like layout, while further down river is the city’s sprawling port. The Baltic Sea is just over 12km (seven miles) away but Riga’s weather is not as harsh as many people imagine. Winter can indeed be long, dark and bitter but spring and summer days are often blessed with balmy daytime temperatures and long hours of daylight. When the sun shines, the city’s numerous parks fill up, tables spill out of cafés and revellers laze along the city canal in rowing boats, in a scene that is more Mediterranean than Eastern European. Getting There By Air Riga International Airport (RIX) Tel: 722 3305. Fax: 721 1767. Website: www.riga-airport.com Riga International Airport (Lidosta Riga), located 13km (eight miles) southwest of the city, handles an increasing number of direct flights to cities all over Europe, handling 600,000 passengers in 2001. The majority of the routes are in Central and Eastern Europe. A major renovation programme recently has been completed and has brought the airport up to international standards. The terminal now has a capacity of one and a half million passengers per year. Further work, which is scheduled for completion in 2003, will see the expansion of the airport’s runway. Major airlines: Air Baltic (tel: 720 7069; website: www.airbaltic.com) is the national airline, partnered with Scandinavian Airlines – SAS (tel: 720 7543; website: www.scandinavian.net). The joint Swedish–Latvian airline, Trans East Airlines (tel: 720 7771; website: www.junik.lv/~tea), is also registered in Latvia. Other major airlines include Aeroflot, Austrian Airlines, British Airways, Czech Airlines, Estonian Air, Finnair, LOT (Polish Airlines), Lufthansa and Transaero. Approximate flight times to Riga: From London is 2 hours 30 minutes; from New York is 9 hours 35 minutes; from Los Angeles is 12 hours 20 minutes; from Toronto is 10 hours 35 minutes and from Sydney is 24 hours. Airport facilities: These include bureau de change, ATM, lost property bureau, post office, left-luggage, hotel reservations, tourist information, bar, café, duty-free shops, pharmacy, medical service and car hire from Avis, Budget and Hertz. Business facilities: There is a business lounge with an international telephone and fax service, bar and international television programmes, for business-class ticket holders. VIP services are also available by arrangement (tel: 720 7132) and include welcome, express check-in and light refreshments. Arrival/departure tax: None. Transport to the city: Riga Taxi Park (tel: 720 7509) operates a 24-hour taxi service to the city centre. Taxis can be ordered at the counter in the arrivals hall or picked up outside, at the taxi stand. There is a Ls2 embarkation fee and the metre rate is Ls0.35 per kilometre. Visitors should expect to pay Ls7-10 for journeys to the Old Town (journey time – 15 minutes). Baggage is charged at Ls0.40. Public transport bus 22 departs from outside the terminal building for the city centre every 20-30 minutes (0545-2240) and costs Ls0.20. There are drop-off points at Riga’s central station and Strelnieku laukums (journey time – 30 minutes). Getting There By Water Riga’s port is located within easy reach of the city centre. Limited passenger ferry services operate from the Sea Passenger Terminal (Juras Pasazieru Stacija), Eksporta 3a (tel: 732 6200). Basic facilities include bureau de change, toilets and café. Riga Port Authority (tel: 732 2569; website: www.randburg.com/lv/port_aut) provides further information. Ferry services: There are international services to two German destinations. Kiel is served by Hanzas Juras Agentura, 10 Eksporta (tel: 732 3569), and Lübeck by Latlines, 1 Zizju (tel: 734 9527; website: www.latlines.lv). A new destination for 2002 is the Swedish capital, Stockholm, which is served by the fast ferry of Riga Juras Linija (tel: 760 1133). Transport to the city: Central Riga is just two stops away, on trams number 5, 7 or 9, all of which leave from the Ausekla stop, right in front of the terminal building. Getting There By Road Road conditions in Latvia are variable and, while most main roads are of a fairly good standard, some minor roads become muddy bogs during heavy rainfall or snowmelt. Main routes in Latvia are designated by a number. Speed limits are 50kph (31mph) in towns, 70kph (43mph) in suburban areas, 90kph (56mph) on open roads and 110kph (68mph) on motorways. Driving in Latvia is on the right and the minimum driving age is 18 years. Foreigners driving their own vehicles are required to carry a national licence, an International Driving Permit, proof of third-party insurance – such as the international Green Card – and registration documents, at all times. It is compulsory to wear seatbelts and fines for minor offences, such as speeding, are given on the spot – a receipt should be issued. Drink driving is illegal and the legal alcohol to blood limit for driving is zero. It is also illegal for drivers to use handheld mobile telephones while driving. From the beginning of October to the beginning of April, it is compulsory to drive with vehicle lights switched on. The Auto-Moto Society of Latvia – LAMB (tel: 732 5111; e-mail: lamb@lamb.lv; website: www.lamb.lv) provides further information. Emergency breakdown service: Riga Autostavietas 737 4611 Routes to the city: The main transit corridors to Riga are the north–south Via Baltica, which runs from Tallinn to Warsaw through Riga, Vilnius and Kaunas, and Via Hanseatica, which runs from Berlin to Riga through Gdansk, Kaliningrad and Siauliai. Corridors also run east–west, linking Riga to Moscow, Ventspils, Liepaja, Vitebsc and Pskow. The A2 northeast from Riga leads to Cesis. Approximate driving times to Riga: From Cesis – 1 hour 45 minutes; Vilnius – 5 hours; Tallinn – 5 hours 30 minutes. Coach services: Passenger facilities at Riga’s coach station (Autoosta), Pragas 1 (tel: 900 0009 – calls charged at a premium rate), include an ATM, bureau de change, café, left-luggage, pharmacy, shops, taxi park and barber shop. The bus station operates both international and domestic services. Tickets to all international destinations can be purchased at the ticket offices in the bus terminal. Reputable operators include the main state motor firm, Nordeka (tel: 746 4620), which operates regular long-distance and international services, as well as Autostars (tel: 731 1810), for services to Kiev, Moscow and Western European cities, and Eurolines (tel: 721 4080; fax: 750 3134), for services to Berlin, Bremen, Kiel, Warsaw, Prague, Vilnius, Tallinn, Munich, Kaliningrad, Cologne and London. Eurolines generally has the most modern and comfortable buses, with luxurious double-deckers now plying the Tallinn route. Getting There By Rail Latvia’s national railway company, Latvijas dzelzcels (tel: 583 3113; website: www.ldz.lv), operates rail services in Riga. Development of the Latvian railways has not been a great priority since independence in 1991. The system has suffered as a result of this. Most trains are poorly maintained and delays are common– the routes to the satellite towns and villages around Riga generally have a better service than intercity and international routes. Riga’s central station, Centrala Stacija, Stacijas laukums (tel: 583 3095 or 2134), has separate departure and arrival halls for international and domestic services. Passenger facilities include ATM, bureau de change, train service information (Ls0.10 for oral questions and Ls0.20 for written questions), post office, left luggage, cafés and restaurants. Rail services: Long-distance rail services in Riga can be slow and prone to delays. Tickets for mainline services are sold in the main departure hall and tickets for the electric commuter trains are sold in the smaller departure hall. Long-distance journeys can be booked in advance (tel: 583 3397) and tickets will be delivered for Ls2. Direct trains go to Minsk (journey time – 8 hours), Vilnius (journey time – 10 hours) and Moscow (journey time – 16 hours). Trains no longer run to Tallinn, Berlin and Warsaw. Transport to the city: Centrala Stacija is located next to Old Riga. Visitors with manageable luggage are best advised to walk. The taxi drivers who line up outside the station usually refuse to take passengers into town for less than Ls4, as there is a Ls3 fee for all vehicles entering the Old Town, including taxis. Getting Around Public Transport Riga’s Transport Information Authority (tel: 738 2645; website: www.ttp.lv) provides cheap and plentiful public transport, with buses, trams and trolley buses operating 0530-2400. In addition, some routes have an hourly night service. Each mode of transport requires a separate ticket, which can only be brought from the on-board conductor (Konduktor). There is a flat fee of Ls0.20 for each journey. Routes are displayed on the Riga City Map available from most city kiosks.Comfortable mikroautobus and taksobuss operate 0900-2400 and cost Ls0.10-Ls0.20, depending on the route taken.Suburban electric commuter trains run to Skulte, Aizkraukle, Jelgava, Dubulti, Kemeri, Lielvarde, Ogre, Salaspils, Saulkrasti, Sloka and Tukums (0500-2300). The fare is Ls0.40-Ls1.05, depending on the distance travelled. A one-month bus pass costs Ls11.70 or Ls5.50 for one route. A one-month trolley bus/tram pass costs Ls11.70. Passes are available from post offices and most city kiosks. The Riga Card (see Sightseeing) gives visitors free use of trolley buses, buses and trams. Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street or pre-booked by telephone. Riga Taxi (tel: 800 1313, toll free) and Bona (tel: 800 5050, toll free) are both reputable companies. Whenever possible, visitors should only use the official metered taxis. The meter rate is Ls0.30 per kilometre, rising to Ls0.40 per kilometre 2200-0600. When taking non-metered taxis, it is essential to agree the fare in advance. A tip of 10% is generally expected and appreciated. Limousines The major car hire companies (see Car Hire) provide limousine services. Rates start at Ls150 per day. The average fare from the airport is Ls25. Driving in the City Riga has a reasonable network of well-maintained roads. However, driving in the city can be a frightening experience, as other road users are generally aggressive and fast, erratic driving is common – or, even worse, some locals choose to flaunt Latvia’s stringent drink-driving laws. Defensive driving, quick reactions and nerves of steel are essential. Car parks that are open 24 hours are identifiable by the Autostavieta sign. A central car park can be found at Pragas 2, opposite the bus station. Rates are Ls0.30-Ls1 per hour. Car Hire A valid International Driving Permit, national licence and passport are required to hire a car in Riga. There is a minimum age of 21 years. This can be raised to 23 or 25 years, with two years’ minimum driving experience, depending on the hire company and car model. Third-party insurance is compulsory. Major providers include Avis (tel: 720 7353; website: www.avis.com), Europcar (tel: 721 2652; website: www.europcar.com) and Hertz (tel: 720 7980; website: www.hertz.com). Hire of a standard saloon car costs from Ls30 per day or Ls150 per week. Bicycle Hire Gandrs, Kalncienna 28 (tel: 761 4775), hires bicycles for Ls5 per day. Business Business Profile Riga and Latvia have come a long way since independence in 1991, with the old Communist economy completely abandoned in favour of a rush towards outright Capitalism. Such has been the success of the transformation that Latvia is now in the negotiation process for European Union membership, which most Latvians consider essential for continued economic growth. There have been problems along the way, most notably the banking collapse of 1995. The average wage is still only around US$200 a month, although the economic fundamentals are looking good and the report card for a decade of hard work is impressive. In 2001, Latvia registered one of the highest growth rates in Europe, at almost 7%. Riga is the economic heart of the country, with all major Latvian companies and many international players, with KPMG, Price Waterhouse and Radisson all having a presence in the city. The main Latvian industries were traditionally wood processing, textiles and agriculture but since 1991, the service sector and tourism, in particular, has become increasingly important. Unemployment in Latvia as a whole is running at 8.2%, while in Riga the figure is slightly lower at around 7%. The main business district is the New Town, however, many companies are also located at Riga's port, with an increasing number of industrial companies moving out to sites on the city outskirts. Riga Stock Exchange is located at Doma laukums 6 (tel: 721 2431; fax: 782 0504; website: www.rfb.lv). Internet cafés are springing up around Riga. However, for high-speed connections and a good range of business services, business visitors should head for the Radisson Hotel, Amberland, Kuga 24 (tel: 706 1180). Of the public Internet cafés, three of the most reliable are Biltecks, Jekaba 20, Electronic Café, Elizabetes 83-85 and Internet Klubs, Brivibas 3a. Business Etiquette In general, Riga is moving away from how things used to be done in the old Soviet Union days, and firmly embracing the Western European example of how business is conducted. Hence, few businesspeople have any major problems in a city where the etiquette is fairly similar to that in London, Paris or Frankfurt. Dress code is relatively formal, with suit and tie expected for business meetings, although new technology-based industries have got behind the trend of dressing down in more casual gear. Handshakes are the normal way to start any meeting and gifts are appreciated, especially luxury items like watches and quality single-malt Scottish whisky. In a nation with a high per capita rate of alcohol consumption, most evening meetings and dinners, and indeed many lunches, are peppered with alcoholic drinks. Business hours are normally Monday to Friday 0900-1700. The old Soviet era tendency to turn public holidays into an excuse for two or three days off work seems to be waning. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Sightseeing is made easy in Riga, by the fact that most of the sights are handily located within a compact area on the left bank of the Daugava River. The Old Town overflows with things to see but one of the real pleasures is just wandering around the cobbled streets, taking an architectural journey through the centuries, in a city where Gothic, Renaissance and Art Nouveau abound, often competing for attention on the same street. Recognised sights include the voluminous religious twins of St Peter’s Church and Dome Cathedral, both worth exploring in detail. Riga also boasts numerous museums, with the Latvian War Museum, the Occupation Museum and Mentzendorff House among many others deserving of attention. Neatly dividing the Old Town and New Town is Bastejkalns Park, with its lazy canal, cafés and walkways. In the middle of the park is the Freedom Monument, one of Riga’s and indeed Latvia’s most poignant sites, a symbol of both the nation’s fight for nationhood and the four decades of resistance to Communist rule. Further afield there are boat cruises on the Daugava River and excursions to the Baltic Sea resort of Jurmala. With its sweeping pine flanked beaches, Jurmala provides the perfect escape if all that history and culture gets too much. Tourist Information Riga Tourism Information Centre (Riga Turisma Informacijas Centrs) Ratslaukums 6 Tel/fax: 704 4377 Fax: 704 4317 E-mail: tourinfo@rcc.lv Website: www.riga800.lv Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. There is also a tourist information bureau at the airport. Passes The Riga Card gives visitors free use of buses, trolley buses and trams, free train trips to Vecaki and Jurmala, free or discounted museum admission and discounts in shops, cafés, restaurants and on car hire. The card can be purchased at the Tourist Information Centre, at the airport, at selected hotels and anywhere displaying the RC sign. The Riga Card costs Ls8 for 24 hours, Ls12 for 48 hours and Ls16 for 72 hours. Children pay half price. Key Attractions Brivibas Piemineklis (Freedom Monument) The voluminous Freedom Monument has a sacred place in the hearts and minds of every Latvian. This potent symbol of the nation was erected by the citizens of Riga in 1935 and somehow survived four decades of Soviet rule. A popular local joke during the Communist era was that the monument was really a travel agent, since laying flowers at it guaranteed a one-way ticket to Siberia. Today, the monument, the tallest of its kind in Europe, is back to its best, after a major renovation, and still retains its poignancy, as well as doubling up as a favourite meeting point for the city’s youth. Brivibas iela and Raina bulvaris Transport: Bus 21, 22 or 32; trolley bus 3, 13, 15 or 18; tram 3, 6, 7, 8, 10 or 13. Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) Ironically, the best place to see Jugendstil – the German-style Art Nouveau architecture – is in Riga, seeing as it did not suffer the same World War II devastation as many German cities. Riga quite simply has the finest and most comprehensive range of Art Nouveau architecture in Europe. The style is unmistakable, with ornate stucco swirls adorning doorways, human faces embellishing façades and outlandish towers growing from the tops of buildings. The best way for visitors to appreciate this architectural treasure-trove is just to wander through the New Town, staring upwards. One of the best examples of Jugendstil is at Elizabetes iela, where an apartment building is laden with all the telltale signs of this ornate architectural style. These apartments were designed by Mikhail Eisenstein, whose work can also be viewed at Alberta iela. New Town, Elizabetes 10a and 10b and Alberta 2, 2a, 4, 6, 8 and 13. Transport: Bus 21, 22 or 32; trolley bus 3, 13, 15 or 18; tram 3, 6, 7, 8, 10 or 13 to city centre; within walking distance of each other. Riga Doms (Riga Cathedral) Riga Cathedral is the most photographed religious building in Riga. Its foundations were laid on St Jacob’s Day in 1211, by Albert von Buxhoeveden, who became its first bishop. The cathedral is an intoxicating collage of Gothic and Romanesque styles. In the interior museum there are displays portraying Riga between the World Wars, as well as maps and postcards of Old Riga. One of the highlights is the world-famous organ crafted in 1883/1884, by the German company Waclker & Co and decorated with wooden carvings from as early as the 17th and 18th centuries. Doma laukums 1 Tel: 721 3498. Transport: Bus 21, 22 or 32; trolley bus 3, 13, 15 or 18; tram 3, 6, 7, 8, 10 or 13. Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1300-1800, Sat 1000-1400. Admission: Free. Petera Baznica (St Peter’s Church) Another of Riga’s most striking edifices is St Peter’s Church, which is dedicated to the city’s patron saint. This unmistakable redbrick style is common throughout countries that border the Baltic, from Germany through to Estonia. The sturdy church dates back to 1408, when it was built to replace a wooden church on the same site. The wooden spire, the highest in Europe, was obliterated by German shelling in 1941. The 122m (403ft) steel replica, completed in 1973, has a lift that shuttles tourists to an observation gallery offering sweeping views of the city. Skarnu 19 Website: www.peterbaznica.lv Transport: Bus 21, 22 or 32; trolley bus 3, 13, 15 or 18; tram 3, 6, 7, 8, 10 or 13. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1715. Admission: Free (church); Ls1.50 (tower lift). Latvijas Okupacijas Muzeja (Occupation Museum of Latvia) The Occupation Museum is an essential stop that many tourists tragically miss out on. Housed in a remarkably ugly Communist-era building, the museum takes visitors on a journey through Latvia’s turbulent, recent history – from the Soviet and Nazi occupations during World War II, right up to the tumultuous events that led to Latvian independence in 1991. Outside, the statue of the Latvian riflemen is highly controversial – to some they were Latvian patriots and to others little more than volunteer Nazis. Strelnieku laukums 1 Tel: 721 2715. Website: www.occupationmuseum.lv Transport: Bus 21, 22 or 32; trolley bus 3, 13, 15 or 18; tram 3, 6, 7, 8, 10 or 13. Opening hours: Mon-Sun 1100-1700 (Apr-Dec); closed (Jan-Mar). Admission: Free. Centraltirgus (Central Market) Visitors wanting to leave the 21st century behind them should head for the five old hulking 1930s zeppelin hangers that are now home to Riga’s Central Market. A world away from glossy shopping malls, it is still possible to rub shoulders with Riga's locals, who come to snap up cheap fruit and vegetables. There is also a rabble of stalls outside the main hangers. This is a great place for photography but visitors should watch their camera and other valuables. Negu 7 (next to the central station) Tel: 722 9981. Transport: Bus 13, 21, 22, 31, 31a, 40, 50 or 52; trolley bus 3, 4, 13, 15, 19, 20 or 24; tram 2, 4, 7, 9, 10. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0800-1800, Sun and Mon 0800-1600. Admission: Free. Mencendorfa Nams (Mentzendorff House) Mentzendorff House is an impeccably restored late 17th-century merchant’s house. Ornately decorated, it still boasts the original period furniture and various historical artefacts. Grecinieku 18 Tel: 721 2951. Transport: Bus 21, 22 or 32; trolley bus 3, 13, 15 or 18; tram 3, 6, 7, 8, 10 or 13. Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1000-1700. Admission: Ls0.75; Ls3 (guided tours in English). Latvijas Kara Muzejs (Latvian War Museum) The Latvian War Museum is simultaneously one of the most interesting museums in the city and also the most controversial. Within the redbrick of the 14th-century Powder Tower, there are displays illuminating the various wars that have ravaged the country. There are good sections not only on the War of Liberation (1918-20), when the Latvians fought off the Soviets and the Germans, but also on the Latvian volunteers who served with the German Waffen SS during World War II. There has been much historical debate on their role in atrocities and the surviving veterans who triumphantly parade through Riga every year are often a source of embarrassment to the government. Smilsu 20 Tel: 722 8147. Website: www.karamuzejs.lv Transport: Bus 21, 22 or 32; trolley bus 3, 13, 15 or 18; tram 3, 6, 7, 8, 10 or 13. Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1000-1700. Admission: Ls0.50. Further Distractions Bastekalns Park Two sides of modern Riga are on display in Bastekalns Park. On warm days, the park fills with gossiping workers, 20-somethings stuck to their mobile phones and couples taking lazy strolls along the city canal that runs through the park. In the darker background, however, stands the memorial to the five Latvians who were shot near here, when the Soviets tried to crush the independence movement, on 20 January 1991. The victims included two cameramen and a student. The park has recently been re-landscaped and is now a much more pleasant place in which to idle away a few hours. Basteja bulvaris, Krisjana Valdemara iela, Raina bulvaris and Brivibas iela Transport: Bus 21, 22 or 32; trolley bus 3, 13, 15 or 18; tram 3, 6, 7, 8, 10 or 13. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. Riga Churches Just outside the Old Town walls, the Roman Catholic cathedral of Riga has been reincarnated many times. Jekaba Baznica (St Jacob’s Church) was once a Lutheran parish church, a Jesuit church and even a Swedish garrison church. But now, revelling in layers of history, it is an atmospheric place of Catholic worship. Jezus Baznica (Jesus Church), Riga’s oldest wooden church, has fought an epic battle with fire for centuries and its survival is reason alone to visit. Grebenscikova Baznica (Grebenscikova Church) is another wooden church, this time a gold-domed affair that dates back to the early 19th century. Aleksandra Nevska Baznica (Alexander Nevsky Church), named after the 13th-century Russian prince, who is a folk hero with the Russian population in Riga, is a Russian Orthodox church dating back to the 1820s. St Jacob’s Church Klostera 2 Jesus Church Elijas iela Grebenscikova Church Krasta 73 Alexander Nevsky Church Brivibas 56 Transport: Bus 21, 22 or 32; trolley bus 3, 13, 15 or 18; tram 3, 6, 7, 8, 10 or 13 to city centre; all churches within walking distance of each other. Tours of the City Walking Tours A number of companies offer walking tours of Riga including Impro (tel: 732 3009 or 722 1312; e-mail: imrpo@imrpo.lv; website: www.impro.lv/english) and the one-man operation at Area Tours (tel: 958 0440). Imrpo offers one-and-a-half to three-hour guided walking tours that take in all of the main sights of the Old Town, as well as touch on the newer parts of the city. These cost between Ls34 and Ls50. Departure points vary, although hotel pick up is available. Area Tours offers similar tours with a much more personal and engaging style, with arrangements to meet at hotels possible. However, a self-guided walking tour is probably the best bet. A good place to start a walk is at the Occupation Museum on Kalku iela, before heading into the old town. The majority of the sights in Old Riga are located on or near Skanu iela (the second right turn after the Occupation Museum), including St John’s Church and St Peter’s Church. Almost all of the main sights are located within a compact area in the old town. Bus Tours Latvia Tours (tel: 708 5001; website: www.latviatours.lv) operate the three-hour Riga City Tour. Pick-up by bus is from outside Hotel de Rome, on the edge of the Old Town. This tour costs Ls10 and incorporates the 13th-century churches and the UNESCO-protected Art Nouveau masterpieces in the Old Town. A number of companies offer competing bus tours, including Via Riga Travel Agency (tel: 728 5901; website: www.viariga.lv) and Riga Travel Agency (tel: 722 0368; website: www.rta.lv). Other Tours Liepaja (tel: 760 1686) is a small cruise ship that takes tourists on two-hour trips on the Daugava river for Ls1. Departure is from Krastmala, near the Occupation Museum. On dry land, Zirgu Seta (tel: 923 0049) gives visitors the opportunity to travel around Old Riga in a horse-drawn carriage. Tours, which cost Ls15 per hour, depart from near the Hotel de Rome. Excursions For a Half Day Salaspils: About 18km (11 miles) southeast of Riga, lies Latvia’s Nazi tragedy. Between 1941 and 1944, an estimated 100,000 innocents – including 55,000 Jews from Riga – were murdered at the concentration camp at Salaspils. Today, the camp is preserved as a reminder to those dark days and there is also a museum. The poignant inscription at the entrance reads ‘Behind this gate the earth groans’. Salaspils is easily accessible by electric commuter train and by car and is open daily, 24 hours. Admission is free. Riga Motormuzejus (Riga Motor Museum): This truly bizarre museum (tel: 709 7170), located eight kilometres (five miles) east of Riga’s Old Town, at first glance looks just like a car showroom. Closer scrutiny reveals a collection of over 100 vehicles, which includes the former wheels of such renowned car buffs as Stalin, Khrushchev, Brezhnev and East German dictator Erich Honecker. A nice touch are the wax figures, which create the surreal sight of the late Brezhnev sitting proudly in his Rolls Royce or Stalin in his specially modified armoured car. The museum can be reached by bus 15 or 21, or trolley bus 14 or 18 and is open Monday 1000-1500, Wednesday to Sunday 1000-1800. Admission is Ls1. For a Whole Day Jurmala: Once a favourite holiday destination of Communist Party members, this string of small seaside towns and resorts stretches 30km (19 miles) west along the coast from Riga. The attractions are sweeping sandy beaches, sand dunes, pine trees and old wooden houses. The only drawback is the incessant forest ticks. Jurmala is served by regular trains on the Kemeri–Tukumus train line from Riga’s central station. All trains stop at Majori. The Jurmala Information Centre, Jomas 42 (tel: 772 4276 or 2167) is open daily 0900-2100 and provide further information. Sport Wintersports are very popular in Latvia and the country sent its largest ever contingent to the Salt Lake City Winter Olympics in 2002. The national sport is ice hockey, with big matches gripping the entire nation. Games against Russia are particularly important, as are any international tournaments, since Latvia looks to sport as a way of getting itself known on the international arena. The country is set to host the Ice Hockey World Championships in 2006, with the main arena in Riga. Domestically, the two big teams are Skonto Riga and BC Ventspils. Football increasingly is becoming more popular, especially as the national team is growing in strength and starting to challenge the bigger European nations. The local football side, Skonto Riga E Melngaila 1a (tel/fax: 733 1843), is the best team in the country and regularly wins both the Latvian league and cup competitions. They play at the new purpose-built Skonto Stadium (tel: 721 7999; fax: 728 4390; e-mail: skonto@skonto.lv; website: www.skonto.lv). Skonto Riga may have only formed in 1991 but they are already growing in strength outside Latvia, after some success in UEFA competitions. Tickets are available at the ground the day before or on the morning of the match, at Skonto Stadium. Fitness centres: There are a number of gym-type leisure centres in Riga, where guests can use the facilities for a fee. The excellent fitness centre at the Radisson Hotel, Kugu 24 (tel: 706 1111), includes a pool, sauna and gym which can be used for a daily fee of Ls8. Atlantis, Lacplesa 38 (tel: 728 0870), and City Fitness, Dzirnavu 16 (tel: 724 0888), are two alternative gyms. Golf: There is only one golf course within easy reach of Riga. Golfs Viesturi, 1 Viesturi, Jaunmarupe (tel: 921 9699; fax: 747 0030), is 20km (12 miles) on the road towards Jurmala, although not accessible by public transport. Open to non-members, green fees cost Ls8-13 (nine holes) and Ls12-Ls18 (18 holes). Swimming pools: The swimming pool at Riga Technical University, Kipsalas 5 (tel: 761 6989), is open to the public, charging Ls1.70 before 1700 and Ls2.30 thereafter. The Radisson Hotel, Kugu 24 (tel: 706 1111), also provides a swimming pool that is open to the public. Tennis: The Central Tennis Club has branches at Kronvalda bulvaris 2b (tel: 732 2920), and Baldones 7 (tel: 761 2604). RTU, Kronvalda 3 (tel: 732 5379) hires out courts for Ls5 an hour. Shopping Riga has come a long way since the days of food queues and the Soviet-era craving for all things Western, at any price. The city is not that far behind most Western European cities and there is a wide range of shopping opportunities on offer, from large malls through to local markets. The main shopping heart of town is in and around the Old Town, with many of the larger stores out in the suburbs, along major roads. Audeju is the main shopping street, with a number of designer shops and home to Centrs, Audeju 15, the city’s oldest shopping mall. Other big name shops include Hugo Boss, Terbatas 53, and Benetton, Brivibas 47. A number of Latvian products are of interest to overseas visitors. Antiques are the main one but they require a license from the Inspection Board for History and Culture and the Protection of Monuments, Pils 22 (tel: 721 4100), before any valuables can be exported. On the plus side, there are no customs duties for other EU countries at the Latvian end. The best place to look for antiques is at specialist shops like Antiqua, Kr Valdemara 20; Tango, Dzirnavu 66, and Volmar, Brivibas 39. Among the best souvenir shops are Ezerciems, Kalku 7-9, Mara, Kaleju 9-11 and Souvenir, Aspazijas 30. The main market in town is the Central Market, Negu 7 (see Key Attractions), open Tuesday-Saturday 0800-1800, Monday and Sunday 0800-1600. Standard shopping hours of 0900-1700 is fairly standard, with reduced opening hours on weekends. Shops are no longer closed for lunch, as they were in the soviet times, and most of the supermarkets are open until 2200. Sales tax is currently 18% but 12-15% of this can be claimed back with Tax Free shopping for visitors (tel: 720 7606; website: www.taxfree.lv). Culture ‘Every Latvian is a born poet, everyone makes up verse and songs and can sing,’ Johann Kohl wrote about Latvia, in 1841. He had a point as, despite its years spent suppressed under Soviet rule, Latvian culture is alive and well. The years since 1991 have seen a renaissance of interest in and expression of Latvian cultural identity and this has been mirrored with new developments, such as the reopening of Riga’s Opera House. For most of the 20th century, Latvia was renowned as a centre of ballet excellence and the 1970s saw Riga revered for its avant-garde experimentalist theatre and cinema. Dainas is the traditional Latvian folk song that will occasionally be performed in Riga. The mournful ballad-type songs deal with universal themes of love, marriage and death. There is currently no central bureau or half-price ticket booths, although, for some events, tickets can be bought from tourist information offices. The better hotels are also usually able to organise tickets. Most cultural events sell tickets at the door, although, depending on the event, they can also be secured in advance from the venue The fortnightly Riga In Your Pocket and the monthly City Paper both have listings in English. These are available from newsagents and some hotels. Music: The acoustics at Riga Cathedral Doma laukums 1 (tel: 721 3213), along with its famous organ, make this venue an obvious choice for big recitals, although the Latvian National Symphony Orchestra is housed in the Great Guild Hall, Amatu 6 (tel: 721 3798). Tickets for performances at Riga’s rebuilt Opera House, Aspazijas 3 (tel: 707 3777; fax: 722 8240; e-mail: mail@opera.lv; website: www.opera.lv) are available in advance. The Latvian National Opera are rapidly establishing a name for themselves on the world stage. Theatre: Theatre in Riga dates back as far as the 13th century. During the 1970s, Riga was regarded as a centre of avant-garde exploration and some of this spirit still remains today. The main theatres include the Dailes Theatre, Brivibas 75 (tel: 727 0278), National Theatre (Nacionalais Teatris), Kronvalda 2 (tel: 732 2759), New Riga Theatre (Rigas Jaunais Teatris), Lacplesa 25 (tel: 728 0765; website: www.jrt.lv), and the Russian Drama Theatre (Krievu Dramas Teatris), Kalku 16 (tel: 722 4660). Dance: The quality of the Riga Ballet (tel: 722 5803) is a legacy of the Soviet Union, when Riga’s ballet school was third in importance, after the Kirov and Bolshoi. The company has produced many major stars, including Mihail Baryshnikov, now a famous modern ballet star living in America, as well as Maris Liepa, who went on to star for the Bolshoi Ballet, and his son, Andris Liepa, who found his own slice of fame with the American Ballet Theater in 1989/90. The company performs at various venues around the city. Film: Latvian cinema has grown in strength over the last few decades, with a series of award-wining documentaries. The 1990 European cinema prize, the Felix, was awarded to Jaunie laiki skérsielá or New Times at Crossroad Street (1988), the work of local filmmaker, I Seleckis. The Daile Cinema, Barona 31, and Kino, Lacplesa 52/54, both show films in English with Latvian or Russian subtitles. Palladium, Marijas 21, is the largest cinema in Riga. Cultural events: Riga is a major cultural centre with many events taking place throughout the year. Gadatirgus is an annual arts festival in June, focusing on traditional Latvian arts and craft. The Folklore Festival is held in the first week of June, at the Open Air Ethnographic Museum, with explorations into traditional literature and song. The Midsummer Festival causes a mass exodus from the city, as the locals head to the countryside for some serious partying in June. The Riga Summer Festival, in July, brings an array of chamber and symphony orchestra performances at venues throughout the city. Two massive pan-Baltic festivals that come to Riga every few years are the Baltika International Folk Festival and the Folk Festival, which was last in Riga in 2001. Literary Notes Graham Greene’s Journey Without Maps (1936) delves deep into pre-war Riga. Letters from Latvia (1986), by Lucy Addison, is an illuminating diary of a 79 year old who refused the easy option of leaving Latvia at the outbreak of World War II and had to endure both the German and Soviet occupations as a result. Colin Thubron’s Among the Russians (1983) recounts his memorable drive through the pre-glasnost Soviet Union, including an adventure in Riga. Thubron’s style is at its best as he captures the nervy edge of the time. The Singing Revolution (1992), by Clare Thomson, refers in its title to one of the most remarkable events in modern European history, when citizens of all three Baltic States linked their three capitals together with their hands, in a massive show of solidarity against Soviet rule. The book is an account of her travels in the region in 1989 and 1990. The most comprehensive historical look at the events surrounding the revolutions of 1991 is by Anatol Lieven, in The Baltic Revolution (1994). This weighty tome cuts deeply into Latvian history, culture and modern politics. Other scholarly studies include The Baltic States: The Years of Independence 1917-40 (1995), by Georg von Rauch and The Baltic States: The Years of Dependence 1940-80 (1993), by Romualdas Misiunas and Rein Taagepera.One of the most controversial books around is The Holocaust in Latvia 1941-1944: The Missing Center (1997), by Andrew Ezergailis, which provides an insightful and balanced account of this provocative subject and addresses the ultra-sensitive issue of Latvian participation in the Holocaust. New Latvian Fiction (1998), is a patchy collection of contemporary Latvian writing, which provides an insight into today’s Latvian literary scene. The Dogs of War (2001), by Henning Mankell, is a gripping thriller that explores the dirty underbelly of Riga and its Mafia machinations. Nightlife Teetotallers should think seriously before planning a trip to Riga, as this is a city that likes to drink and it often seems the locals never stop partying. The Old Town is awash with bars – everything from lounge style hangouts with DJs, comfy couches and funky visuals, right through to spit and sawdust drinking dens. One thing to look out for is that some bars are unofficially the sole preserve of Riga’s Russian community and your presence will be, at best, tolerated. Also, some ex-pats report an increase in foreigners being followed and robbed, particularly after leaving bars that are known to be popular with the ex-pat community. Most bars and clubs in Riga are late opening, with many staying open until 0300, seven days a week. The minimum legal drinking age is 18 and the average price is around Ls1 for a beer. Riga in Your Pocket, widely available in Riga, is an invaluable guide to what’s on in the city, boasting extensive bar, restaurant and club reviews. Bars: Paddy Whelans, Grecinieku 4, is a good Irish bar that is filled with ex-pats and locals wanting to meet English speakers, while its newer rival across the road, Dickens, Grecinieku 9/1, is now giving Whelans a run for its money. Nobody Writes to the Colonel, 26/28 Peldu, is a industrial MTV-style bar with frequent live music and club nights, which is a favourite with the local trendy set. A world away is Rigas Balzams, Toma 4, a raucous, unpretentious place that specialises in the lethal local Black Balsam concoction. The Skyline Bar, Elizabetes 55, in the Reval Hotel Latvija, may be a touch lacking in real atmosphere but the views from the 26th floor are superb. Casinos: Riga has a wide range of gambling opportunities but many of the ‘casinos’ turn out to be low-quality dives or informal Mafia-run ventures, so it is best to stick to the established names. The age restriction for gambling is 21 years and passports are required. Smart dress is advisable. The Admiralu Klub, Audeju 12, is geared towards local and foreign businesspeople and is as above board as Riga gets. Similarly, Mirage, 22 Aspazijas bulvaris, is reliable as part of the busy Hotel Riga. The Royal Casino, Elizabetes 55, has blackjack, poker and roulette with a free bar. Tornis, Milsu 75, also has a free bar for players, as well as blackjack, roulette, poker and billiards. Clubs: Over the last few years, Riga’s club scene has gone through the roof and there are now over a dozen regular clubs in the city. Nautilus, King 8, is the most bizarre club in Riga, with a décor that is based on a submarine and bar staff dressed in sailor suits, which make it well worth the visit for the novelty value alone. La Rocca, Brivibas 96, claims to be the biggest club in the Baltics and the dancefloor certainly is huge. The drinks are reasonably priced and there are some very good club nights at weekends. One hot new place is Depo, Valnu 32, an underground hangout with muted lighting, a fashionably grungy clientele and regular guest DJs. Purvs, Matisa 60/62, is a reasonably good gay club with some dubious live shows. Live music: Bites Blues Club, Dzirnavu 34a, is a fair stab at a genuine Blues club. It may not quite be New Orleans but there is regular live music and when no one is on they beam classic jazz artists on to a big screen. Hamlet Club, Jana Seta 5, has suitably arty pretensions with improvised performances, modern jazz and cultural events. Kalku Varti, Kalku 11a, is a new venue that shows a lot of promise, with professional artists and an appreciative crowd who don't tend to spoil performances by singing along – a danger in many other music venues in Riga. City Statistics Location: Daugava River, southeast corner of Gulf of Riga. Country dialling code: 371. Population: 850,000 (city). Ethnic mix: 55% Russian, 40% Latvian, 5% Polish, Belarussian and Ukrainian. Religion: 56% Russian Orthodox, 32% Lutheran, 12% Roman Catholic. Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: - 3°C (26.5°F). Average July temp: 18°C (64.5°F). Annual rainfall: 580mm (22.8 inches). Special Events Gadatirgus, popular annual festival of arts and craft, Jun, various venues Folklore Festival, early Jun, Open-air Ethnographic Museum Latvian Singing and Dancing Festival, over 30,000 singers and 15,000 dancers all dressed in national costume descend upon the city, Jun-Aug, various venues Riga Opera Festival, Jun-Aug, Opera House Ligo Diena (Grass Day), Jani grasses are strewn about the home in preparation for the Jani, late Jun, throughout Riga Jani (Midsummer Festival), traditional Pagan celebration of summer solstice, late Jun, throughout Riga Riga Summer Festival, festival of chamber and symphony music, Jul, various venues International Folk Dance Festival, Jul, various venues Riga Christmas Festival, mid-late Dec, Riga Exhibition Centre New Year in Riga, street party, 31 Dec, Old Town’s main squares Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: Ls0.35 33cl bottle of beer: Ls0.45 Financial Times newspaper: Ls2 36-exposure colour film: Ls4 City-centre bus ticket: Ls0.20 Adult football ticket: Ls7 Three-course meal with wine/beer: Ls11 1 Latvian Lats (Ls1) = £1.09; US$1.73; C$2.59; A$2.85; €1.61 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.