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_City Overview Singapore, the diamond-shaped island off the southern tip of Malaysia, is an unlikely success story. Once a simple fishing village, it was founded in 1819 by Sir Stamford Raffles – an official of the British East India Company – who decided it was the perfect location as a trading station. Since then it has thrived and became known as the Lion City. Singapore City is by far the largest and most significant island alongside the many smaller ones that make up Singapore state. Here, especially at the mouth of the Singapore River, Asian tradition meets modern technology – gleaming skyscrapers tower over traditional architecture, while squat Chinese and Hindu temples stud the city. A curious blend of ancient and modern, the city is home to an ethnic mix of Chinese, Malaysians, Indians, as well as ex-pats from all over the world, in a predominantly English-speaking society. These different races live harmoniously thanks to religious tolerance, increased prosperity, stringent no-nonsense laws and a constant balmy equatorial heat. Since the island became a Republic in 1965, Lee Kuan Yew, former Prime Minister and now Senior Minister, has pursued a vigorous free trade policy that has seen an unprecedented rise in the standard of living (most city dwellers own their own homes) and exponential economic growth. The Asian crisis of 1997 caused mayhem elsewhere, but here it was little more than a slightly worrying blip, although unemployment did rise from a steady 3.2% to 6%. Even after the September 11 terrorist attacks, which caused a downturn in tourism and many other industries, Singapore is making a steady recovery. To the visitor stepping into Singapore’s world-beating Changi Airport, there is little indication of anything other than impressive efficiency. What can be dangerously beguiling is the safety and cleanliness of this city; dangerous because it has been achieved and maintained at the expense of personal freedom. Canings, corrective work orders and harsh financial penalties can accompany breaking the law. There are the infamous on-the-spot fines for jay-walking or dropping a cigarette, but persistent litterers will find themselves suffering what in Singapore is the huge ignominy of picking up litter themselves, while more serious crimes, such as drug trafficking, are punished by the death penalty. Yet, in the financial and business districts, a new breed of well-heeled ex-pat seems to enjoy a good quality of life. In Singapore, oiling the wheels of success and becoming the best – an economic miracle to show the rest of the world the way – seems paramount. The prestigious Forbes Magazine enticed CEOs from around the globe to Singapore for a major business conference in September 2001 – an impressive coup for Singapore’s government as all previous conferences have been held in America; and now Singapore has become a fast-growing market for incentive travel, with more conventions, conferences and exhibitions than ever before. All of this business thrives amid a constant flow of festivals and events in the ethnic quarters of Chinatown, Little India and Geylang Serai, which mark the many religious and cultural occasions throughout the calendar. Singaporeans still rely on feng shui consultants, astrologers and fortune-tellers for advice when moving home, getting married or changing jobs. There is a budding arts community, which provides something of an outlet for feelings long denied in a series of annual showcases. However, these do veer more towards the respectable face of art, often created and marketed by the Singapore Tourism Board, with little wild self-expression to rock the establishment. More traditionally, Raffles Hotel and a rank of good museums furnish insights into the past. But modern consumer culture takes over most aspects of life: the Great Singapore Sale dominates the early summer in the city centre – and increasingly in the suburbs. Most visitors to Singapore at some stage will indulge in the competitive prices and great selection, especially in electronics equipment. And everybody comes to eat: there are food outlets at every step, from traditional hawker centres to modern food courts, Asian specialities to international haute cuisine – reflecting the cuisines of the different ethnic communities that Singapore has long been a home to. Getting There By Air Singapore Changi Airport (SIN) Tel: 6542 1122 or 6541 2222. Fax: 6542 1231. Website: www.changi.airport.com.sg Changi is located 20km (12.4 miles) from Singapore centre. It consistently tops international polls as the world’s best airport and is currently the 24th busiest. More than 28 million passengers passed through in 2001. A total of 63 airlines operate out of Changi, with 3200 flights weekly to 145 cities in 50 countries worldwide, making it the airport with the most air links in the Asia Pacific region. To cater for growth in demand, an extension to Terminal 1 was completed in 2000 and the building of Terminal 3 is underway. Major airlines: Singapore Airlines (tel: 6223 8888, reservations or 6030, tickets; fax: 6786 6947; website: www.singaporeair.com) is the national airline, with direct connections to all the major cities in Asia and 116 destinations in 42 countries. Its subsidiary SilkAir covers 19 destinations in South East Asia, plus Trivandrum in India. Other major airlines include Aeroflot, Air China, Air France, Air India, Air Madagascar, Air Mauritius, Air New Zealand, All Nippon Alitalia, American Airlines, Biman Bangladesh, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, China Airlines, Continental Airlines, Egypt Air, Emirates, Garuda, Gulf Air, Indian Airlines, Japan Airlines, KLM, Korean Air, Lufthansa, Malaysia Airlines, Pakistan International Airlines, Philippine Airlines, Qantas Airways, Scandinavian Airlines, Sri Lankan Airlines, Swissair, Thai Airways, Turkish Airlines and United Airlines. Passengers may check in up to 48 hours before their flight, at the Singapore Airlines office in the Paragon Shopping Centre, Orchard Road. Approximate flight times to Singapore: From London is 13 hours; from New York is 20 hours 35 minutes; from Los Angeles is 18 hours; from Toronto is 20 hours and from Sydney is 8 hours. Airport facilities: While Changi’s legendary efficiency means travellers need spend the minimum amount of time in the airport, the facilities on offer mean that days could happily be spent there. These include showers, gym and sauna, fitness centres, putting green, rooftop pool and Jacuzzi, hairdresser, laundry service, karaoke lounge, Science Discovery Centre, mini supermarket, children’s play area, nursery, smoking room, medical centre and prayer room. To get back to nature, even in an airport, there are also cactus, bamboo and orchid gardens and Koi pond. There are the usual banks, bureaux de change, ATMs, postal and telecommunications offices, shops, restaurants, car hire (AB Budget Car Rental, Sintat Rent-Acar and Hertz), hotel reservation counters, tourist information and baggage storage facilities. Transit and transfer passengers can also take advantage of free two-hour guided coach tours of Singapore. Business facilities: The comprehensive range of services includes transit hotels and business-class lounges. There are business centres located in Terminal 1 (tel: 6542 5538; fax: 6542 1231) and Terminal 2 (tel: 6542 8122) transit hotels. Facilities include workstations with Internet connection, fax and photocopiers. The business centres are open 0800-2300 and there is a 24-hour Internet centre. Arrival/departure tax: A S$15 Passenger Service Charge is incorporated in the price of the ticket. Transport to the city: The MRT now has a station at the airport, which is a quick and cheap option for getting anywhere in Singapore. Trains run 0530-2315, approximately every ten minutes. Tickets to the city centre cost S$1.60 (journey time – 30 minutes). Trans Island Bus Service (TIBS) (tel: 6482 3888; website: www.tibs.com.sg) operates regular buses into the city. Public bus stations are located in Terminal 1 at Basement 2 and in Terminal 2 at basement level. Public buses cost S$1.50 (exact fare only) and depart every 6-12 minutes 0600-2400. Bus number 36 goes along Orchard Road. The airport is about 20 minutes from Singapore centre by taxi. Taxi fares are about S$20 (plus a standard S$3 airport surcharge, as well as any other surcharges – see Taxis in Getting Around). Limousine taxi service counters are located at the arrival hall on Level 1 of both terminals. They charge a flat rate of S$39 and operate 0600-0200 daily. The six-seater MaxiCab, the airport shuttle service, run by CityCab (tel: 6542 8297), costs S$7 and stops at almost every major hotel in the city centre. It leaves from Terminal 2 every 30 minutes 0600-1800 and every 15 minutes 1800-2400. Getting There By Water Singapore is the world’s busiest port in terms of shipping tonnage and is also considered the cruise hub of the Asia Pacific. At any one time, there are more than 800 ships in port. Visitors arrive at one of the three terminals (International, Regional or Domestic) of the Singapore Cruise Centre (tel: 6321 2202; fax: 6275 1683; website: www.singaporecruise.com) or at the Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal (tel: 6542 9910; fax: 6540 8007; website: www.sir.gov.sg) on the East Coast. The Singapore Cruise Centre, situated at the seafront side of the World Trade Centre on Telok Blangah Road, was opened in 1992 to promote Singapore as the cruise gateway to the Asia Pacific. The Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal was opened in 1995 to cater for increasing regional traffic and is for passengers heading for the Indonesian Riau Islands and Malaysian destinations. Facilities for international cruise ships at SCC include a Chinese medical hall, post office, electronic lockers, limousine taxis, duty free goods and medical and dental clinics. At TMFT, there is a food hall, travel and resort agencies, duty-free shops and bureau de change. Ferry services: There are regular ferries between Tanah Merah and the Indonesian islands of Batam and Bintan, as well as Sebana and Tioman on the Malaysian coast. Ferries from the Singapore Cruise Centre go to Kukup in Malaysia, as well as Batam and Bintan. Operators include Auto Batam (tel: 6271 4866; fax: 6273 3573); Dino Shipping (tel: 6270 2228; fax: 6270 1113); Bintan Resort Ferries (tel: 6542 4369; fax: 6546 7446); Widi Express Ferries PTE Ltd (tel: 6275 2220; fax: 6275 2219). Transport to the city: The Singapore Cruise Centre is a ten-minute taxi ride from the city centre. Taxis leave from the World Trade Centre or Cable Car Towers in Maritime Square. Tanah Merah is served by regular public buses, operated by Singapore Bus Service (SBS) (tel: 6383 7229), to Tanah Merah MRT station, as well as a peak-hour Bus-Plus service direct to the city centre. There is a Taxi Order Terminal outside the ferry terminal and taxis ordered charge an S$8 premium. Getting There By Road The road system in Singapore is clear, easy and efficient, but can get very congested at peak times, and especially on weekends and holidays when Singaporeans crowd the causeway to Johor Bahru in Malaysia. Driving is on the left and the speed limit is 50kph (31mph) in residential areas and 80kph (50mph) on expressways – and visitors should note that there are very high punishments for speeding. For tourists, a valid driving licence from the country of residence is required for driving in Singapore. An International Driving Permit is recommended, especially if the driving licence is not in English, as it can help expedite proceedings where police are involved. The Automobile Association of Singapore has a helpline (tel: 6831 2195) for information on IDPs, but drivers can expect to pay a S$20 processing fee for an IDP. Foreign residents, however, must convert their national licence (or IDP) into a local licence. The Traffic Police (tel: 6547 1818) should be contacted for converting licences, as well as for reporting all traffic accidents and information on road conditions. Minimum third-party insurance is required for driving in Singapore, which can be extended to cover Malaysia. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. Further information can be obtained from the Automobile Association of Singapore (tel: 6737 2444; fax: 6733 5094; e-mail: aasmail@aas.com.sg; website: www.aas.com.sg). Emergency breakdown services: AAS 6748 9911 Routes to the city: The main route into Singapore is the kilometre-long causeway, linking the northern district of Woodlands with Malaysia’s Johor Bahru. At weekends, the volume of traffic multiplies and this causeway is usually very busy. The ‘Second Link’, officially the Malaysia-Singapore Second Crossing, was built to alleviate the traffic and should be faster at busy periods. This second bridge is located on the western side of Singapore and it links the Tuas checkpoint in Singapore with Tanjung Kupang in Malaysia. The highway then runs up the western part of the Malay peninsular. The East Coast Parkway (ECP) runs from the airport into the city along the coast; Changi Road and Pan-Island Expressway (PIE) both provide alternative routes. Driving times to Singapore: From Johor Bahru – between 20 minutes and 3 hours, depending on traffic; Kuala Lumpur – 3 hours; Malacca – 3 hours 30 minutes. Coach services: Operators include Regent Star Travel, Lavender MRT station (tel: 6292 9009), Hasry (tel: 6294 9306) and Malacca-Singapore Express (tel: 6293 5915), which are both located at the bus terminal on the corner of Lavender Street and Kallang Bahru. Coach services go to a number of Malaysian destinations, including Kuala Lumpur and Penang, and usually depart every morning and evening. Getting There By Rail Malayan Railway (tel: 6222 5165) operates services from Singapore Railway Station, on Keppel Road, Tanjong Pagar, just south of the Central Business District. The facilities are basic but there is a newspaper/food kiosk. Rail services: Trains depart daily for destinations in Malaysia, including Kuala Lumpur, Johor Bahru and Butterworth. Air-conditioned express trains to Kuala Lumpur leave three times a day with journeys taking between five and six hours. The journey to Johor Bahru takes around 30 minutes with four daily departures. There are five normal daily services to Kuala Lumpur. Keppel Road is also the departure point for the Eastern & Orient Express (tel: 6392 3500) to Kuala Lumpur, Kwai, Penang and Bangkok. Transport to the city: The railway station is not served by the MRT, although Tanjong Pagar MRT is a ten-minute walk away. Buses can be infrequent so the best way into the city is to queue for a taxi or to telephone one (see Getting Around). Getting Around Public Transport Public transport in Singapore is efficient, ultra-modern, clean, cheap and mostly air conditioned. TransitLink Hotline (tel: 6767 4333) is a new one-stop number set up by all the major transport providers to help co-ordinate people’s transport needs. The train system is operated by Singapore Mass Rapid Transit (tel: 6336 8900; fax: 6334 8051; website: www.smrt.com.sg). The MRT system extends north–south and east–west with trains every three to six minutes 0530-2430 daily. Fares range from S$0.80 to S$1.80. MRT also operate the Light Rapid Transit System (tel: 6893 6455/6; fax: 6762 6732; website: www.slrt.com.sg). There are currently 14 LRT stations – the system runs from Bukit Panjang New Town to Choa Chu Kang in the suburbs. Each trip costs S$0.70-0.90. Trains run every three to five minutes. The bus system is operated by the Singapore Bus Service (SBS; tel: 6383 7229; fax: 6282 5204; e-mail: sbscrc@sbs.com.sg; website: www.sbstransit.com.sg) and Trans Island Bus Service (TIBS; tel: 6482 3888; fax: 6482 3842; e-mail: trans-island@tibs.com.sg; website: www.tibs.com.sg). SBS buses run 0600-2400 with fares costing S$0.60-1.30 for non-air-conditioned buses and S$0.70-1.60 for air-conditioned buses. TIBS also runs a Bus-Plus (tel: 6481 0166; fax: 6484 0129) service, which operates during peak hours to shuttle passengers between residential areas and MRT stations or the Central Business District. Fares are S$3.20-3.70. Night buses run after these have finished, until around 0400, and cost S$3. Another available option is the Singapore Trolley (tel: 6339 6833), a double decker sightseeing bus (see Bus Tours in Tours of the City). Electronic passes, known as Farecards, are available from MRT stations (covering both the MRT and buses) for a deposit of S$2 with an initial value of S$10. These can be topped up at TransitLink machines in every station – and make the fares slightly cheaper. For S$10, a Tourist Day Ticket entitles passengers to up to 12 rides a day on the MRT and all bus services. These are available at MRT stations and bus interchanges. Taxis There are more than 18,000 cheap, metered, safe and air-conditioned taxis in Singapore. However, their convenience and reasonable price means that they can be difficult to find during peak hours, especially in the Central Business District (CBD) – and during a downpour. Taxis can hailed 24 hours a day on the street, as well as at well-marked stands outside most shopping centres and hotels. Fares vary between companies, however, they usually start at S$2.40 for the first kilometre and rise in increments of S$0.10. They are subject to a number of surcharges – most commonly advance booking fees. Again, different companies vary slightly, but example surcharges are S$1 during peak hours or S$1 for a pick-up in the CBD. There is a a 50% surcharge daily 0000-0600, as well as a S$5 surcharge 1700-2400 Friday, Saturday or Sunday. There may also be surcharges for driving along certain highways. Despite (or perhaps because of!) all the surcharges, it is not customary to tip taxi drivers. Visitors should also note that drivers changing shifts will only take passengers heading in their direction – the red board on the dashboard or windscreen indicates the destination. Although there is no longer a bell that rings if the taxi breaks the speed limit, most drivers adhere strictly to the 80kph (50mph). Taxi firms include CityCab (tel: 6553 3880), Comfort (tel: 6552 1111) and TIBS Taxis (tel: 6555 8888; website: www.tibs.com.sg). Limousines More a taxi with style than a limo, TIBS Taxis (tel: 6555 8888; website: www.tibs.com.sg) offers Mercedes or London Taxis, which can be booked for any journey. For example, Airport Transport Service costs S$39. Driving in the City Singapore’s highways are all designated by acronyms – AYE, ECP, CTE, AMK, PIE, ORR, and CBD. Various tolls are levied 0730-0930 to relieve congestion on expressways and busy roads using the Electronic Road Pricing Scheme (ERP), which automatically deducts tolls from a rechargeable card inside the car – the In-Vehicle Unit or IU. Vehicles need to be fitted with this card, which is available for S$5 daily, minimum of two days (plus a S$120 deposit) from petrol stations and other outlets. Permanent installations cost S$120.The highways are easy to negotiate and traffic generally moves smoothly thanks to the ERP. Wearing seat belts in the front and back is mandatory and it is illegal to use a mobile phone while driving. Offences are treated seriously, with tough fines and even jail sentences. Singaporean drivers have a habit of lane drifting but otherwise traffic flows with very few abuses of etiquette. To help traffic flow in the Central Business District, all vehicles entering between 0730-1900 are also expected to pay a toll, which varies depending on the time. Parking is cheap and easily available all over the city, especially in hotel basement car parks. In areas where parking coupons are used, drivers pay S$0.45 per half-hour outside the Central Business District and S$0.90 inside. Car Hire A valid national driving licence is required, although an International Driving Permit (IDP) is preferred. Minimum third-party insurance is compulsory and can be extended to cover Malaysia. The minimum age limit for hiring a car is 25 years. Major providers include Avis (tel: 6737 1668; fax: 6235 4958; website: www.avis.com) and Hertz (tel: (800) 6734 4646; fax: 6733 0466; e-mail: reservation.hertz@simedarby.com.sg; website: www.hertz.com). Official rates start at S$150 per day, with an extra S$50 per hour for a driver. However, prices vary hugely depending on the time of year, while special offers, corporate accounts, AA membership, even certain credit cards can often bring the official price down considerably. Bicycle Hire Cycling in Singapore tends to be restricted to public parks with East Coast Park a popular venue for cyclists and rollerbladers. Bicycle hire is available at several outlets in the park, from about S$1.50 per hour. Bicycles can also be hired at Sentosa, Pasir Ris and Bishan parks. The island of Pulau Ubin (see Excursions) has mountain bike facilities, with many hire shops near the jetty. Business Business Profile An obsession with productivity, the high standard of education of its workforce and its location at the heart of ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) has made Singapore the most durable economy in the world. In leading surveys during 2002, Singapore has overtaken Hong Kong as the best business centre in Asia. In 2001, it was ranked first in Asia for growth competitiveness by the World Economic Forum, while readers of Business Traveller Asian Pacific placed Singapore ahead of Melbourne and Sydney. It gained a further seal of approval from the presitigous Forbes Magazine, which held the Forbes Global CEO Conference in the city in September 2001. Although productivity growth was lower in the 1990s than in the 1980s, thanks to the Asian financial crisis of 1997, Singapore’s slowdown was far less dramatic than its neighbours. Latest official statistics show that of a workforce of around 2.1 million, 3.8% are unemployed, down from 6% in 2000, which reflects a sound recovery after the previous year’s global downturn in technology. Of this workforce, 26% are employed in manufacturing; 23% in business services; 20% in education, health and social services; 16% in retail trade; 11% in transport and communications; 8% in financial services and 5% in hotels and restaurants. Most economic sectors, especially tourism, suffered the effects of September 11 terrorist attacks, although a slow recovery is in evidence. The Singapore Tourism Board have been strategic in their marketing and pushed their efforts into attracting tourists from China and Australia, rather than nervous USA and Japan. They have also developed Singapore into Asia’s top convention city and the fifth best in the world. In the past few years, the city has seen a sharp rise in visitors coming for incentive programmes, meetings, conventions, corporate incentive trips and exhibitions. The business district lies towards the island’s east and southernmost tip and includes Orchard Road, Brah Basah Road and Raffles Boulevard, near which are the Singapore International Convention and Exhibition Centre, Pan Pacific and Suntec City. Most major international banks are here as well as international organisations like Cable &Wireless, Mitsubishi, Siemens and Unilever. Business Etiquette English is the official language of business in Singapore and business is conducted very much on a Western model. However, Asian – and especially Chinese – business ethics often prevail. Most offices are designed (interior and exterior) in consultation with a feng shui expert, in order to create the most auspicious environment for generating wealth and harmony, and most feature a fish pond or fountain to ensure that money flows in the right direction. Business cards are exchanged on every social and business occasion; and it is common courtesy to give or receive them with two hands (as with any piece of paper, including money). Corporate entertaining is high on the agenda and long lunches are often taken, with lavish buffets a popular option. Smokin is illegal in many places and is not always socially acceptable, so visitors should check before lighting up. There are 12 public holidays a year, the most significant being Chinese New Year, usually in February. This is the only occasion when almost everything shuts down – locals spend time visiting their families and ex-pats leave for a long weekend away. During other public holidays, like Christmas Day, banks and offices close but shops stay open. Business dress is fairly formal, however, men’s suits may veer towards lighter shades in Singapore’s tropical climate and, except for formal meetings, a jacket is usually dispensed with. Women wear skirt or trouser suits, while their Malay colleagues wear their national dress for formal functions. Some organisations have adopted casual Fridays, although only those departments with no client contact tend to take advantage of this. Locals and ex-pats alike work long hours. The official working day is 0900-1800 but much longer hours are quite common. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Despite a lack of natural resources, or perhaps because of it, Singapore has capitalised on the energy, enterprise and skills of its inhabitants to create something approaching a tourist mecca. With some hearty marketing by the Singapore Tourism Board, more and more tourists are visiting – around 600,000 every month. A predictable dip followed the terrorist attacks of 11 September 2001 – although the year-ending figures of 7.5 million was still the second highest – but the first few months of 2002 already showed a recovery. Although most tourists only stop over for a couple of days, in transit to somewhere else, many are beginning to stay longer and Singapore has much to merit a longer visit. This is a city where the first impression is that of man’s achievements; the is efficient and aesthetically pleasing Changi Airport is repeatedly voted the world’s best. But here, world firsts are becoming commonplace – Suntec City boasts the biggest man-made fountain; the Night Safari is the first night zoo, and so on. Heat and humidity not withstanding, the most efficient way to get to know local culture is on foot, especially around Chinatown, Little India and Geylang Serai in the heart of the city. Even in just these areas, it is easy to see how Singapore’s successful economy is based upon ancient traditions, rituals and beliefs. It is usually this combination that entices people but those wanting pure consumerism and entirely modern architecture, Orchard Road should appeal. But it is not all urban landscape – there is an importance placed on the natural environment. Areas of natural beauty, albeit with a little help from humans, have been developed heartily. These include Sungei Buloh Nature Park, Singapore Zoological Gardens, the popular Night Safari and Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. For history lovers and culture vultures, there is also an impressive selection of museums, exhibitions and architectural heritage. Tourist Information Singapore Tourism Board Tourism Court, 1 Orchard Spring Lane Tel: 6736 6622 or (1-800) 736 2000. Fax: 6736 9423. E-mail: stb_sog@stb.gov.sg Website: www.stb.com.sg or www.visitsingapore.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1700, Sat 0830-1300. There are also STB Visitor Centres at Suntec City Mall, 3 Temasek Boulevard; 1st Floor, Liang Court Shopping Centre, 177 River Valley Road; Prinsep Place, 44 Prinsep Street; and Chijmes, 30 Victoria Street. Passes Admission ticket packages are available for Singapore Zoological Gardens, Night Safari and Jurong BirdPark. Tickets are valid for six months from date of purchase and cost from S$20 for adults, with rates varying for different combinations of two or three attractions. Key Attractions Raffles Hotel Built in 1887 and declared a National Monument exactly 100 years later, Raffles Hotel is one of the world’s last remaining Victorian grand hotels of the East. Somerset Maugham, Rudyard Kipling, Joseph Conrad and Charlie Chaplin made it a favourite retreat, and its 160-million-Singapore-Dollar facelift in 1991, based on its heyday in 1915, has ensured the hotel retains the unique charm of an age and sensibility now just a memory. Tourists flock for afternoon tea in the Tiffin Room and a Singapore Sling in the Long Bar. But a visit to Raffles does not have to be a cliché: the Tiffin Room’s Saturday night buffet is one of the best meals in town, while the cool high ceilings of Bar & Billiard, with its snooker tables at the far end, offer a very pleasant spot for a gin and tonic. The new arcade houses 70 regional and speciality shops, as well as restaurants and the Victorian-style playhouse, Jubilee Hall. One must-see is the museum on the upper floor, which provides a fascinating insight into more than 100 years of history. Vignettes and pictures of Charlie Chaplin and his brother, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, and Noel Coward’s diary, which recounts the death of his travelling companion (glossed over elsewhere in the display), are utterly compelling. Beach Road Tel: (65) 337 1886. Fax: (65) 339 7650. E-mail: raffles@raffles.com Website: www.raffles.com Transport: MRT City Hall Station (C2), then short walk to Beach Road. Chinatown Singapore’s Chinatown evolved in about 1821 when the first Chinese junk arrived from Xiamen, Fujian province. Its four main districts – Kreta Ayer, Telok Ayer, Tanjong Pagar and Bukit Pasoh – each have a distinctive flavour of their own. The Chinese heart, in the Trengganu/Smith Street area, is marked by the Fuk Tak Chi and Thian Hock Keng temples. Smith Street is undergoing a transformation into a fully fledged food street due for completion in August 2001. Housewives haggle for the best produce making this a lively and noisy ethnic quarter at times. But peace and quiet is available in the temples and at Yixing Xuan’s Teahouse where the ancient, ritualistic art of making tea as a metaphor for life goes on. A complex array of Chinese medicines are on hand with expert advice for those who find the various foodstuffs on offer overly tempting. A number of Chinatown’s landmarks, however, are not Chinese, most notably the Nagore Durga Shrine and the Al Abrar Mosque on Telok Ayer Street, and the Jamae Mosque and Sri Mariamman Temple on South Bridge Road. Transport: MRT Outram (W2). Night Safari Located next to the Singapore Zoological Gardens, the Night Safari is billed as the world’s first and only night zoo. There are more than 1200 animals, covering 110 exotic species in eight zones that recreate geographic regions, including the South East Asian rainforest, African savannah, Nepalese river valley, South American pampas and Burmese jungle. A 45-minute tram ride offers a leisurely alternative to the three Walking Trails. The twice-nightly Creatures of the Night show sees employees grappling with some of the less dangerous species. Mandai Lake Road Tel: (65) 269 3411. Fax: (65) 367 2974. E-mail: singzoo@pacific.net.sg Website: www.zoo.com.sg/safari/index.htm Transport: SBS bus 138 from Ang Mo Kio MRT (N9) or TIBS bus 927 from Choa Chu Kang MRT (N21). Opening hours: Daily 1930-2400. Admission: S$15.45; tram rides S$3; concessions available. Sentosa Island Said to be in direct contrast to the freneticism of Singapore, Sentosa Island is a purpose-built island theme park and offers beaches, history, golf, gastronomy and a host of themed attractions, including VolcanoLand, the Asian Village, the water rides of Fantasy Island, and Underwater World, one of Asia’s largest tropical fish oceanariums. The more earnest visitor can visit Images of Singapore, which depicts the island’s early life, local festivals and customs and the World War II surrender to the Japanese at Fort Silosa, which shows the bunkers and underground passages used in the island’s defence. Sentosa Island Tel: (65) 275 0388. Fax: (65) 275 0161. E-mail: sales@sentosa.com.sg Website: www.sentosa.com.sg Transport: Orchard bus E from Orchard Road; Sentosa bus A and C from World Trade Centre and Tiong Bahru MRT (W3); cable car from Mount Faber. Opening hours: Most attractions open at 0900 and close between 1900 and 2200. Admission: S$5 before 1830 and S$3 after 1830; additional charges apply for individual attractions (concessions available). Asian Civilisations Museum Housed in a restored neo-classical building dating back to 1910, the museum focuses on the world of Chinese beliefs, symbolism, connoisseurship and the Chinese scholar tradition, with a collection of Buddhist artefacts, imperial porcelain and seventeenth-century Ming-style furniture. It is seen as an important showcase for the culture’s development. There are free guided tours. 39 Armenian Street Tel: (65) 332 3015. Fax: (65) 332 7993. E-mail: nhb_acm@nhb.gov.sg Website: www.museum.org.sg Transport: MRT City Hall (C2), then short walk to Armenian Street. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1800 (until 2100 Fri). Admission: S$3 (concessions available). Supreme Court and City Hall Dating from 1939, the Supreme Court is one of the last colonial constructions. Its Corinthian columns surround stately interiors featuring murals by Italian artist Cavaliere Rodolfo Nolli. Next door is City Hall, another giant structure, built in 1929, and the site of the Japanese surrender to Lord Mountbatten in 1945. Visitors may tour the premises with the useful Guide to the Supreme Court and attend most open court hearings. Visitors who want to learn more about the local judiciary can visit the Multimedia Gallery, as well as the Supreme Court Open House-cum-Exhibition. St Andrew’s Road Tel: (65) 332 4270. Fax: (65) 337 9450. E-mail: supcourt_qsm@supcourt.gov.sg Website: www.supcourt.gov.sg Transport: MRT City Hall (C2); then short walk along St Andrew’s Road towards the Padang. Opening hours: 0830-1700 Mon-Fri, 0830-1300 Sat. Admission: Free. Jurong BirdPark The largest bird park in all of South East Asia, Jurong BirdPark is a refuge for more than 8000 birds of 600 different species from all over the world. Highlights include Waterfall Aviary, at 30m (98ft) the world’s highest manmade waterfall, and the South East Asian Bird Aviary, where a thunderstorm is simulated every day at noon. The new Lodge on Flamingo Lake promises food not just fit for birds. Bird shows feature flamingos, macaws, hornbills and cockatoos and one of the biggest attractions is the Penguin Parade, housing more than 200 penguins of five species. An air-conditioned monorail covers the entire park. 2 Jurong Hill Tel: (65) 265 0022. Fax: (65) 261 1869. E-mail: birdpark@singnet.com.sg Website: www.birdpark.com.sg Transport: MRT Boon Lay Station (W12), then SBS bus 194 or 251. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1800. Admission: S$12; monorail S$3; concessions available. Haw Par Villa Tiger Balm Gardens This perennial favourite with Singapore’s Chinese community has become somewhat delapidated in recent years and is in process of a facelift. Although off the beaten track, it holds a special place in Singapore’s heart as it describes the culture’s history and mythology – often in graphic and grisly form – and links the community directly to its Confucianist origins. Opened in 1937, by brothers Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par, who made a mint from the success of Tiger Balm, the pungent ointment, this is essentially an ‘olde worlde’ theme park. It is also an eye-opening insight into what makes this incredible island tick. The Ten Courts of Hell with its nightmarish depictions of sinners suffering in the afterworld shows what the Chinese believe happens when they don’t toe the line. 262 Pasir Panjang Road Tel: (65) 774 0300. Fax: (65) 779 7601. E-mail: orientmgt@pacific.net.sg Transport: MRT Buona Vista (W7); SBS bus 10, 30, 188 from World Trade Centre, 143 from Orchard Road or 51 from Chinatown. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Admission: S$5. Singapore Art Museum This was once the St Joseph’s Institution, the island’s first all boys school, built by French Catholic monks. Now home to the Singapore Art Museum, the building is one of the city’s most striking structures. Exhibits reflect both modern and traditional Asian thought and the E-mage Gallery pioneers the confluence of art and technology. The museum has 13 galleries showcasing an impressive collection of contemporary local and South East Asian art. 71 Bras Basah Road Tel: (65) 332 3222. Fax: (65) 334 7919. Website: www.museum.org.sg Transport: MRT Dhoby Ghaut (N1) or City Hall Station (C2), then short walk towards Bras Basah Road. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1800 (until 2100 on Fri). Admission: S$3 (concessions available); free after 1800 on Fri. Changi Prison Chapel & Museum Singapore has not always been smiling faces and success. During World War II, three years of conflict with the Japanese before capitulation saw 50,000 civilians and soldiers imprisoned in Changi. The new home of the Changi Prison Chapel and Museum was recently completed and is four times larger than the original. The chapel is a replica of many chapels built during the conflict. The museum records the daily life of prisoners in photographs, paintings and sketches. A new addition is a series of wall paintings by British POW Stanley Warren. It also features a pair of rail spikes from the infamous Burma railroad. Currently, services are conducted by the Changi Christian Fellowship every Sunday at 1730. Visitors are welcome. Upper Changi Road North Tel: (65) 214 2451. Fax: (65) 214 1179. E-mail: changi_museum@pacific.net.sg Transport: MRT (E9) Tanah Merah, then SBS bus 2. Opening hours: 1000-1700 Mon-Sat. Admission: Free. Singapore Botanic Gardens Singapore Botanic Gardens offer a reminder of a real land that time forgot: the gardens epitomise the tropical island’s luxuriant parks with a combination of primary jungle and elegantly laid out flowerbeds and shrubs. Spread over 52 hectares (128 acres), the gardens hold more than half a million species of plant life. The National Orchid Garden has the world’s largest orchid display featuring over 20,000 orchids. Cluny Road Tel: (65) 471 9943. Fax: (65) 475 4295. Website: www.nparks.gov.sg/sbg Transport: MRT to Orchard (N3) and then SBS bus 7, 105, 106, 123 or 174 from Orchard Boulevard. Opening hours: Daily 0500-2400. Admission: Free; S$2 (National Orchid Garden). Further Distractions Bukit Timah Nature Reserve This 164-hectare (405-acre) reserve, 12km (7.5 miles) from the city centre, is one of only two world nature reserves within city boundaries (the other is in Rio de Janeiro). The reserve contains more species of trees than the entire North American continent – and is one of the few attractions in Singapore which is not man-made. Many species of larger animals were rendered extinct but today it is possible to glimpse a flying lemur, long-tailed macaque monkey or anteater. The reserve has the island’s most challenging walking or cycling trails but the paths are well-marked as they meander through the jungle, in the company of exotic birds, butterflies, monkeys and squirrels. Bukit Timah Hill, at 164m (538ft), is Singapore’s highest point. Bicycle hire is available from Bike and Hike, 382 Upper Bukit Timah Road (tel: 6763 8382) for S$6 per hour. 177 Hindhede Drive Tel: 6468 5736 or (1-800) 468 5736. Website: www.nparks.gov.sg Transport: TIBS bus 171 from Orchard MRT or Newton. Opening hours: Daily 0700-1900. Admission: Free. Chinese and Japanese Gardens Situated at the very west end of the MRT line and lying side by side, these gardens reflect very contrasting landscapes. The 13-hectare (32.5-acre) Chinese Garden portrays the Imperial Sung Dynasty style, echoing the grandeur of the Beijing Summer Palace with its bridges, pagodas and tea gallery. It also has the largest Suzhou-style bonsai garden outside China, with over 1000 plants. The Japanese Garden, by contrast, emphasises Zen simplicity with stone lanterns, summer houses and Zen rock gardens. Classical Japanese motifs help create a soothing atmosphere. A garden Weekend Market every fortnight sells crafts and second-hand goods. 1 Chinese Garden Tel: 6264 3455. Fax: 6265 8133. E-mail: sligarden@pacific.net.sg Transport: MRT Chinese Garden. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Admission: Free; S$5 (Bonsai Garden). Tours of the City The Singapore Tourism Board in Tourism Court (website: www.visitsingapore.com) can provide information on an enormous number of city tours, whether walking, on buses, cruises, by night or by special interest. Hotels can usually book any of these. Walking Tours The Singapore Tourism Board produces a series of Yours To Explore guides for walking tours, including the Singapore River, Chinatown, Little India, Orchard Road and various arts sights. Singapore Sightseeing Tour East (tel: 6332 3755; website: www.singaporetours.com.sg) conducts a longer tour through the sights, smells and sounds of Little India. This tour promises insights into fortune-telling, flower weaving, making the perfect curry powder and the secrets of ayurvedic medicine. The two-and-a-half-hour tour costs S$30 and starts at 1000. Bus Tours There are many bus tours run by different private operators – Singapore Tourism Board can provide details or they can be booked via hotels. One of the most popular is the Singapore Trolley (tel: 6339 6833), an imitation of the red trams of the 1920s. The one-hour tour takes in 17 spots between Orchard Road, the colonial district and Clarke Quay, with running commentary. The fare (S$14.90) includes a free riverboat tour. There are six tours a day, departing Clarke Quay at 0945, 1045, 1245, 1345, 1500 and 1600. Other Tours An alliance of travel operators, East-West Executive Travellers PTE Ltd (tel: (612) 9997 8010, Australia; website: www.singapore.travelmall.com), based in Australia, runs a number of unusual and interesting tours in Singapore. Singapore Sightseeing Tour East (see above) also offer cruise tours. Excursions For a Half Day Pulau Ubin: The boomerang-shaped island with just 200 inhabitants is a favourite getaway for locals – and is consequently very busy at weekends. With its thatched huts, rubber plantations, mangrove swamps and traditional fishing kelongs, Pulau Ubin – known as Stone Mountain because it is rich in granite – offers a vision of a disappeared Singapore. But, typical of Singapore, this island is gradually being developed into a nature park with trails, shelters, camp sites and chalets. On the eastern tip is Check Jawa, a beach that has its fair share of marine life and can be visited only by boat during low tide. There are also a couple of colourful temples by the seashore, as well as seafood restaurants serving good local dishes and cafés selling drinks. The ten-minute boat ride from Changi Point jetty costs S$2 (S$3 with a bicycle) and ferries leave regularly 0600-2300. Visitors can charter the whole boat for S$20. There is a tourist information centre near the pier, and bikes can be hired from several shops by the pier as well. The National Parks Board can provide further information (tel: 6542 4108; website: www.nparks.gov.sg). For a Whole Day Johor Bahru: Singaporeans flock to Johor Bahru, just over the Malasian border. Known as JB, it is great for food, bargain shopping, golf and beaches. Situated just across the causeway, it should take less than an hour by car, but at weekends and public holidays, it can take three hours or more. A train journey from Singapore Railway Station could be the wisest option for getting there or a combination of MRT to Woodlands and a bus from the other side of the Immigration building. With its blend of historic and modern architecture, JB’s most striking building is the Royal Bakar Mosque, whose majestic domes and minarets overlook the Straits of Johor. There is a string of outdoor restaurants serving up seafood on the waterfront by the Eden Gardens Hotel. Riau Islands: The Indonesian islands of Batam and Bintan make for a great weekend getaway with luxury resorts, fairways, beaches, duty-free shopping and delicious seafood. Ferries leave daily from the World Trade Centre and the Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal. Singapore Sightseeing Tour East (tel: 6332 3755; website: www.singaporetours.com.sg) offers a day trip on a high-speed ferry to Batam, with visits to temples, markets and restaurants, for S$87 per person. Other operators include: Dino Shipping (tel: 6270 2228); Bintan Resort Ferries (tel: 6542 4369) and Widi Express Ferries Pte (tel: 6275 2220). Malacca: The 15th-century seat of the Malaya Sultanate, Malacca – a three- or four-hour drive from Singapore – was colonised by the Portuguese, Dutch and British in their attempts to gain control of the region and the lucrative spice trade. Located on the western cost of Malaysia, its quiet demeanour belies its historical significance: Malay folk hero Hang Tuah wandered its streets, while St Francis Xavier preached on St Paul’s Hill. SH Tours (tel: 6734 9923; website: www.travelasia.com.sg) offers day trips leaving every day at 0830, which visit St Paul’s Church, Chench Hooh Teng Temple and the ruins of the Portuguese fortress Port De Santiago, and cost S$75 per person. Hotels Hotel prices are subject to additional charges of 14%, broken down as 10% service charge, 3% GST (which will rise to 5% in 2003) and 1% government tax. This will be added to the bill at the end (usually called ‘triple plus’). The prices quoted below are the published starting prices for double rooms, excluding breakfast and the above extra charges, unless otherwise specified. Online reservations can be made at discounted rates for the top hotels (website: www.asiatravel.com and www.stayinsingapore.com). The hotel reservation desks at all terminals in the airport also make bookings with discounted rates. Top hotels often have a promotion price at less than half the published price, so it always worth checking prices. Business Concorde Hotel The Concorde Hotel is situated in a smart, charcoal-grey futuristic-looking building with a friendly ambience. It offers remarkable value, not least for the business traveller who can make use of a range of facilities and services, including secretarial, fax, photocopying, courier services, translation, library and use of overhead and slide projectors. The 515 rooms (three floors are earmarked for businesspeople) feature mini-bars, safes and cable and satellite television. There is a swimming pool, tennis court and gym. The hotel lies in a fairly quiet part of the city some way west of Chinatown. 317 Outram Road Tel: 6733 0188. Fax: 6733 0989. E-mail: singapore@concorde.net Website: www.concorde.net/sing Price: From S$119. Gallery Evason Hotel The new chic Gallery Evason Hotel, located within the city’s business hub, has gained quite a reputation – thanks to its designer cool and features such as a free mini-bar and interactive doorway CCTV (in deluxe rooms), free Internet access in all rooms and executive women-only floors. The 222-room hotel consists of three blocks linked by bridges and open walkways; a fifth-floor pool hangs over the street below. The red-, blue- and yellow-framed windows will appeal to the serious businessperson who enjoys a splash of colour. Room facilities include multilingual voice-mail and digital room safes. Different sized rooms are available in The Glazzhaus (which even has longer beds for extra tall people!) with junior suites in The Observatory facing the river, and king-sized beds in studio suites in the Executive Studio. 76 Robertson Quay Tel: 6849 8686. Fax: 6836 6666. E-mail: general@galleryhotel.com.sg Website: www.asiatravel.com/singapore/gallery_evason Price: From S$295. Novotel Apollo Business travellers recently voted Singapore the world’s best business destination in a magazine poll; consequently many of the main business hotels can feel justified in refurbishing and tacking on more rooms. The Novotel, now part of Accor, one of the largest hotel and tourism companies, is no exception. Billing itself as ‘the business-class hotel’ in Havelock Road, there are now 480 rooms and a new wing after an S$80 million upgrade – mostly in soothing pastel shades and polished wood. There is an executive floor and a host of conference, banqueting and leisure facilities. A shuttle service runs to Orchard Road and from there to Chinatown. Rooms feature Internet access in deluxe rooms, cable television, voice-mail. There are European, Indonesian and Korean restaurants; a fitness centre, tennis facilities and Jacuzzi. The ethnic quarter of Chinatown separates the hotel from the business hub by a short walk. 405 Havelock Road Tel: 6733 2081. Fax: 6733 1588. E-mail: reserve@novotelapollo.com Website: www.novotelapollo.com Prices: From S$280. Swissotel The Stamford & Raffles The Plaza These two giants stand beside each other and loom over the city (The Stamford is Asia’s third tallest hotel) – which previously were part of the same company and known as Westin Stamford and Westin Plaza, and still consider themselves sister hotels. Between them, they provide more than 2000 well-equipped rooms, situated at the hub of the main business, cultural and shopping districts. They form part of the Raffles City complex and boast sophisticated convention and business centres, as well as the Amrita Spa. On the 70th to 72nd floors is the Equinox complex, with five restaurants and lounges. There are balconies with every room, harbour views on the higher floors, and each hotel has top of the range decor with classical features. Raffles The Plaza has a Sezchuan, Japanese and Italian restaurants, as well as the usual lobby lounges and 24-hour cafés. These adjacent hotels, since their name change, continue to be some of the finest and most convenient hotels in town. Swissotel The Stamford 2 Stamford Road Tel: 6338 8585. Fax: 6336 5117. E-mail: reservations.singaporeinfo@swissotel.com Website: www.swissotel-thestamford.com Price: From S$360. Raffles The Plaza 2 Stamford Road Tel: 6339 7777. Fax: 6336 6210. E-mail: reservations.plaza@raffles.com Website: www.rafflestheplazahotel.com Price: From S$390. Luxury Raffles Hotel A national monument, named after Singapore’s founding father, the Raffles Hotel is as much a point on the sightseeing trail as anything else. Still one of the most opulent and luxurious hotels in the world, it consistently ranks among the best in hotel polls. Restored a decade ago to its former glory, residents can step back in time in one of 103 suites, which each come with their own valet. Royalty, celebrities and writers all stayed here and homage is paid at every turn. Somerset Maugham made the first of three visits in 1921 and Noel Coward visited in 1930. Maurice Chevalier, Jean Harlow and Charlie Chaplin feature among a coterie of famous guests. Raffles is one place where living in the past is a definite plus. The Amrita Spa is the latest addition to a host of facilities, including swimming pool, business centre, florist, hotel arcade, boardrooms and its own theatre in Jubilee Hall. 1 Beach Road Tel: 6337 1886. Fax: 6339 7650. E-mail: raffles@raffles.com Website: www.raffleshotel.com Price: From S$700. The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore This huge high-rise building has some of the best rooms on the island. Deft touches like timber and Tibetan rooms and baths that look down on the city has helped make it a favourite, as well as S$5 million worth of contemporary artworks, including Sunrise, a massive glass construction by Dale Chihuly. Features like a Greco-Roman pool set amid 2.3 hectares (seven acres) of landscaped tropical gardens, together with its location at the heart of the busy Marina Centre near the business and financial districts, have made it hard to beat. Its 610 rooms feature two-line phones, fax on request, walk-in wardrobes and separate bath and shower rooms. The hotel’s signature restaurant is the Summer Pavilion, set in a picturesque lotus garden, which serves 12 blends of Chinese tea. There is also a spa and gym, with top-of-the-range facilities. 7 Raffles Avenue Tel: 6337 8888. Fax: 6337 5190. E-mail: reservations@ritz-carlton.com.sg Website: www.ritzcarlton.com Prices: From S$515. Moderate Albert Court Hotel This tidy boutique hotel with 136 rooms is ideal for the visitor looking for reasonable value for money, in comfortable and pleasant surroundings. Plants and marble floors adorn a small entrance off Albert Street; the reception is just up the escalator. Facilities are functional rather than extravagant. Rooms have ceiling fans, colour television, shower/bath and mini-bar. Children under 12 years can stay for no extra cost. The hotel is situated at the junction of Rochor Canal Road and Selegie Road and is a short walk from the sights and sounds (and smells) of Little India and Bugis Village. Outside is a pleasant, paved courtyard that services a number of restaurants. The Orchard Road shops are a 15-minute walk away. 180 Albert Street Tel: 6339 3939. Fax: 6339 3252. E-mail: sales.mktg@albertcourt.com.sg Website: www.albertcourt.com.sg Price: From S$185. Allson Hotel Singapore Moderate prices in new rooms are make this four-star hotel a great deal. Situated close to local amenities, the Allson is just a short walk from central and shopping districts. There are 450 rooms and 16 serviced apartments and facilities include a barber and hairdresser, business centre and outdoor swimming pool. Rooms are furnished in leather and rosewood and feature individually controlled air conditioning, free in-house movies and satellite television. Customers can check out as late as 1500 after lunch in the Japanese restaurant. 101 Victoria Street Tel: 6336 0811. Fax: 6334 0631. E-mail: allson.sales@pacific.net.sg Website: www.allsonhotels.com.my/allson Price: From S$250. Other Recommendations Shangri-La’s Rasa Sentosa Resort This is Singapore’s only beachfront hotel, located on the island of Sentosa, which is only a 15-minute drive from the city. It is one of the best hotels on the island, with all 459 rooms having private balcony overlooking the sea or the hills of Fort Siloso. This resort hotel has a range of leisure facilities, including a huge swimming pool, spa and sea sports centre. It also has a business centre, as well as international and Asian restaurants. Because of its location, the emphasis is on a holiday package or relaxing break, rather than a business trip. In-room facilities include voice-mail, safe, mini-bar and movie channels. The cost of a room includes breakfast, dinner and late check-out, free laundry, free local calls and non-motorised water sports. 101 Siloso Road, Sentosa Tel: 6275 0100. Fax: 6275 0355. E-mail: reservations@shangri-la.com.sg Website: www.shangri-la.com Price: From S$290 (including breakfast etc). The Fullerton Singapore The Fullerton may be the new kid on the block (it opened at the end of 2000), but situated in one of Singapore’s oldest, largest and grandest buildings, it is already making quite an impression. Built in 1928, the Doric columns of Palladian architecture place it in a unique triumvirate of colonial buildings, including the Supreme Court and City Hall. It is based on the site of Fort Fullerton, which was built in 1829 at the mouth of Singapore River to defend the town. The building is now home to 400 hotel rooms and offers Internet access, spa, reading room and bathrooms designed by Philippe Starck. It is situated in the business district. 1 Fullerton Square Tel: 6733 8388. Fax: 6735 8388. E-mail: reservations@fullertonhotel.com Website: www.fullertonhotel.com Price: From S$450. Restaurants We have selected 25 restaurants, which we have divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. Restaurants will add a 10% service charge, 3% GST (which will rise to 5% in 2003) and 1% government tax to the bill. This 14% is known as ‘triple plus’ and is mandatory. Tipping is not required on top. The prices quoted below are for a three-course meal and for a bottle of house wine or equivalent; they do not include service charge or tax. Gastronomic Alkaff Mansion This elegant mansion, built in the 1920s, is one of Singapore’s finest with high ceilings, wooden beams and antique tiles. Its decadent atmosphere is enhanced by the fantastic view from the top of the hill over acres of park. Start in the Verandah Bar for an apéritif and move upstairs for the fabulous Dutch-Indonesian cuisine. In addition to the à la carte menu, there is an 11-course Rijsttafel Menu (S$60) with dishes like red snapper with mixed pickles or grilled sliced lamb loin with chilli soy sauce. All ceremoniously served with staff in traditional dress, it is a wonderful way of experiencing this cuisine. For the less adventurous, the Western Menu includes chicken bouillabaisse and tortellini with anchovies, and there is a four-course Western set menu at lunchtime for S$30. 10 Telok Blangah Green Tel: 6278 6979. Fax: 6274 0460. E-mail: reservations@alkaffmansion.com.sg Website: www.alkaffmansion.com.sg Price: S$70. Wine: S$48. L’Aigle Dor The Art Nouveau interior of L’Aigle Dor creates a cosy yet classy ambience. One of the best authentic French restaurants in town, the cuisine and service are renowned. A meal might start with snails in delicate puff pastry or pan-fried foie gras with raspberry sauce. Fish is on the menu but meat dominates the main courses, with dishes like fried rack of veal and roasted rack of lamb with herbs. Grand Marnier soufflé or the old classic, crème brûlée, are an ideal way to finish off an evening. Duxton Hotel, 83 Duxton Road Tel: 6227 7678, Fax: 6227 1232. E-mail: berhotel@singnet.com.sg Price: S$90. Wine: S$60. Man Fu Yuan Man Fu Yuan is an elegant restaurant that serves up an exquisite selection of Cantonese dishes with a unique slant. Starters include deep-fried lobster and prawn roll in filo pastry, or a barbecue platter with marinated eel and slivers of chicken liver on toast. The shark fin soup is double-boiled with shark’s bone stock. Pork spare ribs are baked and cooked with a coffee-flavoured sauce and, for dessert, the homemade beancurd with sugar syrup or the hasma with red dates are recommended. The serene setting and gracious service merely enhance the finesse of the food. Hotel Inter-Continental Singapore, 80 Middle Road Tel: 6431 1062. Fax: 6431 1139. Price: S$50. Wine: S$60. Morton’s of Chicago This slice of America is best known for its superb, succulent steaks, huge portions and unrivalled service. The atmosphere is plush yet intimate, in true gentleman’s club style with huge upholstered seats and Sinatra crooning in the background. Entrées like the Maine lobster, tender crab cakes and grilled scallops wrapped in bacon come highly recommended. The house speciality is porterhouse, a double delight with one side filet mignon and the other New York strip. Apart from huge succulent hunks of US steak, there is also a good selection of chicken, fish and seafood mains. For the sweet tooth, the Godiva hot chocolate cake is renowned. The Oriental Singapore Hotel, 5 Raffles Avenue, Marina Square Tel: 6339 3740. Fax: 6337 3763. Website: www.mortons.com Price: S$100. Wine: S$80. Raffles Grill The classic French cuisine and top-class service has made the Grill Raffles Hotel’s most exclusive restaurant and well deservedly. It has previously been named as the island’s top restaurant and the current chef has won Michelin stars. The old colonial interior is innately stylish, while the food is exquisite. Sautéed duck’s liver is a house speciality, but other dishes include poached pigeon, warm smoked Atlantic salmon and suckling pig with delicious crackling. Finish up with a selection of soufflés or flambées. 1 Beach Road Tel: 6337 1886. Fax: 6339 7650. E-mail: rafflesgrill@raffles.com Website: www.raffles.com Price: S$100. Wine: S$70. Business Au Jardin Les Amis This branch of the Les Amis group surely wins the prize for the most picturesque setting. Set amid the Botanic Gardens, it overlooks lush greenery and offers fantastic views from its two balconies. Its spacious interior is particularly good for wining and dining clients. The fixed-price menu offers a three-course set lunch for S$55 and a huge six-course dinner for S$150. Favourite dishes include veal cheek and fillet of lamb tenderloin with sweetbreads. The wine list is highly reputable. Reservations are highly recommended. The group’s other branches, The Lighthouse and Les Amis, also have à la carte menus. EJH Corner House, Singapore Botanic Gardens, Cluny Road Tel: 6466 8812. Fax: 6466 8227. Website: www.lesamis.com.sg Price: S$150 (six-course set menu). Wine: S$70. Les Amis 16 Shaw Centre, 1 Scotts Road Tel: 6733 2225. Fax: 6735 0106. The Lighthouse The Fullerton Hotel, 1 Fullerton Square Tel: 6877 8932, Fax: 6877 8931. Harbour Grill and Oyster Bar With a cosy, old-world decor, ornate furnishings and an open kitchen area, Harbour Grill has enjoyed a long-standing reputation for classic French and continental food. Good starters are the garlic smoked salmon or seafood minestrone or, most appropriately, the fresh Canadian or Fines de Claire oysters. For main courses, the roast veal is cooked with rosemary and thyme, while fish lovers will really go for the grilled tuna belly with bacon and Japanese peas. For a rich dessert, warm chocolate fondue comes with biscotti, nuts and strawberries for dipping. Exquisite! A four-course set lunch costs S$45, with three courses at S$38. Closed Sunday. Level 3, Hilton Hotel Singapore, 581 Orchard Road Tel: 6730 3393. Fax: 6235 4140. E-mail: harbourgrill@yahoo.com.sg Price: S$75. Wine: S$55. Jiang-Nan Chun Award-winning personalised and helpful service and an understated chic setting makes this restaurant well suited for a business meal. The innovative Chinese cuisine features traditional dishes with a twist, like deep-fried spare ribs with coffee sauce. But classic Chinese favourites include barbecue pigeon, braised shark fin soup with crab rolls, or pork and squid dumplings flavoured with water chestnut. Four Seasons Hotel, 190 Orchard Boulevard Tel: 6831 7220. Fax: 6831 7159. Price: S$70. Wine: S$55. Mezza9 Simple Zen and urban chic makes a winning combination in this diverse restaurant of 450 seats. The restaurant serves four cuisines – Chinese, Thai, Japanese and Western – divided into nine sections, including a European Deli, Chinese steam basket, and sushi and sashimi bar. The à la carte menu has an ever-changing selection of each, including Chinese chilli crab, yakitori (Japanese barbecue) and tom yam gung. Set lunches are available during the week (S$16-60) and Sunday brunches have the full range of cuisine, plus free-flowing champagne and a chocolate fountain for S$78. Mezza9 retains its reputation as a unique dining concept in Singapore. Grand Hyatt Singapore, 10/12 Scotts Road Tel: 6416 7189. Fax: 6732 1696. Website: www.restaurants.singapore.hyatt.com Price: S$70. Wine: S$60. The Oaks Grill and Bar Set in a rather inauspicious shopping mall, this restaurant nonetheless has a bright, friendly atmosphere and a popular outdoor terrace. Specialising in Australian steaks and seafood, cooked with an Asian flavour, it originated as a wine store and so not surprisingly has a fine wine selection. A favourite starter is Australian lobster skewers, pan-seared and served with sweet and sour chilli sauce. For mains, the Kangaroo steak served with red wine sauce, the grilled ostrich steak, or the blue-eyed cod with tarragon sauce are recommended. Everything is cooked to perfection and The Oaks is a good example of how tasty barbecued food can be. Tanglin Mall, 163 Tanglin Road Tel: 6735 8611. Fax: 6735 8600. Price: S$50. Wine: S$42. Trendy Indochine This group of three restaurants serves authentic food from Indochina. Indochine Alfresco, on Waterloo Street, offers casual alfresco dining in a courtyard setting and serves light food like the famous Vietnamese beef noodles. Indochine Wine Bar and Restaurant on Club Street is more sophisticated, with dark decor and bold sculptures. It offers more complex dishes, like Loatian pork patties wrapped around lemongrass stalks. The newest addition is the trendy Waterfront, on Empress Place, with a huge terrace adjacent to the river and indoor seating behind glass panels. It boasts fusion food like Cambodian chicken with garlic, chilli and basil sauce, and an Indonesian platter including tasters of prawns on sugar cane, dried beef and spring rolls. Indochine Alfresco 42 Waterloo Street Tel: 6333 5003. Fax: 6323 2417. Price: S$50. Wine: S$58 Indochine Wine Bar and Restaurant 49 Club Street Tel: 6323 0503. Fax: 6323 2417. Waterfront 1 Empress Place Tel: 6339 1720. Fax: 6339 0420. Marmalade One of the best and trendiest restaurants on the island, this stylish, upmarket venue has stark, minimalist aesthetics. Based in the heart of the city adjacent to the Metropole Hotel, Marmalade has a small but popular modern European menu serving high-quality food that changes every few months. Starters might include pan-fried foie gras with armagnac, or pressed leek terrine served chilled with black truffle essence and champagne vinaigrette. Main courses include seriously meaty delights like grilled pork tenderloin, and vegetarian and fish dishes like eggplant tempora salad with marine sauce. There is also a five-course tasting menu at S$88 or S$118 with wines, with a vegetarian equivalent for S$78 and S$108. No lunch. Closed Sunday. 36 Purvis Street Tel: 6837 2123. Fax: 6837 2124. Website: www.marmalade.com.sg Price: S$75. Wine: S$70. Pierside Kitchen and Bar With an emphasis on seafood, the modern cuisine in this new venue (opened in October 2000) adds a dash of Japanese to its dishes. The waterfront location is a trendy area, with alfresco dining available with a harbour view. Starters include cumin-spiced crab cakes with marinated cucumber and chilli, and seaweed-wrapped tuna tempura. For main course, the oven-roasted miso cod with new potatoes and sweet peas comes highly recommended, as does the Maine lobster linguine. Simpler food is available at lunchtimes. The highlight of the dessert menu is the warm chocolate tart with a molten lava centre. With stylish decor, staff and ambience, Pierside has already made its mark as a trendy dining spot. One Fullerton, 1 Fullerton Road Tel: 6438 0400. Price: S$60. Wine: S$66. Saint Pierre Emmanual Stroobant, a winner of Best Chef of the Year, unites his Belgian roots and Asian experience in an elegant, simple and modern restaurant. The Modern French menu includes delicacies like pan-fried foie gras with caramelised apple in port sauce, braised black cod with white misu, and braised rabbit with mustard and wasabe. For dessert, Grandma Stroobant’s flourless Belgian chocolate cake lives up to its reputation as unmissable. Reservations recommended. No dinner Sunday; no lunch Saturday. Central Mall, 7 Magazine Road Tel: 6438 0887. Fax: 6438 4887. Website: www.saintpierre.com.sg Price: S$100. Wine: S$45. Union Restaurant and Bar One of the newest and trendiest venues in this hippest of streets, Union has an oh-so-cool bar on the ground floor with dim lights and fine cocktails and a restaurant serving modern European cuisine. If pan-fried foie grois is passé, then try the grilled mussels with lemongrass and coconut. Duck is pan-fried with a crispy skin and served with berry coulis, while the lobster risotto is deservedly one of their most popular main courses. Diners can top it all off with forest berry crêpes with honey sauce and relax in a simple, clean and spacious setting with seductive lighting and music. A good-value three-course lunch is available for S$25. 81 Club Street Tel: 6327 4990. Fax: 6327 4989. E-mail: union@gastronomical.biz Price: S$55. Wine: S$48. Budget Gorkha Grill This little gem of a dining room, tucked in the busy eating area of Smith Street, is Singapore’s first authentic Nepalese restaurant. Small and friendly, with huge murals of mountain scenery, the menu is a great sample of the flavours and spices of Nepal. Filling without being heavy and greasy, momos (meat or vegetarian steamed or fried dumplings) are a great way to start. Recommended dishes include soup made from beans simmered with green vegetables and herbs; Jheenge papita (prawns marinated with herbs and vegetables) served in a papaya boat, and the kukhura so makhani (chicken marinated with herbs, cooked with butter gravy), which is done to tender perfection. Gorkha Grill is tasty and reasonably priced – made more economical by bringing your own wine. A set lunch is available for S$6.50. 21 Smith Street Tel: 6227 0806. Price: S$25. Wine: BYO. Komala Vilas Komala Vilas is one of a plethora of small, casual eating places in the ethnic quarter of Little India. The vegetarian menu provides a whole traditional South Indian meal, with favourites such as the dosai, a vegetable-filled crêpe, and thali, a complete meal comprising rice, lentils and a selection of curries, all served on a banana leaf. A great place for breakfast, open from 0700. No credit cards. 76-78 Serangoon Road Tel: 6293 6980. Fax: 6392 9385. 12-14 Buffalo Road Tel: 6293 3664. E-mail: komala@singnet.com.sg Price: S$10. Unlicensed. Ling Zhi With Chinese food being dominated by meat and seafood, it is something of a relief to be able to enjoy pure vegetarian dishes – and at reasonable prices. Dim sum is a good place to start – the fried monkey head mushrooms with capsicum and dried chilli must be tried (despite the name), as must the honshimeiji mushrooms, which are stir fried with asparagus, capsicum and macadamia nuts in a crispy yam basket. The chefs in the two outlets have proved that it is possible to turn vegetables and soya into imaginative and tasty dishes. Because of location and price, lunchtimes are busy but generally cosy, with friendly service. Liat Towers, 541 Orchard Road Tel: 6734 3788. Far East Square, 7-10 Amoy St Tel: 6538 2992. Price: S$25. Wine: Unlicensed. Newton Circus Eating in a hawker centre is a dining experience special to Singapore, with many around the city, especially in the shopping areas. Newton Circus has always been popular with locals and visitors, mainly because it is outdoor and open 24 hours. Diners should ignore the touts who try and entice tourists to their stall and look at what each place offers, then find a table and place an order. As with most food centres, you can order from different stalls and it will all be brought to your table. It does not offer the greatest range of dishes, with few vegetarian options, nor is it the cheapest, but the atmosphere is always lively whether people gather for a late-night meal, for breakfast, or for a beer at 4am. Newton Circus, next to the Newton MRT Price: From S$4. Beer: From S$4. Orchard Maharajah This small North Indian restaurant, situated in Orchard Road’s shopping district, is ideal for those who like outdoor dining in the midst of activity. Despite its modest location and price, the food is impressive. The tandoori platter comes laden with chicken tikka, fish, shish kebab and prawns. The Raan e Maharajah is the house speciality, with lamb marinated overnight and roast in the tandoor. Vegetarian dishes include the classic saag aloo (spinach and potato) and baigan bartha (aubergine with spices). 27 Cuppage Terrace Tel: 6732 6331. Price: S$25. Wine: S$30. Personal Recommendations Broth Since opening in August 2001, Broth has already proved to be a popular place for lunch and dinner in the business district of Chinatown. The Mediterranean atmosphere of the leafy side-street is reflected in the high-ceilinged, cool interior, with only eight tables inside and two on the pavement. The cuisine is Modern European, its dinner menu favouring meaty main courses like Middle Eastern chicken or US pork tenderloin roasted with prosciutto and quince. There is more variety at lunchtime: snails on brioche with roast garlic for starters, potato and white truffle gnocchi for a main and the outstanding dessert menu – the sticky date pudding should not be missed. A suitable place for a quiet dinner, with relaxing music and friendly service. 21 Duxton Hill Tel: 6323 3353. Price: S$50. Wine: S$55. Crossroads Café The location here is the real gem. Bang in the middle of Orchard’s shopping and business district on pavement level, its relaxing, terrace-like atmosphere is perfect for people-watching. The extensive menu has snacks, meals and breakfasts with Asian and Western cuisine and the beauty lies in its variety. The Late Breakfast menu includes American pancakes and Eggs Benedict. Dinner might start with a classic Caesar salad with smoked salmon or an Asian combination platter; and move on to the popular Yong chow fried rice with pork, shrimp and chicken satay, or a five-spiced fillet of cod. There is a long list of sandwiches, side orders, as well as a desert buffet for S$10, which makes this ideal whether for an afternoon coffee, a cool beer or a three-course dinner. Singapore Marriott Hotel, 320 Orchard Road Tel: 6831 4627. Fax: 6735 9800. Price: S$40. Wine: S$50. Doc Cheng’s Specialising in cuisine known as trans-ethnic, Doc Cheng’s uses unusual combinations of ingredients, which is the restaurant’s signature. Fusion cuisine tends to be an over-used description but here is one place that offers the real thing. For starters, Doc’s pu-pu plate includes a range of appetisers like samosas, tuna tartare and pork dumplings. Mains include Sezchuan rack of lamb marinated with spices, char-boiled miso butter fish, or wok-charred big-eye Hawaiian tuna. A suitable unique dessert would be caramelised bananas baked with sticky rice ice cream. Raffles Hotel Arcade, 328 North Bridge Road Tel: 6331 1612. E-mail: raffles@raffles.com Website: www.raffles.com Price: S$65. Wine: S$65. Esmiradas With a heavy Greek accent, Esmiradas has recently moved to this larger venue and makes for a lively night out, rather than a quiet dinner for two. The salads are full of creamy feta cheese and black olives; main courses include skewered meat and seafood served with bell pepper relish and tzatziki, paella or lamb couscous. The desserts are wonderful, with award-winning tiramisu and lemon crème brûlée. But the pièce de résistance is the Kramat coffee, where the waiters at the table prepare a flambéed coffee, loaded with Cointreau, Grand Marnier and Drambuie. Service is informal and friendly yet efficient and there is a separate huge dining table seating ten people, ideal for a more private dinner party. Orchard Hotel, 442 Orchard Road Tel: 6735 3476. Price: S$50. Wine: S$50. Original Sin This is one of Singapore’s few European vegetarian restaurants, a stylish venue in the ex-pat suburb of Holland Village. There is a tempting choice of bruschettas, salads and starters, the best of which is the mezze plate with six Middle Eastern specialties, like babaganoush (roast eggplant dip) and koresh (pumpkin, pinenuts and cinammon), served with hunks of pitta bread. The pizzas and calzones are far from predictable, with toppings like roast pumpkin, avocado, smoked cheese and asparagus. The Italian chef excels in rissottos, frittata and pastas, and after sampling all that, there is a mouthwatering cheesecake and liqueur coffee to finish. Dishes can also be adapted to cater for vegans – and even non-vegetarians might be coming back for more! Chip Bee Gardens, 43 Jalan Merah Saga, Holland Village Tel: 6476 7782. Fax: 6476 4261. Website: www.sistina.com.sg Price: S$50. Wine: S$39. Sport Singapore may be renowned for its food-lovers and shopaholics but improving its people’s fitness levels is high on the government’s agenda – although they have quite a job on their hands. Hardly the most physically dynamic of nations, competitive sports are not prominent and the nation’s favourite sports are listed as swimming and jogging, although there is a rising popularity in hockey and tennis. Every year, the Singapore Sports Council (tel: 6345 7111; website: www.ssc.gov.sg) organises healthy lifestyle activities designed for maximum participation, including national swim and cycle events. SPEX21 is a new initiative to encourage high-performance athletes in soccer, badminton, swimming and table tennis. There are more than a dozen stadiums and, with fitness such a high priority, there are facilities at every level across the island. Swimming is a favourite pastime, with pools in most residential areas; gyms are equipped with the latest in fitness technology. One of Singapore’s major sporting attractions is its acres of golf courses and, as an island, there are plenty of opportunities for watersports. For spectators, the national soccer team, the S-league (website: www.sleague.com), play at home at the National Stadium, Kallang. English football is immensely popular with regular televised Premier League and European matches; Liverpool and Manchester United have even toured Singapore over the past few years to play against local sides. Every year sees a boozy fiesta of international rugby, at the Rugby 7’s held in April also at the National Stadium. The Singapore Indoor Stadium, also at Kallang, hosts the Heineken Tennis Open tournament. One of the most popular spectator sports is horseracing, conducted all year round at the Singapore Turf Club (tel: 6879 1000) at Kranji, which provides the only legal outlet for gambling. Highlights are the Queen Elizabeth Cup and the lucrative Singapore Airlines International Cup, held in May. There is a dress code even in the public stands, with no shorts allowed and a smart-casual look for the Hibiscus Room, which allows visitors. Rugby and cricket matches are held on the Padang, an attractive setting at the colonial heart of Singapore. This is the home of the Singapore Cricket Club and is members only, although it is possible to watch matches away from the clubhouse. There are several other cricket grounds around the city, and league matches are held at weekends. Information on fixtures, events and venues are available through Singapore Sports Council (see above). Bowling: Ten-pin bowling is a popular pastime with over 20 bowling alleys in the city. The Singapore Ten-pin Bowling Congress (tel: 6440 7388) can give details of venues. Most are open 0900-0200 although some are open 24 hours. Fitness centres: Numerous centres include Ray Wilson California Fitness Center, Grange Road (tel: 6834 2100; website: www.calfitnesscentres.com), and Takashimaya Fitness Club, Ngee Ann City (tel: 6739 9314). Gym facilities are also available at all the major hotels. Golf: Singapore is said to have more golf courses per capita than any other country in the world (18), several of which are of championship quality. In most clubs, non-members are not allowed at weekends and they are often expected to hold a handicap or proficiency certificate to play at all. Courses include: Changi Golf Club, Netheravon Road (tel: 6545 5133), which has a nine-hole course with green fees from S$40; Keppel Club, Bukit Chermin Road (tel: 6273 5522), 18 holes from S$105; Laguna National Golf & Country Club, Laguna Golf Green (tel: 6541 0289), a masters and a classic course from S$150; Raffles Country Club, Jalan Ahmad Ibrahim (tel: 6861 7655), two 18-hole courses from S$123; Sentosa Golf Club, Bukit Manis Road (tel: 6275 0022), two 18-hole courses from S$164. More information on golf courses is available from the Singapore Tourism Board (website: www.visitsingapore.com). Karting: Karting Club of Singapore, 2 Fisher Street, Merchant Square (tel: 6354 2319; website: www.kartingclub-sg.com) encourages people to safely try go-karting. Riding & polo: The Singapore Polo Club, Mount Pleasant Road (tel: 6256 4530), hosts polo matches throughout the year. Sailing: Seasport Centre, Lagoon Hawker Centre, East Coast Parkway (tel: 6449 5118; fax: 6449 7181), can be used by non-members for windsurfing and sailing; as can the Changi Sailing Club, 32 Netheravon Road (tel: 6545 2876; fax: 6542 4235; e-mail: enquiry@csc.org.sg). Scuba diving: Singapore is not a destination offering crystal clear waters and colourful marine life but it is a good location to complete the pool training before heading off to clearer waters in Malaysia or Indonesia for open-water diving. There are several reputable dive operators, including Big Bubble Centre (tel: 6222 6862); SEADive Adventures (tel: 6734 7730) and the St Andrews Centre, 250 Tanjong Pagar Road (tel: 6220 9339; fax: 6220 7619). Squash: Courts can be hired at Kallang Squash and Tennis Centre, 52 Stadium Road (tel: 6440 6839), and St Wilfred Squash and Tennis Centre, 3 St Wilfred Road (tel: 6293 3452). Swimming: All the top hotels have pools and every residential neighbourhood has a public swimming complex. The Singapore Sports Council (tel: 6345 7111; website: www.ssc.gov.sg) can provide information. Tennis: Singapore Tennis Centre, East Coast Parkway (tel: 6449 9034), offers courts for hire; as does the Bedok Tennis Centre, 3 Bedok North Street (tel: 6443 1767) and Jurong Tennis Centre, 10, 4th Chin Bee Road (tel: 6265 0586). See also Squash above. Water-skiing & wakeboarding: Singapore’s waters can be quite sludgy but Singapore is one of Asia’s top water-skiing and wakeboarding nations. Several centres rent out equipment and also offer professional instruction: Cowabunga Ski Centre at Kallang Riverside Park (tel: 6344 8813; fax: 6346 1780; e-mail: cowabunga@pacific.net.sg); Ponggol Seasports, Ponggol Marina (tel: 6386 3891), and Williams Water Sports Centre, Sembawang Seasport Club (tel: 6257 5859; fax: 6386 3495). Shopping Whether it is because Singapore offers great shopping or whether it is because it is continually being talked up, a reputation as a shopper’s paradise is immovably entrenched. The Great Singapore Sale from May to early July, with bargains of up to 70% off, is almost a national obsession and attracts shoppers from throughout the region. Orchard Road is the central retail district and is lined on both sides with one shopping mall after another, ranging from Lucky Plaza at the lower end of the market to high-end shopping at the Palais Renaissance, the Hilton Shopping Gallery and Paragon. With its towers looming above the rest, Ngee Ann City is the largest mall of all, with more than 100 speciality stores in addition to its flagship Japanese superstore, Takashimaya. The top floors of the Heeren Centre are a collection of market stalls selling fun and novelty items. The same centre is also home to a huge HMV, the largest music store in the city. Centrepoint, in the middle of Orchard, is home to Robinsons, Singapore’s oldest and award-winning department store. Orchard Road, however, does not have the monopoly on great shopping. There are more than 120 malls and arcades on the island. Bugis Junction, once Singapore’s transvestite locale, has had its shop-houses renovated and integrated into a gleaming, air-conditioned complex known as PARCO and there is also a street market selling cheaper items and souvenirs. Raffles City, at City Hall, is another popular mall, with the exclusive boutiques at Raffles Hotel just across the road. Chinatown (Outram) is a colourful web of streets and alleys with a wealth of artefacts, jewellery, clothes, food and medicines for sale behind traditional Chinese shop-house fronts. The newly paved Smith Street and Trengganu Street are good for cheap clothes and souvenirs. Gold, priced according to weight, is heaped up in the stores crowding the People’s Park Complex, while hawkers offer the full-smelling durian fruit or grilled pork to passers-by. Nearby is Yue Hwa Chinese Products, a five-floor department store selling all things Chinese, while Chinatown Point contains the Singapore Handicraft Centre. While the major department stores and chains operate fixed prices, bargaining is de rigeur in other places and it is always worth comparing prices before buying. The Singapore Gold Circle seal at stores is an assurance of quality and reliability and, unlike much in the ethnic quarters, has the official thumbs up. But it is in those areas where the more interesting buys are likely to be had. Arab Street (Bugis) is lined with shops selling high-quality cottons, silks, velvets and batiks. Otherwise, the only alternative flavours are found at Far East Plaza in Scott’s Road. Little India, on and around Serangoon Road, is another treasure trove of sumptuous textiles, as well as spices, jewellery, handicrafts and cheap Indian CDs. At the far end of Serangoon Road is the Mustafa Centre, a three-storey emporium mainly selling electrical goods at fixed prices. It offers some of the cheapest deals in town, although visitors should check that there is a full warranty. Its popularity means it is usually packed at weekends. Singaporeans go to Sim Lim Square (Bugis) for discount electronic goods; four levels stacked with cameras, computer equipment, pirate CDs, hi-fi and video equipment. Again, visitor should check for valid warranty. Funan The IT Mall (City Hall) is a shopping centre with dozens of computer shops on each floor at competitive prices. Across the road, the Adelphi is the place to spend thousands of dollars on top-of-the-range audio equipment, while nearby Peninsula Plaza is a favourite stop for camera gear. Some of the most exquisite homes of wealthy Singaporeans are adorned with art and antiques from all over Asia – much of which can be purchased in Singapore. The warehouses on Dempsey Road sell Chinese antiques, original and reproduction furniture, while the cool, dimly lit units at Tanglin Shopping Centre (Orchard Road) horde some of Asia’s finest statues, carpets, textiles and antique furniture. For a taste of contemporary Asian art, Art2, at The Substation, Armenian Street, sells works by established as well as up-and-coming local artists. The flea markets around town offer a totally different shopping experience and bargains and novelty items can be found by browsing through a lot of junk. One of the best is at Clarke Quay, 3 River Valley Road, every Sunday 1000-1800. The flea market outside Tanglin Mall, 163 Tanglin Road, is mainly for fashion and open the first and third Saturday of every month, 1700-2300. Thieves Market on and around Sungei Road is open weekends 1100-1800, with a haphazard collection of second-hand novelty items and handicrafts. New shops over the last couple of years include the Manchester United Store at Orchard Parade Hotel; Yves Saint Laurent at the Hilton Shopping Gallery; the Louis Vuiton flagship store and the Cartier flagship store, both at Ngee Ann City; the Mango flagship store at Suntec City; and the Nike Speciality Store at Changi Airport’s Terminal 2. Most stores are open daily about 1000-2100/2200, although boutiques close earlier. All prices include a 3% Goods and Services Tax (GST), which will go up to 5% from 2003. However, this is refundable at Changi Airport’s Global Refund Centre on individual purchases over S$300 or on S$300 made up of several items of a minimum value of S$100. Shoppers need to look out for the Tax Free Shopping logo, complete the Global Refund Shopping cheque and present it with their goods. Money is refunded either through cash, Changi Airport Shopping Vouchers (where 10% will be added) or through direct transfer to a credit card or bankers cheque. Culture Culture and religion remain entwined in Singapore, far more than in the West. Throughout the year, a constant stream of festivals and celebrations in the streets and temples reflect the diverse beliefs and backgrounds of this multicultural society, comprising of Buddhists, Taoists, Muslims, Hindus, Christians and Sikhs. Many of the major Buddhist, Muslim and Hindu festivals are marked by public holidays and Christmas is just one more holiday – for which shops stay open. The Chinese calendar dominates and the Chinese New Year is the biggest festival of all, where everything shuts for several days. The city’s art scene, while mainly conventional, reflects the flavours of the region; Malay, Chinese and Indian performances, art and music are on offer. Mainstream performing arts are also well represented, culminating in the Singapore Arts Festival, held every year in June, which attracts dance, theatre and music groups from all over the world. Andrew Lloyd Webber productions are a favourite. Year-round performances from overseas tend to be heavily oversubscribed and tickets should be booked well in advance. Domestic performers are of a high standard and easier to experience. Free musical and theatrical performances are held regularly in local parks, for example, the Singapore’s Dance Theatre performs Ballet Under the Stars twice a year at Fort Canning Park. Singapore is a good place to view and purchase art from all over Asia, as well as works by local artists. The cultural diversity means that works by local artists cover a broad palette of themes and styles. Notable galleries include the Singapore Art Museum, Bras Basah Road (tel: 6332 3222); Artfolio, Raffles Hotel (tel: 6334 4677); Art2 at The Substation, Armenian Street (tel: 6338 8713); Cicada Gallery of Fine Arts, Ann Siang Road (tel: 6225 6787), and the ground floor of the Ministry of Information, Communication and the Arts, MITA Building, 140 Hill Street (tel: 6270 7988; fax: 6837 9480; e-mail: mita_pa@mita.gov.sg; website: www.mita.gov.sg). For arts and antiques, there is a hub of shopping outlets at the Tanglin Shopping Centre, 19 Tanglin Road. Local newspapers (the biggest English-language paper is the Straits Times) carry lists of events happening each day, as does the online National Arts and Entertainment Calendar (website: www.happening.com.sg). Two free publications to look out for are I-S Magazine and BC. Both have good listings and reviews for exhibitions, dance, art and music. Additional information can be obtained from the National Arts Council (tel: 6746 4622; website: www.nac.gov.sg) or through the Singapore Tourism Board. Tickets can be booked through Sistic (tel: 6348 5555; website: www.sistic.com.sg) or Ticketcharge (tel: 6296 2929; website: www.ticketcharge.com.sg). Music: The Singapore Symphony Orchestra (tel: 6338 4401; website: www.sso.org.sg) gives performances every Friday and Saturday at the Victoria Concert Hall, Empress Place (tel: 6338 6125), as well as open-air concerts. The SSO was founded in 1979 and walks a skilful tightrope between Asian and Western music and has a growing, if still fragile, reputation. There is also the NUS Symphony Orchestra (tel: 6874 2493), which can be found at the NUS Forum and Theatrette. The Singapore Lyric Opera, Waterloo Street (tel: 6336 1929; website: www.singaporeopera.com.sg), usually performs Western classical pieces, occasionally fusion. The Chinese Classical Music play at various different venues and are worth catching, by checking local press for details. Theatre: Local groups are extremely energetic in producing contemporary theatre with an Asian flavour. The usually hidden deep ethnic tensions in Singapore commonly underlie much of the drama and the struggle for freedom of expression is often very palpable. The newest and largest venue for performing arts, The Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay, 1 Esplanade Drive (tel: 6828 8222; fax: 6337 3633; e-mail: corporate@esplanade.com; website: www.esplanade.com.sg), is due to open its doors in October 2002 and promises to be one of the best and largest performing arts centres in Asia. Some of the more prolific theatre companies include: Singapore Repertory Theatre, Cecil Street (tel: 6221 5585; website: www.singrep.com), who showcase at the DBS Arts Centre, 6 Shenton Way; and TheatreWorks (tel: 6338 4077; website: www.theatreworks.org.sg), based at the Black Box in Fort Canning Centre, Cox Terrace Fort, Canning Park. Other theatres include Kallang Theatre, Stadium Walk (tel: 6345 8488; fax: 6344 2340; website: www.sistic.com.sg), and The Substation, 45 Armenian Street, (tel: 6337 7535 or 7800; fax: 6337 2729; website: www.substation.org), which shows modern, experimental drama. Dance: Ecnad Project Ltd (tel: 6226 6772; website: www.ecnad.org), one of the youngest professional performing arts groups, has built a reputation for also being one of the most dynamic and daring. The company is based around the Telok Ayer Performing Arts Centre in Cecil Street. The Singapore Dance Theatre (tel: 6338 0611; fax: 6338 9748; website: www.singaporedancetheatre.com) performs classical dance and ballet and is based at the Fort Canning Centre, Cox Terrace Fort, Canning Park. One of the city’s most popular events is their Ballet Under the Stars, held twice a year at Fort Canning Hill. Film: Cinemas cater purely to popular taste. Mainstream films are highly popular and often sold out, although there is a backlash from those who deplore the censorship allowed through the Film Act of 1981, which bans obscene and pornographic films with a much tighter definition of these than in the West. NETPAC (Network for the Promotion of Asian Cinema) was set up in 1994 as an attempt to involve film-makers, critics, festival organisers and the like in a drive for greater artistic freedom in Singapore’s film industry. There is also an annual Singapore International Film Festival in April, which features documentaries and films from around the globe. Singapore’s main cinema complexes include Cathay – Orchard, 8 Grange Road (tel: 6235 8386); Lido 8 Cineplex, 350 Orchard Road (tel: 6732 4124); United Artists Singapore at Bugis Junction (tel: 6337 9522) and Beach Road (tel: 6391 2550), Suntec City Mall (tel: 6836 9074), and Shaw Towers (tel: 6391 2550). While there are no art cinemas, the Alliance Française, Sarkies Road (tel: 6833 9303), screens mainstream and alternative French films every Tuesday. Cultural events: Singapore’s calendar of annual events is a real mix of ancient and modern, with old, revered ritual pitted against the new and experimental. In January, Hindus celebrate Thaipusam, a time of devotion, penance and thanksgiving; but the sheer volume of dominant Chinese outshines them with their New Year celebrations. The Lunar New Year is the highlight of the Chinese calendar and the streets of Chinatown are lit up in January/February with traditional decorations and fairy lights. After dark, Chinatown becomes a heaving spectacle of the Orient, with hawkers and fortune tellers lining the alleyways as vibrantly coloured dragon and lion dancers parade among the crowds and Chinese opera takes to the streets. The public holiday for Vesak Day, in May, honours the birth, enlightenment and death of Sakyamuni Buddha. Hundreds of caged birds are set free to symbolise the release of captive souls. The annual Singapore Dragon Boat Festival in June sends fishermen in search of the Chinese poet and patriot, Qu Yuan. In celebration of the anniversary of Singaporean Independence, a new anthem is composed every year and played incessantly in the month running up to the National Day Celebration on 9 August. A National Day Parade is held before thousands of spectators. The month-long Festival of the Hungry Ghosts (August-September) is one of the biggest Chinese festivals. According to Taoist belief, the gates of hell are thrown open throughout the seventh month of the lunar year when spirits are allowed to wander the earth. To appease these homeless spirits, sumptuous banquets and ‘wayangs’ (Chinese street operas) are held, candles and joss-sticks are lit in a row in front of Chinese homes and hell currency notes are burnt as offerings. During the Lantern Festival in September, the Chinese Garden becomes a fiesta of light and colour as children and adults pour into the park with their paper lanterns. Also known as the Festival of Lights, Deepavali is a Hindu celebration held in October/November to mark the victory of light over darkness and of good over evil. Little India, especially the Hindu temples of Sri Veerama Kaliamman, Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman and Sri Srinivasa Perumal, is decorated with fairy lights, garlands and colourful arches. Muslims gather for festive shopping for Hari Raya Puasa, to mark the end of Ramadan (the month of fasting), usually in November. However, the society’s younger generation are engaged in an array of performance and theatre arts that continually push the boundaries of this tightly governed island. Take Art, from March to April, is a selection of local and international events with theatre, comedy, art auctions and film. For Art’s Sake!, from September to mid-November, comprises many performing and creative arts festivals. This includes WOMAD, which takes over Fort Canning Park for three days in August; ARTSingapore, which showcases contemporary art from South East Asia, and the Singapore Music Festival. The Singapore Film Festival, usually in April, continues to try and make cultural headway in a heavily censored society, which would rather give its attention to the Great Singapore Sale, the annual shopping bonanza, in July. Literary Notes ‘When in Singapore, feed at Raffles.’ It was a good piece of marketing for the hotel by Rudyard Kipling, who came to Singapore after leaving India in 1889. In fact, Kipling spoke of ‘a place called Raffles Hotel, where the food is as excellent as the rooms are bad’. Raffles has, for more than one hundred years, been fertile writing ground for a number of authors, including Hermann Hesse, Joseph Conrad, Noel Coward, Somerset Maugham and James Michener – and it is in their honour that the Writer’s Bar was named. More than any other writer, Somerset Maugham sought inspiration on several visits to the island beginning in 1921. His short stories of Singaporean colonial life include ‘The Outstation’, ‘Yellow Streak’ and ‘The Casuarina Tree’ (1926). Society was outraged by his portrayal, in The Letter (1927), of the real-life murder of her lover by a rubber planter’s wife. More recently, the success story that is Singapore could be said to be the vision of one man, the island state’s Senior Minister, Lee Kuan Yew, the grandson of a Hakka coolie from China. His memoirs, The Singapore Story (1998), recount the events leading up to Singapore’s Independence, from British colonial rule through Japanese occupation, Communist insurrection, riots, independence and the struggles that followed. Prominent contemporary Singaporean novelists include Hwee Hwee Tan, whose Foreign Bodies: A Novel (1999) tells the story of an authoritarian state in which three rootless friends become implicated in the shady dealings of an international soccer gambling syndicate. A very different Singapore is portrayed in Catherine Lim’s The Bondmaid (1997), set in the 1950s. The novel paints a picture of a Singapore far removed from the developed, modern, cosmopolitan society of today and far more entwined with its Chinese roots, traditions and beliefs. Two popular new books are Got Singapore (2002), a collection of articles and stories by journalist Richard Lim. He depicts his own perception of the changes that accompanied Singapore’s Independence and gives a personal and humorous testimony about life from the 1960s to the 1980s. Neil Humphreys gives a slightly different angle in Notes from an Even Smaller Island (2002), dissecting the culture and lifestyle of Singapore from an ex-pat’s viewpoint. Nightlife After-hours drinking and dancing is not as diverse as in many big cities around the world – the range tends to be upmarket, trendy bars and clubs or alternatively karaoke lounges. There is little room for an alternative music scene but the range of clubs and hotel bars are popular, especially at weekends. The bars in the major hotels along Orchard Road are a good bet for a refined drink or even to meet clients. Locals who can’t afford the high prices of such places are happy to drink beer in some of the all-night hawker centres or food streets. Certain areas and venues are popular with wealthier foreign workers and tourists. Boat Quay is filled with tourists; a string of shop-houses converted into noisy bars and restaurants overlook the river and passers-by are enticed in with happy-hour drinks. One of the best known places is Harry’s Bar, a favourite haunt of Baring’s Bank fraudster Nick Leeson (and other wealthy ex-pats) with live jazz and jamming sessions most evenings. The East Coast bars are also renowned as something of an ex-pat enclave, while a more ‘creative’ clientele hangs out in Tanjong Pagar and Club Street, where many of Singapore’s advertising and PR agencies are based. There is also a clubbing centre along Mohammed Sultan Road for trendy locals and Chijmes has plenty of places for eating and drinking. The clubs and bars on and around Orchard Road are popular with locals and tourists, while Emerald Hill, lined with Singapore’s most exquisitely converted shop-houses, has a great selection of lively pubs, cosy wine bars and beer taverns. Further to the west, Holland Village is eternally busy, with younger Singaporeans filling its wine bars and retro coffee lounges. Most clubs are open 2200-0100 Sunday to Thursday and 2200-0300 Friday and Saturday. Dress code is generally smart-casual and the minimum age limit for drinking alcohol is 18 years, although some clubs won’t let in anyone under 23. There is normally a cover charge, especially at weekends, usually around S$25 for the more trendy places. Bars: Singapore has a bar to cater for every taste, from the refined colonial grandeur of Raffles Hotel’s Bar & Billiard and the Long Bar, to the live music at Muddy Murphy’s Irish Pub, opposite Orchard Towers, Orchard Hotel Shopping Arcade, 442 Orchard Road. The 19th-century Peranakan shop-houses on Emerald Hill contain a good cluster of bars. These include No. 5, 5 Emerald Hill, Ice Cold Beer, 9 Emerald Hill, and Que Pasa, the city’s oldest wine bar, 7 Emerald Hill. The Alley Bar, 2 Emerald Hill, is a stylish new addition and, as its name suggests, is converted from the narrow space between shop-houses. Opium, Empress Place Waterfront, near the Fullerton Hotel and next to Indochine (see Restaurants), is a fashionable new bar on the waterfront, with tables and huge sofas for alfresco drinking. Altivo Bar, 109 Mount Faber Road, sits on top of Mount Faber, good on a hot evening with a club, chill-out area and bar catering to a fairly hip crowd. Duxton Road has lots of small bars, many with karaoke lounges, such as JJ Mahoney, 58 Duxton Road, which has three floors featuring on first a DJ, on second games and English karaoke on the third floor. Casinos: Casinos and all other gambling activities are illegal in Singapore. The only legal alternatives are various lotteries and on-course betting on horseraces at Singapore Turf Club (see Sport). Clubs: Still going strong is Zouk, Jiak Kim Street, one of the best-known clubs in town, and good enough to attract famous foreign DJs (Fat Boy Slim played there in May 2002). It is also home to other clubs within its walls: Velvet Underground, which attracts a more mature crowd and offers a mellower brand of hip; Phuture and the Wine Bar. The place of the moment is The Gallery Evanson Hotel on Orchard Road, within which is Orb, a spacious, two-storey bar playing laidback sounds. Centro 360, at One Fullerton, is a super-hip huge venue, with gay nights on Sunday. The Liquid Room, at the G@llery Hotel, is a dimly lit, retro-style bar on the ground floor, with a large alfresco area and huge dance floor upstairs. Bar None, in the basement of the Singapore Marriott Hotel, has a small dance floor, often has live music and is packed at weekends. Karaoke: As in the rest of Asia, karaoke remains an inordinately popular evening’s entertainment. Sparks, 7th Floor, Tower B, Ngee Ann City, is South East Asia’s largest nightspot with 18 karaoke rooms. At the Lava Lounge, Grange Road, you can sing along against the backdrop of its 70s space age disco lounge and retro music. There are plenty of other karaoke bars off Smith Street in Chinatown and along Duxton Road. Live music: The infamous Harry’s Bar, Boat Quay, features a live jazz band and jam session Tues-Sun nights with pot luck on Mondays, while at Crazy Elephant, further along on Clarke Quay, rhythm and blues bands alternate with classic rock’n’roll and alternative underground music daily. Overseas jazz musicians are hosted at Somerset’s Bar at the Westin Stamford Hotel. The Hard Rock Café, Cuscadem Road, features the Malay reggae band Bushmen, every Sunday night. City Statistics Location: Singapore state, South East Asia. Country dialling code: 65; but note no city code, just 8 digits to follow. Population: 3,300,000 (city). Ethnic mix: 77% Chinese, 14% Malay, 7.9% Indian, 1.4% other. Religion: 42.5% Buddhist (Chinese), 8.5% Tao, 14.9% Islam, 14.6% Christian, 4.1% Hindu, 0.6% other, 14.8% no religion. Time zone: GMT + 8. Electricity: 220-240 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs, or two-pin with adapter. Average January temp: 26ºC (79ºF). Average July temp: 29ºC (84ºF). Average humidity: 84.3%. Annual rainfall: 2792mm (108.5 inches); rainy season Dec-Mar and Jun-Sep. Special Events Lunar New Year Light-Up, colourful display to celebrate the Lunar New Year, 11 Jan-15 Feb 2003, Chinatown Ponggol, Hindu harvest festival, 14 Jan, throughout the city Chinese New Year, the biggest cultural event on the calendar, 1-2 Feb, Chinatown and various other venues Hari Raya Haji, celebrating the return of the pilgrims from Mecca, 12 Feb, various venues Take Art!, local and international events comprising many other festivals, 1 Mar-30 Apr, various venues Singapore Food Festival, 28 Mar-30 Apr, various venues Qing Ming Festival, Chinese community gives thanks to the ancestors with prayers and gifts, 5 Apr, various venues Labour Day, public holiday, 1 May, throughout the city Vesak Day, monks commemorate the Lord Buddha’s entry into Nirvana by chanting holy sutras and freeing captive birds, 15 May, all Buddhist temples Singapore Arts Festival, eclectic mix of dance, music and drama from around the globe, 31 May-24 Jun, various venues Great Singapore Sale, annual shopping bonanza with prices slashed, late May-Jul, Orchard Road and various venues Singapore Dragon Boat Festival, fishermen go in search of the Chinese poet and patriot, Qu Yuan, mid-Jun, various venues National Day Celebrations, annual parade celebrating the nation’s birthday, 9 Aug, National Stadium and various other venues Festival of the Hungry Ghost, Taoist tradition of streets banquets and operas to entertain and appease homeless spirits, late Aug-early Sep, throughout the city Lantern Festival, late Aug-Sep, Chinese Garden SeptFest, contemporary arts festival, featuring dance, theatre, film and visual arts, throughout Sep, The Substation For Art’s Sake!, international performers, including the grand opening of Esplanade on 12 Oct, Sep-mid-Nov, various venues International Guitar Festival, early Sep, Singapore Conference Hall and Alliance Francaise Mooncake Festival, rejoicing and feasting on mooncakes filled with lotus paste, melon seeds, red bean paste, nuts, yam and duck eggs to celebrate the year’s fullest moon, late Sep, Chinatown and various locations Birthday of the Monkey God, dramatic and loud procession honouring the hirsute deity, late Sep, Temple of the Monkey God, Seng Poh Road ARTSingapore, world’s first fair for Asian contemporary art, late Sep-early Oct, Suntec City Nine Emperor Gods Festival, images of the nine gods paraded in sedan chairs, early-mid-Oct, Nine Emperor Gods Temple Pilgrimage to Kusu Island, annual Toaist pilgrimage, early Oct-early Nov, to Pekong Temple on Kusu Island Deepavali Light-Up, annual celebration features a three-week festival village in Campbell Lane, mid-Oct-early Nov, Little India Moving Images – Singapore Short Film Festival, Nov-Dec, Guinness Theatre, The Substation Hari Raya Light-Up, lights go on as Muslim families celebrate the end of Ramadan in colourful fashion, Nov-mid-Dec, Geylang Serai Asia Cup Badminton championship, early Dec, Indoor Stadium Singapore International Marathon, early Dec, starts National Stadium Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: S$1.50 33cl bottle of beer: S$3 Financial Times newspaper: S$4 36-exposure colour film: S$5.20 City-centre bus ticket: S$0.70-1.40 Average round of golf: S$120 Three-course restaurant meal with wine/beer: S$45 1 Singapore Dollar (S$1) = £0.36; US$0.58; C$0.86; A$0.95; €0.53 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.