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Shopping Ten years since the end of Communism, the lack of colour associated with shopping in former Eastern Bloc countries can still be felt. However, Sofia is gradually smartening itself up to become more consumer orientated. Many of the big Western names in clothes, shoes, cosmetics and electronic goods are now represented and prices are on a par with those elsewhere in the West, with some reasonably good imitations at considerably cheaper prices. Bulgarian products, such as textiles, wood, ceramic and leather goods, still offer value for money but can be difficult to find. The main shopping areas centre on Vitosha Boulevard, Graf Ignatiev Ulica and Rakovski Ulica. Following a costly facelift, TsUM, on the Largo, has cast off its former image as a drab department store and now operates as a Western-style shopping mall, with privately rented boutiques and cafés on three levels. There are also crèche facilities. The Tsentralni Hali (Central Food Halls), on Maria Louiza Boulevard have been refurbished to form a spotlessly clean and well-organised bazaar and are open daily 0700-2400 (see Key Attractions). Pirotski has been repaved and pedestrianised to link the Tsentralni Hali to Zhenski Pazar (Women’s Market), open daily 0900-1800. Situated on Stefan Stambolov Boulevard, Zhenski Pazar is a truly down-to-earth market (see Further Distractions). Souvenirs, such as reproduction icons, Russian dolls, jewellery, ceramics, wooden items, embroidered tablecloths and lace are for sale at stalls in front of Alexander Nevski church. The Bulgarian Union of Artists, 6 Shipka Ulica, offers arts and crafts pieces at reasonable prices. Delta Trading, within the TsUM complex, is a good place for handmade Bulgarian kilim rugs, while CDs and tapes of Bulgarian music can be found at the stalls in the underpass below the NDK. Also worth investigating for souvenirs are the shops in the subway between TsUM and the Balkan Sheraton. There is a large book market at Ploshtad Slavejkov, near the National Theatre and Rakviski Ulica, where black market copies of software packages and the latest international CDs can be purchased, as well as cut-price books of touristic interest. Luxury goods to take home include Bulgarian wines, notably the full-bodied red, Melnik, and rakiya – favourites being grozdova made from grapes and slivova from plum. Another national tipple is mastika, an anis-flavoured drink that is similar to Greek ouzo. These are available in shops throughout town. Finally, for essentials such as bread, milk and basic toiletries, the Shell Select Shops and Fantastico chain stores are open 24 hours. Two large supermarket chains are the Austrian Billa, Bulgaria Boulevard, and a huge new Turkish Ramstore, at the far end of Stambolijski Boulevard, accessible by tram. Most shops are open either 0900-1830 or 1000-1900 on weekdays and until 1300 on Saturday. Some private shops are also open on Saturday afternoon and even Sunday. VAT in Bulgaria is 22% and visitors are unable, as yet, to obtain a VAT refund. |
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