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_City Overview Celebrated as the ‘Queen of the Pacific Rim’, vast, vibrant Sydney is home to one of the world’s most beautiful harbours, with the imposing Opera House as the jewel in its crown. The State capital of New South Wales, Sydney is a thriving centre for both business and the arts and, as with everything in Sydney, its landscape is larger than life. The city has all the cosmopolitan amenities – top shopping, excellent restaurants and buzzing nightlife – and visitors often find similarities with San Francisco. Carved between the mountains and the sea, the city offers the ultimate in the great outdoors. The Pacific Ocean swells onto golden beaches, while a seasonally shifting palette of colours unfolds further inland, over the Blue Mountains. In addition to the harbour, famously adorned with sailing boats that mirror the distinctive curves of the Opera House, there are numerous inland waterways and national parks. From its sordid beginnings as a British penal colony in 1788, Sydney rapidly flourished, establishing booming trade links and witnessing large-scale development throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. The Sydney Opera House – a feat of avant-garde architectural vision – epitomises the city’s desire to lead the New World into the 21st century. Sydney’s architecture is a stunning melange, with little Victorian structures nestling below towering concrete, steel and glass skyscrapers. All the exuberance and plate-glass sophistication nonetheless fail to compensate for a certain competitive edginess in the city’s psyche. After the Australian Federation was created in 1901, the traditional bickering between Sydney and its arch rival, Melbourne, was settled in 1908, by making Canberra the new national capital. However, until 1927, when the city of Canberra was completed, Melbourne remained the seat of national government. Nevertheless, Sydneysiders insist that their city remains the ‘true’ capital of Australia and indeed, with a triumphant hosting of the 2000 Olympic Games, the world might even think it. But the rivalry with Melbourne persists – a rivalry based more on style than on stature for, while Sydney is decidedly Anglo in its ethnic orientation, Melbourne is more continental, with a much more tangibly imported culture. Australia’s white history has eclipsed its indigenous inheritance and, although Sydney has the highest Aboriginal population of any Australian city, a stroll around the city’s streets offers little evidence that it has anything other than a white (and perhaps, latterly, an Asian) heritage. While museums, galleries, theatre and dance troupes pay tribute to the archaeological and cultural legacy of indigenous culture, Aborigines in the city remain very much an invisible minority. With the Olympics, Sydney came of age as one of the world’s great cities. The Games’ smooth running has been attributed to the thousands of local volunteers, whose helpful, welcoming attitude revealed – much to Sydney’s own surprise – that beneath its somewhat vain and pretentious surface, there still exists a bedrock of traditional Australian virtues. But the Games did more than affect the city’s mindset; they transformed its physical appearance. Streets and public areas were remodelled, long-neglected eyesores were removed and new street furniture erected, resulting in a city centre that is more pleasant and easier to navigate than it has ever been. Combine that with semi-tropical summers and mild winters and the result is an excellent city to visit at any time of the year. Getting There By Air Sydney (Kingsford Smith) Airport (SYD) Tel: (02) 9667 9111. Fax: (02) 9667 1592. Website: www.sydneyairport.com.au Situated on the northern shoreline of Botany Bay, Sydney Airport is Australia’s premier gateway, handling 23.2 million passengers a year and flights from 48 international, domestic and regional airlines. Major airlines: Qantas (tel: 131 313, Australia only; website: www.qantas.com.au) is the national airline. Other major airlines include: Air China, Air New Zealand, Alitalia, All Nippon Airways, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Garuda, Gulf Air, Japan Airlines, Korean Air, Malaysia Airlines, Philippine Airlines, Singapore Airlines, South African Airways, Thai International, United Airlines and Virgin Blue. Approximate flight times to Sydney: From London is 20 hours 10 minutes; from New York is 20 hours 25 minutes; from Los Angeles is 14 hours 40 minutes and from Toronto is 19 hours 30 minutes. Airport facilities: Sydney Airport is well equipped with restaurants, cafés and a food hall, as well as information desks, lockers, a health care centre, money changing facilities, prayer room, showers and smoking room. There are hotel reservation facilities and car hire operators Avis, Budget, Hertz and Thrifty. Business facilities: Post and fax facilities are available at the Australia Post Office, while e-mail and Internet connections can be found at the Airport Bar. There are also seven airline lounges located in the international terminal. Departure tax: The departure tax of A$38 and a noise tax of A$3.58 are included in the price of the ticket. Transport to the city: The Airport Express bus (tel: 131 500, Australia only) operates 0630-2000 with services every 20 minutes to the city centre and Kings Cross via Central Station (journey time – 30 minutes). Fares are A$12 return or A$7 one way. The CityRail Airport Link (tel: 131 500, website: www.cityrail.nsw.gov.au) operates every eight minutes to and from Central Station, daily 0530-2400 (journey time – 10 minutes). Fares are A$15.80 return or A$10.40 one way. Taxis to the city centre cost A$22-30. Getting There By Water Passenger services dock at Darling Harbour Passenger Terminal, just minutes from the city centre, while cruise ships berth at the Sydney Cove Passenger Terminal, Circular Quay. There are no facilities at the terminals, however, the nearby Rocks and Darling Harbour both have restaurants, ATM machines and other conveniences. Information is available from the Department of Shipping (tel: (02) 9296 4999; fax: (02) 9296 4742; website: www.sydneyports.com.au). Ferry services: There is probably no more dramatic way to arrive in Sydney than by water. However, services to Australia are limited. From Europe, the USA and Hong Kong, P&O (tel: 132 469, Australia only) and Cunard (tel: (02) 9250 6666) include Sydney on their itineraries. Transport to the city: There are frequent bus, ferry and CityRail connections from both Circular Quay and Darling Harbour. Getting There By Road Driving regulations are not uniform across Australia’s states and territories, so visitors should be aware that the laws in Sydney may differ from states outside New South Wales. Driving in Australia is on the left and the speed limit outside built-up areas is generally 100kph (62mph) or 110kph (68.2mph) on freeways. In built-up areas, the speed limit is 60kph (37.2mph) unless otherwise indicated. Wearing of seatbelts is compulsory in the front and rear. Roads are usually known by their names – for example, the Hume Highway – although motorways are also identified by a corresponding number. The legal driving age in New South Wales is 16 years. Overseas driving licences are acceptable, although an International Driving Permit is preferred. Licences must be carried when driving. Visitors are required to take out minimum third-party insurance for driving both their own cars and hire cars. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.05%, which is enforced with random breath tests and curbed by severe penalties. Visitors who plan to drive in the more remote outback areas should contact one of Australia’s motoring organisations beforehand, to obtain maps and advice on road and weather conditions, supply points and spare parts to be carried, as these regions are occasionally affected by excessively wet or dry weather. The Australian Automobile Association (tel: (02) 6247 7311; fax: (02) 6257 5320; website: www.aaa.asn.au) provides further information. Emergency breakdown service: NRMA Emergency Breakdown 131 111 Routes to the city: The main routes into Sydney are the Hume Highway (heading northeast from Melbourne), the Pacific Highway (south from Brisbane), the scenic Princes Highway (north from Melbourne via the coast) and the Sturt Highway (linking Adelaide on the west coast to Sydney on the east coast). Approximate driving times to Sydney: From Melbourne – 11 hours; Brisbane – 13 hours 30 minutes; Adelaide – 18 hours. Coach services: Operators include Greyhound Pioneer (tel: 132 030, Australia only; website: www.greyhound.com.au) and McCafferty’s (tel: 131 499, Australia only; website: www.mccaffertys.com.au), offering routes to many destinations throughout the country, including Brisbane, Canberra, Adelaide and Melbourne. Buses depart from Sydney Coach Terminal (tel: (02) 9281 9366), Eddy Avenue, outside Central Station. Getting There By Rail The New South Wales rail network is run by Countrylink (tel: 132 232, Australia only; website: www.countrylink.nsw.gov.au). They provide high-speed XPT trains and XPlorer trains for shorter distances. These trains are new, modern and comfortable, featuring air conditioning, wheelchair access, buffet, toilets and satellite telephones. Large windows make any journey a memorable one. The seats are modelled on the French TGV and there is one sleeping car per journey, with cabins equipped with private bathrooms. Rail travel tends to be expensive, although a number of rail passes are available to visitors from overseas. National rail enquiries should be directed to Countrylink. Sydney’s Central Station is located on Eddy Avenue, just south of the city centre. The grand old building is lined with newsagents, coffee shops and restaurants, as well as transport and tourist information offices. Rail services: Popular inter-state destinations include Melbourne (journey time – 10 hours), Brisbane (journey time – 12.5 hours), Adelaide (journey time – 26 hours) and Perth (journey time – 64 hours). Transport to the city: Central Station directly connects to the CityRail metro line. Getting Around Public Transport Sydney’s mass transit system, incorporating bus, ferry and various rail services, is well developed, efficient and cheap. The State Transit Infoline (tel: 131 500, Australia only; website: www.131500.com.au) provides route, timetable and fare information for all buses, ferries and trains. State Transit (e-mail: info@sydneybuses.nsw.gov.au; website: www.sydneybuses.nsw.gov.au) operates the buses and the ferries. Buses run daily 0600-2400 and night buses operate on selected routes. Fare starts at A$1.50 for inner-city journeys and is purchased from the driver. The commuter ferry network that crisscrosses Sydney Harbour is one of the best ways to see the harbour. Ferries ply between Circular Quay and almost 30 destinations (0600-2330). Fares start at A$4.20. CityRail (website: www.cityrail.nsw.gov.au) operates the network of trains designed primarily for rapid transit between the suburbs and the city. The stops are not necessarily very convenient for tourists within the city centre. Trains generally operate 0430-2400 and fares start at A$2.20. Sydney Metro (tel: (02) 9285 5600; website: www.metrolightrail.com.au) operates the monorail and light rail services. The monorail shuttles between the city centre, Darling Harbour and the Chinatown areas. Trains operate every three to five minutes Monday-Thursday 0700-2200, Friday-Saturday 0700-2400 and Sunday 0800-2200. Fares are A$4. The light rail service operates 24 hours between Central Station and Star City and Sunday-Thursday 0600-2300 and Friday-Saturday 0600-2400 between Central Station and Lilyfield. Fares start at A$2.50. Numerous money-saving passes are available, including the SydneyPass, a three-, five- or seven-day pass costing A$90, A$120 and A$140 respectively. This pass allows unlimited travel on public buses, harbour ferries, the Airport Express bus, the Sydney Explorer, the Bondi & Bay Explorer and the Parramatta Explorer buses, as well as the three sightseeing cruises operated by the State Transit authority and train travel within the red (city and inner suburban) travel pass zone. Passes can be purchased from the New South Wales Travel Centre, at the international airport, and from the Sydney Visitor Centre, 106 George Street, The Rocks. The colour-coded TravelPass, valid for one week or more, allows unlimited travel on public transport within a designated area. A weekly blue bus and ferry TravelPass, for example, costs A$26. A Travelten bus pass is valid for ten bus journeys and starts at A$11. A FerryTen ticket is valid for ten ferry trips and starts at A$26.30. All tickets and passes can be purchased from the railway and bus stations and from newspaper stands on bus routes. Taxis Taxi ranks can be found outside most bus and railway stations, as well as the larger hotels. The initial charge is A$2.45 and a three-kilometre (1.9-mile) trip costs about A$7. Fares are subject to surcharges for telephone bookings, crossing the Harbour Bridge and using certain parts of the Eastern Distributor, where toll systems operate. Travel between 2200 and 0600 costs an extra 20%. Taxi drivers do not expect a tip, although fares are generally rounded up to the nearest Dollar. Operators include Taxis Combined Services (tel: (02) 8332 8888) and Premier Cabs (tel: 131 017, Australia only). Limousines Chauffeur-driven limousines are available for trips around Sydney, with an optional commentary. Operators include First National Limousines (tel: (02) 9822 8007), Premier Limousines (tel: (02) 9313 4277) and Astra Chauffeured Limousines of Australia (tel: 132 121, Australia only). Collection from the airport to the city costs from A$66. Driving in the City Driving around Sydney was, until recently, a trying experience. The construction of a new road network for the 2000 Olympics has left many routes vastly improved. The new Eastern Distributor tunnel, for instance, has made driving to the Airport a breeze. However, Sydney drivers are renowned for speed and intolerance and parking is invariably difficult and/or expensive. Parking restrictions are clearly signposted and usually specify an hour or two of metered parking during business hours. There are ‘clearway’ zones that apply at certain times of day and vehicles will be towed away and impounded if they are found parked there during those times. It is probably easiest for visitors to park in one of the car parks around the city centre and take public transport from there. A convenient central car park is the Queen Victoria Building (QVB) Car Park in York Street. Metered parking generally costs A$2.20 per hour, while parking stations in the city can charge up to A$50 per day on weekdays. Car Hire A national driving licence printed in English is required for driving in Sydney, although an International Driving Permit is preferred by some hire firms. The minimum age for hiring a car is often 25 years. Minimum third-party insurance is required. Hire rates for a small car start from approximately A$62 per day. Major operators include Avis (tel: 136 333, Australia only; website: www.avis.com.au), Budget (tel: 132 727, Australia only; website: www.budget.com.au), Hertz (tel: 133 039, Australia only; website: www.hertz.com.au) and Thrifty (tel: (1300) 367 277; website: www.thrifty.com.au). Bicycle Hire Sydney’s many steep hills do not make for a leisurely ride and there are limited – and often dangerous – designated cycle lanes. Manly has better paths for cycling but best of all is the popular Centennial Park. Major hire companies include Woolys Wheels, 82 Oxford Street, Paddington (tel: (02) 9331 8190) and Inner City Cycles, 151 Glebe Point Road (tel: (02) 9660 6605). Hire rates start from about A$33 for 24 hours. Business Business Profile Thanks to the Olympics, Sydney’s tourism soared in 2000, generating revenue from tourism-related businesses across the board to the tune of an estimated seven billion Australian Dollars. The publicity that Sydney as a tourist destination has received as a result of the Games has been valued at more than A$600 million. The event undoubtedly helped boost Sydney’s profile in the corporate world and the city is now seen as a genuine contender with Singapore and Hong Kong as a financial hub in the Asia-Pacific region. The Olympics, together with a falling Australian Dollar, also contributed to a 26% rise in Australian exports. Between 1994 and 2001, Sydney’s economic growth rate exceeded 5%. But the news for Sydney is not all good. The completion of Olympic projects and the introduction of the GST on 1 July 2000 brought the artificial boom in construction to a halt. Builders rushed to complete their projects before its introduction, to avoid the 10% increases in costs and, once these projects were completed, many companies disbanded. This contributed to rises in the city’s unemployment rate – it was 5.2% in March 2001 as opposed to 4% in 1999. However, this is still low compared to the national rate of 6.8%. Sydney does, however, play a major part in Australia’s economy, accounting for over 25% of Australia’s total economic activity. The city is Australia’s undisputed financial centre, with 65% of Australia’s finance industry located here, including the Reserve Bank, the Australian Stock Exchange and the Sydney Futures Exchange. The strong economic mix encompasses services, manufacturing and mining – with financial, property and retail services together accounting for over 80% of total economic output. Multinationals with Asian-Pacific headquarters here include 3M, American Express, AMP, Boral Ltd, BT, Coca-Cola Amatil, Compuserve, HJ Heinz, IBM, Microsoft, News Corporation, Mastercard, Price Waterhouse Coopers, TNT Ltd and Unilever. Of the nation’s top 100 companies, 60% have headquarters in Sydney. The financial district is centred on Martin Place in the city centre. North Sydney, on the other side of the harbour, is a bustling high-rise business district in itself. Business Etiquette In keeping with its distinctly work-hard, play-hard culture, the protocol in Sydney is typically informal. During the week, business is often conducted over a long lunch, with alcohol included, and the weekend can start as early as Friday lunchtime. Both men and women usually wear suits and in the summer months businessmen will be spotted in suit shorts and short-sleeved shirts, with or without a tie. Business hours are officially weekdays, 0900-1700, although an extended working day is very common in certain sectors and it is not unusual for people to be working well into the night or over the weekend. Australians are a very friendly people and socialising comes easily. Nevertheless, there are a few things that may offend or annoy. The first is the use of the informal ‘G’day’ – foreigners should avoid trying to emulate this overused greeting. The second is that, while out drinking, a system of ‘rounds’ is observed and it is not appreciated when someone skips his/her round by not offering to pay. Gift giving is not a common practise, although a small token – such as chocolate, wine or flowers – is appropriate if invited to a home. If at a loss for conversation topics, sport is always good. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Who can argue with the claim that Sydney has the most magnificent harbour in the world? Millions of years ago it was a drowned river valley. Today its intricate coastal geography of headlands and secluded bays is the stunning setting for two of the modern world’s most ambitious architectural achievements – the Sydney Opera House and the Sydney Harbour Bridge. It is therefore hardly surprising that much tourist attention is focused on the harbour, with the revived cobbled quaintness of The Rocks, the perpetual motion of people arriving and departing Circular Quay and the enduring awe that visitors experience at the steps of the Opera House. But behind these modern monoliths, there is a wealth of history, culture and tradition. In inner-city Sydney, Macquarie Place and Macquarie Street are characterised by their imposing Victorian banking chambers and municipal buildings, while further afield, the areas of Kings Cross, Darlinghurst and Paddington are thriving cosmopolitan communities, each with their own distinct character. Kings Cross, renowned more for its red light district, has a bustling café society, while Darlinghurst comes alive every March for the world-famous Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras Parade. Paddington has a more genteel feel, with its fashionable restaurants, galleries, antique shops and restored Victorian terraces complete with wrought-iron lace verandahs. Tourist Information Sydney Visitor Centre 106 George Street, The Rocks Tel: (02) 9255 1788 or 132 077, visitor information line Australia only. Fax: (02) 9241 5010. E-mail: visitorinformation@shfa.nsw.gov.au Website: www.sydneyvisitorcentre.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Passes The Sydney Bonus Pass incorporates entry to Sydney Aquarium, the observation deck at Sydney Tower and a Captain Cook Coffee Cruise from Circular Quay. Tickets are available from any of these attractions and cost A$59. The Super Ticket, costing A$48, covers Darling Harbour attractions including Matilda Harbour Express cruise, entry to the Chinese Garden, travel on the monorail, a meal at the Shark Bite Café, entry to the Sydney Aquarium and discounts at the Powerhouse Museum, Panasonic IMAX Theatre and the People Mover. The Super Ticket is available for purchase at participating attractions. Combined ferry/attraction admission passes are available from the Sydney Ferries ticket office at Circular Quay or from the ticket offices of various attractions, including Taronga Zoo and Sydney Aquarium. For example, the A$27.20 Zoo Pass includes return ferry and bus transport to Taronga Zoo, entry to the zoo and an aerial cable ride. Key Attractions Sydney Opera House Few architectural feats match that of the Sydney Opera House. The roofs are the remaining legacy of Danish architect Jørn Utzon, who left the project halfway through its protracted 14-year genesis and has never seen the completed building. Subsequent architects took up the challenge of designing the complex of auditoria, theatres, restaurants and bars, which finally opened in 1973. The four main auditoria – the Concert Hall, the Playhouse, the Opera Theatre and the Drama Theatre – stage a total of 3000 performances per year. Bennelong Point Tel: (02) 9250 7111 or (02) 9250 7250 (tours). Fax: (02) 9251 3843. E-mail: infodesk@sydneyoperahouse.com Website: www.sydneyoperahouse.com Transport: CityRail/ferry Circular Quay; bus 324, 325 or 438. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-2030 (box office), plus two hours before Sun show; daily 0830-1700 (tours). Admission: Free; A$16.20 (front-of-house tour). Sydney Harbour Bridge Not to be outdone by the imposing grandeur of the Opera House, the Sydney Harbour Bridge is, in its own right, a feat of engineering genius. Affectionately known as ‘the Coathanger’, it took 1400 workers (16 of whom were killed in the process) eight years to complete the bridge, which opened in 1932. If the views from the Pylon Lookout across Sydney Harbour and over the Opera House are not spectacular enough, the Bridge Climb gives thrill-seekers the chance to walk to the top of the 50-storey-high bridge – over the cars and trains rumbling across the deck below – and down the other side. Paul ‘Crocodile Dundee’ Hogan, a bridge-painter in a former lifetime, was one of the first to climb the bridge. Pylon Museum and Lookout Access from stairs via Cumberland Street Tel: (02) 8274 7777. Fax: (02) 9241 2151. Website: www.pylonlookout.com.au Transport: CityRail/ferry Circular Quay. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission: A$5; concessions available. Bridge Climb 5 Cumberland Street Tel: (02) 8274 7777. Fax: (02) 9240 1122. Website: www.bridgeclimb.com Transport: CityRail/ferry Circular Quay. Opening hours: Daily 0700-1900. Admission: A$130-180; concessions available. The Rocks Nestled at the foot of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, The Rocks – Sydney’s historical birthplace – is a neighbourhood of winding streets, sandstone cottages and some of Sydney’s oldest pubs. The site of the first landing from Plymouth (England) in 1788, the area is now a busy tourist enclave, with cafés, restaurants, galleries, museums and countless souvenir shops. Among the district’s historic buildings are the Hero of Waterloo inn, built over a tunnel originally used for smuggling, the Sydney Observatory, on the site of the colony’s first windmill, Cadman’s Cottage, Sydney’s oldest building, built in 1816, the Museum of Contemporary Art, Merchants’ House, Garrison Church and Susannah Place. The Rocks, Sydney Harbour Transport: CityRail/ferry Circular Quay. Museum of Contemporary Art 140 George Street Tel: (02) 9241 5892 or 9252 4033/4361. Website: www.mca.com.au Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission: Free. Sydney Observatory Watson Road, Observatory Hill Tel: (02) 9217 0485. Fax: (02) 9217 0489. Website: www.phm.gov.au/observe Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission: Free; A$10 (night tour). Cadman’s Cottage 110 George Street Tel: (02) 9247 8861. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1630. Opening hours: Free. Susannah Place 58-64 Gloucester Street Tel: (02) 9241 1893. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Admission: Free. Garrison Church Corner of Argyle Street and Lower Fort Street, Millers Point Tel: (02) 9247-2664 Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700. Admission: Free. Darling Harbour A former dockside area, this small harbour has been transformed into a major tourist site, appealing predominantly to children. The vast, paved and landscaped recreation ground is packed with restaurants and shops, as well as a number of tourist attractions. These include the Powerhouse Museum, Australian National Maritime Museum, Sydney Aquarium, Sega World, Panasonic IMAX Theatre and the Chinese Garden of Friendship, a gift to Sydney from its Chinese sister city of Guangdong. Most of the restaurants are concentrated in Cockle Bay Wharf, on the city side of Darling Harbour, with its mix of budget outdoor eating and gourmet dining. Darling Harbour Website: www.darlingharbour.com Transport: CityRail Town Hall; monorail Darling Park or Harbourside; ferry Darling Harbour. Powerhouse Museum 500 Harris Street Tel: (02) 9217 0111. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission: A$8; concessions available. Australian National Maritime Museum 2 Murray Street Tel: (02) 9552 7777. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700. Admission: A$9; concessions available. Sydney Aquarium Aquarium Pier Tel: (02) 9262-2300. Opening hours: Daily 0930-2200. Admission: A$18.90 for adults (includes return ferry journey to Circular Quay). Sega World 1-25 Harbour Street Tel: (02) 9273-9273. Opening hours: Mon-Thurs and Sun 1100-2000, Fri-Sat 1100-2200, Sun 1000-2000. Admission: US$28; children free; concessions available Panasonic IMAX Theatre Tel: (02) 9281-3300 Opening hours: Daily 1000-2200. Admission: A$13.95; concessions available. Chinese Garden of Friendship Tel: (02) 9281-6263. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1730, Sat-Sun 0930-1800. Admission: A$4. Bondi Beach Whatever its reputation, Bondi remains one of the world’s most perfect beaches, a white crescent of sand strung between two rocky headlands, just 15 minutes from the city centre. The waterfront scene, with its street musicians, surf shops, discos and clubs is ideal for a summer evening’s prowl or a lazy saunter past Campbell Parade’s restaurants, cafés and Sunday markets. Swimmers should stick to the patrolled areas of North Bondi or Bondi Baths on the southern rocks. The coastal walk takes in the whole gamut of beach cultures, from the wild surf and gleaming bodies at Tamarama (aka Glamourama) to the palm-fringed views of Bronte and the soothing sea pools at Coogee. Campbell Parade, off Bondi Road Website: www.voyeurmagic.com.au Transport: Bus 380, 382 or L82; CityRail Bondi Junction and then bus 380; ferry from Circular Quay to Rose Bay and then bus 380. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. Art Gallery of New South Wales Featuring the Yiribana Gallery, the world’s largest permanent exhibition of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art, the Art Gallery of New South Wales is one of Australia’s foremost art museums. Among its most impressive exhibitions is its Australian art collection, extending from the early colonial period to the mid-20th century, with sculpture and painting exhibited together. Shortlisted portraits in the Archibald Prize – Australia’s most prestigious art award – are exhibited here annually. Art Gallery Road, The Domain Tel: (02) 9225 1700. Fax: (02) 9221 6226. Website: www.artgallery.nsw.gov.au Transport: CityRail Martin Place/St James; bus 441. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission: Free; some special exhibitions charge entrance. Sydney Tower Standing 305m (1000ft) above Centrepoint, Sydney Tower is Sydney’s tallest building, with views over the city, the Harbour, the Olympic Park and as far as Terrigal Beach, 100km (62 miles) to the north. Entry to the observation deck includes the Skytour, a 35-minute virtual tour/ride on the podium level. 100 Market Street Tel: (02) 9223 0933. Fax: (02) 9223 0233. Website: www.skytour.co.au Transport: CityRail St James/Town Hall; monorail City Centre. Opening hours: Sun-Fri 0900-2145, Sat 0900-2245. Admission: A$19.80; concessions available. Royal Botanic Gardens Just a short walk from the Opera House, the Royal Botanic Gardens sit on a slope overlooking the harbour and cover 30 hectares (74 acres) in the heart of the city. Established in 1816, it is Australia’s oldest scientific institution and home to over one million specimens. Highlights include the Sydney Tropical Centre and the Oriental Garden and there is a hop-on hop-off trackless train to get around them all. Macquarie Street (main entrance) Tel: (02) 9231 8111. Fax: (02) 9251 4403. Website: www.rbgsyd.gov.au Transport: CityRail St James/Martin Place/Circular Quay. Opening hours: Daily 0700-sunset. Admission: Free. Olympic Park One of the best ways to see Sydney’s Olympic Park is to sit back in the air-conditioned comfort of an Olympic Explorer bus, as a guide explains the vision that transformed a former rubbish tip into the most eco-friendly Olympic site yet. The bus departs from the Visitors Centre and Homebush Bay Wharf. The Sydney International Aquatic Centre (tel: (02) 9752 3666), and the Sydney International Athletic Centre (tel: (02) 9752 3444) are both open to the public. Homebush Bay Visitors Centre 1 Herb Elliot Avenue, Homebush Bay Tel: (02) 9714 7888 or 131 500, Australia only (bus rides). Fax: (02) 9714 7822. Website: www.sydneyolympicpark.nsw.gov.au Transport: Train to Strathfield, then bus 401 or 403 to Homebush Bay Wharf; train to Olympic Park; CityFerry from Circular Quay to Homebush Bay Wharf. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Admission: Free; A$10 (tours); concessions available. Taronga Zoo The most desirable residence in Sydney is inhabited not by the upper echelons of society but by a collection of seals, snow leopards, koalas, kangaroos and wallabies. Taronga Zoo’s location, on Bradley’s Head, at Mosman, is one of the most beautiful vantage points on Sydney Harbour, situated on elevated land along the waterfront. The zoo’s newest attractions include the Gorilla Forest, the Orangutan Rainforest, Koala Encounters and Cats of Asia. Bradleys Head Road (main entrance) Tel: (02) 9969 2777. Fax: (02) 9969 7515. Website: www.zoo.nsw.gov.au Transport: Ferry from Circular Quay; bus 247. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Admission: A$22; concessions available. Fox Studios Australia Built on the site of the old showgrounds, Fox Studios has hosted the filming of The Matrix Trilogy (1999/2003), Moulin Rouge (2001) and some of Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones (2002). The adjoining theme park includes shops, cinemas, museums, restaurants and attractions including Titanic: The Experience, the original Babe: Pig in the City set and the Hall of Cool Stuff, featuring famous movie props and costumes. Lang Road, Moore Park Tel: (02) 9383 4333. Fax: (02) 9383 4005. Website: www.foxstudios.com.au Transport: Bus 335 or 339. Opening hours: Daily 1000-2400. Admission: Free. Further Distractions Rose Seidler House Having caused a scandal when it was built in 1950 – it was Australia’s first modernist house – to the extent that some local residents attempted to prevent it being built, the great Australian architect, Harry Seidler’s Rose Seidler House is now one of Australia’s most uncompromising modernist homes. With glass walls and a sun-filled deck, there are panoramic views of Ku-ring-gai National Park from almost every corner of the house. The house has been restored to its original scheme, with 1950s furnishings and objects. 71 Clissold Road, Wahroonga Tel: (02) 9989 8020. Fax: (02) 9487 2761. Website: www.hht.nsw.gov.au/MUSEUMS/rsh.html Transport: Train to Wahroonga. Opening hours: Sun only 1000-1700. Admission: A$7; concessions available. Centennial Parklands A grand park in the European tradition, the Centennial Parklands feature landscaped gardens, statues, historic monuments and houses, ponds, formal gardens, wildlife habitat areas and grand avenues. There is a restaurant and café and facilities for every active pursuit under the sun. Southeast of the city, bordering Paddington, Moore Park and Bondi Junction Website: www.cp.nsw.gov.au Transport: Bus 378, 380, 382 or L82 to Paddington/Woollahra Gates; bus 357 or 359 to Musgrave Avenue Gates; bus 355 to Jervois/Showground Gates; bus 339 or 340 to Randwick/Govett Gates. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Admission: Free. Tours of the City Walking Tours The Rocks Self-guided Tour leaflet is available from the Sydney Visitor Centre for A$2.20 and covers approximately 30 historic buildings and points of interest in The Rocks. The heritage walk takes one to three hours, beginning at the Visitor Centre – a former sailor’s home – and ending at Cadman’s Cottage. The Rocks Walking Tours (tel: (02) 9247 6678; website: www.rockswalkingtours.com.au) operates 90-minute guided tours, taking in all the historic sites. Tours cost A$16 and depart three times a day (twice a day on weekends) from Shop K4, Kendall Lane. Bus Tours Great Sights South Pacific (tel: (02) 9241 2294) offers an ‘Inside Sydney’ half-day tour encompassing Sydney Harbour, the Northern Beaches and Manly, with a Harbour Cruise option. Departures are daily at 0830 and 1400, from the Coach Terminal at Star City Casino, Darling Harbour. The tour costs A$96 or A$148 for a whole-day tour with a cruise. Other Tours There is a plethora of harbour cruises available from a number of operators, many of them based at Circular Quay. Captain Cook Cruises (tel: (02) 9206 1111) offer the ‘John Cadman Sunset Dinner Cruise’ for theatregoers. Departures are at 1700 daily, from No 6 Circular Quay, ending at the Opera House at 1830. The A$69 fee includes champagne and a two-course meal with wine. The ‘Sydney Harbour Explorer’ (A$25) and ‘Sydney Harbour Highlights Cruise’ (A$20) are hop-on, hop-off cruises, leaving from No 6 Circular Quay, with a fixed number of stopping points. ‘Sydney Harbour Explorer’ departures are every two hours (0930-1530), while ‘Sydney Harbour Highlights Cruises’ are approximately one per hour (0930-2000). For aerial views of Sydney Harbour, the Bridge and the Opera House, Sydney Sights Day & Night (tel: (02) 9233 1000; website: www.sydneysights.com) offer a ‘SkyTour’ lasting approximately one hour and costing A$150 (by airplane) or A$350 (by helicopter). Tours depart from Bankstown Airport, Airport Avenue, Bankstown. Excursions For a Half Day Manly: New South Wales has Manly Beach to thank for its sea and surf culture, for it was here, in 1902, that newspaper editor William Gocher first defied the state law against public bathing. The esplanade is now populated with rollerbladers, joggers and cyclists, while the white sand of the south beaches and the golden sands of the north beaches are crowded with swimmers, sunbathers and surfers. A short ferry ride from Circular Quay, Manly – located 13km (eight miles) northeast of the city centre – can also be reached on foot via the Manly Scenic Walkway from Spit Bridge in the city. The walk can take up to four hours but offers some of Sydney’s most breathtaking views, as well as skirting some of its most exclusive homes. For a Whole Day Blue Mountains: A 90-minute drive west from the city, along the Great Western Freeway, the dramatic, forest scenery of the Blue Mountains National Park is a major attraction for nature lovers. The cool eucalyptus forests harbour numerous bushwalks as well as give off the blue haze that gives the area its name. More active visitors may like to go abseiling, rock climbing, mountain biking or horseriding. The area’s most famous attraction is the Three Sisters – a geological feature named after an Aboriginal legend. The easiest way for visitors to see the Blue Mountains is by car, although there are hourly trains to Katoomba from Central Station. Blue Mountains Tourism (tel: (1300) 653 408; website: www.bluemts.com.au) provides further information. Hunter Valley: One of Australia’s premier wine-producing districts, beginning approximately 100km (62 miles) north of Sydney, Hunter Valley has more than 70 vineyards. Although busiest during the harvest months, in February and March, most vineyards remain open to the public daily and offer a range of restaurants and accommodation. Two of the more popular vineyards are Lindemans, one of the largest Australian wine companies, and Rothbury Estate, almost as famous for its concerts as for its wines. At Rothbury, the day’s tour begins with an early morning champagne breakfast, followed by a hot-air balloon flight over the valley. A two-hour drive from Sydney, Cessnock is the gateway to Hunter Valley and home to its main visitor centre. Alternatively, trains from Sydney arrive at Newcastle and take about three hours. Wine Country Tourism (tel: (02) 4990 4477; fax: (02) 4991 4518; website: www.winecountry.com.au) provides full details of tours. Hotels The central Sydney area has a 10% accommodation levy, commonly known as the bed tax. This has been included in the prices quoted below and will be added to the bill, although most hostel-type accommodation is exempt. The prices quoted below are the starting prices for double rooms, excluding breakfast, unless otherwise specified. Business Hotel Inter-Continental This deluxe five-star hotel is housed within the restored Treasury Building, a heritage landmark. Many of the 503 rooms have harbour views – some have panoramic view of the harbour, Royal Botanic Gardens and the Opera House. Lavish executive suites offer separate study and lounge room, while all rooms are equipped with cable TV, dual telephone line, voicemail and daily newspaper. An outstanding feature of the Inter-continental is its private dining rooms, ideal for high-level lunch meetings or special occasions. The business centre boasts two video conferencing studios along with every other conceivable amenity. 117 Macquarie Street Tel: (02) 9253 9000. Fax: (02) 9240 1240. E-mail: sydney@interconti.com Website: www.intercontinental.com Price: A$300 (deluxe guestroom, mid-week). W Arguably the most boldly conceived new hotel in Sydney, W occupies the renovated interior of an old loading wharf, jutting out into the harbour at Woolloomooloo Bay. Retaining the original exterior and many of the interior beams, the refit is an ingenious exercise in industrial chic, which sees a vast central atrium occupied by a bar, restaurant and massive, obsolete conveyor belts (once used for loading bales of wool). Rooms feature sophisticated modern styling alongside photography depicting early 20th-century Sydney. Business travellers are well catered for – the rooms include oversize work desks, ISDN lines and two telephones, while the 24-hour business centre has computers, printers, photocopier and audiovisual equipment for presentations. 6 Cowper Wharf Road, Woolloomooloo Tel: (02) 9331 9000. Fax: (02) 9331 9031. E-mail: wsydney@whotels.com Website: www.whotels.com Price: A$300 (Wharf room, mid-week). The Wentworth A vast 1960s semicircle of concrete, The Wentworth was one of Sydney’s first modern prestige hotels and is heritage listed for its space-age design. A recent multimillion-Dollar refurbishment has revitalised its facilities but retained the interior’s dark wooden elegance. The building’s crescent shape encircles the Level 5 Garden Court, a popular dining and bar area. Conventions are a speciality – up to 1100 people can be catered for in the function and meeting rooms and an in-house audiovisual department offers state-of-the-art equipment including satellite teleconferencing. 61-101 Phillip Street Tel: (02) 9230 0700. Fax: (02) 9228 9133. E-mail: reservations_wentworth@rydges.com Website: www.rydges.com Price: A$215 (mid-week, including breakfast). The Westin The Westin’s location in the financial epicentre of Sydney makes it a logical choice for business travellers, as do its superior in-room facilities, such as three telephone lines and Internet connection. The hotel’s ‘Heritage’ rooms have been carved from the old GPO building, offering a charming combination of old and brand new, while the ‘Tower’ rooms feature glass-walled bathrooms and unobstructed city views. ‘Guest Office’ rooms are fitted with printer/fax/copiers, speakerphone and ergonomic chair. The business and conference centre has seven meeting rooms. Incorporating a massive atrium area filled with prestige shops and first-class eating places, this hotel complex blurs the line between business and pleasure. 1 Martin Place Tel: (02) 8223 1111. Fax: (02) 8223 1222. E-mail: westin.sydney@westin.com Website: www.westin.com.au Price: From A$295 (including breakfast). Luxury ANA Harbour Grand Many Sydney hotels have views. The five-star deluxe ANA puts them all to shame. Where else is it possible for one to glance down at both the Opera House and Harbour Bridge from a guest room’s sofa, or to lord it over Darling Harbour from the comfort of the bathtub? Japanese tourists come in their droves to this Japanese-owned place and its traditional dining facilities – including sushi bar, teppanyaki restaurant and tatami room – are among the best in the country. Rooms are in an Asian-European style and every one boasts a harbour view. The aptly named Horizons Bar was named best Sydney cocktail bar by the Daily Telegraph in 2001. 176 Cumberland Street, The Rocks Tel: (02) 9250 6000. Fax: (02) 9250 6250. E-mail: reservations@anahotel.com.au Website: www.anahotel.com.au Price: A$350 (Deluxe Harbour View room, including breakfast). Sir Stamford at Circular Quay Formerly the Ritz-Carlton, the Sir Stamford has retained a style of traditional European luxury, replete with grand chandeliers, oil paintings, antique furniture and fine bone china. Dining areas and guest rooms are cosy and elegant, bathrooms feature marble double basins and Bulgari toiletries, and personal service is exceptional. The private lounge club is ideal for informal business meetings, with secretarial and IT staff on call for any special requirements. Recent guests include Cher and The Rolling Stones. And it’s a short stroll to the Opera House. This hotel was voted number one hotel in Australia by Condé Nast Traveller, 2001. 93 Macquarie Street Tel: (02) 9252 4600. Fax: (02) 9252 4286. E-mail: reservations@sscq.stamford.com.au Website: www.stamford.com.au Price: From A$304 (mid-week, including breakfast). Moderate The Crest Hotel Located in the lively nightlife nexus of Kings Cross and Darlinghurst – Kings Cross train station is located just underneath the hotel – The Crest Hotel offers a quality Sydney stay that is extremely good value. Most rooms have panoramic views of the city or Rushcutters Bay and all have mini-bar, TV and safe. The Ginseng Bathhouse on Level 1 is an authentic Korean bathhouse offering specialist saunas, massage and skin treatments and it attracts stressed-out execs from all over town. Guests can enjoy the facilities for half price. 111 Darlinghurst Road, Kings Cross Tel: (02) 9358 2755. Fax: (02) 9358 2888. E-mail: reservations@thecresthotel.com.au Website: www.cresthotel.com.au Price: A$110 (including breakfast). Travelodge Phillip Street This no-nonsense hotel in the CBD offers the familiar Travelodge amenities for the budget-minded traveller. Rooms are workmanlike and feature kitchenette with microwave and cable television – there are also five disabled access rooms. The building houses the NSW Leagues’ Club – guests gain automatic membership – whose four bar areas fill up with after-work revellers. The Quay is a five minute walk away and Martin Place is just around the corner, although visitors should not expect any views apart from the central atrium’s rather scary trompe l’oeil mural. 165 Phillip Street Tel: (02) 8224 9400. Fax: (02) 8224 9500. E-mail: hotel@phillipstreet.travelodge.com.au Website: www.travelodge.com.au Price: A$125 (single or twin). Other Recommendations The Kirketon Oh so cool, The Kirketon is one of two boutique hotels in Darlinghurst Road, under the same ownership – the other, Medusa, offers a Baroque variation on the minimalist theme. An overused location for magazine shoots, the Kirketon is a by-word for stainless steel, mirrors and style over sincerity. Being a fashion model is not a prerequisite of staying here but it helps. There are 40 guest rooms, as well as small function rooms, the acclaimed Salt (see Restaurants) and the red, womblike cigar bar, Fix. 229 Darlinghurst Road, Darlinghurst Tel: (02) 9332 2011. Fax: (02) 9332 2499. E-mail: info@kirketon.com.au Website: www.kirketon.com.au Price: From A$220. Star City It’s big and gaudy – Las Vegas-style. Star City, a 24-hour pageant of dedicated gamblers and suave croupiers, is a universe unto itself. This is Australia-as-theme-park – the elaborate and off-putting interior design uses bush and native motifs – but the hotel rooms are big and friendly with city views and Internet access and the Sydney Convention Centre is a short walk away. Like any good Vegas casino, there’s an all-you-can-eat buffet and theatres offering big, flashy stage shows. For tourists seeking an action-packed Sydney stay, Star City is a safe bet. 80 Pyrmont Street, Pyrmont Tel: (02) 9657 8393. Fax: (02) 9657 8345. E-mail: reservations@starcity.com.au Website: www.starcity.com.au Price: A$285 (city view midweek including breakfast and A$10 gaming voucher). Restaurants We have selected 25 restaurants, which we have divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. Sydney has a Goods and Services Tax (GST) of 10%. Menus will usually say ‘Prices include GST’. It is highly unlikely that the extra 10% would be added to the bill as an extra at the end. However, on public holidays, many establishments add a 15% service charge to the bill. Tipping is still far from obligatory in Sydney but good service should be rewarded with a gratuity of up to 10%. If the service has been unsatisfactory, it is not necessary to tip anything. The prices quoted below are for a three-course meal and a bottle of house wine or equivalent; they include the GST but do not include a service charge or tip. Many restaurants in Sydney are unlicensed but operate a BYO (Bring Your Own) policy. This (and the relevant corkage fee) is listed below. Gastronomic Catalina Rose Bay Catalina Rose Bay is a must for lovers of seafood and ocean views – every year the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race begins under the very noses of its patrons. Japanese and Spanish influences alternate over a range of fish and shellfish creations that melt in the mouth, such as crépinette of crab and snapper, tartlet of seared sea scallops and mushroom stuffed poussin. The food’s presentation rivals the architectural elegance of this terrific restaurant. 1 Sunderland Avenue, Rose Bay Tel: (02) 9371 0555. Fax: (02) 9371 0559. E-mail: catrest@ozemail.com.au Website: www.catalinarosebay.com.au Price: A$85. Wine: A$40. Edna's Table When the craving for emu tartare, crocodile sushi or kangaroo fillet gets too much, Edna’s Table beckons. Comfortable modern decor, Aboriginal artworks and authentic bush ingredients, including bunya nuts, Kakadu plum and eucalyptus oil, contribute to Edna’s truly unique style. A Native Australian dégustation menu is also offered with a selection of Australian wines for A$135. 204 Clarence Street Tel: (02) 9267 3933. Fax: (02) 9264 9002. E-mail: ednas@acay.com.au Website: www.ednastable.com.au Price: A$70. Wine: A$30. Guillaume at Bennelong The only Sydney restaurant that is also a world architectural icon, Guillaume at Bennelong is the smallest of the three soaring structures making up the Opera House. Recently taken over by Guillaume Brahini, a three-Michelin-starred chef, the restaurant’s new menu embraces local produce cooked with French techniques, such as wild oysters braised in a butter curry, ocean trout rolled in scallops and salad of figs with goat’s cheese. Dining doesn’t get much more glamorous than this, although booking well ahead is essential. Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point Tel: (02) 9241 1999. Fax: (02) 9241 3795. E-mail: enquiries@guillaumeatbennelong.com.au Website: www.guillaumeatbennelong.com.au Price: A$65 (pre-theatre menu 1730-1900), A$85 (à la carte). Wine: A$35. Quay The best French cuisine on the continent can be enjoyed along with the best view. The Opera House and the Harbour Bridge (in close-up) compete for attention with fat and succulent oysters and a legendary roasted Kangaroo Island chicken, in an upholstered modern ambience. Patrons should be sure to leave room for dessert as Quay’s three-layered chocolate cake is legendary. Overseas Passenger Terminal, West Circular Quay Tel: (02) 9251 5600. Fax: (02) 9251 5609. E-mail: gm@quay.com.au Website: www.quay.com.au Price: A$90. Wine: A$60. Tetsuya’s Tetsuya Wakuda became a local legend in the suburb of Rozelle with his obligatory ten-course meal of Japanese/French fusion delights, and he has since relocated to the centre of town. Bookings must be made at least one month in advance but the wait is worth it to experience some of Sydney’s most decadent gastronomy. The set menu consists of small dishes, such as the now famous confit of Tasmanian ocean trout with ocean trout roe, or lobster ravioli with seaweed vinaigrette and shellfish essence or double-cooked deboned spatchcock with braised daikon and bread sauce. 529 Kent Street Tel: (02) 9267 2900. Fax: (02) 9262 7099. Price: A$155 (set menu). Wine: A$32. Business Banc One of Australia’s most acclaimed restaurants, conveniently located in the CBD, Banc’s luxurious modern interior of marble columns and mirrors is home to the most discerning diners. The menu applies deft twists to traditional haute cuisine, such as baked truffles, tart Lyonnaisse and assiette of lamb, and the cellar boasts over 900 wine labels. 53 Martin Place Tel: (02) 9233 5300. Fax: (02) 9233 5311. E-mail: eat@gpobox.com.au Website: www.banc.citysearch.com.au Price: A$80. Wine: A$50. Bayswater Brasserie The reliable choice for a civilised lunch, stylish dinner or a few friendly beers, Bayswater Brasserie serves modern Mediterranean-style fare, such as goat’s cheese tartlet, braised lamb shanks or pan-fried sardine fillets, in an elegant home-style venue. Features include a leafy outdoor dining area and cocktail bar. 32 Bayswater Road, Kings Cross Tel: (02) 9357 2177. Fax: (02) 9358 1213. Price: A$30. Wine: A$20. Bonne Femme A beacon of sophistication among the grungy terrace houses of East Sydney, Bonne Femme has an elegant minimalist fit-out, a boutique wine list (BYO also allowed) and mouth-watering, modern French cuisine. Dishes include duck liver parfait, venison choux farcé with truffled lentils or seared scallops with potatoes and bacon. The roast carrot purée comes highly recommended. The ideal venue for an intimate tête-à-tête, business dinner or Friday lunch, it also has a private room seating up to 35. 191 Palmer Street, East Sydney Tel: (02) 9331 4455. Fax: (02) 9331 4577. E-mail: bonnefemme@onenet.net.au Price: A$50. Wine: A$30. Salt A fugue of white plastic and metal, Salt contrasts severity of design with sumptuousness of menu. Fish and game, such as tempura of quail or roasted fillet of hare, are specialities in a venue that has attracted gourmands and serious business folk – as well as the achingly hip – since opening in 1999. 229 Darlinghurst Road, Darlinghurst Tel: (02) 9332 2566. Fax: (02) 9332 2530. E-mail: info@saltrestaurant.com.au Website: www.kirketon.com.au Price: A$80. Wine: A$40. The Summit The world’s largest revolving restaurant, The Summit has 360 degree views of Sydney, hearty, no-nonsense cuisine and a good-times atmosphere. Dishes will be simple but tasty things like grilled snapper fillet, sirloin steak or Caesar salad. A seafood buffet is available for Sunday lunch for A$53. Level 47, Australia Square, 264 George Street Tel: (02) 9247 9777. Fax: (02) 9251 2539. E-mail: thesummit@tpg.com.au Website: www.summitrestaurant.com.au Price: A$70. Wine: A$30. Trendy Bill’s There’s no better start to a Sydney day than a Bill’s breakfast – ricotta hotcakes, creamy scrambled eggs, towering muffins and fresh fruit platters. The enormous communal table is covered with magazines and adds a friendly touch to an all-too-trendy part of town. Lunch is also served, ranging from a prawn salad to a steak sandwich. No dinner. 433 Liverpool Street, Darlinghurst Tel: (02) 9360 9631. Fax: (02) 9360 7302. E-mail: bills@billsrestaurants.com.au Price: A$20. Wine: BYO (free corkage). Hugo’s Erstwhile haunt (in happier days) of Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman, Hugo’s is the place to be in Bondi. An intimate restaurant and bar, it boasts sweeping views of the entire beach and exceptional Asian fusion cuisine, such as Japanese sweet grilled eel, roast Moreton Bay bug tails (a kind of crayfish) in a sweet corn soup or steamed barramundi with lime and coconut sauce. The weekend brunch is the hottest ticket on the East Coast and consequently very crowded – a Hugo’s Breakfast costs A$14. 70 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach Tel: (02) 9300 0900. Fax: (02) 9300 0922. E-mail: hugos@bigpond.com Price: A$65. Wine: A$35. Longrain A meal at Longrain is like a visit to the halls of Valhalla – its converted warehouse space has long wooden dining tables, polished floorboards and a Scandinavian ambience. The Thai-tinged menu is fit for demigods: betel leaves with trout roe and crispy Barossa chicken are two of the highlights. Bookings are not taken so arrival before 1930 is advised. 85 Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills Tel: (02) 9280 2888. Fax: (02) 9280 2887. Price: A$50. Wine: A$30. Mezzaluna Keanu Reeves, Samuel Jackson, Mariah Carey, Brendan Fraser ... when the stars come to town, they head straight for this lively Italian restaurant with its famous view of the Sydney skyline. Sunset is the best time to enjoy a meal or cocktails on the large balcony (covered by tall awnings and heated in winter) but dining here is never less than an occasion, with dishes such as veal fillet served with juniper berries and parsley, ocean trout with ricotta, baked scampi with saffron and chilli dressing. 123 Victoria Street, Potts Point Tel: (02) 9357 1988. Fax: (02) 9357 2615. E-mail: mezzaluna@mezzaluna.com.au Website: www.mezzaluna.com.au Price: A$55. Wine: A$30. MG Garage Restaurant If an MG convertible symbolises the good life, then it makes perfect sense to see several of them parked among the tables and chairs of one of Sydney’s most acclaimed new restaurants. The plush leather, steel and wood decor is inspired by the automobile, but the highly original menu adds Greek influences to foodstuffs like tripe sausage, guinea fowl and barramundi. Despite the high-concept trappings, the place is refreshingly unpretentious. No dinner Saturdays. Closed Sundays. 490 Crown Street, Surry Hills Tel: (02) 9383 9383. Fax: (02) 9383 9384. E-mail: jkyritsis@mggaragesydney.com.au Website: www.mggaragesydney.com.au Price: A$95. Wine: A$35. Budget Arthur’s Pizza Nothing satiates the hunger from a day’s shopping in the chi-chi boutiques of Paddington like a big traditional pizza (or pasta) at Arthur’s. If the place is full – and it often is – staff are prepared to go and fetch people from the pub next door when a table becomes free. 260 Oxford Street, Paddington Tel: (02) 9231 5257. Price: A$30. Wine: BYO (corkage A$3 per person). BBQ King Peking duck hangs in the window and it is Peking duck that attracts the crowds to the authentic (if slightly tatty) BBQ King on the northeastern border of Chinatown. The menu includes a superb suckling pig and plenty of out-there Chinese delicacies, but other than that the places doesn’t have many frills. Open until 0200. 18-20 Goulburn Street Tel: (02) 9267 2433. Fax: (02) 9267 2001. Price: A$26. Bottle of beer: A$4.50. Bill & Toni’s The word ‘institution’ doesn’t really cut it for this cheery East Sydney trattoria that has been offering pasta, schnitzel, meatballs and not a whole lot else for a quarter of a century. Big baskets of bread and orange cordial are free, while coffee in the downstairs café is probably the best (and most potent) in Sydney. 74 Stanley Street, East Sydney Tel: (02) 9360 4702. Price: A$20. Wine: BYO (free corkage). Harry’s Cafe de Wheels Not a restaurant but a waterfront meat pie stand, Harry’s has been serving the Aussie staple to sailors, hoodlums and late-night party casualties since 1945. Consequently, it has become a tourist attraction, decorated with photographs of famous visitors (including, oddly enough, Colonel Sanders). And the pies? Bloody good tucker, mate. Open until 0400 Friday and Saturday. Cowper Wharf Road, Woolloomooloo Tel: (02) 9357 3074. Price: A$3.80 (pie with peas, mash and gravy). Unlicensed. Wok Station One could live happily for a year on Wok Station’s A$9 pad thai, so it is a good thing there are also outlets in Glebe, Pyrmont, Darlinghurst and Leichhardt. For cheap, fresh and delicious Thai food in respectable surrounds, it is the best option. 230 William Street, Kings Cross Tel: (02) 9326 9343. Price: A$20. Wine: BYO (corkage A$1 per person). Personal Recommendations Bodhi’s Yám cha (lunch) doesn’t have to mean pork bun and prawn rolls. This cool minimalist vegan restaurant offers a satisfying Chinese experience minus the meat. A Vegan Peking Duck substitutes gluten and tofu for the duck; other dishes include fresh vegetables wrapped with lettuce, or steamed spinach or celery and nut dumplings. The special sauces make the dishes delicious. Service may be a little rough, but the price is right. 10/730-742 George Street; also Cook & Phillip Park, 4 College Street Tel: (02) 9212 2828. Fax: (02) 9211 3815. Price: A$30. Wine: A$20. Chinta Ria The Temple Of Love A gigantic Buddha forms the centrepiece to this large-scale Malaysian eating experience in Cockle Bay Wharf. A shrine to good, inexpensive laksa (a spicy sour soup) and noodles, the restaurant serves them up in a carnival atmosphere of chattering diners and steaming woks. Level 2, 201 Sussex Street, Cockle Bay Tel: (02) 9264 3211. Fax: (02) 9264 1411. Price: A$25. Wine: A$25. Kam Fook Patrons hoping to sample Sydney’s best yám cha (lunch) had better arrive before 1000 or face a 90-minute wait (getting a table at dinner is less of a struggle). This 800-seater is as crowded with people as its enormous tanks are with mud crabs and barramundi, and the pace is pure Hong Kong. Acclaimed specialities are shark’s fin soup and deep fried duck. Level 3, Market City, 9-13 Hay Street Tel: (02) 9211 8988. Fax: (02) 9211 8882. Price: A$25. Wine: A$20. Oh! Calcutta! Despite the vaudevillian name, Oh! Calcutta! has won the Sydney Morning Herald’s best Indian restaurant award seven years in a row. Why? A captivating menu of unusual dishes from North India, Afghanistan, Pakistan and northwestern China; the best local produce and meats from camel and goat to kangaroo and crab; stylish mosque-meets-minimalism interior design; and a charming host. 251 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst Tel: (02) 9360 3650. Fax: (02) 9331 3701. Website: www.calcutta.citysearch.com.au Price: A$60. Wine: BYO. Thai Pothong King Street, Newtown seems to have more Thai restaurants than Bangkok but Thai Pothong is the biggest and the best value. Standards, such as chicken cashew nut and tom yung soup, are as good as they come, the service is swift and attentive, and the restaurant is filled with the constant buzz of people who know they are eating well at a very reasonable price. 294-298 King Street, Newtown Tel: (02) 9550 6277. Fax: (02) 9519 8050. Website: www.thaipothong.com.au Price: A$25. Wine: A$20. Sport Sydney’s acres of coastline and parkland make it a dream destination for sports enthusiasts and lovers of the great outdoors. During the summer, Bondi shows off the bodies beautiful of surfers, rollerbladers and sunbathers. The region boasts some of the world’s top surfing conditions and the best beaches for beginners are Manly, Curl Curl, Freshwater or North Bondi. Surf aficionados in search of bigger waves should head for the beaches of North Narrabeen, South Maroubra, Newport, South Bondi and Queenscliff. Waves aside, the ocean pools offer a spectacular alternative to chlorinated lanes, for swimmers. Scuba divers are also well served, with a number of local marine parks. For the international yachting set, Sydney Harbour is the starting point for one of the biggest fixtures of the year, the 2000km (1240-mile) Sydney to Hobart race. The cricket season (October-March) includes Test and World Series Cup matches at the Sydney Cricket Ground, Driver Avenue (tel: (02) 9360 6601), while during the football season (March-September) soccer games, rugby league and rugby union matches are held at the Aussie Stadium, Moore Park (tel: (02) 9360 6601). Sydney’s Aussie Rules football team, the home team, Sydney Swans (website: www.sydneyswans.com.au), plays at the Sydney Cricket Ground and enjoy considerable support, although the team tends to trail at the bottom end of the AFL ladder. Tickets to sporting events are available from Ticketek (tel: (02) 9266 4800; website: www.ticketek.com). Bushwalking: The national parks in and around Sydney offer some spectacular bushwalks. Routes and information can be obtained from Sydney Harbour Parks (tel: (02) 9247 8861) or the National Parks and Wildlife Service (tel: (02) 9585 6444). Fitness centres: Body-conscious Sydney has a proliferation of gyms, including City Gym, 107 Crown Street (tel: (02) 9360 6247), Gold’s Gym, 23 Pelican Street (tel: (02) 9264 4496), and Bayswater Fitness, 33 Bayswater Road, Kings Cross (tel: (02) 9356 2555). Golf: The Lakes Golf Club Ltd, on the corner of King Street and Vernon Avenue, Mascot (tel: (02) 9669 1311), is among Sydney’s most exclusive courses. Non-members welcome on Monday and Thursday. Other courses include Riverside Oaks, O’Briens Road, Cattai (tel: (02) 4560 3299), and St Michael’s Golf Course, Jennifer Street, Little Bay (tel: (02) 9311 0621). Rates for 18 holes start at approximately A$50. Rollerblading: Rollerbladers are now just part of the scenery in Sydney, especially at Bondi Beach and Centennial Park. Blades and protective clothing can be hired at Bondi Boards & Blades, 230 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction (tel: (02) 9369 2212; e-mail: info@bondiboardsandblades.com.au; website: www.bondiboardsandblades.com.au), and Centennial Park Cycles, 50 Clovelly Road (tel: (02) 9398 5027). Scuba diving: Sydney has good visibility and some colourful local marine parks, which are ideal for snorkelling and scuba diving. Operators include Pro Dive Travel, 478 George Street (tel: (02) 9281 5066), and Sydney Dive Academy, 462 Bunnerong Road, Matraville (tel: (02) 9349 6333). Squash: The Surry Hills Squash Centre, 525 Crown Street (tel: (02) 9699 3233), is centrally located. Surfing: Outfits such as Let’s Go Surfing, 128a Ramsgate Avenue, North Bondi (tel: (02) 9365 1800), and Sydney Safe Surf, The Pavilion, Marine Parade, Maroubra (tel: (02) 9311 2834), provide courses for beginners. Swimming: The beaches at Coogee, Avalon, Clovelly and Austinmer have ocean pools. The site of many dramatic Olympic moments, the Sydney International Aquatic Centre, Homebush Bay (tel: (02) 9752 3666) is open for public bathing. The amazing underground Cook & Phillip Park Aquatic Centre, 4 College Street (tel: (02) 9326 0444), features Olympic pool, wave pool and hydrotherapy bath, right in the city centre. Tennis: White City, 30 Alma Street, Paddington (tel: (02) 9360 3766), has excellent facilities but after 1600 and on weekends is restricted to members only. Rushcutters Bay Tennis Centre, 7 Waratah Street (tel: (02) 9357 1675), is less exclusive, as is Jensen’s Tennis Centre, Prince Alfred Park, Surry Hills (tel: (02) 9698 9451). Windsurfing: Balmoral Windsurfing, Sailing and Kayaking School is located at 2 The Esplanade (tel: (02) 9960 5344). Yachting: Every weekend, Sydney Harbour is dotted with the sails of hundreds of yachts. Sydney Harbour Escapes (tel: (02) 9328 4748) provides further information for those wishing to join in. Shopping The city’s flagship department stores are David Jones, 86-108 Castlereagh Street, gentlemen’s emporium Gowing Brothers, on the corner of Market Street and George Street, which dates back to 1868, and the down-to-earth Grace Bros, 436 George Street. Castlereagh Street is considered Sydney’s designer row, although this does not take account of prestige stores in Chifley Plaza, 2 Chifley Square, and the MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Place. There are shopping malls galore and two splendid Victorian arcades at the Strand, 412-414 George Street, and the palatial Queen Victoria Building, 455 George Street, also known as QVB. Market City, Thomas Street, Haymarket, has factory outlets and traditional markets. An impressive homegrown stable of fashion designers has established Sydney as a regional fashion capital, reaching both the Asian and the US markets. Among the most popular designers are Paris Fashion Week regular Collette Dinnigan, 33 William Street, Paddington, and Lisa Ho, 2a-6a Queen Street. For gifts with a local flavour, the most exquisite gourmet foods can be found at Simon Johnson Quality Foods, 181 Harris Street, Aboriginal artefacts at Coo-ee Aboriginal Art, 98 Oxford Street, and the trendiest of board gear at Surfection, 205 Oxford Street. It is worth exploring the length of Oxford Street, just to experience the variety of shopping genres, from the camp end at Darlinghurst, past the small fashion stores of Paddington, through Edgecliff and on into Woollahra and the top-of-the-range antique shops in and around Queen Street. Darling Harbour, Chinatown and The Rocks historic district are teeming with souvenir and craft shops. The Rocks is also the place to pick up gems from the major Australian opal fields. The Rocks Opal Mine, 13 Clocktower Square, and Flame Opals, 119 George Street, have a good selection, as does the downtown Gemstone Boutique, 388 George Street. For pearls from the northwest coast of Australia, Paspaley Pearls, 142 King Street, has some world-class examples. There are markets at Balmain, Bondi Beach and The Rocks but perhaps the one with the strongest local flavour is the Sydney Fish Market, open daily 0700-1600, in Pyrmont, offering over 100 species of the freshest seafood, sushi bars and fish cafés. Shop opening hours are generally Monday-Saturday 0900-1800, with late-night shopping until 2100 on Thursdays. Increasingly, shops are opening on Sunday. A 10% Goods and Services Tax came into force on 1 July 2000 – price tags usually include the GST. There are several duty-free shops in the city centre, as well as at the airport. Shoppers must show their passport and onward ticket on collection of goods. Culture Beach culture aside, Sydney’s cultural life is uniquely diverse, from high classical at the Sydney Opera House to the most cutting-edge contemporary and experimental performance art. The Opera House is the major focus of attention for classical music, opera, theatre and dance. The people of Sydney have a great capacity for performance, which is perhaps what makes the performing arts scene such a robustly thriving arena. An important part of Sydney’s cultural life is the contribution made by Aboriginal and Torres Strait islanders. The Survival Festival, held every year on Australia Day, 26 January, is the Aboriginal alternative to more traditional national celebrations, showcasing Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander culture with music, dance, art and food. The Bangarra Dance Theatre brings that culture right up to date with performances, which integrate traditional elements into modern dance. The Bangarra Dance Theatre company performs at various venues throughout the city. Cultural productions and events are listed in the Sydney Morning Herald’s entertainment section, Metro, in the Friday edition. Further listings and information are provided in the free booklet, Sydneyscope and online (website: www.sydney.citysearch.com.au). Tickets can be purchased from Ticketek (tel: (02) 9266 4800; website: www.ticketek.com) and Ticketmaster7 (tel: 136 100, Australia only; website: www.ticketmaster7.com). The Halftix booth, located inside the Travel Centre at 91 York Street (tel: (02) 9279 0855; website: www.halftix.com.au), offers reduced price tickets on the day of the show. Music: Classical music in Sydney is concentrated around a handful of performers and venues, which is a poor indicator of the city’s huge appetite for symphony orchestras, choirs and operas. The Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point (tel: (02) 9250 7111; website: www.soh.nsw.gov.au), is the premier performance venue, although the acoustics in its Concert Hall are notoriously inadequate. The Sydney Symphony (tel: (02) 9334 4644; website: www.symphony.org.au) has even threatened to boycott it. The Sydney Philharmonia Choir (tel: (02) 9251 2024; website: www.sydneyphilharmonia.com.au), Opera Australia (tel: (02) 9319 1088; website: www.opera-australia.org.au) and the Australian Chamber Orchestra (tel: (02) 8274 3800) still hold most of their performances at the Opera House. The Eugene Goossens Hall, ABC Ultimo Centre, Harris Street (tel: (02) 9333 1500), tends to be used for smaller performances of contemporary music, as does Sydney Town Hall, 483 George Street (tel: (02) 9265 9189; website: www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au). The Conservatorium of Music, Macquarie Street (tel: (02) 9351 1222), hosts symphony, wind and chamber concerts as well as jazz big bands. Theatre: The Sydney Theatre Company (tel: (02) 9250 1777; website: www.sydneytheatre.com.au), is the city’s stylish flagship theatre company. Performances take place at the Wharf Theatres, Pier 4, Hickson Road, and the Opera House, Bennelong Point (tel: (02) 9250 7111; website: www.soh.nsw.gov.au). Acting luminaries, such as Geoffrey Rush and Cate Blanchett, have performed at the highly respected Belvoir Street Theatre, Belvoir Street (tel: (02) 9699 3444; website: www.belvoir.com.au), while The Performance Space, 199 Cleveland Street (tel: (02) 9319 5091), and the Seymour Theatre Centre, Cleveland Street and City Road (tel: (02) 9351 7940), are the main venues for more left-field contemporary performance. Musicals are staged at the Capitol Theatre, 13 Campbell Street (tel: (02) 9320 5000), the State Theatre, 49 Market Street (tel: (02) 9373 6655; website: www.statetheatre.com.au), or the Lyric Theatre, Star City, 80 Pyrmont Street (tel: (02) 9657 8500). Newer Australian playwrights stage their work at the Stables Theatre, 10 Nimrod Street (tel: (02) 9361 3817). Sydney’s longest established theatre is the Ensemble, 78 McDougall Street, Kirribilli (tel: (02) 9929 0644). Dance: The Australian Ballet (tel: (02) 9252 5500; website: www.australianballet.com.au) performs mainly traditional pieces during its summer and winter season at the Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point (tel: (02) 9250 7111; website: www.soh.nsw.gov.au), each year. Similarly, the Sydney Dance Company (tel: (02) 9221 4811; website: www.sydneydance.com.au), the city’s leading contemporary dance group, performs at the Opera House for two seasons in every year. In a more native vein, the Bangarra Dance Theatre, Pier 4/5 Hickson Road, (tel: (02) 9251 5333; website: www.bangarra.com.au) performs a fusion of contemporary and traditional dance. Film: The city’s central cinemas, near Town Hall, have all merged into the 17-screen Greater Union Village Hoyts George Street (tel: (02) 9273 7431; website: www.hoyts.com.au). Fox Studios Australia, Driver Avenue, is home to two cinema complexes, Hoyts (tel: (02) 9332 1300), including a luxury cinema, La Premiere, and the arthouse, Cinema Paris (tel: (02) 9332 1633). Other arthouse cinemas include the Academy Twin, 3a Oxford Street (tel: (02) 9361 4453; website: www.palace.net.au), home to the Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras Film Festival (tel: (02) 9332 4938), the Chauvel, Paddington Town Hall (tel: (02) 9361 5398; website: www.chauvelcinema.com.au), and the Art Deco Hayden Orpheum, 380 Military Road (tel: (02) 9908 4344). First-run movies open on Thursday and discount night is on Tuesday. The Sydney Film Festival (tel: (02) 9660 3844; website: www.sydneyfilmfestival.org) takes place every year in June, with most screenings in the magnificent marble auditorium of the State Theatre. Makers of short films enter Tropfest (tel: (02) 9368 0434; website: www.tropfest.com.au) every March, with finalists shown on open-air screens set up around the city. Notable films set or partially set in Sydney include Peter Weir’s The Last Wave (1977), P J Hogan’s Muriel’s Wedding (1993), Stephan Elliot’s The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert (1993), John Woo’s Mission: Impossible 2 (2000), and Ray Lawrence’s Lantana (2001). Cultural events: Sydney Festival, held in January, features open-air concerts and theatre from around the world, alongside Sydney’s best. Sydney Biennale, held from May to July of even-numbered years, is an international art festival held in conjunction with the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Art Gallery of New South Wales. Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras is a month-long festival in February/March, which is famous for its colourful parade along Oxford Street attracting over half a million spectators every year. Royal Easter Show is a traditional 12-day show that brings farm life to the city. The Festival of the Winds is Australia’s largest kite-flying competition, held annually in September at Bondi Beach. Kite-making talent from Australia and abroad compete for title of Best Home Made Kite. Manly Jazz Festival, held on the Labour Day long weekend in October, is Australia’s largest, longest and best-known jazz festival, featuring trad, big band, fusion, bop and contemporary jazz. Sleaze Ball, a fundraiser for the Mardi Gras Festival, is also held on the Labour Day long weekend. About 16,000 gay and lesbian revellers dress to a theme and party all night at Fox Studios. Literary Notes ‘One of the finest, most beautiful, vast and safe bays the sun had ever shone upon,’ wrote inveterate traveller Joseph Conrad in 1906. Sydney Harbour continues to inspire eulogies from writers, including Miles Franklin who, in 1946, wrote: ‘A month would not be long enough to imbibe such beauty.’ More recently, Clive James, the writer, satirist, broadcaster and critic, was rather more blunt: ‘Sydney is like Venice without the architecture but with more sea.’ Sydney’s literary luminaries include Peter Carey, who lived in the city before moving to New York, and set his Booker Prize-winning Oscar and Lucinda (1988) in 19th-century Sydney, where country girl Lucinda dreams of self-reliance and an industrial utopia. Australia’s most successful playwright, David Williamson calls Sydney home. His works include Up For Grabs (2000), recently performed on London’s West End, starring Madonna, and Don’s Party (1971). Williamson’s Emerald City (1987) is a comedic hymn to Sydney’s temptations. An idiosyncratic streak led Sydney’s son, Thomas Keneally, from the priesthood to the life of a full-time novelist. He published his first novel in 1964 and was awarded the Booker Prize for Schindler’s Ark (1982). In 1983, he was awarded the Order of Australia for his services to Australian Literature. Modern Sydney receives a sanction of sorts from one of its favourite sons, world famous art critic Robert Hughes, who wrote: ‘The provinciality that seemed to characterise Australian society, and could be plainly seen in Sydney 25 years ago, is all but gone. To a striking degree, the city’s habits have softened. Its harsh intolerant machismo ... has toned down. Sydney is no longer quite so keen on the ‘ocker’ (Pacific redneck) image of the Australian: beer gut, thongs, nasal foghorn voice and a truculent certainty that, short of Paradise itself, Australia is the only ticket and that the rest of the world only displays its inferiority by not necessarily wanting to come here.’ Nightlife Oxford Street, the heart of Sydney’s gay area, may have lost the edge of its 1980s heyday but is now buzzing with cafés and clubs – gay and straight – which have replaced its former sleazy collection of leather bars. The established red light area of Kings Cross continues to cater for the seedier side of life. The Rocks, with its wharves and warehouses, was the original drinking heart of the city and, in the early 20th century, the rowdy scene of the ritual ‘six o’clock swill’, when workers would drink as much as possible before the pubs closed at 1800. Today, the period pubs have been cleaned up for its huge tourist clientele. Drinks at the harbourside terrace across the bay, at Bennelong Point, under the curves of the Sydney Opera House, are expensive but worth it for the views across the harbour. Sydney’s night owls are predominantly designer-clad. Bouncers at the more fashionable clubs enforce strict dress codes and ID checks. Sydney’s licensing hours are extremely relaxed – the days of the six o’clock swill are long gone. At any hour of the day or night, somewhere is serving drinks to anyone over the legal age of 18. The price of a drink is approximately A$4-8. For up-to-date listings, the free weekly entertainment guides, Drum Media, Revolver and 3D World, are available at most city-centre bookshops and record stores, as is the gay and lesbian Sydney Star Observer. The Sydney Morning Herald also carries an entertainment section, Metro, in the Friday edition. Bars: The Establishment, 252 George Street, lives up to its name as Sydney’s de rigueur after-work drinking place. Chic and enormous, it incorporates the exclusive Hemmesphere cocktail lounge. Middle Bar, 383 Bourke Street, plays host to many beautiful young things. East Village, 234 Palmer Street, offers a sophisticated take on the classic Sydney pub, as does the beautiful Art Deco Civic, 388 Pitt Street. ECQ, 69 Macquarie Street, has stunning views of the Harbour Bridge – and equally as stunning prices. Gilligans, 134 Oxford Street, is where gays, lesbians and their friends can enjoy a few fabulous cocktails. The Stonewall, 175 Oxford Street, is another good place to start a gay night out in Sydney – there are DJs, drag shows and friendly faces galore. The Darlo Bar, 306 Liverpool Street, the Green Park Hotel, 360 Victoria Street, and the Bank Hotel, 324 King Street, are where the younger inner-city crowd converge for pool and beer. And for those with no pretensions at all, the Bourbon & Beefsteak Bar, 24 Darlinghurst Road, Kings Cross, is open 24 hours. Casinos: Star City Casino, 80 Pyrmont Street, is a 60-million-Australian-Dollar casino, theatre, restaurant and hotel complex on the site of a former wharf. Dress code is smart-casual and the gaming section is restricted to persons who are 18 years and over. A passport or other proof of age is required. Clubs: Sydney takes clubbing very seriously. It’s always safer to dress up rather than down and be prepared to queue. Home, Cockle Bay Wharf, has four different sections featuring funk, techno, two-step and disco. Tank, 3 Bridge Lane, is part of the Establishment complex, 252 George Street (see above). The Chinese Laundry, 1 Slip Street, combines a blistering sound system with mock-Oriental decor. Sydney’s well-connected society clubbers go to Cave, Pirrama Road, while the old stand-by, Q Bar, 44 Oxford Street, is a reliable choice for mid-week clubbing. Other notable venues include The Bank, 129 Pitt Street, Sugareef, 20 Bayswater Road, and Gas, 477 Pitt Street. The gay dance scene revolves around Arq, 16 Flinders Street. Comedy: Sydney’s premier venue showcasing local, national and international stand-up talent is The Comedy Store, Fox Studios, Lang Road. Monday night is comedy night at the Fringe Bar, located in the Unicorn Hotel, 106 Oxford Street. The Laugh Garage, in the Macquarie Hotel, Corner Goulburn Street and Wentworth Avenue, is open Thursday-Saturday. Live music: The infestation of poker machines in New South Wales threatened to kill off Sydney’s pub rock scene, three years ago. However, the number of quality venues is on the rise again. The Hopetoun Hotel, 416 Bourke Street, and the Annandale Hotel, 17 Parramatta Road, are the best centrally located venues for up-and-coming bands, while leading Australian and international acts perform at the Sydney Entertainment Centre, Harbour Street, the Metro, 624 George Street, and the Newtown RSL, 52 Enmore Road. Jazz fans can find world-class performers at the Basement, 29 Reiby Place, and the Harbourside Brasserie, Pier One, Hickson Road. Cabaret: The full-throated local cabaret scene has launched many international successes, such as Judi Connelli, David Campbell and Kane Alexander. Cafe Nine, 37 Ultimo Road, and Woodfire Cabaret Restaurant, 459 New South Head Road, Double Bay, are the leading venues. City Statistics Location: New South Wales, Australia. Country dialling code: 61. Population: 4,140,820 (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: 61% white Australian of European descent, 4.7% British, 3% Chinese, 2.1% New Zealand, 1.5% Vietnamese, 1.3% Lebanese, 1.2% Italian, 1% indigenous Australian, 0.9% Indian, 0.8% Greek, 22.5% other Religion: 30.4% Catholic, 21.9% Anglican, 4.5% Uniting Church, 4.4% Orthodox, 3.3% Presbyterian and Reformed, 2.6% Islam, 2% Buddhism, 1.6% Baptist, 0.8% Hindu, 0.8% Jewish, 27.7% other or no religion. Time zone: GMT + 10 (GMT + 11 from last Sunday in October to Saturday before last Sunday in March). Electricity: 220-240 volts AC, 50Hz; flat three-pin plugs. Average January temp: 25°C (78°F). Average July temp: 16°C (61°F). Annual rainfall: 810mm (31.8 inches). Special Events Sydney Festival, open air concerts and theatre, Jan, various venues Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras, the world’s largest gay and lesbian festival, climaxing in a costume parade and all-night party 1 Feb-1 Mar, Oxford Street and Fox Studios in Moore Park Tropfest, short film festival, Mar, various venues Royal Easter Show, traditional farm show, mid-late Apr, Sydney Olympic Park Mercedes Australian Fashion Week Spring/Summer, May, Fox Studios Sydney Writers’ Festival, including panel discussions, lectures and readings by local and overseas authors, May, various venues Sydney Film Festival, early-mid-Jun, State Theatre City To Surf, 14km race open to the public, Aug, from the corner of College Street and Park Street, through the city to Bondi Beach Festival of the Winds, kite flying festival, Sep, Bondi Beach Manly Jazz Festival, early Oct, Manly Sleaze Ball, gay and lesbian theme party, early Oct, Fox Studios Gay Games, international games for gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender athletes with cultural festival, late Oct-early Nov, Olympic Park and various other venues Sculpture By The Sea, temporary art installed along the coastal walk, late Oct-early Nov, from Bondi to Tamarama Mercedes Australian Fashion Week Autumn/Winter, runway shows by leading Australian designers featuring international guests, Nov, Fox Studios Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race, the world-famous 2000km (1240-mile) yacht race from Sydney Harbour to Hobart, capital of Tasmania, 26 Dec, Sydney Harbour New Year’s Eve Party, extravagant fireworks display, 31 Dec, Sydney Harbour Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: A$1.80 33cl bottle of beer: A$2 Financial Times newspaper: A$8.50 36-exposure colour film: A$5.95 City-centre bus ticket: A$1.50 Adult football ticket: A$21.50 Three-course meal with wine/beer: A$66 1 Australian Dollar (A$1) = £0.38; US$0.61; C$0.91; €0.56 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.