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CANADACity Overview Canada’s ‘gateway to the Pacific Rim’ and third largest city, Vancouver is blessed with one of the most beautiful settings in the world. Ocean and mountains surround the city and expanses of tree-covered parkland fall within its boundaries. Vancouver is also the jumping-off point for exploring the spectacular scenery of British Columbia, from the islands and fjords of the Pacific Coast to the mountains of the interior, as it is located in the southwestern corner of the province, where the Fraser Valley meets the Georgia Strait. With the beauty of the natural environment and the city’s role as a haven for former hippies and counter-culture types, it is not too surprising that organisations such as Greenpeace and Adbusters sprang up here. But Vancouver is also the commercial and cultural heart of Canada’s West Coast and a major convention and tourist destination. Vancouver is often called ‘Lotusland’ by other Canadians, as much for its temperate climate as for its reputation for offering a laid-back and natural lifestyle. The city prides itself on its outdoorsy attitude and the recreational options – ranging from sea kayaking, in-line skating and mountain biking to snowboarding, skiing and winter camping – are part of what lures millions of visitors to the city and the surrounding area. Downtown Vancouver, with its historic Gastown and trendy Yaletown areas, is located on the Burrard Peninsula, as are the residential West End and Stanley Park with its dense cover of fir and cedar. The landmark Lions Gate Bridge links the city with North Vancouver and the North Shore Mountains across Burrard Inlet. The city’s large Chinatown and the multicultural Commercial Drive area lie to the east, while False Creek and the vibrant public spaces on Granville Island separate Downtown from the larger part of the city to the south. Vancouver’s many ethnic communities enliven the city, with everything from excellent restaurants to a diverse programme of cultural events. Numerous pathways follow the curves of the shoreline connecting up many of Vancouver’s distinctive neighbourhoods, such as Kitsilano and the West End, where pavement cafés and people-watching are de rigueur. The Lower Mainland was originally home to various First Nations peoples (belonging to the Coast Salish linguistic group) when George Vancouver explored the area in 1792. In the 1820s, European settlers set up a fur and salmon trading post at Fort Langley, east of present-day Vancouver. Gold rushes in 1858 bolstered the local population; the town itself grew around a sawmill and the transcontinental railway terminus. The city was known as Granville for a while but, in 1886, it was renamed Vancouver. For much of Vancouver’s history and even to a large extent today, the city’s economy has relied on resource-based industries (such as logging and mining) and the transhipment of goods from the rail terminus to ocean-going vessels. Tourism is increasingly a factor, especially after the success of Expo86 and with the rising popularity of Alaska-bound cruises that depart from the Canada Place Terminal. Vancouver enjoys a maritime climate, with mild winters and warm summers ensuring that the city is green throughout the year. Although winters can be notoriously rainy, there are often long periods of continuous sunshine in the summertime, when visitors come to explore the region’s natural beauty. Snowfall is rare in the city, although is more than adequate for the ski slopes on the mountains to the north. Getting There By Air Vancouver International Airport (YVR) Tel: (604) 276 6500 or 207 7077 (information). Fax: (604) 276 6505. Website: www.yvr.ca The airport is located 15km (nine miles) southwest of the city centre and is a major gateway between Pacific Rim and North American destinations. It serves over 15 million passengers annually, making it Canada’s second busiest airport. The international and domestic terminals are connected directly to one another. The South Terminal handles float plane and helicopter services, which are also available to the Downtown waterfront on Burrard Inlet. Major airlines: The national airline is Air Canada (tel: (888) 247 2262; website: www.aircanada.ca), which operates regional services under the Air Canada Jazz moniker and also runs a low-cost domestic airline, Tango (tel: (800) 315 1390; website: www.flytango.com). The low-cost airline, WestJet (tel: (888) 937 8538; website: www.westjet.com), operates flights between Vancouver and other destinations, mainly in western Canada. Among the 40 other carriers serving the airport are Air Transat, Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Japan Airlines, KLM, Lufthansa, Northwest Airlines, Qantas, Singapore Airlines and United Airlines. Approximate flight times to Vancouver: From London is 9 hours 40 minutes; from New York is 6 hours 25 minutes; from Los Angeles is 2 hours 40 minutes; from Toronto is 4 hours 50 minutes and from Sydney is 18 hours 30 minutes. Airport facilities: These include a hotel, duty-free and other shops, newspaper stands, restaurants, bars, nursery, bank, bureaux de change, ATMs, left luggage, Internet payphones, DVD rentals, chapel, hair salon, health spa and visitor information. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Hertz, National and Thrifty. Business facilities: In addition to airline lounges, there is the CDS Business Centre (tel: (604) 303 4500; fax: (604) 303 4512) in the international terminal. Services include fax, photocopying and computer workstations. Arrival/departure tax: An airport improvement fee (AIF) is payable upon departure – C$5 for flights within British Columbia, C$10 to North America and C$15 for the rest of the world. Other departure taxes are included in the ticket price. Transport to the city: The Greater Vancouver Transportation Authority, under the name TransLink (tel: (604) 953 3333; website: www.translink.bc.ca), operates city buses and the Sky Train, which combine to provide a convenient route into the city centre from the airport. Bus 424 operates a service 0530-2445 Monday-Friday, to the Airport Station bus terminal, with frequent connections to the 98B express bus, which runs 0427-0119, stopping at Downtown SkyTrain stations (total journey time – 45 minutes). Bus 100 travels from the Airport Station to 22nd Street SkyTrain Station. Departures are every seven-eight minutes at peak times and every 15 minutes evenings and weekends. The fare is C$2-4. A coach service to Downtown Vancouver hotels and the main bus depot is provided by Airporter (tel: (604) 946 8866 or (800) 668 3141) every 15 minutes 0630-2130, then every half an hour until 2410 (journey time – 25-45 minutes). Fares cost C$12 one way and C$18 return (concessions are available). Coaches are also available to Seattle, Victoria and Whistler. The taxi fare to Downtown is approximately C$25-30 (journey time – 25 minutes). A limousine service is also available from Limojet Gold (tel: (604) 273 1331; website: www.limojetgold.com) for a flat rate of C$32 to the city centre. Getting There By Water The Port of Vancouver is looked after by the Vancouver Port Authority (tel: (604) 665 9000; fax: 604.665.9007; e-mail: public_affairs@portvancouver.com; website: www.portvancouver.com) and is one of the busiest ports in North America. Although most of the traffic is cargo, a dozen cruise lines operate over 300 trips to Alaska, carrying more than one million passengers per year. The port contains two passenger terminals. The Downtown Canada Place Terminal offers restaurants, hotels and left-luggage facilities, while Ballantyne Terminal, about two kilometres (just over one mile) to the east, has fewer facilities, with food and drink concessions. Ferry services: Scheduled services from Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and the Sunshine Coast are offered by BC Ferries (tel: (250) 386 3431 or (888) 223 3779; website: www.bcferries.com). The major routes from Vancouver Island are Victoria–Vancouver, with ferries sailing between Swartz Bay and Tsawassen (journey time – 1 hour 35 minutes), and Nanaimo–Vancouver, with ferries arriving at either the Horseshoe Bay or Tsawassen terminals (journey time – 1 hour 35 minutes or 2 hours respectively). Pods of orcas (killer whales) can sometimes be seen on the trip from Victoria. Transport to the city: Canada Place Terminal is a short walk from Waterfront SkyTrain Station and the main shopping and hotel districts. Taxis are readily available at Ballantyne Terminal and all westbound buses on Powell Street and Hastings Street (a few blocks south of the pier) lead Downtown. A free shuttle bus connects the two terminals. From Tsawassen, foot passengers can book a seat on Pacific Coach Lines (tel: (604) 662 8074; website: www.pacificcoach.com) to the main bus terminal. Public transit is available on bus 640, which leads to Scott Road SkyTrain Station (journey time – 50 minutes), a half-hour journey on the SkyTrain from Downtown. However, it is faster to transfer at Ladner Travellers should transfer to bus 601 for Downtown destinations (journey time – 1 hour). From Horseshoe Bay, express bus 257 (journey time – 40 minutes) and bus 250 (journey time – 55 minutes) both travel directly to Downtown Vancouver. Getting There By Road A system of provincial highways links Vancouver with cities in the Lower Mainland and the Sunshine Coast, as well as the US border. Traffic drives on the right. Road signs are international. Maximum speed limits are 100kph (62mph) on motorways, 80kph (50mph) on rural highways and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. It is legal to turn right at a red light. An International Driving Permit is recommended, although it is not legally required. Visitors to British Columbia may drive on their national driving licences for up to six months and third party legal liability insurance is required. The minimum driving age is 16 years. There are often random road checks to catch intoxicated drivers; the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%, although drivers may be charged with driving under the influence at any blood-alcohol level. Seatbelts are compulsory for all passengers. Radar detection devices are strictly prohibited and may not be carried in automobiles. Although there is very little snowfall in Vancouver, it can be heavy throughout the rest of the province in the winter: snow tyres (and chains in mountainous regions) are a necessity. Information on road conditions is available from the Ministry of Transportation and Highways (tel: (604) 299 9000, ext 7623 or (900) 565 4997, C$0.75 per minute; website: www.gov.bc.ca/tran). The British Columbia Automobile Association (BCAA) offers travel planning, insurance and other services to motorists (tel: (604) 268 5555; website: www.bcaa.com). Emergency breakdown services: BCAA (604) 293 2222 (Lower Mainland only) CAA/AAA (800) 222 4357 Routes to the city: The Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1) passes through the Rockies on its way from Calgary and the rest of Canada. From Seattle, Interstate 5 becomes Highway 99 at the border; north of Vancouver, Highway 99 is known as the Sea to Sky Highway and follows the coast from Whistler to the city. Ferries from Vancouver Island arrive at Tsawassan or Horseshoe Bay ferry terminals, which are linked to Vancouver via Highway 99, to the south and north of the city respectively. Victoria is reachable via the Swartz Bay–Tsawassan ferry. Approximate driving times to Vancouver: From Whistler – 2 hours; Victoria – 2 hours 30 minutes (including ferry crossing); Seattle – 3 hours; Calgary – 11 hours 30 minutes. Coach services: Pacific Central Station is the main coach station and is directly adjacent to the main rail station at 1150 Station Street (see Getting There By Rail). A number of carriers operate from the station, each covering different routes. Greyhound Canada (tel: (604) 482 8747 or (800) 661 8747; website: www.greyhound.ca) runs frequent services from destinations within the province (including Nanaimo and Whistler) and further afield. Pacific Coach Lines (tel: (604) 662 8074 or (800) 661 1725; website: www.pacificcoach.com) operates a daily service from Victoria at least every two hours (journey time – 3 hours 30 minutes). Western Trailways (tel: (604) 940 5561 or (877) 940 5561; website: www.trailways.com), Quick Shuttle (tel: (604) 940 4428 or (800) 665 2122; website: www.quickcoach.com) and US-based Greyhound (tel: (800) 229 9424; website: www.greyhound.com) offer services from Seattle (journey time – about 4 hours). Getting There By Rail VIA Rail (tel: (888) 842 7245; website: www.viarail.ca) is the national rail service provider. The infrequent rail services are generally reliable and standards within the carriages are high. A large number of passengers choose rail for the scenic trip, rather than to get from A to B. Pacific Central Station is the terminus for the main transcontinental lines. It is located at 1150 Station Street, adjacent to the main coach station. Facilities include bureau de change, food and drink concessions, gift shop and newsagents. Services on the coastal line (such as trains from Whistler) terminate at the BC Rail Station at 1311 West First Street in North Vancouver. Rail services: VIA Rail operates the transcontinental Canadian service. This thrice-weekly train passes through Winnipeg, Edmonton and Jasper on its three-day journey from Toronto. Both economy and first-class services are available. BC Rail (tel: (604) 984 5246 or (800) 663 8238; website: www.bcrail.com/bcrpass) offers rail services from Squamish, Whistler and as far north as Prince George. Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrakcascades.com) provides a daily service from Seattle (journey time – 4 hours). A service from Calgary is offered by the privately run Rocky Mountaineer (tel: (604) 606 7245 or (800) 665 7245; website: www.rockymountaineer.com), with an overnight stop in Kamloops so that the entire rail journey through the scenic Rockies is in daylight. The thrice-weekly service runs from mid-April to mid-October and advance reservations are required. Transport to the city: Pacific Central Station is located next to the Main Street/Science World SkyTrain Station. Buses 3, 8 and 19 (northbound) all lead to Downtown. A taxi ride to Downtown will cost approximately C$8. Getting Around Public Transport The Greater Vancouver Transportation Authority, under the name TransLink (tel: (604) 953 3333; website: www.translink.bc.ca), operates city buses and the Sky Train, SeaBus and West Coast Express services. A regular bus service runs from approximately 0500-2400 and is supplemented by the limited ‘Owl’ night bus service. Vancouver’s clean and efficient SkyTrain (website: www.rapidtransit.bc.ca) is a metro system with four underground stops Downtown and an elevated track for the rest of its 28km (17-mile) journey to the suburb of Surrey. Trains on the new Millennium Line run along the existing Expo Line from Waterfront Station to Columbia Station, before branching off for the eastern suburbs and then looping back to connect with the Expo Line at Broadway/Commercial Drive Station. Trains depart every two to four minutes, 0600-2410. Transfers can be made at most stations to the reasonably priced bus services and at Waterfront Station to the SeaBus, a catamaran ferry that connects Downtown with North Vancouver every 15 minutes during the day and 30 minutes in the evening (journey time – 12 minutes). Fares for all three modes of transport are based on a zone system – C$2 for one zone or for any number of zones after 1830 on weekdays and all day Saturday and Sunday, C$3 for two zones and C$4 for three zones. Transfers are valid for 90 minutes from the start of the journey. Exact change is required on buses, while tickets for the SkyTrain and SeaBus are available for purchase at ticket windows and machines. Tickets must be validated before entering the fare zone. Day passes valid for all of the above modes of transport are available for C$8. A book of ten tickets are available for purchase from the ticket windows for C$18 (for zone one – fares are higher for outer zones). Other transportation options include the West Coast Express, a commuter rail service connecting Waterfront SkyTrain Station with a number of cities in the Fraser Valley. The Downtown Historic Railway links Granville Island with Science World on summer weekends (1300-1700). A return trip costs C$2. Connecting a number of points on either side of False Creek are tiny passenger ferries operated by two private companies – Aquabus (tel: (604) 689 5858; website: www.aquabus.bc.ca) and False Creek Ferries (tel: (604) 684 7781; website: www.granvilleislandferries.bc.ca). Fares (C$2-8.50 one way) depend on the route travelled. Day passes are available for C$12. Taxis Taxis are readily available at taxi stands or by telephone and can easily be hailed in the Downtown area, although can be difficult to find elsewhere in the city. The main taxi firms are Yellow Cab Company (tel: (604) 681 1111) and Black Top & Checker Cabs (tel: (604) 731 1111). Minivan taxis are available upon request. Fares start at C$2.30 and increase by C$1.35 per kilometre. A tip of 15% is customary. Limousines Limojet Gold (tel: (604) 273 1331 or (800) 278 8742; website: www.limojetgold.com) offers airport transfers to numerous destinations (including Whistler, for C$275 one way), as well as sedan cars and ultra-stretch limos for C$50-90 per hour and C$500-900 per 12-hour day respectively. Other providers include Classic Limousine (tel: (604) 267 1441; fax: (604) 267 1447), who charge C$60-75 per hour and Vancouver Limousine Service (tel: (604) 421 5585; website: www.vancouverlimos.com) at C$55-110 per hour. Driving in the City As Vancouver is spread out over a series of islands and peninsulas, the main traffic bottlenecks are the region’s many bridges, notably during rush hours (0700-0900 and 1600-1800). There are no highways in the centre of the city, so driving is slower and more time should be allowed to reach a destination. It is usually easier to take public transport and/or walk in Downtown Vancouver. Outside of Downtown, north–south roads are named Streets and east–west roads are numbered Avenues. It is easy to locate addresses on north–south streets by subtracting 16 from the beginning of the address, to find the corresponding block (for example, 2630 Main Street would be between Tenth and 11th Avenues). Ontario Street divides the city into East and West (all of Downtown’s streets are West). Parking is readily available in underground and multi-storey car parks in the Downtown area – parking lots are run by EasyPark Vancouver (website: www.easyparkvancouver.com). Prices vary depending on the location but are generally in the region of US$1-2 per hour and a US$3 flat rate for evening parking. Locations and rates are available on EasyPark’s website. Car Hire All the major car hire companies are represented in Vancouver. These include Alamo, 1132 West Georgia Street (tel: (604) 684 1401; website: www.alamo.com), Avis, 757 Hornby Street (tel: (604) 606 2868 or (800) 879 2847; website: www.avis.com), Budget BC, 501 West Georgia Street (tel: (604) 668 7000 or (800) 299 3199; website: www.bc.budget.com), National, 1130 West Georgia Street (tel: (604) 609 7150 or (800) 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com), and Thrifty, Pan Pacific Hotel, 999 Canada Place (tel: (604) 606 1695 or (800) 847 4389; website: www.thrifty.com). Rent-A-Wreck, 1349 Hornby Street (tel: (604) 688 0001 or (888) 665 3777; website: www.rentawreck.ca), is usually cheaper than the major providers. In general, an International Driving Permit is not required unless the driving licence is not in English. Drivers under 25 years of age may face certain restrictions and those aged 19-21 may have to pay a surcharge of around C$20 per day. All drivers are required to pay the Passenger Vehicle Rental Tax (C$1.50 per day) and there is a surcharge of 13.75% for airport rentals. Economy car rates start at around C$40 per day, not including taxes or incidentals. Those hiring a car should always check whether or not the minimum insurance requirements are included in the price of hire. For excursions into British Columbia’s wilderness, a motorcamper or motorhome (known as a recreational vehicle or RV) offers a great deal of flexibility. Westcoast Mountain Campers (tel: (604) 279 0550; fax: (604) 279 0527; website: www.wcmcampers.com) has rates starting at C$55 per day for a two-person camper in low season and up to C$214 per day for a five-person motorhome in peak season. Traveland RV Rentals (tel: (604) 530 8141 or (800) 513 9434; fax: (604) 530 9576; e-mail: travelandrv@telus.net; website: www.travelandrvcanada.com) is another option. Bicycle Hire The best place to hire a bicycle or the ever more popular in-line skates is around Robson Street and Denman Street, near Stanley Park. Bayshore Bicycle & Rollerblade Skate Rentals, 745 Denman Street (tel: (604) 688 2453; website: www.bayshorebikerentals.ca), is open daily 0900-2100 (0930-dusk in winter). Hire rates are C$5.60 per hour or C$19.80 for eight hours for 21-speed mountain bikes and C$5 an hour or C$18.50 for eight hours for in-line skates. Spokes Bicycle Rentals, 1798 West Georgia Street (tel: (604) 688 5141; website: www.vancouverbikerental.com), offers guided tours in summer, in addition to bicycle hire. Along the seawall and within Stanley Park, cyclists should watch for signs indicating if trails may be shared with pedestrians or are pedestrian-only. Elsewhere, the city has a well-marked system of bike paths, although hills and heavy traffic on the bridges may be challenging for inexperienced riders. Bicycle helmets are required by law and the same traffic rules for automobiles apply to cyclists. The City of Vancouver website (www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/engsvcs/transport/cycling) provides further information. Business Business Profile Vancouver’s central business district coincides with the main retail areas Downtown and is supplemented by eight regional town centres within the Greater Vancouver Regional District. Traditionally, Vancouver’s dominant industries have been in the primary sector, drawing on the vast wealth of resources in the province of British Columbia. Even today, the industries that represent the largest proportion of the 134 firms with head offices in Vancouver are in the forestry and mining sectors, followed by construction, food distribution, retail and financial services. The largest of these firms are Westcoast Energy, Finning International (heavy equipment), Telus (telecommunications), Teck Cominco (mining), HSBC (banking), Intrawest Corp (resort developers) and BC Hydro. Other important sectors include tourism and conventions, agriculture and export and transhipment industries, taking advantage of the city’s rail, road and sea connections. Vancouver’s port is one of North America’s busiest and one of the top 20 busiest in the world. More than 70 million tonnes of cargo (principally coal, grain, sulphur, potash and wood pulp) pass through the Port of Vancouver every year and a further 40 million tonnes through the district’s other two ports. The past years have seen an increase in film production in British Columbia and the majority of the C$1.1 billion spent in 2001 was in Vancouver and the Lower Mainland. Around 80% of the working population are employed in the service sector, with the bulk of the rest working in construction and primary industries. The seasonally adjusted unemployment rate in Vancouver was 8.3% in May 2002, compared to the average for the province at 9.5% and the national average of 7.7%. Business Etiquette Normal business courtesies should be observed in Vancouver, although Vancouverites are less formal than Europeans and tend to use first-name terms after initial introductions have been completed. Business cards are usually exchanged on meeting a colleague for the first time – and a compliment on Vancouver’s beauty is sure to be well received. Both men and women generally wear suits, although short-sleeved shirts are acceptable in summer. Appointments and punctuality for business meetings are naturally expected. Business hours are usually 0900-1700 weekdays, although may start or end an hour earlier or later, depending on the company. Lunch meetings are more common than breakfast meetings, however, these are rarely alcohol-fuelled affairs. Most business entertainment takes place in bars and restaurants and it is unusual for a business visitor to be invited into someone’s home. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Downtown Vancouver is a compact area full of activity, day and night. Robson Square is a focal point, with a series of landscaped terraces, a congress centre and the Vancouver Art Gallery. To the west lie the shops and restaurants of Robson Street, while to the southeast are the renovated warehouses of Yaletown, where trendy shops, galleries and restaurants continue to open up. A view of the mountains to the north of the city can be had from Canada Place, which houses the city’s convention centres and whose striking sail-like roof echoes its role as a cruise ship terminal. East of here lies Gastown – the reconstructed old centre of Vancouver – and Chinatown, the third largest in North America, where a variety of ethnic eating places and shops can be found. Beyond that, Commercial Drive offers a more alternative scene, interspersed with the older Italian cafés. Separating Downtown from Stanley Park is the West End, whose green and tranquil streets belie the fact that it has one of the highest population densities in North America. Denman Street typifies the lifestyle, with shops and cafés and a fantastic sunset view over English Bay. False Creek and Granville Island separate Downtown from the rest of Vancouver to the south. The University of British Columbia is much further to the west, beyond the now-gentrified, former hippie district of Kitsilano. Tourist Information Tourism Vancouver – Tourist Information Centre Waterfront Centre, Plaza Level, 200 Burrard Street Tel: (604) 683 2000. Fax: (604) 682 6839. E-mail: comments@tourismvancouver.com Website: www.tourismvancouver.com Opening hours: Daily 0830-1800 (mid-May-Aug); Mon-Fri 0830-1700, Sat 0900-1700 (Sep-mid-May). There are also tourist information centres in both terminals at the airport and at the Peace Arch border crossing (Highway 99). Information on travel throughout the province is available from Super, Natural British Columbia (tel: (250) 387 1642 or (800) 435 5622; website: www.hellobc.com). Passes There are no sightseeing passes currently available. However, printable discount coupons are available online (website: www.vancouverattractions.com). Key Attractions Stanley Park The ten-kilometre (six-mile) Seawall that circles Stanley Park (tel: (604) 257 8400) provides incredible ocean views for strollers, joggers, cyclists and in-line skaters. Sport equipment may be hired nearby. Stanley Park Horse-drawn Tours (tel: (604) 681 5115; website: www.stanleyparktours.com) offers one-hour tours every half an hour, from mid-March to late October, for C$18.65 (concessions are available). The departure point is near the park’s Georgia Street entrance. The network of trails that crisscross the 400 hectares (1000 acres) of rainforest and parkland connects the Seawall and beaches with an open-air swimming pool, restaurants, a totem pole park and the Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre. The aquarium is home to West Coast marine life, as well as creatures from warmer climates. Daily whale and dolphin shows and the feeding of the sea otters are popular events. Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre Stanley Park Tel: (604) 659 3474. Fax: (604) 659 3515. E-mail: information@vanaqua.org Website: www.vanaqua.org Transport: Bus 23, 35 or 135; a free shuttle bus makes a circuit around Stanley Park in the summer. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1900 (late Jun-early Sep); daily 1000-1730 (early Sep-late Jun). Admission: C$14.95 (concessions available). Vancouver Art Gallery Housed in the former provincial courthouse, the gallery’s permanent collection includes a substantial number of paintings by Emily Carr, whose naturalistic style echoes that of the Group of Seven (the name given to a group of early 20th-century painters whose work highlighted Canada’s beauty). The permanent collection also includes works by Canadian and international artists and is supplemented by a variety of touring exhibitions. 750 Hornby Street Tel: (604) 662 4700 or 662 4719 (information). Fax: (604) 682 1086. Website: www.vanartgallery.bc.ca Transport: Granville SkyTrain Station; bus 5 or any Granville Street bus. Opening hours: Fri-Wed 1000-1730, Thurs 1000-2100 (Easter-Oct); Wed and Fri-Sun 1000-1730, Thurs 1000-2100 (Oct-Easter). Admission: C$12.50 (concessions available); by donation Thurs evening. Gastown Gastown, the reconstructed old centre of Vancouver, is a pleasant array of cobblestone streets, cafés and shops. It is named after Gassy Jack, a voluble saloon owner who offered the local mill-workers all the whisky they could drink if they helped construct his saloon – he was open for business the next day. Gastown is also the site of the unique Steam Clock, driven by steam from the system used to heat Downtown’s office buildings. Most tourists come here for the shopping – it is one of the best spots in the city in which to find souvenirs such as Inuit art and works by native Pacific Northwest artists. In summer, free 90-minute tours depart from the Gassy Jack statue in Maple Tree Square at 1400. Gastown Tel: (604) 683 5650. Website: www.gastown.org Transport: Waterfront SkyTrain Station; bus 1, 50. Chinatown Vancouver’s large Chinatown district is centred on Pender Street and Main Street, offering a kaleidoscope of colours and rich scents. A wide range of restaurants is the focus for morning dim sum and more elaborate evening meals. The night market (open Friday-Sunday, 1800-2400, from June-mid-September) is especially worth a visit. Chinese Canadians themselves are just as likely to shop in the southern suburb of Richmond, however, where there are a number of malls comprising mostly Asian shops. At the western edge of Chinatown, the Dr Sun Yat-Sen Garden was the first full-sized, classical Chinese garden to be built outside of China and offers an oasis from the gritty urbanity that surrounds it. Based on Ming Dynasty precepts, the combination of water, plants, limestone rock and pavilions has finely composed views and is suffused with symbolism. Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden 578 Carral Street Tel: (604) 689 7133 (information) or 662 3207 (bookings). Fax: (604) 682 4008. E-mail: sunyatsen@telus.net Website: www.vancouverchinesegarden.com Transport: Stadium SkyTrain Station; bus 19 or 22. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1900 (mid-Jun-Aug); daily 1000-1800 (Sep and May-mid-Jun); daily 1000-1630 (Oct-Apr). Admission: C$7.50, including guided tour and tea; C$8 from Jan 2003; concessions available. Granville Island Granville Island is home to a lively mix of entertainment and eating spots, shops and a large public market. Visitors can watch potters, weavers and glassblowers as they work, or stop by the sport-fishing, model boat or train museums. There are often concerts and outdoor events during the summer months. Visitors with children will appreciate the Kids’ Market and playground. The best way to get to Granville Island is an experience in itself – on one of the tiny ferryboats that connect various points along False Creek (see Getting Around). Granville Island Tel: (604) 666 5784 (information) or (604) 689 8447 (Kids’ Market). E-mail: info@granvilleisland.bc.ca Website: www.granvilleisland.com Transport: Bus 50; Downtown Historic Railway from Science World; Aquabus or False Creek Ferries. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (Information Centre and Public Market); daily 1000-1800 (Net Loft, Kids’ Market and Maritime Market). Admission: Free. Science World The distinctive silver geodesic dome at the end of False Creek houses Science World British Columbia – an interactive museum with a special appeal for children. However, the high quality of the exhibits, temporary exhibitions and fascinating demonstrations of science should keep audiences of all ages rapt. It is also the site of the Alcan OMNIMAX Theatre, with its enormous dome screen. 1455 Quebec Street Tel: (604) 443 7443. Fax: (604) 443 7430. Website: www.scienceworld.bc.ca Transport: Main Street/Science World SkyTrain Station; bus 3, 8 or 19; Downtown Historic Railway from Granville Island; Aquabus or False Creek Ferries. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1000-1800. Admission: C$12.75 (Science World); C$11.25 (OMNIMAX show); C$15.75 (combined ticket); concessions available. Vancouver Maritime Museum The Vancouver Maritime Museum chronicles the region’s rich maritime history with exhibits on everything ship-related, including the RCMP Arctic schooner St Roch (the first vessel to navigate the Northwest Passage from West to East) and working vessels in the Heritage Harbour. Sharing Vanier Park with the museum are the HR MacMillan Space Centre (website: www.hrmacmillanspacecentre.com) and the Vancouver Museum (website: www.vanmuseum.bc.ca). Major outdoor events take place in the park in summer. Vanier Park, 1905 Ogden Avenue Tel: (604) 257 8300. Fax: (604) 737 2621. E-mail: genvmm@vmm.bc.ca Website: www.vmm.bc.ca Transport: Bus 2 or 22 to Cornwall Street and Cypress Street; False Creek Ferries. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (mid-May-Sep); Tues-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700 (Sep-mid-May). Admission: C$8 (concessions available). UBC Botanical Garden and Nitobe Memorial Garden For nature lovers, there are two world-class gardens on the University of British Columbia campus – the UBC Botanical Garden and the delightful Nitobe Memorial Garden. The former is a 28-hectare (70-acre) collection of temperate plants from around the globe (with the largest collection of rhododendrons in Canada), while the latter is a traditional Japanese garden and a tranquil place for reflection. 6804 Southwest Marine Drive Tel: (604) 822 3928 or 822 9666 (information). Fax: (604) 822 2016. E-mail: botg@interchange.ubc.ca Website: www.ubcbotanicalgarden.org Transport: Bus 41 or 49 or any UBC-bound bus, then a 20-minute walk. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800. Admission: C$4.75 (UBC Botanical Garden); C$2.75 (Nitobe Memorial Garden); C$6 (combined ticket). Museum of Anthropology The Museum of Anthropology on the UBC campus is a striking building designed by Arthur Erickson for the purpose of displaying a collection of British Columbia’s First Nations heritage. The simple concrete forms allow the star attraction – totem poles – to stand out against the view of the ocean visible through the expanse of glass walls. 6393 Northwest Marine Drive Tel: (604) 822 5087 or 822 3825 (information). Fax: (604) 822 2974. Website: www.moa.ubc.ca Transport: Bus 44 or any UBC-bound bus, then a ten-minute walk. Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1700; Tues 1000-2100 (June-Aug); Wed-Mon 1100-1700; Tues 1100-2100 (Sep-May). Admission: C$7 (concessions available); free Tues 1700-2100. Further Distractions Grouse Mountain Just 20 minutes’ to the north of the city and clearly visible from almost anywhere in Downtown Vancouver, Grouse Mountain – as well as neighbours Cypress Mountain (website: http://wlapwww.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/cypress.htm or www.cypressmountain.com) and Mount Seymour (website: http://wlapwww.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/mtseymou.htm or www.mountseymour.com) – beckons the visitor. The mountains offer skiing opportunities in the winter and spring, and the chance to hike, mountain bike or even paraglide in summer. The SkyRide gondola offers a dramatic approach to Grouse Mountain – every 15 minutes the cable car makes the 1100m (3700ft) ascent. Rugged individuals usually do the ‘Grouse Grind’– a 90 to 120-minute hike up the slope – instead. At the top, trails branch out offering opportunities to explore, with impressive views of the city, ocean and mountains. Night-time skiing is a popular activity. There is also the Peak Chairlift, travelling right up to the 1250m (4100ft) summit with its 360-degree panoramic view. Grouse Mountain SkyRide & Ski Resort 6400 Nancy Greene Way Tel: (604) 984 0661. Fax: (604) 984 6360. Website: www.grousemountain.com Transport: Bus 232 or 236. Opening hours: Daily 0845-2200 (last return trip at 1230 or 2330). Admission: C$21.95 (SkyRide); C$35 (Peak Chairlift tickets valid 0900-2200); C$26 (Peak Chairlift tickets valid after 1600); free in summer (Peak Chairlift). Capilano Suspension Bridge High over the canyon to the west of Grouse Mountain is the Capilano Suspension Bridge, the world’s longest suspended footbridge at 140m (450ft) long, which offers a stomach-churning view into the gorge, some 70m (230ft) below. On-site attractions include a totem pole park, native carving centre and nature trails. 3735 Capilano Road, North Vancouver Tel: (604) 985 7474. Fax: (604) 985 7479. E-mail: info@capbridge.com Website: www.capbridge.com Transport: Bus 246; SeaBus then bus 236. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (winter); daily 0830-dusk (summer). Admission: C$10.25-13.95 (varies by season); concessions available; discount coupon on the website. VanDusen Botanical Gardens The VanDusen Botanical Gardens are home to a variety of beautiful and exotic plants, however, the main attraction for many visitors is the Elizabethan hedge maze, one of only six in North America. The best time for tourists to visit the gardens is during the month of December, when the grounds are lit by thousands of Christmas lights. 5251 Oak Street Tel: (604) 878 9274. Fax: (604) 266 4236. Website: www.vandusengarden.org Transport: Bus 17. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1600 (Oct-Mar); daily 1000-1800 (Apr and Sep); daily 1000-2000 (May and mid-Aug-early Sep); daily 1000-2100 (Jun-mid-Aug). Admission: C$7 (Apr-Sep); C$5 (Oct-Mar); concessions available. Tours of the City Walking Tours The most enjoyable place to walk, which visitors should not miss out on, is the Seawall, which runs around the edge of Stanley Park and continues along False Creek. For guided tours that put the modern city in perspective, Walkabout Historic Vancouver (tel: (604) 720 0006; e-mail: walkabout_van@telus.net; website: www.walkabouthistoricvancouver.com) offers three daily (at 0900, 1200 and 1500) two-hour walking tours, one of Downtown Vancouver and Gastown, and one of Granville Island. Tours cost C$18 and departure points are confirmed following reservation. The Architectural Institute of British Columbia (tel: (604) 683 8588; website: www.aibc.bc.ca) offers six different free guided tours, from June to August. These introduce visitors to Vancouver’s history through architecture. Tours take one and a half to two hours and depart at 1330. Departure locations vary depending on the tour taken and these are listed online. The Institute also offers a virtual tour on its website. Bus Tours There are numerous hop-on, hop-off bus tours in Vancouver, averaging two hours in length for a whole circuit. Options include Gray Line of Vancouver (tel: (604) 879 3363; website: www.grayline.ca/vancouver) for C$27 for a two-day ticket and The Vancouver Trolley Company (tel: (604) 801 5515 or (888) 451 5581; website: www.vancouvertrolley.com) for C$25. Both offer more extensive tours, as does Landsea Tours (tel: (604) 255 7272; fax: (604) 685 8960; website: www.vancouvertours.com), whose four-hour Vancouver City Highlights tour costs C$45. Gray Line and Trolley Company both have numerous stops around the city, however, the easiest place for tourists to catch one is in front of the Vancouver Art Gallery on Robson Square. Landsea Tours arranges hotel pick up. Other Tours Dinner cruises are available from Vancouver Champagne Cruises (tel: (604) 688 6625; website: www.champagnecruises.com). The three-hour cruise (usually 1730-2030) costs C$25 or C$59.95 with a buffet dinner – departures are from Granville Island. Harbour Cruises (tel: (604) 688 7246 or (800) 663 1500; website: www.boatcruises.com) is based at the north foot of Denman Street (near West Georgia Street). The company offers trips around the harbour for C$18, as well as lunch and sunset dinner cruises for C$49.95 and C$64.95 respectively. Harbour tours take one hour and 15 minutes and departures are at 1130, 1300, 1430 from mid-May to mid-September and 1430 only for the remainder of the year. Lunch tours are from 1100 to 1500 and dinner tours from 1900 to 2130. Kayak tours are available from English Bay or, for a more scenic trip, Lotusland Tours (tel: (604) 684 4922 or (800) 528 3531; website: www.lotuslandtours.com) drives participants out of the city for a four-hour kayak tour and salmon barbecue for C$145. They are also one of a number of companies offering whale-watching trips, costing C$145. Excursions For a Half Day Squamish: The town of Squamish lies one hour north of Vancouver on beautiful Howe Sound. The region offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing (notably on Smoke Bluffs) and, during winter, is the site of the largest gathering of bald eagles in North America. Nearby Shannon Falls has the third highest cascade in Canada at 335m (1099ft). From late May to late September, combined boat and train tours offer more of a full-day excursion. Visitors can travel aboard the Royal Hudson steam train run by BC Rail and return on the MV Britannia operated by Harbour Cruises (see Getting There By Rail and Tours of the City). The Travel Information Centre, 37950 Cleveland Avenue (between Victoria Street and Vancouver Street), in Squamish (tel: (604) 892 9244; website: www.squamishchamber.bc.ca or www.coastandmountains.bc.ca), provides further information. For a Whole Day British Columbia’s wilderness: Dozens of tour operators offer trips to explore British Columbia’s famed wilderness. Tourism Vancouver (see Sightseeing) can provide advice, as well as brochures for companies offering whale watching, whitewater rafting, ocean kayaking, hiking, floatplane tours, off-road expeditions, yacht charters and salmon fishing trips. Information about travel throughout the province is available from Super, Natural British Columbia (tel: (250) 387 1642 or (800) 435 5622; website: www.hellobc.com). Outdoorsy travellers can make their camping reservations online (website: www.discovercamping.ca). Whistler: This area north of Vancouver is a delight for naturalists during summer, while in winter it morphs into the most popular ski resort on the West Coast, with over 200 varied ski runs on Whistler and Blackcomb mountains, including the longest vertical in North America. The less-active traveller will appreciate the shops, dining and entertainment in pedestrian-only Whistler Village. Whistler is accessible by car or coach on Highway 99, the Sea to Sky Highway (journey time – 2 hours), by charter flights and by the daily BC Rail Cariboo Prospector service (journey time – 2 hours 45 minutes), costing C$69 for a return. Tourism Whistler is located at 4010 Whistler Way (tel: (604) 932 2394 or (800) 944 7853; website: www.mywhistler.com). Victoria: The capital of British Columbia lies 100km (62 miles) southwest of Vancouver. It is an elegant town with a British feel, distinguished by Victorian and neo-classical architecture. In the harbour area are the impressive Parliament Buildings and the Royal British Columbia Museum, which gives an overview of the region’s history. Not to be missed is afternoon tea in the Empress Hotel and the more than one million plants at Butchart Gardens on the city’s outskirts. Victoria is accessible in three hours, by road and a scenic ferry ride, with a Downtown-to-Downtown service offered by Pacific Coach Lines (tel: (604) 662 8074 or (800) 661 1725; website: www.pacificcoach.com). The fastest connection is by Helijet Airways (tel: (604) 273 1414 or (800) 665 4354; website: www.helijet.com; journey time – 35 minutes). West Coast Air (tel: (604) 606 6888; website: www.westcoastair.com) offers a trip by seaplane, with a return by coach and ferry for C$125. Further information is available from Tourism Victoria, 812 Wharf Street, on the Inner Harbour (tel: (250) 953 2033; website: www.tourismvictoria.com). Hotels A hotel tax of 10%, as well as GST (goods and services tax) of 7%, is added to all hotel bills in Vancouver. The prices quoted below do not include this 17% and are the starting prices for double rooms, excluding breakfast unless otherwise specified. Business The Coast Plaza Hotel and Suites This Canada Select four-and-a-half-star hotel is situated in the heart of Vancouver’s West End, with views of English Bay and Stanley Park. Close to the city’s many shopping outlets, restaurants and tourist attractions, this modern high-rise hotel comprises 267 rooms or suites – all with balconies and many with kitchenettes. All rooms have modem points, voice-mail and offer free local calls. It caters for smokers and non-smokers and its health club facilities include an exercise room, whirlpool and sauna, as well as squash courts and an indoor pool. Business travellers are well served with three floors dedicated to conference, meeting and banquet spaces, which can accommodate up to 1200 people. 1763 Comox Street Tel: (604) 688 7711. Fax: (604) 688 5934. E-mail: infoplazaVan@coasthotels.com Website: www.coasthotels.com Price: From C$219. Delta Pinnacle This Downtown hotel is situated near the Vancouver Convention and Exhibition Centre, cruise ship terminals and Robson Street shops and restaurants. Named the Pinnacle, because of its architectural shape, this modern hotel has 434 spacious rooms with splendid views from the large windows, as well as extensive facilities. Coffee-makers, irons and ironing boards, safes, hairdryers, full-sized desks, modem points and two telephones are on hand. The hotel has a designated business centre, in addition to meeting rooms, while the health club features a steam room, hot tub, gym and a 16m (52ft) indoor lap pool. In-room dining is available but guests are also welcome to use the restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. 1128 West Hastings Street Tel: (604) 684 1128. Fax: (604) 298 1128. E-mail: deltanet@deltahotels.com Website: www.deltahotels.com Price: From C$239. Metropolitan Hotel Awarded four diamonds by the AAA, this stylish and modern hotel in the heart of the finance, shopping and entertainment area, has 197 elegant guest rooms, with spacious marble bathrooms and separate shower, as well as 16 deluxe suites in contemporary design. Facilities in all rooms include cable TV, broadband Internet connection point, two-line telephones, voice-mail and a large work desk. Business travellers are well catered for, with special business-class rooms that have a fax, printer and ergonomic chair, as well as a business centre in the hotel. The restaurant, Diva at the Met (see Restaurants), serves international cuisine, while the hotel’s leisure facilities include an indoor pool, squash courts, saunas, whirlpool and a fitness room. 645 Howe Street Tel: (604) 687 1122. Fax: 642 7267. E-mail: reservations@van.metropolitan.com Website: www.metropolitan.com Price: From C$275. Renaissance Vancouver Hotel Harbourside With 439 deluxe guest rooms, this modern waterside hotel, near the Downtown financial district, offers fantastic views of the mountains and harbour. Each individually decorated room has cable TV, in-room coffee and mini-bar, voice-mail, modem point and full-sized work desks. Bathrooms have heated floors and hairdryers. Guests can also make use of the same-day laundry and valet services. Its relaxed restaurants offer meat, Pacific seafood, pasta and salad dishes and there is also a sports bar and casino on the premises. Leisure facilities include an indoor pool, whirlpool, sauna and fitness centre. Function rooms are available for conferences and business meetings and all catering requirements can be met. 1133 West Hastings Street Tel: (604) 689 9211. Fax: (604) 689 4358. Website: www.renaissancehotels.com Price: From C$249. Luxury The Sutton Place Hotel This Canada Select five-star, European-style hotel, located in the heart of Downtown, contains 397 rooms in a variety of sizes. Although outwardly Sutton Place is a modern high-rise hotel much like many other hotels in Vancouver, the atmosphere of the public areas is one of an opulent country house. Floral displays and period antiques add to the charming atmosphere. Also on offer is an impressive smattering of little touches – sometimes unusual – that include mini-bar, umbrella, bathrobes and in-room entertainment facilities. The health, beauty and fitness centre comes complete with an indoor pool and Jacuzzi. With a lounge and the Fleuri restaurant in the building, it is also a good place for relaxation as well as work. Every room has a modem point, fax and two-line telephone. There is the bonus of underground parking, which costs C$19.95 per day. 845 Burrard Street Tel: (604) 682 5511. Fax: (604) 682 5513. E-mail: info@vcr.suttonplace.com Website: www.suttonplace.com Price: From C$239. The Westin Bayshore Resort and Marina Overlooking Stanley Park, this modern resort-style hotel is a short walk from the main business district, shopping and entertainment centres. The hotel has accommodated famous guests such as Howard Hughes, Prince Charles and Tina Turner. All 510 guest rooms have floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors that open onto private balconies. Facilities include two-line telephones, voice-mail, complimentary Starbucks coffee, mini-bar and in-room movies. Some rooms also have high-speed Internet access. The rooms are spacious, with sophisticated furnishings and soothing earth tones. A business centre and 23 meeting rooms and conference space make it ideal for those conducting business in the city, while recreational activities are addressed with the hotel’s indoor and outdoor swimming pools, exercise equipment, sauna, steam room and massage treatments. Room and concierge services are both 24-hour, while in-room dining is provided in addition to the bar and restaurant. Guests can also make use of the complimentary Downtown shuttle service. 1601 Bayshore Drive Tel: (604) 682 3377. Fax: (604) 687 3102. E-mail: baysh@westin.com Website: www.westin.com Price: From C$259. Moderate Granville Island Hotel This Canada Select three-and-a-half-star hotel is situated on the famous Granville Island, removed from the hustle and bustle of city life and yet minutes from the Downtown area by the bridge or by water taxi. This luxury hotel has a distinctively refined and relaxed character – perfect for romantic getaways, as well as business trips – but is amazingly good value. Every room is furnished differently – wooden beams, Persian rugs and marble floors are some of the possibilities. Each room has voice-mail and modem point. Other facilities include meeting rooms, a rooftop Jacuzzi and health club, as well as a restaurant and bar. Smoking accommodation is available. 1253 Johnston Street, Granville Island Tel: (604) 683 7373. Fax: (604) 683 3061. E-mail: reservations@granvilleislandhotel.com Website: www.granvilleislandhotel.com Price: From C$110. Vancouver Airport Conference Resort Heavily geared towards the working guest, this modern business and leisure resort complex comprises The Ramada Plaza Hotel and the recently renovated Park Plaza Hotel and is situated in landscaped gardens not far from Vancouver International Airport. It offers easy access to the Downtown area and has numerous packages aimed at the frequent business traveller, as well as 25 function rooms to accommodate meetings and conventions. The rooms are bright and spacious, while, for relaxation, there are three pools and tennis and squash courts. In-room dining is possible round-the-clock, although meals can also be taken in the Reflections dining room or Beniha Restaurant. There are also lounges and bars. 10251 St Edwards Drive, Richmond The Ramada Plaza Hotel Vancouver Airport Tel: (604) 233 7711. Fax: (604) 276 1121. E-mail: mail@ramada.ca Website: www.ramada.ca The Park Plaza Hotel Vancouver Airport Tel: (604) 278 9611. Fax: (604) 276 1121. Website: www.parkhtls.com Price: From C$139 (including breakfast). Other Recommendations Listel Vancouver Priding itself on its commitment to art, comfort and elegance, this hotel is located on Robson Street, in one of Vancouver’s main shopping and entertainment areas. There are standard guest rooms suited to both the business and leisure traveller, as well as deluxe rooms. The rooms on the Museum Floor are fitted-out in a retro-modern style, with earthy colours, hemlock and cedar furnishings, forest-themed prints and ceramics, as well as textured leaf-print wallpaper. The Gallery Floor suites are more traditional inn style, with dark cherry wood furnishings, chaise lounges tucked in bay windows and original artwork in all rooms. Modem points and two-line telephones with voice-mail are features of all the rooms in this Canada Select four-and-a-half-star hotel. Other services include a twice-daily maid service and valet parking. A gym, indoor pool and Jacuzzi cater for fitness requirements and the hotel also boasts the well-known O’Doul’s Restaurant & Bar. Four fully equipped meeting rooms are also available, accommodating up to 100 people. 1300 Robson Street Tel: (604) 684 8461. Fax: (604) 684 7092. E-mail: reservations@listel-vancouver.com Website: www.listel-vancouver.com Price: From C$129. Pacific Palisades Hotel Situated on Robson Street in the heart of the Downtown area, this hotel is close to the city’s amenities and tourist attractions. The 233 rooms and suites are big and light, with various different bold contemporary designs. All rooms contain kitchenettes with microwaves, as well as cable TV and delightful touches, such as complimentary Starbucks coffee and a morning newspaper. For business travellers, there is plenty of workspace along with two-line telephones and high-speed Internet access. The hotel has a health club and indoor swimming pool, while services include 24-hour in-room dining service, a business service, a concierge and a valet. There is a restaurant and bar and the unique ‘Evening Wine Reception’ in the Art + Soul Gallery for all guests, so that they have an excuse to mingle, which encourages the continuing growth of the hotel’s feel-good atmosphere. 1277 Robson Street Tel: (604) 688 0461. Fax: (604) 688 4374. E-mail: reservations@pacificpalisadeshotel.com Website: www.pacificpalisadeshotel.com Price: From C$200. Restaurants We have selected 25 restaurants, which we have divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. Restaurant charges are subject to GST (7%) and liquor tax (10%), which are usually added to the bill at the end. Restaurant bills do not usually include a service charge, so a tip is expected. The very minimum would be 10%, with 15-20% given for good to exceptional service. The prices quoted below are for a three-course meal and for a bottle of house wine or equivalent; they do not include taxes or tip. Gastronomic C Restaurant This contemporary seafood restaurant serves inspirational cuisine in three dramatically designed spaces – a double-storey glass-fronted main dining room, an intimate mezzanine above for private dining and an outdoor patio with fantastic views over False Creek. The menu is extensive and luxurious, including caviar, a raw bar with oysters and some Asian-inspired salads, a taster box for C$35, as well as normal starters and mains, such as scallops wrapped in octopus and bacon. The wine list is also extensive and highly regarded, with many wines available by the glass. 2-1600 Howe Street Tel: (604) 681 1164. Fax: (604) 605 8263. E-mail: info@crestaurant.com Website: www.crestaurant.com Price: C$80. Wine: C$35. Diva At The Met This is a sophisticated restaurant, based in the Metropolitan Hotel, with an airy, spacious interior and a relaxed and refined atmosphere. Under the direction of Vancouver-born Executive Chef Chris Mills, Diva specialises in Pacific Northwest cuisine prepared with the finest local ingredients. Popular main courses include cinnamon smoked breast of duck, tarragon-crusted halibut and British Columbia striped prawns, or grilled wild sockeye salmon. Diva boasts the most extensive cheese selection of any Vancouver restaurant and one of the world’s leading pastry chefs, Thomas Haas, whose upside-down chocolate soufflé with milk chocolate glaze and pistachio ice cream is out of this world. The wine list also comprises some of British Columbia’s best offerings. The Metropolitan Hotel, 645 Howe Street Tel: (604) 602 7788. Fax: (604) 643 7267. E-mail: reservations@divamet.com Website: www.metropolitan.com Price: C$57. Wine: C$30. Lumière Restaurant This elegant restaurant is located 20 minutes from the airport and ten minutes from Downtown in Kitsilano. With attentive service, Lumière offers modern French cuisine with Asian influences, alongside classics like foie gras and caviar. The Tasting Bar is New York chic and offers selections of small menu items for C$25-C$40. The seafood one is especially not to be missed. Popular mains include roasted wild black bass in a casserole, with black trumpet and yellow foot mushrooms, or black truffles and seared Alaska scallops with leek and mascarpone ravioli. The restaurant is closed on Monday. 2551 West Broadway, Kitsilano Tel: (604) 739 8185. Fax: (604) 739 8139. E-mail: lumiere@relaischateaux.com Website: www.lumiere.ca Price: C$90-110. Wine: C$47. Piccolo Mondo Ristorante This little-known Italian restaurant is dedicated to the serving of fine and authentic foods. Its elegant setting, with white tablecloths and stunning flower arrangements, is warm and pleasant. The menu, although small, highlights the intense flavours of Northern Italy. Only the best and finest ingredients are used in the preparation of the dishes, such as spaghettini with smoked black Alaska cod in a mustard vinaigrette or seared beef tenderloin with walnut pesto. 850 Thurlow Street Tel: (604) 688 1633. Fax: (604) 682 4875. Website: www.piccolomondoristorante.com Price: C$50. Wine: C$25. Tojo’s Restaurant Tojo-san is known as the man who invented the BC Roll (barbecued salmon skin and cucumber) and inside-out crab and avocado (often called the Californian Roll), two dishes that are now as vital to the area’s sushi kitchens as wasabe. The cuisine is rooted in classical Japanese cooking with a heavy emphasis on innovation, organic ingredients and local Pacific Northwest specialities. Vegetarian sushi and cooked food are also available as are teriyaki, tempura, sashimi, sushi and various rolls. Omakase (the chef’s arrangement) is the best way to enjoy Tojo’s. – at a price of C$50, C$75 or C$100 (or more), Tojo-san will create a very special entire meal based on your preferences, his inspiration and market-fresh ingredients. The window views are of the North Shore Mountains framing the Downtown area – but for those preferring chat to vistas, the sushi chefs will provide cheerful banter and private tatami rooms are available. 202-777 West Broadway Tel: (604) 872 8050. Fax: (604) 872 8060. E-mail: info@tojos.com Website: www.tojos.com Price: C$40. Wine: C$24. Business Aqua Riva This spacious restaurant, dominated by bold murals and a curved bar, has a window-wrapped vibrant setting, with mountain and harbour views. Just a five- to ten-minute walk from the major Downtown hotels, Aqua Riva is a highly regarded rotisserie and grill kitchen. Specialities include wood-roasted halibut, spit-roasted leg of lamb and fresh salmon from the grill. High-profile political figures often choose to dine here. 200 Granville Street Tel: (604) 683 5599. Fax: (604) 683 7551. E-mail: dinner@aquariva.com Website: www.aquariva.com Price: C$45. Wine: C$27. Bacchus Restaurant Located in the city’s Wedgewood Hotel, this award-winning restaurant aims to offer a ‘truly Epicurian experience’ complemented by live entertainment in the elegant piano lounge. The restaurant is also known for its exceptional weekend brunches and traditional afternoon tea, also served at the weekend. Famous people who have put in an appearance include Al Pacino, Hilary Swank and Robin Williams. The cuisine is French and fairly meat-based, with dishes such as coq au vin or grilled fillet of aged Angus beef with pomme galette and truffle jus. Wedgewood Hotel, 845 Hornby Street Tel: (604) 608 5319. Fax: (604) 608 5348. E-mail: info@wedgewoodhotel.com Website: www.wedgewoodhotel.com Price: C$60. Wine: C$32.50. Caffe de Medici The atmosphere is business-like by day and romantic by night in this elegant Italian restaurant, with beautiful tapestries and oil paintings, an Italian-style moulded ceilings, chandeliers, a tiled floor and a marbled bar. Caffe de Medici has won many awards for quality service and an outstanding wine list. Staff provide a personalised service by always being on hand and happily making recommendations. The food is colourful and rich and the menu covers antipasto, salads, soups, pasta and main courses, such as rack of lamb with a fresh herb crust and celeriac. The desserts, such as tiramisu or chocolate torte, are exquisite. 109-1025 Robson Street (Robson Galleria) Tel: (604) 669 9322. Fax: (604) 669 3771. E-mail: yourhost@caffedemedici.com Website: www.caffedemedici.com Price: C$60. Wine: C$25. Chartwell Based in the Four Seasons Hotel, this first-class restaurant has been designed to resemble Sir Winston Churchill’s summer home, Chartwell, with oak panelling, scenic murals and warming fireplaces. The menu varies quarterly but the wines and the ‘seasonal producer’ dinners (when local farmers showcase their fresh produce) are considered to be some of the best in the city. Sample dishes include roasted lamb loin with sautéed vegetables, Nova Scotia lobster in a cassoulet, and Arctic char with celery-root tortelloni and garlic spinach. Four Seasons Hotel, 791 West Georgia Street Tel: (604) 844 6715 or 689 9333. Fax: (604) 689 3466. E-mail: vcr.guest@fourseasons.com Website: www.fourseasons.com/vancouver Price: C$80. Wine: C$26. Hermitage Restaurant Hervé Martin, chef and owner of this restaurant, serves up some traditional French meals that include duck confit, steak tartare and pheasant. Patrons can dine outside on a private patio or enjoy the cosiness inside. Among the fine linen-clad tables, surrounded by antiques, guests can select from a wine list consisting of over 350 wines. Robson Galleria, 115-1025 Robson Street Tel: (604) 689 3237. Fax: (604) 689 3274. E-mail: info@thehermitagevancouver.com Website: www.thehermitagevancouver.com Price: C$50. Wine: C$26. Morton’s of Chicago: The Steakhouse Its menu is famed for its signature USDA prime, aged beef, as well as its fresh seafood and fish, including the fresh whole-baked Maine lobster that is flown in on a daily basis. Hand-picked vegetables, elegant desserts and crisp salads are also offered. Rich mahogany red panelling, artwork and pristine white tablecloths, together with fine wines and food displays, set the tone. Morton’s caters for special occasions and business meetings at no extra charge. 750 West Cordova Street Tel: (604) 915 5105. Fax: (604) 915 5131. E-mail: gm.mvc@mortons.com Website: www.mortons.com Price: C$70. Wine: C$36. Trendy The Cannery Seafood Restaurant Established in 1971, this award-winning restaurant on the docks of Vancouver’s Burrard Inlet east of Downtown is proud of its highly acclaimed seafood and extensive selection of wines. Magnificent views of the mountains and harbour have made this one of the city’s institutions. The eclectic decor resembles a rustic fish cannery and it has been mainly constructed from aged or antique materials and seagoing memorabilia – even the bar began life as a Steveston fishing shack. Yet it is still very elegant, with fine linen, china, silver and crystal. Although predominately fish dishes, such as seared Albacore tuna or seared Pacific salmon, there are meaty dishes, such as aged beef tenderloin, as well as a purely vegetarian choice. Free parking is available and reservations are recommended. There is no lunch served at the weekend. 2205 Commissioner Street Tel: (604) 254 9606. Fax: (604) 254 1820. E-mail: info@canneryseafood.com Website: www.canneryseafood.com Price: C$50. Wine: C$31. Cin Cin Ristorante & Bar This Italian restaurant has long been the recipient of many awards. Cin Cin is elegant dining but the original murals give it a warm, slightly rustic, feel. The seasonal menu comprises classic Italian dishes with strong French and Mediterranean influences, focused around the wood-fired oven and grill. Dishes can be as extravagant as the ‘AAA’ beef tenderloin, with simmered young carrots, tomato confit, potato gratin and a port and wine sauce, for C$36.50, however, Cin Cin also does pizzas from C$15.50. Reservations are advisable and no lunch is served at the weekend. 1154 Robson Street Tel: (604) 688 7338. Fax: (604) 688 7339. E-mail: cincin@direct.ca Website: www.cincin.net Price: C$45. Wine: C$24. Heron's Restaurant An oasis of calm and tranquillity, this stylish restaurant offers a comfortable and relaxing atmosphere with tremendous views of the North Shore Mountains and Vancouver Harbour. Chef Daryle Ryo Nagata prepares regional cuisine with the freshest, finest products available and also utilises the hotel’s 2100-square-foot herb garden. Two signature dishes are the cedar plank wild sockeye salmon with stuffed Dungeness crab, roesti potatoes and asparagus spears, or the baby spinach salad with warm maple-candied bacon, mushrooms and aged balsamic in an Asaigo Tuille. Famous diners have included Bryan Adams and Erin Brockovich. The Fairmont Waterfront Hotel, 900 Canada Place Way Tel: (604) 691 1818. Fax: (604) 691 1999. E-mail: thewaterfronthotel@fairmont.com Website: www.fairmont.com Price: C$45. Wine: C$31. O’Doul’s Restaurant & Bar Local jazz is the flavour of the night, when this restaurant and bar features some of Vancouver’s finest performers every evening. Service is gracious and the decor dramatic with sculptures and the presence of a 21m (68ft) bar. The menu is dominated by Pacific North West cuisine: pan-fried Fanny Bay oysters and halibut fillet with Mediterranean beurre noisette are just some possibilities. Also famed are O’Doul’s sizzling prime cuts of tenderloin, rib-eye and New York steaks. The Listel Vancouver Hotel, 1300 Robson Street (at Jervis) Tel: (604) 661 1400. Fax: (604) 684 7092. Website: www.odoulsrestaurant.com Price: C$40. Wine: C$28. Raincity Grill Situated in Vancouver’s West End, this urban bistro overlooks the beach, the park and English Bay. Its upscale modern decor gives it a casual atmosphere and welcoming attitude. The menu focuses on game, poultry, seafood and organic vegetables from British Columbia, Alberta, Washington State and Oregon. The Pacific Northwest cuisine includes a sprinkling of Oriental-style dishes, such as their phenomenal crispy Dungeness crab cake. Reservations are recommended. 1193 Denman Street Tel: (604) 685 7337. Fax: (604) 685 7362. E-mail: info@raincitygrill.com Website: www.raincitygrill.com Price: C$50. Wine: C$32. Budget Old Spaghetti Factory Established in Vancouver in 1970, this highly popular restaurant in Gastown is decorated in the style of a living museum – with historic artefacts adorning the walls. Cheerful and friendly staff serve up a great selection of fantastic pasta dishes – all accompanied by a salad or soup, sourdough bread, garlic butter, roasted coffee or hot tea and spumoni ice cream (chocolate, vanilla and pistachio flavour) at no extra charge. Dishes like New York steak or breast of chicken make for alternative choices. 53 Water Street, Gastown Tel: (604) 684 1288. Fax: (604) 684 8035. E-mail: admin@oldspaghettifactory.ca Website: www.oldspaghettifactory.ca Price: C$27. Wine: C$16.95. Pink Pearl Restaurant A Cantonese restaurant, near Chinatown, Pink Pearl features tanks of fresh fish, which inevitably end up forming a large part of the menu. Service comes complete with a smile and good dim sum is served daily. Other treats include stuffed dumplings, fried white turnip cakes and sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves. This is a good place for a family meal and there is free parking as well. 1132 East Hastings Street Tel: (604) 253 4316. Fax: (604) 253 8525. E-mail: info@pinkpearl.com Website: www.pinkpearl.com Price: C$23. Wine: C$20. Sun Sui Wah Seafood Restaurant Consistently voted the best in the city by food critics at the Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards, this posh Cantonese restaurant in a modern interior is a well-known place for its daily dim sum. The roast squab is particularly notable. Also on offer is fresh seafood, such as abalones, rock cods, geoducks, lobsters, prawns and giant Alaska king crabs. Diners select a live creature out of the fish tank and then choose the cooking style for their dish. 3888 Main Street, at 23rd Avenue Tel: (604) 872 8822. Fax: (604) 876 1638. Website: www.sunsuiwah.com Price: C$25. Wine: C$22. The Naam Winner of a great many awards, this 24-hour restaurant in Kitsilano specialises in vegetarian fare at very reasonable prices. Seated within the casual wooden interior, diners can choose from a range of foods that include salads, soups, Mexican dishes and vegetarian burgers. There is also a wide selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. The atmosphere is casual and relaxed. 2724 West Fourth Avenue, Kitsilano Tel: (604) 738 7151. Website: www.thenaam.com Price: C$19. Wine: C$17. Personal Recommendations Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House This San Francisco-styled restaurant has the traditional atmosphere of an American brasserie. Joe Fortes proudly boasts ‘Vancouver’s Best Oyster Bar’ and serves up to 13 fresh choices daily. Its mahogany and brass furnishings give it the comfortable feel of a gentleman’s club. Specialities include locally caught Pacific North West seafood and selected local meats grilled to perfection. An à la carte brunch is offered at weekends and the restaurant’s roof garden dining claims to be the best in the city. 777 Thurlow Street Tel: (604) 669 1940. Fax: (604) 669 4426. E-mail: joefortes@joefortes.ca Website: www.joefortes.ca Price: C$42. Wine: C$30. Le Crocodile A highly professional standard of service and sophisticated European atmosphere make this Alsatian restaurant an ideal location for a special event or celebration in Downtown Vancouver. The Franco-German influence is evident in the meals prepared by chef-owner Michel Jacob. A particular favourite menu meal is the savoury onion tart served with chilled Alsace Edelzwicker in green-stemmed glasses. 909 Burrard Street (entrance on Smithe Street) Tel: (604) 669 4298. Fax: (604) 669 4207. E-mail: lecrocodile@telus.net Website: www.lecrocodilerestaurant.com Price: C$75. Wine: C$35. Provence Marinaside As the name suggests, there is an obvious Provençal influence in the cuisine here and the ‘Marinaside’ is reflected in the floor to ceiling windows looking across False Creek and the emphasis on seafood in the menu. The casually elegant dining space is well suited to the young professionals of the nearby Yaletown district, who have already made it popular since its early 2002 opening. Antipasti, including a spicy merguez sausage with fennel in tomato sauce, provide a prelude for the excellent bouillabaisse with gruyère or seafood linguine topped with clams, mussels, grilled fish and prawns. For those who like to share, the rack of lamb or seafood platter are both worth lingering over. 1177 Marinaside Crescent Tel: (604) 681 4144. Fax: (604) 692 0720. E-mail: info@provencevancouver.com Website: www.provencevancouver.com Price: C$35. Wine: C$28. The Fish House Restaurant in Stanley Park Consistently praised, this wood-panelled restaurant is surrounded by lush gardens and forests (visible through the picture windows and from the patio seating) and very much lives up to its reputation as a ‘tranquil oasis in the city’. The chef, Karen Barnaby, has published a series of cookbooks and the menu changes three times a year. One perennial dish of note is the ahi tuna steak diane with classic green peppercorn sauce. Desserts, such as chocolate lava cake, add to the sense of sheer indulgence. Famous diners have included Sharon Stone and Robert De Niro. 8901 Stanley Park Drive Tel: (604) 681 7275. Fax: (604) 681 3137. E-mail: info@fishhousestanleypark.com Website: www.fishhousestanleypark.com Price: C$45. Wine: C$34. The Teahouse Restauratn in Stanley Park Located in Stanley Park, this quaint historical restaurant comprises of a series of light and airy dining rooms. No dress code applies for casual dining and the service is both professional and warm. The emphasis is on fresh, West Coast cuisine and lunch, brunch, afternoon dinner and high tea are all served. Popular dishes include the lobster ravioli tossed in cream and the Torta Milano – Belgian chocolate truffle torte with almond mascarpone mousse. Famous diners have included Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell, Rod Stewart and Jean Claude Van Damme. 7501 Stanley Park Drive Tel: (604) 669 3281. Fax: (604) 687 5662. E-mail: info@sequoiarestaurants.com Website: www.vancouverdine.com Price: C$40. Wine: C$22. Sport Football and ice hockey enjoy a firm following in Vancouver. The BC Lions (tel: (604) 589 7627; website: www.bclions.com), of the Canadian Football League, play at BC Place Stadium, 777 Pacific Boulevard (tel: (604) 669 2300; website: www.bcplacestadium.com). These Lions are not so fierce, however, trailing at fifth position in the 2002 Western Division CFL standings, behind the Edmonton Eskimos, Saskatchewan Roughriders, Winnipeg Blue Bombers and Calgary Stampeders. General Motors Place, 800 Griffiths Way, between Gerogia Street and Dunsmuir Street (tel: (604) 899 7400 or 7444), is home to the Vancouver Canucks (tel: (604) 899 4625 or (888) 672 2229; website: www.canucks.com) of the National Hockey League. The Canucks clinched the playoff berth in the 2002 Western Conference NHL standings, coming in second in its division, after Colorado and eighth overall in the NHL Conference Standings, making it into the playoffs. However, the future is shaky, seeing as the Canucks recently lost a top player, Andrew Cassels, to a much less formidable team, the Columbus Blue Jackets. The city and area also host the Molson Indy car race, PGA golf tournaments and World Cup downhill skiing. But Vancouverites are much more interested in participating in sports than watching them. Opportunities abound with wilderness, right on the city’s doorstep. Kayaks can be hired on English Bay, there are mountain bike trails near the University of British Columbia and on Seymour Mountain, hikers relish the Grouse Grind and rollerbladers can be found everywhere. In the Vancouver area, there is scuba diving, paragliding and rock climbing for the adventurous, while whale-watching, fishing and camping are less strenuous options. Further information is available from Tourism Vancouver – see Sightseeing. In the winter, snowboarders and downhill and cross-country skiers head for the slopes. There are easy runs on Seymour, Grouse and Cypress mountains, visible from the city, and it is possible to get a lot of runs in at world-class Whistler on a day trip. Vancouver and Whistler are jointly bidding to host the 2010 Winter Olympics. Tickets for sporting events are available from Ticketmaster’s Sportsline (tel: (604) 280 4400; website: www.ticketmaster.ca) and Show Time Tickets (tel: (604) 688 5000; website: www.showtimetickets.com). Fitness centres: Many Downtown hotels have fitness centres. There is also the YMCA of Greater Vancouver, 955 Burrard Street (tel: (604) 689 9622; website: www.vanymca.org). A C$10 day pass allows visitors access to two swimming pools, squash courts, a boxing room, gym with cardio and free weights, and a sauna and steamroom. Golf: Vancouver has some spectacular links, with stunning views of the ocean or mountains. General information is available online (website: www.golfvancouver.com and www.bcgolfguide.com). Furry Creek Golf and Country Club has an 18-hole, par-72 course, overlooking Howe Sound, just off the Sea to Sky Highway north of the city (tel: (604) 896 2224 or (888) 922 9462; website: www.furrycreekgolf.ca). Green fees vary (C$55-100), depending on the time of day and how far it is into the March-October season. A 35-minute drive south of Vancouver is the Morgan Creek Golf Course, 3500 Morgan Creek Way (tel: (604) 531 4653 or (800) 513 6555; website: www.morgancreekgolf.com). Green fees vary by day and season (C$55-90) and membership is not required. West Coast Golf Shuttle (tel: (604) 730 1032 or (888) 599 6800; website: www.golf-shuttle.com) provides transportation to both of the above courses, as well as to others, with all-inclusive packages starting at C$89 (C$105 in the high season). Mountaineering: Among the many outdoorsy options in the wilderness north of Vancouver are the mountaineering courses and trekking expeditions, organised by the Canada West Mountain School (tel: (604) 878 7007 or (888) 892 2266; website: www.themountainschool.com), a division of the not-for-profit Federation of Mountain Clubs of British Coloumbia. Skill levels, trip duration and prices vary. Skiing: Some of the best skiing in the world is available at Whistler-Blackcomb (tel: (604) 932 2394 or (800) 944 7853; website: www.tourismwhistler.com), only two hours north of Vancouver and accessible by scheduled coach and rail services, chartered air or by car. Lift tickets start at C$69 per day. Swimming: The best spots for summer swimming in Vancouver are free – at Jericho Beach, Kitsilano Beach (there is a salt-water pool here, for a fee) and, for those who dare to bare, Wreck Beach at the base of the bluffs near the University of British Columbia. There is a popular pool at Second Beach in Stanley Park, although it can become crowded with children. For serious lap swimmers, the Aquatic Centre, 1050 Beach Avenue, below the Burrard Bridge (tel: (604) 665 3424; website: www.parks.vancouver.bc.ca), is the city’s best choice. Rates are C$4.15 (concessions are available). Tennis: The Vancouver Board of Parks and Recreation (website: www.parks.vancouver.bc.ca) maintains 183 first-come first-served tennis courts within the city limits, including ten at Kitsilano Beach and 15 at Stanley Park. A further six courts at Stanley Park are available by reservation (tel: (604) 605 8224), May to August only. Court fees are C$4.50 per half hour. Shopping Chic Robson Street (website: www.robsonstreet.bc.ca) offers fashion boutiques, souvenir and speciality shops and, bizarrely, a fair number of Cuban cigar emporia. Yaletown is the shopping ground of Vancouver’s young and aspirational, with designer fashions, art galleries and trendy home decor shops. Other popular areas include Gastown, Chinatown and Granville Island, with its wonderful public market (see Key Attractions). Indoor shopping Downtown includes the Pacific Centre, Royal Centre and the Sinclair Centre, while Metrotown is a large suburban mall (with 500 shops and food outlets) connected to the SkyTrain station of the same name. For outdoors enthusiasts, the stretch of Broadway between Ontario Street and Cambie Street is a must – Mountain Equipment Co-op, 130 West Broadway (website: www.mec.ca), is the best known of the clutch of sporting goods stores here. When it comes to souvenir shopping, vacuum-packed British Columbia smoked salmon is a popular, easy-to-carry choice. The most original gifts, however, are Pacific Northwest and Inuit arts and crafts – soapstone sculptures, carved masks, totem poles, pottery, jewellery and prints. Galleries worth visiting include Circle Craft, an artists’ co-operative (website: www.circlecraft.net) and Eagle Spirit Gallery (website: www.eaglespiritgallery.com), both on Granville Island, Coastal Peoples Fine Arts Gallery, 1024 Mainland Street in Yaletown (website: www.coastalpeoples.com), the well-respected Marion Scott Gallery, 481 Howe Street (website: www.marionscottgallery.com), or one of the many galleries on Water Street in Gastown. Lovers of international contemporary art can try the Buschlen Mowatt Galleries, 1445 West Georgia Street (website: www.buschlenmowatt.com), or, more uniquely, can take longer to decide if they like a piece – works curated by the gallery hang in the rooms of the Listel Vancouver, 1300 Robson. South of Downtown, there are more than a dozen galleries on Granville Street between Fifth avenue and 14th avenue (website: www.southgranvillerise.com). The Art Guide to British Columbia (website: www.art-bc.com) provides more listings. Shops are generally open Monday to Saturday 0930/1000-1800 (until 2100 Thursday and Friday) and Sunday 1200-1700. There is a non-refundable provincial sales tax of 7.5% in addition to the 7% federal Goods & Services Tax (GST). Foreign visitors may claim a rebate of the GST paid on goods that they take out of Canada within 60 days of purchase as well as on short-term accommodation. The total pre-tax value, however, must exceed C$200, with a C$50 minimum for each individual invoice. The Canada Customs and Revenue Agency (tel: (902) 432 5608 or (800) 668 4748; website: www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca/visitors) provides further information and forms. A number of private companies will facilitate the process for a hefty fee. Culture Vancouver is a young city and it shows in the city’s cultural scene. While there are established companies in the traditional forms of classical music, opera, dance and theatre, none stand out in particular. It is the smaller outfits and the up-and-comers that make the cultural scene interesting and give a bit of an edge to things. Vancouver’s performing arts season generally runs from October to April. In summer, there are special concerts and numerous festivals. Information on performing arts can be found in The Georgia Straight (website: www.straight.com), a free weekly newspaper, and the Thursday editions of the daily newspapers (website: www.vancouversun.com). The Alliance for Arts and Culture, 938 Howe Street (Monday to Friday 0900-1700; tel: (604) 681 3535; website: www.allianceforarts.com), is a good source of information for drop-in visitors. Tickets can be purchased directly from the venues or from Ticketmaster’s Artsline (tel: (604) 280 3311; website: www.ticketmaster.ca) or Show Time Tickets (tel: (604) 688 5000; website: www.showtimetickets.com). Half-price tickets are available on the day of the performance, from Tickets Tonight, the booth in the tourist information centre, 200 Burrard Street (tel: (604) 684 2787; website: www.ticketstonight.ca). Music: Vancouver offers the full range of classical music, from large symphony and opera productions to intimate chamber groups and choral societies – notably the Vancouver Recital Society (tel: (604) 602 0363; website: www.vanrecital.com) and the Vancouver Cantata Singers (tel: (604) 921 8588; website: www.cantata.org). The Chan Centre for the Performing Arts, on the University of British Columbia campus (tel: (604) 822 2697; website: www.chancentre.com), has three stages, including the 1400-seat Chan Shun Concert Hall. The Orpheum Theatre, 601 Smithe Street (tel: (604) 665 3050; website: www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/theatres), hosts choral concerts and is the residence of the Vancouver Symphony Orchestra (tel: (604) 876 3434; website: www.vancouversymphony.ca). The Queen Elizabeth Theatre, 649 Cambie Street (tel: (604) 665 3050; website: www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/theatres), stages a variety of performance from classical to contemporary. It is also the home of Ballet BC (see below) and the Vancouver Opera (tel: (604) 683 0222; website: www.vanopera.bc.ca), the third largest opera company in Canada. Theatre: Vancouver has a lively theatre scene, with numerous community and student productions supplementing more than 30 permanent fixtures. Granville Island (tel: (604) 666.5784; website: www.granvilleisland.com) is home to the Arts Club Theatre’s MainStage, 1585 Johnston Street (tel: (604) 687 1644; fax: (604) 688 3273; e-mail: boxoffice@artsclub.com; website: www.artsclub.com), the Festival House, 1398 Cartwright Street (tel: (604) 685 6228), Waterfront Theatre, 1412 Cartwright Street (tel: (604) 685 6217), and Performance Works, 1218 Cartwright Street (tel: (604) 689 0926), as well as the antics of the comedy improvisation troupe, TheatreSports (tel: (604) 738 7013; e-mail: info@vtsl.com; website: www.vtsl.com) at the New Revue Stage, 1601 Johnston Street. The larger venues Downtown include Queen Elizabeth Theatre, 649 Cambie Street, and the adjacent Vancouver Playhouse, Hamilton Street and Dunsmuir Street, home of the Vancouver Playhouse Theatre Company (tel: (604) 873 3311; website: www.vancouverplayhouse.com), the largest regional theatre company in the province. Nearby, the former Ford Centre has finally reopened as The Centre in Vancouver for Performing Arts, 777 Homer Street (tel: (604) 602-0616; website: www.centreinvancouver.com), hosting large-scale theatrical productions and other events. Avant-garde theatre and dance can be seen at the Firehall Arts Centre, 280 East Cordova Street (tel: (604) 689 0926; website: www.firehallartscentre.org), to the east of Gastown. The annual Bard on the Beach Shakespeare festival (tel: (604) 739 0559; website: www.bardonthebeach.org) is a summer fixture in Vanier Park that runs from mid-June to late September. The Greater Vancouver Professional Theatre Alliance publishes a seasonal Theatre Guide (tel: (604) 608 6799; website: http://communicopia.net/app/services/calendar1/index.cfm). Dance: Vancouver is one of Canada’s most important dance centres, with around two dozen professional dance companies operating in the area, performing both classical and modern dance, as well as traditional Japanese and Chinese dance. The Scotiabank Dance Centre, 677 Davie Street (tel: (604) 606 6400; website: www.vkool.com/dancentre), is a useful resource. In July, the Dancing on the Edge festival (website: www.mcsquared.com/edge) gives dozens of independent choreographers from Canada and abroad a chance to show their stuff. Ballet British Columbia (tel: (604) 732 5003; website: www.balletbc.com) performs at the Queen Elizabeth Theatre, 649 Cambie Street (tel: (604) 665 3050). The Vancouver East Cultural Centre, 1895 Venables Street (tel: (604) 254 9578; website: www.vecc.bc.ca), known locally as ‘the Cultch’, is located in a former church and showcases contemporary dance, in addition to theatre and live music. The innovative Kokoro Dance Company (tel: (604) 662 7441; website: www.kokoro.bc.ca), inspired by butoh – a modern Japanese dance form – performs at various venues. Film: Vancouver is the third largest centre for film production in North America. Over 200 films and television series were filmed here in 2001. The city has stood in for many US cities in celluloid – including the first five seasons of The X-Files – but there have been no well known films that actually portray the city as itself. Both the industry and filmgoers attend the Vancouver International Film Festival (tel: (604) 683 3456 (information line, September-October only) or 685 0260; website: www.viff.org) in the autumn, when more than 300 films from some 50 countries are screened. The Out on Screen gay and lesbian film festival (tel: (604) 844 1615; website: www.outonscreen.com) takes place in August. Mainstream cinemas can be found on Granville Street, between Robson and Smithe, and at the new Cinemark Tinseltown, 88 West Pender Street (tel: (604) 806 0799; website: www.cinemark.com), with 12 screens and stadium seating. The Pacific Cinematheque, 1131 Howe Street (tel: (604) 688 8202; website: www.cinematheque.bc.ca), is the city’s main repertory cinema and offers numerous cross-cultural and multimedia events in addition to a wide range of film programming. Other independents include The Ridge, 3131 Arbutus (tel: (604) 738 6311; website: www.ridgetheatre.com), and more experimental works at Video-In, 1965 Main Street (tel: (604) 872 8337; website: www.video-in.com). Cultural events: Vancouver has a year-round programme of special events, festivals and sporting events. The year kicks off in January with the Polar Bear Swim, when hundreds of brave/foolish swimmers dash into the chilly waters of English Bay. The influence of the city’s Chinese community is felt during the Chinese New Year celebrations, generally in early February, and again with the Dragon Boat Festival in June, when teams of rowers compete in fiercely decorated boats. The summer sees events and festivals showcasing a variety of media, from jazz and chamber music to comedy and theatre, although two of the best festivals – the International Film Festival and International Writers’ (and Readers’) Festival – hold off until the cooler months of September and October. Literary Notes Some 1500 authors live in the province, including such popular authors as Douglas Coupland and the science-fiction writer, William Gibson. Both men captured a certain zeitgeist with their works. Coupland’s novel, Generation X (1991), about disaffected 20-somethings, gave birth to the moniker for the post-babyboom generation. Gibson, who produced Neuromancer (1984), was at the forefront of defining the cyberpunk ethos and envisioning a dystopian future based on where technology appears to be taking society. Evelyn Lau captured the city’s seamier side in her autobiographical Runaway: Diary of a Street Kid (1989). Nick Bantock of Griffin & Sabine (1991) fame lives on nearby Bowen Island, while WP Kinsella, whose Shoeless Joe (1982) was the basis for the film Field of Dreams (1989), lives just south of Vancouver. Other famous local writers include Bill Bisset, George Bowering and George Woodcock. One of the area’s earliest writers was the Native poet and performer, Pauline Johnson (also known as Tekahionwake), who settled in Vancouver in 1909 and published Legends of Vancouver (1911) two years later. Many of the city’s authors (as well as big-name authors from elsewhere) attend the Vancouver International Writers (& Readers) Festival (tel: (604) 681 6330; website: www.writersfest.bc.ca) in October. Nightlife Vancouver offers nightlife to suit all tastes, including nightclubs, pubs, lounges and karaoke bars. Popular areas for going out include Gastown, Yaletown and around Granville Street, which has become increasingly popular of late. The largest cluster of Vancouver’s gay establishments can be found in the Davie Village, on Davie Street west of Granville Street. In Vancouver, there are also a fair number of members-only clubs catering to all sorts of crowds (many of these have fairly lax membership policies but it is best to check ahead) and restaurants often double up as bars. Any of these may offer live music on some nights. The licensing laws recently have changed, with bars and clubs now allowed to serve alcohol until 0400, subject to local approval – individual venues may close earlier. The minimum drinking age is 19 years and the price of an average drink will set you back C$4-5. Entertainment listings can be found in the free weekly alternative paper, The Georgia Straight (website: www.straight.com), as well as in the Thursday edition of the daily Vancouver Sun (website: www.vancouversun.com). Information on the city’s gay and lesbian scene is available in the weekly Xtra West. A number of local websites (www.clubvibes.com, www.vancouverplus.ca and www.mybc.com/events) also have detailed venue and event listings. Bars: In Gastown, the Picadilly Pub (‘the Pic’ to the locals), 620 West Pender Street, is a popular spot and sometimes features live bands. Ginger Sixty Two is a hip new lounge at 1219 Granville Street. Other great spots to down a martini are Zin, 1277 Robson Street, and the classic Delilah’s, 1789 Comox Street, in the West End. Subeez, 891 Homer Street, draws a similar crowd for drinks and dinner in its funky, warehouse-like space. The city also has a couple of good brewpubs – Steamworks Brewing Company, 375 Water Street, in Gastown, and the Yaletown Brewing Company, 1111 Mainland Street. Facing each other across False Creek are The Riley Waterfront Café, 1661 Granville Street (below the bridge), and Bridges, on Granville Island – both fun spots in the summer. Also on Granville Island, the post-theatre crowd congregates at the Backstage Lounge, beside the Arts Club Theatre, Granville Island. East Vancouver has more of an alternative edge. Waazubee, 1622 Commercial Drive, is a favourite watering hole among the locals and it also serves reasonable meals. Bukowski’s Bar and Bistro, 1447 Commercial Drive, is a popular spot for beat poetry and also has occasional live bands. Café Deux Soleils, 2096 Commercial Drive, offers some folk and rock in the evenings. The pub-bars at the venerable Royal Hotel, 1025 Granville Street, and the Dufferin Hotel, 900 Seymour Street, offer a kitsch mix of cabaret-style entertainment to a mostly gay crowd, while The Fountainhead, 1025 Davie Street, is a more laid-back pub with street-side tables. Casinos: The Great Canadian Casino offers slot machines, card games and roulette at a number of locations, including one in the Renaissance Hotel Downtown, 1133 West Hastings Street (website: www.gcgaming.com), which is open 1200-0400. The Royal City Star Riverboat Casino, based at New Westminster Quay, on the Fraser River, near the New Westminster SkyTrain Station (website: www.royalcitystar.bc.ca), is a replica paddlewheeler with gaming tables and slots and is open 1000-0300, and until 0400 on Friday and Saturday. Admission is to those aged 19 years or older – passports are not required, although younger patrons may need ID to prove their age. Neither of the above casinos charges an admission fee or has a specific dress code. Clubs: For house, hip-hop and drum’n’bass, two of the hottest spots are both on Water Street in Gastown. Shine, at number 364, and Sonar, at number 66. Richards on Richards, 1036 Richards Street, has been drawing crowds for years and its two floors see some live acts in addition to the regular dance tunes. The Roxy, 932 Granville, also draws weekend clubbers for chart dance hits. Element Sound Lounge, located below the Georgia Street Bar and Grill, 801 West Georgia Street, draws a groovy professional crowd with its jazz and soul sounds. For gay visitors, The Odyssey, 1251 Howe Street, offers club hits and theme nights to a mostly male, younger crowd. Live music: The renovated Commodore Ballroom, 868 Granville Street, is a great place to catch established acts and well-known artists, who also play at the Queen Elizabeth, 649 Cambie Street, Orpheum, 601 Smithe Street, and Vogue, 918 Granville Street, theatres. The really big acts take over General Motors Place, 800 Griffiths Way, or even the BC Place Stadium, 777 Pacific Boulevard. For up-and-coming rock bands, The Brickyard (punk and alternative), 315 Carral Street, and the Railway Club (more mainstream), 579 Dunsmuir Street, are good bets. The Purple Onion Cabaret, 15 Water Street, offers live jazz in one room, in addition to the DJ sessions in the other. Live jazz is also played nightly at O’Douls, in the Listel Vancouver, 1300 Robson Street. The Yale, 1300 Granville Street, is considered the place for blues in Vancouver. City Statistics Location: British Columbia, Canada. Country dialling code: 1. Population: 545,671 (city); 1,986,695 (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix (by mother tongue): 65% English, 13% Chinese, 4% Punjabi, 2% German, 6% other European, 5% other Asian, 5% other. Religion: Not available. Time zone: GMT - 8 (Pacific Standard Time); GMT - 7 (from first Sunday in April to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 110 volts AC, 60Hz; regular two-pin and grounded three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: 3°C (37°F). Average July temp: 17°C (63°F). Annual rainfall: 1117mm (44.3 inches). Annual snowfall: 549mm (22 inches) Special Events Polar Bear Swim, annual swim in the icy winter waters, 1 Jan, English Bay Chinese New Year Celebration, 2 Feb (2003), Dr Sun Yat-Sen Garden Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, 24-30 Mar, Vancouver Convention and Exhibition Centre and various venues New Music West Festival, early May, various venues Vancouver International Children’s Festival, late May-early Jun, Vanier Park Dragon Boat Festival, mid-Jun, Plaza of Nations, False Creek Vancouver International Jazz Festival, 21-30 Jun, various venues Bard on the Beach, Jun-Sep, Vanier Park Dancing on the Edge Festival, independent choreographers, Jul, Firehall Arts Centre Tissot-UCI Mountain Bike World Cup, Jul, Grouse Mountain Vancouver Folk Music Festival, Jul, Jericho Beach Vancouver Chamber Music Festival, Jul-Aug, Crofton House School Vancouver International Comedy Festival, Jul-Aug, Granville Island Molson Indy Vancouver, CART auto racing, late Jul, Concord Pacific Place Vancouver Gay Pride Week, Jul-Aug, various venues Celebration of Light, fireworks, Wed and Sat, Jul/Aug, English Bay Festival Vancouver, opera, classical and world music, Aug, various venues Tall Ships Challenge, Aug, Historic Steveston Village, Richmond Out On Screen, gay and lesbian film festival, Aug, various venues Pacific National Exhibition (PNE), agricultural fair, amusement park and concerts, Aug-Sep, Hastings Park Air Canada Championship, PGA Tour, Aug-Sep, Northview Golf Course The Vancouver Fringe Festival, early-mid-Sep, various venues Whistler Comedy Festival, mid-late Sep, Whistler Vancouver International Film Festival, late Sep-mid-Oct, various cinemas Vancouver International Writers (& Readers) Festival, late Oct, Granville Island Christmas Carol Ship Parade, late Nov-23 Dec, Vancouver Harbour Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: C$1.50-C$2 33cl bottle of beer: C$1.50-C$2 Financial Times newspaper: C$2 36-exposure colour film: C$8.50 City-centre bus ticket: C$2 Adult Canadian football ticket: C$20-C$60 Three-course meal with wine/beer: From C$25 1 Canadian Dollar (C$1) = £0.41; US$0.67; A$1.10; €0.62 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Copyright © 2003 Columbus Travel Publishing Ltd.