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_City Overview Vienna (Wien) is a unique blend of the historic and the modern, so full of tradition, it can be read on the face of the city, yet with a forward-looking approach that will surprise the visitor. Vienna’s role as the seat of the Hapsburg Empire for centuries can be seen in the wealth of architecture and in the city’s artistic and musical heritage. Many of the world’s most important composers, including Beethoven and Mozart, have lived and performed behind Vienna’s Baroque façades. In addition to this Baroque splendour, there are excellent examples of the Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) architecture that also flourished here. The fall of the Hapsburg Empire, at the end of World War I, allowed Vienna’s socialist undercurrents to come to the fore during the ‘Red Vienna’ period, resulting in numerous social housing and other projects, which still play a role in the city. Vienna’s occupation by the Nazis and subsequent partitioning by the four Allied powers tend to be forgotten, as the city instead focuses on its post-war neutrality and the glittering remnants of its Imperial glory. This seems to be reinforced by the image of older Viennese walking small dogs or eating cakes in cafés but it ignores the energy of Vienna’s alternative and underground scenes, whose members react against the attachment to tradition in a way similar to their Secessionist counterparts a century before. Vienna is divided into 23 Bezirke (districts). The original city that lay within the protective walls comprises the First District of modern Vienna. The demolition of the city walls led to the construction of the Ringstrasse and an impressive parade of buildings along its length. The majority of the tourist attractions lie on and within the Ringstrasse. Districts two to nine are arrayed between the Ringstrasse and the concentric Gürtel (belt). The other districts lie beyond the Gürtel and extend into the foothills of the Wienerwald (Vienna Woods), where Heurigen (wine taverns) and pretty villages are dotted among the vineyards. Vienna’s climate is generally moderate, although the city can experience heavy snowfalls and low temperatures from December to March, as well as occasionally very high temperatures in July and August. Summer, however, is usually comfortable with an average daily temperature of 20°C. Heavy thundershowers are likely during the season, however. The city is not only the capital of Austria but also a federal province as well, surrounded by Niederösterreich (Lower Austria). Vienna’s location on the east–west trade route along the Danube River played an important part in its history – an empire that once covered a large part of Europe was ruled from here. Even today, Vienna is the financial and administrative capital of Austria, and home to a number of international organisations, including the United Nations. And with the fall of Communism, Vienna is once again at the centre of Europe. Language German is the official language and is spoken as a first language by almost the entire population. There are a number of variations between Hochdeutsch (standard German) and Viennese German, and there are also marked differences to other Austrian regional dialects. English is the most common second language, and is widely understood and spoken by those in tourism-related fields. When speaking to strangers, it is important to use the formal forms of address. The following characters are used in German, but not in English: ä (=ae), ö (=oe), ü (=ue) and ß (=ss). It is important to pay attention to the times of performances in Vienna – halb-acht (half-eight) means 0730; similarly, viertel-acht (quarter-eight) means 0715, a quarter of the way to eight o’clock. Phrases Yes - Ja No - Nein Hello (formal) - Grüß Gott Hello (informal) - Servus / Grüß dich Goodbye - Auf Wiedersehen / Auf Wiederschauen / Servus Please - Bitte Thank you - Danke My name is … - Ich heiße … How are you? - Wie geht es Ihnen? (formal) / Wie geht’s? (formal) I’m very well - Mir geht es gut / Sehr gut, danke I feel ill - Ich fühle mich unwohl How much does it cost? - Wieviel kostet das? / Wieviel macht das? Do you speak English? - Sprechen Sie Englisch? I don’t understand - Ich verstehe nicht Where is …? - Wo findet man …? Entrance - Eingang (Einfahrt for vehicles) Exit - Ausgang (Ausfahrt for vehicles) Danger - Achtung Open - Geöffnet Closed - Geschlossen Toilets - Toiletten / WC Doctor - Arzt / Ärztin Hotel - Hotel Restaurant - Restaurant Beer - Bier Wine - Wein Menu - Speisekarte Today - Heute Tomorrow - Morgen Monday - Montag Tuesday - Dienstag Wednesday - Mittwoch Thursday - Donnerstag Friday - Freitag Saturday - Samstag Sunday - Sonntag One - Eins Two - Zwei Three - Drei Four - Vier Five - Fünf Six - Sechs Seven - Sieben Eight - Acht Nine - Neun Ten - Zehn Twenty - Zwanzig Thirty - Dreissig Forty - Vierzig Fifty - Funfzig Sixty - Sechzig Seventy - Siebzig Eighty - Achtzig Ninety - Neunzig One Hundred - Einhundert One Thousand - Eintausend Getting There By Air Vienna International Airport (VIE) Tel: (01) 70070. Fax: (01) 25351. Website: www.viennaairport.com Austria’s main airport (Wien Schwechat) is located 18km (11 miles) southeast of the city. The airport handled 11.84 million passengers in 2001, travelling to destinations worldwide, including London, New York and Bangkok. Major airlines: The national carrier is Austrian Airlines (tel: (05) 1789; website: www.aua.com). Other Austrian airlines serving the airport include Lauda Air and Tyrolean. There are a number of international carriers including British Airways, CSA, Iberia, KLM – Royal Dutch Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines and Lufthansa. Approximate flight times to Vienna: From London is 2 hours 10 minutes; from New York is 8 hours 50 minutes; from Los Angeles is 12 hours 30 minutes; from Toronto is 8 hours 45 minutes and from Sydney is 22 hours 15 minutes. Airport facilities: The airport offers cafés, snack bars, restaurants and bars, as well as a grocery store, florists, pharmacies, newsagents, duty-free shops and boutiques. In addition, there is a 24-hour Medical Centre (including a vaccination centre) and a Wellness Centre (massage, showers, solarium and Wellness Bar). Car hire is available from ARAC Eurodollar, ATL Mietwagen, Avis, Budget, Denzel Europcar Interrent, Hertz and Sixt. Business facilities: The VIP & Business Centre (tel: (01) 7007 23300 or 23400 or 23406; fax: 7007 23250; e-mail: vip.vie@viennaaorport.com) organises events and press conferences. It also provides banqueting, photocopying and telex services. The Danube Aviator Club is a lounge for frequent users of Vienna Airport, with work space, telephone, modem, fax and message services, as well as an adjacent conference centre. The airport also offers 12 executive lounges. Arrival/departure tax: None. Transport to the city: Wiener Linien (tel: (01) 790 9105; website: www.wienerlinien.co.at) operates both an S-bahn commuter train and bus services from Vienna International Airport. For the next two years or so, the S-bahn line S7 will run to Südbahnhof and not Wien Mitte and Wien Nord, due to construction on the line. At Südbahnhof one can transfer to the S2 line for Wien Mitte and Wien Nord or take tram D for the city centre. The S-Bahn runs at least every half an hour 0500-2230 (journey time – 25 minutes). A single ticket costs €3 (plus €1.50 for onward travel on public transit). The A4 Airport Motorway and B9 main road connect the airport with the city. Buses depart from the airport to the City Air Terminal every 20-30 minutes 0530-0100 (journey time – 20 minutes). Other buses go to Südbahnhof and Westbahnhof rail stations approximately once an hour 0530-2310 (journey time – 20 and 35 minutes, respectively). A single ticket costs €5.80 or €5 with a Vienna Card (see Public Transport). Buses are also available to Bratislava (Slovak Republic) and Budapest (Hungary). Taxis to the city (journey time – 30 minutes) are metered but a fixed price of €35-40 to the city centre can be paid at the booking counter. The surcharge for luggage is €1 for 20-50kg and €2 for more than 50kg. For trips from the city to the airport, a charge of €10 may be added to the fare to cover the driver’s return cost. Limousines cost from €23 (journey time – 20 minutes). Getting There By Water Vienna is accessible from a number of cities along the Danube River, including Passau (Germany), Bratislava (Slovak Republic) and Budapest (Hungary). The Reichsbrücke Schiffahrtszentrum (Navigation Centre), near the Vorgartenstrasse U-Bahn station, is the main dock for passenger boats to and from Vienna. The centre has a café, restaurant with terrace, customs and shipping facilities. The smaller boat terminal near Schwedenplatz station is used only for local boat tours Queries should be directed to DDSG (tel: (01) 5888 0442; fax: (01) 5888 0440; e-mail: info@ddsg-blue-danube.at; website: www.ddsg-blue-danube.at). Ferry services: DDSG Blue Danube Schiffahrt GmbH (tel: (01) 5888 0442; fax: (01) 5888 0440; e-mail: info@ddsg-blue-danube.at; website: www.ddsg-blue-danube.at) offers hydrofoil crossings from Bratislava Wednesday to Sunday from May to October (journey time – 1 hour 45 minutes) for €19 one way or €29 return. Daily trips from Budapest are available from April to October for €65 one way or €89 return, with additional trips in July and August (journey time – 6 hours 20 minutes). Sailing from Vienna, a day return is only possible if one travels to Budapest by river and returs to Vienna by rail, which costs €96 return. A number of shorter cruise options are also available. Reservations are required. Transport to the city: The main terminal is Reichsbrücke, which is located near the Vorgartenstrasse U-Bahn station. The U1 U-Bahn (underground line) goes to Stephansplatz in the city centre. Schwedenplatz station, near the smaller boat terminal, is connected by lines U1 and U4. Getting There By Road Austria has an excellent network of roads, with Autobahnen (motorways indicated by an ‘A’) between major centres and connecting to the ‘E’ trans-European routes. Bundesstrassen (national roads) have a ‘B’ prefix. Traffic drives on the right. Speed limits are 130kph (81mph) on motorways, 100kph (62mph) on main roads and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. Tolls are payable on a number of mountain roads, tunnels, motorways and main roads. Toll stickers (vignette), which must be attached to the windscreen, are available for purchase for €7.60 (valid for ten days), €21.80 (for two months) or €72.60 (for one year) from tobacconists, border-crossing points, filling stations near the border and from automobile clubs ARBÖ (website: www.arboe.or.at) and ÖAMTC (website: www.oeamtc.at). The minimum driving age in Austria is 18 years and drivers must carry a European driving licence or an International Driving Permit. Third party insurance is mandatory. Seatbelts must be worn and children under 12 years old may not sit in the front seat. The legal maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08% (0.5mg per metre of blood, which is approximately one third of a litre of beer or one or two glasses of wine). Winter tyres are essential during the colder season and travellers who require snow chains can hire them at major border-crossing points. Information on road conditions is available in English daily 0600-2000 from the Austrian Automobile Club (tel: (01) 711 997; fax: (01) 713 1807). Regular road reports in German automatically interrupt the chosen radio station on car radios. Emergency breakdown services: ARBÖ 123 ÖAMTC 120 Routes to the city: The Westautobahn (A1) connects Vienna to Linz, Salzburg and Western Europe. The Südautobahn (A2) leads to Graz, Klagenfurt and the Italian border. The Ostautobahn (A4) passes the airport on its way to Bratislava and Budapest. The A22 connects the city to Prague, in the north. Approximate driving times to Vienna: From Linz – 2 hours; Budapest – 2 hours 35 minutes; Salzburg – 3 hours. Coach services: Eurolines Austria (tel: (01) 712 0453; fax: (01) 7120 45320; e-mail: info@eurolines.at; website: www.eurolines.at) offers coach services throughout Europe, departing from the Wien Mitte bus station, Landrasser Haupstrasse (on the U-Bahn Landstrasse/Wien Mitte). Coach services within Austria are operated in partnership with Blaguss Internationale Buslinien, Richard Strauss Strasse 21 (tel: (01) 610 900; fax: (01) 6109 0125; e-mail: office@blaguss.com). National services are also provided by Postbus (tel: (01) 794 440; e-mail: kundenservice@postbus.at; website: www.postbus.at) and a number of private operators. Timetable information (tel: (01) 71101) is available 0700-1900. Getting There By Rail Österreichischen Bundesbahnen or ÖBB (tel: (01) 58000; website: www.oebb.at) operates the 5800km (3600 miles) of rail network in Austria. In addition to the usual onboard services (restaurant and bar cars, snack trolleys and telephones), ÖBB offers mini-office compartments (with power points for laptop computers) and women-only compartments for those seeking hassle-free travel. The ÖBB also can arrange a pick-up service to greet passengers on the platform and conduct them to their hotels. In Vienna, this service is available at Wien Westbahnhof in association with the Arcotel Hotel Wimberger. Vienna’s major rail stations and their U-Bahn connections are Westbahnhof, Europaplatz, on the U3 and U6 (tel: (01) 5800 31060; fax: (01) 5800 25811), Südbahnhof, Südtirolerplatz, on the U1 (tel: (01) 5800 31050; fax: (01) 5800 25830), Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof, Franz-Josefs Platz, on the U4 (tel: (01) 5800 31020; fax: (01) 5800 25831), and Wien Mitte, Landstrasser Hauptstrasse 1, on the U3 and U4 (tel: (01) 5800 31070; fax: (01) 5800 25815). Facilities at most main stations include bicycle hire, gift shops and a door-to-door luggage service. Timetable information is available 24-hours a day (tel: 1717). Rail services: Intercity trains within Austria follow the main eastbound route from Bregenz to Vienna (journey time – 8-9 hours) via Innsbruck, Salzburg and Linz, or travel north from Graz (journey time – 2 hours 30 minutes) or Klagenfurt (journey time – 4 hours 30 minutes), via Bruck an der Mur. There are departures to the major cities at least once every two hours. Domestic rail services pass through breathtaking Alpine scenery but unfortunately this is bypassed by the majority of international services. Travellers should watch out for the stunning view of the Melk Abbey on the main line approaching Vienna from the west. There are international services from most Central and Eastern European capitals. Night trains are available from most Western European countries, including Paris (journey time – 14 hours) and Berlin (journey time – 11 hours) and from as far east as Moscow (although this journey takes one and a half days). Transport to the city: All of Vienna’s rails stations are connected to the underground network (see above), either directly or by a very short walk. Getting Around Public Transport The Vienna Transport Authority, Wiener Linien (tel: (01) 790 9105; website: www.wienerlinien.co.at), operates the U-Bahn (underground), S-Bahn (commuter rail), Strassenbahn (tram) and bus network. Public transport operates between 0500 and 2400. After midnight, half-hourly night buses radiate out from Schwedenplatz. The U-Bahn system comprises four lines. The U2 follows the Ringstrasse from Karlsplatz to Schottenring. The U4, with its Art Nouveau stations, completes the ring and leads off into the northern and western suburbs. The east–west U3 and north–south U1 cross in the centre of the Innerestadt (inner town). The U6 is basically a tram on a dedicated track that runs parallel to the Gürtel. Vienna has one of the largest tram networks in the world. The trams are affectionately referred to as ‘Bims’ for the noise they make. A single fare for U-bahn, bus and tram costs €1.50 (€2 if purchased on the tram or bus) and there is no additional charge for transfers. A single night bus fare costs €1. There is a fine of €40 for passengers who are caught without a valid ticket – on-board inspections are carried out at various times. Tickets are available at Wiener Linien ticket offices and service centres, vending machines and tobacco/newsagent (tabak) outlets. The Vienna Card (€16.90) is a pass that allows for 72 hours of travel on the U-bahn, trams and buses (except for night buses) and offers discounts on attractions, at many shops and restaurants (see Sightseeing). Other passes include the 24-hour network pass (€5), the 72-hour network pass (€12), the weekly season ticket (€12.50), and the eight-day strip ticket (€24), which can be used for two people travelling together. Passes are available from Wiener Linien ticket offices and service centres. A comprehensive transit map is available for purchase at €1 from ticket offices. Taxis Taxis are equipped with meters. Higher fares are charged for trips between 2300 and 0600, all day Sunday and public holidays – a surcharge for luggage is often levied and these rates are clearly posted inside the taxi. Taxis prices are an initial €2, plus approximately €0.20 for each quarter kilometre or 35.8 seconds of waiting time and a €0.50 final charge. There is also a calling fee of €2 for licensed Radio Taxis (tel: (01) 31300 or 40100 or 60160 or 81400) and a €1 surcharge for hailing a taxi from a Taxistandplatz. Between 2300-0600, on Sunday and holidays, the initial charge rises to €2.10. Within the city, no additional charges for luggage, pets, driving back without passengers and other circumstances are allowed. A tip of 10% or rounding up to the nearest Euro is common. There is information on Viennese taxi fares available online (website: www.iaeste.at/~akarpfen/taxi). Limousines Limousines and minibuses are available from a number of companies for sightseeing, airport transfers and special occasions. These include C & K Airport Service (tel: (01) 1731; fax: (01) 689 6969), Jet Car (tel: (01) 271 1818; fax: (01) 2711 8184), Mazur (tel: (01) 6042 5300; fax: (01) 602 1284) and Till Radiotaxi (tel: (01) 319 2511; fax: (01) 310 3875). Hire rates are approximately €2 per kilometre. Driving in the City While pedestrian tourists may appreciate the jumble of tiny streets in the Innerestadt, motorists will find it a nightmare. The area is best avoided during the day, although even at night it can be almost impossible to find a parking place on the street. Parking lots are often located underneath squares and their entrances are fairly subtle. Parking costs from €5 per hour. Short-term street parking is available in districts one to nine of Vienna’s 23 districts. The designated areas are indicated by a blue line on the road, often only marked at the entrance to the short-term parking zone. Tickets – valid for 30, 60 or 90 minutes – are available for purchase at vending machines and newsagents. Hours and restrictions for these areas vary. Parking is strictly policed and fines are high, especially if the car is towed way. Visitors should note that there are restrictions on parking camper vans anywhere near the city centre. Outside the centre, the Gürtel (belt) provides a fairly efficient way of getting around the city but can be slow during rush hour, which is from 0730-0900 and 1500-1830. Car Hire A national driving licence is sufficient for nationals of EU states – other nationalities should obtain an International Driving Permit. The minimum age for hiring a car ranges from 24 years. Third party insurance is mandatory in Austria and those hiring a car should make sure this is covered in the hire contract. All of the major car hire firms are represented, including Avis, Opernring 35 (tel: (01) 587 6241; fax: (01) 587 4900; wwebsite: www.avis.at), Budget, Landstrasser Hauptstrasse 2 (tel: (01) 7146 5650; fax: (01) 714 7238; website: www.budget.com), Europcar, Schwechat, Flughafen (tel: (01) 7007 33316; fax: (01) 7007 33716; website: www.europcar.at), Hertz, Kärntner Ring 17 (tel: (01) 512 8677; fax: (01) 512 5034; website: www.hertz.at), and Sixt, Schwechat, Flughafen (tel: (01) 7007 36517; fax: (01) 7007 36517). Car hire is also available at the airport and at both Westbahnhof and Südbahnhof stations. Car hire rates vary between approximately €80 and €160 per day. Bicycle Hire State owned bicycles are available for hire from Rent a Bike, at train stations Westbahnhof (tel: (01) 5800 32985), Bahnhof Wien Nord (tel: (01) 5800 34817), Bahnhof Floridsdorf (tel: (01) 5800 31011) and Südbahnhof (tel: (01) 5800 35886) for €9 per day (€6.50 with a valid rail ticket and photo identification). There are a number of private hire companies in the city, principally near the banks of the Danube, with easy access to the miles of cycle paths along the Danube Island. Pedal Power, Austellungsstrasse 3 (tel: (01) 729 7234; e-mail: office@pedalpower.at; website: www.pedalpower.at) is located just west of the Praterstern U1 underground station. Rates range from €17 for four hours to €27 for one day (24 hours). Bikes can be delivered to the hotel for a surcharge of around €5. Bicycles are available for hire from March to October only. Rad und Skaterverleih 2000, Copa Cagrana, Donauinsel (tel: (01) 263 5242; fax: (01) 263 5600; e-mail: office@fahrradverleih.at; website: www.fahrradverleih.at) is open from March to October and hires out bicycles for €4.80 per hour, €14.40 for four hours or €24 for a day (6-12 hours). Children’s, tandem and family bikes are also available. Bicycles may be taken on the U-Bahn for a half-price fare, except during the rush hours. There is a network of well-marked bicycle paths, however, riders should take care in the Innerestadt and along major routes. The Wien Tourismus (see Tourist Information) provides brochures on cycling in Vienna. The Rad Weg, a booklet available from bookshops, shows all the cycle routes. Business Business Profile In addition to being the capital, Vienna is Austria’s economic powerhouse and takes the lead in the administrative, cultural and educational sectors. It is also an important centre for international business and is one of the most sought-after conference venues in the world. Vienna is home to a number of international organisations including the United Nations Industrial Development Organisation (UNIDO), the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA), the Organisation of Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC), the United Nations International Drug Control Programme (UNDCP) and the World Federation of Tourist Guides Association (WFTGA). Many of the old small to medium sized companies have their offices in the main shopping precinct, the First District and Sixth District. Newer businesses have spread out into the suburbs, as far afield as the airport and beyond. Vienna is the sixth most prosperous region in the EU. One-quarter of Austria’s workforce is employed in the city and the Vienna area generates approximately 28% of the country’s GDP. Around 40% of all Austrian industrial companies are located in Vienna. Most of the industry is small to medium sized – there are very few Austrian multinationals. The unemployment rate for 2001 was 7.6%, slightly higher than the national average of 6.1%. The increase in unemployment has been attributed to the government’s restrictive budgeting policy and to the general slowdown in Europe’s economic growth. This is especially evident in the construction industry and in tourism, where employment fell 16.2% and 10.2% respectively. The inflation rate remains around the 2% mark. Since joining the European Union on 1 January 1995, Austria has continued to build on its trade with Western Europe (three-quarters of its trade is with EU nations, with Germany its most important trading partner). At the same time, the country is a major player in the expanding markets of Eastern Europe. Overall, the country has good ties with its neighbours to the east and this translates into strong economic relationships (some 14% of exports are to Eastern European nations). Since it has a small domestic market, Austria is highly dependent on exports. The country has a highly skilled workforce and the fortune of having congenial labour–management relations. Co-operation is mutually beneficial and results in far fewer strike days. Austrians have a high standard of living – within the top 15 countries worldwide – and the competitive marketplace means that consumers demand a high standard of quality and service. Business Etiquette The Austrians, especially the Viennese, are extremely formal to strangers. It is essential to address business contacts by their title, until familiarity is well established. English is commonly used in international business settings, however, a few words in German – by way of introduction – will not go amiss. Nevertheless, business dress is not too formal in Vienna and it is possible to go to a business meeting without a tie. It is, however, better for business visitors to err on the side of caution in the first instance. Business hours are generally Monday to Thursday 0800 until 1600 or 1700, with many offices closing slightly earlier on Friday 1500 or 1600. Austrians greatly enjoy eating in restaurants and business meeting are often scheduled over a long lunch. Breakfast and brunch meetings are also becoming increasingly popular. Business visitors should not suggest lunch as a location for a first meeting. Austrians tend to keep work and social life separate. Overtime and weekend work is rare. On those few occasions when one is invited to a business contact or colleague’s home for dinner, a gift of flowers for the hostess and a bottle of wine for the host is essential, as is punctuality. Visitors to homes should also, at least offer to take off their shoes upon entering. Many women bring along their own slippers, to ensure that they will have a pair that will fit and look good with their clothes. Business meals are more for getting to know people, so family and politics should be avoided in conversation. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview The heart of Vienna is the Innerestadt – the area that lay within the city walls, until they were demolished in the mid-19th century. It is here that some of Vienna’s most popular tourist attractions can be found, along with pedestrianised streets lined with countless shops, cafés, bars and restaurants. The centre point is the Graben (literally ‘moat’), which is a wide square lined with shops and pavement cafés under large umbrellas. Following the demolition of the city walls in 1857, the Ringstrasse was laid out and some of Vienna’s most beautiful buildings were built along it, between 1858 and 1865. Among the most important are the Staatsoper (State Opera House), Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts), Naturhistorisches Museum (Natural History Museum), Parlament (Parliament), Rathaus (City Hall) and Burgtheater. Although most major attractions are in the First District, the other inner districts have much to offer. Leopoldstadt (Second District) lies on the eastern side of the Danube Canal, it is here that the massive Prater can be found. Landstrasse (Third District) includes the Schwarzenberg Palace and the Konzerthaus, although the main attraction is the Belvedere Palace. Wieden (Fourth District) is a small neighbourhood that is just as fashionable as the First District. Most of the city’s activity centres are around Karlsplatz, with its domed namesake, Karlskirsch. Margareten (Fifth District) is more residential and the historic homes of Schubert and Gluck still stand here. Mariahelf (Sixth District) includes Vienna’s busiest shopping street, Mariahilferstrass. The Naschmarkt (Produce Market) and the Flohmarkt (Flea Market), on Saturday morning, add to the excitement, while the surrounding streets are packed with Beisls (small restaurants), theatres, cafés and pubs. Neubau (Seventh District) includes the Spittleburg Quarter, where the old houses have been renovated into boutiques, restaurants, theatres and galleries. Josefstadt (Eighth District) was once the area favoured by civil servants – the Josefstadt Theatre, the city’s oldest (1788), is still in operation. Alsergrund (Ninth District) is often called the academic quarter – Freud’s home, now a museum, is located here, as is the Lichtenstein Palace, which now houses the Museum of Modern Art. Tourist Information Wien Tourismus Albertinaplatz/Ecke Maysedergasse Tel: (01) 2111 4222. Fax: (01) 216 8492. E-mail: info@info.wien.at Website: www.info.wien.at Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900. Other tourist information offices are located in the airport arrivals area, at Westbahnhof train station, on the Danube Island near Florisdorfer bridge (May to September), Triester Strasse 149 (at the end of the A2 motorway, in the south of the city) and at service centre Auhof on the A1 motorway (to the west of the city). These provide information, make reservations and supply brochures, maps and the Vienna Card (see Passes). A number of annually printed guides are available, including Kunst & Genuus (Arts & Delights), Architecture, Konzert-Cafés, monthly events and even a Gay Vienna guide. Passes The Vienna Card offers discounts of up to 50% at dozens of attractions, 5-10% discount at a number of shops, as well as special offers at a variety of cafés, restaurants and Heurigen (wine taverns). It also includes unlimited travel on the U-Bahn, bus and tram networks (except for night buses) for 72 hours. Passes are available from tourist information offices, hotels and Wiener Linien sales and information counters for €16.90. Vienna Cards are also available for purchase in advance with a credit card (tel: (01) 7984 40028). The Wien Tourismus website (see Tourist Information) shows all the attractions covered by the Vienna Pass. Key Attractions Stephansdom (St Stephen’s Cathedral) The imposing St Stephen’s Cathedral marks Graben’s eastern end and is easily spotted, due to its brightly coloured roof tiles, from more distant viewpoints. Construction began on the cathedral in the 12th century and was completed in 1433. Major restoration and rebuilding work was necessary after the cathedral caught fire at the end of World War II. Stephansplatz 1 Tel: (01) 5155 23767. Fax: (01) 5155 23191. E-mail: office@stephendom.at Website: www.stephensdom.at Transport: U-Bahn Stephansplatz. Opening hours: Daily 0600-2000; services Sat 1900 and Sun 1015 (Sep-Jun), Sun 0930 (Jul-Aug); guided tours Mon-Sat at 1030 and 1500, Sun 1500. Admission: €2 (south tower); €3 (north tower); €3 (catacombs); €3 (guided tour). Hofburg The Imperial Palace until 1918, the Hofburg is almost a city in itself. Today it is used for a variety of state functions and also houses a number of museums, the chapel where the Vienna Boys’ Choir sings and the hall in which the Lipizzan stallions perform. Visitors can tour the Kaiserappartements (Imperial Apartments) including Franz-Josef’s private rooms, the great audience hall, dining rooms and staterooms. The Hofsilber- und Tafelkammer (Court Silver and Tableware Chamber) is also on show. The Schatzkammer (Treasury), Schweizerhof 1, contains stunning exhibits that exemplify the power and wealth of one of Europe’s most important empires. The Imperial crown of the Holy Roman Empire rests here, as does the crown of the Austrian Empire, the 15th-century Burgundian treasure and the treasure of the Order of the Golden Fleece. Innerer Burghof 1, Kaisertor Tel: (01) 533 7570 (Imperial Apartments and Court Silver) or 533 7931 (Treasury). Fax: (01) 5337 57033 (Imperial Apartments and Court Silver) or 5332 4352 (Treasury). Website: www.hofburg.com Transport: Main entrance on Michaelerplatz at the western end of Kohlmarkt, nearest U-Bahn Herrngasse (U3). Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (Imperial Apartments and Court Silver); Wed and Fri-Mon 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2100 (Treasury). Admission: €6 (Imperial Apartments or Court Silver); €8 (Treasury); €7 (both attractions). Spanische Hofreitschule (Spanish Riding School) For over 400 years, the horses of the Spanish Riding School have performed their elegant manoeuvres at the Imperial Stables. The Lipizzaner Museum Wien (situated at the stables) traces the history of these renowned performing horses and offers the opportunity to see the animals quartered. The easiest way for visitors to see the horses in action is at their morning training sessions, 1000-1200 Tuesday to Friday. Tickets for the actual performances are in high demand and need to be booked well in advance. The season generally runs from February to June and from September to December. Gala performances are on Wednesday evening and Sunday morning and tickets are available on the Internet, by post or by fax. These cost €33-145 or €22-25 for standing room. The first Friday of March, the last Friday of August and the last Saturday of December are final dress rehearsals, with tickets, costing €20, available on a first-come-first-served basis. Tickets to the training sessions, which involve classical dressage exercise to music, are only available at the door on the day. Michaelerplatz 1 Tel: (01) 533 9031. Fax: (01) 535 0186. E-mail: office@srs.at Website: www.spanische-reitschule.com Transport: U-Bahn Stephansplatz; tram D, J, 1 or 2; bus 57A to Burgring. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (museum); Tues-Sat 1000-1200 (morning training sessions). Admission: €5.09 (museum); €11.60 (training sessions); concessions available. Schloss Schönbrunn (Schönbrunn Palace) Schönbrunn Palace is Vienna’s answer to Versailles and was used as the summer residence of the Hapsburgs from the 18th century until 1918. Of the 1411 rooms in the palace, 40 are open to the public. The golden-yellow palace is set within equally magnificent gardens, landscaped in the Baroque style, with some monumental views. The palace and gardens are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The Gloriette is a triumphal arch that stands on the hilltop behind the palace and affords a stunning view over the grounds and the city beyond. The Palmenhaus (Palm House) and Schmetterlingshaus (Butterfly House) are excellent examples of late 19th-century architecture, with cast iron columns delicately holding up the glass walls and roof. The ‘Roman ruins’ in the garden are a typical folly (built during the Hapsburg’s time) and are often used for staging summer productions of Don Giovanni. The world’s oldest zoo can be found in the park. It was commissioned in 1752, to amuse and educate the court. Schönbrunner Schloss Strasse 13 Tel: (222) 8111 3239. Fax: (222) 8111 3333. E-mail: info@schoenbrunn.at Website: www.schoenbrunn.at Transport: U-Bahn Schönbrunn or Hietzing (Zoo). Opening hours: Daily 0830-1700 (Apr-Oct); daily 0830-1630 (Nov-Mar). Admission: €7.50 (audio-guided ‘Imperial’ tour of 22 rooms); €9.80 (extended, audio-guided ‘Grand’ tour of 40 rooms); €14 (VIP Pass, including the Grand Tour, the Bergl Rooms, the Maze, the Gloriette viewing terrace and the Court Bakery, Apr-Oct only). Belvedere The Oberes Belvedere (Upper Belvedere Palace), which was built in 1721-23, for Prince Eugene of Savoy, offers terrific views across the gardens to the Unteres Belvedere (Lower Belvedere) and the city beyond. Artwork from the middle ages and the Baroque era is featured in the Unteres Belvedere. The Oberes Belvedere houses art from the 19th-century classical, Romantic and Biedermeier periods on the second floor and post-1918 art on the ground floor. The first floor, however, is what draws visitors, with paintings by Gustav Klimt (including der Küss), Egon Schiele and other fin-de-siècle artists. Österreichische Galerie Belvedere, Prinz Eugenstrasse 27 Tel: (01) 79557. Fax: (01) 798 4337. E-mail: belvedere@belvedere.at Website: www.belvedere.at Transport: U-Bahn Südbahnhof; tram D. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Admission: €7 (special exhibitions cost extra); concessions available. Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts) This museum was built to house the Imperial Hapsburg collections in one place, although these have now grown to such an extent that some are housed in the Hofburg and in Schönbrunn Palace (see above). The grand staircase in the Kunsthistorisches Museum provides passage to the galleries, which include the Antiquities, Egyptian-Oriental and Coin collections. The Kunstkammer (art chamber) houses sculpture and decorative arts. The Gemäldegalerie (picture gallery) has works by Old Masters – including Dürer, Raphael, Rembrandt, Rubens and Titian – and the most comprehensive collection of Brueghels in the world. Maria-Theresien-Platz 1 Tel: (01) 5252 4401. Fax: (01) 523 2770. E-mail: info@khm.at Website: www.khm.at Transport: U-Bahn Babenbergerstrasse or Volkstheater. Opening hours: Sun-Wed 1000-1800; Thurs 1000-2100. Admission: €9 (including special exhibitions); concessions available. Naturhistorisches Museum (Natural History Museum) The Naturhistorisches Museum is the mirror image of the Kunsthistorisches Museum, housing collections of anthropological, geological and palaeontological exhibits, including a variety of dinosaur and ice-age mammal fossils. A highlight among the prehistoric artefacts is the 25,000-year-old ‘Venus of Willendorf’ sculpture. Maria-Theresien-Platz 1 Tel: (01) 521 770. Fax: (01) 523 5254. Website: www.nhm-wien.ac.at Transport: U-Bahn Babenbergerstrasse or Volkstheater. Opening hours: Wed-Mon 0900-1800. Admission: €3.60 (concessions available). Further Distractions Prater The Prater is a giant wooded park, fairground and the location of one of Vienna’s most famous sights – the century-old Riesenrad (Giant Ferris Wheel). Harry Lime fought here in The Third Man (1949) and Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy fell in love here in Before Sunrise (1995). Prater Tel: (01) 969 7817. E-mail: info@wiener-prater.at Website: www.wiener-prater.at Transport: S-Bahn or U-Bahn Praterstern; trams O, 5 or 21. Riesenrad (Giant Ferris Wheel) Prater 90 Tel: (01) 729 5430. Fax: (01) 7295 43020. E-mail: wr.riesenrad@aon.at Website: www.wienerriesenrad.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-2400 (May-Sep); daily 1000-2200 (Mar-Apr and Oct); daily 1000-1800 (Nov-Feb). Admission: €7.50. KunstHausWien (Vienna Art House) KunstHausWien is the unmistakable architectural expression of Friedensreich Hundertwasser’s unique vision. Appearing like a Klimt painting as seen through a kaleidoscope, the building contains an exhibition of Hundertwasser’s artwork as well as a bright café with a chic clientele and relaxing garden. The goulash is excellent. The nearby Hundertwasserhaus is an apartment project, which can only be viewed from the street. Untere Weissgerberstrasse 13 Tel: (01) 712 0491. Fax: (01) 712 0496. E-mail: information@kunsthauswien.com Website: www.kunsthauswien.com Transport: Trams N and O to Radetskyplatz. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1900. Admission: €7; all exhibitions half price on Monday; concessions available for large groups. Kaisergruft (Imperial Burial Vault) The Imperial Burial Vault in the Kapuzinerkirche (Capuchin Church), which was build between 1622 and 1632, is well worth a visit. The vault became the burial place of the Hapsburgs and the highlight is the double casket of Maria-Theresa and Franz I. Neuer Markt 1 Tel: (01) 5126 85312. Website: www.kaisergruft.at Transport: U-Bahn Stephansplatz or Karlsplatz. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1600. Admission: €3. Haus der Musik (House of Music) The Haus der Musik is a major new addition to Vienna’s museum scene, offering a link between technology and art. The ground floor has concert spaces and a wine bar, while the first floor houses the museum of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra, where visitors are given the opportunity to view the last New Year’s Day Concert. The second floor is the Sonosphere, where many aspects of sound are presented, using hands-on computer technology and giant instruments. The third floor is dedicated to historic displays of great Viennese composers, from Haydn to Berg. One room features the Virtual Conductor, where visitors can use virtual technology to conduct the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. The fourth floor includes the Brain Opera, an interactive musical environment with unique ultramodern musical instruments. The fifth floor includes concert rooms and an excellent café with superb views over St Stephen’s Cathedral. All exhibitions are presented in both German and English and anyone can happily spend hours here, whether musically inclined or not. Seilerstätte 30 Tel: (01) 516 4851. Fax: (01) 516 4848. E-mail; info@haus-der-musik-wien.at Website: www.hdm.at Transport: U-Bahn Stephansplatz, Karlsplatz or Schwarzenbergplatz. Opening hours: Daily 1000-2200. Admission: EUR8.50 (Haus der Musik); €5 (Vienna Philharmonic Museum); €10 (combination ticket). Tours of the City Walking Tours There are 11 tours available in English (and many more in German), as part of the Vienna Walks programme (tel: (01) 876 7111; website: www.viennawalks.tix.at or www.wienguide.at). These vary from ‘Vienna in the Footsteps of The Third Man’, which scouts out the locations of the famous film, to tours of the homes of Mozart, Beethoven and Schubert. Other popular options include tours focusing on a historical period, Jewish life in Vienna, or the underground city of crypts and wine cellars. Tours take from 90 minutes to two hours and cost €11 (except The Third Man tour, which rises to €14). These do not need to be pre-booked, although any admission fees and transport on the U-bahn, trams or buses is extra. Departure points for the tours vary and are listed on the website, in the guide leaflet and at the main tourist office. For The Third Man and the Underground Vienna tour, sturdy footwear and a torch (flashlight) are advisible. Original Vienna Walks (tel/fax: (01) 889 2896; e-mail: contact@verliebtinwien.at; website: www.verliebtinwien.at) also offers a number of walks in both German and English, taking place daily at 1000 and 1430 from August to October. The tours cover such aspects of the city as Art Nouveau architecture, medieval quarters and hidden courtyards and the Imperial Palace. Tours are between 90 minutes and two hours and cost €10.50, with a minimum of three walkers per group. The meeting place is Kärntnerstrasse 38, behind the Staatsoper, although visitors should confirm this beforehand. Bus Tours Vienna Sightseeing Tours (tel: (01) 7124 68380; fax: (01) 714 1141; e-mail: vst@viennasightseeingtours.com; website: www.viennasightseeingtours.com) offers a number of half-day city tours, as well as full day tours to Prague, Budapest and other locations. The three-and-a-half-hour Historical City Tour, which includes a visit to Schönbrunn Palace, costs €32. Hotel pick up is arranged and participants are given the option to transfer to Vienna Sightseeing Tours’ hop on-hop off service, the Vienna Line. This route involves 13 stops at major attractions and shopping destinations, departing 1000, 1100, 1300, 1400, 1500 and 1600 from the Staatsoper. A full circuit takes two hours and 45 minutes and tickets cost €18. These are available for purchase on the bus, at the Staatsoper stop or from many hotel concierges. Theme tours and day trip excursions are also available. Cityrama (tel: (01) 534 1312; e-mail: office@cityrama.at) offers a similar full city tour as well as number of other tours of Vienna and other destinations, in both German and English. The Sisi Tour (Sisi is the name given to Emperor Franz Joseph’s wife, Elisabeth) covers the historical sites of the city and includes a visit to St Stephen’s Cathedral, Hofburg and a training session at the Spanish Riding School. The three-hour tour costs €32, which excludes entrance to the Spanish Riding School. Free hotel pick up is arranged. Boat Tours The DDSG Blue Danube Schiffahrt GmbH (tel: (01) 5888 0442; fax: (01) 5888 0440; e-mail: info@ddsg-blue-danube.at; website: www.ddsg-blue-danube.at) offers sightseeing and dancing cruises on the Danube, available from mid April to the end of September. Boats depart from Schwedenplatz or Reichsbrücke (see Getting There By Water), near the Vorgartenstrasse U-bahn station. The full Grand Danube River Tour and the Hundertwasser Tour, both lasting an hour and a half, each cost €14. Special themed cruises are offered on Friday and Saturday evenings. Other Tours Three- to four-hour bicycle tours are provided by Pedal Power, Ausstellungsstrasse 3 (tel: (01) 729 7234; website: www.pedalpower.at), departing from the Prater ferris wheel, daily at 1000 May-September. Tours cost €23, which includes a bike and guide, and cover a number of city sites, such as KunstHausWien, St Stephen’s Cathedral and the Danube Canal. The Old-Timer Tramway tour departs from the Art Nouveau subway pavilion at Karlsplatz, on Saturday and Sunday. Tickets and information are available from the information office of the Vienna Transport Authority, Karlsplatz (tel: (01) 587 3186). The trams date from 1929 and the service runs from May to October. Tours depart from Karlsplatz, near the Otto Wagner Pavilion, at 1130 and 1330 (also 0930 on Sunday). Points of interest include the Rathskeller, the Burgtheatre, the University of Vienna, the Schönbrunn Palace and the Riesenrad. Tickets for the two-hour tour cost €15 (concessions available). Alternatively, a romantic, albeit expensive, way for visitors to see the city is by a traditional Fiaker (horse-drawn carriage). These are available for hire on Graben and just to the north of St Stephen’s Cathedral, at Heldenplatz (near the Hofburg) and at Albertinaplatz (behind the Staatsoper). The cost for up to four people is approximately €40 for 20 minutes (klein), €56 for 40 minutes (gross) or €95 for one hour (Stunde). The exact prices and lengths of the ride must be negotiated in advance. Excursions For a Half Day Krems an der Donau: Along the Danube, to the west of Vienna, lies Krems, a thousand-year-old town surrounded by vineyards. The western end, Stein, is the old portion of the town, which contains the Landstrasse with its old buildings, including the 16th-century town hall. Above Landstrasse, the Renaissance town house, narrow streets and small squares show the structure of the original town. Both the Piaristenkirche and the Wienstadt Museum celebrate the work of medieval artist Johann Martin Schmidt. The 15th-century Steiner Tor gateway marks the end of Stein. Just before the Kremer Tor, at the other end of Landstrasse, is the town’s new Kunst Halle Krems, a major arts venue. The Gozzoburg, at the bottom of the Hoher Markt, serves reasonably priced local dishes (closed Tuesday) and Piano, at An der Donaulände, on the banks of the river, is an attractive place for visitors to enjoy a drink. Trains leave Vienna Franz Josef Bahnhof every two hours (journey time – 1 hour). The last train back to Vienna is at around 2130. Austropa Verkehrsbüro, Undstrasse 6 (tel: (02) 7328 2676; fax: (02) 7327 0011; e-mail: austropa.krems@netway.at; website: www.krems.gv.at or www.tiscover.com/krems), is located halfway between Stein and Krems and provides further information. For a Whole Day Wachau Valley: Between Krems an der Donau and Melk, the Danube winds through one of the most beautiful areas of Austria. A variety of outdoor activities are available on this stretch, including watersports, hiking, cycling, boat cruises and wine-tasting tours. The Danube Bike Path follows the river on both banks. Bicycles can be hired at the train stations in Krems, Melk, Spitz, Pöchlarn and Ybbs for half a day at €9 (€7 with a valid train ticket) or a full day at €12 (€8 with a valid train ticket) and deposited at a destination station for a further fee of €4. Trains to Melk, Pöcham and Ybbs depart from the Westbahnhof, while trains to Krems and Spitz depart from Franz Josef Bahnhof. Further information on the region is available from the Tourismusverband Wachau-Nibelungengau, Undstrasse 6, 3500 Krems an der Donau (tel: (02732) 85620; fax: (02732) 87471; e-mail: wachau@netway.at; website: www.wachau.at or www.tiscover.com/wachau). Melk: Founded in 831 and situated on the north bank of the Danube, approximately half way between Vienna and Linz, Melk is an attractive town with a stunning abbey. Stift Melk, Abt Berthold Dietmayrstrasse 1 (tel: (02752) 5231 2232 or 555 225; fax: (02752) 555 226; e-mail: kultur.tourismus@stiftmelk.at; website: www.stiftmelk.at), sits atop an escarpment, commanding a large stretch of the river valley. It is a physical testament to the power and authority of both the Babenbergs, who built it over a thousand years ago, and the Benedictine monks, who have occupied it since 1089. The Abbey, which features in Umberto Eco’s novel, The Name of the Rose (1983), contains a museum, a restaurant and park and garden pavilion and is open to the public year round, daily 0900-1800 from May to September, 0900-1700 from March to April and by guided tour only from November to March. The one-hour guided tour of the abbey takes one hour and is available all year round. Entrance costs €6.90 or €8.50 with the tour. Entrance to the Abbey Park only costs €3. Even those who do not have time to visit the abbey cannot fail to miss it as they approach Vienna by rail or road from the west. Although a few trains continue on from Krems an der Donau to Melk, there are trains from Vienna’s Westbahnhof to Salzburg and travellers for Melk must change at St Pölten Hofbahnhof for the local line to Amstetten. The trip to Melk takes approximately 70 minutes. Returning to Amstetten, one can either return to Vienna or continue on the InterCity train to Salzburg, Innsbruck or Bregenz. Hotels Hotel prices will include 10% VAT for the room and for the breakfast, 20% for any other meals and services (including the mini-bar), plus the city Ortstaxe (Tourist Tax) of 2.8% of the total. The prices quoted below are the starting prices for double rooms, excluding breakfast but including the relevant taxes, unless otherwise specified. Business ANA Grand Hotel Wien Built from a design by Karl Tietz, in the 1860s, the ANA Grand Hotel Wien has 250 rooms and suites, a ballroom and five meeting rooms for between 12 and 480 guests – the Quadrille and Galerie rooms can be combined to accommodate 600 delegates. The 24-hour business centre includes PCs, scanner, fax and printers; secretarial and translation services are by arrangement. The well-regarded Unkai Japanese restaurant is situated within this centrally located hotel. Kärntner Ring 9 Tel: (01) 515 800. Fax: (01) 515 1313. E-mail: sales@anagrand.com Website: www.anagrand.com Price: From €360. Astron Hotel & Conference Centre An amalgamation of what were formerly the Sofitel and Novitel hotels at Vienna Airport, this modern hotel is linked by a covered walkway to the World Trade Center. It is ideal for business meetings when it is not possible for delegates to be based in the city centre. There are 325 soundproofed rooms, three restaurants, two bars, a fitness centre and 23 meeting rooms between 17 and 424 sq metres (4564 sq ft). Facilities include a full business centre, secretarial and translation services and computers for hire. The city centre is only 20 minutes away by train or bus. Vienna International Airport Tel: (01) 701 510. Fax: (01) 706 2828. E-mail: info-vienna-airport@astron-hotels.de Website: www.astron-hotels.de Price: From €119. Hotel Inter-Continental Wien The 453-room modern five-star hotel faces the Stadtpark, with 15 meeting rooms and a conference capacity of 1200. Renovated in 2000, all rooms include e-mail and cc-mail, while the 24-hour Reuters Business Centre and conferencing service is able to fulfil any further business requirements. There also is a health centre. As exclusive caterers to the Hofburg (Imperial Palace), the Inter-Continental can arrange special events in these exceptional surroundings. Besides the award-winning Vier Jarhzeiten restaurant, the hotel offers Brasserie am Stadtpark, a lobby café, as well as the Intermezzo Bar with a string trio or pianist in the evenings. Johannesgasse 28 Tel: (01) 711 220 or 2262 (reservations). Fax: (01) 713 4489. E-mail: vienna@interconti.com Website: http://vienna.interconti.com Price: From €210. Radisson SAS Palais Dating from 1872, the Radisson SAS Palais is, in fact, a combination of two Ringstrasser Palaces – the Leiterberger and Henckel von Donnersmarck. There are 247 rooms and suites, with the best facing the Stadtpark. The décor is an attractive blend of Viennese traditional and Scandinavian modern. All business services can be arranged and all rooms are equipped with modem and voicemail. Famous guests range from Gorbachev to David Bowie and the AC Milan football team. Parkring 16 Tel: (01) 515 170. Fax: (01) 512 2216. E-mail: sales.vienna@radissonas.com Website: www.radissonas.com/viennaat Price: From €170. Luxury Hotel Bristol The Hotel Bristol, located directly opposite the State Opera House, still retains most of its original fin-de-siècle fixtures and fittings. Since its 1892 opening, the hotel has been an important meeting place for the international aristocracy and masters of industry. There are 140 rooms and seven conference rooms. Following its £10 million refurbishment, the Bristol Executive Club has opened a new VIP Lounge and a Global Business Centre, equipped with all major telecommunication systems. Besides the Korso restaurant (see Restaurants), the hotel is also well known for its Sirk Restaurant and Café. Kärntner Ring 1 Tel: (01) 515 160. Fax: (01) 5151 6550. E-mail: hotel-bristol@sheraton.com Website: www.sheraton.com Price: From €347. Hotel Im Palais Schwarzenberg The Hotel Im Palais Schwarzenberg is a superb hotel, located in the 1716 summer palace, next to the Belvedere, and still owned by Fürst (Prince) Schwarzenberg. The 38 air-conditioned double rooms and six suites combine the best of antique and modern furnishings and have CD players besides the usual radio and television. The six Baroque halls, some with frescos by Daniel Gras (1726), and eight seminar rooms for up to 350 people offer possibly the finest venue for business and social events in the city. The Terrace Restaurant (see Restaurants) is also one of the best in the city and other smaller rooms include a bar and the Kaminzimmer, where guests can enjoy pastries in front of an open fire, during the winter. There are often events in the 7.2-hectare (18-acre) private park, including ballets and fireworks. The park also includes an outdoor pool, five tennis courts and three kilometres (1.9 miles) of private jogging paths. Schwarzerbergplatz 9 Tel: (01) 798 4515. Fax: (01) 798 4714. E-mail: palais@schwartzenberg.via.at Website: www.palais-schwarzerberg.com Price: From €265. Hotel Imperial Built in 1869, as one of the Würtemberg Palaces and located next to the Musikverein Concert Hall, the Imperial Hotel was opened by Kaiser Franz Joseph I, in 1873. To this day, it maintains most of its original features, including ceiling frescoes and Old Master paintings. There are 96 rooms and 32 suites, conference facilities for up to 250 and all business facilities can be arranged. Besides the usual apparatus, all rooms include modem and voicemail. A favourite with state visitors, this hotel offers the ultimate in discretion and service. Kärntner Ring 16 Tel: (01) 501 230. Fax: (01) 5012 3410. E-mail: hotel-imperial@sheraton.com Website: www.sheraton.com Price: From €378. Hotel Sacher Family run for well over a century, the 104-room Hotel Sacher is one of Vienna’s great institutions and the art on display in the corridors would rival that in many museums. All 108 rooms include modem, voicemail and fax connection (fax machines can be hired). Conference facilities are available for up to 250 delegates, with the most modern presentation equipment. The hotel can also arrange out-of-house services. Besides a café and two bars, Hotel Sacher hosts the famous Restaurant Anna Sacher, where Kaiser Franz Josef dined on an almost daily basis, usually choosing Tafelspitz (boiled beef). Philharmonikerstasse 4 Tel: (01) 514 560. Fax: (01) 51410. E-mail: hotel@sacher.com Website: www.sacher.com Price: From €306. Moderate Nosseck Pension Totally central at an excellent price, the 26-room Nosseck Pension opens directly on to the pedestrianised Graben, at the heart of central Vienna. This is an extremely attractive pension for its price and prime location, with large and elegantly furnished en-suite rooms. Graben 17 Tel: (01) 533 7041. Fax: (01) 535 3646. E-mail: reservation@pension-nossek.at Website: www.pension-nossek.at Price: From €105 (including breakfast). Credit cards are not accepted. Pension Pertschy Minutes from the Spanish Riding School, this building, the Palais Cavriana (1734), was once the home of a count. As a four-star pension with a courtyard, flower boxes and period furniture, Pension Pertschy is now a national landmark. The 47 rooms are situated between the first and fourth floor and are well equipped with shower or bath, toilet, telephone, TV, mini-bar and hairdryer. There is a free Internet terminal in the hall. Herr Pertschy also owns the Pensions Aviano, Baronesse and Christina. Habsburgergasse 5 Tel: (01) 534 490. Fax: (01) 534 4949. E-mail: pertschy@pertschy.com Website: www.pertschy.com Price: From €97. Restaurants The selected restaurants are divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. The prices quoted below include 20% VAT. Restaurant bills will also include a service charge of between 10% and 15%, so a tip is usually not necessary. However, it is customary for patrons to round the bill up to the nearest €1. The prices stated are for a three-course meal and for a bottle of house wine. They include VAT but no service charge. Gastronomic Altwienerhof Altweinerhof is a short walk from the Schönbrunn Palace and is one of the city’s great restaurants, still with many of its original Biedermeier features and an excellent garden. Rudolf Kellner is one of the country’s best chefs, well versed in several culinary cultures and his ‘grande cuisine’ is Austrian with a French bias. The menu changes daily, so recommendations are difficult. Nevertheless, all are excellent. Menu options have included lightly boiled pheasant with goose liver sauce. The chef prepares a menu dégustation of six or eight courses of each evening’s dishes for diners who are having difficulty making up their minds. Closed on Sunday and the first three weeks of January. Herklotzgasse 6 Tel: (01) 892 6000. Fax (01) 8926 0008. E-mail: altweinerhof@netway.at Website: www.altweinerhof.at/gb/restaurant.htm Price: €70. Wine: €22. Drei Husaren Founded by members of the aristocracy in 1933, the Three Hussars is one of the city’s oldest continually running restaurants – not to mention one of the grandest. The atmosphere and décor still suggests the great days of the Hapsburgs, with a stylishly lavish yet intimate interior. The hors d’oeuvres trolley always offers at least 30 superb seasonal dishes and the house crêpes, Husarenphannkuchen, should not be missed. Speciality dishes include the local favourite, tafelspitz (boiled beef) with ox marrow, hash brown potatoes, creamed spinach, chive sauce and apple sauce with horseradish, as well as calf’s head served in a number of ways, such as with tartar sauce and potato salad or with marjoram-shallot sauce and rice. Weihburggasse 4 Tel: (01) 5121 0920. Fax (01) 5121 09218. E-mail: office@drei-husaren.at Website: www.drei-husaren.at Price: €65. Wine: €21. Kervansaray-Hummerbar The city’s finest fish restaurant, where the house specialities comprise a wide variety of lobster dishes. Besides many other fish dishes, such as Norwegian salmon with a horseradish and champagne sauce, excellent meat dishes are also available, even including kebabs and other top Turkish dishes. A special Caviar Menu is available on request. The ground floor Hummerbar (Lobster Bar) provides more modest Turkish and international meals. Both floors offer a fashionable but classic décor, with superb service and attention to detail. Closed on Sunday. Mahlerstrasse 9 Tel: (01) 512 8843. Fax (01) 513 8130. Price: €50. Wine: €17. Korso bei der Oper, Hotel Bristol From the exquisite, classic décor to the exceptional food, produced under the direction of one of Austria’s finest chefs, Reinhard Gerer, the Korso is considered one of the city’s finest restaurants. It specialises in Austrian delicacies, with only the finest ingredients, including Tafelspitz (boiled beef) and perch in red pepper cream sauce. The wine cellar also is one of the best in Europe. Diners should always save room for the wonderful versions of Viennese desserts. The restaurant has long been a favourite with international opera stars. Hotel Bristol, Kärntner Ring 1 Tel: (01) 5151 6546. E-mail: hotel-bristol@sheraton.com Website: www.sheraton.com Price: €75. Wine: €29. Restaurant Anna Sacher Since 1876, dining at the Sacher Hotel has been as much a social experience as a culinary one. Most celebrities visiting Vienna eventually end up at the scarlet dining room, usually to enjoy its most famous – and Austria’s national – dish, Tafelspitz (boiled beef), served with an apple and horseradish and a chive sauce. Diners should always save room for the dessert speciality, Sachertorte, a chocolate tart split in half, spread with apricot jam and iced with chocolate. Each month there is a new menu reflecting the seasons. Reservations are required and it is best for diners to arrive before 2300, wearing smart clothes. Hotel Sacher Wien, Philarmonikerstrasse 4 Tel: (01) 514 560. Fax (01) 5145 6810. E-mail: hotel@sacher.com Website: www.sacher.com Price: €50. Wine: €19. Terrace Restaurant, Hotel Im Palais Schwarzenberg Without question, this venue is Vienna’s best for outdoor dining in the summer, with a terrace overlooking the park in the grounds of the 1716 Palais Schwarzenberg (now partly a hotel). Although the restaurant is extremely smart, dining is a tranquil experience here. The seasonal menu presents both Austrian and international cuisine, with dishes including polenta gnocci with pumpkin and truffles, rabbit ragout and salt encrusted sea bass with Aioli. Deserts, such as chocolate blinis with plums in balsamic vinegar and thyme ice cream, are not to be missed. The wine cellar is exceptional, with many wines available by the glass. It is also possible for diners to enjoy good but smaller meals in the bar. Hotel Im Palais Schwarzenberg, Schwarzenbergplatz 9 Tel: (01) 798 4515. Fax (01) 798 4714. E-mail: palais@schwarzenberg.co.at Website: www.palais-schwarzenberg.com Price: €58 (€50 in the bar). Wine: €25. Business Alef-Alef Located in the middle of the ‘Bermuda Triangle’, next to the synagogue on Siettenstettengasse and just north of the Fleischmarkt, Alef-Alef is one of Vienna’s best kosher restaurants, with arched ceilings and red velvet upholstery. The classic dishes of German-Jewish cooking, such as Gefiltefisch (stuffed carp) and Kigel (potato strudel), are served up here, alongside a wide range of healthier Middle Eastern Jewish dishes of grilled meats and fish, salads and dips. Seittenstettengasse 2 Tel: (01) 535 2530. Fax (01) 5352 53033. Website: www.alef-alef.at Price: €28. Wine (kosher): €13.80. Bodega Española With an antique Spanish décor and a large open fire during the colder seasons, Bodega Española looks back to the days when the Hapsburg dynasty had strong connections to the Spanish throne. Located near the Belevedere Galleries, this is one of the first tapas restaurants in the city. The menu features many small dishes, as well as excellent main courses, like bacalao á la malagueña (a fish speciality from Malaga) and lamb steak with lemon-rosemary potatoes. Closed Saturday and Monday. Reservations are recommended. Belvederegasse 10 Tel: (01) 504 5500. Fax (01) 587 9700. E-mail: bodega@espanola.at Website: www.bodega-espanola.at Price: €25. Wine: €15. Haas Haus Do&Co With the spectacular view from the seventh floor opposite St Stephen’s Cathedral, Do&Co attracts the jet-set crowd and visitors should book a window table in winter or one on the terrace in summer to ensure the prime place in this sophisticated and stylish venue. There is a sushi bar (lunchtime) and a better-than-average selection of vegetarian dishes. Meat dishes include the superb king crab and steak combo, Uruguay beef and goose liver on Caesar salad with pumpkinseed oil and lobster St Tropez (sautéed in butter with tomatoes and basil). Do&Co is also reputed to have the youngest and best looking waitrons in Vienna. The restaurant also runs Onxy, a bar and café on the sixth floor, as well as Aioli, for antipasti, tapas and Mediterranean dishes, on the third floor. Stephansplatz 12 (patrons must take Lift Two) Tel: (01) 535 3969. Fax (01) 535 3959. E-mail: organization@doco.com Website: www.doco.com Price: €45. Wine: €21. Kupferdachl Kupferdachl is one of the best choices for moderately priced but excellent quality Styrian dishes, away from the usual tourist haunts. The restaurant is located in the cellar section of the Leupold restaurant and is very much a family affair, with an old-fashioned comfortable atmosphere. Specialities include raumschnitzel (creamed veal cutlet), lungenbraten (tenderloin of beef stuffed with goose liver, served with cream sauce and dumplings), barbury duck and Wienerschnitzel. Occasionally there is live music. Closed Sunday and Saturday in July and August. Schottengasse 7 (entrance on Mölker Bastei 1) Tel: (01) 533 9381. Price: €26 Wine: €16.70 Yugetsu Near the Staatsoper, Yugetsu is considered by many to be Vienna’s best Japanese restaurant. The ground floor at Yugetsu, comprising a sushi bar and conventional tables, is decorated in a simple and restful Japanese style and offers sushi, sashimi, tempura and a large à la carte menu. Upstairs is lighter, louder and done up for teppan yaki, with comfortable seats arranged around three sides of the double grill, upon which the teppan yaki cooks prepare meals in front of the diners. Führichgasse 10 Tel: (01) 512 2720. Fax (01) 5122 72021. Price: €30. Sake: €34.88. Wine: €16.70 Trendy MAK In the Museum of Modern Art, MAK is very much a museum restaurant-café, attracting a crowd that is fashionable rather than cultural. The venue is attractive with a combination of painted wooden ceiling and modern bars and a superb courtyard available for summertime dining. The house speciality is piroghi – pockets of pastry with many different fillings, such as potato and soft cheese. More substantial meals, such as duck with red cabbage and dumplings, are also available and the desserts are wonderful. Credit cards are not accepted. Steubenring 5 Tel: (01) 714 0121. Fax: (01) 957 7729. Website: www.mak.at/eng/service/8_café.html Price: €13. Wine: €16. Neu Wien The venue’s casual, cellar-like setting is popular with Vienna’s media and avant-garde. The low lighting effectively sets off the many paintins and interesting murals and the restaurant itself was designated by the artist, C L Attersee. Neu Wien is one of the finest examples of New Vienna dining, where nouvelle cuisine meets that of the Hapsburgs. The menu changes frequently but could include dishes like Zanderfilet – crispy pike with cream beet sauce – or veal in truffle sauce. The superb Vranac wines from Montenegro should not be overlooked. Open from 1800 to 0200 daily, Neu Wien is an excellent choice for late-night dining. Bäckerstasse 5 Tel: (01) 513 0666. Price: €25. Wine: €17.40. Novelli Novelli is one of Vienna’s finest modern Italian restaurants, with an open-plan room with chandeliers and big leather chairs. The antipasti bar is superb and main courses include dishes like steak with sage gnocchi and onions in balsamic vinegar or sea bass poached in tarragon cream. Desserts are well in keeping with Viennese luxury and the Italian wine list is extensive. There is also a discreet bar. Closed Monday. Bräunerstrasse 11 Tel: (01) 5134 2000. Fax (01) 5134 2001. E-mail: novelli@haslauer.at Website: www.haslauer.at Price: €25. Wine: €26. Toko Ri What began as a small sushi bar has now expanded to three locations, serving probably the best sushi in the city in beautiful interiors. The ika-natto-maki and the gyoza are recommended, as is the fish-maki without rice, a delicious composition of tuna, salmon, kani and avocado wrapped in nori. Evening reservations are recommended. Salztorgasse 4 Tel: (01) 532 7777. Franz Hochedlingergasse 2 Tel: (01) 214 8940. Naschmarkt 263 Tel: (01) 587 2616. Website: www: www.tokori.at Price: €20. Wine: €16.80. Budget Lokanta Sarikoç Lokanta Sarikoç is one of Vienna’s best Turkish and Greek restaurants, featuring both buffet and waiter service in a relaxed atmosphere, with a slight accent of Turkish style and décor. There is a wide range of starters, grilled meats, kebabs and fish dishes, as well as many vegetarian dishes. The Wednesday night special menu is lamb on the spit. Wahringerstrasse 8 Tel: (01) 319 9987. Price: €15. Wine: €15. Reinprecht (Heurigen) Heurigens are outer suburban wine taverns, usually selling wine from the latest harvest. They are such a separate part of Viennese cuisine that it is only possible to recommend one in the main tourist heurigen area of Grinzing. Reinprecht is located in a 300-year-old monastery with a terraced garden and offers grills as well as the usual buffet of cold meats and cheeses, sausages, pickled salads, roast pork and dumplings. Sad Schrammelmusik (19th-century Viennese dance music with violins, guitar and clarinet/accordian) is played here nightly and the atmosphere is lively. The best wines are bought by the bottle, with the Pinot Blanc recommended. Close from mid December to February. Cobenzlgasse 22, Grinzing (U2 to Schottentor, then tram 38 to end terminus) Tel: (01) 3201 4710. Fax (01) 3205 71322. E-mail: reinprecht@grinzing.net Price: From €7. Wine: €11. Wiener Rathauskeller Throughout the Teutonic world, city halls have traditionally maintained basement restaurants. Even though this Rathaus was only built between 1871 and 1883 and the cellar restaurant not added until 1899, Vienna’s city hall is no exception. It features six neo-Gothic rooms, still with all their original stained-glass windows and vaulted ceilings. Besides the usual Viennese dishes, the speciality here is the Rathauskellerplatte for two, consisting of various veal, pork and lamb dishes. One portion of the cellar features a Viennese musical evening from 2000, featuring waltzes, operetta and Schrammel music. Closed Sunday. Reservations are required. Rathausplatz 1 Tel: (01) 4051 2190. Price: €26. Wine: €18.60. Wrenkh Two venues form what arguably is Vienna’s top vegetarian restaurant and bar combo, in which Christian Wrenkh serves great seasonal food to a young and elegant crowd. The restaurants have a light and airy desinger feel, with the accent on comfort. Firm favourites include miso soup, Greek fried rice with vegatables, feta cheese and olives and wild rice risotto with mushrooms. The attached bar was designed by Eichinger and Knechtl. Bauernmarkt 10 Tel: (01) 533 1526. Fax (01) 535 0840 Hollergasse 8. Tel: (01) 892 3356. Price: €15. Wine: €12. Zwölf-Apostelkeller (Stadtheurigen) ‘City Heurigen’ are generally located in the cellars of Vienna’s old monasteries and offer a taste of what the outlying wine taverns offer, for those who do not have the time to leave the city. In this one, parts of the ‘12 Apostles Cellar’ predate 1561, with wooden tables under lighting partially provided by streetlights set into the floor. The low prices do not detract from the quality of the traditional food, which includes goulash soup, meat dumplings and Schlachtplatte (a selection of meats with hot bacon and cabbage salad). As it is from the barrel rather than the bottle, which is common in a Heurigen, wine is sold by the quarter litre. There is music daily from 1830. The venue is closed for July. Sonnenfelsgasse 3 Tel: (01) 512 6777. Fax: (1) 3686 85815. Price: €18. Wine: €2.25 (for a quarter litre). Personal Recommendations Abend-Restaurant Fuervogel A Viennese landmark since World War I, the Fuervogel is situated opposite the Lichtenstein Palace and is where one can enjoy the Slavic atmosphere and Gypsy violins. Ideally, a meal should begin with Sakkuska, a variety platter. In addition to the usual dishes, such as chicken kiev and beef stroganoff, the restaurant offers options like borscht, veal dulguruki and other dishes of the Steppes. Dessert should definitely be plombier, a rich Russian ice cream. Wonderful fixed-price gourmet dinners of three and five courses (‘Kreml Dinners’) are also available. Closed Sunday and from 15 July to 15 August. Alserbachstrasse 21 Tel: (01) 317 5391. Price: €30. Wine: €10. Café-Restaurant im Kunsthaus This restaurant is part of the Kunsthaus gallery, which houses the unusual works of Friedensreich Hundertwasser – although it is not necessary to pay to see the exhibition in order to eat here. The Hundertwasser style attracts the arty, bohemian and tourist crowds and the restaurant is full of bright primary colours, with undulating floors and vast displays of fresh flowers. Although not the most imaginative of seasonally varied menus –soups, salads, and some Viennese meat dishes like Wienerschnitzel – this still is an extremely attractive and fun place for a meal. The Midsummer Night’s Dream-like garden is open in the summer. Weissgerberlände 14 Tel: (01) 712 0497. E-mail: cafe@kunsthauswien.at Website: www.kunsthauswien.at Price: €15. Wine: €15. Gulashmuseum Although long a tourist favourite, the Gulashmuseum, with at least 15 different traditional versions of goulash is still an attractive option for a meal. One does not go to this restaurant for its décor, which is very much that of an Austrian country Gasthaus (guest house), almost to the point of a attractive kitsch. The best starter is the ‘national crêpe’ of Hungary, Hortobágy palatschinken, pancakes with minced beef and paprika cream sauce. Goulash is served with beef, pork, veal, chicken liver or vegetables, usually accompanied by boiled potatoes and dark bread. The usual Austrian main courses of meat and fish are also available, as are desserts. Schulerstrasse 20 Tel: (01) 512 1017. Website: www.gulash.at Price: €19. Wine: €8.40 (per litre carafe). Santo Spirito The Holy Spirit has décor straight from a romantic opera – a dark interior with red velvet curtains and cherubs on the walls – as well as loud classical music and late opening times (until 0200 or 0300). The restaurant has a mixed gay and straight clientele, although everyone is made to feel welcome. Dishes could include Gorgonzola and walnut ravioli in white wine sauce or chicken breast with cranberries, rosemary, marmalade and potato purée. It offers a superb selection of brunches named after famous composers. Reservations are necessary. Credit cards are not accepted. Kumpfgasse 7 Tel: (01) 512 9998. Price: €12. Wine: €17. Steirereck Awarded two Michelin stars, Steirereck is one of Vienna’s best traditional and nouvelle cuisine restaurants. Located on the Danube Canal, with exposed beams taken from a castle, the restaurant has a cosy atmosphere. The seasonal menu, with a Styrian bias, might include lamb in olive and paprika sauce or lobster and courgettes on saffron rice. The Austrian wine list is extremely comprehensive, as is their cheese selection – some of which they make themselves. Brunch (Weiner Gabelfrühstück) is comprised of an excellent selection of smaller dishes and the menu changes daily, depending on what is fresh at the markets. Closed Saturday and Sunday. Visa and MasterCard are accepted in the evenings only. Rasumofskygasse 2 (Tram N to Löwengasse) Tel: (01) 713 3168. Fax (01) 7135 1682. E-mail: wien@steirereck.at Website: www.steirereck.at Price: €75. Wine: €25. Sport Vienna, with its coffee and cakes, does not appear to be a very sporty city and to a certain extent this is true. Most of the sports in which the residents partake are situated outside the city. World-class skiing is available in the Alps, a couple of hours away. There are fantastic opportunities for hiking and mountain biking in the woods to the west of the city – cycling can be dangerous on some of the roads, however, as these are narrow and twisting in the mountains and the Austrians tend to navigate them at speed. There are also good lakes for sailing and other watersports throughout much of the country. Within Vienna itself, however, there are ample bathing spots along the Danube and the Old Danube (near the UNO-City). The car-free Donauinsel (Danube Island) provides one long cycling and rollerblading track. There is a skating rink, the Wiener Eislaufverein, within a 20-minute walk southeast of the cathedral (just outside the Am Stadtpark). The rink hires skates and is open between late October and early March, although it gets especially crowded at weekends. In terms of spectator sports, football is most popular, especially since Vienna has two Max Bundesliga (Premier League) teams. Neither team had a particularly good season in 2001/2002, however. SK Rapid Wien (website: www.skrapid.at), whose players have been wearing their green strip for a century, finished eighth in the league. Meanwhile FK Austria Memphis (website: www.fk-austria.at), formerly FK Austria Wien, finished fourth. The teams play at Gerhard Hanappi Stadion, Keisslergasse 6 (tel: (01) 914 5510; website: www.stadthalle.com) and Franz-Horr-Stadion, Fischhofgasse 14 (tel: (01) 688 0150), respectively. Tickets to sporting events are usually available at the gate, on the day of the match. However, it is better for visiting spectators to reserve tickets through Kartenbüro Flamm, Kärtner Ring 3 (tel: (01) 512 4225) or the Vienna Ticket Service, Borsegasse 1 (tel: (01) 534 1363; fax: (01) 534 1328). Fitness centres: There are a number of spas in the area surrounding Vienna, including Thermalbad Oberlaa, Kurbadstrasse 14 (tel: (01) 6800 99600; website: www.oberlaa.at), which is located in the Tenth District of the city. It offers two indoor and two outdoor swimming pools, sauna, solarium, massage and a light-and-sound relaxation bath. Prices start at €9.50 for two hours. The adjacent Wellness Park Oberlaa offers tennis, squash, badminton and fitness and aerobics facilities. To get there, visitors should take the U1 to Reumannplatz, then tram 67 to its end terminal. On the other side of the city, the Sportanlage Marco Polo, Ruthnergasse 170, in the 21st District (tel: (01) 292 3589), offers everything from a six-hole golf course and putting green to tennis, squash, a fitness centre and sauna – most facilities are open 0800-2300. A day membership starts at €7 and access to every facility costs €40. Transport is by bus 32A or 36A, although first-time visitors may find it easier to take a taxi from Florisdorf station on the S-Bahn and U6 U-Bahn lines. Golf: The nearest 18-hole golf course is the Wien Golf Club, Freudenau 65A (tel: (0222) 728 9564), where a round of golf costs €60 and membership is not required. There are also a number of courses situated outside the city. Tennis: Between its three locations, Tennisplätze Arsenal (website: www.aufdraht.at/arsenal) offers 57 outdoor courts and eight indoor courts. The most convenient location for visitors to Vienna is at Arsenalstrasse 3 (tel: (01) 799 0101), in the Third District (near the Südbahnhof rail station). The cost is €12 before 1600 and €16 thereafter. Shopping The most interesting shopping locale in Vienna is the inner city, with its narrow streets and elegant façades. The large pedestrian zones on Kärntner Strasse and Graben meet at the strikingly modern Haas Haus, the mirrored façade of which seems to mock St Stephen’s Cathedral, standing opposite. In addition to exclusive shops, the Haas Haus has a platform on the top floor, for sightseers who fancy a more face-to-face encounter with the cathedral. There are a number of architectural gems in this district – small shops with façades designed by some of Austria’s most famous architects, as well as smaller side streets, often hiding unique and interesting retail opportunities. The Ringstrassengalerien offers the convenience of a shopping centre, a short walk from the State Opera House. The traditional shopping street of the Viennese is Mariahilferstrasse, which stretches from the Ringstrasse towards the Westbahnhof rail station (above the U3 U-Bahn line) between the Sixth and Seventh Districts. This street is home to major international stores selling clothing, music and other familiar commodities, as well as the department stores, Gerngross and the Euro-Center. Among the many markets in the city, the most popular with locals and tourists alike is the Naschmarkt, a colourful array of fruit and vegetable stalls, shops and eateries, located between the Linke (left) and Rechte (right) Wienzeile streets, near Karlsplatz (beside Kettenbrükegasse U-Bahn station). The market is open within the normal shopping hours, Monday-Saturday. Between 0800 and 1200 on Saturday, the Flohmarkt (Flea Market) comes alive at the far end of the Naschmarkt. Some incredible bargains in second-hand clothes and goods, as well as more than a few unusual items, are on sale here. There are a number of Christmas and Advent markets in the city during the festive season. The most popular is the Christkindlmarkt, which is held in front of the Rathaus. Shoppers in search of souvenirs can choose from the many gifts that bear an image associated with Vienna – St Stephen’s Cathedral, the Giant Ferris Wheel or the Lipizzaner horses. Something a bit more distinctive, such as the Art Deco works produced by the artisans of the Wiener Werkstätten, is available from Joh Backhausen & Sons, Kärntnerstrasse 33. Wiener Porzellanmanufaktur Augarten, Europe’s second oldest porcelain manufacturer, once supplied its hand-painted wares to the Imperial family. Nowadays, visitors can tour its factory at Augartenpalais, in the Second District (tel: (01) 211 2418; fax: (01) 216 6833). Following strict criteria, the Vienna Chamber of Commerce only allows a limited number of companies to use the ‘Wien Products’ logo, a symbol of high quality craftsmanship (website: www.wienproducts.at). Shops are generally open Monday to Friday 0800 or 0900-1800 and Saturday 1200-1800 (shops are increasingly open until 1900). The 20% VAT can be reclaimed by visitors from outside the EU, on goods with a value exceeding €75. Visitors can do this at the airport, if travelling to a non-EU country. Otherwise, the claim must be made in the final EU country visited. To make a claim, the tax-cheque must be filled in at the time of purchase. After check-in at the airport, the purchased items and tax-cheque must be taken to customs clearance. The customs official will provide a tax stamp, which may be redeemed at any of the airport banks for cash in a variety of currencies. The rebate is approximately 13% of the purchase price. More information is available from Global Refund, Zetschegasse 17 (tel: (01) 798 4400; fax: (01) 798 4044; e-mail: taxfree@at.globalrefund.com; website: www.globalrefund.com). Culture Vienna’s role as the capital of an empire that lasted for centuries has meant that artists and musicians have flourished in the city. The musicians who have at one time lived and worked in Vienna are especially remembered by a series of annual festivals. Among the esteemed maestros are Johann Strauss, Franz Schubert, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Brahms, Schönberg and Mahler. It was in Vienna that Mozart created his operas and Strauss gave the world the Blue Danube waltz and such beloved operettas as Der Fledermaus. The city’s performance venues are of the highest calibre and include the world-renowned Staatsoper and the Burgtheater – one of the most important theatres in the German-speaking world. Vienna has been at the centre of a number of artistic movements, notably at the turn of the century, when the members of the Secessionist movement reacted against the rigidity of the bourgeois establishment and the constraints of figurative painting. These artistic periods are writ large in the variety of architecture that graces the city, from splendid Baroque palaces to Otto Wagner’s Art Nouveau U-Bahn stations (on the U4 line, notably Karlsplatz) and Postsparkasse (Post Office Savings Bank). There are wonderful Art Nouveau houses on the Linke Wienzeile (opposite the Naschmarkt) and delightful 20th-century buildings in the Innerestadt, including the Loos Haus (opposite the Hofburg) and boutiques by Hans Hollein. Not to be missed, however, is the Secession, designed by Joseph Maria Olbrich, in 1897. The striking exterior is only the beginning, for Gustav Klimt’s Beethoven frieze lies within. Famous painters, such as Klimt, Egon Schiele and, more recently, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, are an important part of Vienna’s artistic heritage and their works are popular attractions. Tickets to cultural events are available for purchase from all major concert venues and theatres. Bookings can also be make at Bundestheaterkassen, Hanuschgasse 3 (tel: (01) 5144 42960). A list of the many ticket agencies in Vienna is available online (website: www.magwien.gv.at/english/ticketing.htm). The tourist office at Albetinaplatz produces a monthly magazine of cultural events, called Programm. Another free monthly listing source is Wien Magazin (website: www.wienmagazin.at) and the weekly tabloid, Falter (website: www.falter.at), which is published (in German) each Wednesday. Classical concerts are listed under ‘Musik-E’, pop, jazz and folk are listed under ‘Musik-U’ and clubs are listed under ‘Party-time’ in the Wienprogramm & Lexikon, yet another weekly cultural magazine. Two other free weeklies are Winside (website: www.windside.at), published on Thursday, and the rather trashy City magazine. Online information on cultural events in Vienna is readily available (websites: www.viennaonline.at and www.magwien.gv.at/english). Music: Vienna is probably home to more classical music performances than any other city in the world. In addition to the regular season of performances, which generally runs from September to June, there are nine annual festivals and numerous special events. Almost completely obscured in the shadow of the past, is Vienna’s vibrant youth scene, with venues offering everything from punk bands to the latest pop favourites. The Wiener Staatsoper (Vienna State Opera), Hanuschgasse 3 (tel: (01) 5144 42960; fax: (01) 5144 42969; website: www.wiener-staatsoper.at), performs from a repertoire of nearly a hundred operas, operettas and ballets, daily from September to June. The splendid opera house makes for a romantic and regal setting in which to see the performances. Standing-room tickets are a bargain at €3.50 but the queue for tickets starts in the late afternoon. The Volksoper (People’s Opera), Währingerstrasse 78 (tel: (01) 5144 43318; fax: (01) 5144 42969; website: www.volksoper.at), is a somewhat smaller venue that stages performances from a repertoire of 50 different, lighter works, including musicals. The Vienna Boys’ Choir (website: www.wsk.at) is a Viennese institution, having been formed as the Boys’ Choir of the Royal Court in 1498. Together with members of the chorus and orchestra of the Vienna State Opera, they form the Hofmusikkapelle, which performs at Mass in the Chapel of the Imperial Palace, Sunday at 0915, September to June. Seats cost €5-30 (standing room is free). Tickets should be ordered at least ten weeks in advance from Hofmusikkapelle, Hofburg, 1010 Vienna (fax: (01) 5339 92775; website: www.wsk.at). The Vienna Boys’ Choir also performs concerts in the Brahms-Saal (Brahms Hall), the venue for chamber music in the Musikverein, Bösendorferstrasse 12 (tel: (01) 505 8190; fax: (01) 5058 68194; e-mail: tickets@musikverein.at; website: www.musikverein-wien.at), Friday at 1600, from April to June and September to October. The programme costs €6-36 and consists of madrigals and motets, waltz music and folk songs. Tickets are available from hotels or from the Mondial travel agency, Faulmanngasse 4, 1040 Vienna (tel: (01) 585 2688; fax: (01) 587 1268; e-mail: ticket@mondial.via.at; website: www.mondial-travel.com). The renowned Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra (tel: (01) 505 6525; fax: (01) 505 9220; e-mail: philoffice@wienerphilharmoniker.at; website: www.wienerphilharmoniker.at) performs at the Musikverein (see above). The annual New Year’s Eve concert is broadcast throughout the world, while the previous year’s concert is now available for viewing in the Haus der Musik (see Further Attractions). The Vienna Symphonic Orchestra (website: www.wiener-symphoniker.at) performs at the Wiener Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse 20 (tel: (01) 712 1211; fax: (01) 712 2872; e-mail: ticket@konzerthaus.at; website: www.konzerthaus.at), as well as a few other venues. The Konzerthaus is also home to the Wiener Singakademie choir (website: www.wienersingakademie.at) and hosts touring international orchestras. The Osterklang (Sounds of Easter) music festival (tel: (01) 4000 8410; fax: (01) 40009 98410; website: www.osterklang.at) takes place annually during Easter week. The festival includes performances by both the philharmonic and symphonic orchestras, chamber music concerts and a special opera performance, as well as touring international orchestras and a midnight mass concert in St Stephen’s Cathedral. Tickets cost €15-100 (depending on the venue and seating) and visitors can get hold of one by writing to Oster- und Klangbogen Kartenbüro, Stadiongasse 9, 1010 Vienna. Theatre: Like music, theatre also has a long and proud tradition in Vienna – the patronage of the Imperial Court has been an important factor in its development. There are 50 theatres in the city but the Burgtheater (Palace Theatre), Dr Karl Lueger Ring 2, First District (tel: (01) 5144 4440; website: www.burgtheater.at), stands at the forefront and is an intense source of pride to the Viennese. This impressive edifice is the oldest and one of the most important stages in the German-speaking world. Built on the Ringstrasse in the 19th century, the theatre stages classical and contemporary works of the very highest standards of production. Guided tours are available for €5, if booked in advance by writing to the theatre at Dr Karl-Lueger Ring, 1010 Vienna (tel: (01) 5144 42218; fax: (01) 5144 42624). The Akademietheater, Lisztstrasse 1, Third District (tel: (01) 5144 4740), is the smaller venue where the Burgtheater’s players also perform. The Volkstheater Neustiftgasse 1 (tel: (01) 524 7263/4; website: www.volkstheater), Theater in der Josefstadt, Josefstädter Strasse 26 (tel: (01) 42700; website: www.josefstgadt.org), and the Schauspielhaus, Porzellangasse 19 (tel: (01) 317 0101; website: www.schauspielhaus.at), which offers an ambitious experimental programme, all are important German-language theatres in Vienna. For English-language productions, Vienna’s English Theatre, Josefgasse 12 (tel: (01) 402 1260; fax: (01) 408 8003; website: www.englishtheatre.at), has an excellent reputation on the world stage, to the extent that many contemporary playwrights choose to premier their works here. There are also annual productions of French- and Italian-language works. The International Theatre, Porzellangasse 8 (tel: (01) 319 6272; fax: (01) 310 8997), offers a programme of American and English plays. There are also a number of cabarets in the city. The Viennese theatre season traditionally runs from September to June, although there are often special performances in the summer, particularly during one of the many festivals. The larger theatres stage daily productions, while the smaller ones may have one or two nights off. Dance: The Im Puls Tanz dance festival (website: www.impulstanz.com) takes place in July and August, with performances at the Volkstheater Neustiftgasse 1 (tel: (01) 524 7263/4; website: www.volkstheater.at), as well as other venues, where avant-garde dance is showcased by both local and international dance companies. Film: Many American and British films are shown in the original language, with subtitles. Listings are posted on kiosks and in Der Falter (website: www.falter.at). ‘OF’ after the film title indicates that it is shown in its original language without subtitles. ‘Omengu’ indicates that the film is in the original language with English subtitles, ‘OmU’ indicates original language with German subtitles and ‘OmÜ’ means the film is shown in its original language with live German translation. If the title is followed by ‘dF’, this indicates that the film is dubbed into German. Two of the Vienna’s finest cinema complexes are Apollo, Gumpendorferstrasse 63, Sixth District (tel: (01) 587 9651), and UCI Kinowelt, Lasallestrasse 71, Second District (tel: (01) 21100). Vienna cinemas that specialise in English-language films include the English Cinema Haydn, Mariahilferstrasse 57, Sixth District (tel: (01) 587 2262), and Flotten American Center, Mariahilferstrasse 85, Sixth District (tel: (01) 586 5152). The arthouse Bellaria, Museumstrasse 3, Seventh District (tel: (01) 523 7591), is exactly as it was when it opened just after the war. German films from 1928-1955 are shown in the afternoon and newer films in the evenings. Other arthouse cinemas include Filmcasino, Margaretenstrasse 78, Fourth District (tel: (01) 587 9062), Schikaneder, Margaretenstrasse 24, Fourth District (tel: (01) 585 2867), with an innovative programme including parties and exhibitions, and Votiv, Währigerstrasse 12, Ninth District (tel: (01) 317 3571; website: www.votivkino.at), with cinema-breakfasts on certain Sundays. During the break in the regular opera and classical music schedule (July and August), devotees can enjoy free opera and music films on the giant screen in front of the Rathaus. The 1949 Carol Reed film, The Third Man, presents an extremely well known vision of Vienna. In it, Orson Welles plays Harry Lime, who evades the authorities via the sewers and back alleys of bombed-out, post-war Vienna. The Burg-Kino, Opernring 19, shows this film every Friday at 2050 and Sunday at 1415. Amadeus (1984), another film set in Vienna – although shot mainly in Prague – takes a look at Mozart’s last years in the city and the jealousies and intrigues that filled the Imperial Court. For 20-something travellers to the city, Richard Linklater’s Before Sunrise (1995) is required viewing, as it portrays one romantic night in Vienna, between the time that two railway travellers meet up and then depart on their separate ways the following morning. Cultural events: The Wiener Festwochen (website: www.festwochen.or.at) takes place in May and June, featuring a variety of musical drama, avant-garde theatre, dance and other performances. The Klangbogen Festival (tel: (01) 4000 8410; fax: (01) 40009 98410; website: www.klangbogen.at) fills the gap in the classical music schedule with a number of operas, operettas and orchestral and chamber music events from late June until early September. The Donauinselfest (website: www.donauinselfest.at) offers a modern alternative to Vienna’s rich classical music scene. The end of June sees two million people flock to one of Europe’s biggest outdoor parties. This free event features pop, rock and folk concerts over the course of three days. Literary Notes Vienna has been featured in writing throughout the ages. One of the earliest depictions of the area appears in the Nibelungenlied (c.1200), a medieval epic partially set in the Wachau Valley, upstream from Vienna. Later on, when Vienna itself was flourishing, Mozart was probably the most famous inhabitant and he has certainly captured the imagination of those writing about the city. Peter Shaffer wrote the play, Amadeus (1979), about Mozart’s last years in the city. This was made into a film of the same name a few years later. A less thriving post-war Vienna is evocatively portrayed in Graham Greene’s novel, The Third Man (1949), also made into a film. Nightlife The most popular cluster of bars is around the Bermuda Dreieck (Bermuda Triangle), the old Jewish Quarter, in the area around Ruprechtskirche. Other districts with fewer tourists include the Spittelberg area, around Amerlinghaus (in the Seventh and Eighth Districts) and in the Fourth District, adjacent to the Naschmarkt. A lot of the best places in Vienna will not be obvious to tourists, as they are strictly marketed at the locals and are not necessarily in the centre of town. Quite a few clubs are filled with ‘schicki-micki’ (style-conscious) partygoers and many of these venues operate choosy door policies, where the beautiful or the correctly dressed waltz past the queue. Alternatives to the club and bar scene abound – hip and trendy Viennese still enjoy traditional favourites, such as Heurigen and the city’s many balls. Clubs generally stay open until 0200 during the week and 0400 on the weekend – there is, however, considerable variation. For late, late nights, there are quite a few bars in the First District that are open until 0300, 0400 or even later/earlier. The legal drinking age is 18 years. A beer costs, in general, between €3 and €4, rising to €4.50-5 for a small beer in more upmarket bars and clubs. For information on what kind of sound and crowd to expect on any given night of the week, pick up the Der Falter listings paper (website: www.falter.at) or check out the online information on the club scene (website: www.rave.at). Balls: The ball season takes place during Fasching, Vienna’s winter carnival season from New Year’s Eve until the beginning of Lent. Of the 300 or so balls, the most prestigious are the New Year’s Eve Imperial Ball and the Opera Ball. The latter is the highlight of the Viennese social calendar and takes place in on in the elegant surroundings of the Staatsoper, Hanuschgasse 3 (website: www.wiener-staatsoper), on the Thursday before Shrove Tuesday. Waltzers in long gowns and dinner jackets twirl under chandeliers, recalling the splendour and romance of a bygone era. New Year’s Eve is marked not only by the Kaiserball (Imperial Ball) in the Hofburg, Innerer Burghof 1, Kaisertor (website www.hofburg.com/d/va), but also by the conversion of the city centre into the world’s largest ballroom. Bars: The American Bar, Kärtnerdurchgang 1, lies just off Kärntner Strasse. Designed by the famous Austrian architect, Adolf Loos, in 1908, it is a small, quiet space that serves as a good getaway from the crowds. The Spittelberg area (Seventh District) is dotted with bars, including the perennially popular Amerlingsbeisl, Stiftgasse 8, with its leafy garden, and Blue Box, Richtergasse 8 (website: www.ping.at/bluebox), which hosts a different DJ each night. The Bermuda Triangle, in the Jewish area around Schwedenplatz, also contains many attractive bars. Other popular spots include Café Europa, Zollergasse 8, and Chelsea, Lerchenfeldergürtel 29-31 (website: www.silverserver.co.at/chelsea), situated under the S-Bahn arches, with regular live concerts and football by satellite from England. Casinos: The Casino Wien, Palais Esterházy, Kärntner Strasse 41 (website: www.casino-wien.at), is the most central of Vienna’s casinos. Casino Wien opens at 1500 and admission is free. The minimum age for admission is 18 years and either an identity card or passport must be shown. Chief games are roulette, blackjack and poker. There are also 184 slot machines. Dress is smart. Clubs: One of the hottest clubs in Vienna is Volksgarten, Burgring 1 (on the Ringstrasse), which offers raves on Friday and Saturday from 2200 until late in the morning and draws a very dressed-up crowd. Flex, Augartenbrücke (website: www.flex.at), draws ravers and all sorts of alternative types, while U4, Schönbrunner Strasse 222 (website: www.u4club.com), is still going strong, with a different theme every night of the week. P1, Rotgasse, is a popular spot for a (very) young international crowd. Club Roxy, Faulmanngasse 4 (website: www.sunshine.at/roxy/index.html), Lindbergh, Mahlerstrasse 11, and Atrium, Schwindgasse 4, are also worth checking out for a change from the techno scene – the music at these venues tends to be the latest dance hits and nothing too heavy. Coffee Houses (Kaffeehäuser): The coffee shops are an essential part of Viennese life. For the price of a coffee – anything upwards of €2 – one can sit all day with the papers, some work, a book, or just simply watch the world go by. The new ‘szene houses’ attract a young, trendy crowd. Stein, Kolingasse 1 (website: www.café-stein.com), is the king of the new style, with minimalist décor, online facilities, veggie fare and all-day breakfasts. Café Demel, Kohlmarkt 14, is the best and most expensive of the old-style cafés – the pastries are not to be missed. Heurigen: Originally the Viennese word for the wine of the latest harvest, the word heuriger now also refers to the place where this wine is sold. Each heuriger can only sell the wine produced on its own estate – and only for a maximum of 300 days per year. Although it is possible to have heuriger in the centre of the city, the best locations are in the small villages in the Tenth to 23rd Districts, such as Grinzing, Nussdorf, Heiligenstadt, Sievering and Stammersdorf. Live music: A converted port cinema, Porgy & Bess, Riemengasse 11 (website: www.porgy.or.at), near the Stubentor U-bahn stop, is now Vienna’s best jazz club. Clair Piano Bar, Naglergasse 23, and Jazzland, Franz-Josefs-Kai 23 (website: www.jazzland.at), both offer what their names suggest. Open-air concerts are held on the Donauinsel (Danube Island) in summer, while larger rock concerts are performed at the Ernst-Happel-Stadion, Meiereistrasse 2. The main indoor venue for large acts is the Wiener Stadthalle, Vogelweidplatz 14 (website: www.stadthalle.com). City Statistics Location: Vienna (federal province), eastern Austria. Country dialling code: 43. Population: 1,660,000 (city); 1,710,000 (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: Majority German, with Croatian, Slovenian and Hungarian minorities. Religion: 89% Roman Catholic, 6% Protestant, 5% other. Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50 Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: 1°C (34°F). Average July temp: 20°C (68°F). Annual rainfall: 616mm (24.3 inches). Special Events New Year’s Day, public holiday, 1 Jan, throughout the city Vienna Philharmonic’s New Year’s Concert, 1 Jan, Musikverein Carnival and Ball Season, 1 Jan-12 Feb, throughout the city Epiphany, public holiday, 6 Jan, throughout the city Resonanzen, Middle Ages/Baroque music, mid-Jan, Konzerthaus Opera Ball, 27 Feb, Staatsoper Haydn Festival, third week Feb-first week Mar, various venues Easter, public holiday taken from Good Friday to Easter Monday, late Mar/early Apr, throughout the city Vienna Spring Festival, arts festival with opera, concerts and plays, mid-Mar-mid-Apr, various venues Osterklang (Sounds of Easter), music festival, mid Apr, various venues Vienna Mozart Week, mid Apr, various venues May Day, public holiday, 1 May, throughout the city Ascension, public holiday, May, throughout the city Festwochen Wien (Vienna Festival), festival featuring music, drama and dance, mid-May-mid-Jun, throughout the city Vienna City Marathon, May, begins Arbeiterstrandbadstrasse/Wagramerstrasse and ends Heldenplatz Pentecost, public holiday taken on Whit Monday, late May/early Jun, throughout the city Corpus Christi, public holiday, late May/early Jun, throughout the city Donauinselfest (Danube Island Festival), contemporary music festival, mid Jun, Donauinsel Vienna Jazz Festival, first two weeks Jul, various venues Klangbogen (Musical Summer), music festival, Jul-Aug, various venues Assumption, public holiday, 15 Aug, throughout the city National Day, public holiday, 26 Oct, throughout the city Viennale Film Festival, end of Oct, various cinemas throughout the city Wien Modern, 20th-century music festival, late Oct-late Nov, various venues, especially the Konzerthaus All Saints’ Day, public holiday, 1 Nov, throughout the city International Choir Competition, mid Nov, Konzerthaus Brahms Festival, mid Nov, Musikverein Christkindlmarkt (Christmas Market), last Sun Nov-24 Dec, throughout city but especially at the Rathausplatz, Spittleberg Quarter, Freyung (corner of Innerstadt) Immaculate Conception, public holiday, 8 Dec, throughout the city Christmas, public holidays, 25-26 Dec, throughout the city Kaiserball (Imperial Ball), 31 Dec, Hofburg Silvester in Wien (New Year in Vienna), the Innerestadt is transformed into a ballroom, 31 Dec, Innerstadt Vienna Philharmonic’s New Year’s Concert, 31 Dec, Musikverein Cost of Living On 1 January 2002, the Austrian Schilling was replaced by the Euro. One-litre bottle of mineral water: €0.25-0.70 50cl bottle of beer: €0.40-0.70 Financial Times newspaper: €2.40 36-exposure colour film: €3.60-8.00 City-centre bus ticket: €1.50 Adult football ticket: €21 Three-course meal with wine/beer: from €18 1 Euro (€1) = £0.68; US$1.07; C$1.62; A$1.80; öS13.76 1 Austrian Schilling (öS1) = €0.07 Currency conversion rates as of February 2003 Business Services Business Contacts: Vienna Chamber of Commerce Stubenring 8-10, 1010 Vienna Tel: (01) 514 500. Fax: (01) 513 7787. Website: www.wkw.at Austrian Chamber of Commerce Wiedner Hauptstrasse 63, 1045 Vienna Tel: (01) 50105. Fax: (01) 5010 5250. Website: www.wko.at Austrian Trade Commission (UK) 45 Princes Gate, London SW7 2QA Tel: (020) 7584 4411. Fax: (020) 7584 2565. E-mail: london@wko.at Website: www.austriatrade.org/uk Austrian Trade Commission (USA) 32 Floor, 150 East 52nd Street, New York, NY 10022 Tel: (212) 421 5250. Fax: (212) 751 4675. E-mail: newyork@wko.at Website: www.austriantrade.org Offices also in: Atlanta, Chicago, Los Angeles and Washington, DC. Austrian Trade Commission (Canada) Suite 400, 2 Bloor Street West, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2 Tel: (416) 967 3348. Fax: (416) 967 4101. E-mail: toronto@wko.at Website: www.austriantrade.org Offices also in: Montréal and Vancouver. Austrian Foreign Trade Office (Australia) 19