Bhutan Overview Country Overview Bhutan, located in the eastern Himalayas, borders China to the north and India to the south, east and west. The altitude varies from 300m (1000ft) in the narrow lowland region to 7000m (22,000ft) in the Himalayan plateau in the north. The foothills are tropical and home to deer, lion, leopards and the rare golden monkey. The Inner Himalaya region is temperate; wildlife includes bear, boar and sambar and the area is rich in deciduous forests. Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, lies at a height of over 2400m (8000ft) in a fertile valley. It resembles a large, widely dispersed village rather than a capital. The yearly religious Thimphu Festival is held in the courtyard directly in front of the National Assembly Hall. A visit to the Paro Valley and the Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest) Monastery clinging to the face of a 900m (2952ft) precipice is highly recommended. Restaurants are scarce and most tourists eat vegetarian food served buffet-style in their hotels. Cheese is a popular ingredient, the most popular being dartsi (cow’s milk cheese). Rice is ubiquitous and is sometimes flavoured with saffron. The most popular drink is souza (Bhutanese tea). General Information Area: 46,500 sq km (17,954 sq miles). Population: 698,996 (official estimate 2001). Population Density: 15.0 per sq km. Capital: Thimphu. Population: 27,000 (official estimate 1990). GEOGRAPHY: Bhutan is located in the eastern Himalayas, bordered to the north by China and to the south, east and west by India. The altitude varies from 300m (1000ft) in the narrow lowland region to 7000m (22,000ft) in the Himalayan plateau in the north, and there are three distinct climatic regions. The foothills are tropical and home to deer, lion, leopards and the rare golden monkey as well as much tropical vegetation including many species of wild orchids. The Inner Himalaya region is temperate; wildlife includes bear, boar and sambar and the area is rich in deciduous forests. The High Himalaya region is very thinly populated, but the steep mountain slopes are the home of many species of animals including snow leopards and musk deer. Government: Constitutional Monarchy. Head of State and Government: Druk Gyalpo (‘Dragon King’) Jigme Singye Wangchuk since 1972. Language: Dzongkha is the official language. A large number of dialects are spoken, owing to the physical isolation of many villages. Sharchop Kha, from eastern Bhutan, is the most widely spoken. Nepali is common in the south of the country. English has been the language of educational instruction since 1964 and is widely spoken. Religion: Mahayana Buddhism is the state religion; the majority of Bhutanese people follow the Drukpa school of the Kagyupa sect. Those living in the south are mainly Hindu. Time: GMT + 6. Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Telephone Services are restricted to the main centres. Country code: 975. All other calls must go through the international operator. Outgoing international code: 00. Mobile telephone GSM 900 network operated by B-Mobile due in Summer 2003. Internet The main ISP is DrukNet (website: www.druknet.bt). There are four Internet cafes in Thimphu. Post Airmail letters to Bhutan can take up to two weeks. Mail from Bhutan is liable to disruption, although this is due not to the inefficiency of the service but rather to the highly prized nature of Bhutanese stamps which often results in their being steamed off the envelopes en route. Press There are very few papers, but Kuensel, a government news bulletin, is published weekly in English and The Bhutan Review is published monthly in English by the Human Rights Organisation of Bhutan. BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice): MHz 11.96 15.31 6.195 1.413 Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov): MHz 17.74 11.71 9.645 6.110 Passport/Visa   Passport Required? Visa Required? Return Ticket Required? British Yes Yes Yes Australian Yes Yes Yes Canadian Yes Yes Yes USA Yes Yes Yes OtherEU Yes Yes Yes Japanese Yes Yes Yes Restricted entry: Tourists to Bhutan are obliged to use Druk Air (the only airline serving Bhutan) either on entering or leaving the country). PASSPORTS: Valid passport required by all. VISAS: Required by all. Note: (a) There are two ways of entering Bhutan: by air to Paro Airport or by road to the Bhutanese border town of Phuntosholing. All travellers entering the country by road must ensure that they have the necessary documentation for transiting through that part of India to Phuntsholing. Consult the Passport/Visa section for India. Visitors are also advised to contact the Government of India Tourist Office to check exactly what special permits or other documents may be necessary as these regulations are subject to change at short notice. (b) Visitors are required to book with a registered tour operator in Bhutan which can be done directly through an affiliated travel agent abroad. (c) A yellow fever certificate is required by all if arriving within six days from an infected area. Types of visa and cost: Tourist: US$20 (payable in hard currency). Validity: Visas are initially granted for stays of up to 15 days. The Bhutan Tourism Corporation Limited (BTCL) can apply for an extension of tourist visas for an additional fee per person. Application to: Visa applications for all tourists processed by the travel/tour agent through the Tourism Authority of Bhutan (TAB). Only once the visa has been cleared can visitors travel to Bhutan. Visas are issued (stamped in passport) on arrival at Paro Airport or at Phuntsholing check post. Application requirements: (a) Application forms, which may be obtained from the BTCL who should be contacted directly (see Contact Addresses section). (b) Faxed details of passport to the BTCL prior to arrival. (c) All necessary documents for transiting India (see Note above). (d) Confirmed onward or return ticket. (e) Sufficient funds for length of stay (US$200 a day). (f) Fee. (g) Two passport-size photos. Working days required: Applications should be made at least 75 days before the intended date of arrival in Bhutan. Money Currency: 1 Ngultrum (NU) = 100 chetrum (Ch). The Ngultrum is pegged to the Indian Rupee (which is also acccepted as legal tender). Notes are in denominations of NU500, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. Coins are in denominations of NU1, and 100, 50, 25, 10 and 5 chetrum. US Dollars are also widely accepted throughout the kingdom. Currency exchange: Leading foreign currencies are accepted but travellers cheques are preferred and receive a better exchange rate. Major hotels in Thimphu and Phuntsholing, and the Olathang Hotel in Paro, will also exchange foreign currency. Credit & debit cards: American Express and Diners Club have very limited acceptability. Check with your credit, or debit, card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available. Travellers cheques: These can be exchanged in any branch of the Bank of Bhutan or at all BTCL hotels. Travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in US Dollars. Currency restrictions: None, but foreign currency must be declared on arrival. Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Ngultrum/Indian Rupee against Sterling and the US Dollar: Date May ’02 Aug ’02 Nov ’02 Feb’03 £1.00= 71.36 73.76 76.18 75.95 $1.00= 48.97 48.50 48.17 47.70 Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1300. Some smaller branches may be open Saturday or Sunday for currency exchange. Duty Free The following goods may be taken into Bhutan by travellers aged 17 years or over without incurring customs duty: 400 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 150g of tobacco; 2l of spirits. Prohibited items: Firearms, narcotics, plants, gold and silver bullion and obsolete currency. The export of antiques, religious objects, manuscripts, images and anthropological materials is strictly prohibited and closely monitored by the Bhutanese authorities. Note: Cameras, videos, mobile telephones and all other electronic equipment for personal use must be registered with the authorities on arrival and will be checked by customs on departure. Public Holidays Aug 8 2003 Independence Day. Nov 11 Birthday of HM Jigme Singye Wangchuck. Dec 17 National Day of Bhutan. Aug 8 2004 Independence Day. Nov 11 Birthday of HM Jigme Singye Wangchuck. Dec 17 National Day of Bhutan. Note: The traditional Buddhist holidays are observed, including Winter Solstice, Day of Offerings, Losar (New Year), Shabdung Kuchoey, Birthday of Drukgyal Sumpa, Lord Buddha’s Paranirvana, Coronation Day, Birthday of Guru Rinpoche, First Sermon of Lord Buddha, Death of Drukgyal Sumpa, Thimphu Drubchen, Thimphu Tsechu, The Blessed Rainy Day, Dasain and the Descending Day of Lord Buddha, Birthday of his Majesty the King, The Meeting of Nine Evils and the National Day. Buddhist festivals are declared according to local astronomical observations and it is not possible to forecast the date of their occurrence. Health   Special Precautions Certificate Required Yellow Fever Yes 1 Cholera Yes 2 Typhoid and Polio 3 N/A Malaria 4 N/A 1: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required by all travellers if coming from an infected area. 2: Following WHO guidelines issued in 1973, a cholera vaccination certificate is no longer a condition of entry to Bhutan. However, cholera is a serious risk in this country and precautions are essential. Up-to-date advice should be sought before deciding whether these precautions should include vaccination as medical opinion is divided over its effectiveness. See the Health appendix. 3: Typhoid fever is common. Poliomyelitis eradication has begun and is reducing the risk, although it must still be assumed to be a risk. 4: Malaria risk exists throughout the year in the southern belt of the following five districts: Chirang, Samchi, Samdrupjongkhar, Sarpang and Shemgang. Resistance to chloroquine and sulfadoxine/pyrimethamine has been reported in the malignant falciparum form of the disease. A weekly dosage of 300mg of chloroquine and a daily dosage of 200mg of proguanil is the recommended prophylaxis. Food & drink: All water should be regarded as being potentially contaminated. Water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should have first been boiled or otherwise sterilised. Milk is unpasteurised and should be boiled. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised, but make sure that it is reconstituted with pure water. Avoid all dairy products. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Pork, salad and mayonnaise may carry increased risk. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled. Other risks: Hepatitis A and E occur; hepatitis B is endemic. Giardiasis is common. Meningitis is a sporadic risk and vaccination is advised. TB exists. Visceral leishmaniasis is prevalent and a small risk of Japanese encephalitis exists in southern lowland areas. Altitude sickness may be a problem. Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information consult the Health appendix. Health care: There is no reciprocal health agreement with the UK. Full medical insurance is strongly advised. Medical facilities are good but scarce. Travel - International AIR: Druk Air (KB) (Royal Bhutan Airlines, website: www.drukair.com.bt), the national airline of Bhutan, is the only airline serving Bhutan and has just two 72-seater planes. It is compulsory for all visitors to Bhutan to travel at least one way by Druk Air. Owing to the changeable Himalayan weather, travellers may experience delays. Druk Air operates flights from Delhi and Calcutta (India), Dhaka (Bangladesh), Bangkok (Thailand) and Khatmandu (Nepal). The airline flies twice weekly to Delhi and Kathmandu, four times a week to Bangkok and Calcutta and once a week to Dhaka and Yangon (Myanmar). Additional flights are offered during the high seasons (from March to April and from September to October). International airports: Paro (PBH), Bhutan’s only airport, is located in a deep valley, some 2190m (7300ft) above sea level, surrounded by hills and high mountains. Operating conditions are fairly difficult and the approach into Paro airport is entirely by visual flight rules. Buses and taxis are available to the city centre (travel time – 90 minutes). Departure tax: NU300. RAIL: The nearest railhead is Siliguri (India). ROAD: The road from Bagdogra (West Bengal) enters Bhutan at the border town of Phuentsholing, which is 179km (111 miles) from Thimphu. Travel - Internal AIR: Druk Air operates an hour-long scenic mountain flight – the so-called ‘Kingdom of the Sky’ – which offers visitors spectacular views of the mountains, lakes and waterfalls that are part of Bhutan’s beautiful scenery. The plane’s seating capacity is 72, with 32. However, there are no domestic airline routes within Bhutan. ROAD: Traffic drives on the left. The country has a fairly good internal road network with 3100km (1926 miles) of surfaced road. The main routes run north from Phuntsholing to the western and central regions of Paro and Thimphu, and east–west across the Pele La Pass linking the valleys of the eastern region. The northern regions of the High Himalayas have no roads. Bus: Those services which were formerly government owned are now privately run, though yaks, ponies and mules are the chief forms of transportation. The main routes are from Phuntsholing to Thimphu, Thimphu to Bumthang, Bumthang to Tashigang, Tashigang to Samdrup Jongkar and from Tongsa to Gaylegphug. Documentation: International Driving Permit is required. TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times (in hours and minutes) from Thimphu to other major towns in the country.   Road Paro 1.30 P’sholing 6.00 W’phodrang 2.15 Punakha 2.30 Bumthang 8.45 Tongsa 6.45 Accommodation There are comfortable hotels, cottages and guest-houses (many constructed to accommodate foreign guests during the coronation of the present King in 1974). Hotels have hot and cold running water, electricity and room telephones. All hotels run by the Bhutan Tourism Corporation Limited are decorated in traditional Bhutanese style and are now equipped with international direct dial telephones and fax machines. For further information, contact the BTCL (see Contact Addresses section). Introduction The Kingdom of Bhutan has adopted a very cautious approach to tourism in an effort to avoid the negative impacts of tourism on the country’s culture and environment. All tourists must travel on a pre-planned, pre-paid, guided package tour. Independent travel is not permitted. The package rate is fixed and controlled by the Government and is followed by all travel agents. Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, lies at a height of over 2400m (8000ft) in the fertile valley traversed by the Wangchhu River. In many ways it resembles a large, widely dispersed village rather than a capital. The Tashichhodzong is the main administrative and religious centre of the country; it was rebuilt in 1961 after being damaged by fire and earthquake. Its hundred-odd spacious rooms house all the government departments and ministries, the National Assembly Hall, the Throne Room of the King and the country’s largest monastery, the summer headquarters of the Je Khempo and 2000 of his monks. The yearly Thimphu Festival is held in the courtyard directly in front of the National Assembly Hall. The Handicraft Emporium displays a wide assortment of beautifully handwoven and crafted products which make unique souvenirs. Simtokha, 8km (5 miles) from Thimphu, has Bhutan’s most ancient dzong (fortified monastery). The small town of Phuntsholing is a commercial and industrial centre as well as the gateway to Bhutan. A short walk from the hotel is the Kharbandi Monastery. Bhutan is well known for its stamps, and the best place to buy them is in Phuntsholing where the Philatelic Office of Bhutan has its headquarters. The first and only department store of Bhutan is also in Phuntsholing. Punakha is the former capital of the country; situated at a lower altitude, it enjoys a comparatively benign climate. The valley contains many sacred temples, including Machin Lhakhag where the remains of Ngawang Namgyal, the unifier of Bhutan, are entombed. Tongsa is the ancestral home of the Royal family. The Dzong at Tongsa commands a superb view of the river valley and contains a magnificent collection of rhino horn sculptures. The district of Wangdiphodrang is known for its slate carving and bamboo weaving. A visit to the Paro Valley, where the Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest) Monastery clings dizzily to the face of a 900m (2952ft) precipice, is highly recommended. Other attractions in the area include the Drukgyul Dzong, further up the Paro Valley (now in ruins after the earthquake in 1954), which once protected Bhutan against numerous Tibetan invasions; and the Paro Watchtower, which now houses the National Museum of Bhutan. The temperate Punakha Valley houses many sacred temples including the Machin Lhakhag in the Punakaha Dzong. The 3100m-high (10,170ft) Dochu La Pass commands a breathtaking view of the eastern Himalayan chain. Bumthang is the starting point for four- and seven-day cultural tours through the rural villages including Mongar. Tashigang, a silk-spinning district, has an interesting dzong. Useful information can be obtained from Bhutan Yodsel Tours (website: www.bhutanyodsel.com)and Treks or Yarkay Tours & Treks (website: www.bhutanyarkay.com). Sport & Activities Much of the pleasure of visiting Bhutan is enjoying the breathtaking scenery by trekking around the valleys and the mountain gorges. The rivers offer superb trout fishing. The country boasts over 320 varieties of birds, including the rare black-necked crane. The Manas Game Sanctuary has a wide variety of wildlife (a special permit is necessary). Archery is popular and competitions are held frequently providing an opportunity for the visitor to appreciate the skills of the Bhutanese in their national sport. Social Profile Food & Drink: Restaurants are relatively scarce and most tourists eat in their hotels. Meals are often buffet-style and mostly vegetarian. Cheese is a very popular ingredient in dishes and the most popular cheeses are dartsi (cow’s milk cheese), sometimes served in a dish with red chillies (ema dartsi), and yak cheese. Rice is ubiquitous, sometimes flavoured with saffron. The most popular drink is souza (Bhutanese tea). Shopping: Markets are held regularly, generally on Saturday and Sunday, and are a rich source of local clothing and jewellery, as well as foodstuffs. The handicraft emporium on the main street in the capital is open daily except Sunday and offers a magnificent assortment of handwoven and handcrafted goods. The Motithang Hotel in Thimphu has a souvenir shop. Silversmiths and goldsmiths in the Thimphu Valley are able to make handcrafted articles to order. Shopping hours: Mon-Sun 0900-2000 (closed Tue). Special Events: Buddhist festivals, full of masks, dancing and ritual, generally centre on Dzongs (fortified monasteries) in cobbled courtyards, the most famous of which is at Paro. More than 40 religious or folk dances are performed by the monks recounting tales of Buddhist history and myth. As the dates for these festivals are based on the Bhutanese lunar calendar it is difficult to predict them precisely. They are, however, numerous, and visitors should be able to witness and enjoy at least one of these extremely colourful events during their stay. Formal dress is required for all festivals. For a list of special events, contact the Tourism Corporation of Bhutan. Social Conventions: The lifestyle, manners and customs of the Bhutanese are in many respects unique to the area. The strongest influence on social conventions is the country’s state religion, and everywhere one can see the reminders of Buddhism and the original religion of Tibet, Bonism. There are no rigid clan systems, and equal rights exist between men and women. The majority of the Bhutanese live an agrarian lifestyle. The political leaders of the country have historically also been religious leaders. For years the country has deliberately isolated itself from visitors, and has only recently opened up to the outside world, a policy which is now to some extent being reversed. Tipping: Not widely practised. Business Profile Economy: Almost all the working population is involved in agriculture, forestry or fishing. The economy is therefore mainly one of subsistence and dependent on clement climatic conditions. The main products are cereals and timber – about 60 per cent of the land area is forested. There is some small-scale industry, contributing no more than five per cent of gross domestic product, which produces textiles, soap, matches, candles and carpets. Recent economic policy has concentrated on export industries, of which electric power generation and transmission is the major earner. Tourism and stamps are major sources of foreign exchange. India accounts for nearly 90 per cent of imports and nearly 70 per cent of exports. However, during the 1990s, Bhutan also developed valuable trading links with Bangladesh. Bhutan is a member of the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation, which seeks to improve economic and commercial links in the region. Business: Lightweight or tropical suit or a shirt and tie for the south. In the capital, a full business suit and tie are recommended. The best time to visit for business is October and November. Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Bhutan Chamber of Commerce and Industry, PO Box 147, Thimphu (tel: (2) 322 742 or 324 254 or 323 140; fax: (2) 323 936; e-mail: bsdbcci@druknet.bt or bcci@druknet.bt; website: www.bcci.com.bt). Conferences/Conventions: The BTCL can offer advice; for contact details, see Contact Addresses section. Climate There are four distinct seasons similiar in their divisions to those of Western Europe. The Monsoon occurs between June and August when the temperature is normally between 8° and 21°C (46°-70°F). Temperatures drop dramatically with increases in altitude. Days are usually very pleasant (average about 10°C/50°F) with clear skies and sunshine. Nights are cold and require heavy woollen clothing, particularly in winter. Generally October, November and April to mid-June are the best times to visit – rainfall is at a minimum and temperatures are conducive to active days of sightseeing. The foothills are also very pleasant during the winter. Required clothing: Lightweight cottons in the foothills, also linens and waterproof gear, light sweaters and jackets for the evenings. Upland areas: woollens for evenings, particularly during the winter months. History and Government History: Existing archives trace Bhutanese history back to AD 450 but many of the intervening events remain a mystery. Bhutan has never been conquered or ruled by another foreign power. It first became a coherent political entity around the 17th century under the direction of a succession of Tibetan lamas who established an administrative and political structure over the area, relying principally on the appointment of a set of regional governors. Spiritual and temporal roles were subsequently divided among the leadership (known as dharma raja and deb raja respectively). The UK first came into formal contact with Bhutan in the 18th century, as a result of which the East India Company made a treaty with the territory in 1774. Throughout the 19th century, a series of struggles for influence between the regional governors destabilised the country. In 1910, the British government took control of Bhutan’s foreign affairs, while agreeing not to interfere with the internal ruling. Meanwhile, the first of the present dynasty of hereditary rulers – who reunited the spiritual and temporal aspects of their mission – worked to consolidate their position. In 1947 and 1949, agreements were reached with India by which the Indian government advised Bhutan on external relations. Trade agreements with India, essential to sustain the Bhutanese economy, have been the subject of regular rounds of negotiation. The most recent pact, concluded in Thimphu in 1990, was accompanied by diplomatic progress on the still-disputed border between the two countries. The presence on Bhutani territory of Assamese guerrillas seeking independence from India for their region of northeast India has also proved an irritant in bilateral relations; there has been an upsurge of Assamese activity since the beginning of 2000. Despite its close relations with Delhi, Bhutan has occasionally switched its support to its other great neighbour, China. This has been particularly noticeable in international forums, such as the Non-Aligned Movement and the UN General Assembly, which Bhutan joined in 1971. Relations with China have been dominated over the years by the issue of Tibet: thousands of refugees entered Bhutan after the Chinese occupation of Tibet in 1959 and the country has since become a centre for Tibetan exile politics. The refugee issue also dominates relations with Nepal, which hosts an estimated 100,000 refugees housed in camps in the east of the country. Most are ethnic Nepalis who say that they are Bhutanese nationals, although the Bhutanese say that they have relinquished their citizenship. (The Bhutanese population is divided between two main ethnic groups, the Nepalis and the Drupka). The Nepali government wants them to return to Bhutan; the Bhutanese are reluctant to take them. Talks have been underway since November 2001 to resolve the issue. An important reason for the Bhutanese attitude is that the main domestic challenge to the Bhutanese regime has come from the illegal, and Nepali-dominated Bhutan People’s Party (BPP). The BPP has campaigned for greater democracy through demonstrations and occasional acts of violence. The monarch, Jigme Singye Wangchuck (the fourth of the current dynasty), has so far relied on a mixture of repression and controlled development to keep the lid on the unrest, which persisted in most parts of the country throughout the 1990s (without seriously threatening the regime). Anything that may pose a threat to the established social order is excluded from this mountainous, isolated country. Foreign tourists were not admitted until 1974, the country’s only television station only began broadcasting in 1999 and a single Internet provider began operating at the same time. Bhutan was, however, an enthusiastic founder member of the South Asian Association for Regional Co-operation and hosted the inaugural meeting in 1985. Government: Bhutan has no written constitution and is ruled by a monarchy. Power is shared between the King, the Tshogdu (National Assembly) and the Je Khemp (Monastic Head) of the lamas. Of the 151-member Tsogu, 105 members are elected by adult suffrage. The remaining seats are reserved for officials, members of the King’s advisory council and religious bodies. Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.