Botswana Overview Country Overview Botswana borders South Africa to the south and east, Zimbabwe to the northeast and Namibia to the north. The tableland of the Kalahari Desert covers most of the country and the national parks cover an additional 17 per cent. The vast arid sandveld of the Kalahari occupies much of north, central and western Botswana. Gaborone, the capital, is situated in the southeast of the country and features an excellent National Museum with natural history and ethnological exhibitions, but it is Botswana’s national parks and game reserves that are the real attraction. The Okavango Delta area, northwards in the Kalahari Desert, is home to more than 300 exotic species and a variety of fauna. It is extremely beautiful, composed of vast grass flats, low tree-covered ridges and lagoons. The Moremi Wildlife Reserve in southern Africa, covering 1812 sq km (700 sq miles) in the northeast corner of the Okavango Delta, is spectacular. Small boats travel the delta through lagoons abundant with birdlife. Most lodges and safari camps have restaurants and licensed bars. General Information Area: 581,730 sq km (224,607 sq miles). Population: 1,611,021 (official estimate 1999). Population Density: 2.8 per sq km. Capital: Gaborone. Population: 202,680 (official estimate 1999). GEOGRAPHY: Botswana is bordered to the south and east by South Africa, to the northeast by Zimbabwe, to the north and west by Namibia and touches Zambia just west of the Victoria Falls. The tableland of the Kalahari Desert covers most of Botswana. National parks cover 17 per cent of the country, with 38 per cent of the country dedicated to wildlife areas. To the northwest is the Okavango Delta, the largest inland delta in the world. The Moremi Game Reserve occupies two-thirds of the delta’s area. The Chobe National Park in the north includes the Savute and Linyanti regions. To the far southwest is the Kgalagadi Transfrontier National Park, which ranges across the borders of Botwana, South Africa and Namibia, but is managed as a single entity. The majority of the population lives in the southeast around Gaborone, Serowe and Kanye along the South African border. The vast arid sandveld of the Kalahari occupies much of north, central and western Botswana. The seasonal rains bring a considerable difference to the vegetation, especially in the Makgadikgadi Pans and the Okavango Delta in the north. The latter, after the winter floods, provides one of the wildest and most beautiful nature reserves in Africa. Government: Republic since 1966. Head of State and Government: President Festus Mogae since 1998. Language: English is the official language. Setswana is the national language. Religion: 30 per cent Christian. The majority of the population holds animistic beliefs. There are small Muslim communities. The Bahá’í Faith is also represented. Time: GMT + 2. Electricity: 220-240 volts AC, 50Hz. Fifteen- and 13-amp plug sockets are in use. Communications:   Telephone IDD is available to over 80 countries. Country code: 267. Outgoing international code: 00. There are very few public phone boxes. Mobile telephone GSM 900 network. Local providers include Mascom (website: www.mascom.bw) and Vista Cellular. Coverage is limited to the main inhabited areas. Fax Widely available in urban areas, although there are very few facilities in wildlife areas. Internet Local ISPs include IBIS and Mega (website: www.mega.bw). Telegram There are facilities in Gaborone and other large centres (usually in major hotels and main post offices). Post There are post offices in all towns and the larger villages, open weekdays 0815-1245 and 1400-1600 and Sat 0800-1100. Services are slow but cheap. Airmail service to Europe takes from one to three weeks. There are post offices in all the main towns, although there are no deliveries and post must be collected from boxes. Press The daily newspaper is the Dikgang tsa Gompieno (Botswana Daily News), published in Setswana and English. Other English-language newspapers include Mmegi (The Reporter), The Midweek Sun, The Botswana Gazette and The Botswana Guardian. BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice): MHz 21.47 12.10 11.94 6.005 Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov): MHz 15.58 11.98 6.035 0.909 Passport/Visa   Passport Required? Visa Required? Return Ticket Required? British Yes No Yes Australian Yes No Yes Canadian Yes No Yes USA Yes No Yes OtherEU Yes No Yes Japanese Yes No Yes PASSPORTS: Passports valid for at least 12 months required by all. VISAS: Required by all except the following for stays of up to 90 days: (a) nationals referred to in the chart above; (b) nationals of Commonwealth countries (except nationals of Bangladesh, Cameroon, Ghana, India, Mozambique, Nigeria, Pakistan and Sri Lanka, who do require visas); (c) nationals of Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway, San Marino, Switzerland, Uruguay and Yugoslavia (Serbia & Montenegro); (d) transit passengers provided continuing their journey by the same or first connecting aircraft and not leaving the airport. Types of visa and cost: General Entry: £5 (single- or multiple-entry). Validity: Maximum of 90 days from the date of issue. No visitor is allowed to seek employment. Application to: Consulate (or Consular Section at Embassy or High Commission); see Contact Addresses section. Application requirements: (a) Two completed application forms. (b) Two passport-size photos. (c) Passport valid for at least 12 months, with at least one blank page. (d) Fee (cash or postal order only). (e) Tourists going on safari must be able to produce evidence of their itinerary in Botswana and a valid return ticket if required to do so. (f) Letter of invitation or letter of offer of employment and flight booking details if travelling on business. Temporary residence: Anyone wishing to stay for more than 90 days should contact the Immigration and Passport Control Officer, PO Box 942, Gaborone. Working days required: Five. Money Currency: Pula (P) = 100 thebe. Notes are in denominations of P100, 50, 20, 10 and 5. Coins are in denominations of P5, 2 and 1, and 50, 25, 10 and 5 thebe. Various gold and silver coins were issued to mark the country’s tenth anniversary of independence, and are still legal tender. Currency exchange: Money should be exchanged in banks at market rates. Owing to limited facilities in small villages, it is advisable to change money at the airport or in major towns. Credit & debit cards: MasterCard, American Express, Diners Club and Visa are accepted on a limited basis. However, the majority of tourist facilities accept credit cards. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available. Travellers cheques: To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in US Dollars or Pounds Sterling. Most hotels accept travellers cheques, but the surcharge may be high. Currency restrictions: There are no restrictions on the import of local or foreign currencies, provided declared on arrival. Export of local currency is limited to P50 and foreign currencies up to amount declared on arrival. Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Pula against Sterling and the US Dollar: Date May ’02 Aug ’02 Nov ’02 Feb ’03 £1.00= 8.96 9.77 9.28 8.29 $1.00= 6.15 6.42 5.87 5.20 Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1530, Sat 0815-1045. Duty Free The following goods may be imported into Botswana without incurring customs duty: 400 cigarettes and 50 cigars and 250g of tobacco; 2l of wine and 1l of spirits; 50ml of perfume and 250ml of eau de toilette; goods up to the value of P500. Public Holidays Jan 1-2 2003 New Year. May 1 Labour Day. May 29 Ascension Day. Jul 1 Sir Seretse Khama Day. Jul 15-16 President’s Day. Sep 30 Botswana Day. Dec 25-26 Christmas. Jan 1-2 2004 New Year. May 1 Labour Day. May 20 Ascension Day. Jul 1 Sir Seretse Khama Day. Jul 15-16 President’s Day. Sep 30 Botswana Day. Dec 25-26 Christmas. Health   Special Precautions Certificate Required Yellow Fever No No Cholera No No Typhoid and Polio 1 N/A Malaria 2 N/A 1: Risk of typhoid fever exists throughout the region especially if travelling outside cities. Botswana is practically free of poliomyelitis. 2: Malaria risk exists from November to May/June in the northern part of the country (Boteti, Chobe, Ngamiland, Okavango and Tutume districts/subdistricts), predominantly in the malignant falciparum form. A weekly dose of 300mg chloroquine plus a daily dose of 200mg proguanil is the recommended prophylaxis. Food & drink: Tap water is considered safe to drink, although drinking water outside main cities and towns may be contaminated and sterilisation is advisable. Mineral water is available in most tourist centres. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Local meat, poultry, seafood, fruit and vegetables are generally considered safe to eat. Other risks: Hepatitis A occurs. Hepatitis B is hyperendemic. Bilharzia (schistosomiasis) is endemic. Avoid swimming and paddling in fresh water. Swimming pools which are well chlorinated and maintained are safe. Trypanosomiasis (sleeping sickness) is transmitted by tsetse flies in the Moremi Wildlife Reserve, Ngamiland and western parts of the Chobe National Park. Protective clothing and insect repellant are recommended. Tick-bite fever can be a problem when walking in the bush. It is advisable to wear loose-fitting clothes and to search the body for ticks. The disease may be treated with tetracycline, though pregnant women and children under eight years of age should not take this medicine. Natural foci of plague have been reported. Rabies is present in animals. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information consult the Health appendix. Health care: The dust and heat may cause problems for asthmatics and people with allergies to dust. Those with sensitive skin should take precautions. Botswana’s altitude, 1000m (3300ft) above sea level, reduces the filtering effect of the atmosphere. Hats and sunscreen are advised. There are hospitals in all main towns. All main towns have chemists, and pharmaceutical supplies are readily available. Health insurance is essential. There is a government medical scheme and medicines supplied by government hospitals are free. Travel - International AIR: The national airline is Air Botswana (BP) which only operates within Africa. The airline’s agent in the UK is British Airways (tel: (0845) 773 3377). There are no direct flights from London to Gaborone but regular connections can be made from Johannesburg, Windhoek, Harare and Victoria Falls. Other airlines serving Botswana include South African Airways. Approximate flight times: From Gaborone to London is 15 hours (including stopovers). Departure tax: None. International airports: Sir Seretse Khama International (GBE) is 15km (9 miles) northwest of Gaborone. There are no regular bus services to and from the airport but several hotels run minibuses (combis). Taxis are available to the city centre (travel time – 15 minutes). Airport facilities include left luggage (0530-1800), bank (Barclays Bank available for all flights), bar (0800-1830), snack bar (0800-1830), restaurant (0800-1830), post office (0800-1700), shops and car hire (Avis and Imperial). There is a major airport at Kasane (north Botswana). Maun International Airport (MUB) receives direct flights from Johannesburg, Windhoek and Gaborone. This gateway to the Okavango Delta is served by Air Botswana, Air Namibia and several charters. For information on charters, see the Travel – Internal section. RIVER: A car ferry operates across the Zambezi River to Zambia. RAIL: There are good connections between South Africa and Botswana (Johannesburg–Mafikeng–Ramatlhabama–Gaborone) and Botswana and Zimbabwe (Gaborone–Francistown–Bulawayo–Harare). From Gaborone to Bulawayo takes 20 hours; passengers are advised to take their own food and drink as the buffet has a limited range. There are three classes, and sleeping compartments are available. First-class cars have comfortable reclining seats. Complicated formalities may be necessary for crossing the border from Zimbabwe and to or from South Africa, where the South African Customs Union agreement is in operation. Botswana has assisted in the construction of the Limpopo line from Zimbabwe to Mozambique, an act which will speed up the availability of alternative routes into Botswana. Other plans include extending the network into Namibia. ROAD: There are reasonable roads running roughly along the same routes as the railway, linking Botswana with South Africa and Zimbabwe. There is also road access from Namibia. Bus: Services are available from Namibia and Zimbabwe. Frequent services also operate between Gabarone and Johannesburg. Travel - Internal AIR: Major areas of the country are linked by air. There are airports in Francistown, Maun, Selebi-Phikwe, Ghanzi, Pont Drift, Kasane and Jwaneny. Many visitors use charter companies based in Maun to fly to the various lodges in Botswana. These include Delta Air (tel: 661 682), Mack Air ( tel: 661 508), Moremi Air Services (662 078), Northern Air (660 385), Sefofane (660 778) and Wildlife Helicopters (660 664). Kalahari Air Services PO Box 41278, Gaborone (tel: 351 804) offers charters within Botswana and to Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho, Swaziland, Zimbabwe and Zambia. RAIL: The main railway line runs between Ramatlhabama and Francistown. Work on upgrading and extending the rail network continues. In Botswana, children under seven travel free and children aged seven to 11 pay half fare. ROAD: Botswana has tarmac roads on the following routes: running from south to north from Lobatse to Francistown up to Ramokgwebana and from Lobatse to Jwaneng; running from Francistown to Kazungula via Nata. There are over 2500km (1500 miles) of bitumised roads in the country. Others are either gravel or sand tracks. There are plans to construct a road network with more major highways. Reserve fuel and at least 20l of water should always be carried on journeys into more remote areas, and visitors are advised to make careful enquiries before setting out. Bus: There are bus services between Gaborone and Francistown, and from Francistown to Nata and Maun. Buses from Francistown to Maun run every day. The journey takes about six hours. Timetables can be obtained from bus operators. Travel within major towns is by taxi. Car hire: Services are available in Gaborone, Francistown or Maun. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are necessary in many areas. Traffic drives on the left and seat belts must be worn. It is advisable to keep the petrol tank at least half full as distances between towns can be long. There is a speed limit of 120kph (75mph) outside built-up areas, and about 60kph (37mph) in built-up areas. Speed limits are strongly enforced with high fines. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is not legally required, but is recommended for stays of up to six months; thereafter, a Botswana driving licence must be obtained, which will be issued without a test if a valid British licence is produced. URBAN: Public transport within towns consists of share-taxis or minibus services operating at controlled flat fares. Exclusive use of taxis is sometimes available at a higher charge although fares should always be agreed before setting off. TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times from Gaborone (in hours and minutes) to other major cities and towns in Botswana.   Air Road Rail Francistown 0.50 5.00 6.35 Selebi-Phikwe 1.00 4.30 - Jwaneng - 1.30 - Orapa - 5.00 - Lobatse 0.20 0.45 1.50 Maun 1.30 12.00 - Kasane 2.50 13.30 - Tshabong 2.00 15.00 - Ghanzi 1.25 11.00 - Accommodation HOTELS: Although there is no grading system, all hotels generally maintain a reasonable standard, particularly those in main centres in the east of the country. The largest number of hotels and motels are in or near Gaborone, Francistown Kasane and Maun, some with air-conditioning, swimming pools and facilities for films, bands and entertainment. Many other hotels have fairly basic amenities. SAFARI LODGES & CAMPS: The majority of the safari lodges are found in the Chobe National Park, Moremi Game Reserve and Okavango Delta and there are a few lodges and camps in the Makgadikgadi Pans and Tuli Block. Standards are generally high, with luxury and comfort being the order of the day. Some lodges are permanent structures but the majority are tented. The tents are luxurious and spacious with en-suite facilities. Most lodges only accommodate between ten and 28 people so the accent is on personalised service. Along the banks of the Chobe river near Kasane, there are also luxury hotels and lodges. It is recommended to spend at least two nights at each lodge and do a circuit of the various tourist regions in the country. Charter flights on six-seater planes are the standard means of transfer. Visitors can also do a mobile safari, camping in a variety of different regions. Standards on these vary from simple to luxurious. CAMPING: There are campsites at Moremi Game Reserve, Chobe National Park, Nxai Pan National Park and Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. These campsites need to be pre-booked with the Department of Wildlife and National Parks. Permission should be sought before camping on private land. Grass fires should not be started, and all litter should be buried or removed. The presence of lions and other dangerous animals in all the National Parks and Game Reserves as well as in some of the more remote areas makes it advisable to exercise extreme care, such as keeping tents zipped up and not walking around at night. It is not permitted to leave your vehicle in a national park or game reserve unless in a designated camping or picnic area. A booklet entitled Where To Stay In Botswana, giving details of prices and facilities, may be obtained from the Department of Tourism (see Contact Addresses section). The following is an umbrella organisation comprising hotels and lodges, travel agents, tour operators and airlines: The Hotel and Tourism Association of Botswana (HATAB), Private Bag 00423, Gaborone (tel: 357 144; fax: 303 201; e-mail: HATAB@info.bw). Introduction Botswana is a vast, flat dry land, as big as France, but with a population of only 1.6 million, many of whom live in or near the two main cities of Gaborone and Francistown. Over 80 per cent of the country is semi-desert, but, in spite of this, abundant wildlife thrives, and with so few people, Botswana boasts the largest percentage of land given over to wildlife in the world – a remarkable 17 per cent is national park, and with the many huge private concessions in the Okavango Delta and Tuli Block, it reaches a staggering 38 per cent. All national parks and game reserves have camping areas. For all information and reservations within the National Parks, contact the Department of Wildlife and National Parks, PO Box 20365, next to Police Station, Maun (tel: 661 265; fax: 661 264); and PO Box 131, Queens Road, Government Enclave, Gaborone (tel: 580 774; fax: 580 775; e-mail: parks.reservations.gaborone@gov.bw; website: www.gov.bw/tourism). The Southeast GABORONE: The capital, Gaborone, is situated in the southeast of the country. There is an excellent National Museum open from Tues-Fri 0900-1800 and weekends 0900-1700, with natural history and ethnological exhibitions. As well as permanent displays, there are also temporary exhibitions and various symposia and conferences. Gaborone has several good bookshops and libraries, including the University of Botswana Library which has a ‘Botswana Room’ devoted solely to publications on the country. There are good craft shops and markets in the town, where pottery, basketwork, leatherwork and handwoven objects can be bought. Excursions: The 600 ha Gaborone Game Reserve, along the Ngotwane River, about 5km east of central Gaborone, is nothing like as good for game as the major parks, but does have a number of species of antelope. Ten kilometres southwest of the city is the privately operated, 3000 ha Mokolodi Nature Reserve, where visitors can go on guided game walks amongst the elephant, cheetah, leopard, and antelope. Both reserves have small numbers of white rhino. The St Claire Lion Park, 14km from the city on the Lobatse road, is a good place to see the animals up close, but in a situation far from a natural environment. It also has a vulture restaurant, children’s playground, riding and other entertainments. The Gaborone Dam is a centre for watersports, and day trips can be made to see local crafts at Oodi, Thamaga and Pilane. A trip to the weaving centre at Lentswe-La-Odi, just north of Gaborone, is especially recommended. Local craftwork can be bought here at a fraction of its cost in the big cities. The centre is a non-profitmaking organisation, with proceeds going back to the craftspeople. Mochudi, also north of Gaborone, is the regional capital of the Bakgatla tribe. The Phuthadikobo Museum chronicles the history of the Bakgatla people in fascinating detail. SEROWE: Halfway between Gaborone and Francistown, Serowe is one of the largest villages in Botswana, the seat of the Bangwato tribe, and the birthplace of Botswana’s charismatic first president, Sir Seretse Khama. He is buried in the local graveyard. The Khama III Memorial Museum, located in the Red House at the base of the Serowe Hill has memorabilia of the Khama Family. On Khama III’s grave (Sir Seretse’s grandfather) is a bronze duiker sculpted by the famous South African artist Anton van Wouw. Thathaganyana Hill is home to the ruins of an 11th-century settlement. Nearby, the small Khama Rhino Sanctuary houses almost all of Botswana’s rhino collection, gathered here to protect them from poachers. There are also 28 other animal species and over 150 bird species. THE TULI BLOCK: This patchwork of private game ranches and concessions covers about 120,000 hectares in the southeastern corner of the country adjacent to South Africa. It is quite different to anywhere else in Botswana with ruggedly beautiful countryside famed for both its birdwatching potential and its large herds of elephant. The pot pourri of rocks, varying in age from 2700 million to 3700 million years old, makes for incredible scenery. Horseriding safaris are available as are mountain bike tours. Mashatu main camp and Mashatu tented camp are in the area. The Northeast FRANCISTOWN: Francistown is a stopping-off point for visitors on the way to the Okavango, Moremi and Chobe game reserves. The area has been inhabited for about 80,000 years, but the town was created in 1867 with the discovery of gold. There are still mines working in the area. The Supa-Ngwao Museum has displays on local history, an information centre and a craft shop with books and maps. There are several reasonable hotels and restaurants, and some of Botswana’s best nightlife, which is still somewhat limited. MAKGADIKGADI AND NXAI PANS: Situated only 37km (23 miles) north of the main Francistown to Maun road, the entrance to Nxai Pan National Park marks the start of a vast area (roughly the size of Portugal) once covered in giant, shallow salt lakes. Only rare shallow islands of palms and baobabs break the flatness of the countryside. The 2578 sq km park, incorporating the Nxai and Kgama-Kgama Pans, is grassland, teeming with plain animals such as zebra and wildebeest. The sands of the Makgadikgadi Pans, part of which is protected by a 4900 sq km national park, gleam white with salt in the dry season, transform into a shimmering lake in the rainy season, when thousands of brilliant pink flamingoes arrive to paddle in the brine. Herds of zebra and wildebeest also come to drink here. When the Makgadikgadi loses its water the animals move on to the Boteti River where they remain until the following rainy season, which heralds their movement northwards again to the Nxai Pan. A new cultural village, Planet Baobab, has been established close to the Nxai Pan, and luxury camps in this area include Jack’s Camp and San Camp. Non-game-viewing activities include quad biking in the dry season. The Northwest KASANE: Both border crossing and safari town, Kasane lies on the Chobe River between the Chobe National Park and the Zimbabwean border. It is a pleasant little town, with a good range of lodges, hotels and campsites including the Cresta Mowana, Chobe Game Lodge, Chobe Chilwero and Chobe Valley Lodge (all in the luxury end of the market); and Kubu Lodge and Chobe Safari Lodge and Kasane Marina Lodge (standard accommodation). It also has an airport, used mainly by charter flights taking people deep into the Delta or southern Chobe; most international arrivals use Victoria Falls, only 40 minutes’ drive away, in Zimbabwe. Like Maun, Kasane has a wide range of tour operators and facilities such as banks. CHOBE NATIONAL PARK: An area of 10,566 sq km (4081 square miles) this is the home of a splendid variety of wildlife, including elephants who move in their thousands along the well-worn paths of the Chobe River every afternoon to drink. Chobe boasts the highest elephant population in the world, with an estimated 45,000 to 90,000 elephant. There are also large herds of buffalo to be seen at the river’s edge, as well as hippo, lechwe, kudu, impala, roan and puku. The tourists, like the elephants all tend to congregate in a narrow, 20km (12 mile) strip in the north of the park, doing game drives from the lodges in Kasane. It is undoubtedly spectacular, but it is also very crowded with other vehicles and boats. In an effort to spread people and elephants out and save the river’s eco-system, the park authorities are now pumping water to a series of waterholes in the Nogatsaa area, about 65km (40 miles) south. As yet, there are only simple campsites in this dry area, but better facilities are being planned. Further south and west, the Linyanti Marshes are a mini-version of the Okavango, a river twisted by a volcanic fault to splay out into a lush green, animal rich oasis. Nearby the Savuti area marks the northern shore of what was once the giant superlake which covered most of Botswana, its flat dry lakebed now a sea of grass, scattered by rocky kopjes beloved of leopards and baboons. With the exception of certain sections, which are closed in the rainy season during November to April, the park is open throughout the year. The best time to visit it is between May and September when it is possible to see several thousand animals in a day. In the Linyanti region the camps include Kings Pool Camp, Selinda Camp, Zibalianja and Lebala Lodge. Although this is the most developed of Botswana’s parks and reserves, many of the roads in the area are passable only by four-wheel-drive vehicles. THE TSODILO HILLS: Situated northwest of the Okavango Delta close to the border with the Caprivi Strip (Namibia), these four granite ridged hills (Male, Female and Child Hills, plus a fourth, unnamed and said to be the first, discarded wife) are considered to be a sacred site by the Basarwa (San or Bushmen), who regard them as the final resting place of the dead, and the home of the gods. Known to have been inhabited for at least 100,000 years, they have been decorated with around 4000 rock paintings, mostly portraying animal life; the eldest of the paintings is believed to date back more than 4000 years. The hills are reached by air or road but there are no camping facilities or water supplies so visitors should allow for water, food and fuel needs. The Caprivi strip is currently suffering from security problems, so visitors should take advice before travelling in this area. The Delta MAUN: On the southern edge of the Okavango Delta, nearly 950km northwest of Gaborone, Maun is the main jumping off point for most tourists visiting Botswana. It is a sprawling, scruffy little town, founded in 1915 as the administrative centre for the Batawana people. It has an international airport and a number of reasonable hotels, including Riley’s Hotel, Sedia Hotel and Maun Lodge while lodges include Crocodile Camp, Audi Camp and Island Safari Lodge. Okavango River Lodge is a campsite. Most hotels have a swimming pool as well as bar and restaurant. This is also the best place to book safaris, with many tour operators’ offices, a National Park office and the only banks for several hundred miles. There is an 8 sq km game reserve with several pleasant walking trails along the Thamalakane River near Riley’s Hotel. OKAVANGO DELTA: Undoubtedly the most striking region in the north of the country, situated in the Kgalagadi (or Kalahari) Desert and easily accessible from Maun. It is the greatest inland delta system in the world. The region is extremely beautiful, covering an area of about 15,000 sq km (5600 sq miles) and composed of vast grass flats, low tree-covered ridges and a widespread network of narrow waterways opening into lagoons. The thick reeds and grasses which thrive in these waters make much of the delta section impenetrable except by dug-out canoe (mokoro), which is the local people’s traditional form of transport. The waters are clear, and crocodiles, hippos and hundreds of fabulous birds can be seen, as well as elephants, zebras and giraffes. The few people who live here are mainly fishermen, in the west. The only part of the park that is officially protected is the Moremi National Park in the east (see below). Most of the land in the delta is carved up into giant private concessions, scattered by luxury lodges and camps, including Mombo, Xigera, Kwetsani, Xudum, Rann’s, Gubanare, Chiefs Camp, Khwai River Lodge, Eagle Island Camp, Xaxanaxa, Shinde, Camp Okavango, Camp Moremi, Xugana, Tsaro, Nxabega and Sandibe. Bizarrely, with the channels and lagoons shifting every season, these lodges, as the only permanent landmarks, have become an integral part of mapping and navigating in the Delta. The Delta has three main areas – the Panhandle, a 9 mile (15km) wide fault in the northwest, where the fishing is superb but the game-viewing less spectacular; the central permanent swamp, with its maze of pans and watermeadows; and the arid seasonal swamps to the south and east. Although the Delta is home to about 36 species of large mammals, 480 species of birds, 80 species of fish and a wealth of flora, it is not the best place in Africa to find big game – there is plenty there, but it is often hard to see. The Delta has its own micro-climate with three main seasons. It is warm to hot and dry in August to November, which is when the game-viewing is at its best, but the water is too low for many mokoro trips. December to March is hot and wet, the game vanishes into the undergrowth, but the bird and plant life is at its best. Many lodges close. April to August is cooler and dry, but with flood waters from the Angolan Highlands still fuelling the river channels. MOREMI GAME RESERVE: This beautiful park covers 1812 sq km (700 sq miles) in the northeast corner of the Okavango Delta. It comprises permanently swamped areas, seasonally swamped areas and dry land. It not only offers water activities such as boat trips but also top game-viewing and incredible scenery, with giant bullrushes fringing hidden lagoons shining blue between the solid trunks of the baobabs, tottering termite mounds and the cracked red mud plains. Small boats travel around the delta, visiting lagoons like Xaxanaxa, Gcobega and Gcodikwe with their abundance of birdlife. Elephant, hippo, buffalo, lion and most other game can be viewed in abundance. Fishing, walking and night drives are possible outside the park boundaries. South of here, the Gcwihaba Caverns, about 240km (150 miles) from Tsau, contain beautiful stalactites. The name means ‘Hyena’s Hole’ in the Quing language of the Bushmen. The Centre and South CENTRAL KALAHARI GAME RESERVE: This remote and virtually unexplored reserve was set up as a refuge both for animals and the country’s few remaining San (Bushmen) people. The terrain is very varied, with open plains, salt pans, sand dunes and mopane scrub in the north (which also has the best game-viewing), bushveld in the centre and woodland in the south. There are five designated but undeveloped campgrounds. Self-drivers with four-wheel-drive vehicles can go year-round with a permit. The Deception Valley area is used by several upmarket mobile safari operators. KHUTSE GAME RESERVE: This 2500 sq km (965 square mile) expanse of dry savannah land in the centre of the Kalahari incorporates a series of shallow pans, which, when filled with water, attract hundreds of bird species as well as an abundance of springbok and ostrich, giraffe, gemsbok, lion, leopard and the rare brown hyena, amongst others. It joins the southern boundary of the Central Kalahari National Park, about 240km (150 miles) northwest of Gaborone. Camping facilities are basic, and water, food and fuel should be brought. Many of the campsites are on the edge of the pan, which enables one to game-watch from the comfort of a camp chair. There are still a few small bands of Basarwa (San) living in this region, one of the last Stone Age races on earth, some of whom guide visitors around the reserve and teach them about edible and moisture-bearing plants and how many of the animals survive despite the lack of water. KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER NATIONAL PARK: This remote park straddles the border with South Africa in the southwest of the country, the first of a number of ‘peace parks’ planned to cross national boundaries and re-open ancient animal migration routes. The park has deep fossil river beds and high sand dunes, and the area is also known for its salt pans which reflect amazing colour changes during the day. Many herds of gemsbok and springbok (as well as other species of antelope), cheetah and famous black-maned Kalahari lion can be seen here and brown hyenas and jackals occur in abundance. The best time to visit is from March to May. It can be reached by a paved road from Gaborone to Tsabong, after which a four-wheel-drive vehicle is necessary. The main entrance, easiest access point and accommodation are all on the South African side of the border in what was the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park. At present there is no accommodation on the Botswanan side and you will need to take a tent and all supplies, including water and fuel. Sport & Activities Wildlife: Botswana’s magnificent wildlife can be observed in the national parks; for details of these, see Resorts & Excursions. Visits can be arranged independently or with tour operators. Four-wheel-drive vehicles tend to be expensive to hire, and budget travellers are not encouraged. Botswana is particularly good for horseback safaris and it is also possible to go on elephant-back safaris. Entry permits are required for all reserves. Visits can be booked up to 12 months in advance through Embassies and High Commissions or through the Parks and National Reserves Office in Gaborone (tel: 661 265; fax: 661 264 or 660 053). The best time of year to visit the parks is between April and October: the game is more difficult to see in the rainy months when the grass is high and there is plenty of water around, so the game does not have to rely on the waterholes and moves off into remote areas. In the dry winter season however, the animals congregate around water sources. For further details contact the Department of Tourism (see Contact Addresses section). Watersports: Fishing trips, water-skiing, motorboat and canoe hire are available to varying degrees. Near to Gaborone is a dam with a yacht club offering sailing, water-skiing and fishing; use of facilities is available to visitors at the invitation of a club member. Social Profile Food & Drink: Restaurants and bars can be found in main towns, often within hotels. Most lodges and safari camps also have restaurants and licensed bars, although food is generally basic outside major hotels and restaurants. The standard of food in lodges and camps is generally very good. There is local beer and in general no restrictions on alcohol. Nightlife: Most people get up early in the morning, and nightlife is not very extensive. However, there are some bars and restaurants in Gaborone. The city also has a cinema. Maun has around five restaurants and a small cinema. Shopping: Woodcarvings, handcrafted jewellery, woven goods and attractive basketry are recommended. Shopping hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat 0830-1300. Special Events: Annual events on Botswana’s calendar include: Apr Botswana Defence Force Day. May Industrial Trade and Commercial Exhibition. Jul 16 President’s Day (celebrated with traditional dancing, musical events, including performances by the Defence Force Band, and karate shows). Aug International Trade Fair. Sep 30 Botswana Day (marked by colourful parades). Oct Food and Drink Exhibition. Social Conventions: As most people in Botswana follow their traditional pattern of life, visitors should be sensitive to customs which will inevitably be unfamiliar to them. Outside urban areas, people may well not be used to visitors. Casual clothing is acceptable and in urban centres, normal courtesies should be observed. Photography: Airports, official residences and defence establishments should not be photographed. Permission should be obtained to photograph local people. Tipping: A discretionary ten per cent in urban centres. It is customary to tip the game guide and lodge staff while on safari. Business Profile Economy: As a key foreign exchange earner, livestock farming is the most important part of Botswana’s agricultural sector. In addition, there is substantial subsistence agriculture, cultivating maize, sorghum and millet. The country’s other main export industry is mining, extracting diamonds (of which Botswana is the world’s largest producer by value), nickel, gold, cobalt, copper, salt and coal (the principal source of energy) and soda ash. The small manufacturing sector is largely devoted to the production of food products and textiles. Botswana is closely connected to South Africa economically and is a member of the Southern African Customs Union (SACU) – along with Lesotho and Swaziland – and of the Southern African Development Conference. The country’s imports come from within SACU, other African countries (notably Zimbabwe) and Korea. Europe is the key export market. Although prudent management and successful development of new mineral resources have afforded Botswana healthy economic growth during the 1990s, the vulnerability of the agricultural sector to bad weather and commodity price fluctuations has led the government to seek to develop a service sector, with tourism and financial services as the best prospects. Business: Lightweight or tropical suits should be worn. Office hours: 0800-1700 April-October; 0730-1630 October-April. Government office hours: 0730-1630 all year round. Commercial Information: The following organisations can also offer advice: Botswana Conference and Exhibition Centre, Private Bag B03, Gaborone (tel: 375 555; fax: 304 263; e-mail: freda@bdc.bw); or Botswana National Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Private Bag 00290, Gaborone (tel: 359 292; fax: 372 462). Climate Mainly temperate climate. Summer is between October and April and is very hot combined with the rainy season. Dry and cooler weather exists between May and September with an average temperature of 25ºC (77º). Early mornings and evenings may be cold and frosty in winter. Annual rainfall decreases westwards and southwards. History and Government History: Between the seventh and 13th centuries, parts of Botswana were populated by thriving agricultural communities. In the 14th century, these communities came under the control of powerful Tswana dynasties originating in the region to the east that is now South Africa’s Transvaal. A further series of migrations followed the break-up of the main Tswana kingdoms, the Hurutshe and the Kwena, from the late 17th century; these migrants were firmly established in the southern part of Botswana by the 18th century and established a powerful military state controlling hunting, cattle-breeding and copper mining. The early 19th century brought another period of upheaval as peoples from the north, dislocated by slavery and the collapse of their local economies, moved to new territory. The Kololo were followed by the Ndebele. They were quickly succeeded by British colonialists and Boer settlers. The local rulers, notably the Tswana King Sechele, who ruled between 1829 and 1892, allied themselves with the British against the Boers. In a form of sub-contracted or privatised colonialism characteristic of the British Empire, Botswana was eventually brought under full British colonial control in 1890 by the British South Africa Company, who supervised the territory and which became known as Bechuanaland Protectorate. The British intended to hand the territory over to Rhodesia but, for a variety of reasons, were unable to do so; they were not prepared to cede it to South Africa. Thus, Botswana remained a British colony until independence in 1966 and Seretse Khama became the country’s first President, a position he retained until his death in 1980. The party which he had led, the Botswana Democratic Party (BDP), has dominated the country’s politics since independence, having won all six sets of national elections held since then. The latest of these was held in October 1999, and was the first electoral test for Festus Mogae, who had taken over as President after his predecessor, Quett Masire stood down in March 1998, in the middle of his third consecutive term in government. The main opposition party, the Botswana National Front (BNF), has made substantial progress against the BDP at local level – especially in urban areas – but the BDF’s overwhelming support in rural areas ensures its continuing rule. The government’s main domestic priority is to tackle the HIV/AIDS pandemic. Abroad, Botswana has tended generally to tread softly with respect to its large southern neighbour, South Africa, not least because of its considerable economic dependence. However Botswana is benefiting both politically and economically since the advent of democratic government in Pretoria. Relations with its other neighbours are normally cordial; Gaborone is the permanent home of the Southern African Development Conference which promotes economic development in the region. The government has expressed deep concern over recent political developments in Zimbabwe but can do little to influence the situation. Government: Executive power is held by the President, who is elected by the legislature, the National Assembly (40 out of the 44 members of which are elected by universal adult suffrage). The President appoints a Cabinet and receives advice from the House of Chiefs. Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.