Cuba Overview ‘Revolutionary island of rum and cigars’ Cuba is an island that assaults the senses. Surprisingly for one of the last remaining communist countries, the visitor is greeted with strains of exotic rhythms – the salsa or rhumba – emanating from every corner. An aquamarine sea laps the white, palm-fringed beaches of Varadero and offshore Cayos Largo and Coco. Here you can try your hand at blue marlin or barracuda fishing, just as Hemingway depicted in his novel The Old Man and the Sea, or dive to the coral reef and search for shipwrecks. The little visited Zapata Peninsula or the Bahia de Naranjo Nature Park offer the chance to swim with the dolphins. Inland, only the roar of 1950s US cars disturbs deserted roads. The tobacco-growing area of Vinales with its intriguing limestone mogotes (outcrops), contrasts dramatically with the rugged tree-covered mountains of the Sierra Maestra. Cuba’s rich history as a Spanish colony is evident in the wealth of colonial architecture in major towns such as Havana and Santiago de Cuba. A tourism revolution is transforming this once isolated country with an ever-increasing range of flights and hotels opening up previously inaccessible corners. Once faded and crumbling houses with ornate wrought iron balconies, and central courtyards are now being lovingly restored, while weathered campesinos sucking on titanic cigars watch contentedly as visitors discover this intoxicating island. Anita Sach General Information Area: 110,860 sq km (42,803 sq miles). Population: 11,160,200 (official estimate 1999). Population Density: 100.7 per sq km. Capital: Havana. Population: 2,189,716 (1999). GEOGRAPHY: Cuba is the largest Caribbean island, about the size of England, and the most westerly of the Greater Antilles group, lying 145km (90 miles) south of Florida. A quarter of the country is fairly mountainous. West of Havana is the narrow Sierra de los Organos, rising to 750m (2461ft) and containing the Guaniguanicos hills in the west. South of the Sierra is a narrow strip of 2320 sq km (860 sq miles) where the finest Cuban tobacco is grown. The Trinidad Mountains, starting in the centre, rise to 1100m (3609ft) in the east. Encircling the port of Santiago are the rugged mountains of the Sierra Maestra. A quarter of the island is covered with mountain forests of pine and mahogany. Government: Socialist Republic. Gained independence from Spain in 1898. Head of State and Government: President Fidel Castro Ruz since 1959. Language: The official language is Spanish. Religion: Roman Catholic majority. Time: GMT - 5. Electricity: 110/120 volts AC, 60Hz. American-style flat two-pin plugs are generally used, except in certain large hotels where the European round two-pin plug is standard. Communications:   Telephone IDD to Havana only. Country code: 53. Outgoing international code: 119. Phonecards for both internal and external calls are readily available from shops and kiosks (tourists must pay in US dollars). Some calls must be made through the international operator, and may be subject to delays. Mobile telephone Phones from the UK cannot be used. Cellular handsets can be hired from Cubacel. Roaming agreements exist with Canada and some European and Latin American countries, although not with the USA or UK. For further details check online (website: www.cubacel.com). GSM 900 network by C_Com has limited coverage. Fax Services are widely available. Internet Available at hotels and some Internet cafes. ISPs are limited. The main providers include Cubaweb (website: www.cubaweb.cu). Telegram These may be sent from all post offices in Havana and from RCA offices in major hotels in large towns. Post Letters to Western Europe can take several weeks. It is advisable to use the airmail service. Press Papers are in Spanish, although the Communist Party daily newspaper, Granma, publishes a weekly edition, called Granma International, in English, German, Portuguese and French. There is also a fortnightly international newspaper, Prisma de Cuba y las Américas, published in Spanish and English. All media is government controlled. BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice): MHz 15.19 12.10 6.195 5.975 Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov): MHz 13.79 9.455 6.130 5.995 Passport/Visa   Passport Required? Visa Required? Return Ticket Required? British Yes 1 Yes Australian Yes 1 Yes Canadian Yes 1 Yes USA Yes 1 Yes OtherEU Yes 1 Yes Japanese Yes 1 Yes PASSPORTS: Passports valid for at least two months beyond the date of entry required by all nationals without diplomatic representation in Cuba. Note: Persons of Cuban origin who are nationals of other countries must travel with a Cuban passport if they left Cuba after 1970. VISAS: Required by all except: a) those nationals whose countries have signed visa exemption agreements with Cuba (contact the Consulate for further information); b) 1. holders of a Tourist Visa Card. Certain tour operators, travel agencies and airlines can issue a Tourist Visa Card valid for one single trip of 30 days, although the stay can be extended in Cuba. Stipulations are that the traveller pre-books and pre-pays hotel accommodation in Cuba through an officially recognised tour operator. The card must be bought in the country where the trip has been arranged. All passengers must hold tickets and other documentation required for their onward or return journey unless holding special annotation issued by a Cuban Consulate; c) transit passengers continuing their journey to a third country within 72 hours, provided they hold confirmed onward tickets and US$50 per day. Note: (a) All business travellers (except journalists, those attending a conference or those wishing to study) do need a visa regardless of nationality. (b) Neither visa exemptions nor Tourist Visa Card facilities are applicable to foreign passport holders born in Cuba, unless holding a document proving withdrawal of Cuban citizenship. Exit permits: Required by those whose stay in Cuba exceeds 90 days. Types of visa and cost: Tourist Visa Card: £15. Journalist: £47. Business: £47. Note: (a) With the exception of Tourist Visa Cards, all visas have an additional charge of £15 for expenses in connection with visa authorisation. (b) Journalist visas must be authorised by the Centro de Prensa Internacional del Ministro de Relaciones Exteriores de Cuba. Validity: Tourist Visa Cards must be used within six months of issue. Tourist Visa Cards and Tourist and Business visas are valid for 30 days from date of entry; extensions of a further 30 days are possible. Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section. Application forms for tourist visa cards can be obtained from certain tour operators and travel agents. Application requirements: Tourist Visa Card: (a) One completed application form. (b) Photocopy of valid passport. (c) Photocopy of return ticket or travel agent voucher for pre-paid package tour. (d) Fee (payable in cash, by postal order or cheque). Business visa: (a) Valid passport. (b) One completed application form. (c) Two passport-size photos. (d) Details of business contact in Cuba. (e) Letter of invitation from Cuban company, organisation or institution. (f) Fee (payable in cash, by postal order or cheque). Journalist visa: (a) Valid passport. (b) Two completed application forms. (c) Two passport-size photos. (d) A sponsor letter from employer and a written version of your journalistic project. (e) Fee (payable in cash, by postal order or cheque). Note: Once a Journalist visa has been issued, the individual must report to the Centro de Prensa Internacional for accreditation. They should take two photos and US$60. Working days required: Tourist Visa Card: one day (seven days for postal applications). Tourist visa: seven to ten days. Business visa: ten days (two weeks for postal applications). Journalist visa: up to one month. Temporary residence: Enquire at Embassy. Money Currency: Cuban Peso (peso) = 100 centavos. Notes are in denominations of peso100, 50, 20, 10, 5 and 3. Coins are in denominations of peso1, and 40, 20, 5, 2 and 1 centavos. The US dollar is also legal tender since 1993 and it is very difficult for visitors to use anything else. In some tourist and large, urban areas, the Euro is also accepted. Hard currency must be used in most transactions. Currency exchange: Money should be exchanged at official foreign exchange bureaux, banks or international air- and seaports, which issue receipts for transactions. ATMs are currently only available in Varadero and Havana, but cash can be obtained in banks with visa credit or debit cards. At official tourist shops, purchases are made only in US Dollars, it is therefore advisable not to change too much hard currency into pesos. Black marketeers may offer as much as 20 times the official rate for US Dollars, but tourists are advised to avoid them as severe penalties for black marketeering are imposed. There are also many scams as moneychangers on the street often give tourists old pesos instead of the new peso convertible (equal, in theory, to US$1 for a Cuban within Cuba). Credit & debit cards: Visa and MasterCard are increasingly accepted provided they are not issued by a US bank, but check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available. American Express and other cards issued by US banks are not accepted. Travellers cheques: US Dollar, Sterling and other major currencies are accepted, but US Dollar cheques issued by US banks are not acceptable (including overbranded cheques from other banks worldwide). The white exchange paper received upon encashment must be retained. Currency restrictions: The import and export of local currency is prohibited. The import of foreign currency is unlimited, subject to declaration of amounts exceeding US$5000 on arrival; export is allowed up to the amount imported and declared. Generally, a maximum of pesos10 may be reconverted to foreign currency for re-export at the end of the stay but it may only be reconverted on presentation of a correctly filled out official exchange record. Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Cuban Peso against Sterling and the US Dollar: Date May ’02 Aug ’02 Nov ’02 Feb ’03 £1.00= 30.60 31.94 33.21 33.44 $1.00= 21.00 21.00 21.00 21.00 Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1200 and 1330-1500, Sat 0830-1030. Hours may vary and banks may be open all day in larger cities. Duty Free The following goods may be taken into Cuba by persons aged 18 years and over without incurring customs duty: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 3 bottles of alcoholic beverages; gifts up to a value of US$50 (articles up to US$200 will be subject to customs duty payments); 10kg of medicines. Prohibited items: Natural fruits, beans or vegetables; meat and dairy products; weapons and ammunition; video cassettes and household appliances; all pornographic material and drugs. Public Holidays Jan 1 2003 Liberation Day. Jan 2 Victory of Armed Forces. May 1 Labour Day. May 20 Independence Day. Jul 25-27 Day of Rebeliousness. Oct 10 Anniversary of the beginning of the War of Independence in 1868. Jan 1 2004 Liberation Day. Jan 2 Victory of Armed Forces. May 1 Labour Day. May 20 Independence Day. Jul 25-27 Day of Rebeliousness. Oct 10 Anniversary of the beginning of the War of Independence in 1868. Health   Special Precautions Certificate Required Yellow Fever No No Cholera No No Typhoid and Polio 1 N/A Malaria No N/A 1: Typhoid may be a risk in remote rural areas. Food & drink: Mains water is chlorinated and, whilst relatively safe, may cause mild abdominal upsets. Bottled water is available and is advised for the first few weeks of stay. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Local meat, poultry, seafoods and fruit are generally considered safe to eat. Other risks: Hepatitis A has been reported in the northern Caribbean Islands. Human fascioliasis is endemic. Dengue fever may occur in the area as well as outbreaks of dengue haemorrhagic fever. Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix. Health care: Cuba’s medical services are good and some emergency treatment may be available to visitors at no cost. However, health insurance is necessary, as foreigners must pay most of their own health care costs. Travel - International AIR: Cuba’s national airline is Cubana (CU). Other airlines serving Cuba include Aeroflot, Air France, AOM French Airlines, Air Jamaica, Iberia, Mexicana and Spanair. Approximate flight times: From Havana to London is 10 hours, to Los Angeles is 9 hours and to New York is 5 hours. International airports: Havana (HAV) (José Martí International) is 18km (11 miles) south of the city. Bus and taxi services to the city are available. The journey is approximately one hour by bus and 30 minutes by taxi. Airport facilities include duty-free shops, bank, tourist information/hotel reservation and car hire. There are also international airports at Santiago de Cuba, Camagüey, Holguin, Cienfuegos, Ciego de Avila, Manzanillo, Cayo Largo and Varadero. Facilities at Havana and Santiago de Cuba have recently been upgraded. Departure tax: US$20 from Havana and Varadero, US$15 from all other airports. SEA: Due to the US blockade, there are no scheduled passenger ships and only some cruise ships call at Cuba (Riviera Holiday Cruises, Sunquest Vacations and West Indies Cruises). It is possible, however, to call in on a private yacht, although the authorities must be contacted prior to arrival. Travel - Internal AIR: Cubana operates scheduled services between most main towns but advance booking is essential as flights are limited. RAIL: The principal rail route is from Havana to Santiago de Cuba, with two daily trains. Some trains on this route have air conditioning and refreshments. There are also through trains from Havana to other towns. Previously, the rail network connected the vast majority of the country but has been badly affected by natural disasters and now only certain parts of the country are accessible by rail. ROAD: Sightseeing can be pre-arranged, although internal travel arrangements may be made through any of the several ground handlers. Traffic drives on the right. Bus: Most tours will include travel by air-conditioned buses. Cuba’s national bus service Astro (Asociaciones de Transportes por Omnibus) connects all the main towns and suburbs at least once or twice a day; fares are low and services are reliable, but the buses can be very crowded especially during the rush hour. Four seats are saved for tourists or foreign visitors on each bus. Increasingly popular, however, are the state-operated, air-conditioned Viazul ‘tourist buses’ (website: www.viazul.cu) which connect most major cities and tourist destinations daily. These top-range coaches have air conditioning, toilets and must be paid for in US dollars (larger offices should accept payment by credit/debit card). Taxi: Taxis and chauffeur-driven cars can work out to be as cheap as the bus or train. An influx of comfortable, modern cars makes this a viable form of transport. It is usual to order them through the hotel. All official taxis have meters but in private taxis fares should be pre-arranged. Car hire: There are several good and inexpensive car hire companies with representatives at most hotels, and due to Cuba’s well maintained road system, this is often regarded as one of the best forms of getting around the island. Bicycles can be hired. Documentation: Valid national driving licence required. Drivers must be aged 21 or over. URBAN: Buses, minibuses and plentiful shared taxis operate in Havana at low flat fares. Buses are frequent but often very crowded, and foreigners may have difficulty paying the fare in pesos. TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times (in hours and minutes) from Havana to other major towns in Cuba. Air Road Varadero 0.15 2.00 Trinidad 0.20 5.00 Santiago de Cuba 1.15 17.00 Playas del Este - 0.30 Pinar del Rio 0.15 2.00 Accommodation The range of accommodation available is expanding, although the budget traveller is still not largely catered for. The best hotels are in Havana or at Varadero Beach. Since many visitors to Cuba go as part of a package holiday the hotel will have been selected in advance. The hotels are clean, functional and adequate. Contact the Cuba Tourist Board for further information (see Contact Addresses section). CASAS PARTICULARES: Also known as private houses, are, as the name suggests, similar to Bed & Breakfast. In certain towns only (most notably not in Varadero) it is possible for Cubans to rent out rooms to visitors. The rooms normally have a private bathroom and the deal often includes breakfast. It may also be possible to have other meals there as well which are much more varied and plentiful than those offered in many of the state-operated restaurants. It can be a good, and cheaper, way to get more of a feel for the Cuban way of life and to get a glimpse of the ‘real Cuba’. Legal casas particulares are recognised by a blue triangle on a white background on the front door. Introduction Cuba has undergone a transformation since it first opened its doors to global tourism after almost three decades of isolation. Most noteworthy has been the rapid growth in private accommodation, the extensive network of casas particulares allowing the independent traveller the opportunity, not only to experience life more as it is lived by the average Cubano, but also to explore corners of the country that had previously been inaccessible or off-limits. Good news for the tourist is the growing choice of resorts and the number of new or refurbished hotels that are opening in towns across the country. While eco-tourism is still in its infancy and much of the island’s extraordinary natural beauty remains to be discovered, the government is already making strides in the right direction. Havana One of the largest and most vibrant cities in the Caribbean (population two million), Havana (La Habana) boasts an old town which features on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Much of the money made from tourism is currently being pumped back into restorative works in the city and its buildings. The surrounding 19th-century district of densely packed, crumbling houses and narrow streets has its own appeal as does the high-rise city centre (Vedado), developed during the 1940s and 1950s when US influence was strongest. The most famous of the hotels here is the Nacional, still patronised by Hollywood film stars. Dating from the same period is Miramar, the leafy embassy district reminiscent of Miami. The sea wall, known as the Malecón extends for 8km and is a popular meeting point for locals, especially after dusk. Havana’s best beaches, the Playas del Este, are about 20km from the centre. Havana is closely associated with the US writer, Ernest Hemmingway. One of his favourite haunts was the bar, La Bodeguita del Medio, only a stone’s throw from the city’s magnificent 18th-century cathedral. Overlooking the neighbouring Plaza de Armas is the Museo de la Ciudad and the recently opened Palacio del Segundo Cabo, former residence of the Captains General, which boasts wonderful rooftop views. The splendidly refurbished rooms of the Museo de Arte Colonial are also worth a visit. The Castello de la Real Fuerza is the oldest of Havana’s three forts. The Capitolio, modelled on the Capitol in Washington DC, was once home to the Cuban government and is sumptuously decorated. The huge Museo de la Revolución occupies the former presidential palace. Outside under a glass case is the Granma, the yacht which brought Castro and the leading rebels back to Cuba in 1956. Guided tours of the tobacco factory (Fábrica de Tobacos Pártagas) are also available. It is worth enjoying a relaxing drink on one of the Habana Vieja hotel rooftops to enjoy the views. Pinar del Río and the west Pinar del Río is arguably Cuba’s most beautiful province. The countryside is amazingly diverse, but the outstanding feature must be the mogotes (oddly rounded limestone mountains, covered in lush vegetation). The caves here, notably the Cueva del Indio is well worth a visit, with stalactites and stalagmites and an underground river. The town of Pinar del Río should be explored in its own right, and is home to several cigar factories that are open to the public. The tobacco plantations at Vuelta Abajo, a short distance southwest of Pinar del Río can also be visited during the growing season from December to April. The road from Viñales to the coast makes a scenic drive. Isla de la Juventud (Isle of Youth) is the largest of the 350 islands making up the Canarreos archipelago, administered from the capital, Nueva Gerona. Once known as ‘Parrot Island’, the Isle of Youth was a hideout for pirates including the notorious Englishman, Captain Henry Morgan. It is also supposed to have inspired Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island. In the same archipelago is Cayo Largo, another of Cuba’s well-known tourist resorts, considered to have some of the best beaches in the Caribbean. Varadero, a sheltered peninsula on Cuba’s north coast, is the island’s best known beach resort. Apart from the 20km (12.5 miles) of fine white sand, there are excellent opportunities for scuba diving. The amenities are first rate. Guama in the south of Matanzas Province, is a reconstruction of an Amero-Indian village, a government showpiece built on a series of islands linked by wooden bridges. There are boat trips along the Treasure Lake (Laguna del Tesoro), while most visitors will also enjoy the crocodile nursery. This part of Mantanzas is also famous for bird life and the attractive beaches of Playa Girón and Playa Larga, location for the disastrous Bay of Pigs invasion in 1961. Trinidad and the centre Cienfuegos is a prosperous modern city built around a fine harbour at the foot of the Escambray Mountains. Its 19th-century core was built with the help of French settlers from Louisiana, which explains why many of the town’s finest buildings are reminiscent of New Orleans. The main sights around Parque José Martí include the cathedral and the late-19th-century Teatro Tomás Terry, worth exploring for its florid interior. Closer to the harbour are the castle, Castillo de Jagua and the Palacio de Valle. Built in an appealing mixture of architectural styles with Moorish influences to the fore, it is now a restaurant with a roof-top terrace that affords splendid views of the bay and surrounding countryside. Trinidad retains the atmosphere of an old colonial town, despite the influx of tourists. Founded in the year 1514, it was one of Cuba’s seven original towns, and the presence of many beautiful buildings dating from the 17th to 19th centuries accounts for its place on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Apart from the cobbled streets and the houses painted in pastel colours, the main attractions include the elegant Parque Martí and several museums in the colonial mansions, the best of which, the Museo Romántico, has been beautifully refurbished in period style. The Taller Alfarero, a ceramics workshop where traditional techniques are still used, is also worth visiting. Many tourists stay not in Trinidad itself but at the nearby beach resort of Playa Ancón. Mention should also be made of the Torre de Manaca Iznaga (50m/165ft), a lookout tower offering great views of the Valley of the Sugar Mills (Valle de los Ingenios) and the Escambray Mountains. Santa Clara is a bustling city in the heart of an important agricultural region. Santa Clara is closely associated with the revolutionary hero Ernesto ‘Ché’ Guevara who captured the town for the Cuban revolution days before the resignation of the dictator, General Batista. Understandably, the government promotes this lively town; it is also investing in the area’s other potential attractions, which include Remedios and the beaches around Cayo Las Brujas. Sancti Spíritus has a laid-back feel and a good range of state and private accommodation. The bridge over the Yayabo River is made of stone – the oldest one on the island. Strolling through the sleepy streets while admiring the colonial architecture is the main attraction. The best example of the style is the Colonial Art Museum. Santiago de Cuba and the east Camagüey is one of the more heavily promoted towns of the island. Its attractions include a number of churches and museums and a thriving (and very photogenic) peso market. Camagüey lies in the centre of a fertile plain, exploited for sugar. The unspoilt Camagüey archipelago is also known as Jardines del Rey. Within the natural park are some 20km of landscaped white-sand beaches, the best known of which are Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo, the latter a favourite haunt of Ernest Hemmingway who came to fish here. Bayamo was the birthplace of the 19th-century revolutionary, Manuel de Cépedes, who launched Cuba’s struggle for independence here in 1868-9. Modern Bayamo is a delightful little town with one of the few pedestrianised centres on the island. From here it is possible to explore the nature trails of the Parque Nacional del Granma around the fishing hamlet of Cabo Cruz. Holguín is familiar to most tourists for its airstrip, but the old colonial town is worth a couple of hours at least for its attractive squares and streets. Also falling within the province are the beach resorts of Guarda la Váca and Esmeralda, both of which are well served with amenities. Santiago de Cuba, 780km (485 miles) from Havana, was the island’s first capital. It owed this distinction to a superb deepwater harbour, the majestic Sierra Maestra Mountains forming a dramatic backdrop. Despite losing its primacy early in the day, Santiago was never eclipsed by Havana thanks to the French plantation owners and their slaves who arrived in the 18th century, turning the region over to coffee and sugar production. Santiago consequently acquired a cosmopolitan flavour that accounts for its cultural importance especially in music – the Son originated here. In July the town hosts one of the most spectacular carnivals in the country which has even spawned its own museum. Highlights of Santiago’s old quarter (around the square, Parque Céspedes) are the cathedral, the Casa de Diego Velázquez, one of Cuba’s oldest colonial mansions, and the Museo Emilio Bacardí, which contains the rum magnate’s collection of antiques and fine art. Adjacent to the square is the Casa Granda Hotel, located adjacent to the square in the area, a favourite haunt of the British author Graham Greene. The Moncada Barracks, where Fidel Castro and his revolutionary insurgents launched an abortive uprising in 1953, is the most visited sight outside the town centre. After soaking up Santiago’s heady atmosphere, visitors should venture into the surrounding countryside. Excursions on offer include the Castillo del Morro, once an important fortress and now a museum of piracy with superb vistas of the surrounding countryside. The shrine to the Virgin of Cobre is housed in a magnificent basilica. This important centre of pilgrimage was the focus of Pope John Paul II’s visit to Cuba in 1998. Baracoa lies between two bays on Cuba’s eastern tip, and is one of the island’s most beautiful towns. Tradition has it that Christopher Columbus planted a wooden cross here after coming ashore in 1492. It was later transferred to the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption where it is still on view. Until the 1960s, when a road connecting it to the mainland was constructed, Cuba’s oldest European settlement was accessible only by boat. The town’s role as a former Spanish outpost is evidenced by its three forts, the Fuerta Matachín (now housing the municipal museum), the Castillo de Seboruco (now a hotel), and the Fuerte de la Punta (which now also houses a restaurant). Sport & Activities All sporting events are free for Cubans. The country participates in many sports in the Olympic Games. Baseball is the national sport; soccer and a variety of ball games are also played. There are many stadia, and sport both playing and watching, is one of the national pastimes. Watersports: Diving can be practised at major resorts and at some lesser-known locations. The 21-km/13-mile long Varadero Beach, one of Cuba’s best developed resorts, offers good diving and snorkelling. For those not wanting to venture underwater, boat tours to the reef are available. Cayo Largo, an island to the south of Cuba, also has a beautiful beach, with facilities for snorkelling, diving, windsurfing and fishing. Lesser-known resorts offering good facilities include Cayo Coco, an island off the northern coast, Cayo Guillermo, accessible along a causeway from Cayo Coco and Guardalvaca, to the north of Holguín. The Isla de la Juventud, a large island to the south of Cuba, offers excellent reef diving. Wildlife including turtles and iguanas can be observed on the coral keys to the east. Expeditions leave from hotels on the west side of the island. There is also very good diving from resorts in the Pinar del Río province in the northwest of the island, an area characterised by clear water and long white-sand beaches. Beautiful corals can be seen off the coast. Some of the best fishing is to be had off the more remote beaches, which can be difficult to get to without one’s own transport. Local dive operators offer organised dives, equipment hire and tuition. Trekking and horseriding: Although possible in some of the more remote areas of the island, permits may be required. Check with the authorities before departure. There are few marked trails, so it is best to hire a local guide. There are three main mountain ranges: in the west, centre and east of the island. Beautiful and unspoilt scenery can be found all over Cuba. Pico Turquino, Cuba’s highest mountain, is in the Sierra Maestra range which offers good hikes and treks. The Sierra de Cubitas range near Camaguëy is characterised by river gorges and cliffs, while the Escambray Mountains near Trinidad contain dense rainforest. Guama, on the Zapata peninsula is an extensive marshy area, which hosts many interesting varieties of birds, including parrots. The Cordillera de Guaniguanico in the north of the island features spectacular scenery with rivers and limestone mountains and caves. Horseriding is available at special tourist ranches at Baconao and Trinidad. Social Profile Food & Drink: Restaurants (both table- and self-service) are generally inexpensive. Cuisine is continental or Cuban with a strong emphasis on seafood. Cuban food uses more garlic and less chilli than elsewhere in the Caribbean. Favourite dishes are omelettes, often stuffed with meat and/or cheese; maize fritters; a thick soup made of chicken or black beans; roast suckling pig; chicken and rice; plantains baked or fried; and local Cuban ice cream. Tour food served in hotels is not always exciting but it is adequate and will include chicken, fish, ham, cheese, fresh papaya, melon, pineapple, mangoes, bananas, fresh vegetables and green salads. Desserts are sweet and include pastries, flans, caramel custard, guava paste and cheese. Bars generally have waiter and counter service. Cuban coffee is very strong, but weaker, British-style coffee is available. Cuban beer is tasty but weak. Spirits are reasonably priced; rum is good and plentiful and used in excellent cocktails such as daiquiris and mojitos (pronounced ‘moh-hee-tos’). Nightlife: Nightlife is concentrated in Havana, Varadero Beach and in the major tourist resorts. Cuba is renowned for its salsa dancing and visitors can attend dance classes or swing their hips with the locals at the Tropicana and Varadero Mumbo nightclubs. Much entertainment may be planned by the visitor’s guide or tour operator, and it is common to attend in organised groups. Even medium-sized bars usually have a house band playing Cuban classics. There is a choice of floor show entertainments, nightclubs and theatres. The Tropicana nightclub stages spectacular open-air shows. Theatre, opera and ballet are staged all year round in Havana and seats are very cheap. Cinemas show films in Spanish, but some have subtitles. Shopping: Special purchases include cigars, rum, coffee and local handicrafts. The main hotels have a few luxury shops. There are duty-free shops at the airport and in the centre of Havana. Shopping hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1800, Sun 0900-1200. Special Events: The following is a selection of the major special events and festivals taking place in Cuba in 2003. All events take place in Havana unless otherwise stated. For further details contact the Office of the Cuban Convention Bureau and the Cuban Association of Organizers of Events, Incentives and Related Activities (ACOE), Calle M et/ 17 y 19, Edificio Fosca Vedado, Ciudad Habana (tel: (7) 552 923; fax (7) 334 261; e-mail: buroconv@buroconv.mit.cma.net; website: www.buroconv.cubaweb.cu). Jan 2003 Winter Cuba Ballet. Jan-Jul FolkCuba (traditional music and dance). Jan-Aug Cubadanza. Feb Fifth Havana Cigar Festival (trade fair). Apr Percuba 2003 (14th International Percussion Festival). Jun Expocaribe 2003. Jul Fiesta del Fuego (Caribbean Festival). Aug Summer Cuba Ballet. Oct International Ballet Festival; Festival of Ibero-American Culture. Nov International Havana Exhibition; International Choir Festival. Dec International Festival of New Latin American Cinema. Social Conventions: Handshaking is the normal form of greeting. Cubans generally address each other as compañero, but visitors should use señor or señora. Some Cubans have two surnames after their Christian name and the first surname is the correct one to use. Normal courtesies should be observed when visiting someone’s home and a small gift may be given if invited for a meal. Formal wear is not often needed and hats are rarely worn. Men should not wear shorts except on or near the beach. Women wear light cotton dresses or trousers during the day and cocktail dresses for formal evenings. Tipping: Moderate tipping is expected. However, as more foreigners pass through Cuba, many people who would not normally merit them have begun to demand tips. Some discretion may be required. Business Profile Economy: The agricultural component of Cuba’s economy is dominated by sugar, of which it is one of the world’s largest exporters. However, with the prevailing low price for the commodity throughout the 1980s and early 1990s, the Government has attempted to diversify into other crops. Tobacco and citrus fruits are of increasing importance. Cuban industry is largely devoted to the processing of agricultural products but also produces cement, fertilisers, textiles, prefabricated buildings, agricultural machinery and domestic consumer goods. Tourism, the only significant service industry, has proved to be a growth industry and a vital source of foreign exchange; the Government has invested heavily in developing infrastructure for that purpose. However the US economic blockade against the island has long overshadowed the Cuban economy. Unable to trade fully effectively (even though bilateral US-Cuban trade is estimated at US$300 million annually, mostly in telecommunications traffic and other instruments, such as credit cards) and suffering from the collapse of the Soviet Union, Cuba has experienced persistent economic difficulties in recent years. Despite that, domestic reforms of the previously rigid state-controlled structure – opening up to foreign investment and creating export-processing zones – have allowed erratic growth (currently about five per cent annually) to take place. A substantial informal dollar economy grew up during the 1990s, which also served to improve living conditions. In the longer term, the economy needs a lifting of sanctions which, in turn, depends on some form of political settlement with the USA. The George W Bush administration has made it clear, however, that this will depend on comprehensive political and economic reform. Argentina, Canada, China and Spain are Cuba’s main trading partners. Business: Courtesy is expected and hospitality should not be lavish, being offered to groups rather than individuals. Best months for business visits are November to April. Office hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1230 and 1330-1630, some offices also open on alternate Saturdays from 0800-1700. Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Cámara de Comercio de la República de Cuba, Calle 21, No 661/701, esq. Calle A, Apartado 4237, Vedado, Havana (tel: (7) 551 321/2 or 551 324 or 551 452 or 551 746; fax: (7) 333 042; e-mail: camara@ceniai.inf.cu; website: www.camaracuba.cubaweb.cu). Conferences/Conventions: Modern facilities are available at Havana International Conference Center, Pabexpo and ExpoCuba. Further information can be obtained from Cubanacan UK Ltd, Unit 49, Skylines, Limeharbour, London E14 9TS, UK (tel: (020) 7537 7909; fax: (020) 7537 7747; e-mail: director@cubanacan.co.uk; website: www.cubanacan.cu) or Buró de Convenciones de Cuba, COCAL, Edificio Focsa, Calle M entre la 17 y 19, Vedado, La Habana (tel: (7) 552 923 or 662 629; fax: (7) 334 261; e-mail: buroconi@buroconv.mit.tur.cu; website: www.buroconv.cubaweb.cu). Climate Hot, sub-tropical climate all year. Most rain falls between May and October and hurricanes can occur in autumn (August to November). Humidity varies between 75 per cent and 95 per cent. Cooler months are January to April when the least rain falls. Required clothing: Lightweight cottons and linens most of the year; the high humidity makes it unwise to wear synthetics close to the skin. Light waterproofs are advisable all year round. History and Government History: Three main native groups inhabited Cuba when Columbus reached it in 1492. The Ciboney and Guanahatabey populated the western part of the island, while the Taino people lived in the central and eastern area, mainly on the coast. Slavery and the establishment of large plantations began almost immediately after European colonisation. The indigenous population was quickly decimated by disease, fighting and maltreatment. Cuba was also used as a base for Spanish treasure ships and it was from here that the Spanish organised trips to the Americas. Throughout the 17th century, life in Cuba was rendered difficult for the Spanish by persistent epidemics, hurricanes and the attentions of rival colonial powers. The next century proved more successful, at least in economic terms, as a huge increase in the population took place, as hundreds of thousands of slaves were imported from Africa. Spanish refusal to deal with the growing independence movement in the late 19th century led to two wars of independence. The first, between 1868 and 1878, ended in stalemate; the second, in which the rebels were inspired by the poet and revolutionary, José Martí, began in 1895 and ended when the USA was drawn into the war in 1898. Although nominally independent thereafter, Cuba was initially occupied for two years by US forces. After their withdrawal in 1901, the USA maintained effective political and economic control of the island, while Cuba was governed by a series of corrupt dictators such as Fulgencio Batista and Carlos Pro Socarrás. In 1959, after a classic guerrilla campaign, Fidel Castro overturned the hugely corrupt Batista Government and established a socialist state. All US businesses were expropriated in 1960 and diplomatic relations between the two countries were broken by the USA. In 1961, the US Central Intelligence Agency organised a corps of anti-Castro rebels to invade the island and galvanise an uprising to overthrow the Castro regime. This ‘Bay of Pigs’ invasion was a complete fiasco; all the invaders were captured or killed and the (supposedly covert) US involvement was quickly revealed. Later that year, Castro declared Cuba a Marxist-Leninist state and accelerated the development of close relations with the Soviet Union. The following year, Soviet missiles capable of hitting targets in the USA were installed on Cuba. President Kennedy ordered a naval blockade against the island. The confrontation escalated to the threshold of nuclear war, before Kennedy and Khrushchev reached a settlement. After the crisis, Cuba, for the most part, proved a loyal Soviet ally and was the largest recipient of Soviet foreign aid. The other main plank of Cuba’s foreign policy was military assistance to weaker Third World nations. Since the demise of the Soviet Union and the resulting economic retrenchment at home, Cuba’s foreign adventures have ended, as it concentrates on its domestic situation and relations with the rest of Latin America. There were notable improvements in relations with some of its Caribbean neighbours and with Venezuela, Colombia, Peru and Argentina. Cuba also enjoys good relations with Canada and with several European countries. All of these bilateral contacts are, however, highly dependent on the attitude of the US government – there are few, if any, governments prepared to antagonise Washington for the sake of better relations with Havana. At home, Cuba has enjoyed an impressive reputation for the quality of its health care and social services, although not for its overall quality of life or tolerance of opposition. The US economic blockade has undoubtedly hindered the development of the Cuban economy; the strength of the ‘Cuba lobby’ in the USA limits the ability of any US administration to normalise relations. There were some signs of an improvement in late 2001, when President George W Bush authorised the sale of food and medicines to Cuba, following Hurricane Michelle. However, the following July, he vetoed a bill – already passed by the US Congress – easing travel restrictions to the island. Earlier in the year, the US administration’s ‘war against terror’ drew attention to the extraordinary anomaly of Guantanamo Bay. This heavily fortified naval base on Cuba’s eastern tip has been used as a makeshift prison for captives from the Taleban and the al-Qaeda organisation (see Afghanistan section). Originally leased to the US in 1901, the Castro government has accepted it as a sort of geopolitical wart; the Americans continue to pay the annual rental for the land and the Cubans have made no serious moves to dislodge it. As Castro now approaches 80, speculation is growing about his likely successor and whether the system, which he and the Communist Party have created, will survive his departure. Government: Under the terms of the 1976 constitution, all legislative power in the Republic of Cuba is vested in a 499-member National Assembly of People’s Power, which is elected every five years by municipal deputies. A 31-member Council of State is elected by the Assembly from the Assembly. The Council’s President is both Head of State and Head of Government. Executive and administrative power is vested in a Council of Ministers, appointed by the Assembly, on the Head of State’s recommendation. The constitution also guarantees that the Communist Party (PCC) should remain not only the sole legal party in Cuba but also ‘the leading force of society and state.’ New laws, passed during 2001 and 2002, have furthered enshrined the current political and economic system. Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.