Algeria Overview Travel Warning Unless on essential business we advise against all travel to Algeria and suggest you visit one of the following government websites for the latest risk assessment: British Foreign and Commonwealth Office Website: www.fco.gov.uk/travel/countryadvice.asp Tel: +44 (0)20 7238 4503/4 US Department of State Website: http://travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade Website: http://voyage.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/destinations/menu General Information Area: 2,381,741 sq km (919,595 sq miles). Population: 32,277,942 (2002). Population Density: 13.6 per sq km. Capital: Algiers (El Djezaïr). Population: 1,519,570 (1998). GEOGRAPHY: Algeria is situated along the North African coast, bordered to the east by Tunisia and Libya, to the southeast by Niger, to the southwest by Mali, and to the west by Mauritania and Morocco. It is Africa’s second-largest country, with 1200km (750 miles) of coastline. Along the coastal strip are the main towns, fertile land, beach resorts and 90 per cent of the population. Further south lies the area of the Hauts Plateaux, mountains of up to 2000m (6600ft) covered in cedar, pine and cypress forests with broad arable plains dividing the plateaux. The remaining 85 per cent of the country is the Sahara Desert in its various forms, sustaining only 500,000 people, many of whom are nomadic tribes with goat and camel herds. The oil and minerals boom has created new industrial centres like Hassi Messaoud, which have grown up within previously barely inhabited regions of the northern Sahara. The plains of gravel and sand in the deep south are interrupted by two mountain ranges: the dramatic Hoggar massif, rising to almost 3000m (9800ft), and the Tassili N’Ajjer or ‘Plateau of Chasms’. Both have long been important centres of Tuareg culture. Government: Republic. Gained independence from France in 1962. Head of State: President Abdelaziz Bouteflika since 1999. Head of Government: Prime Minister Ali Benflis since 2000. Language: The official language is Arabic, but French is still used for most official and business transactions. Berber (Amazigh) is spoken in the northern mountainous regions of the Kabylias and the Aures and also in the south. In general, English is spoken only in major business or tourist centres. Religion: Ninety-nine per cent of the population adhere to Islam. Time: GMT + 1. Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz. The European two-pin plug is standard. Communications:   Telephone IDD is available. Country code: 213. Outgoing international code: 00. There are public telephones in all post offices, leading hotels and on many main streets. Mobile telephone GSM 900 network is operated by AMN. Coverage is limited to main towns. There are some roaming agreements. Operators include Orascom Telecom Algerie Spa (Djezzy) (website: www.atalgerie.com). Fax Faxes may be sent from some more modern hotels. Internet The main ISP is Cerist (www.cerist.dz). There are three Internet cafes: in Algiers, Oran and Constantine. Telegram These can be sent from any post office from 0800-1900. The main post office in Algiers has a 24-hour service. Post Mail posted in any of the main cities along the coast takes three to four days to reach Europe; posted elsewhere, it could take much longer. A letter delivery service operates Saturday to Thursday. Parcels sent by surface mail may take up to two months to reach Algeria. All parcels sent by air or surface mail are subject to long delays in customs. Post office hours: Generally Sat-Wed 0800-1700; Thurs 0800-1200; but the main post office in Algiers (5 boulevard Mohamed Khémisti) is open around the clock. Press Daily newspapers are printed in Arabic or French. The main French-language dailies are Al Watan, Liberté, Le Matin, Le Soir d’Algérie, Al Moudjahid and Le Journal. Ach-Cha’ab and Al Massa are the leading Arabic-language dailies. Another daily, Horizons, has an English section. BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice): MHz 15.49 12.10 9.410 6.195 Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov): MHz 15.21 11.83 9.760 1.197 Passport/Visa   Passport Required? Visa Required? Return Ticket Required? British Yes Yes No Australian Yes Yes No Canadian Yes Yes No USA Yes Yes/1 No OtherEU Yes Yes/1 No Japanese Yes Yes No Restricted entry: (a) Entry and transit is refused to holders of Israeli passports. (b) Those with Israeli or Vietnamese stamps on their passports will have great difficulty entering Algeria. Nationals of Iran, Israel and Vietnam will automatically be refused entry. Note: It is no longer compulsory to import a specific amount of currency for each day of the intended stay. However, all foreign currency imported must be declared and receipts retained for inspection. PASSPORTS: Passport valid for at least six months required by all. VISAS: Required by all except the following: (a) nationals of Andorra, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, Libya, Malaysia, Mauritania, Slovenia, Syrian Arab Republic, Tunisia, Yemen and Yugoslavia (Serbia and Montenegro) for stays of up to three months; (b)1. transit passengers continuing their journey by the same or first connecting aircraft within 24 hours provided holding sufficient funds, onward and return documentation and not leaving the airport. However, nationals of the following countries do require a transit visa: Germany, Iran, Israel, Korea (Rep), Luxembourg, Malawi, The Netherlands, South Africa, USA, Vietnam and Taiwan. Note: Children under 15 years of age travelling on their parents’ passports do not need a visa, although a letter of authorisation is required from the parents or guardian. Types of visa and cost: Tourist, Business and Transit. The cost varies according to nationality. For British passport holders the costs are: Single-entry: £28; Multiple-entry: £35 (90 days). Contact the Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy) for details; see Contact Addresses section. Validity: Tourist: approximately 30 days. Transit: maximum 48 hours. Business: up to 90 days. Application to: Consulate (see Contact Addresses section). Application requirements: (a) Two completed application forms. (b) Two passport-size photos. (c) Passport valid for six months. (d) Letter of invitation from an Algerian national or a hotel booking for a Tourist visa. ((e) Letter from current UK employer. (f) Letter of invitation from the sponsoring company for a Business visa. (f) Pre-paid recorded delivery envelope for postal applications. (g) Fee. Working days required: At least three days. Express service available. For some nationals it might take longer depending on whether the application needs to be referred to Algeria. Temporary residence: Apply to the authorities in Algeria. Note: Exit permits are required for alien residents and those who have stayed in Algeria for more than three months, except for French nationals. Money Currency: Dinar (AD) = 100 centimes. Notes are in denominations of AD1000, 500, 200, 100 and 50. Coins are in denominations of AD100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1, and 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1 centimes. Note: Because of the very strict adherence of the authorities to these regulations, visitors are strongly advised not to be associated with the black market, which tends to concentrate on the Euro and portable electronics. Currency exchange: In the past, difficulties have arisen when trying to exchange currency in Algeria, with only one national bank (La Banque d’Extérieure d’Algérie) able to exchange foreign currency at branches in major business centres. Difficulties are now decreasing and it is possible, for example, to exchange currency at some of the larger hotels. However, the facilities for currency exchange remain quite limited. Credit & debit cards: Very limited acceptance of Visa, American Express, Diners Club and MasterCard and only in urban areas. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services that may be available. Travellers cheques: Only top-class (4-star and above) hotels and government-run craft (souvenir) shops accept these, and only in certain establishments. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in US Dollars or Euros. Currency restrictions: The import and export of local currency is allowed. The import of foreign currency is unlimited, but must be declared on arrival on a currency declaration form and changed at the nearest bank. The export of foreign currency is up to the amount delcared on import. The currency declaration form and the exchange form must be submitted for inspection. Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Dinar against Sterling and the US Dollar: Date May ’02 Aug ’02 Nov ’02 Feb ’03 £1.00= 116.31 120.45 126.58 126.88 $1.00= 79.81 79.20 80.04 79.69 Banking hours: Sun-Thurs 0900-1530. Duty Free The following goods may be taken into Algeria by persons over 17 years of age without incurring customs duty: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 400g of tobacco; 1l of alcoholic beverages; 500ml of eau de cologne or 150ml of perfume. Prohibited items: Gold, firearms ammunition and narcotics may not be imported or exported. Jewellery, gold and firearms may not be exported. Public Holidays Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Feb 12-13 Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice). Mar 5 Islamic New Year. Mar 14 Ashoura. May 1 Labour Day. May 14 Mouloud (Birth of the Prophet). Jun 19 Revolutionary Readjustment. Jul 5 Independence Day. Nov 1 Anniversary of the Revolution. Dec 26-28 Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan). Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Feb 2-3 Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice). Feb 22 Islamic New Year. Mar 2 Ashoura. May 1 Labour Day. May 2 Mouloud (Birth of the Prophet). Jun 19 Revolutionary Readjustment. Jul 5 Independence Day. Nov 1 Anniversary of the Revolution. Nov 14-16 Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan). Note: Muslim festivals are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximations. The Algerian observance of Ramadan (lasting one lunar month and culminating in the feast days of Eid al-Fitr) has recently relaxed, and restaurants and other business centres will be open during the day. However, in the towns and oases of the south where religious observance tends to be more orthodox, some difficulty might be had in finding eating places and getting transport during the daylight hours. For a more detailed description, see the World of Islam appendix. Health   Special Precautions Certificate Required Yellow Fever Yes 1 Cholera No No Typhoid and Polio 2 N/A Malaria 3 N/A 1: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required by travellers over one year of age arriving within six days of transitting or leaving endemic or infected areas. 2: It is normally advised to get an immunisation course or booster against typhoid and sometimes poliomyelitis. 3: Malaria risk is limited. The benign vivax strain has been reported in Ihrir (Illizi Department). Food & drink: Mains water is normally chlorinated, and whilst relatively safe may cause mild abdominal upsets. Bottled water is available and is advised for the first few weeks of the stay. Drinking water outside main cities and towns is likely to be contaminated and sterilisation is considered essential. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised, but make sure that it is reconstituted with pure water. Local meat, poultry, seafood, fruit and vegetables are generally considered safe to eat. Other risks: Hepatitis A occurs. Hepatitis B, diphtheria and tuberculosis are all present. Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical help without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix. Health care: Medical insurance is not always valid in Algeria and a medical insurance supplement with specific overseas coverage is recommended. Health care facilities are generally of a reasonable standard in the north but more limited in the south. Doctors and hospitals usually ask for immediate cash payment for their services. Emergency cases will be dealt with free of charge. Travel - International Note: Foreign travellers are advised not to visit Algeria (except the Sahara Desert and mountainous regions to the south of the country, which are normally safe) unless on essential business, owing to the current political climate. For further advice contact your local government travel advice department. AIR: Algeria’s national airline is Air Algérie (AH) (www.airalgerie.dz). Other airlines serving Algeria are Alitalia, Balkan, Egyptair, Royal Air Maroc, Saudia, Syrian Arab Airlines and Tunis Air. Approximate flight times: From Algiers to London is 2 hours 15 minutes. International airports: Algiers (ALG) (Houari Boumediène) is 20km (12 miles) east of Algiers. Buses and trains operate to the city 0600-1900 (travel time – 30 minutes). Taxis are also available. Airport facilities include a bank and bureau de change (0730-1900), left luggage, shops, post office, tourist information, restaurants and car hire. Oran (ORN) (Es Senia) is 10km (6 miles) from the city. Taxis are available to the city. Airport facilities include a bank, limited catering and car hire. Annaba (AAE) (Les Saline) is 12km (7.5 miles) from the city. A bus service departs to the city every 30 minutes. Coach service is available on request and taxis are also available. Airport facilities include a restaurant, bank and car-hire facilities. Constantine (CZL) (Ain El Bey) is 9km (6 miles) from the city. There are bus and taxi links with the city and limited airport facilities. Departure tax: None. SEA: The main ports are Algiers, Annaba, Béjaia, Oran and Skikda. Regular shipping lines serve Algiers from Mediterranean ports. Algérie Ferries runs passenger services connecting Algeria to Marseille (France) and Alicante (Spain) (website: www.algerieferries.com). RAIL: There is one daily train connecting Algiers with Tunis in Tunisia via Constantine and Annaba. A reservation is required for this route. First-class carriages are air-conditioned; the train also carries a buffet car and couchettes. Another daily train runs between Algiers and Marrakech in Morocco. Stops en route are Oran, Fès, Mèknes, Rabat and Casablanca. Reservations are required and a supplement is charged. Air-conditioned coaches and light refreshments/buffet car are available. At present, services are interrupted owing to the closure of the border between Algeria and Morocco and through trains are not operating. ROAD: Owing to border closures, land crossings between Morocco and Algeria are not possible at present. The main road entry points are Maghnia (Morocco), Souk-Ahras, Tebessa and El Kala (Tunisia), Fort Thiriet (Libya), In Guezzam (Niger) and Bordj Mokhtar (Mali). There is a good network of paved roads in the coastal regions and paved roads connect the major towns in the northern Sahara. Further south, the only substantial stretches of paved roads are on the two trans-Saharan ‘highways’, one of which runs to the west through Reggane and up through Morocco to the coast, while the other runs through Tamanrasset and Djanet on its way to Ghardaia and Algiers. The precise route taken by trans-Saharan travellers often depends on the season. Please note that many desert ‘roads’ are up to 10km-wide (6-mile) ribbons of unimproved desert and are suitable only for well-maintained four-wheel-drive vehicles. Coach: Services are run by SNTF and Altour with international routes to Tunisia and Morocco. Documentation: International Driving Permit required. Travel - Internal AIR: Air Algérie operates frequent services from Algiers domestic airport (adjacent to Algiers International) to the major business centres of Annaba, Constantine and Oran. Less frequent services run from Algiers, Oran, Constantine and Annaba to the other less important commercial centres and gateway oases such as Ghardaia (6 hours from Algiers) and Ouargla, as well as important oil towns such as In Amenas and Hassi Messaoud. Services are generally reliable, but air travel to the far south may be subject to delay during the dry summer months because of sand storms. Despite this, air is by far the most practical means of transport to the far south for the visitor with limited resources of time; Djanet and Tamanrasset are the oasis gateways to the Tassili N’Ajjer and the Hoggar respectively. Note: The London office of Air Algérie (tel: (020) 7487 5709; e-mail: sales@airalgerie.co.uk) can provide a timetable of services and prices, make reservations and issue tickets. There is an Air Algérie office in every Algerian town which is served by the airline. Reservations and itineraries can be arranged from these offices, but as some of the more isolated offices are not connected by computer, fax or telex, reservations should be confirmed well in advance. Offices are very busy in the major towns. SEA: Government ferries service the main coastal ports: Algiers, Annaba, Arzew, Béjaia, Djidjelli, Ghazaouet, Mostaganem, Oran and Skikda. RAIL: There are 4000km (2500 miles) of railway in Algeria, run by the Société Nationale des Transports Ferroviaires (SNTF). Daily but fairly slow services operate in the northern part of the country between Algiers and Oran, Béjaia, Skikda, Annaba and Constantine. The southern routes connect once a day from Annaba to Tebessa via Souk Ahras, Constantine with Touggourt via Biskra (twice a day) and Mohammadia with Bechar. Trains on the southern routes only carry second-class coaches. ROAD: Road surfaces are reasonably good. All vehicles travelling in the desert should be in good mechanical condition, as breakdown facilities are virtually non-existent. Travellers must carry full supplies of water and petrol. Traffic drives on the right. Coach: Relatively inexpensive coaches, run by the SNTF, link major towns. Services are regular but this mode of travel is not recommended for long journeys, such as travel to the south from the coastal strip. Services leave from the coach stations close to the centres of Algiers and Oran. Car hire: Can be arranged at the airport on arrival or in most towns. Many hotels can also arrange car hire. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is required. A carnet de passage may be required if one’s own car is to be used. Cars are allowed entry for three months without duty. Insurance must be purchased at the border. Proof of ownership is essential. URBAN: Municipal bus and tram services operate in Algiers, its suburbs and the coastal area. Ten-journey carnets and daily, weekly or longer duration passes are available. There are also two public lifts and a funicular which lead up to the hill overlooking the old souk in Algiers. An underground system is planned. Taxi: All taxis are metered and are plentiful in most cities and major towns, though busy during the early evening in the main cities as many people use them to return home after work. The habit of sharing a taxi is widespread. The amount on the meter is the correct fare, but there are surcharges after dark. Travellers are advised not to use unlicensed taxis, as these are likely to be uninsured. TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times (in hours and minutes) from Algiers to other major cities/towns in Algeria.   Air Road Constantine 0.45 4.00 Ghardaia 0.55 6.00 Oran 0.50 4.00 Tlemcen 1.00 6.00 Béjaia 0.45 3.00 Biskra 1.15 5.00 El Oued 1.25 6.00 Annaba 0.55 6.00 H. Messaoud 1.05 8.00 Accommodation HOTELS: In general, good hotel accommodation in Algeria is limited. The business centres, and in particular Algiers, tend to have either extremely expensive luxury hotels or cheaper hotels primarily suited to the local population visiting on business or for social purposes. Oran and Algiers are full of the cheaper hotels, but they tend to be crowded and difficult to get into, even with a confirmed booking. For assurance on business, reserve rooms only at the best hotels. Grading: All hotels are subject to government regulations and are classified by a star rating: deluxe (5-star), second class (4/3-star) and tourist class (2/1-star). The Coast: The hotels in the resorts along the Mediterranean coast have increased in number, and many are of a reasonably high standard. Often the good hotels in these resorts run their own nightclubs. Winter rates for coastal resorts apply from 1 October to 31 May, and summer rates for the remainder of the year. The Oases: Good hotels in the gateway oases of the mid-south such as Ghardaia and Ouargla are few and far between, and during the season (any time other than high summer, which runs from late June to early September) it is vital to book well in advance. The Far South: Hotels in the very far south are extremely limited. In Tamanrasset, better class hotels have been built since the oasis became a fashionable winter resort. Room availability is, however, limited. CAMPING/CARAVANNING: Camping is free on common land or on the beaches but permission from the local authorities is necessary. Campsites with good facilities are found in Larhat, Ain el-Turk and Annaba. YOUTH HOSTELS: There is a good network of (single sex) youth hostels throughout the country offering accommodation at budget rates. For more information, contact the Fédération Algérienne des Auberges de Jeunesse, 213 Rue Hassiba Ben Bouali, BP 15, El Annasser, Algier. Tel/fax: (21) 678 658/7. Introduction Foreign visitors are advised to avoid all of Algeria (except for the Sahara desert and mountainous regions in the south, which are usually free of terrorist activity) unless on essential business. For the purposes of this section, the country has been divided into two regions. The North includes the 1200km-long (750-mile) coastal strip, along which Algiers and Oran are situated, and the highlands of the Hauts Plateaux, immediately to the south. The second half of this guide covers the Sahara, which accounts for the largest part of Algeria’s territory. The North ALGIERS: The capital has been a port since Roman times and many impressive ruins can still be seen, such as those at Djemila, Timgad and especially Tipasa (see below), which are all in good condition because of the dry desert climate. Algiers was commercialised by the French in the mid-19th century and much of the fabric of the city dates from this time. However, it still has a Maghreb feel to it, with many zig-zag alleyways, mosques, a casbah, medersas (study houses) and the beautiful Turkish houses and palaces much admired by Le Corbusier. The Bardo Ethnographic and Local Art Museum and the National Museum of Fine Arts are amongst the finest in North Africa. Excursions: Within easy reach of Algiers along the coast lie some fine resorts. Zeralda is a beach resort with a holiday village and a replica nomad village. Tipasa has exceptional Roman, Punic and Christian ruins, and a Numidian mausoleum. The Chiffa Gorges and Kabylia in the mountains provide more rural scenery. Fig and olive groves in summer become ski resorts in the winter. To the east of Algiers, the Turquoise Coast offers rocky coves and long beaches within easy reach of the city, equipped with sports, cruise and watersports facilities. The Sidi Fredj peninsula has a marina, an open-air theatre and complete amenities including sporting facilities. ORAN: The western coast around Algeria’s second city has a similar range of beaches, historic remains and mosques. Along the coast from Oran, which is primarily a business centre and an oil depot, there are a number of resorts, many with well-equipped hotels. Notable beaches include Ain El Turk, Les Andalouses, Canastel, Kristel, Mostaganem and Sablettes. Les Andalouses is the most developed and offers all types of watersports facilities and nightclub entertainment as well as first-class accommodation. THE HAUTS PLATEAUX: Tlemcen was an important imperial city from the 12th to 16th centuries. It stands in the wooded foothills of the Tellian Atlas and is a pleasant retreat from the stifling heat of high summer. Sights include the Grand Mosque, the Mansourah Fortress and the Almohad ramparts. Constantine, to the east, is a natural citadel lying across the River Rhumnel. Founded by the Carthaginians, who called it Cirta, it is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Algeria. Sights include the Ahmed Bey Palace (one of the most picturesque in the Maghreb) and the Djamma el-Kebir Mosque. The Sahara The Sahara is the most striking and also most forbidding feature of the country. Relatively uninhabited, the area is drawing increasing numbers of winter tourists. Accommodation, though generally good value, is often scarce in oasis regions, and during the season it is advisable to book in advance. Air Algérie operates frequent flights from Algiers to Ghardaia, Djanet and Tamanrasset, as well as to several smaller towns, oases and oil settlements, but services can be delayed in high summer owing to adverse weather conditions. Roads are much improved, although summer sand storms and winter rains can make all but the major routes hazardous. The best way to enter the south is to cross the El Kautara Gorges to the south of Constantine. The sudden glimpse of the Sahara through the El Kautara Gorges is breathtaking. These gorges are said to separate the winter areas from the land of everlasting summer and are called Fouur Es Sahra (‘the Sahara’s mouth’) by the inhabitants. Further down, most Algerian oases generally defy the European cliché of a small patch of palms forever threatened by encroaching dunes: they are often fairly large towns with highly organised, walled-in gardens with date palms, and mosques, shops and monuments. Favourite starting places for exploring the Sahara are Laghouat, a town with a geometric plan, or the M’Zab Valley, which has seven typical holy towns and is inhabited by a Muslim fundamentalist sect called the Mozabites. Mozabite towns are distinguished by a characteristic minaret with four spires. The most famous among them is Ghardaia, coiled within a group of bare, ochre rocks. The streets, made of clay or paving stones, curl up through the blue and beige buildings towards the white obelisk of the minaret. Not far from Ghardaia, situated on a hill, is the holy town of Beni-Isguen, the four gates of which are constantly guarded. The special feature of this town is its permanent auction market. In the east of the M’Zab region is Ouargla, referred to as ‘the golden key to the desert’. This town is well worth visiting for its malekite (an Islamic sect) minaret overlooking an expansive landscape. At the foot of the minaret lies the market square, the porticos of the souks and the terraced house roofs of the inhabitants. Further on is an oasis surrounded by palm trees and beyond that lie the beaches of the Sebkha. Deeper into the south lies the town of El Goléa, referred to as ‘the pearl of the desert’ or ‘the enchanted oasis’ because of its luxuriant vegetation and abundant water. The town is dominated by an old ksar (fort) whose ruins are well preserved. Moving ever further south one comes to the Hoggar Mountains, an impressive, jagged range reaching as far as Libya and surrounded by desert on all sides. It consists of a plateau made of volcanic rock. Eroded cliffs and granite needles form fascinating shapes in pink, blue or black basalt. At the top of the Assekreu nestles the famous refuge of Charles de Foucault at 2800m (9259ft). Mount Tahat, which belongs to the Atakor Massif, can be seen in the distance, reaching 3000m (9921ft) at its highest point. The picturesque capital, Tamanrasset, situated at the heart of the Hoggar Mountains, is full of life and character and is an important stopping place for commercial traffic travelling to and from West Africa. Being a large town with many hotels and restaurants, tourists often stay in ‘Tam’ (as it is sometimes called) and use it as a base for touring the Hoggar Mountains (the Assekreu and Charles de Foucault’s hermitage) or hiking in the open desert to the south and west in the company of camel drivers who carry their luggage. It is also a popular winter holiday resort and a centre for oil exploration and exploitation. It is visited regularly by the camel caravans of les hommes bleus, blue-robed Touaregs, who are the ancient nomadic inhabitants of this wide region. They make their way around the inscrutable desert through an ancient knowledge of landmarks passed on from father to son. These nomads have a fair complexion, a blue veil over the lower half of their faces and are often very tall. The tiny oasis of Djanet, another watering hole for commercial traffic and trans-Saharan expeditions, can be found in the Tassili N’Ajjer, or ‘Plateau of Chasms’. This is a vast volcanic plateau crossed by massive gorges gouged out by rivers which have long since dried out or gone underground. The Tassili conceals a whole group of entirely unique rupestrian paintings (rock paintings), which go back at least as far as the neolithic age. The paintings, depicting daily life, hunting scenes and herds of animals, have a striking beauty and reveal ways of life several thousand years old. They spread out over a 130,000 sq km surface (50,000 sq miles) and form an extraordinary open-air museum which has been miraculously conserved, owing to the pure quality of the air. Tours of the Tassili Plateau and the rupestrian paintings, as well as long-distance car treks in the Ténéré are available, lasting from one day to two weeks. These visits are organised by private agencies run by the Tuareg and most of them offer a high-quality service. Tourists are collected at the airport (either Djanet or Tamanrasset) and the agency provides them with transportation (usually in four-wheel-drive vehicles), mattresses and food, although travellers must bring their own sleeping bags. Sport & Activities Horseracing and football are popular. The northern coastline offers fishing, swimming, sailing and water-skiing, mainly in Algiers and Annaba. Social Profile Food & Drink: Algiers and popular coastal towns have a fair selection of good restaurants, serving mainly French and Italian-style food, though the spicy nature of the sauces sets the cuisine apart from its European counterparts. Even classic dishes will have an unmistakable Algerian quality. Fish dishes are exceptionally good. Menus generally feature a soup or salad to start, roast meat (lamb or beef) or fish as a main course and fresh fruit to finish. In the towns, stalls sell brochettes (kebabs) in French bread and covered in a spicy sauce (if desired). The range of foodstuffs in the south is more limited. Local cooking, which is often served for guests of a household, will often consist of roast meat (generally lamb), cous-cous with a vegetable sauce and fresh fruit to finish. Good-quality food is reasonably priced. The sale of alcohol is not encouraged. Alcohol is only available in the more expensive restaurants and hotels and is generally not cheap. There are no licensing hours and hotel bars tend to stay open for as long as there is custom. Algeria produces some good wines but very few of them seem to be served in the country itself. If available try Medea, Mansourah and Mascara red wines and Medea, Mascara and Lismara rosés. The major hotels may have a reasonable cellar of European wines. All visitors are advised to respect Muslim attitudes to alcohol. Nightlife: The main towns offer reasonable entertainment facilities, including hotel restaurants, nightclubs, discotheques, folk dancing and traditional music. In Oran and Algiers, some cinemas show French and English films. Shopping: Possible souvenirs include leatherware, rugs, copper and brassware, local dresses and jewellery. Berber carpets are beautifully decorated, and from the Sahara comes finely-dyed basketwork and primitive-style pottery. Bargaining is customary in street markets and smaller shops. The rue Didouche Mourad is the best shopping street in Algiers. There are two state-run craft centres with fixed prices. One is located at Algiers airport. Shopping hours: Sat-Thurs 0900-1200 and 1400-1900. Some shops open on Fridays. Social Conventions: Courtesy should be adopted with new acquaintances. The provision and acceptance of hospitality are as important a part of Algerian culture as elsewhere in the Arab world. In the main cities, the urban population lives at a frantic pace much akin to European urban dwellers, but in the south and in rural areas people are much more open and friendly. Algerian women have strict social and dress codes. Western women should respect Muslim tradition and cover themselves as much as possible or they may incite hostility. Tourist visits should be avoided during Ramadan. For more information, see the World of Islam appendix. Photography: Military installations and personnel should not be photographed. Visitors are advised to make sure there is nothing that could be of a governmental or military nature around their prospective photographic subject. Tipping: Ten per cent is usual. Business Profile Economy: Petroleum and natural gas are the most important industries in Algeria and account for all but a small fraction of the country's exports. Most of the country is covered by the Sahara Desert, and despite investments in the agricultural sector (the main crops being wheat, potatoes, grapes, cereals and citrus fruits), Algeria is far from self-sufficient in foodstuffs and is vulnerable to drought. Most of the fertile land is located in the northern littoral region. The Government has recently completed the process of breaking up state agricultural co-operatives and turning the land over to its occupants. Minerals, principally iron ore and phosphates, are the other major export. The country’s principal trading partners are France, Germany, Italy and Spain: it currently supplies a quarter of European natural gas imports. This proportion which is likely to increase with the construction of a new pipeline linking coastal terminals to newly-developed Saharan gas fields. From Europe, Algeria imports most of its industrial equipment and consumer goods. The IMF and other Western donors have provided loans and aid packages, conditional on liberalising economic reforms and the sale of state-owned industrial assets: the Government has, by and large, been prepared to meet these. Business: Suits should always be worn in winter months, shirt sleeves during the summer. Prior appointments are necessary for larger business firms. Businessmen generally speak Arabic or French and, as a great deal of bargaining is necessary, it is rarely convenient to carry out transactions through an interpreter. Patience is always important. Visitors are usually entertained in hotels or restaurants, where Algerian businessmen are seldom accompanied by their wives. Only rarely are visitors entertained at home. If visiting during Ramadan (and this should be avoided if possible) care should be taken to observe local custom in public places (for a more detailed description, see the World of Islam appendix). The climate is best between October and May. Office hours: Generally Sat-Wed 0800-1200 and 1300-1600. Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Chambre de Commerce d’Algiers, Palais Consulaire, BP 100, 6 boulevard Amilcar Cabral, Place des Martyrs, 6003 Algiers (tel: (21) 715 160 or 965 050 or 966 060; fax: (21) 710 714; e-mail: caci@wissal.dz; website: www.caci.com.dz). Climate Summer temperatures are high throughout the country, particularly in the south where it is both very dry and very hot. During this time road travel is difficult and air travel prone to delay because of sandstorms. Northern cities have high humidity, while those along the coast are cooled by sea breezes. In the winter, the oases of the far south are pleasant and attract many visitors. The desert temperature drops dramatically at night. North of the Sahara, temperatures are very mild from September to May and vary little between day and night. South of the Sahara, temperatures are pleasant from October to April, but there are great variations between day and night. Coastal towns are prone to storms from the sea. Rainfall is relatively low throughout the country and in the far south it is virtually unknown. Required clothing: Cotton and linen lightweights for winter months and evenings in desert areas. Woollens and light rainwear are advised for the winter along the coast and the Hauts Plateaux. South of the Sahara, from mid-December to mid-January, temperatures drop and warm clothes are necessary both in the morning and the evening. A mountain sleeping bag is also required when camping. History and Government History: The present borders of Algeria (as well as those of Tunisia and Libya) were determined when the region became part of the Ottoman Empire, at which time each of the countries was an administrative subdivision (vilayat). The coming of the Ottomans led to the Spanish losing the coastal strip they had previously held for several centuries. It subsequently became a pirate base for attacking European fleets. The French launched a military attack in 1830 and occupied part of the littoral which became the embryo for their subsequent North African colonial empire. Pressure for independence began from within the country in the early 1950s with the formation of the Front de Libération Nationale (FLN). The civil war which ensued from the French reluctance to concede independence pitted the FLN, backed by the bulk of the population against the French military, the pieds noirs (French settlers) and their Arab supporters (known as harkis). Even by the standards of the many wars of independence throughout that era, the Algerian one was characterised by particular brutality and is estimated to have led to one million casualties. Independence was finally conceded in 1962 with an FLN-controlled government under Ahmed Ben Bella. Ben Bella was subsequently deposed by the Minister of Defence, Houari Boumedienne, who ruled until his death in December 1978. Boumedienne's replacement was an army commander, Chadli Bendjedid, reflecting the continuing strong influence of the military on Algerian politics. The orthodox socialist policies initially adopted by the FLN were discarded from 1986 onwards with the revision of the National Charter to stress ‘pragmatic socialism’: in part, this was a response to the rise of Islamic influence, especially among the urban poor. Exactly how far this process had gone became apparent in June 1990 when multi-party municipal and local elections were held for the first time. Although the FLN secured a majority, Islamic parties made a strong showing, especially in the urban ghettos of Algiers and other cities. The most prominent of the new parties was the Front Islamique du Salut (FIS, Islamic Salvation Front) whose growing support has since changed the face of Algerian politics. In January 1992, FIS won a comprehensive victory in national elections. However, the government immediately annulled the result and declared a state of emergency. Over the ensuing months, the military took complete control with the support and collaboration of a group of civil servants, military and intelligence officials, commonly known as Le Pouvoir (literally ‘The Power’). The regime’s dominant figure over the next five years was General Liamine Zéroual, a senior army officer, who became defence minister and then president. Opposing Le Pouvoir were FIS and, increasingly, armed dissidents led by the Groupe Islamique Armée (GIA). The stage was now set for a savage civil war, which has consumed the country with a series of apparently random slaughters of hundreds of civilians in isolated villages, and also of groups of foreign journalists or aid workers. There is compelling evidence that government-controlled units are involved in many of these killings as well as members of the militant Islamic factions. With extensive support from the French government, the regime has managed to keep effective control of the country. Several elections have since been held in order to bolster the regime’s legitimacy and prove to the international community that normal conditions apply. At the beginning of 1999, Zéroual announced his intention to step down. A new presidential poll was arranged, but under such tightly controlled conditions that candidates who initially chose to oppose the official candidate eventually decided to boycott it. Abdelaziz Bouteflika, formerly Algeria’s long-standing and respected foreign minister was thus elected unopposed. The incidence of violence has declined somewhat during the last few years as the security forces have got to grips with the guerrilla organisations. However, during 2001, the government was also faced with growing agitation from the country's Berber ethnic minority over language and civil rights. Following the withdrawal of the main Berber political grouping and the rally for culture and democracy, Bouteflika made a number of concessions to Berber demands in early 2002 which have pacified the increasingly violent confrontation between Berbers and the government. (Tamazight, the Berber tongue, is now recognised as an official national language). Government: An executive president is directly elected for a five-year term. The bicameral legislature, which serves as the legislature, comprises the 380-seat National People’s Assembly (al-Majlis al-Sha'abi al-Watani) whose members are directly elected for a five-year term; and the 144-member National Council (al-Majlis al-Umma) with two-thirds elected by ‘communal councils’ and the remainder appointed by the president. Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.