Ecuador Overview Country Overview Ecuador is bordered by Colombia, Peru and the Pacific Ocean. There are three distinct zones: the Sierra or uplands of the Andes, the Costa, a coastal plain between the Andes and the Pacific with plantations of bananas, cacao, coffee and sugar; and the Oriente, the upper Amazon basin to the east, consisting of tropical jungles threaded by rivers. Quito, the capital city, is in a setting of great natural beauty, overshadowed by the volcano Pichincha with its twin peaks of Ruca and Guagua. Guayaquil, Ecuador’s biggest city, is also the chief port and commercial centre. The Littoral is a narrow coastal belt, 560km (350 miles) in length. The chief ports provide visitors with some of the best resorts for deep-sea fishing on the west coast. The Oriente is a primeval world of virgin forests and exotic flora and fauna, still inhabited by Indian tribes. Food specialities include llapingachos (pancakes with mashed potato and cheese) and the national delicacy of baked guinea pig. The best local drink is paico, made from fresh lemon. There is little nightlife except in Quito and Guayaquil, where there are excellent restaurants and other attractions. General Information Area: 272,045 sq km (105,037 sq miles). Population: 12,646,095 (official estimate 2000). Population Density: 46.5 per sq km. Capital: Quito. Population: 1,444,363 (1996). GEOGRAPHY: Ecuador is bounded to the north by Colombia, to the east and south by Peru, and to the west by the Pacific Ocean. There are three distinct zones: the Sierra or uplands of the Andes, running from the Colombian border in the north to Peru in the south, of which there are two main ranges, the Eastern and Western Cordilleras (divided by a long valley); the Costa, a coastal plain between the Andes and the Pacific with plantations of bananas, cacao, coffee and sugar; and the Oriente, the upper Amazon basin to the east, consisting of tropical jungles threaded by rivers. The latter, although comprising 36 per cent of Ecuador’s land area, contains only three per cent of the population. Colonisation is, however, increasing in the wake of the oil boom. Government: Republic since 1978. Head of State: President Lucio Edwin Gutiérrez Borbúa since 2003. Head of Government: Prime Minister Marcelo Lucio Gutiérrez since 2002. Language: Spanish is the official language but Quechua and other indigenous languages are common. Some English is spoken. Religion: More than 90 per cent are nominally Roman Catholic. Time: GMT - 5 (Galapagos Islands GMT - 6). Electricity: 110/120 volts AC, 60Hz. Communications:   Telephone International calls must be made through an operator. Country code: 593. Outgoing international code: 00. Mobile telephone AMPS network is operated by Otecel, and AMPS-TDMA network is operated by Conecel. Not compatible with GSM handsets. Internet ISPs include Interactive (website: www.interactive.net.ec). Telegram These may be sent from the chief telegraph office in main towns. There is a 24-hour service in Quito and a service until 2000 at some hotels. Post Airmail to western Europe and the USA takes up to a week, but incoming deliveries are less certain. Press Dailies are in Spanish and include El Comercio and Hoy, published in Quito; and El Telégrafo and El Universo, published in Guayaquil. There are two English-language newspapers, Q and Inside Ecuador, though both are published irregularly. International newspapers and magazines are available at international airports and in some bookshops. BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice): MHz 17.79 15.19 12.10 5.975 Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov): MHz 13.79 9.455 6.130 5.995 Passport/Visa   Passport Required? Visa Required? Return Ticket Required? British Yes 1 Yes Australian Yes 1 Yes Canadian Yes 1 Yes USA Yes 1 Yes OtherEU Yes 1 Yes Japanese Yes 1 Yes PASSPORTS: Passport valid for at least six months required by all except nationals of Colombia with an identity card. Note: Passports must be carried at all times. VISAS: Required only by: (a) nationals of Algeria, Bangladesh, China (PR), Costa Rica, Cuba, Guatemala, Honduras, India, Iran, Iraq, Jordan, Korea (Dem Rep), Korea (Rep), Lebanon, Libya, Nigeria, Pakistan, Palestinian Authority area, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Syria, Tunisia, Vietnam and Yemen; (b) 1. all nationals wishing to remain in Ecuador for more than three months. Nationals listed above also require a visa even when in transit, unless continuing their journey to a third country by the same or first connecting flight or within 48 hours provided holding confirmed onward tickets and not leaving the airport. As this list may change at short notice, visitors to Ecuador are advised to check with the nearest Consulate before travelling. Note: Those with visas must register with the Ministry of Government and the Director General of Migration in Ecuador within 30 days of their entry. Types of visa and cost: Tourist/Business/Student: prices vary according to nationality. Travellers are advised to contact their nearest embassy for details. (Visas are issued free of charge to nationals of the USA, Germany, Spain, Colombia and Paraguay.) Cultural Exchange: free of charge. Note: It is illegal to study on a Tourist visa. Validity: Tourist, Transit and Business visas are valid for up to six months; Student visas are valid for up to one year (renewable); Cultural Exchange visas are valid for up to one year. Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section. Application requirements: (a) Completed application form. (b) Two passport-size photos. (c) Valid passport. (d) Fee. (e) Return ticket. (f) Certificate of economic solvency, for instance a notarized personal reference by someone residing in Ecuador or a bank statement. Business visa: (a)-(e) and, (f) Letter from applicant’s firm and sponsoring company or a bank statement. Student visa: (a)-(e) and, (f) Certificate of the course registration in Ecuador. (g) Certificate of financial solvency (eg a bank deposit with a letter stating the intention of the bank to pay the student ten per cent of that amount a month) or a document signed by a relative stating that the student is supported by a family member. Cultural Exchange visa: (a)-(e), and (f) Application from the Ecuadorian authority sponsoring the student/teacher with a copy of the agreement under which the programme is carried out and, for teachers, a signed document stating that they will not receive any Ecuadorian funds for their work. Note: A measles vaccination certificate is required by all nationals travelling from Colombia, Germany, Italy and Venezuela and must be shown upon arrival. Working days required: Applications must be made in person (an appointment is necessary) and a visa is usually issued on the same day. Temporary residence: Persons wishing to stay longer than six months should apply to the Consulate for details. Money Currency: US Dollar (US$) = 100 cents. Notes are in denominations of US$100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. Coins are in denominations of US$1 and 50, 25, 10, 5 and 1 cents. The US Dollar replaced the Sucre as the official currency of Ecuador in April 2000. Currency exchange: Foreign currencies can be exchanged at banks and at exchange houses (casas de cambio), the latter being generally the best option. It may be difficult to exchange money in the Oriente. The rate of commission varies between one per cent and four per cent, so it is worth shopping around. ATMs are available in large urban areas. Credit & debit cards: MasterCard, American Express, Visa and Diners Club are accepted. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available. Travellers cheques: To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in US Dollars. Currency restrictions: There are no restrictions on the import and export of either local or foreign currency. Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the US Dollar against Sterling: Date May ’02 Aug ’02 Nov ’02 Feb ’03 £1.00= 1.46 1.52 1.58 1.59 Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1330; some banks are also open Sat 0930-1400. Casos de cambio are open Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 0900-1200. Duty Free The following goods may be imported into Ecuador without incurring customs duty: 300 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 200g of tobacco; 1l of alcohol; a reasonable amount of perfume; gifts and personal effects up to US$200 (for stay of up to seven days) or US$500 (for stay of two years onwards). Note: Prior permission is required for the import of firearms, ammunition, narcotics, fresh or dry meat and meat products, plants and vegetables. Public Holidays Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Mar 3-4* Carnival. Apr 17 Maundy Thursday. Apr 18 Good Friday. May 1 Labour Day. May 24 Battle of Pichincha. Jun 19 Corpus Christi. Jun 27 Bank Holiday. Jul 24 Simon Bolivar Day. Aug 10 Independence Day. Oct 9 Independence of Guayaquil. Nov 2 All Souls’ Day. Nov 3 Independence of Cuenca. Dec 6* Foundation of Quito. Dec 25 Christmas Day. Dec 31* New Year’s Eve. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Feb 23-24* Carnival. Apr 8 Maundy Thursday. Apr 18 Good Friday. May 1 Labour Day. May 24 Battle of Pichincha. Jun 19 Corpus Christi. Jun 25 Bank Holiday. Jul 24 Simon Bolivar Day. Aug 10 Independence Day. Oct 9 Independence of Guayaquil. Nov 2 All Souls’ Day. Nov 3 Independence of Cuenca. Dec 6* Foundation of Quito. Dec 25 Christmas Day. Dec 31* New Year’s Eve. Note: *These holidays are not official public holidays, but are widely observed. Other holidays, in addition to the above, may be marked locally. Health   Special Precautions Certificate Required Yellow Fever Yes 1 Cholera 2 No Typhoid and Polio 3 N/A Malaria 4 N/A 1: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from all travellers over one year of age arriving from infected areas. Travellers arriving from non-endemic zones should note that vaccination is strongly recommended for travel outside the urban areas, even if an outbreak of the disease has not been reported and they would normally not require a vaccination certificate to enter the country. 2: Following WHO guidelines issued in 1973, a cholera vaccination certificate is no longer a condition of entry to Ecuador. However, cholera is a serious risk in this country and precautions are essential. Up-to-date advice should be sought before deciding whether these precautions should include vaccination as medical opinion is divided over its effectiveness. See the Health appendix for further information. 3: Typhoid poses some risk in rural areas. 4: Malaria risk, predominantly in the benign vivax form, is high throughout the year below 1500m in 148 cantons in 19 provinces. A high proportion of falciparum cases in Esmeraldes Province are reportedly resistant to chloroquine. Food & drink: All water should be regarded as being potentially contaminated. Water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should have first been boiled or otherwise sterilised. Bottled water is available. Milk is unpasteurised and should be boiled. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised, but make sure that it is reconstituted with pure water. Avoid dairy products which are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Pork, salad and mayonnaise may carry increased risk. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled. Other risks: Endemic onchocerciasis occurs in rural areas. Hepatitis A and B are hyperendemic and inoculation with gamma globulin is highly recommended. Hepatitis D is endemic in the Amazon Basin. Dengue fever might occur. Altitude sickness is a risk flying directly into Quito (2850m). Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix. Health care: Medical facilities outside the major towns are extremely limited. Health insurance (to include emergency repatriation) is strongly recommended. Travel - International Note: Travel to northern border areas with Colombia, particularly Napo, Orellana and Sucumbios provinces, is not recommended. It is also advisable to avoid border areas with Ecuador. For further advice visitors should contact their local government travel advice department. AIR: Ecuador’s national airlines are SAETA (EH), SAN (WB) and TAME (EQ). Ecuatoriana (EU) connects Ecuador with the USA and some South American countries. American Airlines operates daily flights from London Heathrow to Guayaquil, via Miami. Approximate flight times: From Quito to London is 17 hours, to Los Angeles is 9 hours and to New York is 9 hours 30 minutes. International airports: Quito (UIO) (Mariscal Sucre) is 5km (3 miles) from the city centre. A bus service operates every 20 minutes from 1100-0300 (travel time – 30 minutes). Return is from Avenida 10 de Agosto. Taxis are also available. Guayaquil (GYE) (Simón Bolívar) is 5km (3 miles) from the city. There are bus and taxi services into the city. Departure tax: US$25. The Visit South America Pass: This must be bought outside South America in country of residence and allows unlimited travel to 36 cities in the following countries: Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Chile (except Easter Island), Ecuador, Paraguay, Peru, Uruguay and Venezuela. Participating airlines include LAN-Chile (LA), Aer Lingus (EI), American Airlines (AA), British Airways (BA), Cathay Pacific (CX), Finnair (AY), IBERIA (IB) and Qantas (QF). A minimum of three flights must be booked, with no maximum; the maximum stay is 60 days, with no minimum, and prices depend on the amount of flight zones covered. For both air passes children under 12 years of age are entitled to a 33 per cent discount and infants (under two years old) only pay ten per cent of the adult fare. For further details contact one of the participating airlines. SEA: There are regular passenger/cargo services from Europe, including Hamburg-South American, Royal Netherlands, Knutsen and Johnson Lines, which take 20-22 days from Rotterdam and Le Havre. Others sail from Antwerp, Genoa and Liverpool, and the US West Coast (Delta Line Cruises). Guayaquil is the main port for both passengers and freight. ROAD: The Pan-American Highway bisects the country from the Colombian border at Rumichaca south to Quito and on to Riobamba, Cuenca, Loja and ending at Macará near the border with Peru. Bus: Panamericana Internacional operates direct services to Caracas, Venezuela (tel: (2) 250 1585). Rutas de America operates direct services to Venezuela, Colombia and Peru and connections to Bolivia, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay and Brazil (tel/fax: (2) 254 8142; fax: (2) 250 3612). Visitors should remember to carry their passports at all times as there may be frequent controls, both within Ecuador and at border crossings. Travel - Internal AIR: The national airline, TAME, flies frequently between Guayaquil, Quito and other destinations throughout the country. A number of small airlines serve the coast and eastern part of the country. Flying is the usual mode of transport for intercity travel. Other airports include Cuenca, Manta, Esmeraldas, Lago Agrio and Coca. Departure tax: Twelve per cent of the ticket price, paid with the ticket. Galapágos Islands: There are daily flights to the Galapágos Islands on national airlines from both Quito and Guayaquil; note that non-Ecuadoreans have to pay more for their tickets on this route (US$40 is charged for visiting any national park). The main airports in the Galapágos are Caráquez and Baltra. SEA/RIVER: Ecuador’s rocky coastline makes coast-hopping an inefficient and even dangerous means of transport for visitors. Several navigable rivers flow eastwards into the Amazon basin. Dugout canoes, which carry up to about 25 people, are widely used as a means of transport in roadless areas, particularly in the Oriente jungles and in the northwest coastal regions. There are few passenger services between the mainland and the Galápagos Islands; once there, however, tourist boats, local mail steamers and hired yachts may be used to travel between islands. RAIL: Children aged under three travel free; those aged three-11 pay half fare. The journey from Guayaquil to Quito offers spectacular views, as the train climbs to 3238m (10,623ft) in 80km (50 miles), reaching its highest point at Urbina (3609m/11,841ft). Railway enthusiasts will also enjoy the particularly scenic sections on the Alausí–Duran and Ibarra–San Lorenzo sections. Landslides caused by heavy rain frequently disrupt train services. Always check for further details on arrival in the country. ROAD: Traffic drives on the right. An extensive network of roads spreads out from the main north–south axis of the Pan-American Highway. The Government and PetroEcuador are developing highways into the Oriente. In general, road improvements are being put into effect rapidly but, due to the effect of earthquakes and flooding (in the south) during the last ten years, conditions remain variable; potholes and cracks in the road are sometimes sizeable. The roads between Quito and Guayaquil and between Quito, Latacunga, Ambato and Riobamba are completely paved. A road connects Quito, Otavalo, Ibarra and Tulcan, the frontier with Colombia. Bus: Long-distance buses leave from central bus stations (terminal terrestre) but timetables can be unreliable. Tickets should be bought in advance to secure a seat. Buses generally tend to be crowded and fairly uncomfortable. Taxis: These are widely available, particularly in larger cities and towns. Fares tend to be low but should be negotiated in advance. Taxis are metered in Quito, but rarely elsewhere. Taxis may be hired for a day for around US$60. Car hire: Avis, Budget, National and Hertz car hire companies all operate in Ecuador. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is not required. URBAN: Quito and Guayaquil have bus and minibus services operating at flat fares. TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times (in hours and minutes) from Quito to other major cities and towns in Ecuador. Air Road Rail Guayaquil 0.50 7.00 7.00 Cuenca 1.30 9.30 - Ambato - 2.30 - Riobamba - 3.30 3.00 Esmeraldas 1.00 7.00 - Puerto Ayora 2.30 - - Accommodation HOTELS: Hotel rooms should be booked at least a week in advance. Outside the main towns a more or less standard price is charged per person for one night in a provision residencia, or a hotel. There is, however, a minimum charge per person. A ten per cent service charge and five per cent tax are added to upper- and middle-range hotel bills. Cheaper hotels usually charge five per cent at the most. Hotel accommodation is very limited on the Galápagos Islands. Further information is available through the national hotel association, Federación Hotelera del Ecuador (AHOTEC), Avenida América 5378, Quito (tel: (2) 244 3425; fax: (2) 245 3942; e-mail: ahotec@interactive.net.ec). Grading: Hotels in Ecuador have been graded into three main categories according to standard and price bracket. All categories provide at least basic facilities. CAMPING/CARAVANNING: Camping facilities in Ecuador are run by US or European agencies, but these are very limited. Camping is forbidden on the Galápagos Islands. Quito Ecuador’s capital (and second-largest) city has a setting of great natural beauty, overshadowed by the volcano Pichincha with its twin peaks of Ruco and Guagua. Quito is located at 2850m (9348 ft) above sea level and some visitors may suffer from altitude sickness during the first hours after arrival. Quito used to be a major Inca city that was destroyed shortly before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. Although no Inca traces remain, the city has preserved much of its Spanish colonial character, the cathedral in the Plaza de la Independencia (the oldest church in South America) and the many old churches and monasteries being among the most notable instances. Also in the plaza is the Municipal Palace, the Archbishop’s Palace and the Palacio Presidencial. Many of the city’s famous churches and monasteries contain priceless examples of Spanish art and sculpture, particularly the Monasterio de San Francisco (located in the beautiful plaza of the same name) and the Jesuit church of La Compañia. Most of Quito’s colonial churches are located in the Old Town, parts of which have been listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Perhaps the best preserved colonial street is the historic alley of La Ronda. Other places in Quito worth visiting include the Parque La Alameda (a triangular-shaped park), the astronomical observatory, the School of Fine Arts and the modern Palacio Legislativo. As the cultural and political capital, Quito has a number of museums of colonial and modern art. The Museo del Banco Central, located in the Casa de la Cultura, has a vast archaeological repertory as well as displays of colonial furniture and religious art. Also of interest is the Museo Guayasamín, home to many fine works of Ecuador’s renowned modern artist Oswaldo Guayasamín. The Andean Highlands The Pan-American Highway traverses the country from north to south, a spectacular route which passes through all the principal cities of the Andean Highlands. Tulcan, centre of a rich farming area, is the northernmost of these. Further south is Chota, still inhabited by the descendants of former African slaves who retain some of their tribal customs (the city’s population being made up largely of Africans). Chota’s Indian market (particularly good for traditional art and weavings) is renowned throughout Ecuador. The peak of Mount Imbabura signals the approach to the valley of Otavalo (95km/60 miles from Quito), the town of the same name being famed for its craftwork and Indian market (which is at its biggest on Saturdays). Approaching Quito, one passes a granite monument which marks the Equator. South of Quito, the region of Latacunga and Ambato has much fine scenery, marked by an avenue of volcanoes. Two active ones are located within the Parque Nacional Sangay, a national park of outstanding beauty which has been listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The park is characterised by a variety of landscapes, ranging from rain forests to glaciers, as well as numerous indigenous animal species, such as the mountain tapir and the Andean condor. Located within Sangay park, the Tunguraha volcano (5016m/16,453ft) is popular with tourists, especially at night, since it became active again in 1999. West of Latacunga, the Parque Nacional Cotopaxi is Ecuador’s most visited national park. It includes the active Cotopaxi volcano which, at 5895m (19,345ft), is the world’s highest active volcano. All have refuges at the snow-line where intrepid walkers can make overnight stays. Visitors are however advised to be cautious when setting out on walking or trekking trips as robberies have been reported in certain areas; experienced mountain guides are available. Further south, the city of Cuenca was founded in 1577 and still contains many examples of Spanish colonial architecture. Contrasting with this, a vast cathedral has recently been built. The nearby ancient Inca settlement at Ingapirca, 50km (32 miles) north of Cuenca, is worth visiting. In the highlands of southern Ecuador, Loja is the last city of importance on the Pan-American Highway, being originally a trading station on the Spanish ‘gold road’. Not far from Loja, the Parque Nacional Podocarpus is, along with Ecuador’s other national parks, a popular destination for walking and climbing. The Coast GUAYAQUIL: Ecuador’s biggest city, Guayaquil is also the chief port and commercial centre. A good starting point for sightseeing is the Rotonda, the city’s most historic landmark, which faces the beautiful garden promenade of Paseo de las Colonias. Across the malecón are the Government Palace and city hall, while at the northern end one can find the ancient fortress of La Planchada. Other places of interest include the Church of Santo Domingo, the old residential section of Las Penas and the Municipal Museum. THE LITTORAL: This is a narrow coastal belt, 560km (350 miles) in length. The chief ports provide visitors with some of the best resorts for deep-sea fishing on the west coast. Particularly attractive are the towns of Playas Posoria and Salinas, while Esmeraldas, one of the country’s most important ports, is also known for its beautiful beaches. The relaxing island of Muisne is also becoming a popular destination. The region of Santo Domingo de los Colorados, situated some 90km (55 miles) west of Quito, is the domain of the Colorados Indians who still practise many of their ancient customs. The Oriente El Oriente is the term used by Ecuadorians to refer to the Amazon basin in eastern Ecuador. This is a primeval world of virgin forests and exotic flora and fauna, still mainly inhabited by Indians. In January 1999, the Ecuadorian President issued a decree blocking future oil exploration, mining and colonisation by oil companies of the Cuyabeno-Imuya and Yasuni national parks. These parks are home to thousands of indigenous people, including the Huaorani, the Tagaeri, the Taromenare, the Sionas and the Secoyas. In recent years, the region has experienced ongoing conflicts between oil companies seeking to develop the area and indigenous communities afraid that development will lead to the destruction of their ancestral homeland and loss of their traditional way of life. The principal towns of the area are El Puyo, Tena, Macas, Lago Agrio, Sucúa and Zamora. Tourist excursions are available along the rivers, which provide the principal method of transport. One of the main rivers in this region is the Napo which, like most of the rivers in the Oriente, is a tributary of the Amazon (which lies further east in Peru). Baños is worth visiting, taking its name from the numerous springs and pools of hot and cold mineral waters. It is also the gateway to the Amazon region, passing through the spectacular gorge of the River Pastaza. Galápagos Islands Situated about 1000km (625 miles) west of the Ecuadorian mainland, the islands are bleak, barren and rocky. Made famous by Charles Darwin’s scientific voyage in the ‘Beagle’ during the 19th century, the islands’ unique wildlife – which includes giant tortoises, lizards and iguanas – remains the most interesting feature for the modern-day visitor. Some 50 per cent of the islands’ species are found nowhere else in the world. The islands have been turned into a national park in an attempt to preserve their natural state, and in 1978 UNESCO declared the Galápagos to be ‘the universal natural heritage of humanity’. In 1998, the Government enacted a law for the ‘Special Regime for the Conservation and Sustainable Development of the Galápagos Province’, which states that the protection of the area is a state responsibility. Accommodation and travel can generally be arranged either inclusively from the visitor’s home country or through local tour operators once in Ecuador. It is advisable to shop around and take advice before booking as the quality of service and reliability can vary greatly. For further information contact the Galápagos Tour Operators Association (ASOGAL), Avenida de los Shyris 247 y Gaspar de Villarroel (tel: (2) 441 550; fax: (2) 436 625; e-mail: asogal@ecnet.ec). Accommodation is extremely limited and food is not cheap. There are a few small restaurants. Boat trips around the islands can be arranged locally. Sport & Activities Rainforest treks: Travellers wishing to explore the rainforest of the lower Amazon basin and its abundant plant and animal life should head to the Oriente region (see Resorts & Excursions section). It is probably best to do this as part of an organised tour, which can be booked with a number of local operators providing tailor-made itineraries and experienced guides. The presence of hundreds of waterways, many of which are tributaries of the great River Amazon, means that such tours invariably involve travelling by boat. Usually, these are large motorised canoes travelling up the main rivers (such as the Napo or the Aguarico), although trips on non-motorised boats along the smaller waterways are also available, which is a far better way to observe the wildlife. Several indigenous communities living in the region have preserved their traditional lifestyles and are actively engaged in resisting the ongoing attempts by oil companies to develop and exploit the Ecuadorian rainforest. Hiking: There are some good hiking trails in Cotopaxi National Park, one of them following the shores of Lago Limpiopungo, located at an altitude of 3800m (12,465ft). Climbing: Several tour operators based in Baños, Ecuador’s tourist mecca for adventure sports and trips to the rainforest, also offer climbing expeditions to the volcanoes. Experienced climbers may head to the Cotopaxi volcano which, at 5985m (19,345ft), is one of the world’s highest, best reached from Quito. Wildlife: Apart from the rainforest, Ecuador’s rich wildlife is best represented in the Galápagos Islands, whose most famous inhabitants are the giant Galápagos tortoises (weighing up to 272kg/600lb). Adventure tours around the islands are available, either in large cruise ships or in smaller ships and yachts (advance booking is essential). The amount of time visitors are allowed to stay on the islands is regulated by the Government. For further details on the Galápagos Islands, see the Resorts & Excursions section. Watersports: There are 2800km (1750 miles) of coastline along the mainland, with beach resorts offering various types of watersports. Good snorkelling is available via chartered boat trips around the Isla de la Plata (located in the Parque Nacional Machalilla, Ecuador’s only coastal national park). Fishing is particularly good off the western coast. Whitewater rafting is also popular in and around Baños. Scenic train journeys: Several of Ecuador’s railway routes, particularly those in the Andes, pass through spectacular mountain scenery, often at dramatic altitudes. The Ecuadorian custom of riding on the roof of the train makes the views even more breathtaking. One of the most famous routes, whose climax is the precipitous ‘Devil’s Nose’ passage, is from Riobamba down to the Pacific coast. Train schedules are fairly erratic and visitors should check locally prior to travelling. Social Profile Food & Drink: Best of the jungle fruits include chirimoya, with a delicious custard-like inside; mamey, which has a red, sweet, squash-like meat; and pepinos, a sweet white and purple striped cucumber-like fruit. Specialities include llapingachos (pancakes with mashed potato and cheese); shrimp or lobster ceviche; locro (stew of potatoes and cheese); humitas (flavoured sweetcorn tamale); and the national delicacy of baked guinea pig. Restaurants have waiter service and there are cafe-style bars. Ecuador has some of the best beer in South America. International drinks and whiskies are available, but expensive. An Ecuadorian speciality is a unique fruit juice called naranjilla – a taste somewhere between citrus and peach. Good Chilean wine is available, but expensive. The best local drink is canelazo, made from sugar cane, alcohol, fruit juice (naranjilla) and cinnamon. Alcohol cannot be sold after 0200. Nightlife: There is little nightlife except in Quito and Guayaquil, where there are excellent restaurants and other attractions. In smaller towns, social life takes place in the home and in private clubs. The cinema is the most popular form of entertainment. Shopping: Bargaining is acceptable in small shops and in markets, but prices are usually fixed in ‘tourist stores’. A few stores around the major hotels have fixed prices. In the Province of Azuay, the cities of Cuenca and Gualaceo offer a wide variety of handicrafts at ferias or special market days. The top attractions are the ferias of Otavalo, Ambato, Latacunga, Saquisili and Riobamba, most held once a week. They offer the visitor excellent bargains for Indian crafts and silver. Principal silver stores are in Quito. Special purchases include native woodcarvings, varnished and painted ornaments made of bread dough, Indian tiles, woollen and orlon rugs, blankets, baskets, leather goods, shigras (shoulder bags) and hand-loomed textiles, aboriginal art and native weapons. Shopping hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1300 and 1500-1900, Sat 1000-2000. Some shops open Sunday. Special Events: For a full list of special events, contact one of the Ecuadorian tourism authorities (see Contact Addresses section). The following is a selection of the major festivals and other special events celebrated annually in Ecuador: Feb Festival of Fruits and Flowers, Ambato. Feb/Mar Carnival (three-day national celebration). Apr Holy Week. May 24 Battle of Pichincha Day. May/Jun Corpus Christi (harvest festivals in mountain villages). Jun 24 Festival of John the Baptist, especially in Otavalo. Aug 10 Independence Day. Sep (first two weeks) Festival of Yamor (native masks, costumes and dances), Otavalo; (third week) Banana’s fair, Machala. Oct 9 International Fair, Guayaquil (celebration of town’s independence). Nov 2 All Souls’ Day (visits to cemeteries). Nov 3 Independence of Cuenca. Dec 6 Founding of Quito (bullfights, folklore exhibits and sporting events). Dec 24 Christmas Eve (costume pageants). Dec 31 New Year’s Eve. Note: Booking hotels during fiestas and festivals can be difficult. Visitors should book well in advance. Social Conventions: Casual wear is widely acceptable, but businesspeople are expected to dress smartly. Smart clothes are often required when visiting hotel dining rooms and better restaurants. Beachwear should only be worn on the beach and revealing clothes should not be worn in towns. Smoking is widely accepted. Photography: A tip may be requested if you wish to take someone’s photograph. Tipping: Ten per cent service charge is usually added to the bill in hotels and restaurants. Taxi drivers do not expect tips. Business Profile Economy: Ecuador’s economy rests on the twin pillars of oil and agriculture. Ecuador is the world’s largest exporter of bananas and also grows coffee, cocoa, palm oil and sugar in significant quantities. The timber industry yields valuable hardwoods; Ecuador is also a leading producer of balsawood. Fishing is another important sector: seafood exports expanded rapidly to the point where Ecuador is now the world’s second largest producer of shrimps. The industrial sector is dominated by oil – new discoveries tripled Ecuador’s known reserves during the 1990s – and in August 1997 work began to expand the trans-Ecuadorean pipeline. This will further increase exports which already account for the bulk of the country’s foreign exchange earnings. Gold, silver, copper and other metals are mined. The other main components of the industrial sector are food processing, chemicals and textiles. Ecuador pursued an essentially isolationist foreign and trade policy for many years until a broad programme of economic reform was finally instituted during the 1990s. In November 1992, Ecuador withdrew from OPEC and in August 1995 joined the World Trade Organisation. However, during the late 1990s, low oil and agricultural commodity prices, poor decision-making and other external factors triggered an economic crisis in 1999 (and a resultant political crisis), from which Ecuador is now recovering. Ecuador is a member of the main regional integration bodies: the Andean Union and ALADI (Asociación Latinoamericana de Integración). The USA is the largest single trading partner, accounting for over 40 per cent of Ecuadorian exports and supplying around one third of imports. Other significant trading partners are Japan, Colombia, Germany, Italy and Korea (Rep). Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Federación Nacional de Cámaras de Comercio del Ecuador. This chamber usually swaps location (between Quito and Guayaquil) every two years. Until March 2002 it was in Quito (see address below) and from March 2002 until March 2004 it will be in Guayaquil: Francisco de Orellana y Miguel Alciras, Ciudadela Kennedy Norte, Edificio La Cámaras, Guayaquil (tel: (4) 268 2771; fax: (4) 268 2725). From April 2005, it will move back to the Quito site: Amazonas y República, Edificio las Cámaras, Piso 6, Quito (tel: (2) 443 5863 or 244 3787; fax: (2) 243 5862; e-mail: ccq@ccq.org.ec; website: www.ccq.org.ec). Conferences/Conventions: For more information, contact Centro de Exposiciones Quito de la Federación Ecuatoriana de la Pequeña y Mediana Industria, Avenidas Amazonas no 34-332 y Av Atahualpa, Quito (tel: (2) 245 3129 or 245 4428; fax: (2) 449 846; e-mail: cexpaq@porta.net; website: www.capeipi.com). Climate Warm and subtropical. Weather varies within the country due to the Andes mountain range and coastal changes. Andean regions are cooler and it is especially cold at nights in the mountains. Rainfall is high in coastal and jungle areas. Required clothing: Lightweight cottons and linens, and rainwear in subtropical areas. Warmer clothes are needed in upland areas. History and Government History: Ecuador – including the ancient Kingdom of Quito, established by the Shiris – was populated by several mutually antagonistic tribes at the time of the Inca conquest in the mid-15th century. When the Spanish arrived from Peru in the 1530s, they found that while many of the inhabitants were hostile, others hailed them as liberators from Inca repression. In 1533, Sebastián de Balacázar, governor of San Miguel de Piura (the first Spanish town built in Ecuador), undertook the conquest of the Inca kingdom. A year later, San Francisco de Quito was founded in a region known as the Sierra, the central part of the country, where Indian slave labour worked large estates created by the Spanish. The other two regions were described as the Costa, the Pacific coastal plain based on the port of Guayaquil, and the Oriente, the inhospitable region between the Andes and the Amazon headwaters, where normally only missionaries ventured. The early years under the Spanish were marked by civil strife between rival families contesting power. In 1739, the viceroyalty of New Grenada was created and Quito fell under its jurisdiction until independence. In the following century, as the Department of the South, it joined New Grenada and Venezuela to form the Federation of Gran Colombia. Spanish rule lasted until the early 19th century – after suppressing several rebellions, the Spaniards were finally overthrown in 1822, by a force backed by Simon Bolivar, fresh from victory in Colombia. Soon afterwards, in 1828, the country declared war on Peru, whose armies had invaded Gran Colombia. A year later, a peace treaty was signed and Ecuador’s boundaries were permanently established. However, relations between Ecuador and Peru have been tense ever since. In 1830, Ecuador seceded from Gran Colombia and declared independence. Almost immediately, the rivalry between Quito and Guayaquil emerged, initially over trade and then over support for rival political organisations. This rivalry, between secular and religious interests, or between landowners and the merchant/banking classes, inevitably distilled to a conflict between the two cities. In the early 1920s, the army entered the political fray, claiming that only it could sustain national unity. The period between 1925 and 1948, when the military finally conceded that they did not have a legitimate political role, was one of the most turbulent in the country’s history, with continual changes of government, along with economic and administrative chaos. The inter-city rivalry persisted as before. After 1948, civilian administrations predominated, with power alternating between Liberals (from the Costa) and Conservatives (from the Sierra). The discovery of oil and the sharp increase in world oil prices in the late and mid 70s should have transformed Ecuador’s economic fortunes. However, the windfall was largely squandered and the poor domestic economic situation has led to regular outbreaks of civil and labour unrest. The Liberal/Conservative stranglehold on domestic politics was broken in 1988, when presidential elections brought Rodrigo Borja Cevallos of the Izquierda Democratica (Democratic Left) party to office, at the head of a coalition government. Borja was followed by Sixto Duran, of the newly formed right wing Republican Unity Party, in 1992. Political and economic turbulence plagued the Duran government from the first; a major corruption scandal in 1995 destroyed its remaining credibility. In May 1996, the election was won by the charismatic and eccentric Bucaram Ortiz of the Partido Roldosista Ecuatoriano (PRE). Bucaram’s bizarre personal behaviour and irresponsible attitude towards the conduct of government led Congress to impeach him in February 1997. Bucaram promptly fled to Panama. The new and most recent presidential election, which followed in the summer of 1998, brought the ex-major of Quito, Jamil Mahaud, of the centre-right Popular Democracy Party, to power. The party also took control of the National Congress, in a coalition government led by Eduardo Huerta. Mahaud managed to settle Ecuador’s principal foreign policy problem – the long-running border dispute with Peru, concerning a potentially mineral-rich region of Amazonian jungle, which had flared up into full-scale fighting on several occasions during the 1990s. However, he proved unable to arrest Ecuador’s deteriorating economic situation and after just 18 months in office, in January 2000, Mahaud was forced out under pressure from the military and the influential federation of ethnic Indian organisations, CONAIE. He was replaced by his deputy, Gustavo Noboa Bejarano. Noboa has concentrated on the economy. The Sucre has been abolished and replaced as the national currency by the US dollar, while in 2002, after protracted negotiations, international financial institutions agreed to support Ecuador’s shaky finances. Nonetheless, Noboa faces a hard fight to retain office at the presidential election due in the autumn of 2002. Government: The constitution was approved by national referendum in 1978, taking effect in 1979. The President, elected for a term of four years, holds executive power. He is assisted by the Vice President and a Cabinet, which includes 12 Ministers and a Secretary General. Legislative power is unicameral and resides in the House of Representatives, with 69 members; there are 12 national representatives and the remainder represent the provinces. Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.