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The Nile
Many tour operators offer Nile cruises, usually between Luxor and Aswan, and generally lasting around five days. It is also possible to get a cruise to Minia (a charming town with Roman, Greek and Pharaonic ruins, including the Beni Hassan archaeological area) and/or through to Cairo. Felucca trips offer the same route – with more basic facilities. For further information, see also the Sport & Activities section.
LUXOR: Once the ancient village of Thebes and powerhouse of upper Egypt, Luxor has grown into a large town, awash with hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops, with most of its economy coming from tourism.
A highlight is the Karnak Temple, covering an immense 100 acres (40.5 hectares). Of the three temple enclosures, the grandest is the Precinct of Amun, the main place of worship. The Great Hypostyle Hall is 6000 sq m (66,667 sq ft) and filled with immense stone pillars. The whole site has colossal statues, reliefs, obelisks and halls and, of course, the Avenue of the Sphinxes. There are nightly son et lumière shows.
Along the riverbank, Luxor Temple is guarded by a huge statue of Ramses II, and although a fraction of the area of Karnak, it also contains countless columns, statues and sphinxes. A pleasant walk north along the corniche brings you to the Luxor Museum where a small interesting collection of relics from the Theban Temples and Necropolis can be viewed. The recently opened Mummification Museum has exhibits of human, reptile and bird mummies, as well as explanations of how they are made.
On the West Bank of the Nile is the vast Theban Necropolis, containing some of the world’s finest tombs: the Valley of the Kings; Valley of the Queens; and Tombs of the Nobles. Highlights include the Tomb of Tutankhamun; newly opened Ramses II; and Tomb of Nefertari, reputed to be the country’s finest, which is newly restored and allows only 150 visitors a day for ten minutes. Nearby is Deir el-Bahri (Northern Monastery), a picturesque temple set amidst the amphitheatre of the Theban Hills.
Along the Nile, felucca owners tout for custom, and it is possible to hire one for a brief sunset cruise, to Banana Island, or even to organise a trip upriver to Aswan. Hot-air balloon trips are also available, offering the best views of Luxor.
Around Luxor Temple, shopping is dominated by tourist bazaars with enthusiastic salesmen. The more traditional souk, with household goods, spices and clothes, is on Sharia el-Birka. Cafes and stalls sell hot food, and there are rooftop terraces overlooking the river. A livestock market is held every Tuesday morning at El-Hebel, a village 4km (2.4 miles) from Luxor.
ASWAN: A beautiful winter resort, relaxing Aswan is the southernmost city in the country; the gateway to Africa, and steeped in Nubian culture. Although the sights are not the country’s finest, the town’s riverside location is picturesque and peaceful. It has a busy tourism scene although it is less aggressive than Luxor.
The corniche provides attractive riverside walks, and a stop-off for many cruise ships. In the evenings, floating restaurants provide a lively gathering place, and the world-famous folkloric dance troupe performs nightly during winter months at the Cultural Centre. Southernmost is the Old Cataract Hotel (famous as the location of the film ‘Death on the Nile’). Sharia el-Souq is the atmospheric market stretching for streets, with spices, food and clothes as well as predictable tourist souvenirs.
Elephantine Island is easily accessible by river taxi. Formerly Egypt’s frontier town, recent excavations of this ancient site have revealed temples and a fortress. Aswan Museum contains exhibits found in Nubia and Aswan. The Nilometre on the south of the island, dating back to Pharaonic times, was used to measure the height of the Nile.
Further south is the tiny Island of Plants, presented to Lord Horatio Kitchener in the 1890s in recognition of his military services. Importing exotic flowers and plants from India and Malaysia, he created a beautiful botanical garden, open daily to the public, attracting a wide variety of birds.
On the West Bank of the Nile lies the Monastery of St Simeon, which resembles a fortress. Nearby is the domed granite and sandstone Mausoleum of Aga Khan.
Beyond Aswan: Outside the city are the Aswan Dam, built by the British at the beginning of the century; and the Temple of Philae, on the Island of Philae. The Temple is one of Egypt’s most legendary attractions, and after being under threat from flooding from the High Dam, UNESCO moved it stone by stone to a higher point on the island.
Further afield is Abu Simbel, the magnificent Sun Temple of Ramses II, also rescued from flooding by UNESCO. Ramses had four gigantic statues of himself built in order to intimidate travellers entering Egypt from Africa, especially the Nubians. The road was closed to tourists in 1997 for security reasons, but reopened in 2000 – although not all public vehicles will take tourists.
Kom Ombo, 30km (18 miles) north of Aswan, is a largely Nubian settlement, known for its Temple of Haroeris and Sobek. Nearby is the Darow Camel Market, held every Tuesday morning and mainly frequented by tribesmen from the northern Sudanese deserts.
Edfu is famed for the largest and best preserved Pharaoronic Temple in Egypt, the Temple of Horus. It is a favoured starting/stopping point for felucca trips to Luxor.
Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.
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