Eritrea Overview Country Overview Eritrea stretches along the Red Sea, bordering Ethiopia, Djibouti and Sudan. The low-lying coastal area is very humid. The mountainous interior is largely cultivated. Eritrea’s capital, Asmara, was only a small cluster of villages at the beginning of the 19th century. In 1897, the Italian colonial government moved the administration from Massawa. Today, Italian architecture prevails in the city. The magnificent Cathedral (1922), built in the Lombardian style, is not far from a bustling market. The road from Asmara to Massawa, 105km (65 miles) long, is both spectacular and beautiful. It descends from 2438m (8000ft) to sea level, with hairpin bends on the escarpment, and magnificent views over the coastal desert strip. The road also passes the famous Orthodox Monastery of Debre Bizen. North of Massawa is the white sandy beach of Gergussum. It is a good place to sunbathe or swim. The Turkish and Egyptian colonial periods left their legacy in the form of numerous interesting buildings and sites in Agordet (Barka Province), including the tomb of Said Mustafa wad Hasan. Italian cuisine dominates but staple food includes kitcha, a thin bread made from wheat, and injera, a spongy pancake. General Information Area: 121,144 sq km (46,774 sq miles). Population: 3,719,000 (official estimate 1999). Population Density: 30.7 per sq km. Capital: Asmara. Population: 400,000 (1994). GEOGRAPHY: Eritrea stretches along the Red Sea for almost 1000km (625 miles). To the south and west it borders Ethiopia, to the southeast Djibouti and to the northwest Sudan. The low-lying coastal area is very humid. The mountainous interior is largely cultivated. Government: Independent State since 1993. Head of State and Government: President Isaias Afewerki since 1993. Language: Arabic and Tigrinya are the main business languages. Various dialects such as Afar, Bilien, Hedareb, Kunama, Nara, Saho and Tigre are also spoken. English is rapidly becoming the language of business and education, and Italian is also spoken. Religion: 50 per cent Ethiopian Orthodox and 50 per cent Muslim. Time: GMT + 3. Electricity: 110/220 volts AC; there are occasional power surges. Telephone IDD is available to Asmara, Massawa and Assab. Country code: 291. Outgoing international code: 00. Operator assistance may be required. All larger cities are connected via the internal system. Mobile telephone Currently there are no facilities to use mobile telephones in Eritrea. Fax These can be sent and received at the Telecommunications Office in Harnet Street (Asmara); some hotels also provide services. Internet The main ISPs are EWAN Technical Solutions and the Eritrean PTO working with USAID’s Leland project. There is Internet access in the main towns. Telegram International services are available in the office in Asmara. Post International post services have not been resumed with all countries. Delays are likely. Press The Eritrea Profile is published weekly in English. Hadas Eritrea is published three times a week in English, Arabic and Tigrinya. BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. BBC (website: www.co.uk/worldservice): MHz 17.89 15.42 9.630 6.005 Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov): MHz 15.58 11.98 6.035 0.909 Passport/Visa   Passport Required? Visa Required? Return Ticket Required? British Yes Yes 1 Australian Yes Yes 1 Canadian Yes Yes 1 USA Yes Yes 1 OtherEU Yes Yes 1 Japanese Yes Yes 1 PASSPORTS: Passport valid for a minimum of three months beyond intended departure date required by all. VISAS: Required by all except the following: (a) nationals of Kenya and Uganda; (b) transit passengers continuing their journey to a third country within six hours provided holding valid onward or return documentation and not leaving the airport transit lounge. Types of visas and cost: Tourist: £25 (single-entry only). Business: £40 (single-entry); £55 (multiple-entry for up to three months); £80 (multiple-entry for up to six months); £135 (multiple-entry for up to 12 months, only available once in Eritrea). Transit: £15. An additional fee of £5 is payable for express service visas. Validity: Single-entry business visas are valid for up to three months. Extensions are possible. Apply to the Foreign Ministry in Asmara. Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section. Application requirements: (a) Application form. (b) Valid passport. (c) One passport-size photo. (d) Fee. (e) Yellow fever certificate, if travelling from an infected area. (f) Stamped, self-addressed registered envelope for postal applications. (g) 1. For Tourist visas, a valid air return ticket and proof of travellers cheques of minimum US$40 per day required on application, or for Business visas, a company letter stating the purpose of the visit. Working days required: One to two. Money Currency: Nakfa (Nkfa) = 100 cents. Notes are in denominations of Nkfa100, 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1. Coins are in denominations of Nkfa100, 25, 5 and 1. Note: The IMF and the World Bank have recognised the circulation of Nakfa in both coin and paper note denominations. Note: * Values are given against the Euro rather than Sterling as accurate exchange rate against Sterling not available. Currency exchange: US Dollar bills are the most convenient form of exchange. Foreign currencies can be exchanged at the Commercial Bank of Eritrea in Asmara (which provides the best exchange rate), private currency exchange offices and major hotels. Credit & debit cards: MasterCard and Diners Club are accepted on a limited basis. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability. Travellers cheques: These are generally accepted. Currency restrictions: Import and export of local or foreign currency is unrestricted. Exchange rate indicators The following is included as a guide to the movements of the Nakfa against the Euro* and the US Dollar: Date Apr ’02 Aug ’02 Oct ’02 Jan ’03 €1.00= 11.91 13.85 13.80 15.08 $1.00= 13.55 14.13 14.08 14.33 Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1200 and 1400-1800, Sat 0800-1230. Duty Free The following goods may be imported into Eritrea without incurring customs duty: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 1l of alcoholic beverages. Public Holidays Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Mar 8 Women’s Day. May 24 Independence Day. Jun 20 Martyrs’ Day. Sep 1 Anniversary of the Start of the Armed Struggles. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Mar 8 Women’s Day. May 24 Independence Day. Jun 20 Martyrs’ Day. Sep 1 Anniversary of the Start of the Armed Struggles. Health   Special Precautions Certificate Required Yellow Fever Yes 1 Cholera 2 No Typhoid and Polio 3 N/A Malaria 4 N/A 1: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from travellers coming from infected areas. Travellers arriving from non-endemic zones should note that vaccination is strongly recommended for travel outside the urban areas, even if an outbreak of the disease has not been reported and they would normally not require a vaccination certificate to enter the country. 2: Following WHO guidelines issued in 1973, a cholera vaccination certificate is no longer a condition of entry to Eritrea. However, cholera is a serious risk in this country and precautions are essential. Up-to-date advice should be sought before deciding whether these precautions should include vaccination, as medical opinion is divided over its effectiveness. See the Health appendix for further information. 3: Typhoid is widespread, especially in rural areas and poliomyelitis is endemic. 4: Malaria risk, predominantly in the malignant falciparum form, exists throughout the year in all areas below 2000m (682ft). Highly chloroquine-resistant falciparum has been reported. There is no malaria risk in Asmara. Food & drink: All water should be regarded as being potentially contaminated. Water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should have first been boiled or otherwise sterilised. Milk is unpasteurised and should be boiled. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised, but make sure that it is reconstituted with pure water. Avoid dairy products which are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Pork, salad and mayonnaise may carry increased risk. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled. Other risks: Bilharzia (schistosomiasis) is present. Avoid swimming and paddling in fresh water. Swimming pools which are well-chlorinated and maintained are safe. Hepatitis A and E are widespread and hepatitis B is hyperendemic. Vaccinations against hepatitis B and tetanus are recommended. Meningococcal meningitis is a risk, particularly in savannah areas and during the dry season. Endemic foci of onchocerciasis (river blindness) exist. Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix. Health care: Time is needed to acclimatise to the high altitude and low oxygen level. Those who suffer from heart ailments or high blood pressure should consult a doctor before travelling. Medical services are adequate throughout the country: however, modern facilities are not always available and supplies can be irregular. Visitors should bring a supply of any necessary drugs and prescriptions. Chemists can be found in larger towns. The country has an extensive network of health workers. Regional and district clinics and the central hospital in Asmara deal with emergencies. Health insurance is strongly advised. Travel - International Note: Travellers should avoid border areas with Ethiopia, due to political friction. For further advice visitors should contact their local government travel advice department. AIR: Eritrea has no national airline. Other airlines operating to Eritrea include Egyptair (from Cairo), Saudi Arabian Airlines (from Jeddah), Yemenia (from Sanaa), Sudan Airways (from Khartoum) and Lufthansa (from Frankfurt). Flights from Europe and the USA can be booked through Ericommerce International Ltd, Robin House, 2A Iverson Road, London NW6 2HE, UK (tel: (020) 7372 7242; fax: (020) 7624 6716; e-mail: ericom2000@aol.com). Approximate flight times: From Asmara to London is 7 hours. International airports: Asmara (ASM) is 6km (4 miles) from the city. Buses and taxis are available to the city centre. Airport facilities include left luggage (0800-1200 and 1400-1700), bank/bureau de change (0300-1500 and during scheduled flights), post office (0800-1200, 1400-1700), bars, duty-free shop and restaurants (0300-1500 and for scheduled flights). Departure tax: US$12. SEA: There are two main ports, Massawa and Assab, both on the Red Sea, but there are very limited scheduled passenger services. Travel - Internal AIR: Internal flights operate between Asmara and Assab but are limited. Assab (ASA) is 15 km (9 miles) from Assab. Buses and taxis travel to the town (travel time – 15-30 minutes). RAIL: The only existing railway line between Ak’ordat, Asmara and the port of Massawa, has been non-operational since independence was declared. Work is currently underway to restore it. ROAD: The infrastructure suffered badly during the protracted fighting. Repairs and a modernisation programme are currently underway. Reasonable roads still connect all business centres and holiday resorts. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are recommended on all other roads and tracks. An extension of the existing road system is planned. Traffic drives on the right. Bus: Services connect all larger towns and cities. Taxi: These can be found in the capital and at the airport. Fares are higher at night (usually double) and should be negotiated in advance as taxis are not metered. Car hire: Cars can be booked through the Eritrean Tour Service (see Contact Addresses section). Documentation: An International Driving Permit is required. Accommodation The capital, Asmara, has several good hotels which can sometimes offer seminar rooms and small exhibition spaces. Similar standard hotels can be found in Massawa and Assab. It is advisable to book in advance. Meals are available in all hotels. There are also hotels and guest-houses in smaller towns; prices are, in general, slightly lower than those in the main centres. When making reservations, check for service charges and sales taxes. Hotel bills must be paid in hard currency. For further information, contact the Eritrean Tour Service (see Contact Addresses section). Introduction ASMARA: Eritrea’s capital, Asmara, was only a small cluster of villages at the beginning of the 19th century. In 1897, the Italian colonial government moved the administration there from Massawa. Today, Italian architecture prevails in the city. The magnificent Cathedral (1922), built in the Lombardian style, is not far from a bustling market. Fruit and vegetables, bric-a-brac, spices, used furniture, ceramics, handicrafts and clothes are sold on the stalls. There are a number of churches and mosques which can be visited. Marble from the Italian Carrara quarry was used to build the largest mosque, Khalufa el Rashidin. Gold and silver jewellery is on offer at the nearby market. Palms and colourful bougainvillaea line the main avenues. The National Avenue is the major thoroughfare of the city; an ideal place to meet people and enjoy the numerous cafes and bars. The Avenue is also the address for the Government Administrative Centre, the Asmara Theatre (built 1918), the Catholic Cathedral and the Town Hall. The former residence of the colonial rulers, the Ghibi or palace, is used today as the National Museum. The University and the Mai Jahjah Fountain are also interesting. ELSEWHERE: The road from Asmara to Massawa, 105km (65 miles), is both spectacular and beautiful. It descends from 2438m (8000ft) to sea level, with hairpin bends on the escarpment, and magnificent views over the coastal desert strip. It passes the famous Orthodox Monastery of Debre Bizen. Massawa was an important centre in ancient times and remains, to this day, the largest natural deep-water port on the Red Sea. If Asmara is an ‘Italian’ city, Massawa is ‘Turko-Egyptian’, reflecting the periods of Ottoman and Egyptian rule from the 16th century to the late 1800s. Dams connect the islands of Batsi and Twalet with the main part of the city. The port and old town of Batsi were damaged during the civil war but are still impressive. The Iman Hanbeli Mosque escaped damage. Batsi Island is a good area for restaurants, cafes and bars; visitors can take a small boat to Sheikh Said Island (also known as Isola Verde), a favourite picnic spot. Twalet has fine examples of Italian architecture. There is also a badly damaged Ghibi or palace. It was originally built in the 15th century, but has been much altered and restored since then. It was badly damaged in the civil war and is again in need of restoration. The Port Club has a restaurant, a museum, a small library and sporting facilities. North of Massawa is the white sandy beach of Gergussum. It is a good place to sunbathe or swim. From here, it is not far to Emberemi, famous for the mausoleums of Sheikh el Amin and Muhammad Ibn Ali. It is an important pilgrimage site. Nakfa in Satel province is famous as the main site and symbol of resistance during the war with Ethiopia. The nearby towns of Denden, Orota and Afabet still bear the scars of fighting although much rebuilding has been completed. Keren, in the Province of Senhit, is like a miniature Asmara. The Forto was built during the Turkish period. Also of interest are the religious sites of the Tomb of Said Abu Bakr el Mirgani and the Mariam de Arit. Debre Sina, near Elabered on the Asmara–Keren road, is also a noteworthy monastery. The modern city of Asseb in the southeasterly Province of Denkalia has many pleasant beaches. The Turkish and Egyptian colonial periods left numerous interesting buildings and sites in Akordat (Barka Province). Here is situated the tomb of Said Mustafa wad Hasan. Qohaito, Metera and Rora Habab are also important archaeological sites. Social Profile Food & Drink: Italian cuisine dominates in the restaurants of the larger cities. Massawa is renowned for its excellent seafood, especially prawns and lobster. Staple food includes kitcha, a thin bread made from wheat, and injera, a spongy pancake. Local specialities are often very spicy. Tea and espresso are drunk black with a lot of sugar. In some regions, coffee is served with ginger or black pepper and sugar. Fruit juices (banana, mango and papaya) are available. Shopping: Good buys are gold and silver jewellery (sold by weight), woodcarvings, leather items, spears, drums, carpets and wicker goods. In marketplaces, a certain amount of bargaining is expected, but prices at shops in towns are usually fixed. Shopping hours: Mon-Sat 0800-1300, 1430-2030 (regional variations occur). Special Events: The following is a list of events that occur annually in Eritrea: Feb Fenkil (a remembrance of the last days of the war fought to liberate the city of Massawa. Early Aug Eritrean Festival (exhibitions, musical shows and dances, a cultural event that lasts about ten days). Social Conventions: Handshaking is the normal form of greeting. Casual tourist wear is suitable for most places, but visitors should dress modestly. For business, a suit is most appropriate. Tea or coffee is offered frequently to visitors. Smoking is not popular with traditional or elderly Eritreans. Shoes should be taken off in churches and, particularly, in mosques. Tipping: Hotels and restaurants add a service charge, usually around ten per cent. Tipping is fairly common, in small amounts. Taxi drivers are not usually tipped. Business Profile Economy: The long-running Ethiopian civil war left Eritrea, which was until 1991 the northernmost province of Ethiopia, with its economy in a parlous condition. Since the split from Ethiopia in 1993, Eritrea has been engaged in a series of military campaigns with its neighbours, culminating in 1998 in a ruinous war with Ethiopia, and these have stunted its economic development. Agriculture sustains the bulk of the population with indigenous grains, maize, wheat and sorghum as the main crops. However, reconstruction has been hampered by the legacy of war (damage to land, mines, lack of equipment) and poor rainfall, and the country still needs substantial food aid. The small industrial economy produces glass, cement and textiles but is currently operating well below capacity. The Government has tried to develop fishing and mineral industries, particularly as there are thought to be significant oil and gas deposits within Eritrea’s territorial waters (which may in part explain its petulance over border disputes). Exploration rights have been granted by the Government to several major multinational oil companies to conduct surveys of the area. Eritrea has been granted admission to the ACP group of Third World countries, which receive preferential access to certain European Union markets, and it is now a member of the International Monetary Fund. In 1997, Eritrea introduced its own currency, the Nakfa, in place of the Ethiopian Birr; some have viewed this as a deliberate provocation as Nakfa is the location of a battle where Ethiopia suffered great losses at rebel hands. Business: Local businesspeople tend to speak English or Italian. A knowledge of French can also be useful. Business cards are not always exchanged. May-October is best for business visits. Office hours: Mon-Thurs 0700-1200, 1400-1800, Fri 0700-1130, 1400-1800. In other towns, hours may vary slightly. Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Eritrean National Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 856, Abiot Av 46, Asmara (tel: (1) 121 589 or 121 388 or 122 456; fax: (1) 120 138 or 181 013; e-mail: encc@eol.com.er). Climate Summer months (April-August) can be hot with temperatures reaching up to 40°C (100 ºC) on the western plateau. Although temperatures rarely drop below 18°C (64 ºF) along the coast, winters in the central and western plateau regions (December-February) can be freezing with dramatic temperature differences between day and night. The short rainy season is usually between March-April and a longer one from late June to the beginning of September. Required clothing: Lightweight and mediumweight clothing is recommended but warm clothes may be needed because the temperature drops at night. An umbrella and a raincoat are recommended during the rainy season. History and Government History: Eritrea contained the main ports of the Aksumite empire, which governed the region, including modern-day Ethiopia, between the fourth and sixth centuries AD. It was also a peripheral part of the Ethiopian kingdom but largely retained its independence before coming under Ottoman rule in the 16th century. Over the next 300 years, control of the territory was disputed between the Ottomans, Ethiopia, Egypt and Italy. In 1889, a treaty between Italy and King Menilek of Ethiopia recognised Italian possessions on the Red Sea coast, which were formally adopted as Italian colonies the following year. These later became essential staging posts for the Italian invasion of Ethiopia in 1896 and 1935. Eritrea then became one of the six provinces of Italian East Africa, until the Italians were expelled by the British in 1941. After the departure of the British, Eritrea was merged into Ethiopia in a federal arrangement brokered by the UN in 1952 and incorporated fully into Ethiopia ten years later. An Eritrean Liberation Front emerged in exile in 1958 and later evolved into the Eritrean People’s Liberation Front (EPLF). The EPLF led the fight against the Communist government of Haile Mengistu Mariam, which took control of Ethiopia from the Emperor Haile Selassi in 1974. After a decade of changing fortunes for both the Government and the EPLF, the guerrillas finally expelled government forces from Eritrea in early 1991. The Tigrayan People’s Liberation Front, which led the final assault that overthrew the Mengistu regime in 1991, was armed and trained by the EPLF, although relations between the two have not always been good. In 1992, the EPLF-controlled Provisional Government of Eritrea announced a referendum over the future status of the area. With 99.8 per cent support registered in favour of independence, at a UN-supervised referendum in April 1993, the EPLF made arrangements to move to full nationhood, which was declared the following month. The EPLF inaugurated a four-year transition period leading to a pluralistic political system and the establishment of a basic infrastructure to govern (state departments, legal system, banks and finance), as well as political parties to contest the eventual elections. The general secretary of the EPLF, Isaias Afewerki, became the President of the republic, and in February 1994, the EPLF reconstituted itself as the People’s Front for Democracy and Justice. The Government’s principal task was the reconstruction of the economy. But things have not run smoothly, even for Eritrea’s resourceful people. Eritrea also entered into costly shooting wars with both Yemen and Djibouti. But by far the most serious threat to long-term stability was the unexpected and catastrophic breakdown in relations with neighbouring Ethiopia. The two countries signed a number of economic and security agreements soon after independence and relations were good – a legacy of the historical affinity between the EPLF and the Tigrayans who dominate the Ethiopian government. However, fighting broke out between the two countries in May 1998, ostensibly over minor land disputes and border incursions each claimed against the other. Ethiopia was unhappy with Eritrea’s introduction of its own currency (the Nakfa) in 1997; Eritrea, for its part, voiced fears that its hard-won independence might be infringed upon by an expansionist Ethiopia. The fundamentals of the conflict often seemed opaque to outsiders – one Western observer described it as ‘two bald men fighting over a comb’ – which undoubtedly contributed to the repeated failure of mediation efforts. No less than ten separate initiatives failed during the two years of the conflict. Finally, after a two-month spell of heavy fighting, the UN managed to broker a settlement in June 2000. Not only did Eritrea come off the worst from the fighting but the war also has had serious consequences for the people of Eritrea, hundreds of thousands of whom were displaced and reliant on emergency humanitarian aid. In the aftermath of the war, domestic opposition grew sharply, to which the government responded with a fierce crackdown in late 2001. This has alienated many of the new government’s most important foreign backers, especially in Europe. Government: The new constitution, adopted in May 1997, allows for political pluralism under a presidential system of government. However, no elections have yet been held and the People’s Front for Democracy and Justice (PFDJ), the political arm of the Eritrean People’s Liberation Front, is the only authorised political party. At present, President Afewerki holds executive power in the interim; legislative authority is vested in the 104-member Hagerawi Baito (National Assembly), comprising 60 appointed members and 44 representatives of the PFDJ. Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.