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Spain
Overview
'Fiesta in the sun'
Mediterranean beaches, sangria in the sun and paella by the plateful. Southern Spain has long been a popular place, but tourists are increasingly turning to the fascinations of another Spain, far removed from the high-rise developments lining the Costa del Sol.
Spain is a treasure chest of unforgettable scenery. Separating Spain from France, the snow-capped Pyrenees, as well as breathtaking views, offer resorts like La Molina and Panticosa with plenty of opportunities for skiing. In the north, the winding rivers and lush, green forests of Galicia present a picture not usually associated with Spain, and in complete contrast to the Moorish influenced south, Galician culture traces its routes to a Celtic origin. Everywhere are reminders of Spain’s rich and varied past, from the Alhambra in Granada to Don Quixote’s windmills in La Mancha.
Old mixes with new in cities such as Toledo, Barcelona, Salamanca, and the capital Madrid, as celebrated museums, galleries and Baroque churches rub shoulders with blaring bars and thumping discos.
What will never change is the Spaniards’ passion for partying. Snack on tapas as you skip from bar to bar, before heading off to enjoy Spain’s infamous nightlife. Then revitalise the senses – Spain’s cultural heritage brims with flamenco, painting, opera, literature, sport, bullfighting and flamboyant, colourful fiestas.
Bargains abound amid intense airline competition, so there has never been a better time to visit Spain. Just soak up the atmosphere – you won’t be disappointed.
Leon Gray
General Information
Area: 504,782 sq km (194,897 sq miles).
Population: 39,465,702 (2000).
Population Density: 78.2 per sq km.
Capital: Madrid. Population: 5,091,336 (1998).
GEOGRAPHY: Spain shares the Iberian peninsula with Portugal and is bounded to the north by the Pyrenees, which separate Spain from France. The Balearic Islands (Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera), 193km (120 miles) southeast of Barcelona, and the Canary Islands off the west coast of Africa are part of Spain, as are the tiny enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla on the north African mainland. With the exception of Switzerland, mainland Spain is the highest and most mountainous country in Europe, with an average height of 610m (2000ft). The Pyrenees stretch roughly 400km (249 miles) from the Basque Country in the west to the Mediterranean Sea; at times the peaks rise to over 1524m (5000ft), the highest point being 3404m (11,169ft). The main physical feature of Spain is the vast central plateau, or Meseta, divided by several chains of sierras. The higher northern area includes Castille and León, the southern section comprises Castile/La Mancha and Extremadura. In the south the plateau drops abruptly at the Sierra Morena, beyond which lies the valley of Guadalquivir. Southeast of Granada is the Sierra Nevada, part of the Betic Cordillera, which runs parallel to the Mediterranean, rising to 3481m (11,420ft) and the highest point on the Spanish peninsula (the Pico del Teide on Tenerife in the Canaries is the highest peak in Spain). The Mediterranean coastal area reaches from the French frontier in the northeast down to the Straits of Gibraltar, the narrow strip of water linking the Mediterranean with the Atlantic and separating Spain from North Africa.
Government: Constitutional monarchy since 1978. Head of State: King Juan Carlos I since 1975. Head of Government: José María Aznar López since 1996.
Language: Spanish (Castillian), Catalan, Galician and Basque.
Religion: There is no official religion, but the majority of the population is Roman Catholic.
Time: Mainland Spain/Balearics: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
The Canary Islands: GMT (GMT + 1 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 or 225 volts AC, 50Hz. Generally, round two-pin plugs and screw-type lamp fittings are in use.
Communications:
Telephone
IDD is available. Country code: 34. Outgoing international code: 00. Emergency calls: 112. Area codes are incorporated within a nine digit number. The following are a selection of codes for major centres: Madrid 91, Alicante 96, Balearic Islands 971, Barcelona 93, Benidorm 96, Bilbao 94, Granada 958, Las Palmas 928, Málaga and Torremolinos 95, Santander 942, Seville 95, Tenerife 922 and Valencia 96.
Mobile telephone
GSM 900/1800 networks available. Roaming agreements exist with all major networks. Coverage is good throughout most of the country. Main network providers include Amena (website: www.amena.com), Movistar (website: www.movistar.tsm.es), Retevision (website: www.retevision.es) and Vodafone (website: www.vodafone.es).
Fax
Most post offices have services. Facilities are also generally available at 4- and 5-star hotels, especially those catering for the business and conference traveller.
Internet
There is a variety of Internet cafes in most urban areas. Main ISPs include Futurnet (website: www.futurnet.es) Terra (website: www.terra.es), Ibernet Telematica (website: www.ibernet.com), Ozú (website: www.ozu.es), Ya (website: www.ya.com) and Wanadoo (website: www.wanadoo.es).
Telegram
Facilities are available at main post offices. A 24-hour service is available in Madrid at Plaza de Cibeles; in Barcelona at Plaza Antonio Lopez; in Bilbao at 15 Calle Alameda Urquijo.
Post
There are efficient internal and international postal services to all countries. Airmail within Europe usually takes around five days. Poste Restante facilities are available at main post offices.
Press
Local newspapers published in English include the Costa Blanca News, Majorca Daily Bulletin and the English-language edition of Sur (weekly). Spanish dailies with large circulations include ABC, El País, El Mundo and La Marca (sports only).
BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change.
BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice):
Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov):
Passport/Visa
| | Passport Required? | Visa Required? | Return Ticket Required? | | British | Yes | No | Yes | | Australian | Yes | No/2 | Yes | | Canadian | Yes | No/2 | Yes | | USA | Yes | No/2 | Yes | | OtherEU | Yes/1 | No | Yes | | Japanese | Yes | No/2 | Yes |
Note: Spain is a signatory to the 1995 Schengen Agreement. For further details about passport/visa regulations within the Schengen area see the introductory section How to Use this Guide.
PASSPORTS: Passport valid for at least six months including 90 days beyond the planned stay required by all except the following;
1. nationals of Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, San Marino and Switzerland providing holding valid national ID cards for stays of up to 90 days.
VISAS: Required by all except the following:
(a) nationals of EU countries, Iceland, Norway and Switzerland regardless of purpose and/or length of stay;
(b) 2. other nationals referred to in the chart above for stays of up to 90 days;
(c) nationals of Andorra, Anguilla, Argentina, Bermuda, Bolivia, Brazil, Brunei, Bulgaria, Chile, Costa Rica, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, Estonia, Guatemala, Honduras, Hong Kong (SAR), Hungary, Israel, Korea (Rep), Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Macau (SAR), Malaysia, Malta, Mexico, Monaco, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Poland, Romania, San Marino, Singapore, Slovak Republic, Slovenia, Uruguay, Vatican City and Venezuela for stays of up to 90 days;
(d) transit passengers continuing their journey by the same or first connecting aircraft provided holding valid onward or return documentation and not leaving the airport (except nationals of Afghanistan, Albania, Angola, Bangladesh, Congo (Dem Rep), Cote d’Ivoire, Cuba, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Ghana, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, India, Iran, Iraq, Liberia, Mali, Nigeria, Pakistan, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Somalia, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Syria and Togo who always require a transit visa if not a permanent resident of Canada, EU countries, Norway, Switzerland or USA). As the preceding list is liable to change at short notice, visitors are advised to check transit regulations with the relevant Embassy or Consulate before travelling.
Types of visa and cost: A uniform type of visa, the Schengen visa, is issued for tourist, business and private visits. Short-stay: £15.50 for 1-30 days and £18.60 for 31-90 days (single-entry); £21.70 for up to 90 days (double- or multiple- entry). Transit: £6.20. Prices are subject to change and travellers are advised to check with the consulate before departure.
Note: Spouses and children of EU nationals (providing spouse’s passport and the original marriage or birth certificate is produced), and nationals of some other countries, receive their visas free of charge (enquire at Embassy for details).
Validity: Short-stay (single- and multiple-entry); valid for six months from date of issue for a stay of maximum 90 days per entry. Transit (single- and multiple-entry); valid for a maximum of five days per entry, including the day of arrival. Visas cannot be extended and a new application must be made each time.
Application to: In person (by appointment solicited in writing) to the appropriate consulate (or Consular section at Embassy) for where applicant lives. Postal applications are not accepted. Travellers visiting just one Schengen country should apply to the Consulate of that country; travellers visiting more than one Schengen country should apply to the Consulate of the country chosen as the main destination or the country they will enter first (if they have no main destination).
Note: Applicants are advised to check the opening hours for obtaining a visa at the relevant embassy or consular section well in advance. A limited number of applications will be dealt with by Spanish Embassies on a first come, first served basis.
Application requirements: (a) Passport valid for at least 90 days longer than requested visa with one full blank page. (b) Two completed application forms. (c) Two passport-size photos. (d) Fee payable by cash or postal order only. (e) Proof of purpose of visit (official letter of invitation; return tickets and hotel confirmation). (f) Confirmed accommodation. (g) Evidence of sufficient funds for stay (recent bank statement and photocopies). Business: (a)-(g) and, (h) Letter from employer; or accountant, solicitor, bank manager or Chamber of Commerce if self-employed. Students should submit proof of attendance. (i) Written invitation from company or organisation in Spain.
Note: (a) If the intended stay in Spain will exceed 90 days, registration with the local police is compulsory. (b) Evidence of medical insurance will be required if the intended visit includes entry into Germany. (c) Requirements for visas vary according to nationality, passport, travel document used and the purpose and duration of the trip. For more information, contact the Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section.
Working days required: Between two days and six weeks, depending on nationality. Applications from nationals of the following countries will take three weeks or longer, and they should not buy tickets prior to applying for and obtaining a visa: Afghanistan, Algeria, Bahrain, Burundi, Colombia, Congo (Dem Rep), Egypt, Indonesia, Iran, Iraq, Jordan, Korea (Dem Rep), Kuwait, Lebanon, Libya, Oman, Pakistan, Palestinian National Authority, Philippines, Qatar, Rwanda, Saudi Arabia, Somalia, Sudan, Surinam, Syria, UAE and Yemen. All applications for all nationalities should be lodged with the Embassy or Consulate several weeks before the intended date of travel.
Temporary residence: Refer enquiries to Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy).
Money
Single European currency (Euro): The Euro is now the official currency of 12 EU member states (including Spain). The first Euro coins and notes were introduced in January 2002; the Spanish Peseta was still in circulation until 28 February 2002, when it was completely replaced by the Euro. Euro (€) = 100 cents. Notes are in denominations of €500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5. Coins are in denominations of €2 and 1, and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1 cents.
Currency exchange: Money can be changed in any bank, and at most travel agencies, major hotels and airports. National Girobank Postcheques may be used to withdraw cash from UK accounts at main Spanish post offices.
Credit & debit cards: MasterCard, American Express, Diners Club and Visa are widely accepted, as well as Eurocheque cards. Check with your credit, or debit, card company for details of merchant acceptability and other facilities which may be available.
Travellers cheques: International travellers cheques are widely accepted. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in Euros, Pounds Sterling or US Dollars.
Currency restrictions: The import and export of local currency is unlimited, but the export of amounts exceeding €6010.12 must be declared. The import and export of foreign currency is unlimited, but should be declared if the quantity exceeds equivalent of €6010.12 per person per journey, to avoid difficulties on leaving Spain.
Exchange rate indicators
The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Euro against Sterling and the US Dollar:
| Date | May ’02 | Aug ’02 | Nov ’02 | Feb ’03 | | €1= | £0.63 | £0.64 | £0.63 | £0.68 | | €1= | $0.92 | $0.97 | $1.00 | $1.08 |
Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1400, Sat 0900-1300 (times may vary).
Duty Free
The following items may be imported into Spain without incurring customs duty by passengers aged 17 years or older arriving from countries outside the EU:
200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos 50 cigars or 250g tobacco; 1l of spirits if exceeding 22 per cent volume or 2l of alcoholic beverage not exceeding 22 per cent volume; 2l of wine; 250ml eau de toilette and 50g of perfume; 500g of coffee or 200g of coffee extract; 100g of tea or 40g of tea extract; gifts up to the value of approximately €37.
Abolition of duty-free goods within the EU: On 30 June 1999, the sale of duty-free alcohol and tobacco at airports and at sea was abolished in all 15 EU member states. Although there are now no limits imposed on importing tobacco and alcohol products from one EU country to another (with the exceptions of Denmark, Finland and Sweden, where limits are imposed), travellers should note that they may be required to prove at customs that the goods purchased are for personal use only.
Public Holidays
Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Jan 6 Epiphany*. Mar 19 San Jose*. Apr 17 Maundy Thursday*. Apr 18 Good Friday. May 1 Labour Day. Aug 15 Assumption. Oct 12 National Day. Nov 1 All Saints’ Day. Dec 6 Constitution Day. Dec 8 Immaculate Conception. Dec 25 Christmas Day. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Jan 6 Epiphany*. Mar 19 San Jose*. Apr 8 Maundy Thursday*. Apr 9 Good Friday. May 1 Labour Day. Aug 15 Assumption. Oct 12 National Day. Nov 1 All Saints’ Day. Dec 6 Constitution Day. Dec 8 Immaculate Conception. Dec 25 Christmas Day.
The following dates are also celebrated as regional public holidays (within these regions, there are further public holidays peculiar to the various towns and cities): Jan 29 Dia de la Convivencia (Ceuta). Feb 28 Andalucía Day. Mar 1 Balearic Isles Day. Apr 23 San Jorge (Aragon) and Day of the Region of Castilla y Leon. May 2 San Segundo (Castilla y Leon) and Fiesta of the Communidad de Madrid. May 17 Dia de las Letras Gallegas (Galicia). May 30 Canaries Day. May 31 Day of the Region of Castilla-La Mancha. Jun 9 Day of the Region of Murcia and Day of La Rioja. Sep 8 Asturias Day, Day of Extremadura and Nuestra la Virgen de la Victoria (Melilla). Sep 11 National Day of Catalonia. Sep 15 Nuestra Senora de la Bien Aparecida (Cantabria). Sep 17 Commemoration of the Spanish refounding of the City of Melilla. Dec 26 San Esteban (Balearic Isles and Catalonia).
Catalonia, Navarra, Pais Vasco (Basque Country) and Valenciana also celebrate Easter Monday (Apr 21 2003 and Apr 12 2004).
Note: *These holidays may be replaced by the autonomous communities with another date.
Health
| | Special Precautions | Certificate Required | | Yellow Fever | No | No | | Cholera | No | No | | Typhoid and Polio | No | N/A | | Malaria | No | N/A |
Other risks: Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix.
Health care: There is a reciprocal health agreement with the UK. Medical treatment provided by state scheme doctors at state scheme hospitals and health centres (ambulatorios) is free to UK citizens if in possession of form E111. Health insurance is required for private medical care. Prescribed medicines and dental treatment must be paid for by all visitors.
Travel - International
Note: For information on travel to and within the Canary Islands and the Balearic Islands see the respective sections.
AIR: Spain’s national airline is IBERIA (IB). Many airlines operate to Spain, including an increasing number of low-cost airlines from the UK.
Approximate flight times: From Barcelona to London is 2 hours; from Ibiza is 2 hours 20 minutes; from Madrid is 2 hours 15 minutes and from Málaga is 2 hours 40 minutes. From Madrid to Los Angeles is 13 hours; to New York is 7 hours 25 minutes; to Sydney is 30 hours.
International airports: Spain boasts over 30 international airports. Information on the major airports follows; information on any of the others can be obtained from AENA (Aeropuertos Espanoles y Navegación Aérea) Calle Arturo Soria 109, Madrid 28043 (tel: (91) 321 1000; fax: (91) 321 1440; website: www.aena.es) which is the organisation responsible for running all of the Spanish airports.
Madrid (MAD) (Barajas) is 13km (8 miles) northeast of the city. Coach service departs to the city around every ten minutes (0445-0200) and underground services run every five minutes (0630-0130). Taxi service is available. Airport facilities include restaurants and bars, bank, several car hire offices, hotel reservation and tourist information desks, and outgoing duty-free shop.
Barcelona (BCN) (del Prat) is 13km (8 miles) southwest of the city. Bus service to the city departs Mon-Fri every 15 minutes, Sat every 30 mins and Sun every 20 mins (0600-2400). Rail service is every 30 minutes (0613-2340). Taxi service to the city is available. Airport facilities include a bank, restaurant, bar, several car hire companies, hotel reservation and tourist information desks and duty-free shops.
Alicante (ALC) (Altet) is 12km (7 miles) southwest of the city. Bus service runs to the city (0700-2335). A taxi service is available to the city. There is a taxi connection between Alicante and Valencia Airport. Airport facilities include a duty-free shop, bank, bureau de change, car hire, tourist information and restaurant.
Bilbao (BIO) (Sondika) is 11km (7 miles) north of the city. A new airport terminal, control tower and other improvements were completed late November 2000. Bus, taxi and rail services to the city are available. Airport facilities include a restaurant, duty-free shop, tourist information desk and car hire.
Málaga (AGP) is 11km (7 miles) southwest of the city. Buses run every 30 minutes. Train service runs every 30 minutes. Taxi service to the city is available. Airport facilities include duty-free shop, bank/bureau de change, restaurant and car hire.
Santiago de Compostela (SCQ) is 10km (6 miles) northeast of the city. Buses and taxis are available to the city centre. Airport facilities include bar, banks, car hire and shops.
Seville (SVQ) is 12km (7 miles) from the city. Taxis and buses are available to the city centre.
Valencia (VLC) (Manises) is 10km (6 miles) west of the city. A rail service, taxis and buses (0600-2020, every 80 minutes) are available to the city centre. Airport facilities include several car hire firms, bank/bureau de change, restaurant, bar and duty-free shop.
Departure tax: None.
SEA: Brittany Ferries (tel: 08703 665 333; website: www.brittany-ferries.com) operates a service to Santander (on the north coast) from Plymouth (travel time – 22 hours). P&O European Ferries (tel: 0870 242 4999; website: www.poportsmouth.com) operates a twice-weekly service from Portsmouth to Bilbao (travel time – 36 hours).
RAIL: There are direct trains between Madrid–Paris and Madrid–Lisbon, as well as Barcelona–Paris, Barcelona–Zürich or Milan and Barcelona–Geneva. These services are called Talgo, Estrella or Train-Hotel. On other international services to and from Spain, a change of train is necessary. However, work on the AVE (high-velocity train) route between Madrid and Barcelona and is expected to be completed in 2006, after which the French border connection is expected to be fully operational in 2010 and it will be possible to connect with the French TGV (high-velocity route) and the rest of the high-velocity routes in Europe. Motorail services run between Paris and Madrid. For more information, contact the Spanish Rail service (tel: 0207 629 4543; fax: 0207 409 0379; website: www.spanishrail.co.uk ). Travelling from the UK, the quickest way is to travel by Eurostar through the Channel Tunnel to Paris (travel time – three hours) and, from there, to Spain. For further information and reservations contact Eurostar (tel: (0870) 6000 792 (travel agents) or (08705 186 186 (public; within the UK) or (+44 1233) 617 575 (public; outside the UK only); website: www.eurostar.com); or Rail Europe (tel: (08705) 848 848). Travel agents can obtain refunds for unused tickets from Eurostar For Agents, Second Floor, Kent House, 81 Station Road, Ashford, Kent TN23 1PD, UK. Complaints and comments may be sent to Eurostar Customer Relations, Eurostar House, Waterloo Station, London SE1 8SE, UK (tel: (020) 7928 5163; e-mail: new.comments@eurostar.co.uk).
ROAD: The main route from the UK is via France. The main motorways to Spain from France are via Bordeaux or Toulouse to Bilbao (northern Spain) and via Marseille or Toulouse to Barcelona (eastern Spain). A number of coach operators offer services to Spain. In the UK Eurolines, departing from Victoria Coach Station in London, serves more than 20 destinations in Spain. For further information, contact Eurolines (4 Cardiff Road, Luton, Bedfordshire, L41 1PP; tel: (08705) 143 219; fax: (01582) 400 694; website: www.eurolines.com or www.gobycoach.com). For information on documentation and traffic regulations, see Travel – Internal section.
Travel - Internal
AIR: Domestic flights are run by IBERIA (IB; website: www.iberia.es), Spanair (website: www.spanair.com), Binter (website: www.bintercanarias.es) and Air Europa (website: www.air-europa.com).
Scheduled flights connect all main towns as well as to the Balearic and Canary Islands and enclaves in North Africa. Air taxis are available at most airports. Reservations should be made well in advance.
SEA: There are regular hydrofoil and car and passenger ferry sailings from Algeciras to Tangier and Ceuta (North African enclave); Málaga and Almeria to Melilla (North African enclave); Barcelona, Valencia and Alicante to the Balearic Islands; and Cádiz to the Canary Islands. There are also inter-island services, including a catamaran service linking Barcelona and Palma de Mallorca, which takes 3 hours and runs twice a day. For further information, contact Trasmediterránea (tel: (91) 423 8500; fax: (91) 423 8555; website: www.trasmediterranea.es) or their representative in the UK: Southern Ferries (tel: 020 7491 4968; fax: 020 7491 3502).
RAIL: The state-owned company RENFE (website: www.renfe.es) operates a railway network connecting all the regions on the Iberian peninsula. It is mainly a radial network, with connections between Madrid and all the major cities. There are also some transversal services connecting the northwest coast with the Mediterranean coast, as well as services from the French border down the Mediterranean coast. Principal trains are air-conditioned, and many have restaurant or buffet service. Reservations for passenger services in Spain may be made in the UK through Ultima Travel (tel: (0151) 339 6171; fax: (0151) 339 9199); European Rail Travel (tel: (020) 7387 0444; fax: (020 7387 0888) and Freedom Rail (tel: (01252) 728506; fax: (01252) 728504).
Discount Rail Travel: The Spanish rail system is one of the cheapest in Europe and various discounts are available. Travellers under 26 can purchase a RENFE Tarjeta Explorerail, which allows unlimited travel on all but some regionales and fast trains. It can be bought in Spain, or in the UK from selected travel agents, and is available for 7, 15 and 30-day periods. Travellers can also enjoy savings by using any one of the European passes available, such as the Euro Domino Freedom Pass, which enables holders to make flexible travel arrangements. The pass is available in 19 European countries, but must be bought in the country of residence for which a valid passport or other form of ID has to be shown. In the UK, this pass is available from Rail Europe 179 Picadilly, London, W1, UK (tel: (0870) 584 8848; website: www.raileurope.co.uk). The tickets are valid for 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8 days within one month. Also available from Rail Europe, the Inter-Rail Pass (website: www.inter-rail.co.uk) allows up to 50 per cent reductions for 2nd class rail travel in 28 countries; the pass is now also available for those aged over 26. The Rail Senior Plus card entitles senior citizens to 30 per cent discount on rail travel into and out of Spain even during peak hours. This discount does not apply when only travelling internally. The card is available from most British Rail stations.
Note: Seat reservations are required on all intercity trains. This ruling applies to the passes and cards mentioned above.
High-Speed Trains: The Ave service averages 300kph and connects Madrid and Seville in 2 hours 15 minutes, with 12 services each way via Córdoba. Some services also stop at Ciudad Real and Puerto Llano (La Mancha). The stretch from Madrid to Lleida was finished at the end of 2002; Madrid to Barcelona in 2006; and the high-speed border connection with France in 2010. Also in 2010, the stretches from Cordoba to Malaga, Madrid to Valencia and Madrid to Valladolid should be ready. The Talgo 200 connects Madrid and Malaga thrice daily in 4 hours 35 minutes. Holders of most of the cards and passes mentioned above qualify for discounts, albeit less substantial than the rates quoted above.
Tourist Trains: The Transcantábrico and Andalus Express offer a pleasant way of discovering their respective regions. There are also a number of privately-run narrow-gauge railways in Spain, located mainly in the north of Spain as well as the Mediterranean coast and the Balearic Islands, which run at a leisurely pace through picturesque scenery. For more information on tourist trains, contact the Spanish National Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section).
ROAD: There are more than 150,000km (95,000 miles) of roads. Motorways are well-maintained and connect Spain north–south. Tolls are in operation on some sections and have to be paid in Pesetas. Trunk roads between major cities are generally fast and well-maintained. Rural roads are of differing quality. Bus: There are bus lines which are efficient and cheap, operating between cities and towns. Departures are generally from a central terminal at which the operators will have individual booths selling tickets. Most places have a bus link of some kind, even the more remote villages. Car hire: All major car hire companies are represented in major cities. Motorcycles: No person under 18 may hire or ride a vehicle over 75cc. Crash helmets must be worn. Regulations: Traffic drives on the right. Side lights must be used at night in built-up areas. Spare bulbs and red hazard triangles must be kept in all vehicles. Traffic lights: two red lights mean ‘No Entry’. Parking laws are rigorously enforced. The speed limit for motorways is 120kph (80mph) in general, but for buses and lorries the limit is 100kph (60mph); in built-up areas the limit is 50kph (30mph); for other roads it is 90kph (56mph). Documentation: Most foreign licences including EU, US and Canadian are accepted. Third Party insurance is required; a Green Card is mandatory if bringing your own car (available from insurance company).
URBAN: Traffic in Spanish cities is normally heavy, and urban driving takes some time to adjust to. City public transport facilities are generally good. Barcelona, Valencia, Bilbao and Madrid have metros as well as buses. Pre-purchase multi-journey tickets are sold. Other towns and resorts are well served by local buses. Metered taxis are available in most major cities and a two to three per cent tip is customary.
TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times (in hours and minutes) from Madrid to other major cities and towns in Spain.
| Air | Road | Rail | | Barcelona | 1.00 | 8.00 | 8.00 | | Bilbao | 0.50 | 5.00 | 6.00 | | Canary Is. | 2.30 | - | - | | Málaga | 1.00 | 5.00 | 7.00 | | Mallorca | 1.00 | - | - | | Palma | 1.10 | 6.00* | 5.00* | | Santander | 0.50 | 5.00 | 6.00 | | Seville | 0.55 | 6.00 | 7.00 | | Valencia | 0.50 | 5.00 | 4.00 |
Note: *Plus 9 hours by boat (3 hours by catamaran).
Accommodation
HOTELS & HOSTELS: A variety of hotel-type accommodation is available including apartment-hotels, hotel-residencias and motels. The term residencia denotes an establishment where dining-room facilities are not provided, although there must be provisions for the serving of breakfast and a cafeteria. Further information on accommodation in Barcelona and Madrid can be obtained free of charge from ww.barcelona-on-line.com and www.madrid-on-lie.com. Grading: Most accommodation in Spain is provided in hotels, classified from 1 to 5 stars (the few exceptions have a Gran Lujo, Grande De Luxe category); or hostels or pensiones, classified from 1 to 3 stars. The following is an outline of the facilities available in the hotel and hostel categories.
5-star hotels: Air conditioning in all public rooms and bedrooms, central heating, two or more lifts, lounges, bar, garage (within towns), hairdressers, all bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms and telephone, some suites with sitting rooms, and laundry and ironing service. 4-star hotels: Air conditioning in every room, unless climatic conditions require central heating or cooling only, a minimum of two hotel lounges, 75 per cent of the bedrooms with en-suite bathroom and the rest with shower, washbasin, WC and hot and cold running water, laundry and ironing service, telephone in every room, garage parking (in towns), lift and bar. 3-star hotels: Permanently installed heating or air-conditioning according to climate, lounge, lift, bar, 50 per cent of the bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms, 50 per cent with shower, washbasin, WC and hot and cold running water, laundry and ironing service, telephone in every room. 2-star hotels: Permanently installed heating or air conditioning according to climate, lounge, lift in buildings of two or more storeys, bar, 15 per cent of rooms with en-suite bathrooms, 45 per cent with shower, washbasin and WC and the rest with shower, washbasin and hot and cold running water, one common bathroom to every six rooms, laundry and ironing service, telephone in every room. 1-star hotels: Permanently installed heating, lift in buildings of more than four storeys, lounge, 25 per cent of bedrooms with shower, washbasin and WC, 25 per cent with shower and washbasin, the rest have washbasin and hot and cold running water, one common bathroom every seven rooms, laundry and ironing service, telephone on every floor.
3-star hostels: Permanently installed heating, lift in buildings of more than four storeys, lounge, five per cent of bedrooms with en-suite bathroom, ten per cent with shower, washbasin and WC, 85 per cent with shower and washbasin and hot and cold running water, one common bathroom to every eight rooms, laundry and ironing service, telephone in every room. 2-star hostels: Permanently installed heating, lift in buildings of five storeys or more, lounge or comfortable lobby, one common bathroom to every ten rooms, all bedrooms with washbasin and hot and cold water, general telephone. 1-star hostels: All rooms with washbasins and cold running water; one bathroom for every 12 rooms; general telephone.
It is always advisable to book accommodation well in advance, particularly during festivals or at popular resorts on the coast from late spring to October. Reservations may be made by writing direct to the hotels, lists of which may be obtained from the Spanish National Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section), or through travel agents or certain hotel booking services. Further information may be obtainable from the Spanish Hotel Federation (Federación Espanola de Hoteles) Calle Orense 32, 28020 Madrid (tel: (91) 556 7112; fax: (91) 556 7361; e-mail: federahoteles@fehoteles.com; website: www.fehotels.com). Letters to 5-, 4- or 3-star hotels may be written in English, but it is advisable to write in Spanish to lower categories.
GOVERNMENT LODGES: A chain of lodging places has been set up by the Ministry of Tourism in places of special interest or remote locations. These include attractive modern buildings and ancient monuments of historic interest, such as monasteries, convents, old palaces and castles. Standards are uniformly high, but not at the expense of individual charm and character. Below is a brief description of each type of lodging:
PARADORES: (National Tourist InnsParadores are hotels with all modern amenities including rooms with private bathroom, hot and cold running water, central heating, telephone in every room, public sitting rooms, garages and complementary services. Advance booking is advised. For further information, contact Paradores de Turismo, Calle Requena 3, Madrid 28013 (tel: (91) 516 6666 (25 lines); fax: (91) 516 6657/8; e-mail: info@parador.es; website: www.parador.es). Alternatively, contact the UK representative, Keytel International, 402 Edgware Road, London W2 1ED (tel: (020) 7616 0300; fax: (020) 7616 0317; e-mail: paradors@keytel.co.uk).
HOSTERIAS: These are traditional restaurants, decorated in the style of the region in which they are situated and serving excellent meals.
GUEST-HOUSES: Pensiones are common throughout Spain and vary in quality from austere to relatively luxurious. They are usually run by the family on the premises and provide bed and board only.
CAMPING/CARAVANNING: There are around 350 campsites throughout the country, again covering a wide quality and price range. Permission from the local police and landowner is essential for off-site camping and there may be no more than three tents/caravans or ten campers in any one place. Regulations demand that off-site camping is in isolated areas only. For further information, contact ANCE (Federación Espanola de Empresarios de Cámpings y Ciudades de Vacaciones), San Bernardo 97-99, 28015 Madrid (tel: (91) 448 1234; fax: (91) 448 1267; e-mail: fedcamping@hotmail.com).
YOUTH HOSTELS: The Spanish Youth Hostel Network (REAJ) (website: www.reaj.com; e-mail: info@reaj.com) is the representative in Spain on the International Youth Hostel Federation and there are currently over 200 registered youth hostels throughout the whole of Spain. Most must be booked in Spain, but a couple can be booked from the UK. For further information, contact the REAJ central booking network in Barcelona, Turisme Juvenil de Catalunya, C/Rocafort 116-122, 08015 Barcelona (tel: (934) 838 363; fax: (934) 838 347); or in Madrid, Direccion General de Juventud, C/Gran Via 10, 28013 Madrid (tel: (91) 720 0000 ; fax: (91) 720 1198), there is a booking and cancellation charge. The YHA international booking office in England (tel: (01629) 592 709; website: www.hostelbooking.com) can offer further advice if required.
Introduction
Spain, one of the largest countries in Europe, occupies four-fifths of the Iberian Peninsula. A land of extraordinary geographical and cultural diversity, it has much to offer the tourist. While the Mediterranean beach resorts on the Costa Brava, Costa Blanca and Costa del Sol continue to attract sunseekers, the north coast is gradually gaining in popularity. But there is a great deal more to Spain than the beaches. The terrain is amazingly diverse with a huge variety of landscapes: deciduous and coniferous forests, arid plains, salt marshes, rocky bays and coves, peaks, verdant river valleys and mountain streams.
One of the most pleasurable ways to discover Spain’s natural beauty and abundant wildlife is to visit one of the National Parks. Walks, hiking trails and jeep excursions enable visitors to explore marshes and wetlands, coastal dunes, isolated mountain peaks and Atlantic beaches. At certain times of the year the skies are filled with migrating birds heading for North Africa and the parks are also the habitat of a wealth of indigenous flora and fauna. Special mention should be made of rare and endangered species like the royal eagle, the capercaillie (woodcock), and the Pyrenean mountain goat. The major national parks in mainland Spain are: Coto de Doñana (provinces of Seville and Huelva), Tablas de Daimiel (La Mancha), Ordesa (Huesca Pyrenees), Aigües Tortes (Lleida) and Montaña de Covadonga (Picos de Europa).
Over the centuries Spain’s indigenous and conquering peoples have left an indelible legacy. Cromlechs and cave paintings from the prehistoric period, temples and aqueducts from the Roman occupation, Romanesque churches, Moorish baths, mosques and fortresses, medieval cathedrals and castles, Renaissance and Baroque palaces, the modernist architecture of Antoni Gaudí and his contemporaries, as well as present-day masterpieces like the Guggenheim museum in Bilbao and the City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia.
For the purposes of this section, Spain has been divided into eight regions, which do not necessarily reflect political or cultural boundaries: Madrid, Andalucia, Ceuta & Melilla, Castile/La Mancha & Extremadura, Castile/León & La Rioja, The Northern Region, Navarre & Aragon, Valencia & Murcia and Catalonia.
Information on the Balearic Islands and the Canary Islands, both integral parts of Spain, are dealt with separately.
Madrid
The Spanish capital is a vibrant, atmospheric city, short on famous monuments but rich in cultural sights. Pride of place belongs to the city’s three superb art museums. The Prado has one of the most remarkable art collections in the world, with works by major Spanish and European masters from the Renaissance onwards. The Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia is devoted to 20th-century Spanish art with representative works by Miró, Dalí, Juan Gris, and above all by the Cubists including Picasso. The most famous work on show is his masterpiece from the Civil War period, Guernica. The Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza is one of the most important private collections of western painting in the world, with more than 800 paintings from the Italian Renaissance to the 20th-century avant garde.
The Royal Palace dates from the mid-18th century. There are more than 20 rooms open to the public, exhibiting priceless tapestries, paintings, carpets, clocks, furniture, silverware and porcelain. The armoury has one of the most valuable collections in Europe, mainly from the 16th century. Madrid’s most historic square, the Plaza Mayor, is enclosed by arcades sheltering a variety of craft shops, restaurants and tapas bars. It was completed in 1617 during the reign of Philip III. The popular centre of Madrid is the famous square, the Puerta del Sol, the main shopping district and hub of the city’s nightlife.
Madrid’s most accessible green space is the Retiro Park. A former royal retreat, its attractions include a boating lake and summer concerts. The Botanical Gardens, a short walk from the Prado, are worth a visit. The Casa de Campo west of the city centre is a huge open space with a swimming pool, tennis courts, a jogging track and a zoo with aquarium. On the edge of Caso de Campo is the Parque de Atracciones, a large amusement park. Southeast of the city is the Parque Biológico, a new theme park on bio-diversity with pavilions recreating a variety of ecosystems. Warner Brothers opened an ambitious 250-hectare theme park in San Martín de la Vega in April 2002. Many visitors to the city take the opportunity to see Real Madrid, one of the world’s most successful football clubs, at the Bernabéu Stadium.
Excursions: There are numerous places of interest within easy reach of the city. The Monastery of San Lorenzo del Escorial (49km, 30 miles) was commissioned by Philip II as a mausoleum for Spanish rulers. The highlights are the art museum, with works by Rubens, Titian, Veronese and Tintoretto, the palace, the basilica and the library. Approximately 9km (6 miles) from the Escorial is the Valle de los Caídos (Valley of the Fallen), a huge crypt cut into the mountainside surmounted by a stone cross of 152m (500ft). The dictator, General Franco, conceived this dramatic monument as a tribute to those on the Fascist side who died in the Civil War. Franco himself is buried here. Alcalá de Henares, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the birthplace of the writer Miguel de Cervantes and the English queen, Catherine of Aragon. The main point of interest is the university, founded in the 16th century by Cardinal Cisneros. Other attractions include the 17th-century convent of San Bernardo and the oldest surviving public theatre in Europe – as important to Spain as Shakespeare’s Globe is to England. Aranjuez is famous for its gardens, an 18th-century Summer Palace, built by the Spanish Bourbons and Charles IV’s enormously expensive folly, the Casita del Labrador, on the banks of the River Tagus. Aranjuez is known for strawberries and asparagus. The Strawberry Train (Tren de la Fresa), complete with steam engine and wooden carriages, operates between Madrid and Aranjuez between mid-April and July and September to mid-October. Chinchón is an attractive little town with an atmospheric main square, Plaza Mayor, still used for bullfights during the fiesta (August) and for a passion play at Easter. The mountains of the Sierra de Guadarrama are easily accessible from Madrid and are an important centre for skiing and winter sports. Puerto de Navacerrada and Valdesquí are the main resorts.
Andalucia, Ceuta & Melilla
Andalucia is a mountainous region in the far south of Spain, rich in minerals and an important centre for the production of olives, grapes, oranges and lemons. Andalucia (Al-Andalus) was the last stronghold of the Moors who first arrived here from North Africa early in the eighth century and were finally expelled in 1492. The Arab architectural legacy is an important reason for visiting the region, especially the three great cities of Granada, Córdoba and Seville.
SEVILLE (SEVILLA): The regional capital is Seville, one of the largest cities in Spain, bearing numerous traces of the 500 years of Moorish occupation. Seville is the romantic heart of the country, the city of Carmen and Don Juan; its cathedral is the largest Gothic building in the world and has a superb collection of art and period stonework. Christopher Columbus is buried here. The cathedral bell tower, known as the Giralda from its crowning weather vane, was originally a minaret and observatory. The climb is worth the effort for the commanding views. Of great importance is the Alcázar, the palace-fortress of the Arab kings and one of the finest examples of Mudéjar (Moorish) architecture, mostly dating from after the Christian re-conquest. Seville’s other sights include the Alcázar gardens, the evocative neighbourhood of Santa Cruz with its white-washed houses and tiled patios, and the Torre de Oro, part of the Arab fortifications and later said to have been covered with gold leaf imported from the Americas. Holy Week in Seville embodies the religious fervour of the Spanish and is one of the most interesting festivals in the country. Early booking for accommodation at festival time is essential. Holy Week is followed closely by the famous April Fair, during which couples parade the fairground mounted on fine Andalucian horses, dressed in the traditional flamenco costume. Drinking, eating, song and dance are the order of the day for the whole week and the fairground with its coloured lanterns and casetas bordering the streets is a continuous movement of colour.
CÓRDOBA: Founded by the Romans, Córdoba’s heyday was during the early Moorish period when it was reputed to be the most splendid city in Europe. The Great Mosque built between 785 and 1002 is the main tourist attraction. Highlights include the Great Hall, characterised by delicately carved horseshoe arches of alternating white stone and red brick, the Patio de Los Naranjas, the Ablutions Courtyard still shaded by orange trees and cooled by fountains, and the Mihrab, (prayer niche). In the 16th century the mosque was transformed into a Christian church with the building of a Renaissance Choir. Other reminders of Cordoba’s history are the old Jewish Quarter which boasts a 14th-century mosque (one of only three in Spain), the Archaeological Museum with its substantial Roman and Moorish finds and the area by the river. Just outside town is the ruined palace of Medina Azaha – the site is still being excavated.
GRANADA: The last city to fall to the Christians, Granada’s outstanding monument is the Alhambra, the palace-fortress built by the Nasrid rulers in the 13th-14th centuries. The most popular tourist attraction in Spain, tickets must be booked at least 24 hours in advance. The highlights include: the Palacios Nazariés, its halls, courtyards and loggias decorated with painted enamel tiles, delicately fretted arches, stalactite vaulting, marble sculptures and stucco ornament; the Alcazába, an 11th-century hilltop fortress, and the Generalife, the gardens of the summer palace. Across the river from the Alhambra is the atmospheric Arab quarter of the Albaicín. The main sights here are the Arab baths, the Renaissance Casa de Castril and the Church of San Nicolás from where the views of the Alhambra and the surrounding countryside are outstanding. In the town itself visitors should not miss the Gothic Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) built by Ferdinand and Isabella as a mausoleum and a symbol of their triumph over the Moors. The adjoining cathedral, built over several centuries, is impressive mainly in its proportions.
THE SIERRA NEVADA: South of Granada and only about 40km (25 miles) from the coast, is the upland area of the Sierra Nevada, a mountain range running roughly east to west. It contains the highest peaks in Iberia; one of these, the Pico de Veleta (over 3400m/11,155ft) is accessible for most of its height by road and coach trips. The region offers the unique opportunity to combine a holiday of winter sports with coastal sunshine and watersports in the Mediterranean (see below). Mountain resorts include Capileira (south of the Pico de Veleta), Borreguiles and Pradollano (both in the Solynieve region). There are also coach excursions from Granada to the picturesquely isolated villages of the Alpujarra on the southern fringes of the Sierra Nevada. There are dramatic views of the valleys and ravines from the twisting mountain roads.
Jaén is an ancient town rich in historic buildings and art treasures; the Provincial Museum, the Cathedral, the Castle of Santa Catalina and the 11th-century Moorish baths among them. Baeza is noteworthy for its aristocratic town houses, mostly dating from the Renaissance period. The most distinguished is the Palacio de Jabalquinto, its ornamentation clearly revealing Mudejar influences. Like Baeza, Ubeda has many Renaissance palaces, but the outstanding monument here is the Capilla del Salvador, a fine example of Plateresque architecture.
COSTA DE LA LUZ: This attractive stretch of coastline extends from the Portuguese border in the west to Tarifa in the east and, while popular with Spanish tourists, is still relatively undeveloped.
Cádiz’s heyday as a port was in the 16th century when it traded in gold and silver from the Americas. Today the town’s slightly down-at-heel appearance is part of its charm. Points of interest include the sea fortifications, the ‘old’ and ‘new’ cathedrals and the tower, Torre Tavira, worth the climb for the sweeping rooftop views. The nearest beach is the Playa de la Victoria, but there are plenty of alternatives in the direction of San Lúcar de Barremada. Less than half an hour away is the sherry town of Jerez de la Frontera. Several of the bodegas (bars), whose links with England began with the importation of ‘sherris-sack’ in the 16th century, are open to the public for tastings. Other attractions include the splendid Renaissance cathedral and a restored 11th-century Moorish Alcázar with baths. Another popular excursion from Cadiz is to the Sierra de Grazalema National Park where visitors can enjoy the wonderful mountain scenery. Points of interest along the route include the Puerto de las Palomas mountain pass which overlooks Grazalema itself, the fortified town of Zahara de la Sierra and Arcos de la Fronteira, a picturesque village with a commanding cliff top location overlooking the Rio Guadalete. The road from Cádiz to Algeciras offers spectacular views of the Straits of Gibraltar, the North African coastline and the Atlas Mountains. From Algeciras, ferries run to Tangier and Ceuta on the north African coast, as well as to the Canary Islands.
In the province of Huelva is the village of El Rocío where one of the most important Spanish festivals in honour of the Virgin Mary is held at Whitsun. Also of interest are the beautiful stalactite caves of Gruta de las Maravillas in Aracena in the north of Huelva province and the national park, Coto de Doñana.
COSTA DEL SOL: This densely populated area, popular with tourists on account of its fine beaches and picturesque towns, extends along most of Andalusia’s Mediterranean coastline, from Almeria to Tarifa.
Usually regarded as little more than the gateway to the Costa del Sol, Málaga is an attractive and lively city with plenty to interest the passing visitor. The birthplace of Spain’s greatest 20th-century artist, Pablo Picasso, it is now home to the newly opened Picasso Museum which exhibits an important collection of his paintings. His parents’ house is also open to the public. Other sights worth a look are the unfinished Cathedral (16th-18th centuries), the Tropical Gardens and two restored Moorish castles, the Alcazaba and Gibralfara. Marbella and Torremolinos, the main resorts of the Costa del Sol, are overdeveloped, but it is still possible to find a relatively uncrowded beach further afield. In the same province is Nerja, known as the ‘Balcony of Europe’ on account of its having a promontory look-out which is perched high above the sea with commanding views of the Mediterranean. It is also the home of well-preserved prehistoric caves. An excursion can be made from Málaga to the old mountain town of Ronda, spectacularly situated on a gorge in the Sierra de Ronda.
COSTA DE ALMERÍA: To the east of the Costa del Sol is the province of Almería, one of the most heavily developed tourist regions of the country. The capital of the same name is a former Roman port, dominated by its Moorish castle, the Alcazaba. Attractions here include the 16th-century Cathedral and the Church of Santiago el Viejo. The main resorts of Roquetas de Mar, Aguadulce, El Cabo de Gata and Mojácar lie east and west of the town.
THE AFRICAN ENCLAVES: Ceuta is a free port on the north coast of Africa. The city is dominated by the Plaza de Africa in the town centre, and by the cathedral. The promontory has the remains of the old fortress. Bus services are available into Morocco and there are regular car-ferry sailings from Algeciras.
Melilla is also a free port on the north coast of Africa, and is served by car ferries from Málaga and Almería. The town is mainly modern, but there are several older buildings, including a 16th-century church.
Castile/La Mancha & Extremadura
This inland region lies between Madrid and Andalucia. Bordered by mountains to the north, east and south, it is irrigated by two large rivers, the Tajo and the Guadiana, both of which flow westwards to Portugal and thence to the Atlantic. Castile/La Mancha, the higher, western part of the region, is also known as Castilla La Nueva (New Castile).
CASTILE/LA MANCHA: To the south of Madrid is the ancient Spanish capital of Toledo. Rising above the plains and a gorge of the Rio Tajo, the city is dominated by the magnificent cathedral and Alcazar. The town seems tortured by streets as narrow as the steel blades for which it is famous. Toledo is justly proud of its collection of paintings by El Greco, who lived and painted here. El Greco’s most famous painting, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, is preserved in the Santo Tomé Church. There are more El Grecos as well as works by Goya and other artists in the Hospital y Museo de Santa Cruz, a magnificent Renaissance building with a Plateresque façade. Other reminders of Toledo’s rich cultural heritage are its two medieval synagogues and a tenth-century mosque, currently undergoing restoration.
Guadalajara, capital of the province of the same name, is situated northeast of the capital, on the Rio Henares. Sights include the 15th-century Palacio del Infantado and the Church of San Gines.
The provincial capital of Ciudad Real is the chief town in the La Mancha region, the home of Don Quixote. There are many places in the surrounding area associated with Don Quixote, including Campo de Criptana, believed to be the setting for his fight with the windmills.
Cuenca, also a provincial capital, is famous for its hanging houses. It is one of the most attractive of Spain’s medieval towns and the Gothic cathedral is particularly richly decorated. The nearby countryside includes woods, lakes, spectacular caves, towering mountains and valleys, many with fortified towns and villages clinging to their sides.
Albacete is the centre of a wine-producing region. The town witnessed two exceptionally bloody battles during the Reconquista, but the considerable rebuilding of the town has left few reminders of its history. More evidence, however, is scattered in the surrounding countryside, where such places as the Moorish castle at Almansa and the old fortified towns of Chinchilla de Monte Aragón and Villena reflect the area’s stormy past.
EXTREMADURA: This region consists of the provinces of Cáceres and Badajoz. Cáceres was founded in the first century BC by the Romans, and was later destroyed by the Visigoths and rebuilt by the Moors. There are traces of all the stages of the city’s history, although most of the buildings date from Cáceres’ Golden Age during the 16th century. Nearby is the beautiful village of Arroyo de la Luz. Around 48km (30 miles) away is the walled town of Trujillo, birthplace of the conquistador, Francisco Pizarro. Apart from two museums devoted to the conquest of the New World, visitors can see the fortress, a number of Renaissance town houses and historic churches. Also in this province is Plasencia, founded in the 12th century, which has a beautiful medieval aqueduct, cathedral and a 15th-century convent that has retained much of its original architecture, masonry, painting and murals.
The ancient fortified town of Badajoz (in the province of the same name), is situated very close to the Portuguese frontier and was founded by the Romans. The Alcazaba, the Moorish part of the town, is on a hill in the northeast of the town. Not far away is the town of Albuquerque, which has the ruins of a massive castle and a large Gothic church. In the same province is the town of Mérida, famous for ancient Roman ruins; the remains are housed in the Museum of Archaeology. A few kilometres away is Medellín, where Cortés was born in 1485.
Castile/León & La Rioja
The inland region of Castile and León lie to the north and northwest of Madrid and occupy the northern part of the Meseta Central, the plateau that covers much of central Spain. As with the Madrid region, Castile and León are hemmed in by high mountains to the north, east and south and are the catchment area for a large river, the Douro, which flows westward into Portugal. Hot and dry throughout much of the year, the region’s extensive plains nonetheless make it an important agricultural asset for a country as mountainous as Spain. The small wine region of La Rioja is tucked away to the northeast of Castile and León.
CASTILE LA VIEJA: Superbly situated on a plain overlooked by the Sierra de Gredos, Avila is the highest provincial capital in the country. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is famous for its perfectly preserved 11th-century walls and as the birthplace of the 16th-century mystic, St Teresa. Walking the ramparts is the most obvious attraction. The sights most closely associated with St Teresa are the 17th-century Convent now named in her honour (the small museum exhibits items of clothing and other possessions), the Convento de la Encarnación, where she served as a nun and the Convento de San José which she founded in 1562. The Cathedral is a curious hybrid of the Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance styles.
Segovia is renowned for its 800m-long Roman aqueduct, one of the best preserved structures of its kind in the world. Its other attractions include 18 outstanding Romanesque churches and a Gothic cathedral by the Arab Alcazar. The turrets soaring from its rocky outcrop are said to be the inspiration for Walt Disney’s fairytale castles. A short distance from the town is the wonderfully sited Summer Palace and gardens of La Granja, built in the first half of the 18th century for Philip V.
The province of Soria has a large number of archaeological remains of the Celtiberian and Roman civilisations, many of which can be seen in the Museo Numantino in the provincial capital of the same name. Around 9km (6 miles) north of the town is the site of Numancia, a fortified Celtiberian town. Attractions in the town of Soria include the 13th-century Church of San Juan de Duero, the Cathedral of San Pedro and the Renaissance Palacio de los Condes de Gómara.
Burgos was the birthplace of the knight El Cid, the embodiment of the chivalric tradition. His tomb, and that of his beloved Doña Jimena, can be seen in the magnificent Gothic cathedral. Palencia, the capital of the province of the same name, was the one-time residence of the Kings of Castile and seat of the Cortes of Castile. The 15th-century Gothic Cathedral is the main point of interest, though it can not stand comparison with Burgos. The city has several other late-medieval buildings and an archaeological museum. The industrial city of Valladolid (population 500,000), capital of a province rich in castles and other ancient buildings, is famous for the Holy Week Procession at Easter and the Ferias Mayores (Great Fairs) in September. Towards the end of October, the city hosts a major international film festival. Book ahead if a visit is planned at any of these times. The city is associated with some of the most famous names in the history of the Iberian peninsula. Columbus (although not a Spaniard) died here in 1506 – the Museo de Colon has objects and artefacts from the Mayan, Aztec and Inca civilisations; the great Spanish poet, Miguel de Cervantes, also had a home here which is now a museum. The Museo Nacional de Escultura has the best collection of polychromatic religious sculpture in the world. There’s also a beautiful medieval cathedral and a university. The superb castle at Peñafiel houses a Museum of Wine of the Ribera del Duero region and commands stunning scenic views.
LEÓN: The lively city of León was recaptured from the Moors in 850, and the architecture reflects its long history under Christian rule. The cathedral is one of the finest examples of the Gothic style in the country and boasts some outstanding 13th-century stained glass. Also worth seeing is the Pantheon in the Church of San Isidoro which contains the tombs of the medieval kings of Castile and León and is decorated with Romanesque wall paintings. There are several places of interest within easy reach of León, including the spectacular Puerto de Pajares, Benavente and the attractive region around Astorga, a town which, like other towns in the region, was a stopping point on the Way of St James (see Santiago de Compostela in the Northern Region section).
South of León is the province of Zamora; the provincial capital of the same name was the scene of many fierce struggles between the Moors and the Christians during the Reconquista, in which the Spanish hero El Cid figured prominently. The town has a Romanesque Cathedral and several 12th-century churches. Approximately 19km (12 miles) northwest of the town is an artificial lake, created in 1931; on the shores of the lake, in El Campillo, is a Visigoth church dating from the seventh century, which was moved when its original site was flooded by the new reservoir.
The southernmost province of León, Salamanca, has as its capital the ancient university town of the same name, awarded the title of ‘European City of Culture’ for 2002. It is situated on the swiftly flowing Tormes River and has many superb Renaissance buildings, weathered to a golden-brown hue. The most famous of these are the two Cathedrals, one Romanesque, the other late-Gothic in style but not completed until the 18th century. The university and the fine houses around the Plaza Mayor are also striking. More unusual is the Museo Art Nouveau y Art Deco, with its fascinating collections of objets d’art from the first half of the 20th century. The fiesta in September is very popular and bookings should be made well in advance.
LA RIOJA: This region is famous for its vineyards. The capital, Logroño, is in the centre of the region. It is a district with a great historical past; the origins of poetry in the Castilian language lie here and it contains the channel of a European stream of culture – the Road to Santiago.
The Northern Region
This region comprises northwestern Spain and the northern coast stretching as far as the French frontier. The two outstanding natural features are the Cantabrian Mountains and the Rías Gallegas estuaries in Galicia. The highest peaks are the Picos de Europa (2615m/8579ft) in Asturias, favoured by walkers, climbers and wildlife enthusiasts. There are excellent beaches along the entire coastline, mostly of fine sand, often surrounded by cliffs and crags. Much of the hinterland however is green, lush and forested. This is at least partly due to the climate which is noticeably wetter than in the south.
GALICIA: Galicia is a mountainous region with large tracts of heathland broken by gorges and fast-flowing rivers. The coastline has many sandy bays, often backed with forests of fir and eucalyptus, and deep fjord-like estuaries (rías) which cut into the land. The dominant building material is granite. Galicia has its own culture and language (gallego, influenced by Portuguese) and many of the roadsigns are in two languages. La Coruña is the largest town in the region and is said to have been founded by the Phoenicians. Since then it has enjoyed a tempestuous history – the Armada set sail from here in 1588 and Sir John Moore’s British Army had to evacuate the town following an ignominious retreat from Napoleon’s forces in January 1809. Moore died in the encounter and is buried in the Jardín de San Carlos. La Coruña’s most attractive feature is the Ciudad Vega (old quarter) on the north spur of the harbour. Santiago de Compostela has been a centre of pilgrimage since the early middle ages and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The focal point for all visits is the Gothic Cathedral completed in 1188. Apart from the revered image of St James, it boasts a magnificent portico and crypt. For further information, see The Way of St James section. The Roman town of Lugo is noted for having one of the finest surviving examples of Roman walls. Orense first attracted the Romans on account of its therapeutic waters. The 13th-century cathedral was built on the site of one dating from the sixth century. Pontevedra, the region’s fourth provincial capital, is a granite town with arcaded streets and many ancient buildings. Further south is the important port of Vigo, the centre of a region of attractive countryside. A good view of the town and the bay can be had from the Castillo del Castro.
THE WAY OF ST JAMES: During the Middle Ages, the tomb of St James at Santiago de Compostela was regarded as one of the most holy sites in Christendom and thousands of pilgrims travelled through Spain each year to visit the shrine. This route, the Way of St James, was lined with monasteries, religious houses, chapels and hospices to cater for the pilgrims. Many of these buildings still survive, and any traveller following the route today will find it an uplifting introduction to the religious architecture of medieval Spain. The route began in Navarre, at Canfranc or Valcarlos; from there, travelling west, the main stopping places were Pamplona, Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Logroño, Burgos, León, Astorga and Santiago de Compostela. The Saint’s feast day, 25 July (the term ‘day’ is a misnomer since the festival runs for a full week) is celebrated in vigorous style in Santiago de Compostela and accommodation should be booked well in advance. There are several specialist books on the subject of this and other old pilgrim routes which may be followed, both in Spain and elsewhere in Europe.
ASTURIAS: This small, once independent principality is predominantly mountainous although there are also large tracts of forest. The resorts are known collectively as the Costa Verde on account of the rich vegetation.
Oviedo, the capital of Asturias, is an historic town with an outstanding 12th-century Gothic Cathedral. The Camara Santa has some impressive Romanesque wall paintings and other artistic treasures. Asturias has a remarkably rich legacy of Romanesque churches, several of which can easily be visited from Oviedo. San Julian de los Prados dates from AD 830 and is decorated with medieval frescoes. The Palacio de Santa Maria del Naranco was also built in the ninth century for Ramiro I as a hunting lodge. The chapel of San Miguel de Lillo is nearby. There are many good beaches along the coast, especially around the large fishing village of Ribadesella and Lastres.
CANTABRIA: The Cantabrian resorts make a convenient base for expeditions to the mountains. Cantabria (and Asturias) are important centres for skiing and winter sports. The main stations are at Alto Campo, Valgrande-Pajares and San Isidro. Santander is a busy traditional resort set in a beautiful bay ringed with hills. The Gothic Cathedral was destroyed by fire in 1941, but has been carefully restored. The Municipal Museum contains a fine collection of paintings by many 17th- and 18th-century artists. Nearby are the fine beaches of El Sardinero and Magdalena. Santander hosts an impressive music festival throughout August. There are a number of smaller beach resorts to east and west of Santander: Comillas, San Vincente (an old fishing port with a hill-top Gothic church and ducal palace), Laredo and Castro Urdiales (an attractive village with a fine harbour, overlooked by a medieval church and the remains of a Knights Templar castle). The Caves of Altamira are decorated with wall paintings dating back 13,000 years. Note however that admission is strictly limited and advance applications are essential. A hundred metres away is Neocuerva, a reproduction of the prehistoric original. Nearby is the well-preserved historic town of Santillana del Mar with buildings dating from the 12th to the 18th centuries. Solares is noted for the therapeutic qualities of its mineral waters.
THE BASQUE COUNTRY (PAÍS VASCO): Guipúzcoa, Vizcaya and Alava form the Basque provinces, to the east of the Cantabrian Mountains. The economy of this fertile region is based on agriculture despite having been highly industrialised in the 19th century. The Basques are an ancient pre-Indo-European race and the origins of their language have baffled etymologists for centuries. An independence movement started to make headway around the turn of the 20th century and the separatists still have a following in parts of the region. The Spanish constitution allows the Basques a degree of autonomy, but Nationalist politicians are demanding a greater say in their own affairs.
A large though declining port, Bilbao is the main city of the region. The city was founded in the early 14th century and the Old Town is quite extensive with a Gothic Cathedral and an attractive Town Hall. Bilbao’s pre-eminent attraction is Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum, hailed as a masterpiece of 20th-century architecture. The vast exhibition spaces are given over to rotating exhibitions of modern art in all its forms. The Palacio Euskalduna is Bilbao’s new congress and music centre. The provincial capital of San Sebastián, situated very close to the French frontier, is one of the most fashionable and popular Spanish seaside resorts. Just 7km (4 miles) west of the town is Monte Ulia, which offers superb views across the countryside and the Bay of Biscay. The art treasures found in the 13th-century Castle of Butron, near Bilbao, are also worthy of note.
The third provincial capital of the Basque region, and also the regional capital, is Vitoria, famous as being the site of a British victory during the Peninsula War, an event commemorated in various places in the city. Vitoria is remarkable for having two cathedrals; one was completed in the 15th century, whilst the other, on which work commenced in 1907, has yet to be finished.
Navarre & Aragon
These two medieval kingdoms lie southwest of the French border, with the Pyrenees to the northeast. The landscape offers spectacular views, the mountains contrasting with the lush valleys of the lower ground. This is a popular area for skiing and winter sports. The main resorts include Cerler, Panticosa, El Formigal, Candanchú and Astun.
NAVARRE: Pamplona has been inundated with tourists ever since American writer Ernest Hemingway put the town on the map with his novel The Sun Also Rises (1927). His fascination was with the Corrida, the ‘running of the bulls’, at the festival of San Fermín (6-14 July). During this week brave or foolhardy visitors join the young men of the town in trying to outrun a large herd of bulls that stampedes through the town’s narrow, closed streets. Visitors should book early and expect relatively high prices. Outside the fiesta season Pamplona’s main attractions are its old walled quarter, Renaissance Cathedral and imposing Citadel.
ARAGON: Aragon rose to prominence in the late 15th century when its kings resided at Zaragoza, now the regional capital. Situated on the River Ebro, it is a university town, with a medieval Cathedral, a 17th-century basilica dedicated to the Virgin of Pilar (a focus of pilgrimage and celebrations in the second week of October) and the Aljafería, a Moorish palace dating from the 11th to the 15th centuries. The Museo de Zaragoza has finds dating back to the city’s Roman foundations. In the surrounding countryside there are several areas noted for their wine production, such as Borja and Cariñena, and several castles. Huesca, situated in the foothills of the Pyrenees, is an important market town. There are several attractions within easy reach, including the Ordesa National Park, excellent walking and climbing country; the popular summer holiday resort of Arguis in the Puerto de Monrepós region; the spa town of Balneario de Panticosa; and the high-altitude resort and frontier town of Canfranc.
The third and southernmost province of Aragon is Teruel. The provincial capital is sited on a hill surrounded by the gorges of the Rio Turia. It has a pronounced Moorish influence (the last mosque was not closed until ten years after the end of the Reconquista in 1492), and there are several architectural survivals from its Islamic period. Nearby is the small episcopal city of Sergobe, spectacularly situated between two castle-crowned hills.
Valencia & Murcia
VALENCIA: Spain’s third largest city (population 800,000), Valencia is famous for its orange groves, its fruit and vegetable market (one of the largest in Europe) and its lively nightlife. It is also a popular tourist resort with beaches a short bus ride from the town. The newest tourist attraction is Santiago Calatrava’s City of Arts and Science Park. The Hemispheric, an amazing glass structure, houses a planetarium, IMAX dome and laserium. The Palace of Arts is scheduled for completion in 2002 and by the following year the complex will also boast the largest oceanarium in Europe. Valencia’s Cathedral claims possession of the Holy Grail. The Fallas (15-19 March) is a major festival culminating in the burning of papier-mâché effigies satirising famous Spanish figures and a magnificent fireworks display.
ALICANTE & THE COSTA BLANCA: The Costa Calida in the province of Murcia lies to the south of Alicante and is thinly populated except in the areas around the river valleys. Summer temperatures here can be unbearably hot in the resorts but especially inland. Murcia, the town, has a university, cathedral and small old quarter. The salt water lagoon at Mar Menor is good for watersports, while nearby, La Manga offers tennis, golf and so on. Other resorts include Mazarrón, La Unión and Aguilas. The best time to visit Cartagena, founded, as its name implies, by the Carthaginians in the third century BC, is during Holy Week. The town museum has a good collection of Roman and pre-Roman artefacts. Space on the beaches around Torrevieja is at a premium during the summer.
Further north along the coast is Alicante, the most important town on the Costa Blanca. The town is dominated by the vast Moorish castle of Santa Barbara, which offers superb views of the city. Excursions from Alicante include a run inland to Guadalest, a village perched like an eagle’s eyrie high in the mountains and accessible in the last stages only by donkey or on foot. Also of great interest are several historical sites, including the castles at Elda and Villena, and Elche, famous for its forest of a million palm trees, Botanical Gardens and Basilica, where a medieval Mystery play is performed to celebrate the feast of the Assumption (14-15 August).
The Costa Blanca has expanded rapidly in recent years and most of the coastal towns between the Peñón de Ifach and Alicante are primarily tourist resorts. Temperatures are higher than on the Costa Brava and the beaches tend to be more extensive. Benidorm is the largest and most intensively developed resort. The new Terramitica theme park is proving popular with visitors. One of many places of interest in the area is the Peñón de Ifach (Ifach Rock), 5km (3 miles) beyond the walled town of Calpe.
THE COSTA DEL AZAHAR: This coastal region extends from Vinaròs and the Gulf of Valencia to beyond Denia. The region has expansive beaches around Benicàssim, but its most outstanding feature is, perhaps, the medieval fortress town of Peñiscola, a dramatic sight when viewed from a distance. Other places of interest are the ruined castle of Chisvert, inland from Peñiscola; the 16th-century Torre del Rey at Oropesa; and the Carmelite monastery at the Desierto de las Palmas. North of Valencia is the attractive provincial capital of Castellón, Castellón de la Plana. This small town is situated on a fertile plain, and is the centre of a thriving trade in citrus fruits.
Catalonia (Catalunya)
Catalonia is the eastern coastal region, bordering France. It has an ancient culture quite distinct from its neighbours, and many of the inhabitants speak Catalan, a Romance language influenced by medieval French. Catalonia is Spain’s industrial and commercial powerhouse but agriculture (olive oil, wine, almonds and fruit) is also important in the region. Catalonia is an important focus of tourism, especially the seaside resorts of the Costa Brava and Costa Dorada. Skiing and winter sports are on offer for up to six months of the year in the Pyrenees: the resorts include Nuria, La Molina, Masella, Rasos de Peguera, Port del Compte, Espot Esquí and Baqueira-Beret.
BARCELONA: Spain’s second-largest city (population 2.5 million) is a major commercial and industrial centre and an important Mediterranean port. The Barri Gótic (Gothic quarter), as the name suggests, has buildings dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries. Highlights include the Seu (old cathedral), the Episcopal Palace, the Palau de la Generalitat and the Plaça del Rei. The Museo Picasso focuses on the artist’s formative years, but includes works from the Blue and Rose periods. Las Ramblas, Barcelona’s main thoroughfare, occupies the site of the ancient city walls and extends from the Plaça de Catalunya to the port. Cafes, bookstalls, flower and bird markets and street artists are just some of the attractions of this fashionable avenue. Beyond Plaça Catalunya, the Eixample (Extension) boasts a wealth of Art Nouveau and Art Deco architecture. The still incomplete church of the Sagrada Familia (Holy Family) is the masterpiece of Spain’s greatest 20th-century architect, Antoni Gaudí. Other examples of his work are the Casa Batlló, the Casa Mila and Parc Güell. The funicular to Tibidabo, the highest of Barcelona’s hills, and the cable car to Montjuic in the southern suburbs, offer spectacular views over the city. There are funfairs on both summits. Barcelona’s best museums include the Picasso (see above), the Fundació Joan Miró with works by another of Spain’s most innovative 20th-century artists, the Museum of Catalan Art, the Maritime Museum, the Zoological Museum and the Monastery of Peldralbes which houses part of the Thyssen-Bornemisza art collection.
A popular excursion from Barcelona (40km, 24 miles) is to the famed monastery of Montserrat and the shrine of the Black Madonna. The mountain setting, 1135m (3725ft) above the Llobregat River, is spectacular.
THE COSTA DORADA: The coastline from Barcelona to Tarragona has more fine sandy beaches. Tarragona was an important army base in Roman times and visitors can still see the remains of the forum, amphitheatre, aqueduct and fortified walls. The city also has an impressive medieval quarter. Inland is the town of Montblanc with a fine Gothic church and the ruins of the 12th-century Cistercian monastery at Poblet. The two main resorts are Salou (the Port-Aventura Theme Park is a key attraction) and cosmopolitan Sitges.
THE COSTA BRAVA: This coastal strip northeast of Barcelona comprises pine-clad rocks, sandy bays and package resorts. Inland is Lleida, a province which borders the Pyrenees and boasts some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in Spain. Some resorts on the Costa Brava, such as Tossa de Mar, remain largely unspoilt despite the massive influx of holidaymakers; others (Blanes and Lloret de Mar for example) are intensely developed. In summer the crowds can begin to pall, but with persistence relatively isolated beaches can be found. Coastal ferries operate between the main resorts. Girona (Gerona) is one of Catalonia’s oldest cities, dating back to the Roman period. The Gothic Cathedral has a remarkable collection of medieval religious art. Other attractions include the Arab baths, the former Jewish quarter and the fortified walls. Figueres was the birthplace of the artist Salvador Dalí and has a fascinating Museum devoted to his work. Cadaquès is an enchanting, but touristy, fishing village made famous by Dalí who was a regular visitor. Pals is an intact medieval village, complete with fortifications. Empúries (Ampurias) has impressive Graeco-Roman remains.
Sport & Activities
Outdoor pursuits: The many high mountains and the vast central plain or meseta offer excellent opportunities for hiking, mountaineering and walking. Particularly suitable for trekkers are the mountains in the north of the country. The Pyrenees, which cover an area of 450 sq km, feature breathtaking scenery with rocky walls, lakes and ravines. The Picos de Europa, just west of Santander, are also wild and dramatic, with some peaks rising to over 2600 metres (8528 feet). Spain’s flora and fauna includes the brown bear (found in the Asturias), the cabra hispánica or mountain goat (relatively common in the Pyrenees and the Sierra de Gredos, west of Avila) and the rare capercallie or European grouse (in the forests of northern Spain). There are good opportunities for rock climbing in the mountains. Well known, challenging climbs include the Naranjo de Bulnes in the Picos de Europa and Monte Perdido in Ordesa National Park. Mountain biking is becoming increasingly popular, and paths and tracks are plentiful, making most areas accessible. Spain’s long equestrian tradition means that horseriding can easily be arranged. Mountain trails, river valleys and the wide plains can all be explored on horseback.
Watersports: Swimming, water-skiing, and windsurfing facilities can be found at nearly all seaside resorts. These can be busy in the summer months. Spain’s premier windsurfing resort is Tarifa, on the Straits of Gibraltar, where the world championships are held. Inland lakes on the meseta in the regions of Castilla and Extremadura also have good facilities for windsurfing. Whitewater rafting and canoeing are practised on the rapids in northern Spain. Centres are well equipped and have skilled staff. Sailing is very popular, both around the coast and inland. Spain has over 4000km of coastline, and there are many harbours. Over 100 sailing clubs exist, most of which are located near the Mediterranean. Diving is also popular; permits can be acquired from the relevent regional authorities.
Fishing: Excellent opportunities exist for all types of fishing. The rivers and streams of the Pyrenees and the Picos de Europa offer good freshwater game fishing, while trout is abundant throughout the country. The Asturias contain the best salmon rivers. Other catches include barbel, perch, pike and tench. Permits must be requested from the regional authorities.
Golf: This is becoming increasingly popular, with both Costa del Sol and La Manga emerging as two of Spain's premier golfing destinations. At present Spain has over 200 golf courses, including courses designed by the likes of Robert Trent Jones, Severiano Ballesteros, Jack Niklaus and Jose María Olazabel. The Valderrama (near Madrid) is particularly well known. Spain’s balmy climate allows for a long golf season. Tuition and equipment hire are widely available.
Wintersports: Spain offers great opportunities for skiing and there are many natural ski-runs and winter resorts, equipped with modern facilities, all blessed with the promise of warm sun and blue skies. There is also a wide range of hotels, inns and refuges from which to choose.
There are five main skiing regions in Spain; these are the Pyrenean Range, the Cantabrian Range, the Iberian Chain, the Central Chain and the Penibetic Chain. These ranges have diverse characteristics and all are attractive for mountaineering in general and for winter sports in particular . For further details see Madrid and the regions of Cantabria, Catalonia and Navarre & Aragon in the Resorts & Excursions section.
Spectator sports: A typical and spectacular sport is pelota vasca, or jai-alai. Most major northern Spanish cities have courts where daily matches are played from October to June. In the towns and cities of the Basque regions the game is played in summer as well. Football is probably the most popular spectator sport, with clubs such as Real Madrid and Barcelona being among the most famous in the world; first-class matches are usually played on Sunday. International matches are also staged from time to time. There is a magnificent horseracing track in Madrid with meetings in the autumn and spring; there is racing in San Sebastián in the summer and in Seville in winter. Motoracing is a popular spectator sport in Barcelona and Cadiz.
Social Profile
Food & Drink: Eating out in Spain is often cheap and meals are substantial rather than gourmet. One of the best ways to sample Spanish food is to try tapas, or snacks, which are served at any time of day in local bars. These range from cheese and olives to squid or meat delicacies and are priced accordingly. Many of the specialities of Spanish cuisine are based on seafood, although regional specialities are easier to find inland than along the coast. In the northern Basque provinces, there is cod vizcaina or cod pil-pil; angulas, the tasty baby eels from Aguinaga; bream and squid. Asturias has its bean soup, fabada, cheeses and the best cider in Spain, and in Galicia there is shellfish, especially good in casseroles, and a number of regional seafood dishes such as hake à la Gallega.
In the eastern regions the paella has a well-deserved reputation. It can be prepared in many ways, based on meat or seafood. Catalonia offers, among its outstanding specialities, lobster Catalan, butifarra sausage stewed with beans, and partridge with cabbage. Pan amb tomaquet, bread rubbed with olive oil and tomato, is a delicious accompaniment to local ham and cheese.
The Castile area specialises in roast meats, mainly lamb, beef, veal and suckling pig, but there are also stews, sausages, country ham and partridges. Andalucía is noted for its cooking (which shows a strong Arab influence), especially gazpacho, a delicious cold vegetable soup, a variety of fried fish including fresh anchovies, jabugo ham from Huelva and many dishes based on the fish which the coast provides in such abundance. Restaurants are classified by the Government and many offer tourist menus (menu del día). Restaurants and cafes have table service.
Spain is essentially a wine-drinking country, with sherry being one of the principal export products. Its English name is the anglicised version of the producing town Jerez (pronounced khereth), from which the wine was first shipped to England. Today, Britain buys about 75 per cent of all sherry exports. There are four main types: fino (very pale and very dry), amontillado (dry, richer in body and darker in colour), oloroso (medium, full-bodied, fragrant and golden) and dulce (sweet). Sanlúcar de Barrameda and Puerto de Santa María are other towns famous for their sherry and well worth visiting. Tourists are able to visit one of the bodegas (above-ground wine stores) in Jerez. In the Basque Country a favourite is chacolí, a ‘green’ wine, slightly sparkling and a little sour, rather than dry.
The principal table wines are the riojas and valdepeñas, named after the regions in which they are produced. In general, rioja, from the region around Logroño in the northeast, resembles the French Bordeaux, though it is less delicate. Valdepeñas is a rougher wine, but pleasant and hearty. It will be found at its best in the region where it is grown, midway between Madrid and Cordóba. In Catalonia the ampurdán and perelada wines tend to be heavy and those that are not rather sweet are harsh, with the exception of the magnificent full-bodied Burgundy-type penedés wines. Alicante wine, dry and strong, is really a light aperitif. Nearby, the Murcia region produces excellent wine. Often it makes a pleasant change to try the unbottled wines of the house (vino de la casa). It is much cheaper than the bottled wines and even in small places is usually good. Similarly, inexpensive supermarket wine is very acceptable. Among the many brands of sparkling wines known locally as cava, the most popular are Codorniú and Freixenet, dry or semi-dry. The majority of Spanish sparkling wines are sweet and fruity.
Spanish brandy is as different from French as Scotch whisky is from Irish. It is relatively cheap and pleasant, although most brandy drinkers find it a little sweet.
Spain has several good mineral waters. A popular brand is Lanjarón which comes from the town of the same name. It can be still or sparkling. Vichy Catalan is almost exactly like French Vichy. Malavella is slightly effervescent and Font Vella is still. Cocktail lounges have table and/or counter service. There are no licensing hours.
Nightlife: Spaniards often start the evening with el paseo, a leisurely stroll through the main streets. A cafe terrace is an excellent vantage point to observe this tradition, or enjoy street theatre in the larger cities. The atmosphere is especially vibrant at fiesta time, or when the local football team has won, when celebrations are marked by a cacophony of car horns, firecrackers and a sea of flags and team regalia. Tapas bars offer delicious snacks in a relaxed, enjoyable setting and it is fun to try out several bars in one night. The nightclubs of Ibiza, Barcelona and Madrid have attracted the attention of the international media, but the variety on offer caters for most tastes. Things work up to la marcha (good fun) relatively late and it is possible to dance literally until dawn. Flamenco or other regional dancing displays provide an alternative for those who prefer to watch dancing.
Shopping: In Spain the shopper can find items of high quality at a fair price, not only in the cities, but in the small towns as well. In Madrid the Rastro Market is recommended, particularly on Sundays. Half of the market takes place in the open air and half in more permanent galleries, and it has a character all of its own. Catalonian textiles are internationally famous and there are mills throughout the region. Spanish leather goods are prized throughout the world, offering high-fashion originals at reasonable prices. Of note are the suede coats and jackets. In general, all leather goods, particularly those from Andalucía, combine excellent craftmanship with high-quality design. Fine, handcrafted wooden furniture is one of the outstanding products; Valencia is especially important in this field, and has a yearly international furniture fair. Alicante is an important centre for toy manufacturing. Shoe manufacturing is also of an especially high quality; the production centres are in Alicante and the Balearics. Fine rugs and carpets are made in Cáceres, Granada and Murcia. The numerous excellent sherries, wines and spirits produced in Spain make good souvenirs to take home. Shopping hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1300 and 1630-2000. However, most commercial stores and malls stay open from 1000-2200.
Special Events: Throughout Spain, folklore is very much alive and there is always some form of folk festival occurring. It is almost impossible for a visitor to be anywhere in the country for more than a fortnight without something taking place. The Ministry of Tourism produces a booklet listing and describing Spain’s many national and regional feasts and festivals, of which there are over 3000 each year. Fiestas, Saints’ Days, Romerías (picnics to religious shrines) and Verbenas (night festivals on the eve of religious holidays) are all celebrated with great spirit and energy. Holy Week is probably the best time of year to visit for celebrations and it is then that the individuality of each region’s style of pageantry is best revealed. For further information contact the Spanish National Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section). The following is a list of some of the more notable fiestas and other events of interest to visitors in 2003:
Jan 19-20 Tamborrada, San Sebastian. Feb 2-4 Moors and Christians (traditional festival), Bocairente, Valencia. Feb 12 Carnival, throughout Spain. Apr 13-20 Holy Week (religious celebrations throughout Spain). Apr 22-May 26 Moors and Christians, Alcoy, Alicante. Apr 29-May 4 Sevilla Fair. May Festival of the Courtyards and May Fair, Cordoba. May 2-3 Cruces de Mayo, Granada. May 5-12 Feria del Caballo (horse market), Jerez. May 15-29 Fiestas de San Isidro, Madrid. Jun (around Jun 11) San Bernabe Fair, Marbella. Jun 14-24 San Juán Festival, Javea, Alicante. Jul 6-14 San Fermín (Running of the Bulls), Pamplona. Jul 16 Sea Festival, Fuengirola, Malaga. Aug (first Sun) San Beneitino de Leire (traditional festival), Pontevedra. (for eight days from Sat after Aug 15) Aste Nagusia (popular festival), Bilbao. (last Wed) La Tomatina (popular festival), Buñol, Valencia. Sep Moors and Christians, Benidorm. Sep 24 La Merced (popular festival), Barcelona. Oct 6-12 Fair, Fuengirola, Malaga. Oct (last weekend) Saffron Festival, Consuegra, Toledo. Nov Benidorm Festival. Dec 28 The Verdiales (popular music festival), Malaga.
Note: The most famous carnival celebrations are held in the capitals of the Canary Islands - Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Las Palmas de Gran Canaria - where celebrations start around Feb 28 and last for up to two weeks.
Social Conventions: Spanish life has undergone rapid change in recent years and many of the stricter religious customs are giving way to more modern ways, particularly in the cities and among women. Nonetheless, many old customs, manners and traditions have not faded and hospitality, chivalry and courtesy remain important. Handshaking is the customary form of greeting. Normal social courtesies should be observed when visiting someone’s home. If invited to a private home, a small gift is appreciated. Flowers are only sent for special celebrations. Conservative casual wear is widely acceptable. Some hotels and restaurants encourage men to wear jackets. A black tie is only necessary for very formal occasions and is usually specified if required. Outside resorts, scanty beachwear should be confined to beach or poolside. Smoking is widely accepted. The evening meal is taken late, generally 2100-2200. The Spanish have two family names; in conversation only the first should be used. Tipping: Service charges and taxes are usually included in hotel bills, however in addition, a tip should be left for the chambermaid and porters should be tipped per bag. It is also customary to leave a tip for the waiter. Restaurants often include service in the bill so a tip is discretionary. In cafes and bars it is ten to 15 per cent. Tip taxis ten to 15 per cent when metered.
Business Profile
Economy: Spain is a major industrialised European economy. Until 1975, under the Franco regime, the Spanish economy developed almost in isolation, protected from foreign competition by tight import controls and high tariffs, and gradually evolved from an essentially agrarian economy to an industrial one. Spain joined the (then) European Community in 1986. The transition, which was expected to be very difficult, passed off surprisingly well, and the Spanish economy now ranks eighth in the world by output. Despite the decline of many of its traditional industries, such as shipbuilding, steel and textiles – all of which were badly hit during the world recession – Spain achieved the highest average growth rate in the Community during the 1980s and a steady performance throughout the 1990s.
More recently, in common with most of its EU partners, the Spanish economy has slowed somewhat. As of November 2001, annual GDP growth was two per cent and inflation 2.8 per cent. Unemployment – a legacy of structural weaknesses in the Spanish economy which has not been fully tackled – remains stubbornly high at 13 per cent of the workforce. Other economic indicators, such as interest rates and budget deficit, are within the limits which allowed Spain to join the European Monetary Union at the start of 1999.
The agricultural sector produces cereals, vegetables, citrus fruit, olive oil and wine. The processed foods industry has also expanded rapidly. The fishing fleet, although reduced from its peak of a few decades ago, remains one of the world’s largest, although its approach to international fishing grounds has led Spain into a number of disputes both within and outside the EU. The relative importance of the agriculture and fisheries sectors has declined over the last decade and now accounts for less than four per cent of GDP. Energy requirements are met by indigenous coal and natural gas, imported oil (mostly from north Africa) and a sizeable nuclear power programme. In the manufacturing sector, the decline of older industries has been offset by rapid expansion in chemicals, electronics, information technology and industrial design. Spain has also become an important producer of motor vehicles: this industry alone accounts for five per cent of GDP and 80 percent of output is exported. In the service sector, tourism is a major contributor. The EU countries, the USA and Japan are the country’s main trading partners.
Business: Business people are generally expected to dress smartly. Although English is widely spoken, an interest in Spanish and an effort on the part of the visitor to speak even a few words will be appreciated. Business cards are exchanged frequently as a matter of courtesy and appointments should be made. Punctuality is important. Office hours: Tend to vary considerably. Business people are advised to check before making calls.
Commercial Information: The following organisations can offer advice: Consejo Superior de Cámaras Oficiales de Comercio, Industria y Navegación de España, Calle Velázquez 157, 1°, 28002 Madrid (tel: (91) 590 6900; fax: (91) 590 6908; e-mail: csc@cscamaras.es; website: www.camaras.org); or Instituo Español de Comercio Exterior (ICEX), 66 Chiltern Street, London W1U 4LS, UK (tel: (020) 7467 2330; fax: (020) 7487 5586; e-mail: buzon.oficial@londres.ofcomes.mcx.es; website: www.mcx.es/londres).
Conferences/Conventions: Most large towns have dedicated convention centres in addition to the facilities provided by hotels. Seating capacity ranges from 540 in Jaca to 4200 in Palma de Mallorca; Madrid can seat up to 2650 persons. Further details can be obtained from the Spain Convention Bureau, Calle del Nuncio 8, 28005 Madrid (tel: (91) 364 3700; fax: (91) 365 5482; website: www.femp.es/scb); or Oficina de Congresos de Madrid, C Mayor 69, 28013 Madrid (tel: (91) 588 2900; fax: (91) 588 2930; e-mail: congresos@munimadrid.es; website: www.munimadrid.es/congresos); or from the Spanish Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section).
Climate
Spain’s climate varies from temperate in the north to dry and hot in the south. The best months are from April to October, although mid-summer (July to August) can be excessively hot throughout the country except the coastal regions. Madrid is best in late spring or autumn. The central plateau can be bitterly cold in winter.
Required clothing: Light- to mediumweights and rainwear, according to the season.
History and Government
History: For five centuries from 218 BC, Spain was under the rule of the Romans, who left remnants of their culture throughout the country. Spain then came under the rule of the Visigoths, who rapidly integrated with the inhabitants until driven north by invading Arabs. Muslim culture soon established itself, most notably in the south, where the region centred on Cordoba and Granada became a hub of Arabic culture and learning. The evidence of Arabic influence is still strong, particularly in the wealth of remaining Moorish architecture. During the Middle Ages, Christianity gradually gained ground. Many kingdoms – Aragon, Castile, Navarre, Leon and Portugal being the major ones – were established, most of them constantly at war.
The spirit of Reconquista, the fierce flame that burned throughout so much of the medieval period (roughly comparable to the Islamic concept of Jihad or holy war), produced heroes, folklore, legend, staggering architectural achievements and great acts of bravery and chivalrous folly. It also, after centuries of intermittent fighting, produced a final triumph for Christianity. In 1469, Ferdinand and Isabella – respectively King of Aragon and Queen of Castile, then the two most powerful kingdoms in Iberia, united by marriage – captured Granada, the last Muslim stronghold on the peninsula. The same year saw Columbus’ discovery of America, financed by Castile, and the beginning of Spain’s ‘Golden Age’ as the centre of the far-flung Habsburg Empire of Charles V (Charles, or Carlos I of Spain).
The reign of Philip II during the late-16th century was also one of the most artistically fertile in the country’s history, with Cervantes, Lope de Vega, Velazquez and El Greco coming to prominence at this time. The Habsburg monarchy became progressively less able to deal with the serious political and economic problems of its empire during the 17th century, and the dynasty reached its nadir under the inept rule of King Carlos II. There was a revival under the Bourbons, notably Carlos III, but the late 18th and early 19th centuries saw Spain suffering from the protracted drain of the Napoleonic wars and internal political vendettas. The abdication of King Alfonso XIII in 1931 brought into being a left-wing republic.
This was short-lived and was effectively crushed by General Franco in the Spanish Civil War of 1936-1939. His fascist regime lasted until his death in 1975, when the monarchy was restored. By March 1978, a democratic constitutional monarchy had been put in place. During the 1980s and the early 1990s, domestic politics were dominated by the Partido Socialista Obrero Español (PSOE, Socialist Party), under the leadership of Felipe Gonzalez, an archetype of the new generation of Spanish socialists who favoured pragmatism and technocratic development in favour of ideology. In 1982 and again in 1986, the Socialists won an absolute majority in the Cortes (national assembly). In October 1989, Gonzalez again went to the country to seek his third successive term.
However, disillusion on the left deprived Gonzalez’ socialists of many seats, leaving Gonzalez at the head of a minority government. The Gonzalez government’s particular achievement in foreign policy was to establish Spain as a valuable and enthusiastic member of the (then) European Community, which it joined in 1986 and from which it has benefited considerably. At the time, there were worries about the long-term effects of membership on some of Spain’s heavily protected (a Franco legacy) and uncompetitive industries. Despite an economic recession, mounting allegations of corruption and growing disillusionment with the government, the PSOE was able to arrange a coalition administration with Catalan and Basque nationalist parties. It was the refusal of Convergencia i Unio (CiU), the main Catalan party, to endorse the government’s budget plans that precipitated an early general election, which Gonzalez called for March 1996.
At this point, the Spanish nation overcam | | |