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The Caucasus
MTSKHETA: Located 20km (12 miles) to the northwest of Tbilisi, this town, which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, predated Tbilisi as the capital of Ibera until the fifth century AD, and remained the centre of Georgian Christianity until the 12th century. The 15th-century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (Pillar of Life), standing at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, was the holiest place in old Georgia. According to legend, the church is built on the spot where Christ’s crucifixion robe was dropped to the ground in AD 328, having been brought from Jerusalem by a local Jew, and fragments of the robe are said to be kept inside the cathedral. The existing church has some impressive royal tombs, a fine icon stand and distinctive carved decoration, including bulls’ heads and semi-pagan fertility symbols. Also of interest are the Samtavro Monastery (still functioning although founded in the 11th century, it is famous as the burial place for the first Christian king, Mirian and his wife Nana) and the sixth-century Jvari Cathedral, the design of which became a prototype for Georgian ecclesiastical architecture.
GEORGIAN MILITARY HIGHWAY: Leading 220km (137 miles) from Tbilisi to Vladikavkaz (formerly Ordzhonikidze) in North Ossetia (now part of the Russian Federation), this route was built by the Russians in the 19th century to help them control their conquered Georgian territories. The road winds through the dramatic mountain scenery of the high Caucasus, apparently little changed since the 19th-century novelist Lermontov described the route in ‘A Hero of our Time’. Sites of interest along the road include the 14th-century Tsminda Sameba (Holy Trinity) Church, overlooking the mountain town of Kazbegi, and the city of Mtskheta (see above).
GORI: The birthplace of Iosif Dzhugashvili, better known to the world as Stalin, lies 95km (59 miles) west of Tbilisi. The town has the last surviving public statue of Stalin in the former USSR, as well as a park and a museum devoted to Stalinist hagiography. The latter has been ‘temporarily’ closed for several years, ostensibly for renovation, but more probably to give the curators pause to decide how to display their exhibition in view of prevailing attitudes to the local hero. It also contains the ruins of a 12th-century fortress and a 16th-century church dedicated to St George.
EXCURSIONS: Some 10km (6 miles) east of Gori is Uplistsikhe (Fortress of God), a large complex of natural caves. Inhabited from the sixth century BC to the 14th century AD, the caves were gradually transformed into increasingly sophisticated dwellings, shops and public buildings, including the most ancient theatre in Georgia, dungeons and enormous wine cellars. The Ateni Sioni Church, 10km (6 miles) south of Gori, stands in a beautiful setting and is highly prized for its 11th-century stonecarvings and frescoes.
TORI: The spa town of Bordzhomi, 150km (93 miles) west of Tbilisi in the Tori region, produces much acclaimed mineral water. It is possible to hike in the surrounding hills. Bakuriani is located 29km (18 miles) southeast of Bordzhomi at an altitude of 1700m (5580ft). Before the current breakdown of order, Georgian tourist authorities were working to promote the studarui on the Georgian Military Highway as an international ski resort, proclaiming its clean air, uncrowded slopes and marvellous setting. There is a luxury hotel complex run by the same company that owns the Metekhi Palace in Tbilisi. 10km (6 miles) from Bakuriani, heading towards Bordzhomi, is the 12th-century Daba Monastery, and nearby a 60m (197ft) waterfall. During the summer it is also possible to visit Lake Tabatskuri, sunk into a hollow high in the mountains.
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