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Georgia
Overview
Country Overview
Georgia is bordered by the Russian Federation, Turkey, Armenia, Azerbaijan and the Black Sea. Enclosed high valleys, wide basins, health spas with famous mineral waters, caves and waterfalls combine in this land of varied landscapes and striking beauty.
The capital, Tbilisi, stands on the banks of the River Mtkvari, in a valley surrounded by hills. It is best seen from the top of Mount Mtatsminda. With its warm climate, stone houses built around vine-draped courtyards, and winding streets, the city has a lively, Mediterranean atmosphere.
Sukhumi, the capital of Abkhazia in the far northwest of Georgia, was until civil unrest a relaxed, sunny port/resort, renowned for its beaches fringed with palms and eucalyptus trees, lively open-air cafes and cosmopolitan population.
Local dishes include pkhali (made from young spinach leaves pounded together with spices) and cured meat (basturma). Nightlife is to be found primarily in international hotels.
General Information
Area: 69,700 sq km (26,911 sq miles).
Population: 5,399,000 (official estimate 1999).
Population Density: 77.5 per sq km.
Capital: Tbilisi. Population: 1,271,800 (official estimate 1993).
GEOGRAPHY: Georgia is a mountainous country bordered by the Russian Federation in the north, Turkey in the southeast, Armenia in the south, Azerbaijan in the east and by the Black Sea in the west, which forms a 330km- (206 mile-) long coastline. It includes the two autonomous republics Ajaria and Abkhazia. The state is crossed by the ranges of the Greater Caucasus (highest peak: Mt Kazbek, 5047m/16,554ft). Enclosed high valleys, wide basins, health spas with famous mineral waters, caves and waterfalls combine in this land of varied landscapes and striking beauty.
Government: Republic. Gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. Head of State and Government: President Eduard Shevardnadze since 1992.
Language: The official language is Georgian, the only language in the Ibera Caucasian family written in ancient script, with its own unique alphabet. Russian, Ossetian and Abkhazian are also spoken.
Religion: Christian majority, mainly Georgian Orthodox church. Also Eastern Orthodox, Muslim, Jewish and other Christian denomination minorities.
Time: GMT + 4.
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50 Hz. European-type, two-pin plugs are used. The supply of electricity can be intermittent between November and March, and visitors are advised to bring a torch with them.
Telephone
IDD is, in theory, available. Country code: 995. Some outgoing calls from Georgia, except to other parts of the CIS, must be made through the operator and long waits can occur. It is possible for visitors to set up an account with the local telecom company that enables them to make direct long-distance calls without the operator’s assistance. Many businessmen and journalists now use satellite links to overcome the considerable problems of ordinary telephone communication. The Metekhi Palace Hotel is equipped with its own satellite phones.
Mobile telephone
GSM 900 and 1800 networks. Main operators include Geocell Ltd (website: www.geocell.com.ge) and Magti Com (website: www.magtigsm.com). Coverage extends around the capital and along the coast.
Fax
Facilities are available at the Central Post Office in Tbilisi, 38 Rustaveli Avenue. Fees for outgoing faxes are charged per page.
Internet
Local ISPs include Sanet (website: www.sanet.ge).
Post
International postal services can be severely disrupted. Long delays may occur and parcels should be registered or delivered through courier services such as DHL and Air Express, based locally. It is advisable to post letters in central post offices rather than using the post boxes in the street.
Press
The principal dailies are Droni and Respublika. Georgian Times is the English-language daily and there are two weekly publications, Weekly Post and Tbilisi Times. Foreign newspapers are available.
BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change.
BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice):
Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov):
Passport/Visa
| | Passport Required? | Visa Required? | Return Ticket Required? | | British | Yes | Yes | Yes | | Australian | Yes | Yes | Yes | | Canadian | Yes | Yes | Yes | | USA | Yes | Yes | Yes | | OtherEU | Yes | Yes | Yes | | Japanese | Yes | Yes | Yes |
PASSPORTS: Passport valid for at least six months required by all.
VISAS: Required by all except the following:
nationals of CIS (except nationals of Russian Federation who do require a visa);
Note: (a) Certain conditions apply for visa-free travel. For detailed information (permitted length of stay, etc), visitors may contact the Consular section at the Georgian Embassy (see Contact Addresses section). (b) All visitors must register with the police within three days of arrival.
Types of visa and cost: Tourist (Single-entry): £13. Business/Private (Single-entry): £35 (two weeks); £44 (one month); £61 (three months); (Double-entry): £53 (two weeks); £66 (one month); £92 (three months); (Multiple-entry): £114 (six months); £175 (one year). Transit (Single-entry): £13.
Validity: Tourist visas are valid for three months from date of issue for stays of up to three months. Mutiple-entry visas are valid for six to twelve months from date of issue for stays of up to three months each. Transit visas are normally valid for a maximum of three days (provided transit passengers are also holding valid onward or return documentation).
Application to: Individual travellers should apply to the Embassy (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section. Nationals of countries where there is no Georgian diplomatic representation may obtain visas for US$80 at Tbilisi international airport, where a 24-hour service is provided by the Visa Branch of the Consular Department of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Visitors should note that this service is only applicable for short-stay visits (maximum 14 days). It is also recommended that the Consular Department of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs be informed in advance of the visitor’s planned visit by the inviting party.
Tourist travellers must submit all documentation to the tour operator making the travel arrangements.
Application requirements: Tourist visa: (a) Completed application form. (b) One recent passport-size photo. (c) Passport valid for at least six months from the date of application. (d) Fee (cheques and postal orders are accepted). (e) Stamped, self-addressed envelope for postal applications. (f) Letter of introduction from a travel company. Private (for those intending to stay with relatives or friends): (a)-(e) and, (f) Letter of invitation from relatives or friends in Georgia. Business: (a)-(e) and, (f) Letter of invitation from the inviting company and a letter of introduction from the employer. Business Multiple-entry: (a)-(e) and, (f) An official letter of request from the organisation employing the applicant briefly explaining the purpose of the applicant’s visit to Georgia and their position in the organisation (with additional documents such as a formal invitation from Georgia also possibly being required).
Note: Applications should be made no later than seven working days and not earlier than three months from the date of departure.
Working days required: Four to ten for personal applications; up to one month for multiple-entry visas; longer for postal applications
Money
Currency: Lari (GEL) = 100 tetri. Notes are in denominations of GEL500, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. Coins are in denominations of 50, 20, 10 and 5 tetri.
Currency exchange: US Dollars, Euros or Roubles can be exchanged at special exchange shops, while other currencies must be exchanged in banks. Cash is the preferred method of payment, and visitors are advised to carry notes in small denominations. There is unlikely to be a substantial difference between rates offered by banks or bureaux de change.
Credit & debit cards: Credit cards are accepted in certain hotels. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available.
Travellers cheques: US Dollars or Euros are recommended.
Currency restrictions: The import and export of local currency is unrestricted. The import of foreign currency is permitted. The export of foreign currency is limited to US$500 or equivalent.
Exchange rate indicators
The following table is a guide to the movement of the Lari against Sterling and the US Dollar:
| Date | May ’02 | Aug ’02 | Nov ’02 | Feb ’03 | | £1.00= | 3.25 | 3.32 | 3.46 | 3.48 | | $1.00= | 2.23 | 2.18 | 2.19 | 2.19 |
Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1730.
Duty Free
The following goods may be imported into Georgia without incurring customs duty:
200 cigarettes; 3l of wine or 10l of beer; personal goods up to the weight of 100kg.
Note: On entering the country, tourists are advised to complete a customs declaration form, which they should retain until departure. This allows for the import of articles intended for personal use, including currency and valuables (such as jewellery, cameras, computers, etc) which must be registered on the declaration form. Customs inspections are detailed.
Prohibited imports: Military weapons and ammunition, narcotics and drug paraphernalia, pornography, loose pearls and anything owned by a third party that is to be carried in for that third party.
Prohibited exports: Works of art and antiques (unless permission has been granted by the Ministry of Culture). In this case, the passenger should also hold a photo of the work of art or antique.
Public Holidays
Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Jan 7 Orthodox Christmas. Jan 19 Epiphany. Mar 13 Mothers’ Day. Apr 27 Orthodox Easter. May 26 Independence Day. Aug 28 Mariamoba (Assumption). Oct 14 Svetitskhovloba (Georgian Orthodox Festival). Nov 23 Giorgoba (St George’s Day). Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Jan 7 Orthodox Christmas. Jan 19 Epiphany. Mar 13 Mothers’ Day. Apr 11 Orthodox Easter. May 26 Independence Day. Aug 28 Mariamoba (Assumption). Oct 14 Svetitskhovloba (Georgian Orthodox Festival). Nov 23 Giorgoba (St George’s Day).
Health
| | Special Precautions | Certificate Required | | Yellow Fever | No | No | | Cholera | No | No | | Typhoid and Polio | 1 | N/A | | Malaria | 2 | N/A |
1: Immunisation against poliomyelitis and typhoid is sometimes recommended.
2: Malaria risk in the benign vivax form exists from July to October in some villages in the southeastern part of the country.
Food & drink: All water should be regarded as being a potential health risk. Boiled water is readily available and should be used. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Only eat well cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Pork, salad and mayonnaise may carry increased risk. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled.
Other risks: Hepatitis A occurs. Immunisation against hepatitis B should be considered. Outbreaks of diphtheria and anthrax have been reported. Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix. Travellers staying for more than one month must present a medical certificate proving they are HIV-negative. If not holding the required documentation, they will be subject to a compulsory AIDS test on arrival.
Health care: The health service provides free medical treatment for all citizens in principle. A reciprocal health agreement for urgent medical treatment exists with the UK. In order to obtain treatment, some proof of UK residence will be required. Small sums may have to be paid for medicines and hospital treatment. If a longer stay than originally planned becomes necessary because of the illness, the visitor has to pay for all further treatment. Owing to the present state of medical services, emergency evacuation travel insurance is recommended for all travellers. It is also advisable to take a supply of those medicines that are likely to be required (but check first that they may be legally imported) as medicines can prove very difficult to get hold of.
Travel - International
Note: Visitors should avoid the regions of Abkhazia, South Ossetia, the Pankisi gorge beyond Akhmeta and the Zugdidi and Tsalenjikha districts of the Samegrelo region which border Abkhazia. Visitors should not enter or leave Georgia via the land borders with Russia. For further advice visitors should contact their local government travel advice department.
AIR: Airzena Georgian Airlines (A9) (website: www.airzena.com), the national airline, operates regular flights from Athens, Frankfurt/M, Kiev, Moscow, Paris, Tel Aviv, and Vienna. For further information contact them at their offices in Paris (tel: (1) 4502 1157; fax: (1) 4502 1601). British Mediterranean, a franchise partner of British Airways, operates three direct scheduled flights to Tbilisi from London Heathrow; contact British Airways for details of flights (tel: (0870) 551 1155). Other airlines serving Georgia include Turkish Airlines, Aeroflot, Air Ukraine, Swiss and Austrian Airlines.
Approximate flight times: From Tbilisi to London is 6 hours 45 minutes; to New York is 15 hours (both times include stop overs); and to Paris is 4 hours 45 minutes.
International airports: Tbilisi (TBS) is 16km (9 miles) east of Tbilisi city centre. Buses and taxis are available to the city centre (travel time – 30 minutes). Airport facilities include banks/bureaux de change, bars, restaurants, duty-free shops, first aid and left luggage. In winter, power failures may affect the airport.
Departure tax: None.
SEA: The main ports are Batumi, Poti and Sukhumi. Batumi and Poti provide international connections with the Black Sea ports of Odessa, Sochi, Trabzon and Istanbul, and the Mediterranean ports of Genoa and Piraeus.
RAIL: The Transcaucasian railway operates services between Baku (Azerbaijan) and Yerevan (Armenia). The main line runs towards Russian Federation through Georgia along the Black Sea coast. War in the break-away region of Abkhazia has adversely affected Georgia’s rail link with Russia and it is mainly used for transportation of cargo.
ROAD: Highways connect Georgia with the Russian Federation in the north via the Caucasian Road Tunnel (currently closed) and the Georgian Military Highway which runs south through Turkey, Armenia and Azerbaijan via the Dariali Gorge. At present, visitors are advised not to cross the Georgia–Russia border in either direction.
Travel - Internal
AIR: Domestic flights operated by Airzena Georgian Airlines run between Tbilisi and Kutaisi, Butani and Senaki.
RAIL: In total, Georgia has almost 1600km (987 miles) of railway. The Government has now restored order on the railway, which had suffered from fuel shortages, armed attacks on trains, sabotage of track and bridges, and there is now a fundamentally sound infrastructure. However, rail travel in the north and west is very difficult owing to the conflict in Abkhazia and visitors are advised not to undertake long-distance rail travel. Rail passengers are advised to store their valuables in the compartment under the seat/bed and not to leave the compartment unattended. It is also a good idea to ensure the compartment door is secure from the inside by tying it closed with wire or strong cord. Reservations are required for all trains. There are two classes of trains, primarily distinguished by the comfort of the seats. Children under five years of age travel free and children from five to nine years of age pay half fare.
ROAD: Traffic drives on the right. Georgia has approximately 20,000km (12,428 miles) of asphalted roads, and there is an ambitious project to construct a motorway connecting the Black Sea ports to the border with Azerbaijan, passing through Tbilisi. Travellers attempting to drive around Georgia independently should be aware that it is difficult to buy fuel without highly specialised local knowledge and that an adequate supply of fuel should be obtained in Tbilisi beforehand. Also, reliable road maps or signposts do not exist. Buses provide a reliable if uncomfortable service between towns within the republic. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is required.
URBAN: Tbilisi is served by buses, trolleybuses, cable cars and a small underground system. It is common practice to flag down official taxis, but fares should always be negotiated in advance, bearing in mind the likelihood that rates set for foreigners will be unreasonably high. In view of the rising crime rate, foreigners should take precautions before getting into a car, and it is generally safer to use officially marked taxis which should not be shared with strangers. It is inadvisable to take a ride if there is already more than one person in the car.
Accommodation
Under the former Soviet Government, hotels in Georgia were mainly state-owned. Much has changed recently, with many hotels now privatised and standards of tourist facilities far higher than in previous years. Tbilisi has luxury hotels with correspondingly high prices, one of which also houses the British Embassy. There are also a number of good hotels in Batumi and Kutaisi. Some of the large public hotels now provide temporary accommodation for refugees from Abkhazia and do not serve tourists. Most of the accommodation facilities currently available in Georgia are bed & breakfast type smaller hotels and guesthouses typically serving eight to 16 guests, often with shared bathroom facilities. In rural areas, visitors can stay as guests in private houses.
Tbilisi
The capital of Georgia stands on the banks of the River Mtkvari, in a valley surrounded by hills. The name for the city derives from the word tbili (warm). It is best seen from the top of Mount Mtatsminda. With its warm climate, stone houses built around vine-draped courtyards, and winding streets, the city has a lively, Mediterranean atmosphere which was even present during the Soviet period. The old city, spreading out from the south bank of the river, has numerous frescoed churches (the most noteworthy being the sixth-century Sioni Cathedral), 19th-century houses with arcaded open galleries on the upper floors, a castle and a surprising number of cafes and enticing tourist shops selling locally produced arts and crafts. Prospekt Rustaveli, Tbilisi’s main thoroughfare, features an assortment of stylish public buildings testifying to the city’s prosperity at the turn of the century. The Georgian State Museum on Prospekt Rustaveli houses a collection of icons, frescoes and porcelain, as well as an outstanding display of jewellery discovered in pre-Christian Georgian tombs. The Georgian Museum of Arts, in the centre of town, includes many works by the much-loved 19th-century ‘primitive’ artist, Niko Pirosmani. The Narikala Fortress, first established by the Persians in the fourth century AD and most recently rebuilt in the 17th century, is a good vantage point for views over the old city. Visitors can still experiment with health-giving sulphur baths in a domed, oriental-style 19th-century bath house just north of the Metekhi Bridge. Popular with visitors today, Georgian sulphur baths were also frequented by writers such as Pushkin and Tolstoy. The open-air Museum of Ethnography, located in a western suburb, has interesting examples of rural buildings and artefacts. Davit Aghmashenebeli Prospekt is the base for the Georgian State Philharmonic Orchestra and the internationally known Georgian National Dance Troupe.
The Caucasus
MTSKHETA: Located 20km (12 miles) to the northwest of Tbilisi, this town, which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, predated Tbilisi as the capital of Ibera until the fifth century AD, and remained the centre of Georgian Christianity until the 12th century. The 15th-century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (Pillar of Life), standing at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, was the holiest place in old Georgia. According to legend, the church is built on the spot where Christ’s crucifixion robe was dropped to the ground in AD 328, having been brought from Jerusalem by a local Jew, and fragments of the robe are said to be kept inside the cathedral. The existing church has some impressive royal tombs, a fine icon stand and distinctive carved decoration, including bulls’ heads and semi-pagan fertility symbols. Also of interest are the Samtavro Monastery (still functioning although founded in the 11th century, it is famous as the burial place for the first Christian king, Mirian and his wife Nana) and the sixth-century Jvari Cathedral, the design of which became a prototype for Georgian ecclesiastical architecture.
GEORGIAN MILITARY HIGHWAY: Leading 220km (137 miles) from Tbilisi to Vladikavkaz (formerly Ordzhonikidze) in North Ossetia (now part of the Russian Federation), this route was built by the Russians in the 19th century to help them control their conquered Georgian territories. The road winds through the dramatic mountain scenery of the high Caucasus, apparently little changed since the 19th-century novelist Lermontov described the route in ‘A Hero of our Time’. Sites of interest along the road include the 14th-century Tsminda Sameba (Holy Trinity) Church, overlooking the mountain town of Kazbegi, and the city of Mtskheta (see above).
GORI: The birthplace of Iosif Dzhugashvili, better known to the world as Stalin, lies 95km (59 miles) west of Tbilisi. The town has the last surviving public statue of Stalin in the former USSR, as well as a park and a museum devoted to Stalinist hagiography. The latter has been ‘temporarily’ closed for several years, ostensibly for renovation, but more probably to give the curators pause to decide how to display their exhibition in view of prevailing attitudes to the local hero. It also contains the ruins of a 12th-century fortress and a 16th-century church dedicated to St George.
EXCURSIONS: Some 10km (6 miles) east of Gori is Uplistsikhe (Fortress of God), a large complex of natural caves. Inhabited from the sixth century BC to the 14th century AD, the caves were gradually transformed into increasingly sophisticated dwellings, shops and public buildings, including the most ancient theatre in Georgia, dungeons and enormous wine cellars. The Ateni Sioni Church, 10km (6 miles) south of Gori, stands in a beautiful setting and is highly prized for its 11th-century stonecarvings and frescoes.
TORI: The spa town of Bordzhomi, 150km (93 miles) west of Tbilisi in the Tori region, produces much acclaimed mineral water. It is possible to hike in the surrounding hills. Bakuriani is located 29km (18 miles) southeast of Bordzhomi at an altitude of 1700m (5580ft). Before the current breakdown of order, Georgian tourist authorities were working to promote the studarui on the Georgian Military Highway as an international ski resort, proclaiming its clean air, uncrowded slopes and marvellous setting. There is a luxury hotel complex run by the same company that owns the Metekhi Palace in Tbilisi. 10km (6 miles) from Bakuriani, heading towards Bordzhomi, is the 12th-century Daba Monastery, and nearby a 60m (197ft) waterfall. During the summer it is also possible to visit Lake Tabatskuri, sunk into a hollow high in the mountains.
Black Sea Coast
BATUMI: A seaside resort and port in the southwest of the republic, Batumi is the capital of the Ajarian Autonomous Republic. Close to the Turkish border (20km/12.5 miles) away, the town has a decidedly Turkish character, with a mosque and 19th-century bath house. However, its charm lies less in any particular sights than in its lush, subtropical setting, among citrus groves and tea plantations, with mountains rising up from the edge of the sea. The Ajarian Museum (with its superb national costume collection), the circus, park, Botanical Garden and the theatre are also well worth visiting.
SUKHUMI: The capital of Abkhazia, in the far northwest of Georgia, was until recently a relaxed, sunny port/resort, renowned for its beaches fringed with palms and eucalyptus trees, lively open-air cafes and cosmopolitan population. The ruined 11th-century Castle of the Georgian Bagratid King, the Botanical Gardens, Shroma Cave with its amazing stalactites and stalagmites and the monkey-breeding farm were particular favourites among visitors. Abkhaz, Georgians, Greeks, Russians, Turks and others lived here in apparent harmony until recent years when the city was overtaken by civil war and thousands of refugees fled.
Sport & Activities
Formerly the holiday haunt of the privileged elite of the Soviet Union, Georgia is blessed with stunning scenery, a balmy climate and a rich variety of flora and fauna.
Trekking and mountain activities: The mountains to the north and south of the country offer opportunities for a range of trips, from strenuous trekking in the heights of the Caucasus to gentle walking in the lower pastures. It should be noted that political unrest makes certain areas inaccessible and dangerous, notably the breakaway regions of Abkhazia (in the far northwest) and South Ossetia. Areas bordering these regions are also best avoided. The country’s infrastructure can also present problems to those attempting to reach remote areas without their own transport. For these reasons, it is best to arrange trips through a specialist operator. A guide is usually necessary for visits to the mountains, and porters may be hired. Given these restrictions however, the country is a rewarding destination for serious trekkers. The area around Mount Kazbek (or Mkinvartsveri, meaning ‘ice top’), the third highest peak in the Caucasus at 16,504 feet (5033m), offers challenging treks. Accommodation is available in two meteorological stations along the way, and special equipment is necessary to attempt the summit. Further east, the Roshka Valley, with its glaciers, and the Chaukhi Mountains also offer strenuous wilderness treks and stark mountain scenery. Lowland walks are possible in both the north and the south of the country. The area around the ski resort of Gudauri (120km/75 miles north of Tbilisi) makes a good starting point for summer walks through mountain meadows full of flowers. Even in the lowland areas, eagles soar overhead and spectacular views can be had. The mountains in the south and east can offer more gentle walks. These regions are also suitable for horseriding and mountain biking, and there are numerous mountain roads and tracks. Special Caucasian horses bred for their endurance and beauty, such as the Kabardo and the Tusheti, are the traditional means of transport in this area. Trips can be started at the mountain resort of Bakuriani. Gentler rides can be done along the Black Sea coast.
Birdwatching: This is another of Georgia’s attractions. Approximately 360 species can be found, depending on the season, and the number of birds increases considerably during the spring and autumn migrations. Raptors including the bearded vulture, the long-legged buzzard and the white-tailed eagle can be seen in the Caucasus in summer. In the autumn, the wetlands and mountain steppes in the south near the Armenian border harbour white pelicans, white storks, cranes and Caspian snowcocks.
Wintersports: These include skiing, ski touring, heli-skiing and snowboarding. The country’s main resorts are Gudauri and Bakuriani, the latter of which used to be the Soviet Union’s most popular ski resort. Both resorts are suitable for skiiers of all abilities. International competitions are held. Ski mountaineering trips can also be arranged.
Wine tasting: The Kakheti province in the far east of the country is Georgia’s wine-growing region. Apart from being an ancient tradition, drinking wine is also a social skill, with the traditional toast (or Tamada) being the prerogative of the most powerful male at the table. Other age-old rituals surround the harvesting, preparation and consumption of wine, which is usually of high quality. Georgian food is also very good. For further details of specialities, see the Social Profile section.
Social Profile
Food & Drink: According to Georgian legend, when God was distributing land among the peoples of the world, the Georgians were so busy eating and drinking that they lost their place in the queue and there was no land left for them. But when they invited God to join the party, he enjoyed himself so immensely he gave them all the choicest bits of land he had been saving for himself. Georgians pride themselves, with some justification, on being the bons viveurs of the former Soviet Union, and their culinary tradition has survived better than most the dead hand of Soviet mass-catering. The cuisine makes extensive use of walnuts, which are used to thicken soups and sauces (anything including the word satsivi will be served in a rich sauce flavoured with herbs, garlic, walnuts and egg). Walnuts also feature as desserts, coated in caramelised sugar (gozinaki), or in churchkhela, when they are threaded on string then dipped in thickened, sweetened grape juice which is subsequently dried into chewy, flavoursome ‘candles'. There is less emphasis on lamb to the exclusion of other kinds of meat than in other parts of the Caucasus. Roast suckling pig is often served, and beef and chicken are grilled or casseroled in various sauces, one of the commonest forms being chakhokhbili, a stew involving herbs, tomatoes and paprika. Meals usually start with an array of hot and cold dishes which may include spicy grilled liver and other offal, lobio (a bean and walnut salad), marinated aubergines, pkhali (made from young spinach leaves pounded together with spices), khachapuri (consisting of layers of flat bread alternated with melting cheese), not to mention assorted fresh and pickled vegetables and cured meat (basturma). Cafes, restaurants and street-food traditions are all better established in Georgia than in many of the other former Soviet republics, and the markets are full of locally grown fruit and vegetables. Privately-run restaurants, cafes and bars, which began to thrive during the Gorbachev period, were badly hit by the post-independence breakdown of civil order, but in recent times have begun to bounce back. The future looks bright.
Both red and white wine is produced in Georgia. Kindzmareuli, a fruity, red wine, is reputed to have been Stalin's favourite tipple. Akhasheni and Teliani are two of the commoner red wines, fruity and dry respectively. Tsinandali is a dry white wine, as is Gurdzhaani.
Nightlife: Nightlife in the republic is to be found primarily in international hotels. The Georgian State Dancers are highly praised but only occasionally to be glimpsed in Tbilisi, being almost constantly on tour. The Rustaveli Georgian Drama theatre also has a good reputation and is particularly renowned for its Shakespeare productions.
Shopping: Georgian ceramics, embroidery and jewellery are all distinctive, and may be bought in art salons or special tourist shops. Visitors may also develop a liking for locally produced wines and brandies. Antiques such as rugs and icons attract a heavy export duty and must be licensed for export by the Ministry of Culture. Goods acquired in markets or from private individuals will not come with an export licence, whereas official tourist shops usually take responsibility for certification.
Social Conventions: Georgians pride themselves on their reputation for gregariousness and hospitality. Visitors sitting in restaurants are likely to be offered drinks by complete strangers. They will then be invited to raise (and empty) their glasses in response to an endless string of elaborate toasts, preferably interpolating a few suitably enthusiastic toasts of their own into the sequence. Smoking is widespread. Visitors may also be entertained in private homes. On such occasions, gifts such as chocolates, flowers or alcohol are well received. On social occasions foreign women will find themselves the object of immense flattery. Those finding such attentions oppressive should avoid giving any hint of encouragement. Appropriate clothing should be worn when entering a church; visitors should ensure they are not wearing shorts and women should cover their heads. Visitors should also be aware that street crime is far from uncommon. Anyone travelling in the republic should be cautious when venturing out after dark, carry as few valuables as possible, and beware of the risk of being robbed and possibly attacked. Tipping: For service in restaurants, cafes or taxis, the bill is usually rounded up.
Business Profile
Economy: Like all the former Soviet republics, Georgia experienced considerable economic difficulties during the 1990s. Disruption of the centrally organised Soviet trade and supply networks, plus civil war and political instability produced hyper-inflation and a slump in production. Major structural reforms, centring on the transfer of almost all small-scale enterprises to private ownership and a parallel reduction in the economic role of the state, were instituted. The measures have since contributed to strong annual growth for most of the post-Soviet period (it is currently six per cent) and a manageable rate of inflation. Unemployment, however, remains high. A new national currency, the Lari, was introduced in 1995.
The agricultural sector, which accounts for about one-third of total output, produces fruit, tobacco, grain and sugar beet; sheep and goats are widely farmed. There is some heavy industry, notably shipbuilding, but most of Georgia’s industry is light and engaged in food processing and production of fertiliser. Coal and manganese are mined in commercial quantities. The Government aims to establish the main ports of Poti and Batumi as regional transport and re-export hubs, which will also be able to handle oil refining and transhipment. (Part of this plan involves the controversial laying of an oil pipeline across the Black Sea). Further reforms, including the privatisation of major industries such as energy, are planned. In 1992, Georgia joined the IMF, which has been centrally involved in the economic reform programme, the World Bank and the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development as a ‘Country of Operation’. It has also acquired membership of the World Trade Organisation. Turkey is now Georgia’s principal trading partner, followed by Russia, Turkmenistan and Azerbaijan.
Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Georgia, Prospekt Chavchavadze 11, 380079 Tbilisi (tel: (32) 293 375; fax: (32) 235 760; e-mail: ktm@ean.kheta.ge; website: www.gcci.org.ge).
Climate
Hot summers with mild winters, particularly in the southwest. Low temperatures are common in alpine areas. Heaviest rainfall exists in the subtropical southwest.
History and Government
History: Throughout the centuries Georgia has been a victim of the aggression of powerful neighbours. The nation’s history has been a constant struggle for survival, interspersed with brief interludes of peace. Georgia’s conversion to Christianity in the fourth century AD brought it into conflict with the major regional powers. For the next four centuries, despite brief periods of independence, Georgia’s various provinces were vassal states of, successively, Persia, Byzantium and the Arab Caliphs. Towards the end of the ninth century, a gradual process of uniting the provinces began. This was finally completed in 1122 when the regional capital of the Caliphs, Tblisi, fell to King David II. Georgia’s power and influence reached an apex during the late 12th and early 13th centuries under Queen Tamar. The Mongol invasions from 1220 onwards brought this ‘golden age’ to an end. Despite occasional resurgences, Georgia was never able to reassert itself and the fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Turks in 1453 left it isolated from the rest of the Christian world. The Ottomans occupied Transcaucasia in the late 16th century but were driven out by the Iranian Shah Abbas who installed a dynasty of viceroys at Tblisi. Over the next 200 years, the Turks occasionally recovered control of the territory. But at the end of the 18th century, King Erekle II, a descendant of the Bagratids who ruled Georgia in the 12th century, forged a vital alliance with Catherine the Great of Russia, who was then presiding over the southward expansion of her empire. The Bagratid line was deposed by the Russians in 1801 after which the whole region was steadily absorbed into the Russian Empire.
A strong Georgian nationalist movement grew up from around this time, the precursor of the irrepressible Georgian nationalism which has shaped the republic’s history during the Soviet and post-Soviet periods. Briefly independent from 1918 until the invasion of the Red Army in 1921, Georgia distinguished itself by voting in the first Socialist government in the world ever to be elected in free, multi-party elections. Although Stalin was himself a Georgian – his real name was Djugashvili – the republic suffered terribly during the purges of the 1930s and 40s. The national intelligentsia was almost wiped out and it is estimated that ten per cent of the population perished between 1940 and 1945. Nonetheless, many Georgians continue to this day to idolise their most notorious son.
Stalin’s repressive policies failed to stamp out Georgian nationalism, and in 1956 more than 100 people died in a demonstration which purported to be a popular repudiation of Khrushchev’s anti-Stalin speech, but turned into an expression of nationalist discontent. Agitation mounted steadily from the late 1970s until 1989 when, in an episode that was to trigger the final disillusionment with Soviet power, 20 people (most of them women) were killed and hundreds more injured when Soviet troops attacked a nationalist demonstration in Tblisi.
In a referendum held in April 1991, an overwhelming majority voted in favour of independence from the Soviet Union. Forces loyal to Moscow were by now in no mood or condition to resist the popular will. In May, following a formal declaration of independence, presidential elections brought to power (in a landslide victory with 87 per cent of the poll) Zviad Gamsakhurdia, a nationalist intellectual, who had been imprisoned as a dissident during the Soviet era. Incapable of wielding power effectively, Gamsakhurdia’s chaotic government ended within months with his flight into exile to the Black sea port of Sukhumi, where he died in mysterious circumstances in 1994. In March 1992, former Soviet Foreign Minister Eduard Schevardnadze was appointed Chairman of the National Parliament. Schevardnadze had been First Secretary of the Georgian Communist Party from 1972-85, and despite widespread distrust of his historic connections with Moscow, his persuasive nature and substantial international profile – a considerable asset at a time when the country’s very existence was barely recognised by the outside world – allowed him to assume the presidency in 1992, which he has held ever since.
Schevardnadze’s immediate task was to suppress secessionist revolts in the outlying Georgian provinces of Abkhazia (where Gamsakhurdia was located) and South Ossetia. In 1994, after two years of sporadic fighting, South Ossetia was brought back into the fold, while the government negotiated an uneasy settlement with the Abkhazian rebels. Abkhazia is now effectively an autonomous region of Georgia. From 1995 onwards, the Government was able to devote more attention to the economy and the domestic political situation. Nonetheless, several assassination attempts (most recently in February 1998) against Schevardnadze have served as a reminder of the depth of bitterness among his secessionist opponents. In November 1995, Schevardnadze was triumphantly re-elected with 70 per cent of the vote and a clear mandate for a further five-year term. Simultaneous elections to the newly-established parliament delivered a large majority to Schevardnadze’s political vehicle, the Georgia Citizens’ Union (SMK, Sakartvelos Mokalaketa Kavshiri). The most recent parliamentary poll in November 1999 returned the Citizens’ Union once again, with a small absolute majority. The chairmanship of the parliament, the country’s second most important political post, has been through a number of hands since then. The incumbent as of August 2002 is Nino Budzhanadze who took office after the sacking of the entire government by Schevardnadze in November 2001. Schevardnadze interpreted the electoral results in part as an endorsement of the pro-Western and pro-NATO course which he has followed in foreign policy. (In May and June 2002, to Russian fury, the Georgian army held a series of joint exercises with US special forces and other NATO units under the auspices of the ‘Partnership for Peace’ programme.) Schevardnadze himself was re-elected to a further five-year term in April 2000. Nevertheless, Gamsakhurdia (now something of a martyr figure) and other opposition figures retain widespread support. That, along with the country’s chronic economic difficulties and a recent government crackdown on opposition politicians and media, has fuelled several outbreaks of civil unrest.
Government: Under the Constitution of August 1995, the President of Georgia (who is Head of State, Head of the Executive and Commander of the Armed Forces) is directly elected for a five-year term. The Government (headed by the Chairman of the Parliament) is accountable to the President. The supreme legislative body is the 235-member Sakartvelos Parlamenti (Georgia Parliament) which is elected every four years, partly by proportional representation and partly in single-seat constituencies.
Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.
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