The Cyclades
Lying east of the Peloponnese and southeast of the coast of Attica in the Aegean, a total of 30 islands make up the Cyclades, the best-known being Mykonos and Santorini. Other popular islands are Andros, Tinos, Delos, Paros and Naxos, while the small islands of the eastern Cyclades are less visited and offer only basic amenities. All can be reached by ferry from Piraeus, and several have small airports with daily fights to Athens through summer.
ANDROS: (Piraeus 89 nautical miles). Most northerly of the Cyclades, Andros is a green mountainous island planted with olive groves, vineyards and pine trees. Its capital, Andros Town, is made up of typical white cottages, plus a number of neo-classical-style town houses and the remains of a 13th-century Venetian castle. Worth visiting are the Archaeological Museum, displaying a rich collection of finds from the excavations on the island; the Museum of Modern Art, staging exhibitions of contemporary Greek artists; and the Maritime Museum.
There are many fine beaches, the largest being at Batsi, which also has several small hotels. Other places of interest are Paleopolis, the island’s ancient port, much of which now lies below the sea, though some ruins can still be seen; Panachrantou Monastery at Falika; and the Byzantine Church of Taxiarchon in Messaria. Apikia is known for its mineral springs. The principal port is Gavrio, west of Andros Town.
TINOS: (Piraeus 86 nautical miles). The island’s largest settlement, Tinos Town, is best known as a pilgrimage site. Each year on 25 March and 15 August, thousands of believers gather here to pay their respect to an icon of Our Lady (said to perform miracles) kept in the Church of the Annunciate Virgin (Evangelistria). The town’s second attraction is the Archaeological Museum, exhibiting finds from the ancient Temple of Poseidon. Remains of the temple itself can be seen at Kionia, north east of town, where there is also a good beach. Buses connect Tinos Town to the island’s numerous villages, the most interesting being Pirgos, noted for its sculpture school and marble workshops, plus another pleasant beach.
MYKONOS: (Piraeus 95 nautical miles). The most visited and most expensive of all the Greek islands, Mykonos is known for its lively nightlife and some of Greece’s best discotheques. It is now especially popular among the international gay community. Mykonos Town (also known as Hora) comprises a modern harbour, whitewashed houses and churches, shops selling local arts and crafts, small tavernas and cafes, and is backed by a hill with five thatched windmills. The Paraportiani Church, a complex of four chapels, is considered to be an architectural masterpiece. The Archaeological Museum exhibits finds excavated from the necropolis on the nearby islet of Rhenia. There is also a Folklore Museum. Interesting excursions can be made to the monasteries of Agios Panteleimon, close to Mykonos Town, and the Tourliani Monastery, close to the old fishing village of Ano Mera. Beaches range from cosmopolitan to secluded, the most popular being Agios Stefanos and Platis Gialos. On the south side of the island lie several unspoilt nudist beaches, the best known being Paradise and Super Paradise, which can be reached by boat from Plati Gialos. It is also possible to visit the uninhabited island of Delos (see Delos section), by boat, from Mykonos Town.
Through summer, there are daily flights from Mykonos to Athens.
DELOS: (Mykonos 6 nautical miles). The religious and political centre of the Aegean in ancient times, the tiny island of Delos is said to have been the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. Today uninhabited, it is possible to visit this superb archaeological site, arriving by boat from Mykonos. Star attractions include the Avenue of the Lions, featuring five crouching stone lions, guardians of the Sacred Lake, and the Sanctuary of Apollo, made up of three temples. The Archaeological Museum exhibits archaic, Classical, Hellenistic and Roman sculptures, including the Archaic Sphinx of the Naxians and Acroteria (Victories) from the Temple of the Athenians, found in excavations on the site.
PAROS: (Piraeus 95 nautical miles). The island’s hinterland has undulating hills that contain the famous Parian marble. It is becoming an increasingly popular tourist destination, thanks to its sand beaches, unspoilt fishing villages, reasonably priced hotels and lively nightlife. Parikia, the island’s picturesque capital and main port, is built on the site of the ancient city. There is a ruined Venetian castle and close to the port stands the impressive sixth-century Byzantine church of Ekatondapiliani (Church of a Hundred Doors). A number of good beaches lie near Naousia, the island’s second port, notably Kolimbithres, where the rugged coast forms inlets with golden sands. Of the island’s monasteries, Zoodohos Pigi Longovarda and Christou Tou Dassous are the most significant.
Antiparos is separated from Paros by a narrow channel. The main attraction on this small island is its famous cave with stalactites. There are also several hotels and a number of good sand beaches.
Through summer, there are daily flights from Paros to Athens.
NAXOS: (Piraeus 103 nautical miles). The largest and most fertile island in the Cyclades islands, Naxos lies almost in the centre of the Aegean. The capital and main port, Naxos Town (also known as Hora) is crowned by the ruins of a Venetian castle. A little way out of town, the Pirgos Bellonia (Bellonian Tower) was built under Venetian rule (note the Lion of St Mark emblem) as a refuge from pirates. The island is particularly noted for its numerous sand beaches, and just south of Naxos Town lie the bathing areas of Agios Georgios, Agios Prokopios and Agia Anna. The island’s second town and port, Apolonas, also has an excellent beach. The inland village of Halki has a medieval fortress and several Byzantine churches.
Through summer, there are daily flights from Naxos to Athens.
SANTORINI: (Piraeus 127 nautical miles). Considered by many as the most dramatically beautiful of all the Greek islands, Santorini (also known as Thira) was formed by the eruption of a now dormant volcano around 1600 BC. Arrival by ferry brings one to the west side of the island, with the whitewashed cliff top villages of Fira (the capital) and Ia (the Aegean’s most photographed town) overlooking the circular caldera (a huge depression created by a volcanic explosion). A steep winding path leads up from the harbour of Skala to Fira, where one finds many excellent hotels, chic restaurants and bars, and a vibrant nightlife. The Archaeology Museum, displaying finds from the excavations at Akrotiri, is worth a visit. From Fira, a mountain path leads along the cliff edge to Ia, noted for its beautiful white buildings with blue domes. On the east side of the island, lie the archaeological remains of Ancient Thira, a Dorian city dating back to the ninth century BC. Akrotiri is also of great interest for the relics of the Minoan civilisation which were buried under lava following the eruption of 1600 BC: about 40 buildings have been uncovered to date. The 18th-century Monastery of Profitas Ilias on the island’s summit and the swimming beaches of Perissa and Kamari are other attractions.
Through summer, there are daily flights from Santorini to Athens.
KEA: (Piraeus 42 nautical miles). Kea is dotted with small cultivated valleys, sandy beaches, fruit orchards, clusters of whitewashed houses, several windmills and a large number of churches. A short distance inland from the port of Korissia lies the chief settlement Hora (also known as Kea Town). The Convent of Panagia Kastriani, overlooking Otzia Bay, is worth visiting. At Koundouro and Pisses there are good swimming beaches.
KITHNOS: (Piraeus 54 nautical miles). A small island, the harsh landscape of Kithnos is softened by vineyards and fig trees. Most hotels are found in the small port towns of Loutra (noted for its warm medical springs) and Merihas.
The main town, Hora (also known as Messaria) is built into a barren hillside. White Cycladic cottages, churches with frescoes and icons and the islanders’ hospitality combine to make Kithnos increasingly popular with visitors in search of beauty and quiet.
SERIFOS: (Piraeus 70 nautical miles) Ships calling at the island anchor at Livadi which is surrounded by gardens and orchards. From here the road climbs up to Hora (the chief settlement) where narrow paved alleys are lined by typical Cycladic houses and churches. Higher still stands the old Venetian fortress. Attractive beaches are to be found at Mega Livadi and Koutalas.
SIROS: (Piraeus 80 nautical miles). Siros lies at the heart of the Cycladic complex. Its capital and main port, Ermoupolis, has many notable neo-classical buildings, such as the Town Hall and the Apollo Municipal Theatre (which is a miniature copy of La Scala in Milan), plus spacious public squares and impressive churches. Upper Siros retains a strong medieval flavour with city walls, narrow cobbled streets and arcades.
SIFNOS: (Piraeus 78 nautical miles). Sifnos is the most popular of the western Cyclades. An attractive drive inland from the port of Kamares leads to the main settlement, Apollonia, made up of distinctive Cycladic houses, a number of notable churches, and the Museum of Folklore. Other places to see are the atmospheric medieval town of Kastro, and the village of Artemonas, built on gently undulating hills surrounded by picturesque windmills. There are good beaches at Faros and Vathy.
MILOS: (Piraeus 82 nautical miles) This beautiful island has been inseparably associated with Venus since a statue of the goddess of love, which is now in the Louvre in Paris, was found here during the 19th century. A copy of the statue can be seen in the Archaeological Museum in the chief settlement, Plaka. Also of interest in Plaka are the remains of a hilltop Frankish castle and the 13th-century Byzantine Church of Thalassitras. Close to Plaka, at Tripiti, there are extensive early-Christian catacombs. The best beaches and accommodation are found at Apollonia and Adamas (the island’s port), and a number of sea caves, notably Sikia (also known as the Blue Cave) and Kleftiko, can be visited by boat.
IOS: (Piraeus 114 nautical miles) The chief settlement of this extremely popular island, Hora (also known as Ios Town), stands above the small harbour of Ormos and the attractive swimming beaches of Yalos and Milopotas. Hora boasts whitewashed cottages, a number of interesting churches and the ruins of a 15th-century hilltop fortress. Each year, thanks to a steady influx of visitors, numerous summer discotheques open up in Hora.
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