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Greece
Overview
‘From Eurydice to the Euro’
Greece may be the home of Zeus and his fellow Olympians, but at first glance its bustling, traffic-ridden capital, Athens, is anything but divine. Yet here, as all over Greece, are reminders of the country’s glory – from Athens’ Parthenon and Delphi’s Temple of Apollo, to the ruins on Crete of the Minóan city of Knossós, a civilisation reaching even further back into history.
Scattered throughout the calm blue waters of the Aegean are the islands, each with its own special story. Visit Zakynthos in the spring to see why it is ‘the island of flowers’, or the volcanic Santorini, where the blackness of the sand accentuates the brilliant whiteness of the villages. The serenity of islands like Skópelos contrasts with the hedonistic party islands such as Myknos and Páros where the worship of Dionysus the god of revelry continues to the beat of garage and house music.
It is easy to forget that from this fertile land of mythology, olive groves and retsina, sprang political, philosophical and artistic ideas that shaped the whole course of western civilisation. Greece today offers the traveller the comforts of modern Europe in close proximity to the stark beauty of the ancient world.
Juliet Ferguson
General Information
Area: 131,957 sq km (50,949 sq miles).
Population: 10,516,366 (1998).
Population Density: 79.7 per sq km.
Capital: Athens. Population: 772, 072 (1991).
GEOGRAPHY: Greece is situated in southeast Europe on the Mediterranean. The mainland consists of the following regions: Central Greece, Peloponnese, Thessaly (east/central), Epirus (west), Macedonia (north/northwest) and Thrace (northwest). Euboea, the second largest of the Greek islands, lying to the east of the central region, is also considered to be part of the mainland region. The Peloponnese peninsula is separated from the northern mainland by the Isthmus of Corinth. The northern mainland is dissected by high mountains (such as the Pindus) that extend southwards towards a landscape of fertile plains, pine-forested uplands and craggy, scrub-covered foothills. The islands account for one-fifth of the land area of the country. The majority are thickly clustered in the Aegean between the Greek and Turkish coasts. The Ionian Islands are the exception; they are scattered along the west coast in the Ionian Sea. The Aegean archipelago includes the Dodecanese, lying off the Turkish coast, of which Rhodes is the best known; the Northeast Aegean group, including Lemnos, Lesvos, Chios, Samos and Ikaria; the Sporades, off the central mainland; and the Cyclades, comprising 39 islands (of which only 24 are inhabited). Crete, the largest island, is not included in any formal grouping. For fuller descriptions of these regions and islands, see the Resorts & Excursions section.
Government: Republic. Head of State: President Konstantinos Stefanopoulos since 1995. Head of Government: Prime Minister Konstantinos Simitis since 1996.
Language: Greek (Ellenika). Most people connected with tourism and those of a younger generation will speak some English, German, Italian or French.
Religion: Ninety-seven per cent Greek Orthodox, with Muslim, Roman Catholic and Jewish minorities.
Time: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Round two-pin plugs are used.
Telephone
IDD is available throughout the mainland and islands. The Greek telecommunication network supplier is Organismos Telepikinonion Ellados (OTE). Country code: 30, followed by (10) for Athens, (310) for Thessaloniki and (810) for Heraklion. Outgoing international code: 00.
Mobile telephone
GSM 900 and 1800 networks exist. Coverage is good around the major towns on the mainland and on many islands. Main operators include Cosmote (website: www.cosmote.gr), Stet Hellas (website: www.telestet.gr) and Vodafone (website: www.vodafone.gr).
Fax
Main post offices and large hotels have facilities.
Telegram
There are telegram facilities in main post offices and large hotels in all Greek cities and the major islands.
Internet
Internet cafes are available in the main cities, including Athens, Thessaloniki and the islands Crete, Kos, Mykonos, Rhodes and Skiathos. ISPs include Panafon, STET, Hellas Online (website: www.hol.gr) and Cosmote.
Post
All letters, postcards, newspapers and periodicals will automatically be sent by airmail. There are Poste Restante facilities at most post offices throughout the country. Advance notice is required at all Athens branches except for the central office at 180 Eolou Street. A passport must be shown on collection. Post office hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1400, Sat 0800-1330.
Press
There are 18 daily newspapers in Athens including Ta Nea, Eleftherotypia and Eleftheros Typos. Athens News and Athens Daily Post are both published daily in English.
BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change.
BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice):
A service for the Greek islands is available on 1323kHz/226.7m.
Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov):
Passport/Visa
| | Passport Required? | Visa Required? | Return Ticket Required? | | British | Yes | No | No | | Australian | Yes | No | Yes | | Canadian | Yes | No | Yes | | USA | Yes | No | Yes | | OtherEU | 1 | No | No | | Japanese | Yes | No | Yes |
Note: Greece is a signatory to the 1995 Schengen Agreement. For further details about passport/visa regulations within the Schengen area see the introductory section How to Use this Guide.
Entry restrictions: (a) Greece refuses admission and transit to holders of passports issued by Bophutatswana, Ciskei, Transkei, Venda; holders of travel documents issued by Macedonia (Former Yugolslav Republic), unless accompanied by a special visa form; holders of Somalian passports issued after 23 January 1991; Norwegian Fremmedpass or Reisbevis; Ethiopian emergency passports; holders of travel documents issued by the area of Cyprus not controlled by the government of Cyprus; holders of Turkish travel documents with visas or stamps indicatig previous or planned visits to Cyprus. (b) Nationals of CIS countries, China (PR), Cuba, Korea (Dem Rep) and Vietnam must register with the Aliens Department of the nearest police station within 48 hours of arrival.
PASSPORTS: Passport valid for at least three months after period of intended stay required by all except:
(a) 1. EU nationals with a valid national ID card and with sufficient funds for their length of stay;
(b) nationals of Iceland, Liechtenstein, Malta, Monaco, Norway and Switzerland with valid national ID cards.
VISAS: Required by all except the following:
(a) nationals of the countries referred to in the chart above for a period of up to three months;
(b) nationals of Andorra, Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Brunei, Bulgaria, Chile, Costa Rica, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, Estonia, Honduras, Hong Kong (SAR), Hungary, Iceland, Israel, Korea (Rep), Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Macau (SAR), Malaysia, Malta, Mexico, Monaco, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, Poland, Romania, St Kitts & Nevis, San Marino, Singapore, Slovak Republic, Switzerland, Uruguay, Vatican City and Venezuela for a period of up to three months;
(c) those continuing their journey to a third country within 48 hours provided holding tickets with reserved seats and other documents for their onward journey except: nationals of Afghanistan, Angola, Bangladesh, Congo (Dem Rep), Eritrea, Ethiopia, Ghana, India, Iran, Iraq, Nigeria, Pakistan, Somalia, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Syria and Turkey who always need a visa, even if transiting by the same aircraft.
Note: The above list is subject to change at short notice; please check with the Consulate or Consular section at Embassy before travelling.
Types of visa and cost: A uniform type of visa, the Schengen visa is issued for tourist, business and private visits. There are three types of Schengen visa: Short-stay, Transit and Airport Transit. Prices depend on nationality and type of visa. Contact the Consulate/Consular section at Embassy for further details.
Note: Spouses and children of EU nationals (providing spouse’s passport and the original marriage certificate are produced), and nationals of some other countries, receive their visas free of charge (enquire at Embassy for details).
Validity: Short-stay (single- and multiple-entry): valid for six months from date of issue for stays of maximum 90 days per entry. Transit (single- and multiple-entry): valid for a maximum of five days per entry, including the day of arrival. Visas cannot be extended and a new application must be made each time.
Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section. Travellers visiting just one Schengen country should apply to the Consulate of that country; travellers visiting more than one Schengen country should apply to the Consulate of the country chosen as the main destination or the country they will enter first (if they have no main destination).
Application requirements: (a) Passport valid for at least three months after expiry date of visa, with blank pages to affix visa. (b) Completed application form with registered, self-addressed envelope. (c) One passport-size photo. (d) Fee (payable in cash or postal order only). (e) Return or onward ticket or proof of booking/itinerary from travel agent. (f) Proof of sufficient funds to cover stay (bank statement or travellers cheques). (g) Proof of reason for visit; a letter of reference from employer, detailing wages and letter of invitation from Greek company for business trips; a letter from school for school trip. If self-employed, a letter from a solicitor or an accountant.
Note: Applications can be made in person only. A limited number of visas are issued each day on a first-come, first-served basis.
Working days required: At least three weeks.
Temporary residence: Apply to the Aliens Department in Athens.
Important note: Persons arriving in and departing from Greece on a charter flight risk having the return portion of their ticket invalidated by the authorities if, at any time during their stay, they leave Greece and remain overnight or longer in another country.
Money
Single European currency (Euro): The Euro is now the official currency of 12 EU member states (including Greece). The first Euro coins and notes were introduced in January 2002; the Greek Drachma was still in circulation until 28 February 2002, when it was completely replaced by the Euro. Euro (€) = 100 cents. Notes are in denominations of €500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5. Coins are in denominations of €2, 1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1 cents.
Currency exchange: Foreign currency can be exchanged at all banks, savings banks and bureaux de change. Exchange rates can fluctuate from one bank to another. Many UK banks offer differing exchange rates depending on the denominations of currency being bought or sold. Check with banks for details and current rates.
Credit & debit cards: Diners Club, Visa, American Express, MasterCard and other major credit cards are widely accepted (although less so in petrol stations), as well as Eurocheque cards. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available.
Travellers cheques: All major currencies are widely accepted and can be exchanged easily at banks. Generally, banks in Greece charge a commission of two per cent with a minimum of €0.15 and a maximum of €13.21 on the encashment of travellers cheques. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in Euros, Pounds Sterling or US Dollars.
Currency restrictions: The import of local and foreign currency is not restricted provided any amount exceeding €10,000 is declared on arrival. The export of local and foreign currency is allowed although amounts over €2000 require an Import Currency Declaration Form issued on arrival, and amounts over €10,000 require a Certificate of Tax Clearance or Currency Declaration Form (on import).
Exchange rate indicators
The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Euro against Sterling and the US Dollar:
| Date | May ’02 | Aug ’02 | Nov ’02 | Feb ’03 | | €1= | £0.63 | £0.64 | £0.63 | £0.68 | | €1= | $0.92 | $0.97 | $1.00 | $1.08 |
Banking hours: Mon-Thurs 0800-1400, Fri 0800-1330. Banks on the larger islands tend to stay open in the afternoon and some during the evening to offer currency exchange facilities during the tourist season. The GNTO bureau in Athens can give full details.
Duty Free
The following goods may be imported into Greece by visitors without incurring customs duty by:
(a) Residents of European countries with goods bought duty-free outside the EU:
800 cigarettes or 200 cigars or 400 cigarillos or 1kg of tobacco; 10l of alcoholic beverage or 90l of wine and 110l of beer; there is no limit for perfume.
(b) Residents of countries outside Europe with goods obtained duty-free outside the EU: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 100 cigarillos or 250g of tobacco; 1l of alcoholic beverage over 22 per cent or 2l of alcohol beverages of 22 per cent or less and 2l of wine and liquers; 50g of perfume and 250ml of eau de cologne; gifts up to a value of €175 per person.
Note: The tobacco and alcohol allowances listed above are not available to passengers under the age of 18.
Restricted items: It is forbidden to bring in plants with soil. One windsurfboard per person may be imported/exported duty-free, if registered in the passport on arrival. The export of antiquities is prohibited without the express permission of the Archaeological Service in Athens. Those who ignore this will be prosecuted.
Abolition of Duty-free Goods within the EU: On 30 June 1999, the sale of duty-free alcohol and tobacco at airports and at sea was abolished in all 15 EU member states. Although there are now no limits imposed on importing tobacco and alcohol products from one EU country to another, (with the exceptions of Denmark, Finland and Sweden, where limits are imposed), travellers should note that they may be required to prove at customs that the goods purchased are for personal use only.
Public Holidays
Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Jan 6 Epiphany. Mar 10 Orthodox Shrove Monday. Mar 25 Independence Day. Apr 25 Orthodox Good Friday. Apr 28 Orthodox Easter Monday. May 1 Labour Day. Jun 16 Day of the Holy Spirit. Aug 15 Assumption. Oct 28 Ochi Day. Dec 25-26 Christmas. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Jan 6 Epiphany. Feb 23 Orthodox Shrove Monday. Mar 25 Independence Day. Apr 9 Orthodox Good Friday. Apr 12 Orthodox Easter Monday. May 1 Labour Day. May 31 Day of the Holy Spirit. Aug 15 Assumption. Oct 28 Ochi Day. Dec 25-26 Christmas.
Health
| | Special Precautions | Certificate Required | | Yellow Fever | No | 1 | | Cholera | No | No | | Typhoid and Polio | No | N/A | | Malaria | No | N/A |
1: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from all travellers over six months of age coming from infected areas.
Food & drink: Water quality varies from area to area, depending on the source, but in most regions is excellent. Bottled water is available and is advised for the first few weeks of the stay. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Local meat, poultry, seafood, fruit and vegetables are considered safe to eat.
Other risks: Visitors to forested areas should consider vaccination for tick-borne encephalitis.
Health care: There is a reciprocal health agreement with the United Kingdom, but it is poorly implemented and it is an essential precaution to take out holiday insurance. Refunds for medical treatment are theoretically available from the Greek Social Insurance Foundation on presentation of form E111 (see the Health appendix).
Local chemists can diagnose and supply a wide selection of drugs. There are often long waits for treatment at public hospitals. Hospital facilities on outlying islands are sometimes sparse, although many ambulances without adequate facilities have air-ambulance backup. For emergencies, ring 166 (public ambulance).
Travel - International
AIR: Greece’s national airline is Olympic Airways (OA) (website: www.olympic-airways.gr). British Airways make scheduled flights to Greece. Delta Airlines operate daily flights from New York to Athens.
Approximate flight times: From Athens to London is 5 hours; from Rhodes is 5 hours 15 minutes; from Corfu is 4 hours; from Heraklion is 7 hours 50 minutes; and from Skiathos is 6 hours 10 minutes (all flight times include a stop-over). From Athens to Los Angeles is 15 hours 10 minutes; to New York is 12 hours 45 minutes; to Singapore is 13 hours; to Sydney is 24 hours 30 minutes.
International airports: Athens (ATH) (Elfetherios Veniselos) has been newly constructed, replacing all air traffic from the old airport. Located 27km (17 miles) northeast of the city, there is a six-lane motorway linking the two, and regular airport buses running 24 hours from the centre and the port of Piraeus. Airport facilities include duty-free shops, car hire (Avis, Budget, Hertz, Europcar and Sixt), 24-hour banks, cash machines, bureaux de change, bar and restaurant facilities, post office, business centre and hotel.
Heraklion (HER) (Crete) is 5km (3 miles) from the city. Bus and taxi services are available. Airport facilities include a cafe and a duty-free shop.
Thessaloniki (SKG) (Macedonia) is 16km (10 miles) from the city. Regular coach and taxi services are available. There are duty-free shops, restuarants, bars, banks/bureaux de change, car hire (Alamo, Avis and Hertz) and a post office.
Corfu (CFU) (Kerkira) is 3km (2 miles) from the city. Regular coach and taxi services are available. There is a duty-free shop, cafeteria and bar.
Rhodes (RHO) (Paradisi) is 16km (10 miles) from the city. Coach and taxi services are available. Airport facilities include a duty-free shop, car hire (Avis, Rent-a-car), bank and bureau de change, cafe and a 24-hour bar.
There are also international airports at Chania (CHQ), Kalamata (KLX), Karpathos (AOK), Kavala (KVA), Kefalonia (EFL), Kos (KGS), Lesbos (Mytilini) (MJT), Mykonos (JMK), Preveza (Lefkos) (PVK), Thessaloniki (SKG), Samos (SMI), Skiathos (JSI), Thira (Santorini) (JTR) and Zakynthos (ZTH), most of which serve predominantly summer traffic.
Departure tax: €12,15.
SEA: The major Greek ports are Piraeus, Thessaloniki, Volos, Igoumenitsa, Heraklion, Corfu, Patras and Rhodes. Shipping and ferryboat lines link these ports with Italy, Cyprus, Croatia, Egypt, Israel, Turkey and Russia. Greek ports are used by a number of cruise lines including Epirotiki, K Lines, Celebrity Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Princess Cruises, Silversea, Holland America Line, Costa Cruises, Festival Cruises, Med Sun Cruises and Swan Hellenic. The Greek/Hellenic National Tourism Organisation can give full details (see Contact Addresses section).
A car ferry links the Italian ports of Brindisi, Igoumenitsa, Corfu, Venice, Trieste and Ancona with Patras and Piraeus. There are also services from Heraklion to Ancona and Brindisi; from Corfu to Bari, Brindisi and Trieste; and from Rhodes to Ancona. During the summer months there are also services from Ithaca and from Cephalonia to Brindisi.
Ferries also run from Piraeus to Haifa in Israel and to Istanbul in Turkey.
RAIL: The national railway company is Hellenic Railways Organisation Ltd (OSE) (website: www.osenet.gr). The following continental rail services run from London to Athens: Acropolis Express: London–Paris–Milan–Trieste–Belgrade–Athens. Hellas Express: London–Amsterdam–Cologne– Bonn–Stuttgart–Munich–Salzburg–Zagreb–Belgrade–Nis–Athens. Another way to travel from the UK is to take the Eurostar through the channel tunnel, from London to either Brussels or Paris, both of which have onward connections to Greece. For further information and reservations contact Eurostar (tel: 0870 6000 792 (travel agents) or 08705 186 186 (public; within the UK) or +44 1233 617 575 (public; outside the UK); website: www.eurostar.com); or Rail Europe (tel: 08705 848 848). Travel agents can obtain refunds for unused tickets from Eurostar Trade Refunds, Second Floor, Kent House, 81 Station Road, Ashford, Kent TN23 1PD, UK. Complaints and comments may be sent to Eurostar Customer Relations, Eurostar House, Waterloo Station, London SE1 8SE, UK. General enquiries and information requests must be made by telephone. Rail passes: Inter-Rail tickets, for those aged 26 and under, include rail travel within Greece, but a supplement will be added for couchettes; the ticket does not include the cost of ferries between the mainland, other countries or islands, but certain shipping lines offer a discount to ticket holders. Prices for those aged over 26 are approximately 40 per cent higher. For passengers wishing to make multiple train journeys within Europe, the EuroDomino travel card offers reduced prices on various journeys to the destination of their choice.
ROAD: It is possible to ferry cars across to one of the major ports of entry or to enter overland. Points of overland entry are from the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia via Evzoni, and Niki; from Bulgaria via Promahonas or Kastanies and Kipi. From Yugoslavia the route is via Italy (Trieste), Austria (Graz) and Belgrade. The journey from northern France to Athens is over 3200km (2000 miles). For car-ferry information, see details under Sea above. Bus: There are routes from Athens via Thessaloniki to Sofia, Paris, Dortmund and Istanbul. Information and bookings are available from terminals in Athens at 6 Sina Street (tel: (10) 362 4402; 1 Karolou Street (tel: (10) 529 7777) and 17 Filellinon Street (tel: (10) 323 6747); also at Thessaloniki rail station. Eurolines, departing from Victoria Coach Station in London, serves destinations in Greece. For further information, contact Eurolines (4 Cardiff Road, Luton, Bedfordshire, L41 1PP; tel: (08705) 143 219; fax: (01582) 400 694; website: www.eurolines.com or www.gobycoach.com).
Travel - Internal
AIR: The national airline, Olympic Airways flies from Athens to Alexandroupolis, Astypalaia, Chania (Crete), Chios, Heraklion, Ikaria, Ioannina, Kalamata, Karpathos, Kassos, Kastellorizo Kastoria, Kavala, Kefaloniá, Kerkira (Corfu), Kithira, Kos, Kozani, Lemnos, Leros, Milos, Mykonos, Mytilini, Paros, Preveza, Rhodes, Samos, Santorini (Thira), Siros, Sitia, Skiathos, Skiros, Thessaloniki, and Zakinthos; from Rhodes to Heraklion, Karpathos, Kassos, Kastellorizo, Kos, Mykonos, and Santorini (Thira); from Chios to Mykonos, Samos and Thessaloniki; from Heraklion to Santorini (Thira), Mykonos and Paros; from Karpathos to Kassos and Sitia; from Kefaloniá to Zakinthos; from Kos to Leros and Samos; from Mykonos to Mytilini; and from Thessaloniki to Chania, Heraklion, Ioannina, Kavala Kerkira, Kos, Larissa, Lemnos, Mykonos, Mytilini, Rhodes, Samos and Santorini. There are also regular services to the Greek Aegean Islands (including Cyclades, Dodecanissa, North Aegean Sea and the Sporades).
Departure tax: €8,51.
SEA: It is both cheap and easy to travel around the islands. There are ferry services on many routes, with sailings most frequent during the summer. The main ports are Attica, Piraeus and Rafina, although there are regular sailings to the islands from the smaller ports of Patras, Kyllini, Thessaloniki, Igoumenitsa, Alexandroupolis, Kavala and Volos. Tickets can be bought from the shipping lines’ offices located around the quaysides. In major ports the larger lines have offices in the city centre. There are two classes of ticket (First Class and Economy Class) which offer varying degrees of comfort; couchette cabins can be booked for the longer voyages or those wishing to avoid the sun. Most ships have restaurant facilities. During high season it is wise to buy tickets in advance, as inter-island travel is very popular. Routes from Piraeus: There are regular sailings to the following ports: Dodecanese: Astipalaia, Chalki, Kalymnos, Karpathos, Kassos, Kastelorizo, Kos, Leros, Lipsi, Nissiros, Rhodes, Symi, Patmos, Rhodes and Tilos. Cyclades: Aegiali and Katapola (both on Amorgos), Anafi, Donoussa, Folegandros, Heraklia, Ios, Kimolos, Kythnos, Koufonissia, Milos, Naxos, Mykonos, Paros, Santorini, Schinoussa, Serifos, Sifnos, Sikinos, Siros and Tinos. Peloponnese: Gytheion, Hermioni, Kithira, Methana, Monemvassia and Porto Heli. Saronic Gulf Islands: Aegina, Hydra, Poros and Spetses. Crete: Agios Nikolaos, Chania, Heraklion, Kastelli, Rethymnon and Sitia. Samos: Karlovassi and Vathi. North Eastern Aegean Islands: Agios Kirykos (Ikaria), Evdilos (Ikaria), Chios, Limnos, Mitilini (Lesvos) and Psara. Northern Greece: Kavala and Thessaloniki. Check sailing times either with individual lines, the Greek/Hellenic National Tourist Organisation, or in Piraeus upon arrival in Greece. Routes from Rafina: There are local services from Rafina (near Athens) to: Agios Efstratios, Amorgos, Andros, Chalkida (summer only) Chios, Donoussa, Heraklia, Karistos (Evia), Kavala, Koufonissi, Kythnos, Limnos, Marmari (Evia), Milos, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Schinoussa, Serifos, Sifnos, Syros, Thessaloniki and Tinos. Other routes: These include Agia Marina–Nea Styra; Perama–Salamis; Rio–Antirio; Aedipsos–Arkitsa; Eretria–Oropos; Glifa–Agiokambos; Patras–Ithaca; Patras–Kefalonia (Sami); Patras–Corfu; Patras–Paxi; Preveza–Aktion; Igoumenitsa–Corfu; Corfu–Paxi; Kyllini–Zante; Kyllini–Cephalonia (Poros); Kavala–Thassos (Limenas); Kavala–Thassos (Prinos); Keramoti–Thassos; Alexandroupolis–Samothrace and Lavrion–Kea. Hydrofoil: A hydrofoil service (also called the Flying Dolphins) offers a fast and efficient service from Piraeus, travelling to many of the nearby islands. Although this is somewhat more expensive than travelling by ferry, journey times are cut drastically. There are also fast hydrofoil services from Zea Marina (Piraeus), Lavrion, Agios Konstandinos, Volos, Kimi (Evia), Thessaloniki and Gytheion. For further information on various ferry and hydrofoil timetables, contact Hellas Flying Dolphins: Two Aetolikou Street, 185 45 Piraeus (tel: (10) 422 5100; fax: (10) 413 1111; website: www.dolphins.gr). Yachts: Numerous types of yachts and sailing vessels can be chartered or hired with or without crews. ‘Flotilla holidays’ are popular, and the Greek/Hellenic National Tourism Organisation (see Contact Addresses section) has a full list of companies running this type of holiday.
RAIL: The two main railway stations in Athens are Larissa (with trains to northern Greece, Evia and Europe) and Peloponnissos (with trains to the Peloponnese). Train information and tickets are available from the Hellenic Railways Organisation (OSE) in Athens (tel: (10) 529 8739) or in Thessaloniki (tel: (310) 538 367; website: www.osenet.gr). Travelling north, there are regular daily trains from Athens to Thessaloniki, Livadia, Paleofarsala, Larissa, Plati, Edessa, Florina, Seres, Drama, Komotini and Alexandroupolis (connections from Thessaloniki and Larissa). Travelling south, there are regular daily trains from Athens to Kiato, Xylokastra, Diakofto, Patras, Olympia, Argos, Tripoli, Megalopolis and Kalamata.
Cheap fares: Mini-group tickets (two to five adults and one or more child) offer 25-40 per cent off the normal fare. Hellenic Tourpass: valid for ten, 20 and 30 days and issued to single, group and family travellers. They entitle the holder to unlimited travel on trains (second class) for a reduced cost. Prices depend on the number of passengers and duration of validity. Other reductions available for passengers residing outside Europe, include Eurail and Eurail Youthpass cards. Senior Citizen Travel Cards: Entitle passengers over 60 years of age to a 50 per cent reduction on rail travel and five free trips. The cards are valid for one year. Group Tickets: Entitle passengers to a 50 per cent reduction for groups of at least ten persons. Family Travel Card: Entitles families to 25-50 per cent reduction on rail travel. For further information on the above schemes, contact the the Hellenic Railways Organisation (OSE).
ROAD: Greece has a good road network on the whole, totalling approximately 116,150km (72,174 miles), mostly paved. Traffic drives on the right. Examples of some distances from Athens: to Thessaloniki, 511km (318 miles); to Corinth, 85km (53 miles); to Igoumenitsa, 587km (365 miles); and to Delphi, 165km (103 miles). Bus: Buses link Athens and all main towns in Attica, northern Greece and the Peloponnese. Service on the islands depends on demand, and timetables should be checked carefully. Some islands do not allow any kind of motorised transport, in which case islanders use boats, or donkeys and carts to travel around. Fares are low. The Greek/Hellenic Railways Organisation Ltd (OSE) runs bus services to northern Greece from the Karolou Street terminus and to the Peloponnese from the Sina Street station. Bus information: There are two long-distance bus terminals in Athens: Terminal A and Terminal B. For information on long-distance buses, run by KTEL, from Athens to the provinces, enquire at Terminal A, 100 Kifissou Street, Athens (tel: (10) 512 4910) or Terminal B, 260 Liossion Street, Athens. Further information can be obtained from KTEL offices (website: www.ktel.org). Taxi: Rates are per km and are very reasonable, with extra charge for fares to/from stations, ports and airports. Taxis run on a share basis, so do not be surprised if the taxi picks up other passengers for the journey. There is an additional charge from 0100-0600, with double fare from 0200-0400. Car hire: Most car hire firms operate throughout Greece. For details, contact the Greek/Hellenic National Tourism Organisation (see Contact Addresses section). Reservations can be made by writing or telephoning the car hire agency direct. Regulations: The minimum age for driving is l8. Children under ten must sit in the back seat. Seat belts must be worn. There are fines for breaking traffic regulations. The maximum speed limit is 120kph (70mph) on motorways, 110kph (60mph) outside built-up areas and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. There are slightly different speed limits for motorbikes. It is illegal to carry spare petrol in the vehicle. EU nationals may import a foreign-registered car, caravan, motorcycle, boat or trailer for a maximum of six months. This period may be extended to 15 months for a fee and further paperwork. Documentation: A national driving licence is acceptable for EU nationals. EU nationals taking their own cars to Greece must obtain a Green Card, to top up the insurance cover to that provided by the car owner’s domestic policy. It is no longer a legal requirement for visits of less than three months, but without it insurance cover is limited to the minimum legal cover in Greece. The car registration documents have to be carried at all times. Nationals of non-EU countries may need an International Driving Permit and should contact ELPA (Automobile and Touring Club of Greece). Road assistance: A breakdown service is available on main roads, conditions of which have vastly improved. For details, contact ELPA, 395 Messogion Street, 153 43 Athens (tel: (10) 606 8800; fax: (10) 606 8981; e-mail: elpa@techlink.gr). Emergency breakdown services can be contacted toll free by dialing 104. There are good repair shops in big towns and petrol is easily obtainable.
URBAN: Buses: There are several services around Athens and Attica. The terminal at Mauromateon Street, Areos Park, Athens has regular services to Amfiaraio, Marathonas, Nea Makri, Porto Rafti, Ramnous and Sounio. Trolley buses (ILPAP) and regular buses (ETHEL) have frequent links to tourist attractions and places of interest. Tickets for buses and trolley buses can be purchased from the Athens Urban Transport Organisation (OASA) at various booths and kiosks situated around the city. For further information contact OASA at 15 Metsovou Street, 10682 Athens (tel: (10) 883 6076; fax: (10) 821 2219; e-mail: oasa@oatenet.gr; website: www.oasa.gr).
Metro: Athens has a reliable underground system (ISAP) that consists of three major lines. The old line runs north–south between Athens (suburb of Kifissia) and Piraeus daily 0500-0015. Since 2000, the long-awaited projects for a further two lines have been completed. Line 2 runs between Sepolia and Dafnia and line 3 runs between Ethiniki Amyna and Syntagma. Tickets can be purchased at every Metro and ISAP station. Information on timetables and schedules can be found from Athens Metro (website: www.ametro.gr) or OASA (see address details above).
TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times (in hours and minutes) from Athens to other major cities/islands in Greece.
| Air | Road | Sea | | Corfu | 0.50* | 11.00 | - | | Crete | 0.50 | - | 12.00 | | Mykonos | 0.45 | - | 5.50 | | Rhodes | 0.55 | - | 14.00 | | Thessaloniki | 0.50 | 8.00 | 14.00 | | Thira | 0.40 | - | 12.00 |
Note: *The travel time by road to Corfu includes a sea crossing from Patras.
Accommodation
HOTELS: The range of hotels can vary greatly both among the islands and on the mainland, from high class on larger islands and the mainland to small seasonal chalets. Booking for the high season is essential. Xenia hotels are owned and often run by the Greek/Hellenic National Tourism Organisation. Small family hotels are a friendly alternative to the hotel chains.
Hotel reservations can be made by writing directly to the hotels, through a travel agent, or through writing, faxing or phoning the Hellenic Chamber of Hotels, 24 Stadiou Street, 105 64 Athens (tel: (1) 331 0022; fax: (1) 322 5449; e-mail: grhotels@otenet.gr). Grading: Hotels are all officially classified as Luxury or rated on a scale from A to E. The category denotes what facilities must be offered and the price range that the hotelier is allowed to charge.
SELF-CATERING: Furnished rooms in private houses, service flats, apartments and villas are available. On most of the Greek islands, rooms in private homes are an extremely popular form of accommodation and can usually be arranged on the spot. All types of accommodation can be arranged through tour operators in this country. The Greek/Hellenic National Tourism Organisation can provide further information on request.
TRADITIONAL SETTLEMENTS: Known also as paradosiakoi oikismoi in Greek, these traditional hostels can be found throughout the country, notably on Makrinitsa (Pilion), Vizitsa (Pilion), Milies (Pilion), Ia (Santorini), Mesta (Chios), Psara Island, Areopolis (Mani), Vathia (Mani), Papingo (Epirus), Koriskades (Central Greece), Monemvasia (Peloponnese) and Gythion (Peloponnese). This type of accommodation normally offers single, double or triple bedrooms with shower, or a four-bed house.
CAMPING/CARAVANNING: There is a wide network of official campsites. For details contact the Greek/Hellenic National Tourism Organisation (see Contact Addresses section). Note: It is not permitted to camp anywhere except registered sites.
YOUTH HOSTELS: Greece has only one youth hostel recognised by the International Youth Hostel Federation, which is located in Athens, 16 Victor Hugo Street (tel: (10) 523 4170; fax: (10) 523 4015; e-mail: info@athenshostel.com; website: www.interland.gr/athenshostel). A number of youth hostels belong to the Greek Youth Hostels Association, whose main office is in 75 Damareos Street, Athens (tel (10) 751 9530; fax: (10) 751 0616; e-mail: y-hostels@otenet.gr). Other youth hostels exist in the Peloponnese, Crete, and the Cyclades. For further details contact the Greek Youth Hostel Association.
Introduction
For the purposes of clarity, information on Resorts & Excursions within Greece has been divided into mainland Greece, in the first part of the section (with five regional sections plus Athens), and the Greek islands, in the latter part of the section (with six island groups plus Crete). These do not necessarily reflect administrative boundaries.
Note: (a) Following an initiative by the Greek government, opening hours and fees for major museums and archaeological sites are now uniform throughout the country. Archaeological sites with adjoining museums charge a single admission fee, allowing entry to both at no extra cost. Visitors have access to these attractions Tues-Sun 0830-1500. (b) Tourist police in the main tourist destinations are trained to assist visitors with accommodation, maps, timetables, details of places to visit and special events. All wear flag badges denoting which language(s) they speak. English and German are fairly common. Do not hesitate to ask them for help.
Athens
Capital of Greece and the country’s largest city, Athens is dominated by the flat-topped hill of the Acropolis, site of the 2400-year-old Parthenon, one of the most famous classical monuments in the world. Close by lie the Theatre of Dionysus and the restored Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a superb theatre in which open-air performances of the International Athens Festival are held from June to September. The ruins of the civic, political and commercial centre of the Ancient Agora can be visited, as can the reconstructed Hellenistic Stoa of Attalos, which houses the Agora Museum. Most artefacts are displayed in the National Archaeological Museum on Patission Street. The old quarter of the town, Plaka, which spreads around the Acropolis, is picturesque with its famed flea market, small tavernas, craft shops and narrow winding alleys. The excavations of the Library of Hadrian can be observed from Pandrossou Street. The centre of modern Athens, most notably the chic area of Kolonaki, has many designer boutiques, smart restaurants and international-class hotels. The city has a thriving nightlife, with most bars and clubs staying open until at least 0300.
PIRAEUS: Lying at the innermost point of the Saronic Gulf just outside Athens, and connected to the centre by metro, Piraeus is the city’s main port. From here ferries leave regularly for the Islands (see the information on the Greek Islands).
Central Greece with Euboea
The area surrounding Athens, known as Attica, is characterised by calm beaches, and the pinewoods and thyme-covered slopes of Mount Parnes, Hymettus and Pentelico. As one travels northwest, towards the interior, the landscape combines fertile plains planted with tobacco and cotton, and rugged mountains with unspoilt villages and winter ski resorts.
CAPE SOUNIO: Sixty-nine kilometres (43 miles) east of Athens, crowning Cape Sounio is a towering promontory which dominates the landscape for miles around. Here stand the superb ruins of the Temple of Poseidon, built in the fourth century BC, commanding spectacular views over the sea and islands. The Apollo Coast, a highly developed tourist area stretching from Piraeus to Cape Sounio, is dotted with exclusive resorts such as Glifada (17km/11 miles from Athens) and Vouliagmeni (24km/15 miles from Athens), offering marinas, well-kept beaches, modern hotel complexes, seafood tavernas and luxury-class restaurants and nightclubs. North of Cape Sounio lies Rafina, Athens’ second port, with ferry connections to Euboea and some of the Greek Islands.
OSSIOS LOUKAS: Northwest of Athens, close to the town of Livadia, stands the magnificent monastery of Ossios Loukas. Within the monastery complex one can visit the eleventh-century Church of St Luke, noted for its marvellous Byzantine mosaics, and the thirteenth-century Church of the Virgin, built by Cistercian monks who occupied the monastery during the Middle Ages. Livadia, built into the foothills of Mount Helikon, was famous in ancient times for the Oracle of Trophonios Zeus and the Springs of Forgetfulness (Lethe) and Memory (Mnemosyne) to the north of the town.
DELPHI: Lying 176km (109 miles) northwest of Athens, Delphi can be reached by road via Livadia and Arahova. This is the site of the famous Oracle, where rulers of ancient Greece came for many centuries for political and moral guidance. The complex of treasury buildings, plinths and the foundations for the fourth-century BC Temple of Apollo are set on the steep rocky hillside, overlooking olive groves and the Sanctuary of Athena, known as the Marmaria (marbles). A steep uphill climb from the Temple brings one to the theatre, offering stunning views over the entire site, and further uphill still lies the ancient stadium. The Delphi Museum contains a superb collection of finds from the site.
Many visitors to Delphi stay overnight in nearby Arahova, a pretty hillside town renowned for its cheese, formaela. Alternatively, a short distance southwest of Delfi, on the northern coast of the Gulf of Corinthia, lie the seaside towns of Itea and Galaxidi, offering hotels, restaurants and beaches. A regular bus connects Athens and Itea, passing through Arahova and Delphi en-route.
MOUNT PARNASSUS: Close to Arahova, on the main road from Athens to Delphi, lie the southern slopes of Mount Parnassus, which towers 2457m (8061ft) over the Gulf of Corinth. Through winter (December to April) the mountain hosts a number of well-equipped ski resorts, and the area is popular with hikers during spring and autumn.
EUBOEA: The island of Euboea is the second largest in Greece after Crete. A major bridge (road and rail) spans the narrow Evripos Strait that separates the island from the mainland, to arrive in the main town, Halkida, a well-developed tourist resort. Euboea is an island of great natural beauty and scenic variety, with sandy beaches and secluded coves, wooded mountainsides ideal for climbing, and many peaceful and unspoilt villages. Regular train and bus services run between Halkida and Athens, and there is a ferry from Rafina.
The Peloponnese
Lying to the south of the country, the Peloponnese, rich in history and diverse landscapes, is joined to Central Greece by a massive road and rail bridge spanning the Canal of Corinth.
NAFPLIO: An ideal base for exploring the ancient sites of the northeast Peloponnese, from 1824 to 1834 Nafplio was the capital of the newly formed state of Greece, before this role was passed to Athens. Considered by many as one of the country’s loveliest towns, the historic centre is made up of narrow winding streets with Neo-classical and Ottoman-style buildings. Seafood restaurants line the seafront, looking out to the tiny fortified island of Bourdzi. High above the town stands Palamidi, a Venetian fortress. Close by lies the beautiful Karathona Bay, with a wide sand beach, backed by eucalyptus trees. Just north of Nafplio stands Tiryns (Tirintha), the ruins of an ancient fortress made up of massive limestone blocks, dating back to the 13th-century BC.
MYCENAE: North of Nafplio lies the ancient fortified city of Mycenae. The fortress is entered through the Lion Gate, named after the two magnificent lions (now unfortunately headless) carved into the rock above the doorway. Within the walls, excavations have uncovered the palace complex, while close by on the hill of Panagitsa, the Treasury of Atreus (an underground tomb 36m (118ft) long and 6m (20ft) wide) is considered the most impressive example of Mycenaean architecture.
CORINTH: North of Mycenae lies Corinth. The modern city, despite its beautiful location, is unremarkable, having been destroyed by an earthquake in 1858, rebuilt but destroyed again in 1928. However, 8km (5 miles) away, on the northern slopes of Akrokorinthos Hill, are the ruins of Ancient Corinth (Arhea Korinthos), where the remains of the Temple of Apollo are still to be seen. On the hilltop stands Acrocorinth (Akrokorinthos), with a medieval fortress built upon an ancient site. From the highest point, once the Temple of Afrodite, one can enjoy a magnificent panorama.
EPIDAURUS: East of Nafplio stands the impressive open-air Epidaurus Theatre, dating back to the fourth century BC. The acoustics are perfect, and there is seating for 14,000. From July to August, each weekend, the Epidaurus Festival offers performances of ancient Greek dramas in this magical setting.
East of Epidaurus, jutting out from the Peloponnese peninsula, lies Methana, an important spa town since ancient times, with sulphuric waters and modernised hydrotherapy installations.
PATRAS: Patras is a thriving commercial and industrial port, and the third most important town in Greece. From here, daily ferry services connect the country to Italy and the Ionian islands. Southwest of Patras, at Kyllini there are mineral springs, hydropathic installations, new hotels and a public beach. The stretch of coast south of Kyllini as far as Kiparissia offers plenty of good beaches and seaside resorts. East of Patras, one can travel through the deep Vouraikos Gorge, taking a spectacular train journey from Diakofto to Kalavrita.
OLYMPIA: Olympia, the original site of the Olympic Games, which begun in 776 BC, and the site where the Olympic Flame is still lit today, can be reached by train or by the mountain road from Kalavrita, or along the coast, via Patras and Pyrgos. The site is a mass of marble inscriptions, restored temples and civic buildings, including the Temple of Zeus, which once housed the colossal gold and ivory statue of Zeus, one of the ‘Seven Wonders of the Ancient World’ (later taken to Constantinople and destroyed in a fire). There is also a good Archaeological Museum on the site, and a Museum of the Olympic Games located in the modern town of Olympia. Southeast of Olympia at Bassae (Vasses) is the well-preserved monumental Temple of Apollo Epicurius, dating back to the fourth century BC.
PILOS: Northeast of Pilos, at Mystra lie the ruins of a fortified Byzantine city, once inhabited by 42,000 citizens but now home to just a small number of nuns. In the lower town, which was the religious centre, stand the 13th-century frescoed Cathedral and several interesting churches and monasteries. In the Upper Town, where the aristocrats lived, stand numerous palazzi (palaces), notably the Palace of the Despots, built between the 13th and 15th centuries. The site is crowned by the ruins of a hilltop Kastro (Castle). East of Mytras lies Sparta. Now a provincial town with parks, broad avenues and a pleasant atmosphere, it was once a powerful city-state, notorious in ancient history for the austerity of its regime.
MYSTRAS: Lefkas, joined by a narrow strip of land to the Greek mainland, is a green and fertile island which is surrounded by many islets. Excursions, involving some mountain climbing, can be made in the centre of Levkas, near the Stavrota Mountain. There is good swimming and fishing in the villages of Agios Nikitas on the northwestern coast, Ligia on the southeastern coast or Vassiliki (which is also popular with windsurfers) on the southwestern coast.
MANI: Located on the southernmost point of mainland Greece, the Mani peninsular is known for its rocky mountains and barren landscapes, and medieval villages made up of towers and churches. Githio, a peaceful holiday resort with good facilities, makes a good base for exploring the area. Of particular note are the semi-abandoned village of Vathia with its numerous stone towers, and the amazing Caves of Dirou, a vast network with underground channels and vast caverns, which can be visited by boat.
MONEMVASSIA: Built into a rocky promontory overlooking the sea, almost on the southeastern tip of the Peloponnese, stands the spectacular medieval fortified town of Monemvassia. Made up of cobbled alleys and old stone houses, the town is crowned by a hilltop Citadel and the Byzantine church of St Sophia, both of which offer splendid views of the town and gulf below.
Thessaly
The fertile plain of Thessaly in Central Greece is surrounded by high mountains: the Pindus Range to the west, Olimpus (Olimbos) to the north, Ossa, Pelion (Pilio) and Othris to the east, and Trimfrestos to the south. The River Pinios, flowing down from the western slopes of the Pindus, cuts Thessaly in two and passes through the Valley of Tempi to meet the sea.
The region’s capital, Larissa, is an important industrial centre and traffic node (road and rail), but offers little of touristic interest. The main port, Volos, situated on Pagasiticos Bay, is largely modern, due to repeated destruction by earthquakes. However, there is a pleasant seafront with cafes and restaurants, and frequent ferry services for the Sporades (see the information on the Greek islands). Close by, on the slopes of Mount Pelion stand the pretty villages of Makrinitsa and Vizitsa, noted for their traditional architecture, and the winter sports centre of Hania.
Mount Olympus, home of Zeus and the immortal gods and land of the Centaurs, is Greece’s highest mountain, standing 2917m (9570ft). Walking tours depart from the village of Litohoro, where one finds hostels, hotels and tavernas.
To the west, above the Pinios Valley and the town of Kalambaka, just as the Pindus Range begins to form, stand the incredible cliff-top monasteries of the Meteora. Perched upon bizarre vertical rock formations of up to 300m (984ft) high, a total of 24 monasteries, some with beautiful Byzantine frescoes, were founded here during the 15th-century. Several are open to the public (accessed by a series of steep steps carved into the rocks), notably Megalo Meteoro and Varlaam Monastery.
Epirus
Lying between the Ionic Sea and Thessaly, in the northwest corner of the Greek peninsula, Epirus is the most mountainous region in Greece. Due to its isolation, locals here have retained many of their traditions: costumes, dances and handicrafts.
The chief settlement, Ioannina, overlooking Ioannina Lake, reached its peak during the 18th century under the Ottomans when it was an important administrative centre and home to the notorious Ali Pascia, Istanbul’s local representative at that time. The town has conserved a marked eastern atmosphere, thanks to a bazaar and several mosques, notably Aslan Pacha Mosque which now houses the Museum of Popular Art.
North of town lies the spectacular Perama Cave, filled with stalactites, stalagmites and running waters. Further north still one enters the mountainous area of Zagoria, noted for its dense pine forests, wildlife (wolves and bears) and picturesque stone villages. Here, contained within the Vikos-Aoos National Park lies the dramatic Vikos Gorge, a canyon formed by the River Aoos, popular with hikers. South of Ioannina lie the archaeological remains of Dodoni, notably the well-conserved theatre dating back to the third century BC, where open-air performances are held during summer. On the coast, built around a bay, the pretty town of Parga is backed by pine woods, olive groves and orchards. Here one finds a 16th-century Venetian fortress, whitewashed houses, hotels and an excellent sandy beach.
Macedonia
Bordering onto Albania, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (FYROM) and Bulgaria, Macedonia stands slightly apart from the rest of the country; its scenery and climate have more in common with the adjoining Balkans, the mountains being bitterly cold in winter. Though little known by foreign tourists, this is still a particularly beautiful part of Greece, rich in historical monuments and archaeological sites.
The region’s capital, Thessaloniki, is the second-largest city in Greece. A modern industrial port, partly protected by impressive city walls, it is home to the superb Archaeological Museum, housing the ‘Treasures of Ancient Macedonia’. On the seafront, the imposing 16th-century White Tower, built by the Ottomans as part of the city’s defence system, houses an excellent Byzantine Art Collection. Churches of note include the fourth-century Rotonda (also known as St George’s), Agios Dimitrios with its seventh-century mosaics, and the eighth-century Agia Sofia, converted into a mosque during Ottoman rule. The main ancient sites are the Arch of Galerius built in AD 297, and the ruins of the Roman Agora.
Southeast of Thessaloniki are the three mountainous peninsulas of Halkidiki: Kassandra, Sithonia and Agio Oros (Mount Athos). Kassandra and Sithonia shelter Northern Greece’s best beaches and are both popular holiday resorts. However, Mount Athos, with its renowned monasteries, is undoubtedly the region’s highlight. The first religious community, Megistis Lavras, was founded here in AD 963. Between the 13th and 16th centuries, the number of monasteries multiplied, until there were about 30,000 monks living in the area. Today about 1500 monks remain (predominantly Greeks, but also some Russians, Bulgarians and Serbs), housed in 20 monasteries. Women (and female animals) are refused entry, but men can gain a special permit by proving religious or scholarly interests. For further information contact: The Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Directorate of Churches, Zalokosta 2, Athens (tel: (01) 362 6894), or the Ministry of Macedonia and Thrace, Directorate of Political Affairs, Plateia Diikitiriou, Thessaloniki (tel: (031) 270 092).
East along the coast, Kavala is a modern, commercial seaside port with hotels, beaches, museums, restaurants and tavernas. The old town retains many traditional features, notably the aqueduct and Byzantine fortress. There are some good sand beaches, and facilities for fishing, water-skiing and sailing. From here one can reach the island of Thassos, another popular summer retreat with fine beaches, hotels, and some interesting ancient ruins.
North of Kavala, Filippoi is one of Macedonia’s most extensive archaeological sites. Named after the father of Alexander the Great, it is where Caesar’s murderers, Brutus and Cassius, were defeated by Octavius in 42 BC, and is believed to be the site of St Paul’s first recorded preaching in Greece.
West of Thessaloniki, at Vergina (Aigai), findings from the monumental fourth-century BC ‘royal tombs’ are displayed in an excellent museum, housed underground, within one of the former burial mounds.
Further west still, overlooking Kastoria Lake, lies the beautiful town of Kastoria, home to some exquisite frescoed Byzantine churches and an important fur coat industry. From Kastoria, driving north to the border with Albania and FYROM, one finds the Prespa Lakes (Limnes Prespes) contained within the Prespa Lakes National Park.
THRACE: Going east from Macedonia, the towns and villages become more oriental in style. Xanthi is an attractive small town clinging to the hilly sides of the Remma Valley. Southwest of Xanthi is Avdira. Nearby Lagos, built on the narrow strip of land in the lagoon, is rich in wildfowl. One of the best northern beaches is 8km (5 miles) east of Fanari. The main road dips down to the coast before going inland again to Komotini, further east, then follows the coast via Nea Hili to Alexandroupolis, which has an archaeological museum of local finds. North from here is Soufli, famous for its silks. East from here lies the River Evros, marking the natural boundary with Turkey.
Saronic Islands
Lying south of Athens and to the east of the Peloponnese, these islands are within easy reach of the capital, with regular ferry and hydrofoil services running from the port of Piraeus. Salamis, Aegina, Poros, Hydra and Spetses are the most popular islands, with Hydra as the indisputable highlight.
SALAMIS: (Perama 1 nautical mile). Closest to the mainland, Salamis (Salamina) can be reached from both Piraeus and Perama. There are reasonable sandy beaches at Iliakti, Moulki, Kanakia and Peristeria, though the island’s natural beauty is somewhat spoilt by the proximity of heavy industry. The island has good roads and a network of bus and taxi services.
AEGINA: (Piraeus 17.5 nautical miles). Famed for pistachios and ceramics, Aegina (Egina) makes a perfect daytrip from Athens, thanks to its excellent beaches, clear seas and proximity to Piraeus. Boats arrive at the main port, Aegina Town. East from here, on top of a wooded hill offering panoramic views, stands the Temple of Aphaia made up of 22 Doric columns erected in the fifth century BC. On the coast, below the temple, Agia Marina is the island’s most popular resort, thanks to its long sandy beach. South of Aegina Town lies Perdika, a pretty fishing village with a good sandy beach and boat trips running to the small wooded islands of Angistri and Moni. Aegina is relatively flat. Bicycles are available for hire, and it is possible to take a ride in a horsedrawn carriage. The island is also served by buses and taxis.
POROS: (Piraeus 35 nautical miles). Poros is a thickly wooded island separated from the Peloponnese by a very narrow channel. Regular boats cross the channel from Galatas, on the Peloponnese mainland. There is also a service from Piraeus. The island was formed through the union of two smaller islands, Kalavria and Sphaeria. The chief settlement, Poros Town, is known for its white buildings with blue woodwork, typical of Greek island architecture. Close by lie the remains of the Sanctuary of Poseidon, built in the sixth century BC. The best sand beaches lie at Askeli and Neorio.
HYDRA: (Piraeus 42 nautical miles). A barren, rocky, car-free island, Hydra (Idra) is popular with artists and jet-setters, primarily for the beauty of its chief settlement and port, Hydra Town. Built into the hill overlooking the harbour, Hydra Town is a labyrinth of steep cobbled streets, filled with chic bars, restaurants and art galleries. 500m (1640ft) above town stands a monastery, offering fantastic views out over the sea. There are a number of small hotels and private rooms to rent, though visitors should make reservations well in advance as Hydra is extremely busy through high season. Being so rocky, there are few good beaches, but it is possible to swim south of town at Kaminia, Molos and Vlichos, and north of town at Mandraki.
SPETSES: (Piraeus 35 nautical miles). Located at the southern extremity of the Saronic Gulf, Spetses has long been a popular holiday retreat for wealthy Athenians, who are attracted here by good beaches, beautiful pine woods and fresh air. Cars are forbidden, except to residents. Bicycles are available for rent, and the island is served by buses and taxis. There are plenty of good hotels and entertainment facilities in the chief settlement, Spetses Town. The best beaches lie at Agia Anangiri and Agia Pasaskevi.
Ionian Islands
Located off the west coast of mainland Greece, the seven Ionian Islands (Corfu, Paxi, Lefkada, Ithaki, Cephalonia, Zakinthos and Kythira) are comparatively isolated from one another. Consequently, through the centuries each one has developed its own identity. The most popular islands are Corfu, Cephalonia and Kythira. Ferry connections to each destination are given within their relative section.
CORFU: (Igoumenitsa 18 nautical miles). The northernmost island of western Greece, Corfu is the best-known, busiest and most cosmopolitan of the Ionian islands. Although its natural beauty has led to rampant commercialisation along parts of the coast, visitors who arrive during spring or autumn will still find idyllic beaches, romantic landscapes studded with cypresses and olive groves, and unspoilt inland villages.
The capital, Corfu Town, is presided over by two imposing Venetian fortresses and gives onto a series of pretty harbours and bays. With Italian, French and English influences evident in its architecture, it is made up of wide avenues and large squares, among them the graceful Spianada or esplanade, cobbled alleyways, arches and colonnades. Worth visiting are the Archaeological Museum, which houses finds from local excavations; the Byzantine Museum, with a fine collection of icons; and the Museum of Asiatic Art. The Town Hall, a splendid example of 17th-century Venetian architecture, and the 12th-century Byzantine Church of St Jason and Sosipater and the Church of St Spyridon are also of interest. At Kanoni, on the tip of a small peninsular south of the town centre, a narrow causeway leads to the much photographed Monastery of Vlacherna. From here it is possible to take a boat to the tiny island of Pondikonissi, crowned by a 13th-century church.
South of Corfu Town, at Gastouri, stands the 19th-century Achillion, the summer palace of Empress Elizabeth of Austria, surrounded by beautiful Italian-style gardens. West of town, built into a rocky hill, lies the village of Pelekas, reputedly the best place to watch the sunset. Close by, the Ropa Valley (Livaditou Ropa) is home to the excellent Corfu Golf Club. North of town lie the popular seaside resorts of Ipsos, Kassiopi and Sidari, the latter known for its unique rock formations and beaches, which have unfortunately been somewhat spoilt by commercial development. Northwest of Corfu Town, the fortunately unspoilt resort of Paleokastritsa offers crystal clear seawater and two delightful sandy coves for bathing. Close by stands Angelokastro, a 13th-century Byzantine fortress.
Corfu can be reached by ferry from either Patras (see Peloponnese section) or Igoumenitsa (on the northwest coast of mainland Greece, just south of Albania), and in summer there are direct ferries from Italy. The island’s airport offers direct flights to Athens and several other European cities.
CEPHALONIA: (Patras 53 nautical miles). Best known as the setting of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, Cephalonia is the biggest Ionian island. The mountainous scenery, culminating with the 1600m (5250ft) Mount Enos, is dramatic and the island has a good network of roads.
The chief settlement, Argostoli, was largely destroyed in the disastrous 1953 earthquake. However, the Archaeological Museum and Folk Art Museum are both worth visiting, and the nearby beaches of Makris and Platis Gialos are perfect for bathing. Inland, close to Perata, stands the 16th-century St George’s Castle (Agios Georgios), built by the Venetians. Cephalonia’s second town, Lixouri, is peaceful and old-fashioned, and a little south from here lie some of the island’s best beaches. On the northwest coast, the village of Assos is known for its picturesque castle. Fiskardo, the northernmost harbour, is unspoilt and has some good beaches. On the east coast, the Cave of Melissani, noted for its extraordinary colours caused by the reflection of the sun’s rays through the sea, can be visited by boat.
Cephalonia can be reached by ferry from Patras. The island’s airport offers direct flights to Athens.
KYTHERA: (Piraeus 28 nautical miles). Lying at the southeastern tip of the Peloponnese, Kythera is the southernmost Ionian island. Much loved by artists such as Watteau, it was often portrayed as a ‘Garden of Paradise’ and has some beautiful sand beaches.
The capital, Kythera Town, is a neat settlement overlooking the sea, close to the main port of Kapsali. The second port, Agia Pelagia, is the main tourist centre.
At Milopotamos stand the ruins of a Byzantine town and the Cave of St Sophia, formerly used as a chapel and adorned with frescoes, stalagmites and stalactites.
Kythera can be reached by ferry from Piraeus and Monemvassia. During summer there are also direct flights from Athens.
The Cyclades
Lying east of the Peloponnese and southeast of the coast of Attica in the Aegean, a total of 30 islands make up the Cyclades, the best-known being Mykonos and Santorini. Other popular islands are Andros, Tinos, Delos, Paros and Naxos, while the small islands of the eastern Cyclades are less visited and offer only basic amenities. All can be reached by ferry from Piraeus, and several have small airports with daily fights to Athens through summer.
ANDROS: (Piraeus 89 nautical miles). Most northerly of the Cyclades, Andros is a green mountainous island planted with olive groves, vineyards and pine trees. Its capital, Andros Town, is made up of typical white cottages, plus a number of neo-classical-style town houses and the remains of a 13th-century Venetian castle. Worth visiting are the Archaeological Museum, displaying a rich collection of finds from the excavations on the island; the Museum of Modern Art, staging exhibitions of contemporary Greek artists; and the Maritime Museum.
There are many fine beaches, the largest being at Batsi, which also has several small hotels. Other places of interest are Paleopolis, the island’s ancient port, much of which now lies below the sea, though some ruins can still be seen; Panachrantou Monastery at Falika; and the Byzantine Church of Taxiarchon in Messaria. Apikia is known for its mineral springs. The principal port is Gavrio, west of Andros Town.
TINOS: (Piraeus 86 nautical miles). The island’s largest settlement, Tinos Town, is best known as a pilgrimage site. Each year on 25 March and 15 August, thousands of believers gather here to pay their respect to an icon of Our Lady (said to perform miracles) kept in the Church of the Annunciate Virgin (Evangelistria). The town’s second attraction is the Archaeological Museum, exhibiting finds from the ancient Temple of Poseidon. Remains of the temple itself can be seen at Kionia, north east of town, where there is also a good beach. Buses connect Tinos Town to the island’s numerous villages, the most interesting being Pirgos, noted for its sculpture school and marble workshops, plus another pleasant beach.
MYKONOS: (Piraeus 95 nautical miles). The most visited and most expensive of all the Greek islands, Mykonos is known for its lively nightlife and some of Greece’s best discotheques. It is now especially popular among the international gay community. Mykonos Town (also known as Hora) comprises a modern harbour, whitewashed houses and churches, shops selling local arts and crafts, small tavernas and cafes, and is backed by a hill with five thatched windmills. The Paraportiani Church, a complex of four chapels, is considered to be an architectural masterpiece. The Archaeological Museum exhibits finds excavated from the necropolis on the nearby islet of Rhenia. There is also a Folklore Museum. Interesting excursions can be made to the monasteries of Agios Panteleimon, close to Mykonos Town, and the Tourliani Monastery, close to the old fishing village of Ano Mera. Beaches range from cosmopolitan to secluded, the most popular being Agios Stefanos and Platis Gialos. On the south side of the island lie several unspoilt nudist beaches, the best known being Paradise and Super Paradise, which can be reached by boat from Plati Gialos. It is also possible to visit the uninhabited island of Delos (see Delos section), by boat, from Mykonos Town.
Through summer, there are daily flights from Mykonos to Athens.
DELOS: (Mykonos 6 nautical miles). The religious and political centre of the Aegean in ancient times, the tiny island of Delos is said to have been the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. Today uninhabited, it is possible to visit this superb archaeological site, arriving by boat from Mykonos. Star attractions include the Avenue of the Lions, featuring five crouching stone lions, guardians of the Sacred Lake, and the Sanctuary of Apollo, made up of three temples. The Archaeological Museum exhibits archaic, Classical, Hellenistic and Roman sculptures, including the Archaic Sphinx of the Naxians and Acroteria (Victories) from the Temple of the Athenians, found in excavations on the site.
PAROS: (Piraeus 95 nautical miles). The island’s hinterland has undulating hills that contain the famous Parian marble. It is becoming an increasingly popular tourist destination, thanks to its sand beaches, unspoilt fishing villages, reasonably priced hotels and lively nightlife. Parikia, the island’s picturesque capital and main port, is built on the site of the ancient city. There is a ruined Venetian castle and close to the port stands the impressive sixth-century Byzantine church of Ekatondapiliani (Church of a Hundred Doors). A number of good beaches lie near Naousia, the island’s second port, notably Kolimbithres, where the rugged coast forms inlets with golden sands. Of the island’s monasteries, Zoodohos Pigi Longovarda and Christou Tou Dassous are the most significant.
Antiparos is separated from Paros by a narrow channel. The main attraction on this small island is its famous cave with stalactites. There are also several hotels and a number of good sand beaches.
Through summer, there are daily flights from Paros to Athens.
NAXOS: (Piraeus 103 nautical miles). The largest and most fertile island in the Cyclades islands, Naxos lies almost in the centre of the Aegean. The capital and main port, Naxos Town (also known as Hora) is crowned by the ruins of a Venetian castle. A little way out of town, the Pirgos Bellonia (Bellonian Tower) was built under Venetian rule (note the Lion of St Mark emblem) as a refuge from pirates. The island is particularly noted for its numerous sand beaches, and just south of Naxos Town lie the bathing areas of Agios Georgios, Agios Prokopios and Agia Anna. The island’s second town and port, Apolonas, also has an excellent beach. The inland village of Halki has a medieval fortress and several Byzantine churches.
Through summer, there are daily flights from Naxos to Athens.
SANTORINI: (Piraeus 127 nautical miles). Considered by many as the most dramatically beautiful of all the Greek islands, Santorini (also known as Thira) was formed by the eruption of a now dormant volcano around 1600 BC. Arrival by ferry brings one to the west side of the island, with the whitewashed cliff top villages of Fira (the capital) and Ia (the Aegean’s most photographed town) overlooking the circular caldera (a huge depression created by a volcanic explosion). A steep winding path leads up from the harbour of Skala to Fira, where one finds many excellent hotels, chic restaurants and bars, and a vibrant nightlife. The Archaeology Museum, displaying finds from the excavations at Akrotiri, is worth a visit. From Fira, a mountain path leads along the cliff edge to Ia, noted for its beautiful white buildings with blue domes. On the east side of the island, lie the archaeological remains of Ancient Thira, a Dorian city dating back to the ninth century BC. Akrotiri is also of great interest for the relics of the Minoan civilisation which were buried under lava following the eruption of 1600 BC: about 40 buildings have been uncovered to date. The 18th-century Monastery of Profitas Ilias on the island’s summit and the swimming beaches of Perissa and Kamari are other attractions.
Through summer, there are daily flights from Santorini to Athens.
KEA: (Piraeus 42 nautical miles). Kea is dotted with small cultivated valleys, sandy beaches, fruit orchards, clusters of whitewashed houses, several windmills and a large number of churches. A short distance inland from the port of Korissia lies the chief settlement Hora (also known as Kea Town). The Convent of Panagia Kastriani, overlooking Otzia Bay, is worth visiting. At Koundouro and Pisses there are good swimming beaches.
KITHNOS: (Piraeus 54 nautical miles). A small island, the harsh landscape of Kithnos is softened by vineyards and fig trees. Most hotels are found in the small port towns of Loutra (noted for its warm medical springs) and Merihas.
The main town, Hora (also known as Messaria) is built into a barren hillside. White Cycladic cottages, churches with frescoes and icons and the islanders’ hospitality combine to make Kithnos increasingly popular with visitors in search of beauty and quiet.
SERIFOS: (Piraeus 70 nautical miles) Ships calling at the island anchor at Livadi which is surrounded by gardens and orchards. From here the road climbs up to Hora (the chief settlement) where narrow paved alleys are lined by typical Cycladic houses and churches. Higher still stands the old Venetian fortress. Attractive beaches are to be found at Mega Livadi and Koutalas.
SIROS: (Piraeus 80 nautical miles). Siros lies at the heart of the Cycladic complex. Its capital and main port, Ermoupolis, has many notable neo-classical buildings, such as the Town Hall and the Apollo Municipal Theatre (which is a miniature copy of La Scala in Milan), plus spacious public squares and impressive churches. Upper Siros retains a strong medieval flavour with city walls, narrow cobbled streets and arcades.
SIFNOS: (Piraeus 78 nautical miles). Sifnos is the most popular of the western Cyclades. An attractive drive inland from the port of Kamares leads to the main settlement, Apollonia, made up of distinctive Cycladic houses, a number of notable churches, and the Museum of Folklore. Other places to see are the atmospheric medieval town of Kastro, and the village of Artemonas, built on gently undulating hills surrounded by picturesque windmills. There are good beaches at Faros and Vathy.
MILOS: (Piraeus 82 nautical miles) This beautiful island has been inseparably associated with Venus since a statue of the goddess of love, which is now in the Louvre in Paris, was found here during the 19th century. A copy of the statue can be seen in the Archaeological Museum in the chief settlement, Plaka. Also of interest in Plaka are the remains of a hilltop Frankish castle and the 13th-century Byzantine Church of Thalassitras. Close to Plaka, at Tripiti, there are extensive early-Christian catacombs. The best beaches and accommodation are found at Apollonia and Adamas (the island’s port), and a number of sea caves, notably Sikia (also known as the Blue Cave) and Kleftiko, can be visited by boat.
IOS: (Piraeus 114 nautical miles) The chief settlement of this extremely popular island, Hora (also known as Ios Town), stands above the small harbour of Ormos and the attractive swimming beaches of Yalos and Milopotas. Hora boasts whitewashed cottages, a number of interesting churches and the ruins of a 15th-century hilltop fortress. Each year, thanks to a steady influx of visitors, numerous summer discotheques open up in Hora.
Northeast Aegean Islands
The four most popular islands of this group are Chios, Samos, Lesbos and Lemnos, all of which lie fairly far apart in the waters of the northeast Aegean, close to Turkey. It is possible to reach each of these islands by ferry from Piraeus.
CHIOS: (Piraeus 153 nautical miles). Lying just 8km from Turkey, this surprisingly unexploited island offers excellent beaches, unspoilt medieval towns and stunning landscapes. The north side of the island is dominated by Pelinio, a 1297m- (4255ft-) high mountain of volcanic origin. The capital and main port, Chios Town, lies on the eastern shore. Several of the town’s churches, which date back to Byzantine times, were converted into mosques by the Turks, but have since resumed their Christian function. The Byzantine Museum is housed in a former 19th-century mosque. In the hills east of town lies the splendid 12th-century monastery of Nea Moni, one of the country’s finest Byzantine monuments, with a beautiful octagonal church adorned with golden mosaics. The inland villages on the south side of the island have conserved a medieval appearance, the best examples being Pirgi and Mesta. Pirgi is unique in that all the building facades are decorated with grey and white geometric designs, known as xista. The settlement of Mesta is made up of narrow winding streets and traditional cottages, many of which offer tourist accommodation, plus a fine Byzantine church.
There is an airport, providing daily flights to and from Athens.
SAMOS: (Piraeus 174 nautical miles) Separated form Turkey by a narrow strait, Samos is an island of forested hills, olive groves, vineyards and meadows. Samos Town, the island’s capital, is divided into two parts: the new quarter, which developed during the 19th century, and the old quarter, Ano Vathi, on a hill above the port. The Archaeological Museum displays finds from Heraion, an ancient sanctuary located on the southeast coast. Pythagorio, a lively fishing port and tourist resort, was known as Tigani until 1955, when it was renamed in honour of its best known citizen, the philosopher and mathematician, Pythagoras. From Samos Town a good asphalt road runs the length of the northern coast to Potami, passing through the picturesque villages of Kokari, Tsamadou and Avlakia, each of which have good beaches close by, and Karlovassi, renowned for its excellent sweet wine. There is an airport, providing daily flights to and from Athens.
LESBOS: (Piraeus 118 nautical miles). Lesbos, home of the ancient poet Sappho, is the largest island in this group, with vast olive groves, shady pinewoods, good beaches and picturesque monasteries. The capital, Mitilini, is dominated by a 14th-century castle, and has a nearby beach with good facilities. There are more good beaches at Vateron, Petra, Skala Eftalou and Agios Issidoros, and along the Gulf of Kaloni on the south coast of the island. At Loutropoli Thermis there are therapeutic springs which have been known since antiquity. Mithimna, or Molivos, on the north of the island, is popular with artists and has a fine pebble beach.
There is an airport, providing daily flights to and from Athens.
LEMNOS: (Piraeus 188 nautical miles). Lemnos is still relatively unknown to mainstream tourism. Mirina, its capital, is built on the site of an ancient city of the same name and has an Archaeological Museum housing exhibits from around the island. The hilltop castle, extended successively by the Venetians, Genovese and Turks, offers wonderful views. North of town, close to the village of Kaspakas, lies Kaspakas Bay with several excellent sand beaches. Likewise, south of town, close to the village of Plati, lies the Bay of Plati and another large sand beach. To the east of the island, ancient ruins are found at Poliohni and Ifestia.
There is an airport, providing daily flights to and from Athens.
Sporades Islands
East of the Thessaly region on mainland Greece lie the four islands of the Sporades – Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonissos and Skiros. They are becoming very popular and it is advisable to book early, especially in the high season. It is possible to reach these islands by either ferry or hydrofoil from Volos on the mainland, and from Kimi on Euboea. Skiathos and Skiros can also be reached by plane from Athens.
SKIATHOS: (Volos 41 nautical miles). Planted with pine trees and olive groves, Skiathos is a popular tourist destination, thanks to its indented coast with numerous sandy coves. The capital, Skiathos Town, was built in 1830 on two low hills. The seafront is lined with cafes and seafood restaurants, and there is a good marina. Numerous hotels, villas and private rooms provide seasonal accommodation, and the town’s bars and discos ensure a vibrant nightlife through summer. Boat trips take tourists around the island to visit the Blue Cave, the ruins of the medieval walled town of Kastro on the south coast, and the pebble beach of Lalaria. From Skiathos Town, a good road follows the southern coast with its many bays, to arrive at the renowned pine grove beach of Koukounaries.
There is an airport, providing daily flights to and from Athens the year round.
SKOPELOS: (Volos 58 nautical miles). This island has small bays, golden sands and slopes covered with pine forests, olive groves and plum trees (prunes are a local speciality). Less busy than Skiathos, it is known for its traditional architecture and tiny white chapels. The main settlement, Skopelos Town, is made up of narrow cobbled streets, whitewashed houses and the Venetian Kastro (fortress). The island has numerous beaches, both of sand and pebble, and shallow waters safe for children.
There is an airport, providing daily flights to and from Athens during summer.
ALONISSOS: (Volos 62 nautical miles). The most distant and least populated island of the Sporades, the hills of Alonissos are covered with unspoilt woods. There are limited tourist facilities – a number of small hotels and private rooms to let. With only 10km (6 miles) of roads, the best way of getting about is by motorboat, sharing the fare. There are a number of good beaches, but as the coast has been declared a Marine Conservation Park, building development is forbidden.
SKIROS: (Kimi 25 nautical miles; Piraeus 118 nautical miles). The largest of the Sporades, Skiros lies far out from Volos and is most easily accessed from Kimi on Euboea. Tourist facilities are not particularly developed, though there are some beautiful sand beaches, good tavernas serving authentic seafood and local cheeses, and interesting craft shops. The main settlement, Skiros Town (also known as Horio) is made up of whitewashed cottages and narrow winding alleys, crowned by the hilltop Venetian Kastro (fortress). The Folklore Museum gives an excellent presentation of local handicrafts, and includes a reconstruction of a traditional house. Close to town lies the large sand beach of Magazia.
Dodecanese Islands
This cluster of 12 (dodeca) islands lies east of Peloponnese, closer to Turkey than to mainland Greece. All the islands can be reached by ferry from Piraeus, and distances between them are fairly small, so visitors can easily hop from one to another, swapping the relative sophistication of Rhodes and Kos for the calmer and simpler life on Tilos or Astipalaia.
RHODES: (Piraeus 267 nautical miles). One of the most popular and best-developed islands in the Mediterranean, Rhodes offers international-class hotels, varied nightlife and good sports facilities. It has 370km (230 miles) of coastline and a good, well-surfaced road network, with bus services linking most of the towns and villages. Travel agents organise daily sightseeing trips to the archaeological sites and beauty spots.
The capital, Rhodes Town, lies almost at the northern tip of the island. It is made up of two distinct parts – an old town and a new town. The old town, contained within the walls of a medieval fortress, centres of the Avenue of the Knights, lined with magnificent medieval buildings, including the monumental 14th-century Palace of the Grand Masters. The 15th-century Knight’s Hospital now houses the Archaeological Museum. 2km (1.2 miles) west of the town walls lies the Acropolis of Ancient Rhodes. Many impressive ruins can still be seen, including the Temple of Apollo, and a theatre and stadium dating back to the second century BC.
Just out of town lie the main tourist complexes of Faliraki on the east coast, and Ixia and Ialissos (also known as Trianda) on the west coast, all with numerous hotels and good beaches. At Filerimos, 15km (9 miles) from Rhodes Town, lie the ruins of ancient Ialisos, and 25km (16 miles) southwest from here stand the remains of ancient Kameiros. 56km (35 miles) southeast of the capital stands the delightful town of Lindos made up of winding streets and whitewashed buildings, crowned by a 15th-century hilltop fortress standing aside an imposing ancient Acropolis. Rhodes can be reached by ferry from Piraeus. There are regular flights to Athens and several other Greek islands, plus a number of European cities.
KOS: (Piraeus 201 nautical miles). This fertile island boasts sandy beaches (some of black volcanic sand) and ample hotel accommodation. Most places of historical and sightseeing interest lie in or close to the main settlement, Kos Town, and can be visited on foot or bicycle (available for hire). Activity centres on Platia tou Platanou, a piazza named after the Plane Tree of Hippocrates, a massive tree (12m (39ft) in circumference), beneath which the philosopher Hippocrates is said to have taught his students. Close by, the 15th-century Castle of the Knights of St John is accessed across a drawbridge. There are also some interesting ancient Greek and Roman archaeological sites. From Kos Town, a road traverses the length of the island all the way to Kefalos, a town on the southwest coast with an old Fortress and a splendid beach. Also of note is Kardamena, a pretty fishing village and well developed resort with many hotels and beautiful sand beaches.
Kos can be reached by ferry from Piraeus and Rhodes. There are regular flights to Athens and Rhodes.
SIMI: (Piraeus 235 nautical miles). A lovely mountainous island with several good beaches, Simi offers limited hotels and tourist facilities. The chief settlement, Simi Town, is divided between Ano Simi (upper town) and Kato Poli (lower town). The lower town, also known as Yialos, is made up of charming pastel-coloured, neo-Classical mansions built close to the port, while the upper town is capped by the ruins of a castle, built by the Knights of St John. On the southwest coast stands the 18th-century Monastery of St Michel of Panormitis.
Simi can be reached by ferry from both Piraeus and Rhodes.
KARPATHOS: (Piraeus 227 nautical miles). Karpathos, a mountainous island with fertile valleys and several good beaches, lies between Rhodes and Crete. The main settlement and port, Karpathos Town (also known as Pigadia) sits in a bay on the southeast coast. It was built primarily from funds sent home by immigrants to the USA and does not reflect the traditional style found in the older villages, but has good tourist facilities and numerous hotels. From the island’s second port, Diafani, on the northern coast, a road leads to Olimbos, an isolated but well-preserved medieval village where local customs are very much alive. Karpathos can be reached by ferry from both Piraeus and Rhodes. There are regular flights to Athens and Rhodes.
KASSOS: (Piraeus 255 nautical miles). Kassos, the most southern of the Dodecanese lies just three nautical miles from Karpathos. Emborios, the port, and Fri, the principal town, are picturesque settlements, both with good beaches. Selai, a cave to the west of the village of Agia Marina, is filled with impressive stalactites.
Kassos can be reached by ferry from Piraeus.
PATMOS: (Piraeus 140 nautical miles). St John is said to have been exiled to Patmos and was inspired to write his ‘Revelations’ here. During the 11th century, the massive fortified Monastery of St John the Divine was built above the capital, Patmos Town (also known as Hora), to honour the saint. The monastery is worth visiting for its church and chapels, displaying Byzantine icons, and also for the panoramic view it affords out to sea. The island’s main tourist resorts are Skala and Grikos. Skala, made up of whitewashed houses, bars and tavernas, is also the principal port, and lies 2km (1.2 miles) from Hora Town. Grikos is built overlooking Grikos Bay and has a fine beach nearby. Patmos can be reached by ferry from Piraeus.
KALIMNOS: (Piraeus 180 nautical miles). Kalimnos is famous for its sponge fishing – a tradition which is expressed in many folk songs and local dances. Along the northwest coast of the island there are several resorts with lovely beaches, notably Mirties and Massouri. Good hotels can also be found in the chief settlement, Pothia, a cheerful port town with brightly coloured houses, founded in 1850. Close to Pothia lies Therma, a well equipped spa with therapeutic bathing installations and overnight accommodation. The old capital, Horio, stands below the remains of a medieval castle.
Kalimnos can be reached by ferry from Piraeus.
LEROS: (Piraeus 169 nautical miles). Leros is an island of fertile valleys, green hills and unspoilt beaches. The chief settlement Agia Marina, is made up of steep winding alleyways, whitewashed houses, and several neo-Classical buildings, and crowned by a 14th-century Byzantine fortress. Most hotels are found in Laki (one of the Mediterranean’s largest natural harbours) and Alinda, both of which have fine beaches. Leros can be reached by ferry from Piraeus and by plane from Athens.
TILOS: (Piraeus 290 nautical miles). Little known by tourists, Tilos is a hilly island with many isolated and unspoilt beaches. The main settlements are the inland town of Megalo Horio, crowned by a medieval castle, and Livadia, the island’s port. Close to Megalo Horio it is possible to visit the monastery of Agios Antonios.
Tilos can be reached by ferry from Piraeus.
NISSIROS: (Piraeus 200 nautical miles). This small volcanic island lies between Kos and Tilos. The capital and port, Mandraki, is built below a medieval castle. Close by at Loutra lie the renowned hot springs, while in the centre of the island one can visit the vast smouldering crater, formed in 1522 by a massive volcanic explosion.
Nissiros can be reached by ferry from Piraeus, Rhodes and Kos.
HALKI: (Piraeus 302 nautical miles). Halki is a small hilly island, little known by tourists. From the main settlement and port, Nimborio (also known as Halki), Potamo is the only beach accessible on foot, though many other beautiful unspoilt beaches can be reached by boat. The island’s second town and former capital, Horio, was built inland to avoid pirate attacks. Halki can be reached by ferry from Piraeus.
ASTIPALAIA: (Piraeus 165 nautical miles). The westernmost of the Dodecanese, Astipalaia is mountainous but fertile, and little discovered by tourists. The capital, also called Astipalaia, is built on a steep hill and dominated by an austere Venetian castle. The most beautiful part of the island is around Livadia, where there is a fine sandy beach.
Astipalaia can be reached by ferry from Piraeus and by plane from Athens.
Crete
(Piraeus 174 nautical miles). The largest and most southerly Greek island, despite a busy tourist industry concentrated along the north coast, Crete has preserved its unspoilt nature, local traditions and ancient monuments. The Minoan culture, Europe’s first advanced civilisation, developed here between 2800 and 1000 BC. When Constantinople fell to the Ottomans in 1453, many artists took refuge on the island, founding the renowned ‘Cretan School’ of painters.
The capital and main port, Heraklion (Iraklio) offers a variety of cafes, restaurants, nightlife and sightseeing opportunities. The old town lies within the 16th-century Venetian city walls, while the harbour is protected by Koules, an imposing Venetian Fortress. The National Archaeological Museum is one of the country’s top museums, displaying finds from the Minoan era, and the History Museum tells the island’s story from Byzantine times up to the present day. Close to town stand three wonderful Minoan sites – Knossos, Phaestos and Malia. The palace at Knossos, founded in 2000 BC, was a vast city of 50,000 inhabitants, destroyed around 1600 BC by earth movements provoked by the volcanic eruption on Santorini. The highlights here are the frescoed sanctuary and the royal apartments. Another palace, built on an identical plan around a central courtyard, can be seen at Phaestos, though the frescoes here are not so well preserved. The remains of yet a third palace can be seen at Malia.
East of Heraklion, Agios Nikolaos, one of the island’s best-known holiday resorts, overlooks the Gulf of Mirambello and several fine beaches. East from here stands Sitia, another popular resort with bars, restaurants, hotels and a Venetian fortress. West of Heraklion, the well preserved port town of Rethimno is made up of narrow winding alleys conserving a number of 16th-century Venetian stone buildings and 19th-century Turkish houses with traditional wooden balconies. At the western end of the island, Hania has a mixture of modern, neo-classical and Venetian architecture, plus a Naval Museum and good beaches.
South of Hania, the beautiful Samaria Gorge, declared a National Park, is the longest gorge in Europe. Keen hikers will be able to walk the 18km (11.2 miles) length in a day, while the less sporting can join an organised tour, departing from Hania.
The only major resort on the south side of the island is the small port of Matala, offering good sandy beaches and excellent fish restaurants.
Crete can be reached by ferry from Piraeus. There are airports at Iraklio, Sitia and Hania, with regular flights to Athens and several other Greek islands, plus a number of European cities.
Sport & Activities
Watersports: There are excellent facilities along all coastlines of the mainland and particularly in the islands. Most major hotels can help with arrangements. Water-skiing is especially popular and there are over 30 water-ski schools in Greece with restaurants and child-care facilities. Speed boats are also available for hire. Independent scuba diving is strictly forbidden, in order to guard against the pilfering of underwater antiquities. Divers may only venture out under the auspices of a recognised diving school. Snorkelling is permitted, however, and is possible practically anywhere. For further information, contact the Hellenic Federation of Underwater Activities, West Terminal Post Office, Agios Cosmos, 166 04 Hellenikon, Athens (tel: (10) 981 9961; fax: (10) 981 7558).
Fishing: Greek waters offer good fishing, particularly during the summer and autumn. Boats and equipment can be found in most villages.
Mountaineering: This is becoming increasingly popular and there is scope for hill walking and climbing. There are well maintained trails in the most popular areas, supplemented by donkey and goat tracks connecting villages and leading over mountains. The best areas for walking include the Peloponnese, the Pindos Mountains and the south and west of Crete.
Other: Sites of archaeological interest abound, and the visitor can often come across ancient ruins and traces of lost civilisations. It is often advisable to use a guide when visiting the more remote regions. There are over 7000 karstic cave formations in the country, the majority in Crete. Further information on these caves is available from the Hellenic Speleological Society, 32 Sina Street, 106 72 Athens (tel: (10) 361 7824; fax: (10) 364 3476). There are some horseriding clubs in Greece (in Attica, Thessaloniki, Corfu and Crete).
Social Profile
Food & Drink: Restaurant and taverna food tends to be very simple, rarely involving sauces but with full use of local olive oil and charcoal grills. Dishes like dolmades (stuffed vine leaves), moussaka (aubergine casserole with minced lamb, cinnamon, red wine and olive oil), kebabs and avgolemono (chicken broth with rice, eggs, salt and lemon juice) can be found everywhere. Taramosalata (a dip made from fish roe, bread, onion, olive oil and lemon juice) and a variety of seafood dishes, especially squid (kalamari) or octopus, are excellent. Greek menus typically include a selection of meze (appetisers), such as keftedes (hot spicy meatballs) or tzatziki (a dip made from yoghurt, olive oil, garlic, shredded cucumber and dill). Salads are excellent and often made with the local feta cheese, tomato, cucumber and fresh olive oil. Other vegetarian specialities include gigantes (large white beans), kolokithakia (small boiled courgette with oil and lemon). Olives are cheap and plentiful. Deserts, such as baklavas (filo pastry filled with almonds and topped with honey, vanilla and sugar) or loukoumades (honey-drenched pastry puffs) are sweet and filling. All restaurants have a standard menu which includes the availability and price of each dish. A good proportion of the restaurants will serve international dishes. Hours are normally 1200-1500 for lunch and 2000-2400 for dinner. Waiter service is usual.
One of the best-known Greek drinks is retsina wine, made with pine-needle resin. Local spirits include ouzo, an aniseed-based clear spirit to which water is added and very similar to the French pastis. Local brandy is sharp and fiery. Greek coffee is served thick and strong, and sugared according to taste. Greek beer is a light Pilsner type. Opening hours vary according to the region and local laws.
Nightlife: This is centred in main towns and resorts with concerts and discotheques. Athens offers many local tavernas, paticularly in the Plaka area, and ouzeris (typical Greek bars). Regular concerts and evening shows are also held at the the Odeion of Herodes in Attica. Nightclubs featuring Greek bouzouki music are extremely popular. There are some casinos in Greece, such as the Mount Parnes Casino in Athens, the Corfu Casino in Corfu and the Casino at the Grand Hotel Astir in Rhodes.
Shopping: Special purchases include lace, jewellery, metalwork, pottery, garments and knitwear, furs, rugs, leather goods, local wines and spirits. Athens is the centre for luxury goods and local handicrafts. The flea markets in Monastiraki and Plaka, below the Acropolis, are all crowded in high season. Regional specialities include silver from Ioannina, ceramics from Sifnos and Skopelos, embroidery and lace from Skiros, Crete, Rhodes and the Ionian Islands, fur from Kastoria, alabaster from Crete and flokati rugs from the Epirus region. Note: (a) Visitors should be aware that most ‘antiques’ sold to tourists are fake; it is illegal to export any item of real antiquity without a special permit from the Export Department of the Ministry of Culture. (b) Non-EU citizens can get a refund on Greek VAT (four per cent on books and 18 per cent on nearly everything else); the process is fairly complex, but well worth it. Non-EU visitors may buy goods from certain shops bearing the sign ‘Member of the Tax Free Club’ and have the VAT refunded, in cash, at special refund points at the airport. Ask store owners and tourist information offices for details.
Shopping hours: These vary according to the season, location and type of shop, but a rough guide follows: Mon, Wed, and Sat 0800-1430, Tues, Thurs and Fri 0800-1400 and 1730-2030.
Note: Most holiday resort shops stay open late in the evening.
Special Events: For a complete list, contact the Greek/Hellenic National Tourism Organisation (see Contact Addresses section). The following is a selection of the major annual festivals and special events celebrated in Greece.
Jan 2003 Feast of St Basil (the New Year’s Cake is sliced, and the person whose slice contains a coin is said to have good luck for the coming year), throughout Greece. Epiphany (a cross is thrown into rivers, lakes and seas as the blessing of the waters takes place), throughout Greece. The Gynaecocratia (celebrates matriarchy with men and women reversing roles for the day), Komotini, Xanthi, Kilkis and Serres. Mar Carnival (a national celebration marked by pageantry and partying, fancy dress, masked figures, practical jokes and processions of Carnival chariots), throughout the country; Shrove Monday (the first day of Lent is welcomed with picnics in the country, kite flying and other special celebrations reflecting the local traditions of the villages), throughout Greece; Independence Day and Feast of the Annunciation (the anniversary of Greek independence is marked with military parades in cities and larger towns, with Athens having the most spectacular celebrations. Apr Easter (celebrated with feasts of spit-roasted lamb, red-dyed eggs, and folk-dancing), throughout the country, and especially at Metsovo, Tripolis, Trapeza, Patras, and Livadia. May 1 Labour Day and Flower Festival (celebrated by country picnics), throughout the country. May Anastenaria (traditional fire walking ritual), Serres and Thessaloniki. Jun Rally Acropolis (drivers from throughout the world take part in auto race competition), Athens. Jun-Oct Athens Festival (performances of orchestral and chamber music, classical and popular theatre, grand opera and modern/classical ballet take place in the amphitheatre at the foot of the Acropolis), Athens. Jul International Sailing Regatta, Athens. Jul-Aug Wine Festivals, Daphni, Alexandroupolis, Rethymnon, Patras. Aug Hippokrateia (ancient drama performances, musical evenings, a flower show and a re-enactment of the Hippocratic Oath), Kos. Oct 28 Ochi! Day (commemorates Greece’s refusal to allow Mussolini’s troops to enter the country), throughout Greece. Oct International Marathon, (retracing the original marathon route taken by a young warrior in 490 BC to announce the Athenian victory over the invading Persians), Athens; Greek Film Festival (featuring the best of Greek and foreign films), Thessaloniki. Oct-Nov Demetria Festival (performances in music, dance, opera, theatre and art), Thessaloniki. Oct-May Winter Cultural Season (performances of opera, ballet and concerts), Greek National Opera House in Athens. Dec 6 St Nikolas Day (Christmas celebrations in Greece begin on this day, when children make their rounds singing carols, and continue until the end of the year), throughout the country.
Note: Greece is hosting the Olympic Games in the year 2004.
Social Conventions: Visitors to Greece will find the Greeks to be well aware of a strong historical and cultural heritage. Traditions and customs differ throughout Greece, but overall a strong sense of unity prevails. The Greek Orthodox Church has a strong traditional influence on the Greek way of life, especially in more rural areas. The throwing back of the head is a negative gesture. Dress is generally casual. Smoking is prohibited on public transport and in public buildings. Tipping: 12-15 per cent is usual.
Business Profile
Economy: Traditionally agricultural, accession to the EU gave a new impetus to the Greek economy, particularly the industrial sectors of textiles, clothing and shoes, cement, mining and metals, chemicals, steel and processed agricultural products. Nonetheless, 20 per cent of the working population still work the land – a very high proportion by EU standards. Tourism, the most important service industry, has boomed since the 1980s with upwards of ten million tourists now visiting the country annually. Shipping is also an important source of income: Greece has one of the largest merchant fleets in the world. Greek enterprises have consistently encountered difficulty penet | | |