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Greenland
Overview
Country Overview
Greenland is the world’s biggest island. It is a place of wild and rugged scenery and clear, clean air. The surrounding seas are either permanently frozen or chilled by the mainly cold currents. The inland area is covered with ice. In the centre, the ice can be up to 3km (2 miles) thick. The ice-free coastal region covers a total of 341,700 sq km (131,900 sq miles), and is where all of the population is to be found. The arctic night in the winter results in a continuous twilight and, in the far north of the country, complete darkness. The Northern Lights can be seen during the autumn, winter and early spring.
The Disko Bay region and South Greenland are the most visited places and offer the widest selection of tours.
Though it is not a tourist attraction, Nuuk, the capital, has a population of 12,233, overlooked by Sermitsiaq Mountain.
Local specialities include reindeer meat (caribou) and fowl. Shrimps and fish are the most popular local food.
General Information
Area: 2,166,086 sq km (836,330 sq miles).
Population: 56,307 (2001).
Population Density: 0.026 per sq km.
Capital: Nuuk (Godthåb). Population: 14,058 (2000).
GEOGRAPHY: Greenland is the world’s biggest island. The surrounding seas are either permanently frozen or chilled by the mainly cold currents caused by the meeting of the Arctic and the North Atlantic oceans. The inland area is covered with ice, stretching 2500km (1500 miles) north–south and 1000km (600 miles) east–west. In the centre, the ice can be up to 3km (2 miles) thick. The ice-free coastal region, which is sometimes as wide as 200km (120 miles), covers a total of 410,449 sq km (158,475 sq miles), and is where all of the population is to be found. This region is intersected by deep fjords which connect the inland ice area with the sea. The Midnight Sun can be seen north of the Arctic Circle; the further north one is, the longer the period of the Midnight Sun. The arctic night in the winter results in a continuous twilight and, in the far north of the country, complete darkness. The Northern Lights can be seen during the autumn, winter and early spring.
Government: Part of the Kingdom of Denmark. Head of State: HM Queen Margarethe II since 1972. Head of Government: Prime Minister Hans Endeson since 2002.
Language: The official languages are Greenlandic, an Inuit (Eskimo) language and Danish. Greenlanders connected with tourism will normally speak English.
Religion: Evangelical Lutheran Church of Denmark majority, with small groups of Roman Catholics and other Protestant denominations.
Scoresby Sound
GMT - 1 (GMT from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in September).
Ammassalik and west coast
GMT - 3 (summer and winter).
Thule area
GMT - 4 (GMT - 3 from April to October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz.
Communications:
Telephone
IDD is available. Country code: 299. There are no area codes. Outgoing international code: 009. There are no telephone boxes in Greenland, but calls can be made from hotels.
Mobile telephone
GSM 900 network covers all 18 cities. Network operator is Tele Greenland (website: www.tele.gl). Handsets can be hired at Tele Greenland shops (in all cities). A deposit of DKr10,000 is required. There is also an analogue NMT network.
Fax
Services are available in telegraph stations.
Internet
The only ISP is Tele Greenland (website: www.greennet.gl). At present, there are Internet cafes in Nuuk, Sismut, Aasiaat and Itilleq. Access is available in some public libraries.
Telegram
All towns have a telegraph station.
Post
Greenland produces its own stamps which are popular among collectors. Post from Greenland takes about four to five days to reach Europe. Post office hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1500.
Press
There are no daily newspapers in Greenland, but Sermitsiaq is the main weekly publication and Niviarsiaq is published monthly. There are no English language newspapers.
BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change.
BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice):
Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov):
Passport/Visa
The regulations for Tourist and Business visas are the same as for Denmark (see Passport/Visa in the Denmark section). Visitors should specify that they wish to visit Greenland when they make their application. Special permits are necessary for persons wishing to transit in Pittuffik (Thule Airbase), as it is a North Atlantic Territory. Further information and application requirements may be obtained from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Asiatisk Plads 2, DK-1448 Copenhagen (tel: 3392 0000; fax: 3254 0533; e-mail: um@um.dk; website: www.um.dk). Visitors who wish to explore the glaciers and mountains or visit the National Park also require a special permit. Applications should be made to the Danish Polar Centre, Strangade 100H, DK-1401 Copenhagen (tel: 3288 0100; fax: 3288 0101, e-mail: dpc@ppc.dk; website: www.dpc.dk).
Money
Currency: Danish Krone (DKr) = 100 øre. Notes are in denominations of DKr1000, 500, 200, 100 and 50. Coins are in denominations of DKr20, 10, 5, 2 and 1, and 50 and 25 øre.
Note: There is no banking service in Søndre Strømfjord at present.
Currency exchange: Cheques drawn on Danish banks or on Eurocheque cards can be cashed at banks and cash can also be exchanged. There is only one bank in Greenland, Grønlandsbanken (PO Box 1033, DK-3900 Nuuk). KNI represents the banks in other towns and villages.
Credit & debit cards: Visa, Diners and Eurocard are accepted in most restaurants, shops and hotels. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available.
Travellers cheques: Cheques in major currencies may be exchanged as indicated in the currency exchange section above. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in Pounds Sterling.
Currency restrictions: The import of local currency is unlimited; export of more than DKr50,000 is allowed provided it can be proved this amount was imported or obtained by changing foreign currencies imported. The import and export of foreign currencies is unlimited.
Exchange rate indicators
The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Danish Krone against Sterling and the US Dollar:
| Date | May ’02 | Aug ’02 | Nov ’02 | Feb ’03 | | £1.00= | 11.74 | 11.61 | 11.76 | 10.94 | | $1.00= | 8.06 | 7.63 | 7.43 | 6.87 |
Banking hours: Mon-Wed and Fri 0930-1700, Thurs 0930-1800.
Duty Free
The following goods may be imported into Greenland without incurring customs duty:
100 cigarettes or 250g of tobacco; 2l of alcoholic beverages of maximum 22 per cent volume and 2l of ordinary wine; 50g perfume and 250g toilet water; goods up to a value of DKr700; 500g coffee and 100g tea.
Note: These goods must be carried by the traveller personally. Alcohol allowances are for travellers aged over 18 only.
Prohibited items: (a) Fresh food. (b) Pistols, fully- or semi-automatic weapons. (c) Narcotics. A permit is required from the carrying airline to bring a hunting rifle to Greenland, but hunting is only permitted on special hunting trips organised by a tour operator who has been authorised by the Home Rule Government to do so.
Note: Special permission is needed to export souvenirs of whales’ teeth and walrus tusks. Authorisation forms are available from shops and tourist offices in Greenland.
Public Holidays
Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Jan 6 Epiphany. Apr 17 Maundy Thursday. Apr 18 Good Friday. Apr 21 Easter Monday. May 16 Great Prayer Day. May 29 Ascension. Jun 9 Whit Monday. Jun 21 National Day. Dec 24-26 Christmas. Dec 31 New Year’s Eve. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Jan 6 Epiphany. Apr 8 Maundy Thursday. Apr 9 Good Friday. Apr 12 Easter Monday. May 7 Great Prayer Day. May 20 Ascension. May 31 Whit Monday. Jun 21 National Day. Dec 24-26 Christmas. Dec 31 New Year’s Eve.
Health
| | Special Precautions | Certificate Required | | Yellow Fever | No | No | | Cholera | No | No | | Typhoid and Polio | No | N/A | | Malaria | No | N/A |
Other risks: Hepatitis B is endemic. Extreme cold during the winter months is another potential risk to travellers.
Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix.
Health care: There are hospitals and dentists in all towns. Although medical services are generally free, medical insurance is advisable, particularly as charges are made for dental treatment. Travellers are also advised to bring their own medicines and prescribed drugs, as these can often be difficult to obtain in Greenland.
Travel - International
Note: The arctic weather conditions in Greenland may cause delays and interruptions in transport services or changes to planned itineraries. Visitors are advised to leave enough time for possible disruptions to flights and check with their airline or tour operator before flying.
AIR: Flying to Greenland by scheduled services will usually involve a stopover in Iceland or Denmark; contact SAS Scandinavian Airlines (SK) or Greenlandair (GL). Other airlines serving Greenland include FirstAir (from Ottawa) and Air Iceland.
Approximate flight times: From Greenland to London is 5 hours 30 minutes (including stopover in Copenhagen).
International airports: There are international airports at:
Nuuk (GOH), served from Canada/Frobisher Bay by First Air. Services are generally more frequent during the summer months;
Kangerlussuaq (Søndre Strømfjord) (SFJ), served from Copenhagen by SAS and Greenlandair and from Canada by FirstAir;
Narsarsuaq (UAK), served from Copenhagen by Greenlandair and from Iceland by Greenlandair and Air Iceland;
Kulusuk (KUS), served from Iceland by Air Iceland and Greenlandair;
Other international airports include Pituffik (THU) and Neerlerit Inaat (CNP).
Departure Tax: None.
Travel - Internal
AIR: Greenlandair serves all towns on the west coast, from Nanortalik in the south to Thule/Qaanaq in the north. The frequency of departure on all routes is variable, and it is advisable to make reservations well in advance. Reservations made outside Greenland will take some time to confirm. Many routes are served by helicopters or charter planes.
SEA: Arctic Umiaq Line operates services along the west coast between Aappilattoq and Upernavik. In addition, all villages are served by local boats connecting them with the nearest town, but space may be limited. Boats in some towns may be available for hire, with a skipper. Coastal Cruise Greenland offers cruises with all-inclusive flights. For further information, contact Greenland Tourism (see Contact Addresses section).
ROAD: The only places that are connected by road are Ivituut and Kangilinnguit. The harsh landscape and weather conditions make road building elsewhere a virtually impossible task. Air and sea travel are the recommended ways of getting around.
RAIL: There are no railways between towns in Greenland.
DOG SLEDGES: These can be hired for the day, or for longer periods. Sledging is possible in all towns on the east coast and on the west coast north of the polar circle. Note: It is important to remember that sledge dogs are usually only semi tame. This is just one reason why dog sledges should be given right of way at all times. Take particular care, as they are almost totally silent.
TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times (in hours and minutes) from Kangerlussuaq to other regions in Greenland:
| | Air |
| Disko Bay | 0.50 |
| South Greenland | 1.30 |
| East Greenland | 1.10 |
Accommodation
HOTELS: There are hotels in the major towns, but only those in Ammassalik, Ilulissat, Maniitsoq, Narsarsuaq, Narsaq, Nuuk, Qasigiannguit, Qaqortoq, Sisimiut, Søndre Strømfjord and Ummannaq approach European standards. There is no public accommodation in Upernavik, Thule or Scoresbysund. All reservations should be made in advance; contact Greenland Tourism or Greenland Tourism in Copenhagen (see Contact Addresses section) for information.
Grading: A star-grading system was introduced in 2000. Hotels are classified by Greenland Tourism, and gradings are roughly equivalent to those in Denmark.
CAMPING: There are no official campsites, but most places have specific areas for pitching tents. Camping is permitted everywhere except on ruins and on cultivated land in south Greenland.
IGLOOS: Started in 2000, an ‘igloo hotel’ is constructed in winter each year in Kangerlussuaq. A large central igloo is connected to six smaller ones via ice tunnels. The complex features decorative ice sculptures and ice furniture.
YOUTH HOSTELS: Youth hostel accommodation is available in Narsarsuaq, Narsaq, Kulusuk, Julianehåb, Nuuk and Ilulissat. Elsewhere in south Greenland it is possible to stay overnight in mountain huts – contact Greenland Tourism in Copenhagen for more information (see Contact Addresses section).
Introduction
Organised excursions can be arranged from every town in Greenland. However, the Disko Bay region and South Greenland are the most visited places and offer the widest selection of tours. For information on all-inclusive tours/package tours, hiking and hotels, contact Greenland Tourism in Copenhagen for a list of tour operators (see Contact Addresses section).
Greenland is not a country for those seeking an ordinary holiday. It is a place of wild and rugged scenery and clear, clean air. The region may be seen on foot, by boat, by plane, by helicopter or by dog sledge according to the season and the terrain.
Note: (a) By far the most common, and recommended, method of visiting Greenland is with a tour operator. Stories of people travelling independently and subsequently finding themselves in trouble are not uncommon. Only travellers already familiar with the country are advised to make the journey by themselves. (b) No finds may be removed from ancient monuments, which are all protected areas.
ILULISSAT (JAKOBSHAVN): In west Greenland, Ilulissat is one of the country’s growth areas and the gateway to Disko Bay and the whole of northern Greenland. Originally named Jakobshavn in honour of its Danish founder Jakob Sverin (1691-1753), the Greendlandic name Ilullissat (meaning iceberg) is now more commonly used. Local history, however, dates much further back than the founding of Jakobshavn. Sermermiut, a settlement situated a few kilometres southwest of the town, shows traces of habitation as early as 2000 BC. With a population of approximately 4700, Ilulissat boasts many modern as well as traditional buildings surrounded by breathtaking scenery. The famous explorer Knud Rasmussen was born here in 1879 and the house where he grew up has been transformed into the interesting Knud Rasmussen Museum. Motor-trips to nearby trading stations can sometimes be arranged.
SOUTH GREENLAND: In addition to Ilulissat, the main tourist centres are in South Greenland. Nuuk, the capital, with a population of 13,286, overlooked by Sermitsiaq Mountain, is a popular destination for visitors. One of the major attractions is the Greenland National Museum. It is situated near the entrance to a large fjord complex with steep mountains, lush valleys and a few small villages.
Narsarsuaq and Qassiarsuk in southern Greenland was the area first settled by the Viking Eric the Red 1000 years ago. Many ruins from this epoch of Greenland’s history still survive.
Qaqortoq is the largest town in South Greenland and the area’s administrative centre. The town has several houses of historical interest and a museum. Excursions can be arranged by the local tourist office. Narsaq tourist office also arranges regular excursions.
The area between Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut is good for walking in summer and for dog-sledge expeditions in winter. Cross-country skiing can also be arranged.
There is a small Inuit (Eskimo) museum at Qaqortoq, which includes an exact copy of a turf-built house.
There are minor local museums in most towns. The country also has many ruins of old Norse settlements and Inuit houses. For further details, contact tour operators, the Danish Tourist Board or local tourist offices in Greenland.
Sport & Activities
Fishing: During the summer period anglers come to Greenland for the superb Arctic fishing in the rivers and fjords. Fishing permits can be obtained from the local tourist offices. Persons fishing without a licence are liable to a fine and confiscation of equipment. Those interested should contact the local tourist offices for detailed information.
Hiking: Guided tours for mountain walking are available. Greenland Tourism has published colour-coded hiking maps and guides for Qaqortoq, Narsaq, Narsarsuaq in South Greenland and Ammassalik in the east. Mountain huts are often available, particularly in the region of the Narsaq and Qaqortoq peninsulas and Vatnahverfi. Glacier scaling can be performed by experienced mountaineers and skiers. All expeditions need a permit from the Danish Polar Centre, Strandgade 100H, DK-1401 Copenhagen K, Denmark (tel: 3288 0100; fax: 3288 0101; e-mail: dpc@dpc.dk). The centre also provides information about organising expeditions and stays in the National Park area. Greenland also offers excellent opportunities for those interested in activities such as geology, botany and birdwatching. Maps of the coastal area (scale 1:250,000) can be purchased from the Kort og Matrikelstyrelsen, Proviantgaarden, Rigsdagsgaarden 7, DK-1218 Copenhagen K.
Ice golf: This can be played among the ice hills on metre-thick ice in Uummannaq. Greenland’s first grass golf course has recently been inaugurated, and is situated in the countryside near Nuuq. This 9-hole course features hillocks and waterholes as obstacles. There is also a golf course among the sandy riverbanks of Kangerlussuaq.
Cruises: It is becoming increasingly popular to take cruises along Greenland’s coast, with most following the west coast, from Nuuk to Thule. Highlights include fjords, mountains, islands and icebergs. There are abundant opportunities to view wildlife including several species of whale, seals and birds. Greenland’s quality of light, one of the reasons tourists visit the country, can be especially appreciated at sea. Aspiring photographers should remember to use a UV filter or a sunlight filter and lens hood when capturing the many sights. From mid May to mid August, the Midnight Sun can be experienced in the north.
Social Profile
Food & Drink: Most hotels have restaurants of a good standard, where Danish food and Greenland specialities are served. Reindeer meat (caribou), seal and whale meat, musk ox, fowl, shrimps and fish are the most popular local food. Prices are similar to Denmark.
Shopping: The range of goods available is similar to that in an ordinary Danish provincial town, but prices are, in general, slightly higher. Alcohol, tobacco, fruit and vegetables are expensive. Special purchases include bone and soapstone carvings, skin products and beadwork. The Greenland Home Rule Administration can provide information on claiming tax back on items purchased in Greenland. Shopping hours: Mon-Thurs 1000-1730, Fri 1000-1800 and Sat 0900-1300. These will vary from region to region.
Special Events: For further details, contact Greenland Tourism in Copenhagen (see Contact Addresses section). The following is a selection of major events held in Greenland in 2003:
Mar 15-18 2003 Ninth Nuuk Snow Festival. Mar 25-Apr 1 Arctic Circle Race, starts and finishes in Sisimiut. Mar 27-Apr 1 Fifth Drambuie World Ice Golf Championship, Uummannaq. Apr Arctic Palerfik, Ilulissat. Jul 18-28 Arctic Tea Challenge, Ammassalik Island. Aug 2 Nuuk Marathon 2003, Nuuk.
Social Conventions: Life is generally conducted at a more relaxed pace than is usual in northern Europe, as exemplified by the frequent use of the word immaqa – ‘maybe’. Until recently, foreign visitors were very rare. The name of the country in Greenlandic is Kalaallit Nunaat, meaning ‘Land of the People’. Photography: Throughout the country there is a ban on taking photographs inside churches or church halls during services. A UV or skylight filter and a lens shade should always be used. In winter, the camera must be polar-oiled. It is advisable to bring your own films. Film cannot be developed in Greenland. Tipping: Service charge is usually added to the bill. Tips are not expected.
Business Profile
Economy: Fish and fish products, especially shrimps, are the territory’s most valuable exports. Greenland withdrew from the European Community (now the European Union) in February 1985 over the issue of the fisheries policy. EU member states are allowed to fish within Greenland’s maritime exclusion zone in exchange for an annual cash payment; this compensates, in part, for the loss of development aid which Greenland would otherwise have received. It also enjoys preferential access to EU markets.
Although there are plans to develop the island’s mineral deposits of iron ore, uranium, zinc, lead and coal, the economy ultimately depends on large subsidies from the Danish central government. Denmark retained a monopoly on trade with Greenland until 1950 and continues to dominate its trading patterns. The KNI – Royal Greenland Trade Department – organises transport, supplies and production in the country. Germany, Norway, the USA and France are the territory’s other significant trading partners
Business: Suits should be worn. A knowledge of Danish is extremely useful. Office hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1500.
Conferences/Conventions: The Cultural Conference Centre in Katuaq in Greenland’s principal conference site, hosting many national and international events. Contact Katuaq, PO Box 1622, DK-3900 Nuuk, Greenland. For further information on conferences and conventions, contact Greenland Tourism (see Contact Addresses section).
Climate
Greenland has an Arctic climate, but owing to the size of the country there are great variations in the weather. As the climate graph shows, winters can be severe and the summers comparatively mild, particularly in areas which are sheltered from the prevailing winds. Precipitation, mostly snow, is moderately heavy around the coast. The north of the country, and much of the interior, enjoys true Arctic weather, with the temperature only rising above freezing for brief periods in the summer.
Note: Conditions in all parts of the country can become hazardous when there is a combination of a low temperature and a strong wind. Local advice concerning weather conditions should be followed very carefully. Nevertheless, the summer months are suitable for a wide range of outdoor activities.
Required clothing: Good-quality windproof and waterproof clothes, warm jerseys and moulded sole shoes at all times of the year; also some slightly thinner clothes – it is important to be able to change clothing during a day’s climbing as temperatures can vary greatly during one day. Sunglasses and protective sun lotion are strongly advised. In July and August, mosquitoes are rather annoying, especially inside the fjords and so a mosquito net can prove indispensible. Extra warm clothes are necessary for those contemplating dog-sledge expeditions. Extra clothes are not always available for hire in Greenland.
History and Government
History: The first European settlements of Greenland were established on the west coast in the tenth century. Responsibility is usually credited to Eric the Red, reputedly the son of a Norwegian chieftain banished from his home in Iceland for murder. The colonists accepted Norwegian sovereignty around 1260, which lasted until the marginal lifestyle of the settlements finally led to their collapse in the 16th century. The territory was then unoccupied by Europeans until Denmark took possession of it during its own phase of colonial expansion in the early 18th century. It became an integral part of the Danish realm in 1953. A referendum in 1979 approved home rule within the Kingdom of Denmark, with about 75 per cent voting in favour of internal autonomy, allowing defence, foreign policy and constitutional matters to remain in the hands of Denmark. Subsequently, a new 21-member parliament was set up, since expanded to 31 seats. In 1982, in another referendum, the population voted by a narrow majority to leave the EC (as it then was) which they had joined as part of Denmark in 1972. Greenland is now an overseas territory in association with the EU. Another source of conflict between Greenland and Denmark has been the presence of a major American military radar installation at Thule in the north, which may be involved in a future US missile defence system. While most of the population would prefer it removed, the Danish government says that it is bound by treaty obligations. The issue also led to the collapse of Greenland’s coalition government in March 1987. This was an alliance of the left-wing nationalist Siumit (Forward) – the political party which grew from the nationalist opposition movement to European membership back in the 1970s – and the centrist Inuit Ataqatigiit (IA, Inuit Brotherhood). These two, plus the conservative Atassut (Solidarity) party, were the main political parties in the territory. Coalition governments have controlled the Government for the last 20-odd years: the most recent poll in February 1999 saw Siumut win the largest number of seats and form a governing coalition with Attasut under the premiership of veteran Siumit leader Jonathan Motzfeldt.
Government: Executive power rests with the five-member Landsstyre, excepting defence, foreign affairs and justice for which the Danish government is responsible. Its members are drawn from the local legislature, the Landsting (Inatsi-Satut), which has 31 members elected for four years.
Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.
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