Guatemala General Information Area: 108,889 sq km (42,042 sq miles). Population: 11,385,334 (official estimate 2000). Population Density: 104.6 per sq km (1996). Capital: Guatemala City. Population: 1,015,303 (2000). GEOGRAPHY: Guatemala is located in Central America and shares borders to the north and west with Mexico, to the southeast with El Salvador and Honduras, to the northeast with Belize and the Caribbean sea and to the south with the Pacific ocean. The landscape is predominantly mountainous and heavily forested. A string of volcanoes rises above the southern highlands along the Pacific, three of which are still active. Within this volcanic area are basins of varying sizes which hold the majority of the country’s population. The region is drained by rivers flowing into both the Pacific and the Caribbean. One basin west of the capital has no river outlet and thus has formed Lake Atitlán, which is ringed by volcanoes. To the northwest, bordering on Belize and Mexico, lies the low undulating tableland of El Petén, 36,300 sq km (14,000 sq miles) of almost inaccessible wilderness covered with dense hardwood forest. This area covers approximately one third of the national territory, yet contains only 40,000 people. Government: Republic. Gained independence from Spain in 1821. Head of State and Government: President Alfonso Antonio Portillo Cabrera since 2000. Language: The official language is Spanish. English is widely spoken in tourist areas and major hotels and restaurants. Twenty-three indigenous languages are also spoken. Religion: The constitution guarantees freedom of worship, but Catholicism is the most widespread religion with a 20 per cent Protestant minority. Some indigenous communities hold services combining Catholicism with pre-Columbian rites. Time: GMT - 6. Electricity: 110 volts AC, 60Hz. There are some regional variations. Communications:   Telephone IDD is available. Country code: 502. Outgoing international code: 00. Telephone calls to Europe are slightly cheaper between 1900 and 0700. Mobile telephone Handsets can be hired from Ruracel and other companies. Some hotels also supply them. Coverage is increasing in Guatemala; consult network operator for details. Fax Most hotels have facilities. Internet There are several Internet cafes in Guatemala City and the main tourist areas. ISPs include GuateNet (website: www.guate.net). Telegram Local telegrams can be sent from the central post office. Urgent telegrams are charged at double the ordinary rate. Post Regular airmail to Europe takes 12 days. Press Publications include El Periódico, Prensa Libre, Siglo Veintiuno, Diario Centroamérica and La Hora. English-language publications include Guatemala Weekly, Central America Report ,Siglo News and The Review. BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice): MHz 15.19 12.10 6.195 5.975 Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov): MHz 13.79 9.455 6.130 5.995 Passport/Visa   Passport Required? Visa Required? Return Ticket Required? British Yes No/1 No Australian Yes No No Canadian Yes No No USA Yes No No OtherEU Yes No/2 No Japanese Yes No/2 No Restricted entry: Entry and transit is refused to deportees of other countries who are not nationals of Guatemala. Nationals of some countries require special authorisation from the Department of Immigration in Guatemala before they are granted a visa; nationals of these countries will need to make their application to the nearest Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy). Authorisation from Guatemala will take four to five weeks and applicants are also required to attend an interview at the Consulate. For an up-to-date list of nationalities, enquire at the nearest Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy). PASSPORTS: Passport valid for at least six months required by all. VISAS: Required by all except the following: (a) 1. nationals of countries referred to in the chart above for up to three months (nationals of British Dependent Territories do require a visa) except nationals of Australia, Canada, France, Greece, Ireland, Portugal, Spain, UK and the USA for up to one month; (b) nationals of Andorra, Argentina, Belize, Brazil, Canada, Chile, China (PR), Costa Rica, El Salvador, Honduras, Israel, Liechtenstein, Mexico, Monaco, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, San Marino, Switzerland, Taiwan, Uruguay, Vatican City and Venezuela for touristic visits of up to one month; (c) transit passengers continuing their journey to a third country by the same or first connecting aircraft within eight hours, provided holding tickets with confirmed onward reservations and not leaving the transit area. Note: 2. Nationals of Andorra, Argentina, Austria, Belgium, Chile, Denmark, Finland, Germany, Israel, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, The Netherlands, Norway, Sweden, Switzerland and Uruguay may extend their visit to three months by written agreement. Types of visa and cost: Visitor/Tourist: US$25 (single-entry); US$50 (multiple-entry). Business: US$50 (multiple-entry). Validity: Visitor/Tourist visa: 90 days from date of entry. Business visa: 180 days from date of entry. Visas must be used within 30 days of issue. Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section. Application requirements: Visitor/Tourist visa: (a) Two application forms. (b) Two passport-size photos. (c) Valid passport. (d) Onward or return ticket. (e) Stamped, self-addressed, registered envelope (if applying by post). (f) Bank statements for the last three months. (g) Photocopy of credit cards (if applying by post) or the cards themselves (if applying in person). Business visa: (a)-(e) and, (f) Letter from applicant’s company in duplicate, indicating the nature and status of the company as well as the applicant’s planned activities. (g) Photocopy of passport, endorsed by the Home Office/Embassy or authorities as being a true representation of the original. (This is required in addition to the original passport.) Working days required: One. Money Currency: Quetzal (Q) = 100 centavos. Notes are in denominations of Q100, 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1. Coins are in denominations of Q1, and 50, 25, 10, 5 and 1 centavos. Currency exchange: The Quetzal is extremely difficult to obtain outside Guatemala or exchange after leaving Guatemala, and visitors are strongly advised to exchange local currency before departure. It may be difficult to negotiate notes which are torn. Unused local currency can be exchanged at the bank at the airport (opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-2000.) ATMs are common throughout the country. Credit & debit cards: Visa and American Express are accepted, whilst Diners Club and MasterCard have a more limited acceptance. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services that may be available. Travellers cheques: Accepted by most banks and good hotels, although visitors may experience occasional problems. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in US Dollars. Currency restrictions: The import and export of local currency is prohibited. The import and export of foreign currency is unlimited. Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Quetzal against Sterling and the US Dollar (official rates): Date May ’02 Aug ’02 Nov ’02 Feb ’03 £1.00= 11.43 11.99 12.23 12.43 $1.00= 7.84 7.89 7.74 7.81 Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1500 (certain branches 0900-2000), Sat 0900-1230. Duty Free The following goods may be imported into Guatemala by persons over 18 years of age without incurring customs duty: 80 cigarettes or 100g of tobacco; 1.5l of alcoholic beverages; a reasonable quantity of perfume. Restricted items: Fresh food. Public Holidays Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Apr 16-21 Holy Week. May 1 Labour Day. Jun 30 Army Day. Aug 15 Assumption (Guatemala City only). Sep 15 Independence Day. Oct 20 Revolution Day. Nov 1 All Saints’ Day. Dec 24 Christmas Eve (afternoon only). Dec 25 Christmas Day. Dec 31 New Year’s Eve (afternoon only). Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Apr 7-12 Holy Week. May 1 Labour Day. Jun 30 Army Day. Aug 15 Assumption (Guatemala City only). Sep 15 Independence Day. Oct 20 Revolution Day. Nov 1 All Saints’ Day. Dec 24 Christmas Eve (afternoon only). Dec 25 Christmas Day. Dec 31 New Year’s Eve (afternoon only). Health   Special Precautions Certificate Required Yellow Fever No 1 Cholera Yes 2 Typhoid and Polio 3 N/A Malaria 4 N/A 1: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from travellers over one year of age coming from countries with infected areas. 2: Following WHO guidelines issued in 1973, a cholera vaccination certificate is no longer a condition of entry into Guatemala. However, cases of cholera were reported in 1996 and precautions are essential. Up-to-date advice should be sought before deciding whether these precautions should include vaccination as medical opinion is divided over its effectiveness. See the Health appendix for further information. 3: Typhoid occurs. 4: Malaria risk exists throughout the year below 1500m (4921ft), especially in Alta Verapaz, Baja Verapan, Ixcan, Petén and San Marcos. Chloroquine is the recommended prophylaxis. Food & drink: Bottled water is available everywhere. Other water sources may be contaminated, and water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should have first been boiled or otherwise sterilised. Milk may be unpasteurised and should be boiled. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised, but make sure that it is reconstituted with pure water. Avoid dairy products which are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Pork, salad and mayonnaise may carry increased risk. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled. Other risks: Onchocerciasis (river blindness) occurs in localised foci in rural areas. Dengue fever may occur. Dysentery and diarrhoeal diseases are common. Visceral, cutaneous and mucocutaneous leishmaniasis also occur. Hepatitis A occurs and inoculation is recommended. Altitude sickness may be experienced in higher places such as volcanoes and mountains, and exertion should be avoided. Rabies occurs. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix. Health care: There are both public and private medical facilities in Guatemala City, but insurance is strongly advised. Some hotels offer doctor’s services to their guests. Travel - International AIR: Guatemala’s national airline is Grupo TACA. American Airlines operates daily flights to Guatemala, via Miami or Dallas. Other airlines serving Guatemala include Aeroméxico, Continental Airlines, Iberia Airlines (five flights a week from London via Madrid), Lufthansa and United Airlines. Approximate flight times: From Guatemala to London is 8-10 hours (plus stopover time in USA or Madrid), to Los Angeles is 6 hours, to New York is 6 hours and to Miami is 2 hours. International airports: Guatemala City (GUA) (La Aurora) is 4km (2.5 miles) south of the city. Airport facilities include car hire (Avis, Budget, Dollar and Hertz), duty-free shop, bar, buffet, post office, restaurant, bank, tourist information, telephones and bureaux de change. A bus to the city runs every 25 minutes (travel time – 35 minutes). Taxi services to Guatemala City are available (travel time – 20 minutes). Departure tax: US$20. SEA: There are several international passenger services from North America, the Far East and Europe to Santo Tomás de Castilla and Puerto Quetzal. Cargo services run to the Pacific ports of San José and Champerico. There are also seven direct lines linking Guatemala with the Far East. RAIL: There is no rail service at present. The national railway company is currently being transferred to the private sector. ROAD: The Pan-American Highway runs through Guatemala from Mexico in the north and El Salvador in the south covering 511km (318 miles). Access is also possible from Belize. Bus: There are bus services from Mexico and El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama. Border crossings can be subject to considerable delays. The buses used by some companies are comfortable and air conditioned, but it is vital to book as far in advance as possible for every stage of the journey. Travel - Internal AIR: Air transport is by far the most efficient means of internal travel since there are over 380 airstrips. Aerocaribe and Tikal Jets run daily flights from Guatemala City to El Petén. Inter, a subsidiary of Grupo TACA, runs scheduled flights to several towns. Private charter flights are available. ROAD: Traffic drives on the right. There is an extensive road network but less than a third of the roads are all-weather. Many of the roads are made from volcanic ash, and therefore very muddy during the rains. There are, however, about 13,000km (8000 miles) of first- and second-class roads in the country with paved highways from Guatemala City to the principal towns in the interior and to both the Atlantic and Pacific ports. Bus: The network of regular bus services between major towns is cheap but crowded. Taxi: Flat rate for short or long runs within the city although prices tend to be high. Cars can also be hired by the hour. Vehicles may be summoned by phone or in the street. There are ranks at the main international hotels. Tipping is discretionary (five to ten per cent). Car hire: Budget, National and local firms provide services in Guatemala City. Rates are low, but insurance is extra. It is also possible to hire motorcycles. It is possible to hire a car for up to 30 days with either an International Driving Permit or national licence. Regulations may vary from company to company. Documentation: A local licence will be issued on production of the visitor’s own national driving licence. URBAN: Guatemala City and major towns have limited, but cheap and regular, bus services. New circulating taxi services have been introduced in the capital. Accommodation HOTELS: There are many first-class hotels in Guatemala City and throughout the country. Many offer excellent service in restaurants, bars and nightclubs. La Antigua Guatemala (the capital until largely destroyed by earthquakes in 1773, a fate which also befell the present capital in 1976) also has a good choice of hotels. Puerto Barrios, Chichicastenango, Quetzaltenango, Panajachel (near Lake Atitlán) and Coban also have a reasonable selection of hotels, although elsewhere accommodation is more limited. Throughout the country standards are inconsistent. Registered hotels are required to display room rates; the Tourist Office in Guatemala City will deal with complaints. Tipping: Ten per cent is normal in hotels where service has not been included. Most hotels charge a 20 per cent room tax. PENSIONS & GUEST-HOUSES: Most large towns have guest-houses and boarding houses offering inexpensive accommodation. CAMPING: There are campsites throughout the country although facilities are basic. A popular excursion is to stay overnight on camping grounds on the still active Pacaya volcano to see the glow of the ashes and lava from the volcano’s eruptions. Around Lake Atitlán, camping is permitted only in designated areas. Introduction For travellers, Guatemala represents an intriguing mix. It is a diverse country with landscape that ranges from lush tropical rainforest in the northern lowlands, where some of the most spectacular Mayan archaeological sites (including Tikal) are found, to the pineforested hills of the Highlands, which are home to Mayan communities that still wear their traditional weavings. Guatemala has around 21 different ethnic groups, such as the Quichés, Mams, Tzutujils and Cakchiquels, speaking some 23 languages (21 of Mayan origin; the other two are Garifuna and Xinca). While the country’s political heart is found in the capital, Guatemala City, more attractive still is the former colonial capital, Antigua Guatemala, which is saturated with the ruins of old convents and churches and surrounded by majestic volcanoes – some still active – that are good for hiking and climbing. The Caribbean (with its fishing communities of Afro-Caribbean heritage) and Pacific coastlines offer good fishing, swimming and boating opportunities, as do the beautiful lakes of Atitlán and Izabal. Guatemala also has unspoiled tracts of virgin rainforest (protected in a network of national parks), spectacular waterfalls and underground caves (such as those in the Verapaz region). For the purposes of this section, the country has been divided into seven regions: Central Guatemala, Petén, Verapaz Region, Caribbean Coast, Eastern Guatemala, Pacific Coast and the Highlands. Central Guatemala Those visitors from overseas not landing at the international airport at Flores (for connections to Tikal) land at La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City. Other than being the primary urban centre in the country, Guatemala City is ideally positioned for visitors wishing to make the short journey by road to La Antigua Guatemala, situated 45km (28 miles away). GUATEMALA CITY: There were three attempts to establish a capital before Guatemala City was founded in 1775. The first colonial settlement called Santiago de los Caballeros Guatemala was built in 1524 by the conquistador, Pedro de Alvarado close to the Cakchiquel settlement of Iximché (near the present day town of Tecpán – see Iximché under The Highlands section). After continuing battles with the Cakchiquel warriors, the capital was relocated in 1527 to the Almolonga Valley, near present-day San Miguel Escobar, between the volcanoes Agua and Fuego until an earthquake destroyed it in 1541. A third capital was then established just a few kilometres away on the present site of La Antigua Guatemala in the Panchoy Valley (see the Antigua section below). Established as the new city in 1543, it was decided to retain the name of Santiago while the former (second) capital was referred to as Ciudad Vieja or Old City. The new capital grew in wealth, size and prestige, surviving a number of earthquakes until 1773, when it was hit by a huge earthquake and eventually abandoned. The capital moved to its present location while the former capital was known was thereafter known as La Antigua Guatemala or Old Guatemala. The capital, Guatemala City lies at the edge of a plateau cut by deep ravines in the Valley of the Hermitage. Few colonial buildings remain but the old quarter, with its low colonial houses, is situated in the northern part of the city. The main plaza, Parque Central lies at its heart and is bordered by the National Palace, the Cathedral, the National Library and an arcade of shops. In the south of the city, close to the airport and the national racecourse, are Parque La Aurora, which contains the zoo, the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology and the Ixchel Museum, housing a good collection of handwoven textiles. Other museums with fine collections include the Popol Vuh Museum (a private collection of Mayan and Spanish colonial art) and the National Museum of Modern Art. Some of the most interesting religious buildings (mainly either neo-classical or Baroque) include the 17th-century Hermitage of El Carmen and the churches of La Merced, Santo Domingo, Santuario Expiatorio, Las Capuchinas, Santa Rosa and Capilla de Yurrita (built in the first half of the 20th century). LA ANTIGUA GUATEMALA: The former capital (originally called Santiago de los Caballeros Guatemala), Antigua is situated southwest of Guatemala City, and was considered to be one of the most splendid cities in Central America before its partial destruction in the earthquake of 1773. Further devastation to many buildings was wreaked in the massive earthquake in 1976 and the town is now a UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site. Despite the damage of countless earthquakes, floods and fires, Antigua is a beautiful place of multi-coloured, single-storey buildings, tropical gardens, plazas, fountains and cobbled streets. A popular tourist centre, it has several good hotels, restaurants and bookshops with a fairly lively nightlife. Monuments, former palaces, convents and churches that have survived in varying degrees of intactness include the Main Square, Cathedral, Palace of the Captains General, University of San Carlos(containing the Museum of Colonial Art), and the churches of La Merced, Santa Clara, Las Capuchinas, La Recolección and San Francisco. The Casa Santa Domingo is a former convent that is now a smart hotel with two small but fine collections housed in the Colonial and Archaeological museums. The town is particularly busy at Easter time where locals and visitors flock to see the spectacular Easter processions when huge litters bearing religious icons are carried over carpets of flowers and coloured sawdust. Antigua is also one of the main centres for Spanish-language schools in Guatemala. Beyond Antigua: Just outside the town is a coffee plantation, which now houses the small but interesting Coffee Museum (Museo del Café) and Music Museum (Casa K’ojom). (K’ojom means music in the Cakchiquel language). Three nearby volcanoes, Agua, Acatenango and Fuego, all offer incomparable views of the city and surrounding countryside. Santa María de Jesús is the starting point for climbing to the crater of the Agua Volcano. Two towns worth visiting for their fine crafts are Jocotenango (a centre for ceramics, as well as the site of a lively fiesta held to celebrate the feast day of the Virgin of the Ascension on 15 August) and San Antonio Aguascalientes (for beautiful handwoven textiles). The Day of the Dead festival (on 1 November) is a celebrated ritual in Santiago Sacatepéguez when hundreds of multi-coloured circular or hexagonal kites, made from bamboo or tissue paper (increasingly polyester or plastic) are flown in honour of the dead. Petén The vast tropical lowland jungles of the Petén department share borders with Belize to the east and Mexico to the north and west. It is home to most of the major Mayan sites in Guatemala and many visitors exploring the Mayan sites in all three countries tend to fly direct from either Mexico or Belize into the international airport at Flores. Most of the major Mayan sites are located in this department. FLORES: This former Mayan ceremonial centre is built on an island in the middle of Lake Petén Itza. None of the Mayan structures survived the arrival of the conquistadors who built their main plaza, church and government building on the top of the hill in the centre of the island. The town’s hotels, restaurants and shops are laid out below. A causeway connects Flores to the mainland town of Santa Elena, where the banks and main shops are located. Buses run throughout the day from both Santa Elena and Flores to Tikal, passing through the pleasant village of El Remate, which has a couple of lakeside restaurants, lodgings and language schools. Also accessible from Flores is the Cerro Cahuí Biosphere – a 600-hectare (1482 acres) nature reserve that contains cedar, sapodilla, indigo and mahogany trees, orchids and ferns as well as fauna such as white-tailed deer, armadillos, spider monkeys, hawks, parrots and toucans. From October to April, hundreds of migratory birds settle in the reserve. TIKAL: The spectacular Mayan ruins of Tikal (City of Voices) encompass vast pyramidal temples, ball courts, causeways, plazas and public buildings that extend over some 16 sq km (6 sq miles). While there are about 3000 known structures, many more lie buried under dense jungle vegetation. First occupied in about 800 BC, this great city was eventually abandoned around 1000 years later. Copies of some of the more elaborate friezes, stelae, sculptures and bas-reliefs are found in the Sylvanus Morley Museum, which is near the entrance. At least two days are recommended to see all of the archaeological sites. Visitors can stay in the park lodges, in Flores, Santa Elena or El Remate, and guided tours around the ruins can be arranged both for the evening and at sunrise. The site is located in the heart of Tikal National Park, where there are over 50,587 hectares (125,000 acres) of rare forest (kapoka, breadnut, mahogany and cedar) and tropical vegetation. Wildlife that can be seen there includes howler monkeys, tropical birds, reptiles, red coates, racoons and white-tailed deer. Tikal National Park is itself situated in the much larger Mayan Biosphere Reserve. Other Mayan sites in north Petén: Several Mayan sites are currently under excavation, one of the most impressive of which is El Mirador, about 4km (2.5 miles) from the Mexican border. Also in the northern part of the department, Uaxactún (Eight Stones) shows how developed the Mayan civilisation had become by the ninth century AD. Building E-VII-B was used for determining the precise dates of the equinoxes and the solstices. Ixlú was an important lake port, situated in between the Petén Itza and Salpetén lagoons. Further east, on the edge of the Yaxhá Lagoon, Yaxhá (Green Water) is an extensive Mayan site of terraces, plazas and causeways. North from here are the smaller sites of Nakum and Naranjo. SAYAXCHÉ: This town in the southern part of the Petén department provides a good starting point for exploring other major Mayan sites. Ceibal, southeast of Sayaxché, has a small observatory that was designed to pinpoint the location of galaxies, planets and stars. It is also where some of the finest post-Classical stelae (AD 900 to 1523), carved with large anthropomorphous clay figures, were recovered. Other impressive stelae representing battle scenes were found at Dos Pilas. Southeast from here, the post-Classical site of Aguateca was once an important ceremonial centre. Verapaz Region This region is made up of the two departments of Alta (high) and Baja (Low) Verapaz, which are located in the north central part of Guatemala. While many of the towns and villages retain their folklore, traditional handcrafts and religious feast days, the region is also a prime destination for whitewater rafting, caving and other outdoor activities. As access may be difficult or remote, many of the national parks and rivers need to be visited with registered guides and four-wheel drive vehicles, either arranged privately or as part of a package offered by tour operators. COBÁN: This is the capital of the Alta Verapaz department that, along with Antigua, produces some of the best coffee in Guatemala. Situated on the banks of the Cahabón River, the town’s colonial past is reflected in its architecture, such as that of the El Calvario church. It is also a centre for the production of many fine silver handicrafts. Celebrations to mark the ancient Mayan feast of Paabanc are still held in Cobán and San Pedro Carchá to the east. Some of the region’s most colourful handwoven clothes can be seen in towns and villages such as Tactic, San Juan Chamelco and Lanquín. One of the highlights of the region are the Semuc Champey Waterfalls, which are formed as the Cahabón River falls some 300m (985ft) across rocks and ledges. Around 10km (6 miles) further on, the river enters the Languin Caves, parts of which can be explored with a guide, either on foot or by boat. Some 200km (124 miles) from Cobán is the National Park of Lanchúa, which is a very humid, subtropical rainforest teeming with many species of mammals and amphibians. Visitors to the park will need a guide and full camping equipment. From the Lanchuá Lagoon, it is possible to take a boat to explore parts of the Caves of Candelaria. These ancient caves were considered sacred by the Maya and remnants of ceremonial altars and pots have been found here. SALAMÁ: The attractive departmental capital of Baja Verapaz is a good place to buy souvenirs handcrafted from silver, clay and leather. The nearby town of Purulhá is the location for the Mario Dary Rivera Nature Reserve, which was set up to protect the quetzal, Guatemala’s national bird and a symbol of liberty. Two walking trails cut through the cloudforest, where visitors can see about 50 different types of trees and a variety of tropical birds such as toucans, hummingbirds and macaws. Caribbean Coast Caribbean Guatemala is less developed than some other parts of the country in terms of tourism infrastructure. As a result, the villages along the coast, inland and around Lake Izabal, Guatemala’s largest, remain unspoiled. The coast has strong Afro-Caribbean influences as black Afro-Guatemalans known as Garífunas, the descendants of former African slaves who intermarried with the indigenous Maya, settled here. Caribbean traditions remain evident in the area’s music, festivals and cooking (in dishes such as tapado – made with fresh fish, coconut milk and green bananas). Sailing, fishing, swimming and scuba diving are all popular activities and trips to the Belize Keys (such as the Cayos Sapodillas) are possible. PUERTO BARRIOS: The main port, Puerto Barrios is the capital of the Izabal department. It is a safe harbour for yachts and the starting point for trips up the inland waterways and rivers that crisscross the region. Southeast of Puerto Barrios is the remarkable UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site of Quiriguá. The Maya carved stelae and altars with intricate details that reveal much of their beliefs, animal deities, battles, the feats of their kings and cosmology. Stela E, at 11m high (36ft), is one of the tallest that has been recovered across the former Mayan Empire. LIVINGSTON: Accessible from Puerto Barrios, this small town of brightly painted wooden houses and balconies is located in the jungle among coconut groves. Formerly the departure point for coffee farmed in the plantations of the Verapaz region, it still has a small fishing economy. Celebrations during Easter Week and on 12 December (the feast day of the Virgin of Guadalupe) are particularly colourful. From Livingston, boat trips can be taken along the Río Dulce, a jungle river that has its source in Lake Izabal and winds its way between steep cliffs and dense vegetation, through the lake of El Golfete, to flow into the Amatique Bay. Along the river, near Fronteras, is the fort of San Felipe, which was constructed by the Spanish in the 17th century as a defence against pirate attacks. The waterways of the river also pass through the mangrove swamps and lagoons of the Chocón Machacas Biosphere. This is a habitat for the endangered manatee (sea cow), which is Guatemala’s largest aquatic mammal. North of Livingston is the Siete Altares, a series of waterfalls and pools, which have been formed where the Río Dulce empties into the Caribbean. Eastern Guatemala Encompassing parts of the El Progreso, Zacapa, Jalapa, Chiquimula, Santa Rosa and Jutiapa departments, this is one of the most varied regions in the country – both geographically and culturally. Visitors can tour fine colonial churches, small local museums, coffee plantations and buy excellent handcrafted souvenirs while travelling through a changing landscape of subtropical forests, past volcanic peaks and sulphurous lakes. EL PROGRESO & ZACAPA DEPARTMENTS: Two of the finest examples of 16th-century Baroque architecture can be found about 90km (56 miles) from Guatemala City in the parish churches of San Agustin Acasaguastlán and San Cristóbal Acasaguastlán in El Progreso. The departmental capital of Zacapa is well known for its distinctive handwoven cloth and for its small Museum of Paleontology, Archaeology and Geology. Nearby Estanzuela also has a Paleontology Museum. CHIQUIMULA & JALAPA DEPARTMENTS: The town of Esquipulas in the Chiquimula Department is one of the most significant in Central America. Second only in importance to the shrine of the Virgin of Guadalupe outside Mexico City is the Basilica of Esquipulas with its Icon of the Black Christ that dates back to 1595. Pilgrims from all over Central America gather here on the feast day of 15 January. Esquipulas is also the seat of the Central American Parliament and, given its location just a short distance from the borders with Honduras and El Salvador, it has also been the place where several important peace agreements have been signed. Other attractions include the Franciscan Sanctuary, Belén Convent and colonial Little Bridge (Puente Chiquito). Montecristo National Park (the Tri-State Park) is located nearby and extends over the borders of all three countries. Over half of its 12,000 hectares (29,652 acres) of humid and subtropical forest are in Guatemala. The villages, forests and mountains of Mataquescuintla are home to the Pocomam Indians who produce some outstanding textiles and ceramics. Under the Spanish Rural Tourism Plan, visitors can travel on horseback, by bicycle, on foot or by four-wheel drive vehicle from Quetzaltepeque, through San Luis Jiltepeque to the attractive departmental capital of Jalapa, staying in family homes en route. SANTA ROSA DEPARTMENT: Located near Pueblo Nuevo Viñas and surrounded by mountains and forests is sulphurous Lake Ixpaco, which is the site of many springs that are believed to have healing properties. Northwest through a landscape of pine forests and low subtropical mountains is Ayarza Lagoon, also slightly sulphurous but with shoals of tilapias and mojarras. Pacific Coast The Pacific coastline stretches some 250km (155 miles) from the Mexican border in the west to the border with El Salvador to the east and includes parts of six administrative departments. The region is characterised by black volcanic sand beaches on the coast; mangrove swamps irrigated by numerous rivers behind and lush, subtropical forests further inland. Agriculture is the prime industry, with extensive coffee, sugar cane, cardamom, cotton and banana plantations. As well as enjoying watersports and swimming on the coast and exploring the rainforests and swamps with their unique habitats, visitors can tour several important Olmec archaeological sites. SAN JOSÉ: After Puerto Barrios on the Caribbean, San José is the country’s second-largest port, which is connected to Guatemala City in the north by Highway CA9 (more commonly known as the Pan American Highway). There are several seaside resorts on either side of San José where a variety of watersports are available. The waters here have abundant marine life (such as red snapper, tarpon, bass and sailfish) and the sea fishing is rated very highly. To the west, an interesting journey can be taken by launch from the old Spanish port of Iztapa through the Chiquimulilla Canal, which runs through mangrove swamps rich with plant life such as water lilies and irises. This canal is part of the Monterrico Nature Reserve, which was created to conserve coastal wildlife such as the green iguana, marine turtle and crocodile. ESCUINTLA DEPARTMENT: Guatemala has 33 volcanoes, three of which are still active. Although not the highest, one of the most dramatic is the Pacaya Volcano (2252m/7388ft), which is located about halfway between Guatemala City and Escuintla. During periods of activity, guided tours are organised to watch the eruptions and the lava flows. When inactive, an ascent of the volcano can be made by a marked route from San Francisco de Sales. Northwest of Escuintla are the sugarcane fields of Santa Lucía Cotzumalguapa. The remains of great stone heads and other carved reliefs are dotted throughout the fields belonging to three fincas (plantations) – Bilbao, El Baúl and Las Ilusiones. South from here is the site of La Democracia, which contains dramatic basalt sculptures of heads with closed eyes and furrowed brows. RETALHULEU DEPARTMENT: North of Retalhuleu is El Asintal and the site of Abaj Takalik (‘standing stone’ in the Quiché language). This is one of the few sites that has remnants of terraces, carved stones, inscribed altars and calendars from two civilisations: the Mayan and the Olmec, who preceded the Mayas. A little further east in San Martin Zapotitlán is the Xocomil Aquatic Park – a theme park with pools and waterslides built around replica Mayan temples, palaces and sanctuaries. The Highlands Known in Spanish as El Altiplano, the highlands region is one of the most popular for visitors to Guatemala. The towns and villages there are inhabited by the greatest number of modern day, indigenous Mayan groups – many of whom still speak the languages and uphold the sacred rituals of their ancestors. Although this practice is gradually dying out, many of the villagers in more remote areas still wear traditional handwoven garments and market days or fiesta celebrations are the best times for visitors to appreciate their vibrant colours. While the main towns are connected with paved highways, some of the outlying villages are accessible only by four-wheel vehicles. Tourism infrastructure, however, is developing all the time. HUEHUETENANGO: The departmental capital of Huehuetenango makes a good base for exploring as it has more accommodation options and facilities than some of the smaller villages surrounding it. To the west is the small post-Classical site of Zaculeu (White Land in the Quiché language). A number of tombs containing objects carved from pyrite and ceramic vessels have been found here. North of Huehuetenango is Chintla whose church contains the silver Virgin of La Candelaria, which draws many worshippers. A beautiful drive into the mountains further north in the region lies the isolated village of Todos Santos Cuchumatán. The men’s traditional costumes of high-necked red shirts, red and white-striped trousers, black capes and red fabric tied under straw hats are particularly smart. One of the best times to visit is during the annual fiesta between 31 October and 5 November. On the Day of the Dead (All Souls’ Day) on 1 November, a traditional horse race takes place in the village. Fuelled by quetzalteca (the local sugar cane spirit), the riders in traditional costume race up and down a dirt track at the far end of the village. The winner is the last man still on his horse. SANTA CRUZ DEL QUICHÉ: The Spanish used the carved stones from the ancient Mayan Quiché capital they had destroyed to build the church in Santa Cruz. The town has a good market but even more famous are the market days held every Thursday and Saturday in the small hill village of Chichicastenango, 19km (12 miles) to the south. Mayan traders from outlying villages spread their traditional food, cloth and wooden masks on stalls around the steps of the Church of St Thomas in a wonderfully colourful spectacle. Many others come to burn copal (incense) and pray on the church steps, combining ancient Mayan and Catholic rituals. On the south side of the main square, the Regional Museum houses a fine collection of jade and ceramic pieces and incense burners. Located on a hilltop above the town is the Mayan stone idol of Pascual Abaj. TOTONICAPAN: The regional capital, Totonicapán is a thriving industrial town. One of the best times to visit is during the week celebrating the feast days of San Miguel Arcangel (24-30 September) when traditional dances (morerias) are held here with descriptive titles such as Mexicans, The Deer and the Monkey and Mexicans. To the west is San Cristobal Totonicapán, whose market day on Thursday is the best time to purchase outstanding ceramics. It is also an important centre for textiles. Momostenango (City of Altars), in the north, is the centre for traditional handwoven ponchos. QUETZALTENANGO: After the capital, this is the second most important city in Guatemala, set amongst a group of high mountains and volcanoes. Although Quetzaltenago (often referred to as Xela) is quite modern, it also contains narrow colonial streets, broad avenues, fine public buildings such as the neo-classical City Hall, Municipal Theatre and Natural History Museum, and a magnificent central plaza. It is also an important centre for language schools. Other places to visit outside the city are the hot sulphur springs at Fuentes Georginas, Aguas Amargas and Los Vahos. Several picturesque towns include Salcajá with the 16th-century Church of San Jacinto, Zunil, dominated by the ornate façade of its church and one of the places where Maximón is still worshipped actively (see Santiago Atitlán below), San Andrés Xecul and San Francisco El Alto. SOLOLA: The road through Solola winds down to the beautiful, volcanic Lake Atitlán, much praised by Aldous Huxley, and is surrounded by purple highlands, olive-green mountains and three distinctive volcanoes – Tolimán, Atitlán and San Pedro. Although there are some small hotels around the edge of the lake, most visitors stay at Panajachel, the key tourist centre with a long strip of guesthouses, restaurants, bookshops, cafes and banks. Water-skiing, swimming and boating are all available on the lake, which is 19km (12 miles) in length and between 6.5km (4 miles) and 12km (7.5 miles) wide. Around the lake are several villages, each of whose inhabitants wear differently coloured, densely embroidered clothes. Santiago Atitlán is the largest of these. Easter Week is famous for combining two traditions – the Catholic Easter procession and the rival procession conducted by the confradia (religious brotherhood). Their idol is Maximón – a black-suited figure with a moustache that combines physical characteristics and attributes of St Simon, Mam (a Mayan god), Alvarado (the Guatemalan conquistador) and Judas Iscariot. Inside the church, a little Maximón figure is carved into the altar, as is a scene showing the feast day of the confradia. Some of the women in Santiago still wear traditional headdresses that are made from long lengths of cloth wound repeatedly around the back of the head (a visual reference to Ixchel, the snake goddess of weaving). In San Antonio Palopó, the women weave on long rectangular backstrap looms. The men use the standing loom introduced by the Spanish and wear a type of wrap-around brown and white kilt. Both men and women in San Catarina Palopó wear shirts, huipiles (blouses), skirts and trousers embroidered with colourful geometric designs. CHIMALTENANGO: Northwest of Chimaltenango is the important fortified hilltop site of Iximché. Having conquered the Cakchiquel warriors, the Spanish conquistadors established their first capital near here in 1524. Today, there are well-preserved ruins of the former ball court, four main plazas and a temple. Almost on the border with the Quiché department is the site of Mixco Viejo (Pocomán), which was also a fortified city like Iximché. A shrine to San Simon (Maximón) is also found at San Andreas Iztapa. Sport & Activities Mountaineering: This is practised on and around Guatemala’s volcanoes. At 4200m (13,776ft) above sea level, the Tajumulco in the San Marcos region is the highest volcano in Central America. In spite of this, it is technically an easy climb. Those requiring something more challenging can try the Tolimán, with its 3158-metre (10,358 foot) twin peak summit. An easier climb is the San Pedro volcano, whose summit can be reached in about six hours. One of the most visited volcanoes, given its proximity to Guatemala City, is Pacaya at 2252m (7386ft). Excursions to this constantly erupting volcano must be made in a group and with a guide. The ascent of the Agua (or Hunapu) volcano at 3776m (1233ft) gives the opportunity to spend the night in the crater where there is a refuge for 30 people. Aktun Kan, Jobtzinaj, Lanquín and La Candelaria are principal locations for caving. Watersports: Rio Dulce and Lakes Izabal and Atitlán are good for windsurfing, with Lake Atitlán also popular for diving. Guatemala’s fast-moving rivers, including La Pasion, El Chiquibul, El Usamacinta, El Motagua and El Cahabon are ideal for boating and rapids shooting. Lakes and rivers suitable for fishing include El Petén, Rio Dulce, El Lago de Izabal and the rivers of Alta Verepaz. The Pacific Coast is one of the best places worldwide for sports fishing. Birdwatching is also recommended at these locations. Other: There are around half a dozen 18-hole golf courses in Guatemala, with others currently under construction. Facilities at the Guatemala Country Club and and San Isidro courses, 8 km (5 miles)and 10km (5.5 miles) from the city respectively, are open to members only. The course at the Hacienda Nueva Country Club, is open to the public. Other courses are at the Alta Vista Country Club in San José Pinula, which also had other sporting facilities, and Mayan Golf in Villa Nueva. Green Place in Guatemala City has a 9-hole course. Cycling is popular in Panajachel, Santa Catarina Palopó, La Antigua Guatemala, Izabál, the Guatemalan Altiplano and the plains of El Petén. Social Profile Food & Drink: There is a variety of restaurants and cafes serving a wide selection of cooking styles including American, Argentinian, Chinese, French, Italian, Japanese, Mexican and Spanish. Fast-food chains also have outlets here and there are many continental-style cafes. The visitor should note that food varies in price rather than quality. Nightlife: In Guatemala City in particular, there are nightclubs and discos with modern music and dance, featuring national and international artists. Guatemala is the home of marimba music, which can be heard at several venues. In the cities, the marimba is a huge elaborate xylophone with large drum sticks played by four to nine players. In rural areas the sounding boxes are made of different shaped gourds (marimbas de tecomates). There are regular concerts throughout Guatemala. There are also theatres and numerous plays in English and other cultural performances. Films with English and Spanish subtitles are often shown in major towns. The most important museums and art galleries are found in Guatemala City, La Antigua Guatemala and Tikal National Park. Shopping: Special purchases include textiles, handicrafts, jewellery, jade carvings, leather goods, ceramics and basketry. Markets are best for local products and bargaining is necessary. Ceramics can be purchased cheaply in many places including Villa de Chinautla, San Luis Jilotepeque and Rabinal. Cobán is the cheapest place to buy silverware. The Central Market in Guatemala City and the Craft Market provide a range of crafts combining traditional and modern styles. Guatemala City contains many modern shopping centres and malls. Gran Centro Comercial Los Proceres, Galerias La Pradera, Plaza Cemaco and Geminis International Mall are all located in Zone 10. In addition, visitors may make use of the facilities at Tikal Futura, Peri-Roosevelt Shopping Mall and the Century Shopping Centre. Shopping hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1930. Malls are also open on Sunday. Special Events: For further details, contact the Guatemala Tourist Commission (see Contact Addresses). The following is a selection of festivals and cultural events held in Guatemala during 2003: Apr 13-20 Easter Processions, Antigua. Nov 1-2 Day of the Dead (celebrations and horse racing), Todos Santos. Nov 2 Day of the Dead Kite Festival, Santiago Sacatepequez. Dec 7 La Quema del Diablo (burning of the devil), Antigua. Dec 21 Festival de San Tomas (festival of Saint Thomas), Chichicastenango. Social Conventions: Guatemala is the most populated of the Central American republics and is the only one which is predominantly Indian, although the Spanish have had a strong influence on the way of life. Full names should be used when addressing acquaintances, particularly in business. Dress is conservative and casual wear is suitable except in the smartest dining rooms and clubs. Tipping: Ten per cent is normal in restaurants where service has not been included. Business Profile Economy: Coffee is the leading export in this largely agricultural economy, accounting for about one third of foreign earnings. Other major crops are sugar cane, bananas, cardamom and cotton. In the fishing industry, shrimps are a significant export earner. Guatemala boasts the largest manufacturing sector in Central America, accounting for 20 per cent of GDP, and produces processed foods, textiles, paper, pharmaceuticals and rubber goods. Oil deposits, first discovered in the mid 1970s, are being exploited by French and American concerns but the country remains a marginal producer and continues to rely heavily on imported oil. There is a small mining industry producing marble, copper, lead, zinc and other metals. Although Guatemala has received solid support from the USA and international institutions such as the Inter-American Development Bank and the IMF, its economic development in the last 25 years has been undermined by chronic internal conflict, exacerbated by several major natural disasters and low prices for Guatemala’s main export commodities. Nonetheless, the economy has grown steadily in the last few years and is currently four per cent. The USA is substantially Guatemala’s largest trading partner, followed by El Salvador, Honduras, Mexico and some EU countries, notably Germany and Italy. Guatemala is a member of the Central American Common Market. Business: Guatemalan businessmen tend to be rather formal and conservative. Normal courtesies should be observed and appointments should be made. Punctuality is appreciated and calling cards can be useful. Office hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat 0800-1200. Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Cámara de Comercio de Guatemala (Chamber of Commerce), 10A Calle 3-80, Zona 1, Guatemala City (tel: 232 4545 or 253 5353; fax: 220 9393; e-mail: info@camaradecomercio.org.gt; website: www.guatemala-chamber.org); or Cámara de Industria, Ruta 6 9-21, Zona 4, Edificio Cámara de Industria, Guatemala City (tel: 332 3481 or 331 6305). Conferences/Conventions: Guatemala has the facilities and hotel infrastructure for conventions, conferences and business meetings. The Centro Cultural Miguel Angel Asturias and other modern conference centres are available for such events, often quite close, or accessible to Guatemala’s beauty spots. For further information regarding conference facilities, contact Guatemala Tourist Commission (see Contact Addresses section). Climate Guatemala’s climate varies according to altitude. The coastal regions and the northeast are hot throughout the year with an average temperature of 20°C (68°F) sometimes rising to 37°C (99°F). Generally, nights are clear all year round. In higher climes, near the centre of the country, the rainy season, running from May to September, is characterised by clear skies after abundant rainfall in the afternoons and evenings. Temperatures fall sharply at night. Required clothing: Lightweight tropicals. Jacket or light woollens for the evening. History and Government History: The Mayans were dominant through much of Central America from the fifth until the eighth century when their civilisation declined and a variety of other ethnic groups moved into the region. Europeans arrived in the 15th century, and Guatemala was one of the territories overrun by the Spanish conquistador Cortés in the 17th century. Pressure on their empire during the early 19th century forced the Spanish to concede independence to their American colonies, principally Mexico, into which Guatemala was briefly incorporated in 1822. Subsequent plans to fuse the countries of the Central American isthmus were equally short lived. Guatemala enjoyed comparative stability, punctuated by brief periods of upheaval, under a series of dictators who were content to keep the country under a quasi-feudal regime underpinned by a small clique of land-owning families. The government of Colonel Arbenz Guzman attempted various land reforms in the early 1950s, but was overthrown by a US-backed invasion led by military opponents of Arbenz. The country then slid into a state of almost perpetual civil war between a series of right-wing military governments and various leftist guerrilla movements: the conflict was characterised by a level of human rights abuse exceptional even for civil war, the legacy of which still casts a shadow over the country today. Although Guatemala has completed a successful transition from military to civilian government, the military retains considerable political power. This transition began in May 1985, when Guatemala’s new constitution was put into effect. The centre-right Partido Democracia Cristiana Guatemalteca (PDCG) formed the majority party in the new National Congress. The Christian Democrats retained a monopoly on power until 1995, when they met serious challenges from the Plan por el Adelantamiento Nacional (National Advance Party, PAN), which is dominated by business interests, and the Frente Republicano - Guatemalteco (FRG), which enjoys close relations with the army and a coterie of established landowners. A period of political musical chairs ended at the start of 1995 with a FRGPDCG coalition in control of the legislature. The 1995 election was notable for the participation, for the first time, of some left-wing parties allied to the anti-government guerrillas. They had previously boycotted the political process in the absence of a political settlement between the Government and the left-wing guerrillas. This was eventually reached the following year, 1996. A key component of the deal, which many found difficult to accept, was that the culprits in the worst human rights abuses – the vast majority of which were carried out by the military – would go unpunished (see below). The most recent polls in November 1999 brought victory for the FRG whose presidential candidate, Alfonso Portillo Cabrera (known by his peculiar nickname ‘Husky Chicken’), defeated the PAN’s Oscar ‘The Rabbit’ Berger at the run-off while the FRG obtained a small absolute majority in the National Assembly. The FRG and PAN now dominate Guatemalan politics. Only now has the Government been prepared to admit that its predecessors, especially the Rios Montt military regime, were responsible for massive human rights abuses: this is still a central and highly sensitive issue in Guatemalan domestic politics. An exhaustive investigation into the conduct of the civil war by the Catholic bishop Juan Gerardi concluded in 1998 that the army was responsible for 90 per cent of the killings (as if to prove his point, Gerardi was promptly assassinated). Rios Montt, a former army Chief of Staff, ex-President and architect of several failed coups, is a significant influence on the Portillo government. He is due to face judicial accusations of genocide in 2002 brought by human rights groups. Whether any court will have the courage to convict him is another matter. In July 2002, the Pope visited Guatemala, a deeply Catholic country, and canonised the country’s first saint, the 17th-century missionary Pedro de San Jose de Betancur. Abroad, the main issue facing the country remains the dispute with neighbouring Belize, over which Guatemala has territorial claims; 1993 saw the signing of a non-aggression pact by the two governments, and as a concession, Belize granted the Guatemalans access to its maritime facilities. The following year, however, the Guatemalan government reasserted its territorial claim at the UN; in 2000, it did so again, claiming half of Belize’s current territory. Since then, despite the resumption of talks between the two governments under the auspices of the UN, there have been a number of border clashes and relations are still tense. Government: Under the 1986 constitution, legislative power is vested in a single-chamber elected assembly with 80 members directly elected every four years. The President, also elected every four years, holds executive power. Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.