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The Coast
ISTRIA: Istria is the largest peninsula on the Croatian coast and thanks to its easy transport links with nearby Italy and Austria, has also become the country’s major tourist destination. The region’s administrative centre and chief port, Pula, was founded by the Romans in the fifth century BC. Several interesting buildings remain from this period, notably the Arena, a well-preserved amphitheatre, which hosts summer concerts and the annual film festival. The city is a good starting point for excursions to Brijuni National Park, an archipelago of 14 unspoilt islands. It is possible to stay overnight on the largest island, Veli Brijun, where a range of tourist facilities are available. On the west coast of Istria lies Croatia’s most visited resort, Porec. Fortunately the large hotel complexes of Plava Laguna and Zelena Laguna are situated out of town a little way along the coast, leaving the historic centre intact. Built on a small peninsular, Porec dates back to Roman times, and its star attraction is the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Euphrasius Basilica, decorated with stunning sixth-century Byzantine mosaics. Istria’s second most popular resort, Rovinj, was originally built on a small island, though the narrow strait that separated it from the mainland was filled in during the 18th century. Just out of town lies Zlatni Rt, a blissful park affording access to several secluded coves for bathing. Also by the sea, midway between Porec and Rovinj, lies Vrsar, home to Koversada, Europe’s largest nudist resort. Inland Istria, with romantic hill towns such as Motovun and Grožnjan, makes an ideal day trip from the coast.
KVARNER: The economic and administrative centre of this popular and busy island region is Rijeka, Croatia’s largest port. Other than Trsat Castle, built on a hilltop commanding splendid views out to sea, Rijeka has little of architectural interest, its main claim to fame being the exuberant celebrations it puts on each year in February for Carnival. The main touristic centres of the Kvarner region are Opatija, Crikvenica and Novi Vinodolski (sometimes referred to as the ‘three rivieras’), all of which have extensive pebble beaches complemented by good accommodation and recreational facilities. Opatija, Croatia’s oldest tourist resort, was popular with the Austro-Hungarian nobility and some of its former Fin-de-Siecle elegance remains. Of the many islands scattered throughout the Kvarner Bay, Krk, connected to the mainland by a road bridge, is the most developed as well as the largest, with clean beaches and extensive tourist facilities. Further out lie Rab, home to the delightful medieval Rab Town with a number of elegant Romanesque bell towers; Cres, which contains the Vransko Lake and is popular with nature lovers; and Lošinj, which has pine woods and numerous bays with beaches. Inland from Rijeka, the Risnjak National Park is located in the mountains of Gorski Kotar and rises to 1528m (510ft) above sea level, making it a popular destination for hiking and climbing.
NORTHERN DALMATIA: The chief city and port in the region is Zadar, the historic centre of which is made up of narrow cobbled streets, some Roman remains and several interesting churches, notably the 12th-century Romanesque Cathedral. However, the region’s main attraction is the Kornati National Park, an archipelago consisting of over 90 islands scattered over an area of 300 sq km. Virtually uninhabited, the islands display a harsh, rocky landscape practically devoid of vegetation. Most visitors arrive on organised day trips by boat, though several renovated stone cottages provide ‘Robinson Crusoe’ type holiday accommodation. Inland from Zadar, on the southern slopes of the Velebit Massif, lies Paklenica National Park, a popular destination for hiking and climbing. The region’s second city is Šibenik, worth seeing for its 15th-century UNESCO-listed Cathedral, and a good base for visiting Krka National Park. Here, the river Krka has sculpted a picturesque canyon, famed for its spectacular Skradinski buk (Skradin Waterfalls) and the islet of Visovac, home to a Franciscan Monastery, which can be visited by boat.
CENTRAL DALMATIA: Croatia’s second largest city, Split (see Main Cities section) is also the economic and cultural capital of Central Dalmatia. Nearby, the tiny medieval city of Trogir, founded by the Greeks in the third century BC, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site noted for its beautiful Venetian Gothic stone buildings. Regarding sea and sunshine, the resorts of the Makarska Riviera, centred around the pretty town of Makarska, boast long stretches of pebble beaches and are able to accommodate large numbers of holidaymakers. However, the highlight of Central Dalmatia has to be its islands, which are less exploited than those in the north of the country. Taking Split as a base, the closest island, Brac, is best known for its magnificent beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape), close to the well-equipped but unspoilt resort of Bol. Hvar, possibly Dalmatia’s most beautiful island, is renowned for its rugged coastline, excellent wines and lavender fields. The largest settlement, Hvar Town, is built around a picturesque harbour presided over by a hilltop fortress. Chic cafes and restaurants focus on the main square, lined with elegant 15th-century ‘palaces’ and the much photographed Renaissance Cathedral. Hvar Town claims to have more hours of sunshine than any other resort on the Adriatic, and hotels offer free accommodation in the unlikely event of a snowfall. Slightly less sophisticated, but equally well equipped with hotels and bathing areas, is the friendly town of Jelsa. Vis, Croatia’s most remote inhabited island, is wild and unspoilt. Thanks to its former status as a Yugoslav military base it was closed to foreigners until 1989 and therefore has very limited tourist facilities.
SOUTHERN DALMATIA: The chief centre of the southernmost region of Croatia is Dubrovnik (see Main Cities section). Nearby, a group of tiny traffic-free islands known as the Elaphites offer secluded beaches and basic tourist amenities. Further up the coast, the island of Korcula is reigned over by the beautifully preserved Korcula Town, a marvel of medieval urban planning which has charmed foreign visitors since the first tourists arrived in the 1920s. During summer, regular performances of the colourful Moreška sword dance are staged here. Nearby, the village of Lumbarda is home to one of Croatia’s few sand beaches. On the island of Mljet, the green and unspoilt Mljet National Park boasts dense indigenous forests and two interconnected saltwater lakes – Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero. In the centre of the larger lake sits the exquisite St Mary’s Island, crowned by a Benedictine Monastery. A series of paths, perfect for mountain biking or hiking, runs round the lakes and through the woods. Lastovo, like Vis (see Central Dalmatia section), is a remote island and former home to a Yugoslav military base, hence the lack of tourist facilities. Back on the mainland, south of Dubrovnik, Cavtat is a pretty holiday resort with numerous hotels and pebble beaches. South from here lies the border with Montenegro.
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