Hungary Overview Country Overview Hungary is situated in Central Europe, sharing borders with the Slovak Republic, Ukraine, Romania, Croatia, Serbia, Austria and Slovenia. There are several ranges of hills, chiefly in the north and west. The capital city of Budapest, situated on one of the most beautiful areas of the Danube, is made up of two parts – Buda and Pest. The former is the older, more graceful part, with cobbled streets and medieval buildings; the latter is the commercial centre. The capital is a lively city that has long been a haven for writers, artists and musicians. The Historical Museum of Budapest contains archaeological remains of the old city, and furnishings, glass and ceramics from the 15th century. On the Pest side is the Parliament and the Hungarian National Museum, containing remarkable treasures including the oldest skull yet found in Europe. Lake Balaton in the west is a popular holiday region, not least because of its sandy beaches and shallow waters. Local dishes include halászlé (fish soup) with pasta and goulash (gulyás) soup. Budapest has many nightclubs, bars and discos. During the summer months the popular Lake Balaton resort has a lively nightlife. General Information Area: 93,030 sq km (35,919 sq miles). Population: 10,174,000 (2002). Population Density: 109.4 per sq km. Capital: Budapest. Population: 1,815,000 (2001). GEOGRAPHY: Hungary is situated in Central Europe, sharing borders to the north with the Slovak Republic, to the northeast with Ukraine, to the east with Romania, to the south with Croatia and Serbia and to the west with Austria and Slovenia. There are several ranges of hills, chiefly in the north and west. The Great Plain (Nagyalföld) stretches east from the Danube to the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains in the CIS, to the mountains of Transylvania in Romania, and south to the Fruska Gora range in Croatia. Lake Balaton is the largest unbroken stretch of inland water in Central Europe. Government: Republic. Head of State: President Ferenc Mádl since 2000. Head of Government: Prime Minister Péter Medgyessy since 2002. Language: Hungarian (Magyar) is the official language. German and English are widely spoken. Some French is also spoken, mainly in western Hungary. Religion: Sixty-five per cent Roman Catholic, 20 per cent Calvinist. Eastern Orthodox and Jewish minorities. There is no official national religion. Time: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz. European-style two-pin plugs are used. Communications:   Telephone IDD available. Country code: 36. Outgoing international code: 00. Public telephones are operated by Ft5, Ft10, Ft20, Ft50 and Ft100 coins or by telephone cards. Mobile telephone GSM dual band 900/1800, coverage throughout the country. Network operators include Pannon GSM Telecoms, Westel Mobile Telecommunications Company and Vodafone. Fax/Telegram Services are available at main post offices all over the country and at the Telecommunications Information and Service Office, Petõfi Sándor u., Budapest. Internet ISPs include Matav (website: www.matav.hu). There are Internet cafes in larger towns. Post Airmail takes three days to one week to reach other European destinations. In addition to the main post office, the offices at West and East railway stations in Budapest are open daily 0700-2100. Stamps are available from tobacconists as well as post offices. Post office hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat 0700-1400. Press National dailies include Népszabadság, Magyar Hirlap and Népszava. English-language newspapers include the Budapest Business Journal, Budapest Week, Courier Diplomatique, The Budapest Sun, The Hungarian Economy, The Hungarian Observer and The Hungarian Quarterly. BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice): MHz 17.64 12.10 9.410 6.195 Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov): MHz 15.21 11.82 9.760 1.197 Passport/Visa   Passport Required? Visa Required? Return Ticket Required? British Yes No/1 No Australian Yes Yes Yes Canadian Yes No/2 No USA Yes No/2 No OtherEU 1 No/2 No Japanese Yes No/2 No PASSPORTS: Passport valid for at least six months required by all, except 1. nationals of Austria, Belgium, Croatia, France, Germany, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Slovenia, Spain and Switzerland holding a national identity card. VISAS: Required by all except the following: (a) 1. nationals of the UK for stays of up to six months; (b) 2. nationals of EU countries, Canada, Japan and USA for a stay of up to 90 days; (c) nationals of Argentina, Brazil, Bulgaria, Chile, Costa Rica, Croatia, Czech Republic, Ecuador, Hong Kong (SAR), Iceland, Israel, Korea (Rep), Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Macau (SAR), Malaysia, Mexico, Monaco, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, Slovak Republic, Slovenia, Switzerland, Uruguay and Venezuela (tourist visits only) for a stay of up to 90 days; (d) nationals of Cyprus, Estonia, Latvia, Malta, Nicaragua, Romania, San Marino, Singapore, Ukraine and Yugoslavia (Serbia & Montenegro) for stays of up to 30 days; (e) persons continuing their journey to a third country within 24 hours, provided not leaving the airport and holding valid onward tickets and documentation. However, nationals of the following countries must obtain a transit visa, unless destined for, or holding a valid permit of residence issued by, an EU state, Iceland, Norway, Switzerland, Canada or the USA: Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Cameroon, Congo (Rep), Congo (Dem Rep), Eritrea, Ethiopia, Ghana, Guinea, Iran, Iraq, Lebanon, Liberia, Nigeria, Pakistan, Philippines, Rwanda, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Somalia, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Syria, Taiwan and holders of Palestinian documents. Note: The length of stay for which nationals of the exempted countries are allowed to stay is subject to frequent change. Contact the embassy for more information. Types of visa and cost: Fees in brackets refer to non-residents of the UK: Single-entry: £28 (£45). Double-entry: £52 (£69). Multiple-entry: £124 (£138). Transit: £26 (£35). Double-transit: £45 (£62). Multiple-transit: £104 (£124). Airport transit: £14 (£17). Double airport transit: £21 (£24). Note: (a) Visas issued on a special sheet cost an additional £17. (b) Nationals eligible for short procedure may ask for an immediate visa which can be issued in one hour for an extra fee of £10. Validity: Entry visa (Tourist and Business): Valid for 30-, or 90-day stay within six months of the date of issue. Transit visa: Valid for 48-hour stay within six months from date of issue. Multiple-entry visa: Valid for multiple 30-day stays in Hungary within one year from the date of issue. Validity subject to frequent change according to nationality. Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy; see Contact Addresses section). Visas are not issued at road border points or at Budapest Airport. Application requirements: (a) Passport valid for at least six months. (b) Three recent, identical passport-size photos, or five for double-entry or transit visas. (c) Completed application forms. (d) Fee (non reimbursable); payable in cash (personal applications) or postal order only. (e) Return ticket or ticket reservation. (f) Stamped self-addressed, registered or recorded envelope with £3 handling charge for postal applications (do not send payment by post in cash). (g) Bank statement proving adequate financial situation. (h) Confirmation of accommodation in Hungary, or letter of invitation from friends or relatives living in Hungary (endorsed by the Hungarian police). (i) For Business visas, written invitation from host organisation or company (endorsed by the Hungarian police). (j) For Transit visas, valid visa for country of destination. Working days required: Visa applications can take between 48 hours up to six weeks. Nationals of Australia and some other countries (mainly in South and Central America) may receive their visas in a short procedure or even on the same day. Note: Within 48 hours of arrival, visitors who will be staying for more than 30 days must register with the police (the hotel will handle this); if staying in a private residence with friends, there is no requirement to register. Money Currency: Hungarian Forint (Ft) = 100 fillér. Notes are in denominations of Ft20,000, Ft10,000, 5000, 2000, 1000, 500 and 200. Coins are in denominations of Ft100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. A large number of commemorative coins in circulation are legal tender. Currency exchange: Currency can be exchanged at hotels, banks, bureaux de change, airports, railway stations, travel agencies and some restaurants. Automatic exchange machines are available in Budapest and other main tourist centres. Credit and debit cards can be used to withdraw money from ATMs. Visitors should retain all exchange receipts, as it is illegal to change money on the black market. Credit & debit cards: It is possible to withdraw cash by credit card at more than 3200 post offices. MasterCard, American Express, Diners Club, Cirrus and Visa are accepted. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available. Travellers cheques: Widely accepted in stores and banks. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in US Dollars or Pounds Sterling. Currency restrictions: The import of local currency is limited to Ft200,000, provided the amount is declared on arrival. The export of local currency is limited to Ft200,000 and must be declared. The import of foreign currency is unlimited, provided amounts greater than Ft50,000 are declared. The export of foreign currency is limited to the amount declared on import. There is no compulsory money exchange. Hungarian currency can be re-exchanged for up to 50 per cent of the officially exchanged sum (but not more than US$450) at any authorised office or branch of the National Savings Bank. Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Forint against Sterling and the US Dollar: Date May ’02 Aug ’02 Nov ’02 Feb ’03 £1.00= 383.57 383.59 375.21 362.98 $1.00= 263.21 252.21 237.27 227.97 Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1600. Duty Free The following may be imported into Hungary by persons over 16 years of age without incurring customs duty: 250 cigarettes or 100 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 1l of spirits, 1l of wine and 5l of beer; gifts to the value of Ft29,500. Up to 1kg each of coffee, tea, cocoa and other spices (excluding paprika and paprika mixtures). Public Holidays Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Mar 15 Anniversary of 1848 uprising against Austrian rule. Apr 21 Easter Monday. May 1 Labour Day. Jun 9 Whit Monday. Aug 15 Assumption. Aug 20 National Day (Feast of St Stephen). Oct 23 Republic Day (Anniversary of 1956). Nov 1 All Saints’ Day. Dec 25-26 Christmas. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Mar 15 Anniversary of 1848 uprising against Austrian rule. Apr 12 Easter Monday. May 1 Labour Day. May 31 Whit Monday. Aug 15 Assumption. Aug 20 National Day (Feast of St Stephen). Oct 23 Republic Day (Anniversary of 1956). Nov 1 All Saints’ Day. Dec 25-26 Christmas. Health   Special Precautions Certificate Required Yellow Fever No No Cholera No No Typhoid and Polio No N/A Malaria No N/A Food & drink: Mains water is normally chlorinated, and whilst relatively safe may cause mild abdominal upsets. Bottled water is available and is advised for the first few weeks of the stay. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Local meat, poultry, seafood, fruit and vegetables are generally considered safe to eat. Other risks: Hepatitis A occurs. Tick-borne encephalitis occurs in forested areas. Vaccination is advisable. Rabies, although on the decrease, is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix. Health care: There is a reciprocal health agreement with the UK. On presentation of a UK passport, treatment is free at hospitals, ‘poly-clinics’ and doctor’s surgeries. For emergencies, call 104. Charges will be made for dental and ophthalmic treatment and for prescribed medicines. For emergency dental services, call 330 189. Chemists are open from 0800-1800. There are chemists with a 24-hour emergency service open in every district. Travel - International AIR: The national airline is Malév (MA), operating flights to more than 40 cities. For further information, contact Malév Hungarian Airline, 22-25A Sackville Street, London W1S 3DR, UK (tel: (020) 7439 0577; fax: (020) 7734 8116). Other airlines serving Budapest include Aeroflot, Air France, British Airways, KLM and Lufthansa. Approximate flight times: From London to Budapest is 2 hours 20 minutes. International airports: Budapest Ferihegy (BUD), 16km (10 miles) from the city (travel time – 30 minutes). There are now two passenger terminals; A is used exclusively by Malév and B by all other airlines. Facilities include a duty-free shop, florist, newsagent, restaurants and bar, bureaux de change (0600-2300), banks (0800-1600), tourist information centre (0700-2300), gift shop and post office (0830-1600). Regular coach and bus services are available to the city, costing around Ft800 for the centrum bus and approximately Ft1800 or Ft3300 return for the airport minibus, which runs to and from any address in the city. The 93 bus runs an express service between the underground terminus at Kobánya-Kispest and the Ferihegy terminals, however you need a pre-purchased or season ticket. Taxis are available at all times. The major car hire companies are represented. Departure tax: None. RIVER: From April to October there is a daily hydrofoil service run by MAHART between Vienna, Bratislava and Budapest. The journey costs approximately US$69 and takes six hours. Reservations must be made in advance. Twenty kilograms of luggage may be carried free of charge. Passengers arriving by boat are advised to reserve a taxi through the shipping line, as none are readily available on the dock. For further details contact MAHART at Belgrád rakpart, 1056 Budapest (tel: (1) 318 1704 or 484 4013; fax: (1) 318 7740; e-mail: tours@maharttours.com; website: www.mahartpassnave.hu). RAIL: Direct rail links connect Hungary to 16 European cities and there are 47 international trains daily to Budapest. Inter-Rail, Eurotrain and RES concessions are valid on the Hungarian State Railways (MÁV). Between Dresden and Budapest there is a car transport system. The Wiener Waltzer from Basel travels via Zurich, Salzburg and Vienna to Budapest. First- and second-class day carriages run from Basel through to Budapest and both sleeping cars and couchettes (the latter second-class only) as far as Vienna. There is a minibar service in Switzerland and Austria, and a dining car in Hungary. The most convenient route from London is via Dover/Ostend, joining the Ostend/Vienna Express (with sleeping cars and couchettes to Vienna). Luggage allowances: Thirty-five kilograms for adults, 15kg for children. Note: Travellers leaving Hungary by train must pay their fare in convertible currency. Most generally recognised international concessionary tickets are accepted in Hungary. For further details contact MÁV at Budapest VI, Andrássy út 35 (tel: (1) 461 5500 (international timetables) or (1) 461 5400 (internal timetables); tel/fax: (1) 322 8405; website: www.mav.hu or www.elvira.hu). Seat reservations are strongly advised for all services. ROAD: Route via The Netherlands, Belgium and Austria and from Vienna via the E5 Transcontinental Highway which passes near Bratislava (Slovak Republic). Bus connections are available from most major European cities, check for further details with Volanbusz (tel: (1) 485 2100). Eurolines, departing from Victoria Coach Station in London, serves destinations in Hungary. For further information, contact Eurolines (4 Cardiff Road, Luton, Bedfordshire, L41 1PP; tel: (08705) 143 219; fax: (01582) 400 694; website: www.eurolines.com or www.gobycoach.com). The Channel Tunnel: Eurotunnel operates trains 24 hours per day through the Channel Tunnel between Folkestone in Kent (with direct access from the M20) and Calais in France. All vehicles from motorcycles to campers can be accommodated. Eurotunnel operates three to four passenger trains per hour at peak times. The journey takes approximately 35 minutes. For further information contact Eurotunnel Reservations (tel: (08705) 353 535; e-mail: callcentre@eurotunnel.com; website: www.eurotunnel.co.uk). Travel - Internal AIR: There are no scheduled internal air services in Hungary. RIVER/LAKE: There are regular services on the Danube and Lake Balaton from spring to late autumn. MAHART and the Budapest Travel Company (BKV) (website: www.bkv.hu) also operate ferries in the city centre, the Roman Embankment (Római Part) and at some crossing points. Due to the opening of the new bridge between Esztergom and Párkány (Sturovo) in 2001, the former ferry service on the Danube is no longer available. On Lake Balaton, a ferry operates during the summer at 40-minute intervals daily between Tihanyrév and Szántódrév; and between Révfülöp and Balatonboglér 0620-0000; at other times of the year the service runs 0630-1930. Contact MAHART for further details (see Travel – International for contact details). RAIL: Services are operated by MÁV. All main cities are linked by efficient services but facilities are often inadequate. Supplements are payable on IC and express trains. Reservations are compulsory for IC trains and recommended for express trains, particularly in summer. Tickets can be bought 60 days in advance on domestic railway lines, as can seat reservations. The most popular tourist rail routes are Budapest–Kecskemet–Szeged–Budapest and Budapest–Siofok–Lake Balaton. Rail-bus services are available between the main railway stations within Budapest at fixed rates (tel: (1) 353 2722; fax: (1) 353 2187; website: www.elvira.hu or www.mav.hu). There are also narrow-gauge railways in operation in many parts of the country. Cheap fares: Concessions are available for groups (minimum of ten persons), children, families and pensioners. Children aged 6-12 pay 32.5 per cent. Children under six travel free. Balaton and Tourist Season Tickets (seven to ten days) are also available. Contact MÁV for details (see Travel – International for contact details). The Hungarian Flexipass, sold by travel agents worldwide and by Rail Europe, offers unlimited first-class train travel for five days in a 15-day period or for ten days in a 30-day period. The Hungarian Tourist Card offers discounts on rail, bus, taxi and ship services, as well as accommodation, restaurants and museums. The Hungarian National Tourist Office can provide further information (see Contact Addresses section). ROAD: Traffic drives on the right. There are eight arterial roads in the country: all but the M8 start from central Budapest. Tolls are payable on some roads and all motorways. Season tickets can be purchased. From Budapest the two main highways are the M1 from Györ to Vienna and the M7 along Lake Balaton. The M3 connects Budapest with eastern Hungary. Generally the road system is good. Bus: Budapest is linked with major provincial towns. Tickets are available from Volán long-distance bus terminal, Budapest, and at Volán offices throughout the country. A bus season ticket is also available. Car hire: Available at Ferihegy Airport or at Volán and Budapest tourist offices as well as at major hotels. Regulations: Speed limits are 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas, 90kph (50mph) on main roads, 110kph (62mph) on highways and 130kph (75mph) on motorways. Seat belts are compulsory. Petrol stations are frequent and there are no special tourist petrol coupons. There is a total alcohol ban when driving; severe fines are imposed for infringements. It is obligatory to keep headlights dipped at all times when on the open road. Mobile phones are allowed only with headsets. Child seats are compulsory. Breakdowns: The Hungarian Automobile Club operates a breakdown service on main roads at weekends and a 24-hour service on motorways. For further details contact the Hungarian Automobile Club, Rómer Flóris utca 4/A, H-1024 Budapest (tel: (1) 345 1800 or 345 1755 (24-hour emergency helpline); fax: (1) 345 1801; e-mail: info@autoklub.hu; website: www.autoklub.hu). Documentation: Pink format EU licence accepted but International Driving Permit required if green licence held. URBAN: There is good public transport in all the main towns. Budapest has bus, trolleybus, tramway, suburban railway (HEV), a three-line metro and boat services. The metro has ticket barriers at all stations. The bus–trolleybus–tramway system has pre-purchase flat fares with ticket puncher on board. Day passes are available for all the transport modes in the city. Trams and buses generally run from about 0430-2300. Some night services also operate. The metro runs from 0430-2310 and stations can be identified by a large ‘M’. There is also a cogwheel railway (Városmajor–Széchenyi Hill), a Childrens’ Railway (Hüvösvölgy–Széchenyi Hill), a chairlift and a funicular. There are tramways in some of the other towns, or else good bus services. Day passes and season tickets are available in Budapest. TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times (in hours and minutes) from Budapest to other major cities/towns in Hungary. Road Rail Sopron 3.00 2.25 Miskolc 2.30 1.55 Pécs 3.00 2.45 Szeged 2.30 2.20 Szentendre 0.30 0.50 Lake Balaton 2.00 2.30 Accommodation Note: The Hungarian Tourist Card provides discounts on accommodation including hotels, guest-houses and youth hostels (the Hungarian National Tourist Office can provide further information). HOTELS: In all classes of hotel, visitors from the West can expect to be made very welcome and service will usually be friendly and smooth. In addition to hotels, there are Tourist Hostels, which provide simple accommodation usually in rooms with four or more beds. For information contact the Hungarian Hotel Association, Secretariat, Novotel Budapest Convention Centre, Jagello-u 1-3, 1123 Budapest (tel: (1) 466 9462 or 322 3854; fax: (1) 322 3854; e-mail: hah@axelero.hu; website: www.miwo.hu/hah). Grading: Hungarian hotels are classified by use of a star rating system, 5- and 4-star hotels are luxury class and are generally extremely comfortable; 3-star hotels are comfortable but less luxurious and offer good value for money; and 2- and 1-star hotels are generally adequate and clean. GUEST-HOUSES: Available almost everywhere. Paying-guest accommodation is an inexpensive and excellent way of getting to know the people. Renting often includes bathroom but not breakfast. Such accommodation should be reserved well in advance. Further information can be obtained from the Hungarian National Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section). SELF-CATERING: Bungalows with two rooms, fully equipped, can be rented at a large number of resorts. Full details and rates can be obtained from the Hungarian National Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section). CAMPING/CARAVANNING: Camping is forbidden except in specially designated areas. Booking is through the Hungarian Camping And Caravanning Club, Mária u., 34. II floor, 4apt, H-1085 Budapest (tel: (1) 267 5255 or 267 5256; fax: (1) 267 5254), Further information can also be obtained from the Hungarian National Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section) and there is an online booking facility (website: www.miwo.hu). Most of the sites cater only for campers bringing in their own equipment. Caravans are permitted in all sites that have power points; a parking charge is made. Young people between six and 16 years of age pay half price and there is no charge for children under the age of six. Grading: There are four categories of site, designated I, II, III and IV, according to the amenities provided, and most are open from May to September. YOUTH HOSTELS: There are ten in Budapest and 14 in other towns. Hostels are open all day and beds cost around US$6. For further information, contact Express Travel Bureau, Semmelweis U. 4, 1052 Budapest (tel: (1) 317 8600; fax: (1) 317 6823); or Hungarian Youth Hostel Association (MISZSZ), 1077 Almassy ter 6, Budapest (tel/fax: (1) 343 5167; e-mail: info@youthhostels.hu; website: www.youthhostels.hu). Introduction Hungary does not regard itself as a Balkan or a Slavic country, and the Magyars who settled there from central Asia have always identified with western values. The country has survived the devastations of the Tartars, Turks, Hapsburgs and Russians, retaining its unique language and culture. In Hungary admitting that one is a tourist is positive; people are individualistic, against homogenized Euroculture and will want to meet, talk and help visitors to enjoy their country. For the purpose of this guide the country has been divided into six regions: Budapest, The Danube, The West & Lake Balaton, The Great Plain Area, Southern Hungary and The Northern Highlands. Budapest The capital city was originally two cities on each side of one of the most beautiful stretches of the Danube river – Buda, the older, more graceful part, with cobbled streets and medieval buildings, and Pest, the commercial centre. The ‘Pearl of the Danube’ is a lively city which has long been a haven for writers, artists and musicians. BUDA: In Buda, Gellért Hill gives a wonderful view of the city, river and mountains. On the hill is the Citadella, a fort built after the unsuccessful 1848 uprising, and a number of thermal baths including the great Gellért Baths adjoining the hotel of that name. The Royal Palace, fully reconstructed after being bombed during World War II, houses the National Gallery, with collections of fine Gothic sculpture and modern Hungarian art, and the Historical Museum of Budapest, containing archaeological remains of the old city as well as furnishings, glass and ceramics from the 15th century. Also on this side of the Danube is the rampart of Halászbástya (Fisherman’s Bastion), so called because it was the duty of the city’s fishermen to protect the northern side of the Palace during the Middle Ages, and the great Mátyás templon (church) with its multicoloured tiled roof. PEST: On the Pest side are the Parliament; the Hungarian National Museum, containing remarkable treasures ranging from the oldest skull found in Europe to Franz Liszt’s gold baton; the Belvárosi Templom, Hungary’s oldest church, dating from the 12th century, the Museum of Fine Arts housing European paintings and the Ethnographic Museum. Margaret Island, connected to both Buda and Pest by bridges is a park with a sports stadium, swimming pool, spas, a rose garden and fountains. Budapest has about 100 hot springs. The Danube The Carpathian Basin upstream from Budapest has long been a favourite summer retreat from the humid heat of the capital. Three historic towns draw most of the visitors. A few miles further up river, Szentendre is an old market town originally inhabited by Serbian refugees from the Turks. Churches had to face east regardless of their position on the streets, producing unusual layouts, and the Serbian house styles added greatly to the village’s charm. Due to trade restrictions and floods, the town was abandoned, only to be rediscovered and settled by Hungarian artists in the 1920s. The Margit Kovács Musuem has a remarkable display of the work of Hungary’s greatest ceramicist. The Béla Czóbel Museum shows paintings from the 1890s and the Károly Ferenczy Museum contains historical, archaeological and ethnographic collections as well as paintings. The Serbian Museum for Ecclesiastical History contains many fine examples of ecclesiastical art from the 14th to the 18th centuries. The Ethnographic Museum (skanzen) is a large open-air addition from the 1960s, still being added to, of reconstructed folk villages from all over the country. VISEGRAD: A few miles further upriver, Visegrád was once a royal stronghold, but is now a rather sleepy tourist resort with spectacular views over the Danube. The 15th-century summer palace has been excavated and restored, and the Mátyás Museum in the Salamon Tower displays many archaeological discoveries. ESZTERGOM: Esztergom, originally a Roman outpost, later became the country’s capital from the 11th to the 14th centuries and remains at the heart of the country’s Catholicism. Hungary’s largest Basilica, the Palace ruins, the Museum of the Stronghold of Esztergom and the Christian Museum of Esztergom, containing some of Hungary’s finest art collections, are all important attractions. The West & Lake Balaton Sopron, close to the Austrian frontier, is built on old Roman foundations, and reminders of the region’s history are still very much in evidence in the town’s 240 listed buildings. Among the sights here are the Firewatch Tower, Storno House showing Roman, Celtic and Avar relics as well as mementoes of Franz Liszt, the Gothic Goat Church and the gargoyled Church of St Michael. ELSEWHERE: Twenty-seven kilometres (17 miles) away is the Baroque Esterházy Palace at Fertöd, designed to rival Versailles; Josef Haydn was music master here at the end of the 18th century. Nearby is the spa town of Balf. The walled town of Köszeg and the riverside town of Györ, on the main Budapest–Vienna highway, Szombathely (which claims to be the oldest town in Hungary and has much excellent Romanesque stonework) and Zalaegerszeg are also attractive towns to visit. Located between Budapest and Lake Balaton, Székesfehérvár boasts a Baroque Town Hall, as well as the Zichy Palace and the Garden of Ruins – an open-air museum. Fertõ-Hanság National Park, the main areas of which are Lake Fertõ, the westernmost steppe lake in Eurasia, and the Hanság, an area of wetlands, adjoins the Austrian National Park Neusiedlersee-Seewinkel. Birdwatching, cycling and hiking are popular, and there is a permanent wildlife and ethnographic museum at Öntésmajor. LAKE BALATON: Lake Balaton is a popular holiday region because of its sandy beaches (strands) and shallow waters. The surrounding countryside consists mainly of fertile plains dotted with old villages. Siófok, on the south shore of the lake, has some of the sandiest beaches and best facilities for tourists. Keszthely is a pleasant old town – the Balaton’s best – including the Festetics Palace with its Helicon Library, and the Balaton Museum. Hévíz, Europe’s largest thermal lake, is a short bus ride away. Balatonfüred is a well-known health resort with 11 medicinal springs. Tihany’s Benedictine Abbey was founded in 1055; Belsô-tó Lake and the Aranyház geyser cones are nearby. Veszprém, 10km (6 miles) north of Lake Balaton, is a pretty town with cobbled streets, built on five hills. It is the home of the Var Museum, an Episcopal Palace and the 15th-century Gizella Chapel. The Great Plain Area This region covers more than half the country and contains thousands of acres of vineyards, orchards and farmland. Kecskemét, 85km (53 miles) southeast of the capital, is the home town of the composer Zoltán Kodály. Although an industrial town in many respects, there is still an artists’ colony and a centre for folk music there. It also has some fine examples of peasant architecture and of crafts in the Native Artists and Katona Jozsef Museum. Outside the town the Kiskunság National Park preserves parts of the Danube Tisza Floodplain of Central Hungary in seven disconnected areas including swamps, alkali plateaus and lakes. The famous Bugac Puszta stretches out here as well. Szeged is the economic and cultural centre of this region, housing Hungary’s finest Greek Orthodox (Serbian) church. Baja is a small, picturesque town on the banks of both the Danube and Sugovica rivers with many small islands, old churches and an artists’ colony. Further east is the Hortobágy National Park, the ‘Hungarian Puszta’, the alkali plains which begin the Asian steppes. Southern Hungary Pécs, one of Transdanubia’s largest towns, was colonised by the Romans, has the fifth oldest university in Europe (1367) and the finest Hungarian examples of Ottoman architecture from Turkish occupancy (1543-1686). Important tourist sites include the Cathedral, the Mosque of Gazi Kasim Pasha, and the Archaeological Museum. The Danube-Drava National Park encompases the area between these two rivers and includes Mohács on the Danube, with the battlefield – now a memorial park – where, in 1586, the Turks gained control of the country, and Kalocsa, noted for its folk museums. South of the town is the attractive Forest of Gemenc which can be explored by boat or narrow-gauge train. The Northern Highlands Miskolc, Hungary’s second-largest city, is situated near the Slovak border. Primarily industrial, the city has nevertheless several points of interest, including medieval architecture and the warren of man-made caves in the Avas Hills near the city centre. Nearby are the beautiful forested Bükk National Park, part of the Northern Hill Range, which is also an area of karst topography including the country’s deepest caves at Lillafüred; many traces of Neanderthal man have been found here. North of Bükk, the Aggtelek National Park is part of the Gömör Torna Karst area of cave systems which extends into Slovakia. Caving, fishing and riding are popular, and there are many cultural monuments, masterpieces of folk architecture, ruins recalling the atmosphere of the Middle Ages, old churches, graveyards and locally surviving farming techniques. Eger, one of the country’s oldest and most colourful cities, has nearly 200 historical monuments including its 14-sided Minaret; just west of the town are the vineyards of the Szépasszony Valley where one can sample the famous Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) wine. Due east is Tokaj, the equivalent of Champagne as a wine-producing area. Halfway between Tokaj and the Slovak border is the spectacular Sárospatak Castle, one of Hungary’s greatest historical monuments. Sport & Activities Wildlife: Hungary has five national parks and nearly 1000 protected areas. Hikers can head for the mountains in the north and northwest of the country. The Börzsöny, Mátra and Pilis ranges not far to the north of Budapest are popular, with the Mátra mountains containing Hungary’s highest peak, Kékesetö (1015m/3329ft). Less strenuous walking is possible around Lake Balaton and in the hills in the south of the country. Hungary’s many wetlands, rivers and lakes attract large numbers of water birds, and birdwatching is popular. A particularly good area for this is Hortobágy National Park in the Great Plain in the east of the country, where different types of storks, warblers, eagles and herons can be seen. A guide is required for visits to some parts of the park, and motor vehicles are not permitted. Other wildlife to be found in the country includes rare wild cats and lake bats, while species such as boar, otter and deer are common. Fishing: The River Tisza, by the Kisköre reservoir, is regarded by many as Europe’s second best angling area (after the Danube Delta). Accommodation for anglers is readily available, and guides can be hired if required. Species such as carp, bream, pike, trout and tench are abundant. There are rules and regulations governing fishing seasons and licences; for further information, contact the Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section). Spa stays: Budapest alone has over 100 thermal springs and around 50 swimming pools and medicinal baths. The culture of bathing has been established since Roman times, and today a wide variety of therapeutic treatments, both ancient and modern, is on offer. Some of Hungary’s bath houses are also of great architectural interest: the Király Medicinal Baths, for example, date from the Middle Ages, while the Rudas Medicinal Baths feature a fine dome dating from the 16th century. Outside Budapest, notable spa resorts include Debrecen in the far east; Hévíz, near Lake Balaton; Harkány in the south; and Eger, northwest of Budapest. Treatment is cheaper than in western Europe or North America, and many foreign insurers will pay part of the cost. Other: With its long tradition of equestrianism, horseriding is particularly good in Hungary. Long-distance riding in areas such as the Great Plain with its wide open spaces is popular, and riders are well catered for. Hungary is the only European country, apart from Ireland, which places no restrictions on riders. There are many riding schools all over the country which can organise all types of excursions. The Great Plain contains several famous stud farms, and horse shows take place regularly. Carriage driving is also popular, and tourists can arrange to have tuition in this art through riding schools. Cycling is a good way to see the country. Local tourist offices can assist in the organisation of cycling tours by providing bicycles, transporting luggage and arranging picnics and sightseeing. Although bicycles can be hired in many places, those planning to do longer tours should bring their own. Social Profile Food & Drink: A good range of restaurants is available. Table service is common, although there are many inexpensive self-service restaurants. A typical menu offers two or three courses at inexpensive rates. Fine dairy and pastry shops (cukrászda) offer light meals. Specialities include halászlé (fish soups) with pasta and Goulash gulyás soup. Western goulash is called pörkölt or tokány. Stuffed vegetables, sweet cakes, gundel palacsinta (pancake) and pastries are also popular. Eszpresszó coffee bars and Drink bars offer refreshments. Gerbeaud’s is probably Budapest’s most famous coffee-house. Tokaji (strong dessert wine) or Bull’s Blood (strong red wine) are recommended. Pálinka or barack (apricot brandy) is a typical liqueur. Imported beers and soft drinks are also available. There are no licensing hours, but the legal age for drinking in a bar is 18 years. Minors are allowed to go into bars but will not be served alcohol. Nightlife: Budapest has many nightclubs, bars and discos. There are two casinos in Budapest: one next to the Sofitel Hotel (formerly Hyatt Regency), and one near Buda castle. Cinemas in major towns show many English-language films. During the summer months the popular Lake Balaton resort has a lively nightlife. Western Hungary in particular has a lot of very good wine cellars. Visitors would do well to search out traditional folk music and dancing, as the gypsy music which is so common in restaurants is not considered the ‘true’ folk tradition of the country. The magnificent Budapest Opera House stages regular performances, and seats are (by Western standards) exceedingly cheap. Shopping: Special purchases include embroideries, Herend and Zsolnay porcelain and national dolls. Shopping hours: Department stores are open from Mon-Wed and Fri 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2000, Sat 0900-1300. Food shops are open from Mon-Fri 0700-1900, Sat 0700-1400. Special Events: For a detailed list of festivals and special events celebrated, contact the Hungarian National Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section) or see the website (www.fesztivalvaros.hu/english.html). The following is a selection of events held in Hungary in 2003: Mar 14-31 Budapest Spring Festival. Apr 20-21 Hollókó Easter Festival. May 1-31 Balaton Festival, Keszthely. Jul 30-Aug 6 Szijet Festival. Aug 4-19 Budapest Summer Opera and Ballet Festival. Aug 31-Sep 7 Jewish Summer Festival, Budapest. Sep 6-16 Budapest International Wine and Champagne Festival. Sep 26-28 European Wine Song Festival. Oct 17-Nov 2 Budapest Autumn Festival. Social Conventions: Most Hungarians enjoy modern music and dance, although older people still preserve their traditions and culture, particularly in small villages. Handshaking is customary. Both Christian name and surname should be used. Normal courtesies should be observed. At a meal, toasts are usually made and should be returned. A useful word is egészségünkre (pronounced Ay-gash-ay-gun-gre), meaning ‘your health’. Few people speak English outside hotels, big restaurants and tourist offices. A knowledge of German is very useful. Gifts are acceptable for hosts as a token of thanks, particularly when invited for a meal. Casual wear is acceptable in most places, with the exception of expensive restaurants and bars. Formal attire should be worn for important social functions, but it is not common practice to specify dress on invitations. Smoking is prohibited on public transport in towns and public buildings. Travellers may smoke on long-distance trains. Photography: Military installations should not be photographed; other restrictions will be signposted. Tipping: Ten to 15 per cent is expected for nearly all services in restaurants, bars, clubs, taxis and so on. Business Profile Economy: Hungary is poor in natural resources other than bauxite, natural gas and some oil. For this reason, it relies especially heavily on foreign trade, which accounts for half of its GDP. The country has a fairly well-developed industrial economy concentrated in chemicals, plastics, pharmaceuticals, fertilisers, computers and telecommunications, mining, construction and aluminium (from bauxite deposits). It has also traditionally been an exporter of agricultural produce, particularly fruit and vegetables, maize and wheat, sugar beet, potatoes and livestock. Before the political upheaval in Eastern Europe during 1989, Hungary had gone the furthest of all the socialist-bloc countries towards decentralising and deregulating the economy. In the 1990s, it eschewed the Polish-style ‘big bang’ road to capitalism and opted for a more gradual transition. Price controls were removed, and a programme of privatisation was implemented, starting with the retail and property sectors. By 1995, small business privatisation was more or less complete, while sales of the larger state-owned concerns proceeded apace. Current estimates put 85 per cent of the economy under private ownership. Hungary’s economic performance is currently steady: growth is over three pre cent, and inflation six per cent. Foreign investment has picked up, largely as a result of the liberalisation of trade through agreements with the EU, EFTA and the Visegrad mechanism, although in recent years there has been a mild backlash against the extent to which foreign companies have penetrated the Hungarian economy. EU membership is the highest priority for the Hungarian government and, since signing an Association Agreement in 1998, the country has secured a place in the ‘first wave’ of potential new members. It may expect to become a full member in 2004. The country’s principal trading partners are Germany, Austria, Italy, Russia and the Czech Republic. Outside Europe, there are important links with the USA, Japan and Brazil. Business: Businesspeople are expected to dress smartly. Local businesspeople are generally friendly and hospitable and it is usual for visitors to be invited to lunch or dinner in a restaurant. Business cards are widely distributed and visitors are well advised to have a supply available in Hungarian. Best months for business visits are September to May. Appointments should always be made. Interpreter and translation services may be booked through travel agents. Office hours: Mon-Thurs 0800-1630, Fri 0800-1400. Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Budapest Kereskedelmi és Iparkamara (Budapest Chamber of Commerce and Industry), Krisztina Krt 99, H-1016 Budapest (tel/fax: (1) 488 2000; e-mail: bkiki@bkik.hu ; website: www.bkik.hu); or ITD Hungary, 46 Eaton Place, London SW1X 8AL, UK (tel: (020) 7235 8767; fax: (020) 7235 4319; e-mail: huntrade.london@virgin.net; website: www.itd.hu/britweb). Conferences/Conventions: The following organisation can offer advice: Hungarian Convention Bureau, Kálmán Imre u. 2, 1054 Budapest (tel: (1) 472 8840; fax: (1) 472 8841; e-mail: hcb@hungarytourism.hu; website: www.hcb.hu). Climate There are four seasons, with a very warm summer from June to August. Spring and autumn are mild, while winters are very cold. Rainfall is distributed throughout the year with snowfalls in winter. History and Government History: During the ninth century, Finno-Ugriar nomads came into Hungary via south Russia, settling down in the latter half of the tenth century. The Arpád Dynasty ruled until the end of the 13th century when Hungary was devastated by a Mongol invasion. Matthias Corvinus subsequently re-established Hungary as the leading power in central Europe, also developing Magyar arts and literature. His successor, Laszlo II, undid his work within a few years, and Hungary fell under Turkish sovereignty during the 16th century, re-establishing independence after the Thirty Years’ War. Hungary formed an alliance with Austria and was ruled by a Magyar aristocracy. It remained an essentially feudal state until 1914 (under monarchic and republican regimes), with an antiquated (by European standards) social system which was not fully dismantled until after World War II. Hungary sided with Nazi Germany during the war until 1944, when German troops occupied the country and the Hungarians sought to break the alliance. The Germans in turn were driven out by the Russians in January 1945. By 1949, Hungary had become a Soviet-style socialist state, a member of the Warsaw Pact and a People’s Republic. The ruling Hungarian Socialist Workers’ Party was riven by factional splits between pro-Soviet hardliners and the more liberally inclined group around Imre Nagy. The dispute came to a head in 1956 when hard-liners led by Janos Kádár overthrew premier Nagy with the support of Soviet army units. Despite its origins, the Hungarian regime had by the 1970s become the most liberal of all Soviet bloc systems. This was largely a result of the introduction in 1968 of the ‘New Economic Mechanism’ which allowed a significant role to be taken by private enterprise and the market in the Hungarian economy. Expressions of political opposition were not as ruthlessly suppressed as elsewhere in Eastern Europe. The socialists nonetheless maintained a firm grip on the country’s political and economic life. During the 1980s the political situation relaxed still further as Kádár’s influence over the Government was gradually reduced. He was removed from the ruling Politburo in 1988 and Hungary began the transition to a pluralistic political system. The first elections were held in the spring of 1990 and brought to power a centre-right umbrella group, the Hungarian Democratic Forum (Magyar Demokrata Forum, MDF) with Jozsef Antall as prime minister. The left – social democrats and former communists – coalesced around the Hungarian Socialist Party (Magyar Szocialista Part, MSzP). A second right-wing party, the Alliance of Young Democrats (Fiatal Demokratak Sz`vetsege, FIDESz), eclipsed the Democratic Forum during the mid-1990s, and Hungarian politics now follow the customary European model of alternating between FIDESz and the MSzP. Following the most recent poll in May 2002, the Socialists replaced the FIDESz-led coalition as the governing party. The character of the two main parties is quite different. The Socialists are essentially a party of technocrats with little ideological fervour: the new Prime Minister, Peter Medgyessy (a former finance minister and deputy premier), is not even a member of the party. By contrast, FIDESz, led by the recently deposed Victor Orban, is a populist party with a highly motivated support base. Nevertheless, there are few significant differences to the main agendas of the two parties. The overriding priority is the pursuit of full membership of the European Union, which in itself places major constraints on government spending irrespective of the party in power. Hungary achieved its other main objective – membership of NATO – in 1999. Along with Poland and the Czech Republic, Hungary was admitted after a two-year period of negotiation and a national referendum which approved future membership by a six-to-one margin. Hungary has also joined with the Czech Republic, Poland and Slovakia in the Visegrad group, which was established to promote political and economic co-operation in central Europe. Abroad, Hungary has had some involvement in the Balkan conflicts of the 1990s. Its calculations must always take account of the sizeable ethnic Hungarian minorities in the Yugoslav autonomous region of Vojvodina (400,000), north-eastern Romania (1.7 million), the Slovak Republic (550,000) and Ukraine. Hungary clearly believes, however, that NATO is the best guarantor of stability in the region. Government: Legislative power is held by the 386-seat national assembly, the Orszaggyhles, which is elected for four years (176 members come from single seat constituencies, 152 by proportional representation in multi-seat constituencies, and 58 members by proportional representation on a national basis). The Council of Ministers, the highest executive organ, is elected by the assembly on the advice of the president, who is also elected by the national assembly for a four-year term, and may serve two terms. In April 1995, a 53-member National Autonomous Authority of the Romany Minority was ratified, with the power to administer funds disbursed by the central Government. Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.