Indonesia Overview ‘Fabled isles of sunshine and spices’ The myriad islands of the Indonesian archipelago are strung like beads across the equator. Clear blue seas lap pristine beaches, gentle breezes carry scents of spices and flowers, and divers are entranced by the ocean’s riches. Inland, dramatic volcanic ranges tower above a green mantle of terraced hillsides and lush rainforest. Bali offers an image of paradise: stunning scenery, gentle sarong-clad people and sunsets of legendary glory. Immerse yourself in the surfing, nightlife and beach-party atmosphere, or discover Ubud’s wealth of traditional arts. On peaceful Lombok, life moves at a slower pace, while bustling Jakarta exhibits Indonesia’s cosmopolitan, modern face. Komodo Island’s ‘living dinosaurs’ and the entrancing ‘sea gardens’ of Suwalesi invite exploration, as do Borobudur’s architectural treasures, which include 5km (3 miles) of Buddhist relief carvings. Adventure-seekers head for Kalimantan’s remote jungle interior or explore Sumatra, with its teeming wildlife and wealth of tribal groups. A rich history of kingdoms, conquests, trade and colonialism has bestowed an exhilarating mix of Muslim, Hindu, Buddhist and indigenous tribal culture on the islands, and colourful festivals and ceremonies enliven every season. Indonesia’s unity, however, remains fragile, and recent economic woes have exacerbated social and political tensions – it is however worth checking the current situation before travelling. The archipelago’s diversity and vast size can appear overwhelming but an unhurried approach will reward you with your own taste of paradise. Lucy Moss General Information Area: 1,922,570 sq km (742,308 sq miles). Population: 224,784,210 (2000). Population Density: 11.7 per sq km. Capital: Jakarta (Java). Population: 9,341,400 (1996). GEOGRAPHY: Indonesia lies between the mainland of South-East Asia and Australia in the Indian and Pacific oceans. It is the world’s largest archipelago state. Indonesia is made up of six main islands – Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi, Bali, Kalimantan (part of the island of Borneo) and Irian Jaya (the western half of New Guinea) – and 30 smaller archipelagos. In total, the Indonesian archipelago consists of more than 17,000 islands; 6000 of these are inhabited and stretch over 4828km (3000 miles), most lying in a volcanic belt with more than 300 volcanoes, the great majority of which are extinct. The landscape varies from island to island, ranging from high mountains and plateaux to coastal lowlands and alluvial belts. Government: Republic. Declared independence from the Netherlands in 1945. Head of State and Government: Megawati Sukarnoputri since 2001. Language: Bahasa Indonesia is the official national language. It is similar to Malay and written in the Roman alphabet. In addition, there are over 250 recognised languages spoken by as many distinct ethnic groups. Many local languages are further divided by special forms of address depending on social status, and all languages are spoken in a variety of local dialects. English is the most widely used foreign language for business and tourism, and many people in the more remote areas have a basic command of English. The older generation still speaks Dutch as a second language. Religion: There is a Muslim majority of approximately 88 per cent, with Christian (ten per cent), Hindu (mainly in Bali) and Buddhist minorities. Animist beliefs are held in remote areas. Time: Indonesia spans three time zones: Bangka, Billiton, Java, West and Central Kalimantan, Madura and Sumatra: GMT + 7 (West), GMT + 8 (Central), GMT + 9 (East). Bali, Flores, South and East Kalimantan, Lombok, Sulawesi, Sumba, Sumbawa and Timor: GMT + 8. Aru, Irian Jaya, Kai, Moluccas and Tanimbar: GMT + 9. Electricity: Generally 220 volts AC, 50Hz, but 110 volts AC, 50Hz, in some rural areas. Communications:   Telephone IDD is available to main cities. Country code: 62 (followed by 22 for Bandung, 21 for Jakarta, 61 for Medan and 31 for Surabaya). Outgoing international code: 00. Many hotel lobbies have public phones which take credit cards and phone cards. State-operated phone booths (WARTEL), which work on a pay-as-you-leave basis, can be found throughout the country. For emergencies, dial 110 (police) or 118 (ambulance for traffic accidents) or 119 (ambulance for general health) or 113 (fire department). Mobile telephone GSM 900 and 1800 networks. Main operators include Telkomsel (website: www.telkomsel.com), Lippo Telecom (website: www.lippotel.com) and Excelcomindo (website: www.excelcom.co.id). Coverage may be limited to main towns and cities. Fax Faxes can be sent and received from WARTEL shops. Internet ISPs include Indosat (website: www.indosat.net.id) and Indobiz (website: www.indobiz.com). There are Internet cafes in all major cities and tourist destinations. Telegram These can be sent from any telegraphic office; in Jakarta facilities are available 24 hours a day, but services outside Jakarta are less efficient. Post Airmail to Western Europe takes up to ten days. Internal mail is fast and generally reliable by the express service (Pos KILAT), but mail to the outer islands can be subject to considerable delays. Press There are several English-language newspapers in Jakarta and on the other islands, notably The Indonesia Times, Indonesian Observer, Bali Post and Jakarta Post. BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice): MHz 15.36 9.740 6.195 3.915 Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov): MHz 17.74 11.71 9.645 6.110 Passport/Visa   Passport Required? Visa Required? Return Ticket Required? British Yes 1/2 Yes Australian Yes 1/2 Yes Canadian Yes 1/2 Yes USA Yes 1/2 Yes OtherEU Yes 1/2 Yes Japanese Yes 1/2 Yes Restricted entry: (a) Nationals of Israel will be refused entry unless they have applied to the Immigration Office in Indonesia, prior to travelling, to obtain approval/special permit. (b) Nationals of China (PR) and CIS travelling to Indonesia as tourists, or for business or social purposes, need approval from the Immigration Office in Indonesia before travelling. Nationals of China (PR) should also have sponsorship in Indonesia. (c) All applications for business, tourist and social visits from nationals of Afghanistan, Algeria, Bangladesh, Cameroon, China (PR), Congo (Dem Rep), Ethiopia, Ghana, India, Iraq, Iran, Jamaica, Nigeria, Pakistan, Somalia, South Africa, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Uganda, Yemen and Zimbabwe need special approval from the Immigration Department in Indonesia. Note: East Timor is no longer a part of Indonesia. Those wishing to travel to this area should contact the nearest United Nations office in the country where they live. PASSPORTS: Passport valid for at least six months from date of entry required by all. VISAS: Required by all except the following for tourist visits only of up to 60 days (non extendable): (a) 1. nationals of countries referred to in the chart above, with the exception of Portugal (who do need visas for tourist, business and social visits); (b) nationals of Argentina, Brazil, Brunei, Chile, Egypt, Hungary, Iceland, Korea (Rep), Kuwait, Liechtenstein, Malaysia, Maldives, Malta, Mexico, Monaco, Morocco, New Zealand, Norway, Philippines, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Switzerland, Thailand, Turkey, United Arab Emirates, Venezuela and Yugoslavia (Serbia and Montenegro); (c) nationals of Taiwan with passports endorsed with code MFA/M. If passport is endorsed with code OM or X, a visa is required and entry and exit is only permitted via Denpasar Bali (Ngurah Rai), Jakarta (Soekarno-Hatta) or Medan (Polonia) airports; (d) transit passengers continuing their journey within a maximum of eight hours, provided holding valid onward or return documentation and not leaving the airport. Note: (a) 2. All journalists and business travellers regardless of nationality require visas and special permission. (b) All children travelling with parents who require visas must also have visas, even if travelling on their parents’ passports. (c) All visitors require sufficient funds in cash and/or travellers cheques. Credit cards can no longer be accepted as proof of a traveller’s financial status when applying for a visa or travelling to Indonesia, due to the fact that there has been regular misuse of credit cards and credit limits. Warning: Severe fines and, in some cases, prison sentences will be given to visitors who exceed their visa-free stay. Types of visa and cost: Tourist: £35 (for up to 60 days). Business/Social: £35 (for up to 60 days). Multiple-entry*: £125 (for one year). Transit: £15. Fees are non-refundable. The administration fee for visa approval and authorisation is £5. Note: *Multiple-entry visas are issued for business trips only and need approval from the Immigration Office in Indonesia. Validity: Tourist visas are valid for three months from date of issue for a maximum stay of 60 days. Single-entry Business/Social visas are valid for three months from date of issue for a maximum stay of 60 days. Multiple-entry visas are valid for a maximum of one year, with the length of each stay lasting no longer than 60 days. Transit visas are valid for 90 days after the date of issue for a period of up to 14 days. Application to: Visa section at Embassy; see Contact Addresses section. All visitors are advised to process their visas at the visa section at the Embassy before entry to Indonesia. Application requirements: Tourist visas: (a) Passport valid for at least six months from date of entry. (b) One application form (the original not a photocopy, signed by the applicant). (c) One passport-size photo. (d) Sufficient funds to cover duration of stay (see 2. above). (e) Onward or return tickets, which may be purchased at point of entry. (f) Fee (payable in cash or by postal order only). (g) A pre-paid special delivery envelope for postal applications. (h) Travel itinerary. Business visas: (a)-(g) and, (h) Two supporting letters from the applicant’s company in home country and the sponsor/counterpart in Indonesia stating the reason and duration of the visit and accommodation details. Social Visit visas: (a)-(g) and, (h) a letter of invitation from the applicant’s family, friends or relatives in Indonesia stating the reason and duration of the visit and details of accommodation. Multiple-entry Business visas: (b)-(g) and, (h) Written approval from the Indonesian Immigration Department. Working days required: Two to three days (personal applications); seven days (postal applications). However applications that need referral to the authorities in Indonesia may take two months or more. Temporary residence: People wishing to stay and work in Indonesia must apply directly to the Immigration Office in Indonesia for a Temporary Stay Visa. The Embassy in London cannot issue the visa unless, and until, special authorisation is given by the Immigration Office in Indonesia. The visa is valid for a period of 12 months and can be extended. The cost for 12 months is £100. It is advisable to have your Indonesian sponsor submit the application directly to the Directorate General of Immigration in Jakarta. For further information on temporary residence, contact the visa section at the Embassy (see Contact Addresses section). Note: People wishing to travel to Aceh, Irian Jaya and Maluka must obtain a special permit from the Indonesian Immigration Office and the State Police Headquarters in Jakarta. Upon arrival in Aceh, Irian Jaya and Maluka visitors must report to the local police office. Permits are issued at the discretion of the immigration authorities on presentation of a valid passport, a return ticket and several passport photographs. Gateways: Entry and exits must be made from one of the authorised 17 airports, 24 seaports or the authorised overland entry point: Air: Ambon (Pattimura), Balikpapan (Sepinggan), Bandung (Sastranegara), Batam (Hang Nadim), Biak (Frans Kaisiepo), Denpasar Bali (Ngurah Rai), Jakarta (Soekarno-Hatta), Kupang (Eltari), Manado (Samratulangi), Mataram (Selaparang), Medan (Polonia), Padang (Tabing), Pekan-baru (Simpang Tiga), Pontianak (Soepadio), Solo (Adi Sumarno), Surabaya (Juanda) and Ujung Pandang (Hassanadim). Sea: Ambon, Batu Ampar (Batam), Belawan (Medan), Bander Bentan Telani (Lagol), Bandar Seri Udana-Lobon (Tanjung Uban), Benoa (Bali), Bitung, Dumai, Karimum, Lembar (Mataram), Lhok Seumawe, Malahayati (Aceh), Nongsa Terminal Bahari (Batam), Padang Bai (Bali), Sekupang (Batam), Selat Kijang (Tanjung Pinang), Sultan Iskandar Muda (Aceh), Tanjung Balai Marina Teluk Senimba (Batam), Tanjung Mas (Semarang), Tanjung Perak (Surabaya), Tanjung Periok (Jakarta), Tanjung Pinang and Tenau (Kupang). Overland: Etikong (West Kalimantan). Note: Nationals of China (PR) may enter and exit from the following airports or seaports only: Air: Denpasar Bali (Ngurah Rai), Jakarta (Halim/Soekarno-Hatta) and Medan (Polonia). Sea: Belawan (Medan), Tanjung Perak (Surabaya) and Tanjung Periok (Jakarta). Money Currency: Rupiah (Rp) = 100 sen. Notes are in denominations of Rp100,000, 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5000, 1000, 500 and 100. Coins are in denominations of Rp1000, 500, 100, 50 and 25. Currency exchange: Although there should be no difficulty exchanging major currencies in the main tourist centres, problems may occur elsewhere. The easiest currency to exchange is the US Dollar. Credit & debit cards: MasterCard, American Express and Visa are widely accepted in Jakarta and the main tourist areas. In more remote areas, it is best to carry cash in small denominations. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available. Travellers cheques: Limited merchant acceptance but can be easily exchanged at banks and larger hotels. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in US Dollars or Pounds Sterling. Currency restrictions: There are no restrictions on the import or export of foreign currency. The import and export of local currency is limited to Rp5,000,000 which must be declared; more than Rp10,000,000 need authorisation. Failure to declare amounts in excess of Rp10,000,000 may result in heavy fines. Local currency may be exchanged on departure. Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Rupiah against Sterling and the US Dollar: Date May ’02 Aug ’02 Nov ’02 Feb ’03 £1.00= 13053.80 13517.0 14208.9 14195.7 $1.00= 8957.50 8887.50 8985.00 8915.50 Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1500. Duty Free The following goods may be imported into Indonesia by travellers over 18 years of age without incurring customs duty: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 100g of tobacco; 1l of alcohol (opened); a reasonable quantity of perfume; gifts up to a value of US$250. Note: Cameras must be declared on arrival. Video cameras, radio cassette recorders, binoculars and sport equipment may be imported provided exported on departure. Motion-picture film, video tapes, video laser discs, records and computer software must be screened by the censor board. Prohibited items: Weapons, ammunition, non-prescribed drugs, television sets and other electronic equipment, fresh fruit, Chinese publications and medicines, and pornography. Public Holidays Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Feb 1-3 Chinese New Year. Feb 12 Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice). Mar 5 Muharram (Islamic New Year). Apr 2 Nyepi (Hindu New Year). Apr 18 Good Friday. May 14 Mouloud (Birth of the Prophet). May 16 Waisak Day (Buddha’s Birthday). May 29 Ascension. Aug 17 Indonesian Independence Day. Sep 24 Lailat al Miraj (Ascension of the Prophet). Nov 26-28 Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan). Dec 25 Christmas Day. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Feb 2 Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice). Feb 22 Muharram (Islamic New Year). Feb 22-24 Chinese New Year. Mar 21 Nyepi (Hindu New Year). Apr 9 Good Friday. May 2 Mouloud (Birth of the Prophet). May 4 Waisak Day (Buddha’s Birthday). May 20 Ascension. Aug 17 Indonesian Independence Day. Sep 12 Lailat al Miraj (Ascension of the Prophet). Nov 14-16 Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan). Dec 25 Christmas Day. Note: (a) Muslim festivals are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximations. During the lunar month of Ramadan that precedes Eid al-Fitr, Muslims fast during the day and feast at night and normal business patterns may be interrupted. Many restaurants are closed during the day and there may be restrictions on smoking and drinking. Some disruption may continue into Eid al-Fitr itself. Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha may last anything from two to ten days, depending on the region. For more information, see the World of Islam appendix. (b) Buddhist festivals are also timed according to phases of the moon and variations may occur. Health   Special Precautions Certificate Required Yellow Fever No 1 Cholera Yes 2 Typhoid and Polio 3 N/A Malaria 4 N/A 1: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from travellers coming from infected areas. The countries and areas included in the yellow fever endemic zones are considered by Indonesia as infected areas. For a map of yellow fever endemic zones, see the Health appendix. 2: Following WHO guidelines issued in 1973, a cholera vaccination certificate is no longer a condition of entry to Indonesia. However, cholera is a serious risk in this country and precautions are essential. Up-to-date advice should be sought before deciding whether these precautions should include vaccination as medical opinion is divided over its effectiveness. See the Health appendix. 3: Typhoid occurs. Poliomyelitis transmission has been interrupted in Indonesia. 4: Malaria risk exists throughout the year everywhere except in the main tourist resorts of Java and Bali, Jakarta municipality and other big cities where risk is only slight. The malignant form falciparum is reported to be highly resistant to chloroquine and resistant to sulfadoxine/pyrimethane. The benign form vivax is reported to be resistant to chloroquine in Irian Jaya, where mefloquine is recommended. Food & drink: All water should be regarded as a potential health risk. Water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should have first been boiled or otherwise sterilised. Milk is unpasteurised and should be boiled. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised, but make sure that it is reconstituted with pure water. Avoid dairy products that are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Salad and mayonnaise may carry increased risk. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled. Other risks: Amoebic and bacillary dysenteries occur. Hepatitis A and E occur and hepatitis B is highly endemic. Japanese encephalitis and dengue fever can occur. Tuberculosis and diphtheria vaccinations are sometimes recommended. Bilharzia (schistosomiasis) is present in central Sulawesi. Avoid swimming and paddling in fresh water. Swimming pools which are well chlorinated and maintained are safe. Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix. Health care: Health insurance, to include emergency repatriation cover, is strongly advised. Adequate routine medical care is available in all major cities, but emergency services are generally inadequate outside major cities. Fees must be paid before leaving the hospital. Although medical costs are relatively cheap, drugs can be expensive. Travel - International Note: Travellers are advised against all recreational or non-essential travel to Indonesia, following the terrorist attacks on 12 October 2002 in which Western tourists were deliberately targeted. For further advice visitors should contact their local government travel advice department. AIR: Indonesia’s national airlines are Garuda Indonesia (GA) and Merpati Nusantara Airlines (MZ). Other major airlines that serve Indonesia include Air France, KLM, Qantas, Lufthansa, Emirates, Japan Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Air India, Sinagapore Airlines, Gulf Air and Thai Airways International. Approximate flight times: From London to Jakarta is 20 hours 20 minutes and to Bali is 22 hours 15 minutes (with a good connection in Jakarta). From Los Angeles to Jakarta is 24 hours 20 minutes. From New York to Jakarta is 30 hours via Europe or 31 hours via Los Angeles. From Singapore to Jakarta is 1 hour 35 minutes. From Sydney to Jakarta is 7 hours 55 minutes. International airports: Jakarta (CGK) (Soekarno-Hatta) is 20km (12 miles) northwest of the city (travel time – 45 minutes). Airport facilities include banks/bureaux de change, a post office (open 0800-1400 in public area of zone B; 0800-1900 in zone D), duty-free shops, gift shops, restaurants (open 1 hour before and after flights), snack bars (available until 2100), car hire and 24-hour medical/vaccination facilities. A bus goes to the city every 30 minutes. Buses leave Jakarta from Gambir railway station and from Rawamangun and Blok M bus stations. Taxis are also available to the city centre at a cost of approximately Rp1500 plus Rp550 per km. A regular bus shuttle goes to Jakarta’s second airport, Halim Perdana Kusuma (HLP), 13km (8 miles) southeast of the city (travel time – 45 minutes). Denpasar (DPS) (Ngurah Rai), 13km (8 miles) south of the city, is the main airport on Bali (travel time – 30 minutes). There are duty-free facilities at the airport. A bus goes to the city centre. Taxis are available to the city and to Kuta, Logian, Sanur and Nusadua. Departure tax: Rp50,000 (infants under the age of two are exempt) if departing from Jakarta or Denpasar airports. Up to Rp100,000 from other airports. Note: For a list of the air- and seaports which may be used to enter and exit Indonesia, see the Passport/Visa section. SEA: International ports are listed at the end of the Passport/Visa section. High-speed ferries run between Sumatra and Malaysia. Routes are either Medan–Penang or Dumai–Melaka. There are also services between Mandalo (Sulawesi) and the Philippines. Cruise Lines: Cunard, Norwegian, Orient Lines, P&O, Radisson Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean and Crystal Cruises. RAIL: There is a daily sea and rail service between Belawan and Penang (West Malaysia) operated by National Railroad of Indonesia. ROAD: Indonesia’s international land borders are between Kalimantan and the Malaysian states of Sarawak and Sabah on the island of Borneo, and Irian Jaya and Papua New Guinea. There are no road links with Sabah and the few (poorly maintained) roads to Sarawak are not recognised as gateways to Indonesia. Travel - Internal AIR: Indonesia has a good internal air system linking most of the larger towns to Jakarta. Domestic flights from Jakarta depart from Terminal 1 at Soekarno-Hatta International Airport (except Garda Airlines flights, which leave from Terminal 2). Domestic operators include: Bouraq Indonesia Airlines (BO), Garuda Indonesia (GA) and Merpati Nusantara Airlines (MZ). Cheap fares: The Asean Air Pass offers special fares on domestic flights and gives access to varying numbers of cities depending on the ticket bought. Passes must be bought at Garuda Indonesia offices in Europe, USA, Australia and Japan (not available inside Indonesia). For prices and further information, contact Garuda Indonesia (tel: (020) 7486 3011; fax: (020) 224 3971). Departure tax: Rp11,000 if departing from Jakarta Airport. Rp9900 if departing from all other airports (infants under the age of two are exempt). SEA: PELINI, the state-owned shipping company, has six modern ferries serving all the main ports across the archipelago. Foreign cruise liners also operate on an irregular basis. Luxury cruise ships offer trips to various destinations, including the eastern islands (leaving from Bali). For further details, contact the Indonesia Tourism Promotion Office (see Contact Addresses section). RAIL: Children under three travel free. Children aged three to seven pay half fare. There are nearly 7000km (4350 miles) of track on Sumatra, Madura and Java. In Sumatra, trains connect Belawan, Medan and Tanjong Balai/Rantu Prapet (two or three trains daily) in the north, and Palembang and Panjang (three trains daily) in the south. An extensive rail network runs throughout Java. The Bima Express, which has sleeping and restaurant cars, links Jakarta and Surabaya; there are also other express services. There are three classes of travel, but first-class exists only on principal expresses. There is some air-conditioned accommodation. ROAD: Traffic drives on the left. There are over 378,000km (234,360 miles) of roads in the country, of which about 28,500km (17,670 miles) are main or national roads and 200km (125 miles) are motorway. Nearly half of the network is paved. There are good road communications within Java and to a lesser extent on Bali and Sumatra. The other islands have poor road systems, although conditions are improving with tourism becoming more important. Road tolls are in operation on some major city roads and need to be paid for by visitors if using a taxi. Chauffeur-driven cars are widely available, with rates varying according to the type of destination. Bus: There are regular services between most towns. Bus trips can be made from Jakarta to Bali (two days). Indonesia is the land of jam karet (literally ‘rubber time’) and complicated journeys involving more than a single change should not be attempted in a day. Bus fares are about the same as third-class rail. Vehicles can be extremely crowded, although many of them are air conditioned. The crew includes three conductors who also act as touts. There are ‘Bis Malam’ night buses on a number of routes, running in competition with the railways. Pre-booking is essential. Special ‘travel minibuses’ offering a door-to-door service are also available in cities and major tourist areas. Visitors should note that Indonesian bus drivers are notorious for reckless driving. Taxi: Widely available in most large cities and some smaller towns. Metered taxis are usually only found in the main cities and major tourist areas. Taxi drivers do not always know how to get to the desired destination and passengers may have to tell them. Like all public transport vehicles, taxis have yellow number plates (for private and rented vehicles, the number plates are black, while government vehicles have red plates). Car hire: Car hire is available from a number of companies and from taxi firms, some of which also provide a limousine service. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is required. Alternative transport: There are two forms of tricycle rickshaws available in Indonesia: the motorised version is called bajaj (pronounced ‘baj-eye’), which is a bright orange colour and seats two passengers, with the driver in front; and the becak (pronounced ‘be-chak’) is pedal-powered by a rider sitting behind a maximum of two passengers. Fares should be negotiated in advance. Rickshaws are an extremely popular and cheap form of transport and can be hired almost everywhere (though becaks have now been banned from Jakarta city centre). Motorcycles and bicycles can be rented on a daily or weekly basis; for motorcycles, an international driving licence is recommended and a helmet should be worn. Bemos and Colts are small buses, seating up to ten people, and can be chartered on a daily or weekly basis for travel away from the city centres; fares should be negotiated in advance. Horse carts may still be hired in rural areas (though they are no longer available in Jakarta). URBAN: Jakarta is the only city with an established conventional bus service of any size. Double-deckers are operated. Accommodation International hotels are found only in major towns and tourist areas. Several of these have business centres with a variety of services. High hotel taxes are charged (ten per cent service, plus 11 per cent government tax). However, hotels of all grades from deluxe to standard can be found in most towns around the country. Resort hotels on Bali vary from international class, luxury hotels to beach cottages along the shore. Most hotels have pools and can supply most leisure equipment. Grading: All hotels are graded according to facilities. For more information, contact the Indonesian Hotel and Restaurant Association, Wisma Nugra Santana, Fourth Floor, Jendral Sudirman Kav 8, Jakarta 10220 (tel: (21) 570 6909; fax: (21) 570 6888). Introduction For the purposes of this section the country has been divided into the main tourist areas: Java, Sulawesi, Sumatra, Bali, Lombok and Eastern Indonesia. Java JAKARTA: The capital city of Jakarta retains much from the colonial Dutch and British periods, with many fine colonial-style buildings and the recently restored ‘old quarter’. The National Monument towers 140m (450ft) above the Merdeka Square and is crowned with a ‘flame’ plated in pure gold. The Central Museum has a fine ethnological collection including statues dating from the pre-Hindu era. Worth visiting is the Portuguese Church, completed by the Dutch in 1695, which houses a magnificent and immense Dutch pump organ. The modern Istiqlal Mosque in the city centre is one of the largest in the world. There is an antiques market on Jalan Surabaya and batik factories in the Karet. Throughout the island, puppet shows are staged in which traditional wayang gotek and wayang kulit marionettes act out stories based on well-known legends; performances can sometimes last all night. ELSEWHERE ON JAVA: Around 13km (8 miles) from Yogyakarta is the Prambanan temple complex, built in honour of the Hindu gods Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu, which includes the tenth-century Temple of Loro Jonggrang and said to be the most perfectly proportioned Hindu temple in Indonesia. At the temple there are also open-air performances of Ramayana ballet which involve hundreds of dancers, singers and gamelan musicians. Perched on a hill to the west of Yogyakarta is Borobudur, probably the largest Buddhist sanctuary in the world, which contains more than 5km (3 miles) of relief carvings. The Royal Mangkunegaran Palace in Surakarta is now used as a museum and has displays of dance ornaments, jewellery and 19th-century carriages used for royal occasions. Mount Bromo in the east of Java is still very active, and horseback treks to the crater’s edge can be made from nearby Surabaya. During August and September, Madura is a venue for a series of bullock races which culminate in a 48-hour non-stop carnival celebration in the town of Pamekasan. Sulawesi Unofficially known as ‘Orchid Island’, Sulawesi is a land of high mountains, misty valleys and lakes. In the south is Bantimurung Nature Reserve which has thousands of exotic butterflies. The island has geysers and hot springs, the most celebrated of which are at Makule, Karumengan, Lahendong, Kinilow and Leilem. Torajaland is known as the ‘Land of the Heavenly Kings’ and its people are noted for their richly ornamented houses and custom of burying the dead in vertical cliffside tombs. Ujung Pandang, formerly Makassar, is celebrated for the Pinsa Harbour where wooden schooners of the famous Buganese seafarers are moored. Fort Rotterdam, built by Sultan Ala in 1660 to protect the town from pirates, is now being restored. Racing is a popular island activity; there is horse-racing and bullock-racing and at Ranomuut there are races with traditional horse-drawn carts (bendi). Sumatra Sumatra is the second-largest island in Indonesia, straddling the Equator, with a volcanic mountain range, hot springs, unexplored jungle and vast plantations. There are many reserves established to protect the indigenous wildlife from extinction. Mount Loeser Reserve, Bengkulu and Gedung Wani organise supervised safaris enabling visitors to see tigers, elephants, tapirs and rhinos at close hand. Lake Toba, once a volcanic crater, is 900m (3000ft) above sea level and has an inhabited island in the middle. Lingga village near Medan is a traditional Karonese settlement with stilted wooden houses which have changed little through the centuries. At Bukkitinggi is the old fortress of Fort de Kock and nearby a zoo, market, a renovated rice barn and the Bundo Kandung Museum. The best beaches are on the east coast. Bali The landscape of Bali, ‘Island of the Gods’, is made up of volcanic mountains, lakes and rivers, terraced ricefields, giant banyans and palm groves and, on the coast, bays ringed with white sandy beaches. The island lies a short distance from the eastern coast of Java, across the Strait of Bali. Although its total area is only 2095 sq km (1309 sq miles) the island supports a population of approximately 2.5 million. Unlike the rest of Indonesia, the predominant religious faith is Hinduism, though in a special form known as ‘Agama-Hindu’. Stretching east to west across the island is a volcanic chain of mountains, dominated by the mighty Gunung Agung (Holy Mountain) whose conical peak soars more than 3170m (10,400ft) into the sky. North of the mountains, where the fertility of the terrain permits, is an area devoted to the production of vegetables and copra. The fertile rice-growing region lies on the central plains. The tourist areas are in the south, around Sanur Beach and at Kuta, which lies on the other side of a narrow isthmus. Nearby Nusa Dusa is also a popular tourist area and has a number of reasonably priced resorts and hotels. The island has thousands of temples – the exact number has never been counted – ranging from the great ‘Holy Temple’ at Besakih to small village places of worship. Of the many festivals, most are held twice a year and involve splendid processions, dances and daily offerings of food and flowers made to the gods. Cremations are also held in great style, though their cost is often almost prohibitive for the average Balinese family. Denpasar is the island’s capital. Sights include the Museum, a new art centre and the internationally recognised Konservatori Kerawitan, one of the major centres of Balinese dancing. The Sea Temple of Tanah Lot on the west coast (a short drive from Kediri) is one of the most breathtaking sights of Bali. Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave) near Bedulu is a huge cavern with an entrance carved in a fantastic design of demonical shapes, animals and plants, crowned by a monstrous gargoyle-like head. The Holy Springs of Tampaksiring are believed to possess curative properties and attract thousands of visitors each year. Serangan Island is also known as Turtle Island because of the turtles kept there in special pens. The island lies south of Sanur and can be reached by sail boat or, at low tide, on foot. Every six months, the island becomes the scene of a great thanksgiving ceremony in which tens of thousands take part. The sacred monkey forest at Sangeh is a forest reserve which, as well as being the home of a variety of exotic apes, also has a temple. Penelokan is a splendid vantage point for views of the black lava streams from Mount Batur. It is also possible to sail across the nearby Lake Batur to Trunyan for a closer look at the crater. North of Kintamani, at an altitude of 1745m (5725ft), lies the highest temple on the island, Penulisan. Pura Besakih, a temple which dates back originally to the tenth century, stands high on the volcanic slopes of Gunung Agung. Nowadays, it is a massive complex of more than 30 temples, and the setting for great ceremonial splendour on festival days. Padangbai is a beautiful tropical coastal village, where lush vegetation backs a curving stretch of white, sandy beach. It is also the island’s port of call for giant cruise liners. Goa Lawah lives up to its name (‘bat cave’ in the local tongue), a safe and holy haven for thousands of bats which line every inch of space on its walls and roof. Non bat-lovers should avoid moonlight strolls in the area, as the animals leave for food sorties at night. Kusambe is a fishing village with a black sand beach. Lake Bratan is reached via a winding road from Budugul. The shimmering cool beauty of the lake and its pine-forested hillsides is an unusual sight in a tropical landscape. Art centres: The village of Ubud is the centre of Bali’s considerable art colony and contains the galleries of the most successful painters, including those of artists of foreign extraction who have settled on the island. Set in a hilltop garden is the Museam Puri Lukistan (Palace of Fine Arts) with its fine display of sculpture and paintings in both old and contemporary styles. Kamasan, near Klungkung, is another centre, but the painting style of the artists is predominantly wayang (highly stylised). Other artistic centres include Celuk (gold and silver working), Denpasar (woodworking and painting) and Batubulan (stone carving). Lombok Only a 15-minute flight (or ferry trip) away is Lombok, an unspoilt island whose name means ‘chilli pepper’. Its area is 1285 sq km (803 sq miles). The island possesses one of the highest volcanic mountains in the Indonesian archipelago, Mount Rindjani, whose cloud-piercing peak soars to 3745m (12,290ft). The population of about 750,000 is a mixture of Islamic Sasaks, Hindu Balinese and others of Malay origin. The two main towns are Mataram, the capital, and the busy port of Ampenan; both are interesting to explore. The south coast is rocky. The west, with shimmering rice terraces, banana and coconut groves and fertile plains, looks like an extension of Bali. The east is dry, barren and desert-like in appearance. The north, the region dominated by Mount Rindjani, offers thick forests and dramatic vistas. There are also some glorious beaches, some of white sand, others, such as those near Ampenan, of black sand. At Narmada, reached by an excellent east–west highway, is a huge complex of palace dwellings, complete with a well containing ‘rejuvenating waters’, built for a former Balinese king. At Pamenang, visitors can hire a boat and go skindiving, entering a clear-water world of brilliantly coloured coral and inquisitive tropical fish. Eastern Indonesia The wildest and least visited of Indonesia’s 17,000 islands are in the east, gathered in two great archipelagos north and south of the treacherous Banda Sea. MOLUCCAN ARCHIPELAGO: Also known as the Maluku Archipelago, it is made up of 1000 islands, many uninhabited and the rest so isolated from each other and (since the decline of the spice trade) from the outside world that each has its own culture and very often its own language. Halmahera is the largest island in the Moluccan group and one of the most diverse. On the coast are relic populations of all the great powers who competed for domination of the Spice Trade – Arabs, Gujuratis, Malays, Portuguese and Dutch – whilst inland the people speak a unique language that has little or nothing in common even with other unique, but related, languages on the more remote islands. Morotai, to the north, was the site of a Japanese air base during World War II, but is now engaged in the production of copra and cocoa products. Ternate and Tidore, tiny volcanic islands off the west coast of Halmahera, were once the world’s most important source of cloves and consequently amassed far more wealth and power than their size would seem to merit. The Sultanate of Ternate was an independent military power of considerable muscle before the arrival of the Portuguese, exerting influence over much of South-East Asia. Both islands are littered with the remains of this and the equally strident colonial era, and draw more tourists than their larger neighbour. Further south, Ambon was another important centre of the clove trade and has over 40 old Dutch fortresses dating from the early 17th century. Banda, in the middle of the Banda Sea, is often referred to as the original ‘Spice Island’ and is famous as a nutmeg-growing centre. NUSA TENGARA ARCHIPELAGO: Nusa Penida was at one time a penal colony but now attracts visitors to its dramatic seascapes and beaches. Komodo is home to the world’s largest and rarest species of monitor lizard, while Sumba is noted for its beautiful Ikat cloth. Mount Keli Mutu is one of Indonesia’s most spectacular natural sights, famous for its three crater lakes, whose striking colours change with the light of the day. The islands north of Timor – including Solor, Lembata, Adonara, Alor, Wetar and Pantar – are rarely visited by tourists; there are many old fortresses on the islands and from here seafarers used to set sail on whale hunts. Timor itself is out of bounds to tourists because of the bloody and protracted war with freedom fighters in the east of the island. The cultures on Roti, Ndau and Sawu have apparently changed little since the Bronze Age, yet the islands’ inhabitants are renowned as musicians and palm weavers. The Terawangan Islands is a small group with beautiful beaches and coral gardens. Lucipara has excellent waters for snorkelling. Kangean, Tenggaya, Bone Rate and Tukang Besi is a group of isolated atolls in the Flores and Banda seas, epitomising a tropical paradise. IRIAN JAYA: The western part of the island of New Guinea, this is one of the last great unexplored areas of the world. Even today, visiting ships are often greeted by flotillas of warriors in war canoes. All those intending to visit Irian Jaya must obtain special permits from State Police Headquarters in Jakarta. Travelllers are advised to avoid this area at present. Sport & Activities Surfing: The Indonesian archipelago is one of the world’s top surfing destinations. The best time to surf is from April to September with the best waves generally found on islands facing south and southwest, including Sumatra, Java, Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa, Flores and Sumba. Some well-known surfing beaches, such as Ulu Watu on Bali, tend to get overcrowded, but organised trips to isolated areas are widely available. Surf camps such as those at Lagundri Bay (Nias) or Cempi Bay (Sumbawa) offer basic accommodation and simple food. Windsurfing is particularly popular on Bintan Island and Sanur and Nusa Dua beaches on Bali. Diving: There are approximately 80,000km (50,000 miles) of coastline, reputed to contain 15 per cent of the world’s coral reefs. In spite of the obvious opportunities, Indonesia’s diving industry is still relatively young, though the number of companies offering courses and excursions is rising rapidly. On Java island, the best diving is on the west coast, where three volcanic islands mark the remains of the Krakatau volcano (which last erupted in 1883). Bali’s tourist stronghold in the Kuta, Nusa Dua and Suar triangle offers easy and moderate diving, with easily accessible reefs. Tours to more remote (and less busy) areas are available. On the northern tip of Sulawesi island, the Taman Nasional Laut Bunaken Manado Tua is a national marine reserve with particularly steep coral walls; international air connections to the island facilitate access. Further north, the lesser-known Sanggihe-Talaud and Togian islands are reached by live-aboard dive boats. In the south, Take Bone Rate is the world’s third largest atoll while the Tukang Besi islands have featured extensively in the films by the French underwater explorer Jacques Cousteau. Nusa Tenggara’s most popular sites are the three Gili islands near Lombok, whose calm shallow waters are ideal for beginners. Maluku consists of approximately 1000 islands and has only recently been discovered as a top diving destination. Southeast of Ambon, the Bandana islands are accessible by air and offer a number of sites suitable for beginners and experienced divers. The major resort in the Sumatra and Riau islands is Bintan, easily accessible from Singapore. The clearest and most colourful dive sites are in Pulau Sikuai off the Padang coast (western Sumatra) and Pulau Weh off Banda Aceh (northern Sumatra). Irian Jaya also offers good diving around the famous Mapia Atoll (where dolphins and killer whales can sometimes be spotted) and the waters of Cenderawasih Bay off the western end of Bird’s Head peninsula. Climbing: The island of Sumatra is perhaps the best location. Gunung Padang, near the island’s capital, Padang, is a small black basalt cliff reached via a river-paddling trip followed by a trek through rainforest. Further inland, Bukittinggi offers challenging cliffs overlooking rice paddies. The dramatic canyon rocks in nearby Harau National Park are still largely unexplored and should only be attempted by experienced climbers. Caving: Indonesia’s most accessible caves are on the island of Java and include Luweng Jaran, stretching over 20km (125 miles) beneath the Gunung Seuw mountain range; Gua Barat, which has the longest underground river system in the southern hemisphere; and Gombong, whose stone towers rise spectacularly to some 40m (132ft) above sea level. On Kalimantan island, Mangkalihat offers a rarely visited underground world of giant limestone corridors. Even less explored are the isolated caves near Wamena on the remote Bird’s Head peninsula in Irian Jaya. Sailing: The majority of companies offering whitewater rafting are located in Bali, where several rivers – including the Ayung, Unda, Ubaya, Balian and Telega – are commercially rafted. Spectacular rapids can also be found on the Citartik River (western Java), the Sadan River (Sulawesi) and the Alas River (Sumatra). Rapids are generally at their strongest between November and March. River tours up the great Mahakam River on the island of Kalimantan, which is dissected by a network of rivers running from the mountainous interior to the coasts, are billed as a trip into the ‘heart of darkness’. Starting from the port city Samarinda, such tours last for several days (with on-board accommodation available) and continue deep into the upper jungle reaches, where tribal communities have largely preserved their traditions. Trekking: Indonesia has some 120 active volcanoes and numerous volcano treks are possible: on Java island, popular volcanic destinations include Krakatoa (reached by a five-hour boat trip followed by a 30-minute climb), Mount Bromo (the most visited of Indonesia’s volcanoes) and Kawah Ijen (whose crater is filled by a turquoise-blue lake). Those preferring dormant volcanoes may head to Gunung Agung in Bali (known as the ‘Navel of the World’), Gunung Rinjani on Lombok island (which has hot springs at the top and is revered for its mystical qualities) and Keli Mutu on Nusa Tenggara Barat (whose crater contains three spectacular mineral lakes). For jungle trekking through the Indonesian rainforest, the islands of Kalimantan, Sumatra and Irian Jaya offer the most remote and untouched terrain. The best trails include trips to Bukit Barisan National Park, a remote and beautiful peninsula in Sumatra (with routes leading through tropical rainforest onto a beach inhabited by turtles); the Muller Mountain on Kalimantan (with a trail following the traditional jungle route used by the native Iban people); and Lake Habbema on Irian Jaya (a week-long trek to remote villages and mountains). Ecotourism: Having been criticised, in the past, for the destruction of large areas of its rainforest through forest exploitation, the Indonesian government is now keen to encourage an environmentally friendly tourism policy. The growing trend for back-to-nature holidays means that numerous types of eco-tours are available. In the Tukangbeshi archipelago near Sulawesi, tourists have the opportunity to participate in coral reef preservation projects by helping to collect scientific data. Social Profile Food & Drink: The staple diet for most Indonesians is rice (nasi), which is replaced on some islands with corn, sago, cassava and sweet potatoes. Rice dishes include nais campur, nasi uduk and rasirames. Indonesia’s spices make its local cuisine unique. Specialities include: rijstafel (a Dutch concoction consisting of a variety of meats, fish, vegetables and curries), sate (chunks of beef, fish, pork, chicken or lamb cooked on hot coals and dipped in peanut sauce). Almost every type of international cuisine is available in Jakarta, the most popular being Chinese, French, Italian, Japanese and Korean sate ajam (broiled, skewered marinated chicken), ajam ungkap (Central Java; deep-fried, marinated chicken), sate lileh (Bali; broiled, skewered fish sticks), ikan acar kuning (Jakarta; lightly marinated fried fish served in a sauce of pickled spices and palm sugar), soto (a soup dish with dumpling, chicken and vegetables), gado-gado (Java; a salad of raw and cooked vegetables with peanut and coconut milk sauce), babi guling (Bali; roast suckling pig) and opor ajam (boiled chicken in coconut milk and light spices). Indonesians like their food highly spiced and the visitor should always bear this in mind. In particular look out for the tiny, fiery hot, red and green peppers often included in salads and vegetable dishes. Seafood is excellent and features highly on menus everywhere (with salt and fresh water fish, lobsters, oysters, prawns, shrimp, squid, shark and crab all available). Coconuts, which are found everywhere, are often used for cooking. Vegetables and fresh fruit, such as bananas, papaya, pineapple and oranges, are available throughout the year; some tropical fruit such as mango, watermelon and papaya is seasonal. A feature of Jakarta are the many warungs (street stalls). Each specialises in its own dish or drink, but travellers are probably best advised not to try them without the advice of an Indonesian resident. There are restaurants in the hotels which, along with many others, serve European, Chinese and Indian food. Indonesia is a major producer and exporter of coffee and tea, which is available on almost every street corner. Bali produces a delicious rice wine called brem while in Tana Toraja (southern Sulawesi), visitors may wish to sample a Tuak, a famously potent local brew. Local pilsner beer is also available. Nightlife: Jakarta nightclubs feature international singers and bands and are open until 0400 during weekends. Jakarta has over 40 cinemas and some English-language and subtitled films are shown. There are also casinos, and theatres providing cultural performances. Dancing is considered an art, encouraged and practised from very early childhood. The extensive repertoire is based on ancient legends and stories from religious epics. Performances are given in village halls and squares, and also in many of the leading hotels by professional touring groups. The dances vary enormously, both in style and number of performers. Some of the more notable are the Legong, a slow, graceful dance of divine nymphs; the Baris, a fast moving, noisy demonstration of male, warlike behaviour; and the Jauk, a riveting solo offering by a masked and richly costumed demon. Many consider the most dramatic of all to be the famous Cecak (Monkey Dance) which calls for 100 or more very agile participants. Many of the larger hotels, particularly in Bali, put on dance shows accompanied by the uniquely Indonesian Gamelan Orchestras. Throughout the year, many local moonlight festivals occur; tourists should check locally. Indonesian puppets are world famous and shows for visitors are staged in various locations. Shopping: Favourite buys are batik cloth, woodcarvings and sculpture, silverwork, woven baskets and hats, bamboo articles, krises (small daggers), paintings and woven cloth. At small shops, bartering might be necessary. Shopping hours: Mon-Sun 1000-2200. Most local markets open either very early in the morning or at dusk. Special Events: There are numerous festivals which take place during the year, the dates of which often vary according to the Hindu or Buddhist calendars. Bali stages some magnificent festivals all year round. Festival calendars can be obtained on arrival. The Sultan’s birthday in mid December is celebrated by a fair and festival in Yogyakarta, Java. For a full list of festivals and special events, contact the Indonesia Tourism Promotion Board or a representative ITPO office (see Contact Addresses). The following are some of the main festivals and events held in Indonesia in 2003: Jan 14 Lomban Festival (fishermen’s festival), Jepara. Feb 12 Grebeg Basar (Muslim festival of the sacrafice), Yogyakarta. Apr 12-13 Nyepi (Day of Silence), Bali and Tenggara. May 16 Waisak Festival (Birth of Buddha), Borobodur near Mendut. Jun 1-30 Tabuik Festival (Muslim festival), Pariaman. Jun 14 The Sabah Dragon Boat Festival, Likas Bay in Borneo. Jun 22-Jul 20 Bali Arts Festival, Denpasar. Jul 10-11 Petik Lauk Ceremony (Sea Offering), Banyuwangi. Aug 1-Sep 31 Kerapan Sapi (bull races), Madura Island. Aug 2-12 Galungan and Kuningan Festival, Bali. Sep 1-30 Renggong Horse Contest, Sumedang. Oct 20-27 Dandangan (festival for the start of Ramadan), Kudus. Oct 23-27 Dugderran (festival for the start of Ramadan), Semarang. Oct 26 Potang Balimu (bathing ceremony for the start of Ramadan), Kampar. Oct 27 Pager Wesi (Balinese Hindu festival), Singaraja. Social Conventions: Indonesia encompasses at least 583 separate languages and dialects, many of them as different from each other as Welsh is from English. Since independence, many people have developed a strong sense of national pride, and maintain traditions of dance, painting, woodcarving and stonecarving. Social courtesies are often fairly formal. In particular, when drink or food is served, it should not be touched until the host invites the guest to do so. Never pass or accept anything with the left hand. Public displays of affection between men and women are frowned upon and kissing in public will attract a great deal of unwanted attention. Touching a stranger of the same sex while in conversation is very common. Pointing is considered impolite and patting children on the head should be avoided. Indonesians are polite and will extend endless courtesies to visitors whom they trust and like. Smiling is a cultural tradition and Indonesians smile frequently, even in an uncomfortable or difficult situation. Visitors should avoid the temptation of losing their temper. When invited home, a gift is appreciated (as long as it is given with the right hand). Informality is normal, but a few smart establishments encourage guests to dress for dinner. Safari suits are acceptable on formal occasions and for business wear. Muslim customs, especially those concerning female clothes, should be observed. Tipping: Tipping is normal and ten per cent is customary, except where a service charge is included in the bill. Taxi fees should be rounded up to the nearest number. Small change is rarely given and visitors should carry a supply of their own. Business Profile Economy: ‘The most dramatic economic collapse anywhere in the past five decades’ is how one World Bank official described the calamitous disintegration of the Indonesian economy in the autumn of 1997. In 1998, economic output in Indonesia declined by more than 12 per cent and the national currency, the Rupiah, lost 80 per cent of its value. The crash occurred after more than a decade of uninterrupted growth at between eight and ten per cent annually. In January 1998, the IMF was forced into arranging its largest-ever financial rescue package, totalling US$43 billion, in order to prevent total economic collapse. During 1999, the economy stabilised and, since 2000, has resumed steady annual growth of around four per cent; but the legacy of the crisis is still evident in the wariness of foreign donors and investors to deal with Indonesia: under the Suharto regime, much of the economy functioned under a system of ‘crony capitalism’ and this has yet to be effectively addressed, let alone dismantled. More importantly for the Indonesian people, the sudden mass unemployment which followed the collapse of thousands of enterprises continues to cause widespread hardship. Thirty years earlier, as Indonesia’s economic expansion began in earnest after the upheavals of the mid 60s, the country was far less developed than many of its neighbours. However, it was able to exploit its considerable mineral resources as a foundation on which to build an industrial economy. Oil and natural gas are the most important raw materials produced by Indonesia; it is still one of the largest exporters of liquefied natural gas. The country is also the second-largest producer of tin and extracts substantial quantities of other metals and metal ores (bauxite, copper, silver gold and nickel) as well as coal and rubber. Much of the processing of these products is now done within the country. The agricultural sector (including fishing and forestry) remains important but more as a source of employment – it accounts for half the work force – than for its contribution to the economy. The service sector grew rapidly from the beginning of the 1980s onwards. Tourism has become a major industry and a vital source of foreign exchange: 1996 revenue was estimated at more than US$6 billion. Transport and communications, financial services and international freight traffic also made important contributions. However, it was the manufacturing industry, which developed from virtual non-existence in 1965 to its mid-90s position of providing one quarter of economic output, which received most attention from the Government (as well as outsiders) and announced Indonesia’s arrival as a fully fledged ‘Asian Tiger’ economy. Despite the high profile of the vehicle, aerospace and electronics industries, Indonesia’s manufacturing success was rooted in less glamorous areas such as textiles, food processing, tobacco and timber products. The bulk of Indonesia’s trade is conducted within the region, especially with Japan (which accounts for approximately one quarter of total trade), Singapore, Korea, Australia and China (including Hong Kong). Outside the region, the USA and Germany are its major trading partners. Business: Business dealings should be conducted through an agent and tend to be slow. Visiting cards are widely used. Literature should be in English, but prices should be quoted in US Dollars as well as Pounds Sterling. Private office hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700. Government office hours: Mon-Thurs 0800-1430, Fri 0800-1200. Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Kamar Dagang dan Industri Indonesia (KADIN) (Indonesian Chamber of Commerce and Industry), Third-Fifth Floors, Chandra Building, Jalan M H Thamrin 20, Jakarta 10350 (tel: (21) 324 000; fax: (21) 315 0241). Conferences/Conventions: The Balai Sidang Jakarta Convention Centre has the capacity for up to 5000 people. For information or assistance in organising a conference or convention in Indonesia, contact the Directorate-General of Tourism or the Indonesia Tourism Promotion Board or a representative IPTO office (see Contact Addresses section). Climate Tropical climate varying from area to area. The eastern monsoon brings the driest weather (June to September), while the western monsoon brings the main rains (December to March). Rainstorms occur all year. Higher regions are cooler. Required clothing: Lightweights with rainwear. Warmer clothes are needed for cool evenings and upland areas. History and Government History: Modern Indonesia is an amalgam of more than 13,000 islands incorporating a wide variety of cultural and religious traditions. For almost 1000 years, Indonesia has been involved in maritime trade resulting in a wide range of religious, cultural and ethnic influences. The Chinese were among the first to trade with the islands, followed in the eighth century AD by Hindu and Buddhist merchants from India who built up two empires, known as Srivijaya and Majapahit. These were supplanted in the 13th century by Islamic influences brought by Arab and Malay seafarers. The English and Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive in the area in the 16th century but in 1595 the Dutch East India Company took control of trade in the area. From 1814 until the Japanese invasion during World War II, Indonesia’s people and resources were subjected to the autocratic Dutch rule. The main independence movement, the Indonesian Nationalist Party (PNI), emerged in the 1920s under the leadership of Ahmed Sukarno. It was thoroughly suppressed by the Dutch and remained largely underground until the Dutch East Indies were overrun by the Japanese during World War II. The Japanese installed a puppet PNI government for the duration of their occupation. Following the Japanese defeat in 1945, the PNI declared independence. This was quickly challenged by the Dutch who despatched a military expeditionary force to Indonesia and arrested Sukarno. However by 1949, under international pressure, they were forced to concede the country’s sovereignty. The colonial powers had depleted much of Indonesia’s wealth while contributing little to its development. The Sukarno government had a massive development task ahead of it. It also had to forge a national consciousness among dozens of mutually suspicious tribes and ethnic groups. The leaders chose as their national motto the phrase Bhineka Tunggalika, meaning ‘unity in diversity’. The new Government planned a federal structure for the country, but in 1950 reverted to a unitary state. This concentrated political and economic power in Java, and produced resentment elsewhere. Sukarno’s growing authoritarianism at home was accompanied by an activist foreign policy which attracted, in particular, the enmity of the USA and its allies, who were suspicious of Sukarno’s Cold-War neutrality. Economic difficulties further fuelled the growth of the opposition, in particular the powerful Indonesian Communist Party (PKI). In September 1965, a coup was launched by sections of the army with full PKI support. The immediate political struggle, which the Government eventually won, was one of the closest in recent history. With discreet support from the Western powers, the army Chief of Staff, General Suharto, backed Sukarno, and saved the regime. Between 400,000 and one million were massacred by the army in the aftermath of the coup. Sukarno was now politically crippled and, in March 1967, was replaced by Suharto. Suharto remained as President until his (forced) resignation in May 1998. Under the Suharto government, the army always held ultimate political power while a technocrat class was left to run the country day-to-day. The Golkar (Partai Golongan Karya) party was established as the regime’s official political vehicle. Until the fall of Suharto in 1998, Golkar and its candidates won every election with comfortable majorities. The regime brought Indonesia relative peace and stability and steady economic growth. Manifestations of Muslim fundamentalism – Indonesia is the world’s largest Muslim country – were rigorously controlled by the Government: both Sukarno and Suharto adhered to a policy of allowing religious diversity as a guarantor of social stability, although attempts to enshrine this formally in an official doctrine of Pancasila were dropped and the Government introduced various stop-gap pro-Islamic policies. Sukarno’s foreign policy was determinedly neutralist: Indonesia was a founding and active member of the Non-Aligned Movement. His successor, Suharto, steadily tilted his country towards the West and joined the pro-Western ASEAN bloc (Association of South East Asian Nations). From the mid 1980s onwards, he also made some efforts to improve relations with the Soviet Union and China. The trigger for the fall of Suharto was the Asian financial crisis of 1997. Indonesia suffered particularly badly, as the structural flaws in the economy were laid bare (see Economy section). As thousands were thrown out of work, months of rioting and protest followed. The army, which was already struggling with several insurgencies on Indonesia’s outlying territories (see below), began to show signs of dissent. In May 1998, once the influential Muslim leader Amien Rais and various senior military figures had lent their voices to the clamour already demanding Suharto’s departure, the President was left with little choice but to resign (years of bottled-up resentment at the extended Suharto clan’s general freeloading and wholesale corruption also played its part in this scenario). Suharto’s deputy, Jusuf Habibie, took over until presidential elections were held under new rules in November 1999; national assembly elections were held five months earlier, in June. These saw Golkar pushed into second place by the principal opposition party, the Partai Demokrasi Indonesia Perjuangan (PDIP, the Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle) headed by the daughter of former President Sukarno, Megawati Sukarnoputri. Sukarnoputri was expected to win the November presidential poll. However, she suffered from a lack of support in crucial parts of the new electoral college which now selects the president. Her opponents settled on the veteran cleric Abdurrahman Wahid, leader of the third-largest party in the assembly, the Partai Kebangkitan Bangsa (PKB, National Awakening Party). He garnered sufficient support to defeat Sukarnoputri in the electoral college. Sukarnoputri secured the vice-presidency. It was not a good choice. In his first 12 months in office, apparently stricken by inertia and indecisiveness, Wahid proved incapable of tackling the mess left behind by Suharto. In April 2001, Wahid himself was impeached for alleged corruption – a matter of a few million dollars – and by July had been forced out of office. As Vice President, Sukarnoputri took over. Sukarnoputri faced a huge task. Indonesia’s economic recovery has been stalled by an increasingly acrimonious confrontation with parliament which has stalled the implementation of key policies, as well as disagreements over the IMF rescue package (see Economy section) and international concern about the Wahid government’s policies (or lack of them). The corruption that typified the Suharto regime continues much as before, despite the implication and arraignment of a series of leading political figures. Indonesia’s economic difficulties are also undermining the Government’s efforts to hold the fractious nation together. Militant Islam is making its presence felt throughout the archipelago which, in addition to a variety of ethnic and inter-communal conflicts, is threatening to tear it apart. However, the main regional problem, that of East Timor, has been resolved. Formerly a Portuguese colony, East Timor was under Indonesian military occupation between 1974 and 1999. The territory is now the world’s newest independent state (see East Timor section). Elsewhere, however, the picture is bleak. In Aceh, in northern Sumatra, Muslim guerrillas of the Free Aceh Movement have been fighting for independence for over a decade. There are some indications that they may accept limited autonomy, but negotiations with the Government have already broken down several times. There is also an active independence movement in Irina Jaya, the Indonesian province which shares an island with the independent state of Papua New Guinea. The Moluccan Islands (the so-called ‘Spice Islands’) are one of the few parts of Indonesia with a majority Christian population: since the beginning of 1999, they have been engaged in an increasingly violent struggle with Muslim militants which has so far claimed over 5000 lives. Armed confrontations between Muslims and Christians have also taken place in central Sulawesi. An ethnic conflict broke out in late 1999 between the indigenous Dayak people of Kalimantan province (in central Borneo) and migrants from Madura (near Java). The Madurans had been despatched to Kalimantan to increase the overall population, in part of an occasional Suharto government policy of ‘demographic engineering’ designed to homogenise the disparate Indonesian population). With these conflicts, let alone Indonesia’s other difficulties, Sukarnoputri has had her hands full. However, her broadly conservative, nationalist stance has guaranteed the support of the army which, after a period maintaining a low profile, is steadily reasserting its political influence. Government: The 1000-member People’s Consultative Assembly is the country’s highest political institution. It agrees the broad outlines of state policy and selects the President and Vice-President. Its membership comprises all the members of the National Assembly (see below), representatives of the armed forces, the country’s main political organisations, and delegates from the regions. The President, who serves a five-year term, holds executive power. The Parliament, the Dewan Perwakilan Rakyat (People’s Representative Assembly), has 500 members. Of these, 462 are directly elected by proportional representation, while the other 38 are appointed as representatives of the army and security forces. Members of the Assembly serve a five-year term. Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.