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Food & Drink: The unforgettable aroma of India is not just the heavy scent of jasmine and roses on the warm air. It is also the fragrance of spices so important to Indian cooking – especially to preparing curry. The word ‘curry’ is an English derivative of kari, meaning spice sauce, but curry does not, in India, come as a powder. It is the subtle and delicate blending of spices such as turmeric, cardamom, ginger, coriander, nutmeg and poppy seed. Like an artist’s palette of oil paints, the Indian cook has some 25 spices (freshly ground as required) with which to mix the recognised combinations or masalas. Many of these spices are also noted for their medicinal properties and, like the basic ingredients, vary from region to region. Although not all Hindus are vegetarians, vegetable dishes are more common than in Europe, particularly in southern India. Broadly speaking, meat dishes are more common in the north, notably, Rogan Josh (curried lamb), Gushtaba (spicy meat balls in yoghurt) and the delicious Biryani (chicken or lamb in orange-flavoured rice, sprinkled with sugar and rose water). Mughlai cuisine is rich, creamy, deliciously spiced and liberally sprinkled with nuts and saffron. The ever-popular Tandoori cooking (chicken, meat or fish marinated in herbs and baked in a clay oven) and kebabs are also northern cuisine. In the south, curries are mainly vegetable and inclined to be hotter. Specialities to look out for are Bhujia (vegetable curry), Dosa, Idli and Samba (rice pancakes, dumplings with pickles, and vegetable and lentil curry), and Raitas (yoghurt with grated cucumber and mint). Coconut is a major ingredient of southern Indian cooking. On the west coast there is a wide choice of fish and shellfish: Mumbai duck (curried or fried bombloe fish) and pomfret (Indian salmon) are just two. Another speciality is the Parsi Dhan Sak (lamb or chicken cooked with curried lentils) and Vindaloo. Fish is also a feature of Bengali cooking as in Dahi Maach (curried fish in yoghurt flavoured with turmeric and ginger) and Malai (curried prawn with coconut). One regional distinction is that, whereas in the south rice is the staple food, in the north this is supplemented and sometimes substituted by a wide range of flat breads, such as Pooris, Chapatis and Nan. Common throughout India is Dal (crushed lentil soup with various additional vegetables), and Dahi, the curd or yoghurt which accompanies the curry. Besides being tasty, it is a good ‘cooler’; more effective than liquids when things get too hot.
Sweets are principally milk-based puddings, pastries and pancakes. Available throughout India is Kulfi, the Indian ice cream, Rasgullas (cream cheese balls flavoured with rose water), Gulab Jamuns (flour, yoghurt and ground almonds), and Jalebi (pancakes in syrup). Besides a splendid choice of sweets and sweetmeats, there is an abundance of fruit, both tropical – mangoes, pomegranates and melons – and temperate – apricots, apples and strawberries. Western confectionery is available in major centres. It is common to finish the meal by chewing Pan as a digestive. Pan is a betel leaf in which are wrapped spices such as aniseed and cardamom.
Besides the main dishes, there are also countless irresistible snacks available on every street corner, such as Samosa, Fritters, Dosa and Vada. For the more conservative visitor, Western cooking can always be found. Indeed, the best styles of cooking from throughout the world can be experienced in the major centres in India.
Tea (or chai) is India’s favourite drink and many of the varieties are enjoyed throughout the world. It will often come ready-brewed with milk and sugar unless ‘tray tea’ is specified. Coffee is increasingly popular. Nimbu Pani (lemon drink), Lassi (iced buttermilk) and coconut milk straight from the nut are cool and refreshing. Soft drinks (usually sweet) and bottled water are widely available, as are Western alcoholic drinks. There is a huge variety of excellent Indian beer. There is also good Indian-made gin, rum, brandy and wine. Bottled water, essential for visitors, is sold everywhere in India, but make sure the bottles are properly sealed.
Restaurants have table service and, depending on area and establishment, will serve alcohol with meals. Most Western-style hotels have licensed bars. Visitors will be issued All India Liquor Permits on request by Indian Embassies/High Commissions, Missions or Tourist Offices. Various states impose prohibition but this may change; check with the Tourist Office for up-to-date information. In almost all big cities in India certain days in the week are observed as dry days when the sale of liquor is not permitted. Tourists may check with the nearest local tourist office for the prohibition laws/rules prevailing in any given state where they happen to be travelling or intend to travel.
Nightlife: India has generally little nightlife as the term is understood in the West, although in major cities a few Western-style shows, clubs and discos are being developed. In most places the main attraction will be cultural shows featuring performances of Indian dance and music. The Indian film industry is the largest in the world, now producing three times as many full-length feature films as the USA. Mumbai and Kolkata (Calcutta) are the country’s two ‘Hollywoods’. Almost every large town will have a cinema, some of which will show films in English. Music and dancing are an important part of Indian cinema, combining with many other influences to produce a rich variety of film art. Larger cities may have theatres staging productions of English-language plays.
Shopping: Indian crafts have been perfected over the centuries, from traditions and techniques passed on from generation to generation. Each region has its own specialities, each town its own local craftspeople and its own particular skills. Silks, spices, jewellery and many other Indian products have long been acclaimed and are widely sought after; merchants would travel thousands of miles, enduring the hardships and privations of the long journey, in order to make their purchases. Nowadays, the marketplaces of the subcontinent are only eight hours away, and for fabrics, silverware, carpets, leatherwork and antiques, India is a shopper’s paradise. Bargaining is expected, and the visitor can check for reasonable prices at state-run emporia. Fabrics: One of India’s main industries is textiles; its silks, cottons, and wools rank amongst the best in the world. Of the silks, the brocades from Varanasi are among the most famous; other major centres include Patna, Murshidabad, Kanchipuram and Surat. Rajasthan cotton with its distinctive ‘tie and dye’ design is usually brilliantly colourful, while Chennai cotton is known for its attractive ‘bleeding’ effect after a few washes. Throughout the country may be found the himroo cloth, a mixture of silk and cotton, often decorated with patterns. Kashmir sells beautiful woollens, particularly shawls. Carpets: India has one of the world’s largest carpet industries, and many examples of this ancient and beautiful craft can be seen in museums throughout the world. Each region will have its own speciality; one such are the distinctive, brightly coloured Tibetan rugs, available mainly in Darjeeling. Clothes: Clothes are cheap, and can be quickly tailor-made in some shops. Cloth includes silks, cottons, himroos, brocades, chiffons and chingnons. Jewellery: This is traditionally heavy and elaborate. Indian silverwork is world-famous. Gems include diamonds, lapis lazuli, Indian star rubies, star sapphires, moonstones and aquamarines. Hyderabad is a leading pearl centre. Handicrafts and leatherwork: Each area has its speciality; the range includes bronzes, brasswork (often inlaid with silver), canework and pottery. Woven rugs and papier mâché (some decorated in gold leaf) are a characteristic Kashmir product. Inlaid marble and alabaster are specialities of Agra. Rajasthan is known for its colourful fabrics and silks. Leatherwork includes open Indian sandals and slippers. Woodwork: Sandalwood carvings from Karnataka, rosewood from Kerala and Chennai. Other goods: Pickles, spices, Indian tea, perfumes, soap, handmade paper, Orissan playing cards and musical instruments. Shopping hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1800 in most large stores.
Note: There is a veto on the export of antiques, art objects over 100 years old, animal skins and objects made from skins.
Special Events: For further information, contact the Government of India Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses). Below is a selection from the hundreds of Indian festivals celebrated throughout 2003:
Jan 4-7 Pondicherry Yoga Festival, Pondicherry. Jan 5-20 Dalai Lama’s Kalachakra Intitiation (religious ceremony), Bodh Gaya. Jan 14 International Kite Festival, Jaipur and Ahmedabad. Jan 14-17 Pongal Festival (harvest festival), Tamil Nadu. Jan 16 Jallikattu (daredevil stunts are performed), Alanganallur. Jan 17-18 Bikaner Camel Festival, Bikaner. Feb 9-12 Goa Carnival, Goa. Feb 14-16 Desert Festival, Jaisalmer. Feb 18-27 Taj Mahotsava (arts, crafts, music and cuisine), Agra. Feb 25-Mar 2 Khajuraho Dance Festival, Khajuraho. Mar 1 Maha Shivrati, temples of Shiva nationwide. Mar 4-10 International Yoga Week, Rishikosh. Mar 17 Elephant Festival, Jaipur. Mar 18 Holi (Festival of Colour), nationwide and particularly in Jaipur. Mar 19 Holla Mohalla (ancient Sikh festival), all over the Punjab. Apr 15-16 Gangaur (spring festival in honour of the goddess Gauri), Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur Bikaner and Nathdwara. Apr 21 Ramnavami (anniversary of Lord Rama’s birth), nationwide. Apr 24-25 Thrissur Pooram (cultural festival), Thrissur. Apr 25 Mahavir Jayanti Festival (Jain festival), Mumbai. May 1 Maharashtra Day, Mumbai. May 1-3 Moatsu Festival, Chuchuyimlang. May 1-5 Sankat Mochan Music Festival, Varanasi. May 1-31 Mumbai Mango Madness, Mumbai. May 25 Eid E Mouloud (Musilim festival), nationwide. May 26 Banganga Fair, Jaipur; Buddha Purnima (celebration of the birthy of Lord Buddha), nationwide. Jun 1-3 Summer Festival, Mount Abu. Jun 20-21 Hemis Festival, Leh. Jul 6 Birthday of the Dalai Lama, Dharamsala. Jul 12 Rath Yatra, (Hindu festvial and procession), Puri. Jul 29 Nag Panchami (Snake Day), Mumbai. Aug 3 Narali Purnima (Coconut Day), Maharashtra. Aug 9 Kranti Divas (Freedom Day), Mumbai. Aug 11-13 Sri Aurobindo Ashram Annual Conference, Pondicherry. Aug 22 Raksha Bandhan (festival of brothers and sisters), Mumbai. Aug 22-1 Sep Gay Mumba’s Tribute to Ganesh (gay festival), Mumbai. Aug 22-Sep 21 Gogamedi Fair, Gogamedi. Aug 30 Krishna Janmashtami (celebration of Krishna's Birthday), nationwide. Sep 1-3 Tarnetar Fair, Temple of Shiva in Gujarat. Sep 8-14 Onam Festival, Trichur, Cheruthurthy, Aranmulai and Kottayam. Sep 10 Ganesh Chaturthi (festival of the elephant God Ganesh), nationwide. Oct 7-15 Navarati (Hindu festival of dancing), Mumbai. Oct 26-27 Dussehra (Hindu festvial), nationwide. Nov 4 Deepvali (Hindu festival of lights), nationwide. Nov 15-20 Ganga Mahotsava (washing in the Ganges River), Varanasi. Nov 16-19 Pushkar Camel Fair, Ajmer (Pushkar). Nov 23 Sai Baba’s Birthday, Puttaparthi. Dec 24-Jan 3 2004 Christmas Parties (beach parties), Goa.
Note: Besides the above festivals there are hundreds of festivals and fairs which are of regional significance, celebrated with equal pomp and colour. The most authentic of these are the following: The Temple Festivals in southern India, a list of which is often available at Government of India Tourist Offices. Festivals at Ladakh in Kashmir. Festivals in Rajasthan; a visitor will be unlucky to visit Rajasthan at a time when a festival of some kind is not either in progress or about to take place. The visitor may also be lucky enough to witness dancing at a village festival or a private wedding.
Social Conventions: The Indian Hindu greeting is to fold the hands and tilt the head forward to namaste. Indian women prefer not to shake hands. All visitors are asked to remove footwear when entering places of religious worship. The majority of Indians remove their footwear when entering their houses. Because of strict religious and social customs, visitors must show particular respect when visiting someone’s home. Many Hindus are vegetarian and many, especially women, do not drink alcohol. Sikhs and Parsees do not smoke. Small gifts are acceptable as tokens of gratitude for hospitality. Women are expected to dress modestly. Short skirts and tight or revealing clothing should not be worn, even on beaches. Businesspeople are not expected to dress formally except for meetings and social functions. English-speaking guides are available at fixed charges at all important tourist centres. Guides speaking French, Italian, Spanish, German, Russian or Japanese are available in some cities. Consult the nearest Government of India Tourist Office. Unapproved guides are not permitted to enter protected monuments. Tourists are advised to ask for guides with certificates from the Ministry of Tourism or India Tourism (see Contact Addresses section). Photography: Formalities mainly concern protected monuments and the wildlife sanctuaries. Special permission of the Archaeological Survey of India, New Delhi, is necessary for the use of tripod and artificial light to photograph monuments. Photographs of the wildlife sanctuaries are allowed on payment of a prescribed fee which varies. Contact the nearest Government of India Tourist Office. Tipping: Taxis and restaurants do not expect to be tipped however hotel and airport porters should be tipped around Rs20, and guides and drivers Rs100 per day where service is not included.
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