Israel Overview Country Overview Israel is on the eastern Mediterranean, bordered by Lebanon, Syria, Jordan and Egypt. The Great Rift Valley begins beyond the source of the River Jordan and extends south through the Dead Sea, into the Red Sea. For many, Israel is the Holy Land. Attractions include the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem (the Holy City, the capital and cradle of Judaism, Christianity and Islam). Tel Aviv is an exciting city offering culture and sandy beaches. The Israeli Philharmonic Orchestra draws audiences from all over the world. Haifa is Israel's leading seaport. As an industrial town and ancient fortress, it is a starting point for visits to Galilee to see the Sea of Galilee, Nazareth and the Mount of Beatitudes. The Dead Sea is an inland lake lying in the lower Jordan Valley, flanked by the Judean and Moab Mountains. Its minerals and high salt content are renowned for their health-giving properties. Israeli cuisine is essentially a combination of Oriental and Western cuisine. Folklore and dance shows are performed for visitors everywhere. General Information Area: 22,145 sq km (8550 sq miles; includes East Jerusalem and the Golan sub-district). Population: 6,275,400 (official estimate 2000). Population Density: 283.4 per sq km. Capital: Jerusalem. Population: (including East Jerusalem) 633,700 (1998). The Israeli government has designated Jerusalem as the capital, although this is not recognised by the UN, and most foreign embassies are based in Tel Aviv. GEOGRAPHY: Israel is on the eastern Mediterranean, bordered by Lebanon and Syria to the north, Jordan to the east, and Egypt to the south. The autonomous Palestinian Authority Region lies mostly on the west bank of the River Jordan. Part of the Gaza strip, in the south of the country, is also administered by the Palestinians. The country stretches southwards through the Negev Desert to Eilat, a resort town on the Red Sea. The fertile Plain of Sharon runs along the coast, while inland, parallel to the coast, is a range of hills and uplands with fertile valleys to the west and arid desert to the east. The Great Rift Valley begins beyond the sources of the River Jordan and extends south through the Dead Sea (the lowest point in the world), into the Red Sea, continuing on into Eastern Africa. Government: Republic. The state of Israel was founded in 1948. Head of State: Moshe Katsav since 2000. Head of Government: Prime Minister Ariel Sharon since 2001. Language: Hebrew is the official language. Arabic is spoken by around 15 per cent of the population. English is spoken in most places and other languages, including Russian, Romanian, French, Spanish, German, Yiddish, Polish and Hungarian are widely used. Religion: Eighty-one per cent Jewish, 14 per cent Muslim, with Christian, Druze and other minorities. Time: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from March to September). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Three-pin plugs are standard; if needed, adaptors can be purchased in Israel. Communications:   Telephone Full IDD service. Country code: 972. Outgoing international code: 00. Local telephone directories are in Hebrew, but there is a special English-language version for tourists. Mobile telephone GSM 1800 and 900 network operated by Partner Communications (website: www.orange.co.il) and Cellcom (website: www.cellcom.co.il) provide coverage practically all over the country, including over parts of the sea. Visitors should note that it is illegal to drive whilst holding a mobile telephone. Fax This service is widely available. Internet ISPs include Internet Gold (website: http://zahav.msn.co.il) and PalNet (website: www.palnet.com). There are many Internet cafes. Telegram Facilities are available to guests in most deluxe hotels in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, and in main post offices. Post Airmail to Europe takes up to a week. There are Poste Restante facilities in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. Post office hours may vary but are generally: Sun-Tues and Thurs 0800-1200 and 1530-1830, Wed 0800-1330 and Fri 0800-1200. All post offices are closed on Shabbat (Saturday) and holy days, although central telegraph offices are open throughout the year. Press The main dailies are Yedioth Aharonoth, Ma’ariv and Ha’aretz. Newspapers are printed in a variety of languages, including English. Political and religious affiliations are common. The English-language daily is the Jerusalem Post. The Jerusalem Post International Edition is published weekly and goes out to 95 countries. BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice): MHz 15.58 11.76 9.410 1.413 Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov): MHz 15.21 11.82 9.760 1.197 Passport/Visa   Passport Required? Visa Required? Return Ticket Required? British Yes 1 Yes Australian Yes No Yes Canadian Yes No Yes USA Yes No Yes OtherEU Yes 1 Yes Japanese Yes No Yes PASSPORTS: Passport valid for a minimum of six months beyond intended date of arrival required by all. Note: (a) Persons wishing to proceed to an Arab country other than Egypt or Jordan after visiting Israel should ensure their passport does not contain an Israeli visa or stamp. However, persons permitted to stay in Israel for a period of three months or more will be required to have an extension stamped in their passport. (b) Former nationals of Israel holding a foreign passport must have written proof of having given up Israeli identity, otherwise, they may be required to obtain a new Israeli passport or renew their original one. VISAS: All nationals require a stamp on arrival. Visas are required by all except the following: (a) 1. nationals of all EU countries (except nationals of Germany if born before 1 January, 1928); (b) nationals of Argentina, Bahamas, Barbados, Bolivia, Brazil, Central African Republic, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, Fiji, Gibraltar, Guatemala, Haiti, Hong Kong (SAR), Hungary, Iceland, Jamaica, Korea (Rep), Latvia, Lesotho, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Malawi, Malta, Mauritius, Mexico, Monaco, New Zealand, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, Philippines, Poland, St Kitts & Nevis, San Marino, Slovak Republic, Slovenia, South Africa, Surinam, Swaziland, Switzerland, Trinidad & Tobago, Uruguay and Vanuatu; (c) transit passengers continuing their journey within 24 hours by the same or first connecting flight provided holding valid onward or return documentation and not leaving the airport. Note: It is advisable to check with nearest Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy) for visa requirements before travelling to Israel as requirements may vary for some nationals. Types of visa: Tourist/Entry: £11 (cash only, or £12 postal order). These fees are for UK nationals; prices vary according to nationality. There are no fees for nationals of Bulgaria and Turkey. Cruise ship passengers visiting Israel will be issued Landing Cards, allowing them to remain in the country for as long as the ship is in port. No visa applications are required. Validity: Two months. Visas may be extended (for a nominal fee) at offices of the Ministry of the Interior in the following locations: Afula, Akko (Acre), Ashqelon, Be’ersheba, Eilat, Hadera, Haifa, Herzliya, Holon, Jerusalem, Nazareth, Netanya, Petah Tiqva, Ramat Gan, Ramla, Rehovot, Safed, Tel Aviv and Tiberias. Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section for details. Application requirements: (a) Application form. (b) One passport-size photo. (c) Return ticket. (d) A copy of tenancy agreement or mortgage arrangements. (e) Bank statement for last three months. (f) Self-addressed envelope. (g) Invitation from company/friends/contact in Israel or letter from employer/university specifying period of time you have worked with them and that you will be returning after trip or letter from travel agent confirming reservation of return ticket, hotel and medical insurance. Working days required: Depends on nationality. Some visas will require authorisation from Israel and so it is advisable to contact the Embassy before booking travel tickets. Temporary residence: Apply to the Ministry of the Interior in Israel. Note: As a concession to travellers intending to travel at a later date to countries with entry restrictions for visitors to Israel, entry stamps will, on request, be entered only on the entry form AL-17 and not on the passport. This facility is not available to those required to obtain their Israeli visas in advance. Money Currency: New Shekel (IS) = 100 agorot (singular, agora). Notes are in denominations of IS200, 100, 50, and 20. Coins are in denominations of IS10, 5 and 1, and 50 and 10 agorot. Currency exchange: Foreign currency can only be exchanged at authorised banks, hotels and bureaux de change. It is advisable to leave Israel with the minimum of Israeli currency. Payment in foreign currency exempts tourists from VAT on certain purchases and services. A maximum of US$500 worth of new shekels can be reconverted to foreign currency by travellers leaving Israel. Credit & debit cards: All major credit cards are accepted. Travellers cheques: These are widely accepted. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in US Dollars. Currency restrictions: There are no restrictions on the import of local or foreign currency. Travellers planning to export local currency should apply to a local bank before departure from Israel. The export of foreign currency is limited to the amount imported. Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the New Israel Shekel against Sterling and the US Dollar: Date May ’02 Aug ’02 Nov ’02 Feb ’03 £1.00= 7.15 7.09 7.40 7.77 $1.00= 4.90 4.66 4.68 4.88 Banking hours: Sun-Fri 0830-1200 and Sun, Tues, Thurs 1600-1800. Duty Free The following goods may be imported into Israel without incurring customs duty (alcohol and tobacco can only be imported by persons aged 17 years and over): 250 cigarettes or 250g of tobacco products; 1l of spirits and 2l of wine; 250ml of eau de cologne or perfume; gifts up to the value of US$150. Note: Firearms, animals, fresh meat, plants and seeds may not be imported without prior permission. Public Holidays Apr 17-23 2003* Pesach (Passover). May 7 Yom Ha’Atzmaut (Israel Independence Day). Jun 6 Shavu’ot (Pentecost). Sep 27-28 Rosh Hashana (New Year). Oct 6 Yom Kippur (Day of Atonement). Oct 11-17* Sukkot (Tabernacles). Oct 18 Shemini Atzeret (Celebration of Renewal and Thanksgiving). Dec 20-26 Chanukah (Feast of the Lights). Apr 6-12 2004* Pesach (Passover). Apr 26 Yom Ha’Atzmaut (Israel Independence Day). May 26 Shavu’ot (Pentecost). Sep 16-17 Rosh Hashana (New Year). Sep 25 Yom Kippur (Day of Atonement). Sep 30-Oct 6* Sukkot (Tabernacles). Oct 7 Shemini Atzeret (Celebration of Renewal and Thanksgiving). Dec 8-14 Chanukah (Feast of the Lights). Note: *Only the first and last days of Passover and Sukkot are officially recognised as national holidays, but there may be some disruption on intermediate dates; many shops and businesses may open, but close early. Jewish festivals commence on the evenings before the dates given above. The Jewish religious day is Saturday – Shabbat – and begins at nightfall on Friday until nightfall on Saturday. Most public services and shops close early on Friday as a result. Muslim and Christian holidays are also observed by the respective populations. Thus, depending on the district, the day of rest falls on Friday, Saturday or Sunday. Health   Special Precautions Certificate Required Yellow Fever No No Cholera No No Typhoid and Polio 1 N/A Malaria No N/A 1: Immunisation against typhoid and poliomyelitis is sometimes recommended. Food & drink: Mains water is normally chlorinated, and whilst relatively safe, may cause mild abdominal upsets. Bottled water is available and is advised for the first few weeks of the stay. Drinking water outside main cities and towns may be contaminated and sterilisation is advisable. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Local meat, poultry, seafood, fruit and vegetables are generally considered safe to eat. Other risks: Hepatitis A and B occur. Tick-borne relapsing fever may occur. Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix. Health care: Israel has excellent medical facilities and tourists may go to all emergency departments and first-aid centres. Health centres are marked by the red Star of David on a white background. Medical insurance is recommended. Travel - International Note: Visitors are strongly advised to seek the most up-to-date advice on border crossings before travelling. Travel to the West Bank and Gaza and the border with Lebanon is not recommended. For the latest information, contact the Israeli Tourist Office. AIR: Israel’s national airline is El Al Israel Airlines (LY). Other airlines serving Israel include British Airways, Air Canada, Air France, Continental Airlines, Iberia, KLM, Lufthansa, South African Airways and United Airlines. Approximate flight times: From London to Tel Aviv is 4 hours 30 minutes and to Eilat is 5 hours. From Los Angeles to Tel Aviv is 17 hours 35 minutes, from New York is 11 hours 55 minutes, from Singapore is 10 hours 55 minutes and from Sydney is 14 hours 35 minutes. International airports: Tel Aviv (TLV) (Ben Gurion International) is 14km (9 miles) from the city. An EGGED Bus runs every 30 minutes between 0500-2300 (travel time – 25 minutes), and United Tours shuttle bus no. 222 runs hourly 0400-0000 to Tel Aviv. There is also a taxi service (travel time – 20 minutes). A shared sherut (taxi service) is available, charging a fixed rate per passenger. The El Al airline bus goes to the airport terminal in Tel Aviv. Departure depends on El Al flights. The best way to travel to Jerusalem, which is 50km (32 miles) away, is by sherut. Airport facilities include banks (24-hour), restaurants, duty-free shops, general shops and tourist information (24-hour). Eilat Central Airport (ETH) is 20 minutes from the city. The airport bus departs every 15 minutes, and taxis are available to the city (travel time – 15 minutes). Airport facilities include a duty-free shop, light refreshments and a souvenir shop. Departure tax: None. SEA: Principal international passenger ports are Haifa and Ashdod. Foreign yachts sailing to Israel may use these ports of entry as well as Eilat and the marinas of Herzliya, Tel-Aviv and Ashkelon. There are regular sailings of car/passenger ferries from Greece (Piraeus) and Cyprus to Haifa. Cruise lines run to Haifa and Ashdod from Venice and other Mediterranean ports. ROAD: On the whole, road access to Israel is somewhat limited. There are two crossing points from Egypt into Israel. Travellers are permitted to cross the border on foot, by bus or in privately owned cars only; taxis and hired cars may not cross. Rafiah (Rafah), the main point of entry, is located some 50km (31 miles) southwest of Ashqelon (open 0900-1700). Four bus companies maintain services between Cairo and Tel Aviv and Jerusalem via Rafiah. EGGED Bus no. 362 leaves Tel Aviv for the Rafiah terminal daily and Rafiah for Tel Aviv at Taba, just south of Eilat, is open 24 hours a day. A regular bus service is available between Taba, Santa Katerina (Sinai) and Cairo. It is possible to enter Jordan via the Allenby Bridge near Jericho, about 40km (25 miles) from Jerusalem. The Allenby Bridge border opening hours are Sun-Thurs 0800-0000, Fri 0800-1500. EGGED buses and taxi service are also available to the bridge. At present, every tourist passing through here must obtain an entry visa to and an exit visa from Jordan. Exit fees are only payable on leaving for Jordan. Nationals of countries who are required to obtain an Israeli visa in advance should do so before visiting Jordan, as such visas cannot be obtained at the Allenby Bridge. The Arava Checkpoint crossing is situated 4km (3 miles) north of Eilat. It is possible to cross the border in both directions. Nationals should check whether visas are required for this crossing with their local embassy. The opening hours for the Arava border checkpoint are Sun-Thurs 0630-2230, Fri-Sat 0800-2000 (closed on Yom Kippur and the Muslim festival of Eid al-Adha). The Jordan River Crossing (Sheikh Hussein Bridge) can be crossed by holders of UK passports valid for at least six months from the date of entry and persons with dual nationality as individuals or in groups. Entry visas for Jordan or Israel can either be organised through travel agents who will make the necessary arrangements or can be provided on arrival for all those who have organised pre-arranged visas (except for Israeli passport holders who must make arrangements through travel agents). Travel agents are requested to co-ordinate the arrival time of buses with the management of the crossing point. All UN cars (on official business or not) and vehicles with foreign registration will be permitted to cross freely without paying any fees; however, Israeli cars with diplomatic plates will not be permitted to cross the border. Transfer of passengers between the Israeli and Jordanian checkpoints will be carried out by shuttle service. Transfers on foot will not be permitted. The Jordan River (Sheikh Hussein) border crossing hours are Sun-Thurs 0630-2200, Fri-Sat 0800-2000 (closed on Yom Kippur and the Jordanian festival on the first day of the Hijirah Calendar). There is no access to Syria and Lebanon. Mobile telephones are not allowed on buses crossing the border. Travel - Internal AIR: A comprehensive service linking Tel Aviv with Eilat and all major cities is run by Arkia/Israel Inland Airways (IZ) and by Israir (6H). SEA/LAKE: Ferries run across the Lake Tiberias (Sea of Galilee) from Tiberias on the west side to Ein Gev kibbutz on the eastern shore. Coastal ferries serve all ports. For details contact local port authorities. RAIL: Israel Railways (website: www.isarail.org.il) provides regular services between Tel Aviv and Herzliya, Netanya, Hadera, Haifa, Akko (Acre) and Nahariya, as well as a daily train between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, which follows a particularly scenic route. Reserved seats may be ordered in advance. There is no railway service on Shabbat (Saturday) and major holidays. ROAD: Traffic drives on the right. An excellent system of roads connects all towns. Distances by road from Jerusalem to other cities are as follows: Tel Aviv 62km (39 miles), Tiberias 157km (97 miles), Eilat 312km (194 miles), Netanya 93km (58 miles), Dead Sea 104km (65 miles), Zefat 192km (120 miles) and Haifa 159km (99 miles). Bus: Two national bus systems, run by the EGGED and DAN cooperatives, provide extensive services. The service is fast and efficient as well as cheap. With a few exceptions, services are suspended on religious holidays, and between sunset on Friday and sunset on Saturday (Shabbat). Taxi: Services are either run by companies or by individuals. There are both shared taxis (sheruts) and ordinary taxis. Taxi drivers are required by law to operate a meter and are recommended for short journeys only. Car hire: Available in major cities. Hire fees are not cheap. Documentation: Full driving licence and insurance are required. An International Driving Permit is recommended. URBAN: DAN and EGGED provide good local bus services in the main towns. Taxis are available. Accommodation From small, simple guest-houses to deluxe hotels, Israel offers a wide choice and high standards of accommodation. For a holiday with a difference, unique to Israel, there are kibbutz country inns in all parts of the country where one can find relaxed informality in delightful rural surroundings. Kibbutz Fly-Drive holidays are very popular and so are discovery tours by air-conditioned coach, staying at different hotels and kibbutzim to see the whole country. HOTELS: There are approximately 300 hotels listed for visitors by the Ministry of Tourism. Prices vary according to season and region. It is best to book months in advance for Israel’s high season (usually July-August, though this varies according to the region) and for religious holiday seasons. 315 hotels are members of the Israel Hotel Association, PO Box 50066, 29 Ha’mered Street, Tel Aviv (tel: (3) 517 0131; fax: (3) 510 0197; e-mail: infotel@israelhotels.org.il; website: www.israelhotels.org.il). HOLIDAY/RECREATION VILLAGES: Located on the Mediterranean or the Red Sea Gulf, these villages provide accommodation usually in the form of small two-bed cabins and bungalows. The standard fittings often include full air-conditioning and facilities. Most are only open between April and October and the emphasis is on casual living. SELF-CATERING: Apartments and individual rooms are available on a rental basis throughout the country. KIBBUTZ GUEST-HOUSES: All are clean and comfortable with modern dining rooms. Most have swimming pools (though it is wise to check that this facility is open to visitors) and provide a valuable insight into the style and aims of kibbutz life. Approximately 130 out of the 280 kibbutzim have guest-houses and each is located in a rural or scenic part of the country and is usually open all year. Further information is available from the Israel Government Tourist Office. CHRISTIAN HOSPICES: Throughout the country some 30 Christian hospices (operated by a variety of denominations) provide rooms and board at low rates. Although preference is given to pilgrimage groups, most will accommodate general tourists. They vary greatly in size and standards but all offer tourists basic accommodation in situations where hotels are full. Details are available from the Israel Government Tourist Office. CAMPING/CARAVANNING: The fine climate means Israel is a good country for camping, with campsites providing a touring base for each region. They offer full sanitary facilities, electric current, a restaurant and/or store, telephone, postal services, first-aid facilities, shaded picnic and campfire areas and day and night watchmen. They can be reached by bus, but all are open to cars and caravans. Most have tents and cabins, as well as a wide range of equipment for hire. All sites have swimming facilities either on-site or within easy reach. Hitchhiking is not recommended. YOUTH HOSTELS: Hostels in Israel can be dormitory, family bungalows, guest house standard rooms, huts or modern cubicles and they are scattered all over the country in both urban and rural areas. For further details, write to the IYHA, PO Box 6001, 1 Sazar Street, Jerusalem 91060 (tel: (2) 655 8400; fax: (2) 655 8401; e-mail: iyha@iyha.org.il; website: www.youth-hostels.org.il). Information is also available from the Israel Government Tourist Office. Introduction Note: Visitors should check official government advice before travelling to the Palestinian National Authority Region or to Jerusalem, as these areas may be dangerous owing to political tension. Israel is a remarkable, fascinating and controversial country. For many it is, above all, the Holy Land. Religious attractions include the walk along the Via Dolorosa to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem (the Holy City and cradle of Judaism, Christianity and Islam); the Church of the Annunciation in Nazareth; the serenity of Galilee and the ride across the River Jordan, the river in which Jesus was baptised. JERUSALEM: For Jews, Christians and Muslims, this is one of the most revered cities on earth. Attractions range from religious emblems and relics of antiquity to modern items of interest. Religious tours are available from West Jerusalem and include Mount Zion and the Tomb of David. Other sites are the Tomb of Judges; Yad Vashem, the memorial to the six million Jews who died in the Holocaust, and Mea Shearim (‘the hundred gates’). In East Jerusalem visitors may follow the Way of the Cross, enter the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, see the Wailing Wall, the Dome of the Rock and the Jaffa and Damascus gates. The Israel Museum in Jerusalem houses the Dead Sea Scrolls and is worth visiting. Excursions: Three important excursions are to the Hill of Rachel, En Karem and Abu Ghush. TEL AVIV: An exciting city offering commerce, culture, nightlife and sandy beaches. The Israeli Philharmonic Orchestra draws audiences from all over the world. The Museum of the Diaspora is internationally famous. The bustling Carmel Market is a popular place to visit. In 1950, Jaffa was united with Tel Aviv; situated a mile from the city, this is one of the oldest ports in the world. It has archaeological finds reaching back to the third century BC, a beach, a lively nightlife in Old Jaffa and a flea market. THE NEGEV: This area, once largely desert, is now being irrigated and farmed in a settlement movement started by, amongst others, David Ben Gurion. Beersheba and Dimona are both of interest, but Eilat, in particular, is the place for tourists. Eilat is the best-equipped seaside resort in the Middle East, and a paradise for underwater enthusiasts. There are several attractive places nearby; these include the Timna Valley National Park (near Eilat). GALILEE AND THE NORTH: Places of interest are Lake Tiberias (the Sea of Galilee) itself, Nazareth, the Bet She’arim Catacombs, Megiddo, Tiberias and the Mount of Beatitudes. The Tourist Office, together with a consortium of interested parties, is actively promoting Galilee as a tourist destination. Emphasis is being placed on the environment, sports, culture, history and health, with spa resorts (which have been used since Roman times) especially featured. The Museum of Mediterranean Archaeology celebrates many finds in the region. Haifa, on the coast and Israel’s leading seaport, is both an industrial town and an ancient fortress. Further south, notable attractions include the artists' colony of En Hod and the Roman ruins at Cesarea. THE DEAD SEA: 60km (41 miles) long and 17km (11 miles) wide, the Dead Sea is an inland lake lying 400m (1320ft) below sea level in the lower part of the Jordan Valley, flanked by the Judean Mountains to the west and the Moab Mountains to the east. It has more minerals and salt than any other body of water in the world and is renowned for its rejuvenating and health-giving properties. There are a number of health spas and resorts in the area. A range of cosmetic and therapeutic products, containing Dead Sea minerals, is available worldwide. Spas are found in the Dead Sea region offering a variety of treatments, including mud packs, salt massages and salt water pools. Masada (Mezada), on the left bank of the Dead Sea, is where the once luxurious palace of King Herod still stands (and site of the famous seige), perched on a clifftop. It can be reached by cable car or a winding footpath and there is a breathtaking view of the Dead Sea and the pink mountains of Moab from here. Other interesting sights around the Dead Sea include Mount Sodom, a 13km- (8 mile-) long mountain range made up of pure salt which has many caves with extraordinary hanging salt formations, and Qumran, where the Dead Sea Scrolls, written by Essene scribes, were discovered in ancient pottery jars. The discovery of the Scrolls was made in 1947 by an Arab shepherd looking for a stray goat. Seven scrolls were found, the most famous being the scroll of Isaiah, which is one foot wide and 24 feet long. Excavations at the site found more than 900 pieces of scrolls in more than 30 caves. Except for two scrolls written on copper, all the scrolls were written on leather and papyrus. THE PALESTINE NATIONAL AUTHORITY REGION: For further information about the Palestinian National Authority Region, contact the Palestinian Ministry of Tourism (see Contact Addresses section). Bethlehem: The city lies 750m (2500ft) above sea level, on the ancient caravan route, 10km (6.2 miles) south of Jerusalem. Bethlehem is, of course, most famous for being the birthplace of Christ, although it is also well known for olive wood carving and mother-of-pearl jewellery, which, today, has developed into a modern industry. Jericho: One of the prime sites of interest in the region for historians and visitors alike is the ancient town of Jericho, which dates back more than 10,000 years and lies 260m (853ft) below sea level, 36km (22.5 miles) east of Jerusalem. Known as the ‘City of Palms’, Jericho is one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited sites. The walls and towers of Jericho are 4000 years older than the pyramids of Egypt, and the domestication of animals took place 1000 years earlier in Jericho than in Mesopotamia and Egypt. Other sites worth visiting in the area include Deir Quruntal and Mt Temptation, where Jesus spent forty days and nights fasting and meditating and where a monastery was later built. Deir Quruntal can be reached on a steep and fairly difficult path. Elsewhere: The city of Hebron lies in the mountainous region south of Jerusalem, at an altitude of 1000m (3280ft). Hebron is an unspoiled town, with many narrow and winding streets, flat-roofed stone houses and old bazaars. Other places worth visiting in the area include Nablus, the major commercial, industrial and agricultural centre in the northern West Bank and renowned for olive oil soap, wrought gold and Kenafa, a tasty oriental pastry; Rammallah, whose cool climate makes it a popular summer resort, with many restaurants and an international feel; Samaria and Gaza, located on the western Mediterranean coast, 32km (22.4 miles) north of the Egyptian border, and, owing to its strategic location, a long-established economic regional centre for trade in citrus fruits and other goods. Sport & Activities Watersports: Swimming, surfing, sailing, water-skiing, yachting and fishing are all available. There are marinas in Akko, Eilat, Jaffa and Tel Aviv. All the large hotels have swimming pools. Skindiving and aqualung diving are especially popular in Eilat on the Red Sea coast with an excellent underwater observatory descending to the floor of the coral reef near the town. Eilat is a particularly good destination for winter sun for visitors from Western Europe. Note: The Red Sea coastline has been designated a preservation area and any tourists found with ‘souvenirs’ such as coral will suffer severe fines from both the Israeli and Egyptian authorities. Other: To many people’s surprise there is a full skiing season at Mount Hermon, on the northern border. Among annual sports events are the Tel Aviv Marathon and the Kinereth Swimming Gala. Football and basketball are popular and many hotels have tennis courts. There is a fine 18-hole golf course at Caesarea. Horseriding is available throughout the country. There is also the opportunity to take camel-rides; contact the Israel Government Tourist Office for further details. Bicycling is also popular. There are excellent facilities at kibbutz sportsgrounds and in cities. The Israel Government Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section) can provide more information. Social Profile Food & Drink: Restaurants in Israel offer a combination of Oriental and Western cuisine, in addition to the local dishes. Some restaurants are expensive, though a high price does not necessarily mean a high standard. Table service is usual. There are many snack bars. Restaurants, bars and cafes catering to tourists usually have menus in two languages (Hebrew plus French or English). Israeli cuisine is essentially a combination of Oriental and Western cuisine, plus an additional distinct flavour brought by the many and varied nationalities which make up the Israelis. Dishes such as Hungarian goulash, Russian bortsch, Viennese schnitzel or German braten are found next to Middle Eastern items such as falafel, humus, tahini, shishlik, kebabs and Turkish coffee, as well as traditional Jewish dishes such as gefilte fish, chopped liver and chicken soup. Kosher food: The Hebrew word kosher means food conforming to Jewish religious dietary laws. Milk, cream or cheese may not be served together with meat in the same meal. Pork and shellfish are officially prohibited, but it is possible to find them on many menus in non-kosher restaurants. The wines of Israel range from light white to dry red and sweet rosé. Israeli beers are Maccabee and Gold Star. There is also a good choice of local brandies and liqueurs. Liqueurs include Hard Nut (a walnut concoction of Eliaz winery), Sabra (chocolate and orange) and Arak (an anise drink). A centre for liqueurs is the monastery at Latrun on the road between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. Nightlife: There are nightclubs and discotheques in most cities. Tel Aviv has a wealth of entertainment to divert the visitor and there are rock, jazz, folk and pop music clubs in all the main cities and resorts. Israeli folklore and dance shows can be seen everywhere, especially in the kibbutzim. The Israeli Philharmonic Orchestra can be heard at the ICC Binaynei Ha’uma Hall in Jerusalem during the winter. A summer attraction is the Israel Festival of International Music. Cinema is popular in Israel and many cinemas screen three daily shows of international and local films (all Hebrew films are subtitled in English and French). Tickets for all events and even films can be bought in advance from ticket agencies and sometimes from hotels and tourist offices. Shopping: There is a wide choice for shoppers in Israel; and in certain shops, especially in Arab markets, visitors can, and should, bargain. Tourists who buy leather goods at shops listed by the Ministry of Tourism and pay for them in foreign currency are exempt from VAT and receive a 25 per cent discount on leather goods if these are delivered to them at the port of departure. Special purchases include jewellery, diamonds and other precious stones, ceramics, embroidery, glassware, wines, religious articles and holy books. ‘Cashback’ on purchased items can be claimed from the Customs Office at the airport. Shopping hours: Sun-Fri 0800-1900; some shops close 1300-1600 and some early on Friday. Remember that the shopping facilities are both Israeli and Arabic, and are therefore governed by two different sets of opening hours and methods of business. Jewish stores observe closing time near sunset Friday evenings before Shabbat (Saturday) and Arabic stores close Friday. It takes a while to realise that Sunday is a normal working day unlike in Western countries. For shoppers, the Jewish stores are therefore open Friday, Arab markets Saturday and both are open Sunday when Christian stores close. Shops in the hotels are often open until midnight. Special Events: For a complete list of special events, contact the Israel Government Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section). The following is a selection of events taking place in Israel in 2003: Mar 17-18 Purim (Jewish festival), nationwide. May 1-2 Holocaust Martyrs and Heroes Rememberance Day, Yad Vashem, Jerusalem. May 25-Jun 13 Israel Festival (festival of music and performing arts), Jerusalem. Jun 1-8 Jerusalem Pride (gay and lesbian festival), Jerusalem. Jun 28-Jul 1 Tel Aviv Pride (gay and lesbian festival), Tel Aviv. Aug 29-31 Red Sea Jazz Festival, Tel Aviv. Oct 2-5 Israel Fringe Theatre Festival, Acre. Oct 2-8 Haifa International Theatre Festival for Children and Youth (Arab and Jewish street theatre and performances), Haifa. Oct 5-6 Yom Kippur (Day of Atonement), nationwide. Social Conventions: Israelis are usually very informal, but in keeping with European style of hospitality. Visitors should observe normal courtesies when visiting someone's home and should not be afraid to ask questions about the country as most Israelis are happy to talk about their homeland, religion and politics. Often the expression shalom (‘peace') is used for hello and goodbye. Dress is casual, but in Christian, Muslim and Jewish holy places modest attire is worn. For places such as the Wailing Wall, male visitors are given a smart cardboard yarmulke (scull cap) to respect the religious importance of the site. Business people are expected to dress smartly, while plush restaurants, nightclubs and hotel dining rooms may require guests to dress for dinner. Formal evening wear is usually specified on invitations. It is considered a violation of the Shabbat (Saturday) to smoke in certain restaurants and many hotels. There is usually a sign to remind the visitor, and to disregard this warning would be regarded as discourteous to Orthodox Jews. Tipping: Less evident than in many other countries. A 15 per cent service charge is added to restaurant, cafe and hotel bills by law. Business Profile Economy: Israel has a diverse and sophisticated manufacturing economy that in many respects, rivals that of western Europe (this much is recognised by the IMF which in 1997 reclassified Israel’s economy as ‘industrial’ rather than ‘developing’). Agriculture is relatively small – about 4.2 per cent of GDP – with citrus fruit as the main commodity and export earner. The industrial sector is concentrated on engineering, aircraft, electronics, chemicals, construction materials, textiles and food-processing. Mining is also small but set to expand through production of potash and bromine. There is a small indigenous oil industry. The infrastructure is well developed and tourism, in which there has been considerable investment, has become an important sector of the economy. Israel’s economic difficulties, which were particularly serious during the 1970s and 1980s, were largely the product of political circumstances: specifically very heavy defence expenditure (estimated at around 40 per cent of GDP) and the cost of resettling Jewish arrivals. Other important factors are a large and relatively inefficient state sector and a substantial annual aid package from the USA, estimated at around US$10 billion per year. The economy performed relatively well during the 1990s in the wake of economic reforms introduced at the beginning of the decade and including deregulation and some privatisation. In the last couple of years, the economy has gone into recession and by mid-2002, GDP was contracting by four per cent annually, but the next 12 months are expected to bring a mild recovery. Israel has free trade agreements with the EU and the USA: the latter is its largest trading partner, followed by Belgium/Luxembourg, Germany and the UK. Trade with both South Asia and the Asia-Pacific region is also growing rapidly. The areas under the control of the Palestinian Authority have not shared in Israeli prosperity; economic development under the Palestinian Authority was managed in a haphazard and often corrupt manner, especially regarding the use of foreign aid. Since the Sharon administration came to power in Israel the Palestinian areas have been effectively sealed off and placed under curfew, large areas have been completely destroyed and those remaining are barely able to function economically. Equally damaging, Palestinians with jobs in Israeli territory have been unable to pursue them. Much of the population now relies on assistance from aid organisations. Business: Business can be frustrating, as in many instances it is difficult to get a direct reply to a question. Appointments are usual, as is the use of business cards. Normal courtesies should be observed, although business meetings tend to be less formal than in Britain. Office hours: Business hours vary owing to the different religions practised. Some offices are open half day on Friday. Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Federation of Israeli Chambers of Commerce, PO Box 20027, 84 Hahashmonaim Street, Tel Aviv 67011 (tel: (3) 563 1010; fax: (3) 562 3274 or 561 9025; e-mail: chamber@chamber.org.il; website: www.chamber.org.il). Conferences/Conventions: The Ministry of Tourism brochure Israel Conventions & Congresses 1996-2000 states that ‘about 2000 years ago, some of the greatest conventions were held near Tiberias where it was recorded that 5000 were amply catered for’. Israel’s record as a contemporary international conference centre began in 1963, and the country now attracts about 150 international meetings a year with 50,000 delegates; scientific and academic meetings account for about half the meetings, though religious and sporting events are on the increase. In 1992, 55 per cent of meetings were held in Jerusalem. Apart from hotels and the convention centres in Jerusalem, Eliat and Tel Aviv, opportunities exist to hold meetings in kibbutzim. For further information, contact the International Conventions Department at the Ministry of Tourism (see Contact Addresses section); or the Jerusalem International Convention Centre (JICC), Binyaney Ha’ooma, PO Box 6001, Jerusalem 91060 (tel: (2) 655 8558; fax: (2) 538 3064; e-mail: infoicc@iccjer.co.il; website: www.iccjer.co.il). Climate Mediterranean, with a pleasant spring and autumn. Winters in the north can be cool. Rain in winter is widespread, particularly in Jerusalem. Snow is rare. Summers can be very hot, especially in the south. The Red Sea resort of Eilat has a good climate for beach holidays all the year round. Required clothing: Lightweight cottons and linens for warmer months are required. Mediumweights are recommended for winters, although on the Red Sea coast they are unlikely to be necessary during the day. History and Government History: The history of Israel may be traced back to 2000 BC, though the earliest recorded event derives from the era of Moses (around 1300 BC) when elements of the tribes of Israel escaped to Palestine from serfdom in the eastern Nile Delta. Once established there, the Jewish people maintained control of much of Palestine, despite occasional clashes with the neighbouring Assyrians and Philistines, until overrun by the Greek conqueror Alexander the Great in the fourth century BC. By AD 100 the country was under direct Roman rule. Palestine was subsequently occupied by Arabs, then retaken by the armies of the First Crusade (1096-1100). The Christians established several states, including the Kingdom of Jerusalem, which survived until the fall of Acre in 1291, although after the battle of Hattin in 1187 – in which Saladin comprehensively defeated the Crusader army – Jerusalem was no longer a permanent part of it. After 1291 the area fell under the domination of the Mamelukes and subsequently the Ottoman Empire. Meanwhile, the Jews continued to spread across Europe, North Africa and the Middle East (and later the Americas). Few countries today lack a community descended from Jewish settlers and few of those communities have not suffered some form of persecution over the centuries. The Zionist movement emerged in the 19th century with the aim of re-establishing a separate Jewish nation in Palestine, building on the common sense of identity of the scattered Jewish communities and the insecurity caused by frequent persecution. The aspirations of the Zionist movement were ultimately recognised by the British government in the Balfour Declaration of 1917, which followed Britain’s occupation of Palestine after defeating the Turks in the Middle East during World War I. The Balfour Declaration formed the basis of the 1920 mandate granted by the League of Nations, which acceded to British rule over the territory. The mandate laid the foundations of the modern Arab-Israeli conflict as the British struggled to balance their commitment to the Jews against their parallel promises to the indigenous Arab population. After World War II and the slaughter of Jews in Hitler’s concentration camps, the United Nations favoured the creation of a separate Jewish state carved out of Palestine. The Arabs refused to accept this, but the imminent expiry of the mandate and pressure, often violent, from Jewish immigrants – many of whom had moved to Palestine after the war – forced the British to withdraw. The Jewish leaders inaugurated the State of Israel in May 1948, bringing an immediate conflict with the Arab population, which escalated into full-scale war. Although neighbouring Arab states, notably Jordan, intervened on the Arab side, the Israelis took control of and held about three-quarters of Palestine. The remainder – the largely Arab-peopled area between Jerusalem and the River Jordan commonly described today as the ‘West Bank’ – was occupied by the Jordanian army. Since the Six Day War of 1967, in which Israel defeated a combined force from several Arab countries, the West Bank has been occupied by the Israelis; similar territorial losses were suffered by the Egyptians in the Sinai Peninsula and Gaza Strip, and by the Syrians in the Golan Heights. Efforts to recover these in the 1973 Yom Kippur War were repulsed by Israel. Most of the Palestinian population were now stateless refugees driven from their traditional lands. Many thousands ended up in squalid refugee camps in Lebanon. Others sought out relatives in Jordan, over half of whose population is of Palestinian descent. Others moved further afield: as with the Jews, Palestinian communities with many of the same attributes (a focus on education, business and professional skills) have grown up throughout the world. Politically, the main player in Palestinian politics since its formation in 1964 has been the Palestine Liberation Organisation (PLO), an umbrella grouping of seven main factions. The leader of the largest faction, al-Fatah, is Yasser Arafat. Known among Palestinians as ‘Abu Ammar’ (the builder), Arafat is also the long-standing chair of the PLO and, from 1994, head of the Palestinian Authority (see below). The PLO and its affiliates embarked on an international campaign designed to highlight the plight of the Palestinian peoples. This mixed orthodox military operations with high profile urban guerrilla and terrorist activities. Israel responded in kind, and the underground war between the two has been uniquely unforgiving (apart from Arafat, all the key founding members of the PLO have been assassinated). By the early 1980s, it was clear that the ‘armed struggle’ was of limited value. Moreover, the political environment was fast changing. In 1979, the largest Arab state, Egypt, signed the Camp David Accord. The Accord included not only a peace treaty but provisions for the return of occupied land to Egypt (which was effected) and for a transition to autonomous rule for West Bank Palestinians (which was never introduced). The attitude of the right-wing Israeli government of Menachem Begin (and that of Yitzhak Shamir which followed) was typified by the 1982 invasion of Lebanon. The main purpose of the invasion was to destroy the PLO infrastructure that had developed in the southern part of the country since the 1960s, as well as its headquarters in Beirut. In this it was successful, but Israel then decided to maintain an occupation zone in the southern part of the country jointly controlled by the Israeli Defence Forces (IDF) and their local proxies, the South Lebanon Army. Several indigenous guerrilla movements, notably Hezbollah, emerged and fought a highly effective campaign of attrition against the Israelis which led to Israel’s only military defeat when the IDF was forced to pull out of Lebanon in 1999. From 1987, Palestinian activists wound down the armed struggle in favour of a more generalised campaign of civil disobedience, street disturbances and strikes known under the collective rubric of al-intifada (‘uprising’). This was allied with a diplomatic offensive by the exiled PLO leadership (now based in Tunis) and endorsement of UN resolutions 242 and 338 which implicitly recognise Israel’s right to exist. The right-wing Israeli government of Yitzhak Shamir seemed reluctant to reach a settlement and such dialogue as occurred was largely futile. The 1991 war in Iraq seemed to offer an opportunity to break the impasse. The Israeli government was persuaded by the Americans to stay out of the fighting to keep the Arab members of the anti-Iraq coalition, including Saudi Arabia, Syria and Egypt, on side. But diplomatic manoeuvring after the war returned to its usual snail’s pace – in public at least. For at the same time, an exceedingly discreet diplomatic initiative brokered by the Norwegian government was making remarkable progress and had, by the end of the summer of 1993, brought an agreement between the Israelis and the PLO. The rest of the world was presented with a virtual fait accompli. The essence of the agreement, enshrined in a declaration of principles and signed by Rabin and Yasser Arafat on the lawn of the White House in September, was that the Israelis would relinquish control of the Gaza strip and an area around the West Bank town of Jericho. This would come under sole Palestinian control, administered by an elected Palestinian government of sorts. This was designed as the first stage of a process eventually extending throughout the occupied territories and leading to a complete and comprehensive settlement by the end of 1998. In addition to Gaza and Jericho, the Palestinians took control of six major towns. That is as far as the process has gone. Political cold feet in Israel over the perennial issues of security, the status of Jerusalem and the future of the Jewish settlements has left the Palestinians with a disconnected patchwork of isolated pockets to which access, supplies and services are all under Israeli control. However, back in 1994/5, the deal also had important consequences for Israel’s relations with its neighbours. Jordan concluded a peace treaty with Israel during 1995 but Syria (upon whom the attitude of Lebanon also depends) has proved more intractable. The Syrians insist on the return of the Golan Heights, which the Israelis will find very difficult. The attitude of successive Israeli governments since the mid-1990s and the activities of militant Palestinian groups have been held largely responsible for most of the difficulties in implementing Oslo. The assassination of Yitzhak Rabin in November 1995 by right-wing Jewish fundamentalists, angry at Rabin’s supposed sell-out to the Palestinians, sharply polarised the country and made the June 1996 election which followed one of the most fraught. The Likud leader, Binyamin Netanyahu, won a marginal victory with a strong campaign which negated much of the emotional effect of Rabin’s death. In May 1999, the electorate once again turned to Labour, now led by Ehud Barak (yet another ex-general), who won by over ten per cent, the largest margin in recent electoral contests. Among the first actions of the Barak government was the widely popular withdrawal from south Lebanon. But he too was unable to make any progress on the outstanding issues with the Palestinians and amid a rapidly deteriorating security situation in which Israeli forces and Palestinian police and guerrillas were virtually at war, he called an election, facing near certain defeat, to be held in February 2001. His opponent was the notoriously hawkish Ariel Sharon, like Barak another in the long Israeli tradition of soldier-politicians. Sharon was duly elected with almost two-thirds of the popular vote, although the Labour party agreed to join a coalition government to ensure a majority in the Knesset. Sharon was determined to reverse the Oslo-based process through a combination of economic strangulation and military action. The Palestinian response was al-intifada 2000, along with desperate appeals to the outside world (largely ignored) and, from the hard-liners, suicide bombs and gun attacks on illegal Israeli settlements. As usual in such conflicts, many more civilians than fighters have been killed and injured on both sides. Sharon was fortunate in having the strongly pro-Israeli Bush administration in White House from the beginning of 2001. Despite opposition from elsewhere, mainly Europe, he has been able to pursue his objectives with impunity and by the middle of 2002, the Palestinian Authority was all but finished. Many Palestinians now look to the Islamic militants of Hamas and a younger generation of secular fighters organised in such groups as the al-Aqsa Martyrs Brigade (named after Jersulam’s al-Aqsa mosque). In October 2002, policy divisions between the Labour Party on the one hand, and Sharon and Likud on the other, led the former to withdraw from the government. Elections are now due early in 2003. A hawkish right-wing government is the overwhelmingly likely result. Sharon speaks to a rising constituency in Israeli society whose growth since the beginning of the 1990s has induced a fundamental change in the nature of Israeli politics. First was the influx of several hundred thousand Russian Jews, taking advantage of their birthright and keen to escape the deteriorating situation at home. Second was the growing influence of orthodox Jewry within the country, both fundamentalist and mainstream, which has gradually produced a schism between the religious and secular in Israeli society – what has become known as the ‘kulturkampf’ (literally, ‘culture war’) between the two. Government: Israel has a parliamentary system of government, with a single chamber, the 120-seat Knesset, elected every four years by universal adult suffrage. The Knesset passes legislation and appoints a President as head of state. Executive power rests with the cabinet, led by the Prime Minister – normally the leader of the largest party – which takes office after a vote of confidence from the Knesset. Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.