Japan Overview ‘Where tradition and modernity meet’ The Japanese archipelago has long been a favourite of more adventurous travellers, and with high-tech Tokyo and vibrant Osaka increasingly popular choices for long-haul stopovers, and Japanese culture more fashionable than ever, there has never been a better time to explore this multifaceted country. While the bustling cities won’t fail to impress those in search of the clichés of the Japanese success story – skyscrapers, bullet trains, trendy nightlife and rampant consumerism – beneath the brash modernity beats an ancient heart. This is the realm of emperors and shoguns, the exquisite art of the geisha and the skill of the sumo wrestler. A land of great natural beauty where ancient festivals are celebrated according to the seasons and food is elevated to an art form. And from the snow festivals and lavender farms of the northern isle of Hokkaido, via Kyoto’s shrines and temples, to the sun-drenched beaches of the subtropical south, superb public transport means everywhere is easily accessible. Japan is one of the safest countries in the world, and there’s no need to worry about the language barrier – the Japanese are unfailingly friendly so help is always at hand. Whether you choose to climb Mount Fuji or relax at volcanic hot spring resorts, delight in traditional performing arts or lose yourself in high-tech wonderland, Japan is a truly unforgettable destination. Lucy Moss General Information Area: 377,873 sq km (145,897 sq miles). Population: 126,925,843 (official estimate 2000). Population Density: 340 per sq km. Capital: Tokyo. Population: 12,064,101 (official estimate 2000). GEOGRAPHY: Japan is separated from the Asian mainland by 160km (100 miles) of sea. About 70 per cent of the country is covered by hills and mountains, a number of which are active or dormant volcanoes. A series of mountain ranges runs from northern Hokkaido to southern Kyushu. The Japanese Alps (the most prominent range) run in a north–south direction through central Honshu. The highest mountain is Mount Fuji at 3776m (12,388ft). Lowlands and plains are small and scattered, mostly lying along the coast and composed of alluvial lowlands and diluvial uplands. The coastline is very long in relation to the land area, and has very varied features. The deeply indented bays with good natural harbours tend to be adjacent to mountainous terrain. Government: Constitutional monarchy. Head of State: Emperor Akihito since 1989. Head of Government: Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi since 2001. Language: Japanese is the official language. Some English is spoken in major cities. Religion: Shintoist and Buddhist (most Japanese follow both religions) with a Christian minority. In Okinawa, however, people believe in Niraikanai, the realm of the dead beyond the sea. Time: GMT + 9. Electricity: 100 volts AC, 60Hz in the west (Osaka); 100 volts AC, 50Hz in eastern Japan and Tokyo. Plugs are flat two-pin and light bulbs are screw-type. Communications:   Telephone Full IDD service. Country code: 81. Outgoing international code: 001. KDDI produces phonecards for international calls which can be bought at convenience stores for ¥1000, ¥3000 and ¥5000. Mobile telephone The Japanese mobile network uses PDC (Personal Digital Cellular System) technology, which is not compatible with GSM or other mobile services. Visitors to Tokyo can hire handsets under NTT’s ‘Do Co Mo’ agreement. For more information contact NTT Hibiya Building, First Floor, 1-1-6 Uchisaiwai-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-8019 (tel: (0120) 506 506 (toll free in Japan). Handsets can also be hired from a number of other companies in Japan, including Japan Handy Phone (tel: (3) 5225 2125; fax: (3) 5225 2124; website: www.japanphone.com) and Rentafone Japan (tel: (0909) 272 8987 (toll free in Japan); fax: (7) 5812 6214; website: www.rentafonejapan.com). Fax Sending and receiving can be arranged at any hour at major hotels. KDDI (Kokusai Denshin Denwa Co Ltd) offers facilities in Tokyo, Osaka, Yokohama and Nagoya. Internet There are many Internet cafes in Tokyo and in the main cities in Japan. The main ISPs include ASCII (website: www.ascii.co.jp), Starnet and Jeton. Some hotel telephones and the new grey telephones have modular sockets for computer network access. Telegram These can be sent from the main hotels and from the above company, also from larger post offices in major cities. Two rates are available. Overseas telegrams can also be sent from the Central Post Office in Tokyo until midnight. Post Letters can be taken to the Central Post Office in front of Tokyo Station or the International Post Office, near exit A-2 Otemachi subway station, which provide English-speaking personnel. Airmail to Europe takes four to six days. All main post offices have Poste Restante facilities and will hold mail for up to ten days. Post office hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700. The International Post Office and Central Post Office are open weekdays until 1900 and Saturday until 1700. Press The English-language daily newspapers in Tokyo include The Asahi Shimbun, The Daily Yomiuri, The Japan Times and The Mainichi Daily News. BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice): MHz 15.28 11.95 9.740 6.195 Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov): MHz 17.74 11.71 9.645 6.110 Passport/Visa   Passport Required? Visa Required? Return Ticket Required? British Yes 1 Yes Australian Yes 3 Yes Canadian Yes 3 Yes USA Yes 3 Yes OtherEU Yes 1/2 Yes Japanese PASSPORTS: Passport valid for the duration of intended stay in Japan required by all. Note: Whether or not they hold a visa, visitors who do not possess visible means of support for their stay, onward or return tickets and other documents for their next destination may be refused entry. VISAS: Required by all except the following: (a) 1. nationals of Austria, Germany, Ireland, Liechtenstein, Mexico, Switzerland and the UK for a stay of up to six months*; (b) 2. nationals of all other EU countries not mentioned above for a stay of up to three months; (c) 3. nationals of Andorra, Argentina, Australia, Bahamas, Barbados, Canada, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Estonia, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, Guatemala, Honduras, Hungary, Iceland, Israel, Lesotho, Malta, Mauritius, Monaco, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Surinam, Tunisia, Turkey, Uruguay and the USA for a stay of up to three months; (d) nationals of Brunei for a touristic stay of up to 14 days. Note: *Nationals who are permitted to stay for six months will initially be granted a stay of up to three months and may then apply, while in Japan, to the local Immigration Department for an extension of up to a further three months. Such extensions are at the discretion of the immigration authorities in Japan. For further information contact the Consulate (or Consular Section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section. Types of visa and cost: Temporary Visitor, Working, General/Student and Transit. Prices vary greatly according to nationality, the exchange rate and nature of intended visit. Some visas are free, some cost £17.50 (single-entry) and £34.50 (double/multiple-entry), some transit visas cost £4. Business visas for UK nationals cost £6.50. Contact the Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy) for further details. Validity: Varies greatly according to nationality and purpose of visit. Most single-entry visas are valid for three months (extensions for another three months granted at the discretion of Immigration Department in Japan); double-entry and multiple-entry visas for 12 months. Enquire at the Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy) for further details. Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section. Applications for all visas must be made in person. Application requirements: Temporary Visitor Visas: (a) Valid passport. (b) One or two completed application forms. (c) One or two passport-size photos. (d) Return air/sea ticket or copy. (e) Fee (cash only). (f) Proof of sufficient funds for stay (eg recent bank statement). (g) Proof of accommodation or travel itinerary. Working and General/Student Visas: (a)–(f) and, (g) A letter of invitation from person/company in Japan may also be requested in certain cases; (h) A letter of invitation from person or company in Japan may also be requested. Various other requirements are specified depending on what type of job or educational activity will be undertaken in the country; (i) A Certificate of Eligibility (original and a photocopy), endorsed by the Ministry of Justice prior to application for the visa itself, is highly recommended in order to speed up the visa processing time. For more information check with the Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); (j) Pre-paid SAE for return of passport by post. Working days required: Five for applications that do not need referral to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Tokyo. Up to four weeks if referral is needed. For those nationals that possess a Certificate of Eligibility the processing time will be reduced to three days. Some visas may take three months or longer. Contact the nearest Consulate (or Consular section of the Embassy) for more information. Temporary residence: Contact the nearest Consulate (or Consular section of the Embassy) for more information. Money Note: Japan has a strong cash culture, and because of the low crime rate it is usual to see people carrying large amounts of cash with them. It is only recently that credit cards have begun to become more popular. Currency: Japanese Yen (¥). Notes are in denominations of ¥10,000, 5000 2000 and 1000. Coins are in denominations of ¥500, 100, 50, 10, 5 and 1. Currency exchange: All money must be exchanged at an authorised bank or money changer. Credit & debit cards: Visa, Diners Club, American Express, MasterCard and other major credit cards are widely used. Check with your credit or debit card company for merchant acceptability. ATMs are widely available although many do not accept foreign credit or debit cards. They only operate during normal banking hours and weekend services can be restricted to Saturday morning. A wide selection of foreign credit and debit cards are accepted, however, at over 21,000 post office ATMs, which are generally open Mon-Fri 0700-2300, Sat-Sun 0900-1900. Citibank machines also accept foreign credit cards and are often open 24 hours. Travellers cheques: These can be exchanged at most major banks, larger hotels and some duty-free shops. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in Japanese Yen or US dollars. Currency restrictions: The import and export of local and foreign currency is unrestricted, subject to declaration of amounts equivalent to ¥1,000,000 or above. Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Japanese Yen against Sterling and the US Dollar: Date May ’02 Aug ’02 Nov ’02 Feb ’03 £1.00= 181.92 181.90 193.96 188.94 $1.00= 124.83 119.60 122.65 118.66 Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1500. Duty Free The following goods may be imported into Japan without incurring customs duty: 400 cigarettes or 100 cigars or 500g of tobacco; 3 bottles (approximately 0.760ml each) of spirits; 57ml of perfume; gifts up to the value of ¥200,000. Note: Tobacco and alcohol allowances are for those aged 20 or over. Oral declaration is necessary on arrival at customs. Prohibited items: Articles which infringe upon rights in patents, utility-models, designs, trademarks, copyright or neighbouring right; counterfeit, altered or imitated coins, paper money, banknotes or securities; all plants with soil, most meats, animals without health certificates, firearms and ammunition, narcotics, obscene articles and publications. Public Holidays Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Jan 2 Bank Holiday. Jan 3 Bank Holiday. Jan 13 Coming of Age Day. Feb 11 National Foundation Day. Mar 21 Vernal Equinox. Apr 29 Greenery Day. May 3 Constitution Memorial Day. May 5 Children’s Day. Jul 21 Maritime Day. Sep 15 Respect for the Aged Day. Sep 23 Autumnal Equinox. Oct 13 Health and Sports Day. Nov 3 Culture Day. Nov 23 Labour Thanksgiving Day. Dec 23 Birthday of the Emperor. Dec 31 Bank Holiday. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Jan 2 Bank Holiday. Jan 3 Bank Holiday. Jan 12 Coming of Age Day. Feb 11 National Foundation Day. Mar 20 Vernal Equinox. Apr 29 Greenery Day. May 3 Constitution Memorial Day. May 5 Children’s Day. Jul 19 Maritime Day. Sep 20 Respect for the Aged Day. Sep 23 Autumnal Equinox. Oct 11 Health and Sports Day. Nov 3 Culture Day. Nov 23 Labour Thanksgiving Day. Dec 23 Birthday of the Emperor. Dec 31 Bank Holiday. Note: (a) With the exception of New Year Bank Holidays, if a holiday falls on a Sunday, the following day is treated as a holiday instead. (b) When there is a single day between two national holidays, it is also taken as a holiday. (c) Between 29 December and 3 January government offices and many shops and offices are closed. Health   Special Precautions Certificate Required Yellow Fever No No Cholera No No Typhoid and Polio No N/A Malaria No N/A Food & drink: Food and drink are generally considered safe but there is risk of parisitic infection and toxins from raw seafood. Other risks: Typhus occurs in some river valleys. Japanese encephalitis may occur and paragonimiasis has been reported. Health care: Health insurance is strongly recommended, owing to the high cost of treatment. The International Association for Medical Assistance to Travellers provides English-speaking doctors. There are hospitals in all major cities. Travel - International AIR: Japan’s largest international airline is Japan Airlines (JL) (website: www.jal.co.jp). Many international airlines fly to Japan including: Air Canada, Air France, Air New Zealand, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific Airways, Finnair, Garuda Indonesia, IBERIA, KLM, Korean Air, Lufthansa, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas Airways, SAS, Swiss, Singapore Airlines, United Airlines and Virgin Atlantic. Approximate flight times: From Tokyo to London is 13 hours; to New York is 12 hours and 30 minutes; to Los Angeles is 9 hours and 30 minutes; to Hong Kong is 5 hours; to Sydney is 9 hours and 30 minutes. International airports: New Tokyo International Airport (NRT) (Narita City) (website: www.narita-airport.or.jp or www.tokyo-nrt.com) is 65km (40 miles) northeast of Tokyo (travel time – 1 hour 10 minutes). Airport facilities include duty-free shops, bank/bureau de change (0900-2300), car hire, restaurants and a tourist information centre with multilingual staff located in both terminals. Luxury coaches depart regularly from the airport to city-centre hotels. There is also a bus to the Tokyo City Air Terminal (TCAT). A shuttle bus links the airport with major hotels in the city centre. Tickets for all services can be bought in the terminals. Japan Railways Narita Express line runs from Narita station terminal located beneath the airport to Tokyo station (travel time – 60 minutes), Shinjuku (travel time – 90 minutes) and Yokohama (travel time – 105 minutes) every half hour from 0745-2145. JR also operate a slower, cheaper service that departs every 45 minutes (travel time – 1 hour and 20 minutes). First-class and private compartments are available. JR Passes can be used on these trains; see under Rail below for more information. Keisei ‘Skyliner Train’ also runs from the airport terminal to Keisei Ueno Station in Tokyo (travel time – 60 minutes) from 0920-2200. There are taxis to the city, with a surcharge after 2200 (travel time – 60-70 minutes). Travellers should note that these are five times as expensive as the trains. A second terminal opened in 1992, with its own Japan Railways and Keisei Line station in the basement. There is also a free shuttle bus connecting both terminals every 10-15 minutes (travel time – 10 minutes). Kansai International (KIX) (Kansai) (website: www.kansai-airport.or.jp) is 50km (31 miles) southwest of Osaka. Airport facilities include duty-free shops, car hire, banks/bureaux de change, tourist information (0900-2100) and bar/restaurant. There is a bus to the city every 30 minutes from 0800-2120 (travel time – 60 minutes). The Nankai RR service goes to Namba station every 15 minutes (travel time – 30 minutes). The JR West service goes to JR Osaka station every 30 minutes (travel time – 70 minutes). Taxis are available to the city (travel time – 60 minutes) although a surcharge may be imposed after 2200. It is also possible to take the jetfoil from Kansai Airport to Kobe’s Port Island (travel time – 32 minutes). Fukuoka International (FUK) is 20 minutes’ travel time from Fukuoka City. Airport facilities include an outgoing duty-free shop, car hire, bank/bureau de change and bar/restaurant. Nagoya International (NGO) is 10km (6 miles) north of the city and has flights to 29 international destinations including: Hong Kong, Seoul, Bangkok, Singapore, Honolulu, Taipei, Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney, Frankfurt/M and Paris. Departure tax: ¥2650 at Kansai Airport. Children under 12 are charged half price, children under two are exempt. There is no departure tax from other airports. SEA: Japan is easily accessible by sea, and passenger ships include the major ports on their schedules. Ferries operate daily from Osaka and Kobe to Shanghai (China) and weekly from Kobe to Tanggu (near Tianjin, China). For Taiwan, ferries depart from Okinawa. The Shimonoseki-Busan ferry runs nightly across the Sea of Japan to South Korea. Links to Russia include weekly services between Yokohama and Nakhoda (near Vladivostok). Alternatively, there is a twice weekly service to Wakkanai in Hokkaido from Korsakov in Russia. There are cruises between the Japanese islands en route to Shanghai and Hong Kong. Cruise lines that call at Japan include Seabourn Cruise Lines, Princess Cruises and Clipper Cruise Lines. RAIL: The Trans-Siberian route to Japan is an interesting and very well organised, if lengthy, trip. Connections can be made daily from London (Liverpool Street) via Harwich or London (Victoria) via Dover through Europe to Moscow. There are sleeping cars four times a week from Hook of Holland to Moscow, and twice a week from Ostend to Moscow. The Trans-Siberian railway departs regularly from Moscow (see Russian Federation section). Travel - Internal AIR: Japan Airlines (JL), All Nippon Airways, Japan Air System and several other airlines maintain an extensive network covering Japan proper and its islands. Tokyo’s domestic airport is Haneda (HND). A monorail service runs from Hamamatsu-cho to Haneda. One international airline, China Airlines, serves Haneda. Other international flights to and from Haneda are made via Tokyo, Osaka, Fukuoka or Nagoya, Main routes are Tokyo–Sapporo; Tokyo–Fukuoka; Tokyo–Osaka; and Tokyo–Naha. Tickets can be purchased at automatic machines at Tokyo International Airport’s domestic departure counter and at Osaka International Airport. SEA: There are frequent services by high-speed boat, ferry or hydrofoil to Japan’s islands. Popular routes include Tokoyo–Hokkaido (in the north) and Tokyo–Okinawa (in the south). Major sea routes include Awaji Island: Akashi–Iwaya; Shodo Island: Himeji–Fukuda, Okayama–Tonosho and Takamatsu–Tonosho; Shiraishijima and Manabejima Islands: Kasaoka–Shiraishijima–Manabejima; Ikuchijima and Omishama Islands: Mihara–Setoda. Bullet train services travel frequently to ports. RAIL: The Japan Railways Group (JR) runs one of the best rail networks in the world, and is widely used for both business and pleasure. Express and ‘limited express’ trains are best for intercity travel. Very frequent services run on the main routes. Shinkansen, the ‘Bullet Trains’, are the fastest, with compartments for wheelchair passengers, diners and buffet facilities. Supplements are payable on the three classes of express train and in ‘Green’ (first-class) cars of principal trains, for which reservations must be made. Other types of train include Tokkyu (Limited Express), Kyuko (Express), Kaisoku (Rapid Train) and Futsu (Local Train). For short-distance trains, tickets can only be bought at vending machines outside train stations. Discount fares: The Japan Rail Pass, an economical pass for foreign tourists which must be purchased before arrival in Japan, can be obtained from Japan Airlines (JL users only) or authorised travel agents and agencies. It can be used on all trains except the new ‘Nozomi’ super express trains, and also on Japan Rail buses and Japan Rail ferries. A Japan Rail Pass brochure is available from the Japan National Tourist Organisation (see Contact Addresses section). A seven-day pass currently costs ¥28,300. For travellers without a Japan Rail Pass, there are various other discount schemes in operation including a ten per cent discount at any JR Group Hotel. Other rail passes include the JR East Pass, JR West Rail Pass, Sanyo Area Pass, Kansai Area Pass and the JR Kyushu Rail Pass. For details of other discount fares, contact the Japan National Tourist Organisation (see Contact Addresses section). ROAD: Driving in Japan is complicated for those who cannot read the language as it will be a problem to understand the road signs. Traffic in cities is often congested. Traffic drives on the left. The Keiyo Highway, Tohoku Expressway, Tomei Expressway and the Meishin Expressway link Japan’s major Pacific coastal cities, passing through excellent scenery. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is required. URBAN: Public transport is well developed, efficient and crowded. The underground systems and privately run suburban rail services, which serve all the main cities, are very convenient but best avoided in rush hours. Tokyo also has a good network of trams. Bus: These can be confusing and are best used with someone who knows the system. Otherwise visitors should get exact details of their destination from the hotel. Fares systems are highly automated, but passes may be available. On buses, payment may be made on leaving. Metro: All of Japan’s largest cities have subway systems. Tokyo has two underground systems: the Teito Rapid Transit Authority (TRTA) runs the Eidan Subway with eight lines, and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government (TBTMG) operates four lines. A variety of tickets can be bought including a monthly open pass, one-day open ticket, 14 tickets for the price of ten, and a Tokyo Combination ticket; this can be bought six months in advance and entitles the passenger to unlimited travel on the subway, JR rail and Toei buses for one day within the six months. Kyoto also has its own subway system with two major lines: the Karasuma and Tozai lines. Kyoto Sightseeing Passes can be bought enabling unlimited rides on buses and the underground. Taxi: These can be expensive, particularly in rush hour (0730-0930 and 1700-1800). There is a minimum charge for the first 2km (1.2 miles) and there is a time charge in slow traffic. It is advisable for visitors to have prepared in advance the name and address of their destination in Japanese writing, together with the name of some nearby landmark; a map may also help. Hotels can provide this service. TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times (in hours and minutes) from Tokyo to other major cities/towns in Japan. Air Road Rail Sea Nagoya - 4.00 2.00 - Kagoshima 1.50 26.00 10.00 48.00 Fukuoka 1.45 13.00 6.30 - Nagasaki 1.40 18.00 9.00 - Okinawa 2.30 - - 60.00 Osaka 1.00 6.00 3.15 - Sapporo 1.25 - 14.00 - Accommodation Note: The Welcome Card (Culture Card) offers reductions for foreign visitors on accommodation, meals, shopping and entertainment. It is available free of charge at JNTO’s Tokyo Tourist Information Centres, or for ¥700 from information centres at Kansai International Airport, Kyoto Prefectural Information Centre, Kyoto City Information Centre and Kobe City Information Centre. HOTELS: Hotels are ‘Western’ or ‘Japanese’ style. Western-style accommodation (ranging from deluxe hotels to pensions) are much like any modern US or European hotel. Japanese-style hotels (ryokan) provide exciting new experiences: guests receive kimonos and wooden clogs and rooms come equipped with Japanese bathtubs and paper sliding doors. Many non-obligatory extras are available. Service charges of ten to 20 per cent are added to the bill. For more details contact the Japan Ryokan Association (website: www.ryokan.or.jp). Further information about other Japanese accommodation can be obtained by contacting the Japan Hotel Association, Shin Otemachi Building, 2-2-1 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0004 (tel: (3) 3279 2706; fax: (3) 3274 5375; website: www.j-hotel.or.jp); or Japan Hotel Network, Hanagashima Cho, Sesemachi 1256-1-109, Sato Mansion 109, Miyazaki City (fax: (985) 322 213; e-mail: jhn@japanhotel.net; website: www.japanhotel.net); or The Japan National Tourist Organisation (see Contact Addresses section). For Tokyo Hotels specifically, contact the Tokyu Hotel Chain Co, Ltd, 10-3 Nagata-Cho, 2-Chome, Chiyoda-Ku, Tokyo 100-0014, Japan (tel: (3) 3581 8655; fax: (3) 3264 0225; website: www.tokyuhotel.com). Grading: No accommodation grading system operates in Japan. GUEST-HOUSES: Minshuku, often found in resorts and vacation spots, are the Japanese equivalent of guest home-type lodging. Rates are moderate, and visitors should expect considerably fewer amenities than ryokan or western-style hotels. Visitors are expected to fold up their bedding in the morning and stow it away in a closet, and towels are usually not provided. No shoes are worn in the house as slippers are provided. Small gifts or five per cent may be given with the bill. YOUTH HOSTELS: There are roughly 400 youth hostels throughout Japan. Many require visitors to be a member of the International Youth Hostel Federation, although a guest card can be bought in advance at the Tokyo National Headquarters. Contact Japan Youth Hostels Inc, 2-20-7 Misaki-Cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 101-0006 (tel: (3) 3288 1417; fax: (3) 3288 1248; e-mail: info@jyh.jp; website: www.jyh.or.jp). PENSIONS: These are ‘Bed & Breakfast’ style lodges which offer a comfortable atmosphere. They are often located near ski resorts, lakesides or in more rural areas. For further information contact the Japan National Tourist Organisation (see Contact Addresses section). Accommodation tax: As of October 2002, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government introduced an ‘Accommodation Tax’ on hotels and inns around the city that charge over ¥10,000 per room. The tax will be ¥100 on rooms costing between ¥10,000 and ¥15,000 per night, and ¥200 for rooms costing over ¥15,000. For more information check online (website: www.metro.tokyo.jp). Introduction The Japanese archipelago stretches over 3000km (1900 miles) from the temperate, northernmost island of Hokkaido to the subtropical islands of Okinawa in the south. Both Tokyo and Kyoto are located on Honshu, the largest and economically and culturally most important of the four major islands. Shikoku and Kyushu lie to the southwest. Much of the archipelago is mountainous and only a small percentage of land is available for agriculture and development. Thus large areas remain forested while towns and cities tend to be densely populated. The coastline is indented with numerous bays, inlets and small islands. Note: The Japanese government provides a nationwide telephone service called Japan Travel Phone which offers visitors from abroad extensive tourist information and general assistance in English (tel: (0088) 224 800 (toll free except Tokyo and Kyoto); (3) 3201 3331 (Tokyo); (75) 371 5649 (Kyoto). It can only be dialled from inside Japan Mon-Fri 0900-1700). A volunteer ‘Goodwill Guide’ service is available in Kyoto, Nara and other popular destinations such as Himeji and Hiroshima. Call Japan Travel Phone for more details. Tokyo Japan’s capital and centre of business and finance, Tokyo offers a surprising blend of futuristic cityscapes, historic sights and cultural entertainments. A vast conglomeration of districts, each boasts its own characteristic attractions. The Ginza is one of Asia’s shopping paradises. Prices are high but the selection and presentation are superb. Nearby is the Kabukiza Theatre and the Imperial Palace (closed to the public) with its impressive moat and East Garden (Higashi Gyoen). Tokyo Tower affords excellent views of the bay and the space age architecture on Rainbow Town (O-daiba), a reclaimed island. Early risers will enjoy touring the massive waterfront Tsukiji Fish Market. Roppongi and Akasaka, playgrounds for the nearby banking and governmental districts, offer vibrant nightlife of every kind, from geisha tea houses to discos. For youth culture, fashion and trendy dining, Shibuya and Harajuku are the places to see and be seen, while the forested oasis of the Meiji Shrine offers respite from the crowds. West Shinjuku is Tokyo’s high-rise metropolis with its ‘Gothem City’ skyscrapers and plazas. To the east, Shinjuku’s bustling shopping and neon-lit nightlife districts contrast strongly with the calm beauty of the neighbouring Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. For a taste of ‘Old Tokyo’, the downtown Shitamachi area is the place to head for, particularly in the summer when three enormous festivals attract vast crowds of revellers and spectators. The Asakusa-Kannon Temple is the area’s main tourist draw, a vibrant Buddhist complex approached via a colourful shopping lane. Across the river, Ryogoku is the location of the excellent Edo-Tokyo Museum and the renowned National Sumo Stadium. Ueno is famous for its large park containing several important art museums and cultural venues. Cheap eats and bargains galore are to be found at raucous Ameyoko Market. EXCURSIONS: Narita, location of Tokyo International Airport, is an attractive old town with a large and impressive pilgrimage temple, Narita-san. Nearby Tokyo Disneyland is a major year-round attraction for Japanese and foreigners alike. Two hours’ north of Tokyo in Nikko, the extraordinary Toshogu Shrine complex is situated with the mausoleum of the founder of Japan’s Tokugawa Shogunate. The surrounding Nikko National Park offers mountain hot spring resorts and opportunities for hiking, fishing and boating. Pottery fans will enjoy the rural kiln town of Mashiko. The coastal town of Kamakura, one hour south of Tokyo, was the seat of Japan’s medieval feudal government and abounds in historic sights. Highlights include the giant bronze Great Buddha, colourful Hachimangu Shrine and picturesque Enoshima Island. The international port city of Yokohama, 30 minutes from Tokyo, has a vibrant Chinatown, harbour district and historic Sankei-en Garden. Japan’s highest mountain, Mount Fuji, may be climbed during the high summer. Located one hour and 30 minutes from Tokyo is Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, a recreational paradise offering hot spring resorts, golf courses and facilities for fishing, camping, hiking, swimming and boating. At Hakone, cable cars carry visitors over volcanic landscapes of boiling mud, sightseeing boats ply scenic Lake Ashi and there is an Open Air Sculpture Museum, a Porsche Museum and several sights of historical interest. Northern Honshu & Hokkaido Northern Honshu, known as Tohoku, offers wonderful natural scenery spread over three national parks plus numerous lesser-known cultural and historical treasures. Sendai is a lively, modern city, home of the famous August Tanabata Star Festival and gateway to the Tohoku region. Nearby Matsushima boasts a famously scenic bay. The pleasant city of Aizu-Wakamatsu is known for its lacquerware, historic Tsurugaoka Castle and fascinating Buke-yashiki samurai residence. The volcanic landscapes of the adjacent Bandai-Asahi National Park are a favourite with hikers, as is the dramatic Dewa Sanzan area and Mount Zao, which in winter transforms into one of Japan’s top ski resorts. Historic Hiraizumi is of interest for the fabulously ornate Chusonji Temple and Hirosaki is an attractive castle town. To the very north of Honshu, the stunning volcanic crater of Lake Towada is surrounded by the alpine landscapes of the Towada-Hachimantai National Park, also known for its hot springs and ski resorts. Hokkaido was for a long time Japan’s ‘Wild West’ and still retains a distinct pioneer feel. The island is home to the last of Japan’s indigenous Ainu people, and the remnants of their distinct culture are a major attraction. Large parts of Hokkaido are protected as National Parks: areas of fantastic volcanic scenery, ‘bottomless’ crater lakes, hot springs and numerous mountain and ski resorts. Furano, in particular, is renowned for its summer flower fields and winter skiing. During the winter visitors flock to see two of Hokkaido’s outstanding natural phenomena: ‘dancing’ cranes and hot-spring-bathing monkeys. Sapporo, Hokkaido’s vibrant capital, is famous for its great nightlife and extraordinary February Snow Festival. To the south, the port city of Hakodate was one of the first of Japan’s ports to open to foreign trade. Known for its historic Goryokaku Fort and gorgeous night views, the city displays a notable Russian influence. The Japanese Alps & Central Japan The Japanese Alps run through the centre of Honshu Island, an area known as ‘the Roof of Japan’. A popular natural playground for hikers, climbers and sightseers in all seasons, much of the area is protected as a National Park. Nagano, the prefectural capital, hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics and is renowned for its great Zenkoji Pilgrimage Temple. The surrounding area abounds in skiing and hot spring resorts. Matsumoto is the main gateway to the Alps and retains its original medieval castle. The nearby Kamikochi Highlands are a favourite destination for hikers, particularly in the autumn when the colours of the leaves are spectacular. Takayama is famous for its colourful festivals and boasts a largely preserved 17th-century townscape. The historic city of Kanazawa is known for the beautiful Kenrokuen Garden and for a range of traditional industries such as silk-dying and ceramics. To the north, the Noto Peninsula’s dramatic coastline and tiny fishing villages attract adventurers, while to the south are the great Zen temple complex of Eiheiji and the picturesque Shirakawa-go folk villages. One hour by boat from the coastal city of Niigata lies Sado Island, rural, unspoilt and home to the world-famous Kodo Drummers. Nagoya is Japan’s fourth largest city, noted for its porcelain industry, textile and lacquer crafts. Nagoya Castle is an impressive sight, as is Atsuta Jingu, one of Japan’s most important shrines. Meiji Mura is an extensive outdoor museum of characteristic buildings from the Meiji Period. Japan’s pre-eminent Shinto shrine is the revered Ise Grand Shrine, located one hour and 30 minutes from Nagoya. The Ise Shima National Park protects the scenic coastal area dotted with numerous small pearl fishing villages. The port of Toba is famous for its ‘Married Rocks’, two islets linked by a massive Shinto rope, and Mikimoto Pearl Island features demonstrations of techniques used in the pearl industry. Kyoto, Nara & Osaka Located in the Kansai area, these three famous cities are all major tourist destinations, each having contributed distinctive elements towards Japanese history and culture. Capital of Japan for over 1000 years, Kyoto remains Japan’s star attraction. Founded in AD 794, the city’s vast number of temples, shrines, museums and historical sites acts as a textbook to Japanese history, while her arts, crafts and cuisine rank among the country’s finest. ‘Must see’ sights include the Golden Pavilion (Kinkakuji), the minimalist Zen rock garden of Ryoanji, impressive Kiyomizu Temple and the Imperial gardens and villas of Katsura and Shugakuin (permit required). The splendid medieval Nijo Castle, the vermilion-lacquered Heian Shrine and the Buddhist art treasures of Sanjusangendo Temple are also well worth visiting. The city’s many historical neighbourhoods, such as the rural temples of Arashiyama, the textile workshops of Nishijin and the Gion geisha district, are best explored on foot. Kyoto hosts three major traditional summer events, the colourful Aoi, Gion and Jidai Festivals. Nara, one hour south of Kyoto, is a major Buddhist centre and acted as Japan’s capital during the eighth century AD. Visitors flock to see the famous ‘great Buddha’ of Todaiji Temple, the world’s largest wooden structure, ancient Kasuga Shrine and the Buddhist sculptures of Kofukuji Temple. The beautiful expanses of Nara Park are home to hundreds of sacred deer. Nearby, the venerable Horyuji Temple dates back to the seventh century AD. One of Japan’s largest cities, prosperous and commercial Osaka is renowned for its abundance of excellent restaurants, historic Osaka Castle and the performing arts of Kabuki and Bunraku. The city also boasts an impressive aquarium and superb Museum of Oriental Ceramics. The city’s busy Namba and Umeda districts are renowned for their nightlife and the Dotonburi area is particularly vibrant after dark. Universal Studios Japan opened its 140 acre theme park in Osaka in 2001, an attraction which is proving to be enormously popular. EXCURSIONS: The historic town of Uji, between Kyoto and Nara, is famous for the graceful Byodoin Temple which is featured on Japan’s ¥10 coin. Pilgrims and tourists are welcomed by the many temples and monasteries on scenic Mount Koya, two hours from Osaka, where overnight temple lodgings and Buddhist vegetarian cuisine are offered at reasonable prices. The port city of Kobe has an international flavour and is famous for its old foreign-style houses and buildings dating from the Meiji era. Western Honshu The main attractions of Western Honshu are to be found along the coasts, namely the Inland Sea Coast (Sanyo) and the Japan Sea Coast (Sanin). The gleaming white walls of Himeji Castle dominate the city of Himeji. Known as the ‘White Heron Castle’, it is the best preserved and most beautiful castle in Japan. The pleasant city of Okayama is known for its black castle and the Korakuen Stroll Garden, considered one of the three most beautiful in the country. Nearby is the pottery town of Bizen and wonderfully preserved Kurashiki with its historic merchants’ quarter, now housing numerous museums and craft galleries. Further west, Hiroshima was the target of the world’s first atom bomb during World War II but has risen from the ashes to become a thriving modern city. The bombing is commemorated by the Peace Memorial Park and Museum. Nearby is the beautiful island of Miyajima, its famous red Shinto torii gateway seemingly floating on the sea at high tide. Itsukushima Shrine, the cable car up the central mountain for panoramic views and the tame deer are all major attractions. Iwakuni is known for its five-arched bridge while Hagi, on the western Japan Sea Coast, is famous for its pottery and will appeal to history buffs. The sand dunes of Tottori, ancient Izumo Taisha Shrine and the famous coastal panorama of Amanohashidate are the most famous attractions along this northern coastline. Shikoku The smallest of Japan’s four main islands, Shikoku is linked to Honshu by two major bridges and numerous ferries which crisscross the beautiful island-studded waters of the Inland Sea. Protected as the Inland Sea National Park, many of the 600 islands are popular summer beach destinations. Facing these placid waters, the attractive city of Takamatsu, on the northern coast of Shikoku, is the main gateway to the island. The historic Ritsurin Park is considered among the most beautiful in Japan and the mountaintop Kotohira Shrine, about an hour away, is extremely impressive. To the east is Tokushima, a city famous for its coastal Naruto Whirlpools and massive summer Awa Odori dance festival. Matsuyama, on the western coast of Shikoku, boasts one of Japan’s best-preserved medieval castles. The nearby Dogo Spa is famous as being among the oldest in Japan. Located on Shikoku’s rugged Pacific southern coast, Kochi is also noted for its castle. The mountainous interior of the island remains wild and largely unspoilt. Shikoku is famous for its pilgrimage circuit of 88 temples dedicated to Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy. Kyushu The southernmost of Japan’s four main islands, Kyushu is best known for its mild climate, volcanic landscape, excellent hot springs and ceramics. The gateway to Kyushu, Fukuoka (Hakata) is known for its traditional textile and doll-making industries, its delicious food and for the nearby Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, a very active place of worship where students go to pray to the god of learning. On Kyushu’s west coast, Nagasaki was one of Japan’s earliest designated foreign ports and is famous for Arita and Imari ceramics and for the Peace Park which commemorates the devastation caused by the second nuclear bomb of World War II. Other major sights include the Chinese Temple, Chinatown and Glover House, said to be the setting that inspired Puccini’s opera Madame Butterfly. Nearby Mount Unzen, an active volcano, is also a well known hot spring resort. Kumamoto is an old castle town and gateway to the scenic wonders of the Mount Aso National Park. To the south of the island, the seaport of Kagoshima is overshadowed by the dramatic smoking cone of Sakurajima volcanic island. Nearby Ibusuki Spa, on the southern tip of Kyushu, boasts some of the most famous hot springs in Japan and is renowned for its hot-sand saunas. Summer whale- and dolphin-watching tours depart from the town of Kasasa. Beyond Kagoshima lies the beautiful, mountainous island of Yakushima, a National Park renowned for its primeval cedar forests and hiking trails. Miyazaki, situated on Kyushu’s southeastern coast, is a prosperous modern city famous for its palm trees, golf courses and ancient burial mounds. The Beppu hot spring resort, near the city of Oita, is great fun despite its slightly sleazy atmosphere. Dozens of hotel and bathing complexes compete for customers by offering everything from amusement parks and sports facilities to museums, gardens and shopping arcades. Okinawa The 161 islands that make up Okinawa lie to the far south of Japan, like stepping stones between Kyushu and Taiwan. The subtropical climate, clear turquoise seas and many fine beaches mean that the islands have long been a holiday favourite among the Japanese. Recently, however, several of the islands have also started to become well known as eco-destinations. Numerous coral reefs offer excellent diving opportunities, with many resorts catering to enthusiasts. Okinawa Island, the main island of the group, has a number of famous resorts such as Onna Beach and Manza Beach, offering white sands and watersports. The fantastic formations of the Gyokusendo Caves are also a popular attraction. Naha, the relaxed Okinawan capital, is famous for its pottery and textiles and impressive Shuri Castle, former seat of the Ryukyu kings. The large US bases nearby help to fuel a lively nightlife scene. The island retains many reminders of the fierce fighting that took place here during World War II, and the southern coastline is dotted with war memorials. Ishigaki Island has great diving, snorkelling and folkcrafts and is a good base from which to explore the remoter islands. Iriomote Island is known for its mangrove swamps, jungle interior and rare wildlife such as the Iriomote Wildcat, while tiny Taketomi retains its rural charm. Occurring throughout the islands, Okinawa’s ancient Ryukyu festivals are some of Japan’s most colourful and feature distinctive performing arts. Sport & Activities Martial arts: Japanese ceremonial wrestling, sumo, and judo are Japan’s national sports, both drawing huge crowds. There are six sumo tournaments a year, each of which lasts for 15 days. Three of them are held in Tokyo, and the others take place in Osaka, Nagoya and Fukuoka. Matches by senior wrestlers begin at 1500. Sumo training sessions can be observed between 0500 and 1030 at Kasungo Stable in Tokyo (tel: (3) 3631 1871). Judo enthusiasts can visit the Kodokan Judo Hall, 1-16-30, Kasuga, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo (tel: (3) 3818 4172), where there is a spectators’ gallery. There are opportunities for the visitor to purchase a costume and learn some of the techniques. There are separate classes for men and women and in most large schools English is spoken. More information can be obtained from the All Japan Judo Federation (website: www.judo.or.jp). Karate, the art of self defence, is taught at schools in Japan and has become a very popular sport since it was introduced into the country in 1922. For further information contact the Japan Karatedo Federation, Sixth Floor, 2 Sempaku Shinkokai Building, 1-11-2, Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo (tel: (3) 3503 6640; website: www.karatedo.co.jp). Kendo, Japanese fencing, is practised in numerous clubs and college halls. In December, the All-Japan Championships are held in Tokyo. Kyudo, Japanese archery, is one of the oldest martial arts. It is closely associated with Zen Buddhism. Unlike many martial arts, it is pursued by almost as many female students as males. Yabusame, or archery on horseback, which was originally performed by courtiers or imperial guards in the seventh century, is today a Shinto rite for ensuring peace and good harvests. It is staged by horsemen in colourful costumes who gallop down a narrow 250m course shooting at small wooden targets set up at 80m intervals. The best known events are at Tsurugaoka Hachmagu shrine in Kamakura on the third Sunday in April and on 16 September and at the Shimogano Shrine in Kyoto on 3 May. Wintersports: These are very popular and there are over 50 major ski resorts, especially in the Japanese Alps and on the northern island of Hokkaido. One of the great attractions is the prevalence of hot springs in the skiing areas. Various resorts at Nagana in Central Honshu offer facilities for night skiing. The southernmost natural ski slope in Japan is the Gokase Highland Ski, in the north Miyazaki prefecture, which offers grass skiing out of season between late April and late November. Transport connections are very good, and there are sometimes railway stations within a few minutes walk of the slopes. During the ski season, it is necessary to reserve seats on trains and buses. Although equipment is easy to hire, it can sometimes be a problem to obtain ski boots in larger sizes; skiers should telephone the resort in advance in order to check on availability. Both diving and snorkelling are popular around the Kerama Islands near Okinawa which is one of the world’s clearest sea areas. Between January and March it is also an area for whale watching. All kinds of fishing are practised, and there are many keen anglers in Japan. Freshwater fish include trout, funa (silver carp) and ayu (sweetfish). Given the shape of the country, fishing locations are never far away. Travellers might like to try ukai or cormorant fishing, a type of fishing where cormorants are used to catch fish. The cormorants and the crew do the work while the passengers watch. Food and drink are provided. Expeditions go out at night and can be arranged through hotels and tourist boards in the Kyoto area. Cycling: This is popular in April and May during the cherry blossom season and also in October and November when autumn colours adorn Japan. Owing to snow and ice, cycling in Hokkaido and in the northern area of the main island, Honshu, is not recommended between December and March. Cyclists must keep to the left and should be careful at all times because of heavy traffic, especially on the national highways. There are numerous interesting paths routed through Toyko. Football: Japan co-hosted the 2002 World Cup with the Republic of Korea. Football has taken off in a big way in Japan in recent years with the introduction of the Japanese soccer J-League and the participation of the Japanese national team in the World Cup of 1998 and, of course, 2002. Golf: Courses in and around Tokyo are considered by some to be among the most challenging in the world. However, membership or an invitation is sometimes required. Some courses have the additional attraction of hot spring baths and mahjhong rooms. For further information, contact the Japan Golf Association, 606 Palace Building, 1-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100 (tel: (3) 3215 0003; fax: (3) 3214 2831; website: www.jga.or.jp). Cultural activities: Among the traditional entertainments on offer is bunraku, a unique form of puppet theatre. This can be seen in major towns, as can noh drama and kabuki, traditional Japanese drama forms, with participants attired in medieval costumes. The most fascinating and colourful of Japan’s religious festivals take place in Kyoto, the old imperial capital. The Gion Festival reaches its climax on 16-17 July. A street parade takes place with the participants dressed in fine costumes and carrying portable shrines. The large floats depict ancient themes. The Aoi (or hollyhock) Festival on 15 May dates back to the sixth century. The procession, consisting of imperial messengers in oxcarts followed by a retinue of 600 people dressed in traditional costume, leaves at around 10am from the imperial palace and heads for Shimogamo-jinja shrine where ceremonies take place. It then proceeds to Kamigamo-jinja shrine. The Jidai Festival (festival of the ages) is of more recent origin, though still splendid to watch. More than 2000 people parade through the town dressed in costumes dating from different periods. For dates of other festivals, see Special Events in the Social Profile section. Those wishing to see the Japanese tea ceremony can arrange to do so through the tourist information centres in Tokyo and Kyoto (see Contact Addresses section). If visitors are interested in eastern religions they can arrange to stay at a shukubo (or temple lodging). The tourist office will have a full list of temples offering this service. Sometimes it is possible to participate in meditation sessions. Social Profile Food & Drink: Japanese cuisine, now popular in the West, involves very sensitive flavours, fresh crisp vegetables and an absence of richness. Specialities include teriyaki (marinated beef/chicken/fish seared on a hot plate), sukiyaki (thin slices of beef, bean curd and vegetables cooked in soy sauce and then dipped in egg), tempura (deep fried seafood and vegetables), sushi (slices of raw seafood placed on lightly vinegared rice balls – very tasty and refreshing) and sashimi (slices of raw seafood dipped in soy sauce). The best place to try sushi is a Kaiten Sushi Bar, where many varieties pass the customer on a conveyor belt allowing complete choice over which delicacies to try, at more reasonable prices than a traditional Sushi Bar. Fine Oriental food (Korean – very hot – and Chinese) is served in restaurants. An amazing number and variety of international restaurants is also available, catering for every possible taste and budget, from French and Italian to Chinese, Indian and Thai. Western dishes in expensive places are good, but cheaper restaurants may be disappointing. Restaurants have table service and in some places it is customary to remove footwear. Green tea is by far the most popular bevarage amongst the Japanese. The quality of the tea varies greatly from houjicha (a common brown-coloured tea) to matcha (a bitter green tea used in tea ceremonies). Sake, hot rice wine, is strong and distinctively fresh tasting. Shochu, a strong aquavit, is an acquired taste. Japanese wines are worth trying once, and beer – similar to lager – is recommended. Popular brands are Kirin, Sapporo, Suntory and Asahi. Waiter service is common in bars. The Japanese are very fond of original Scotch whisky, but this is both very expensive and highly sought after, therefore Japanese versions of this drink are often served. There are no licensing hours. Drinking is subject to long-standing rituals of politeness. The hostess will pour a drink for the visitor, and will insist on the visitor’s glass being full. It is also appreciated if the visitor pours drinks for the host, but it is bad manners for a visitor to pour one for himself. Nightlife: Tokyo has an abundance of cinemas, theatres, bars, coffee shops, discotheques and nightclubs. A wide range of bars is available, from the upmarket and stylish to cheap street stalls. In the summer, rooftop beer gardens are popular. Some clubs have hostesses who expect to be bought drinks and snacks. In bigger nightclubs and bars, a basic hostess charge is levied. However, there are thousands of other bars and clubs. In Tokyo there are concerts of all styles of music almost every night. Foreign opera companies, ballet companies, orchestras and rock/pop stars visit Japan all year round. Some live jazz houses are also available. For those who would like to try the traditional Japanese performing arts, there is Kabuki and Noh theatre in Tokyo. Play Guide ticket offices are situated in major department stores. It is advisable to purchase the tickets in advance because shows are quickly sold out. Karaoke bars are a very popular form of entertainment in Japan. Shopping: A blend of Oriental goods and Western sales techniques confronts the shopper, particularly at the big department stores, which are more like exhibitions than shops. Playgrounds for children are available. Special purchases include kimonos, mingei (local crafts including kites and folk toys); Kyoto silks, fans, screens, dolls; religious articles such as Shinto and Buddhist artefacts; paper lanterns; lacquerware; hi-fi equipment, cameras, televisions and other electronic equipment. Bargaining is not ususal. Tax exemptions: These are available in authorised tax-free stores. Certain items over ¥10,000 are exempt from tax. Shopping hours: 1000-1900/2000 every day of the week and on public holidays. Special Events: A large number of festivals are held in Japan throughout the year in different parts of the country. Some are hugely spectacular, some are religious in orientation. For full details of events and festivals in 2003, contact the Japan National Tourist Organisation (see Contact Addresses). The following is a selection of annual events and festivals held in Japan (dates are subject to variation): Jan Toka Ebisu, Festival of Imamiya Ebisu Shrine, Osaka; Grass Fire Ceremony, Mt Wakakusayama, Nara. Feb Snow Festival, Sapporo; Lantern Festival of Kasuga Shrine, Nara. Mar Hinamatsuri or Doll Festival, all Japan. Apr Kamakura Matsuri of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, Kamakura. May Grand Festival of Toshogu Shrine, Tochigi. Jul Tanabata (Star Festival), throughout Japan. Jul 17 Gion Matsuri of Yasaka Shrine, Kyoto. Aug Nebuta Matsuri, Aomori; Neputa Matsuri, Hirosaki; Peace Ceremony, Hiroshima; Awa Odori, Tokushima. Oct Okunchi Festival of Suwa Shrine, Nagasaki; Takayama Matsuri of Hachiman Shrine, Takayama; Jidai Matsuri (Festival of Eras), Heian Shrine, Kyoto. Nov Shichi-go-san (Children’s Shrine Visiting Day), throughout Japan. Dec Chichibu Yo-matsuri (All-night Festival), Chichubu City, Saitama; Hagoita Ichi (Battledore Fair), Asakusa, Tokyo. Social Conventions: Japanese manners and customs are vastly different from those of Western people. A strict code of behaviour and politeness is recognised and followed by almost all Japanese. However, they are aware of the difference between themselves and the West and therefore do not expect visitors to be familiar with all their customs but expect them to behave formally and politely. A straightforward refusal does not form part of Japanese etiquette. A vague ‘yes’ does not really mean ‘yes’ but the visitor may be comforted to know that confusion caused by non-committal replies occurs between the Japanese themselves. Entertaining guests at home is not as customary as in the West, as it is an enterprise not taken lightly and the full red-carpet treatment is given. Japanese men are also sensitive lest their wives be embarrassed and feel that their hospitality is inadequate by Western standards; for instance, by the inconvenience to a foreign guest of the custom of sitting on the floor. Bowing is the customary greeting but handshaking is becoming more common for business meetings with Westerners. The suffix san should be used when addressing all men and women; for instance Mr Yamada would be addressed as Yamada-san. When entering a Japanese home or restaurant it is customary to remove shoes. Table manners are very important, although the Japanese host will be very tolerant towards a visitor. However, it is best if visitors familiarise themselves with basic table etiquette and use chopsticks. It is customary for a guest to bring a small gift when visiting someone’s home. Exchange of gifts is also a common business practice and may take the form of souvenir items such as company pens, ties or high-quality spirits. Smoking is only restricted where notified. Tipping: Tips are never expected since a ten to 20 per cent service charge is added to the bill at hotels, ryokan and restaurants; where a visitor wishes to show particular appreciation of a service, money should not be given in the form of loose change but rather as a small financial gift. Special printed envelopes can be bought for financial gifts of this type. Business Profile Economy: After suffering massive destruction during World War II, Japan was the economic phenomenon of the late 20th century. The country’s GDP now ranks second in the world after the USA. This has been achieved through judicious application of import controls and consistently high domestic investment, coupled with an aggressive export drive orchestrated by the powerful Ministry of International Trade and Industry (MITI). The structure of the Japanese domestic economy revolves around a series of large multi-product corporations (which have since become household names in the world economy), linked in loose alliances (known as keiretsu) with banks and finance houses. The corporations are serviced with components and raw materials by a plethora of small firms with low overheads and labour costs, and a well honed distribution system (many of these lower-level processes are now carried out in the ‘tiger economies’ of the Pacific Basin). The economic boom came to an end in the early 1990s, when competition from abroad and excessive loans by the banks began to put the Japanese economy under a set of pressures to which it has proved unable to respond. The bulk of the bad loans became apparent in the wake of the 1991 property crash, which had followed an orgy of buying in areas such as Metropolitan Tokyo and the eastern ‘Gold Coast’ of Australia. Since then, especially in the wake of the 1997 Asian financial crisis, the economy has stagnated, averaging just one per cent growth annually. In 2002, the GDP was expected to contract (estimates vary, but perhaps by up to four per cent). Political indecision and the incestuous nature of the keiretsu have prevented the Government from making anything more than token and piecemeal efforts at structural reform. Agriculture is the only sector of the economy that does not measure up to Western standards in terms of technology and management, and remains relatively inefficient and heavily protected by the Government. The main reason for this is the nature of the Japanese electoral system, which affords a disproportionate number of parliamentary seats to rural areas. Rice, potatoes, sugar and citrus fruits are the main crops. The manufacturing industry is still important, particularly vehicles and electronic goods, although traditional industries such as coal mining, shipbuilding and steel are also sizeable and, unlike many of their Western counterparts, profitable. Overall, industry contributes 35 per cent of economic output – a larger proportion than the world’s other leading economies. The USA has a 20 per cent share of Japan’s import market, followed by South Korea and Indonesia (5.5 per cent), Australia, China, Taiwan and Saudi Arabia (5 per cent). The service sector grew rapidly in the 1980s as the economy matured and Japan became a major force in the international economy. The emphasis in Japanese trade thus switched from manufactured goods to export of services and ‘invisibles’, such as finance and insurance. In the international arena, Japan is a leading member of the Organisation of Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) and the Asia-Pacific Economic Co-operation (APEC) forum. Business: A large supply of visiting cards printed in English and Japanese is essential. Cards can be quickly printed on arrival with Japanese translation on the reverse side. Appointments should be made in advance and, because of the formality, visits should consist of more than a few days. Punctuality is important. Business discussions are often preceded by tea and are usually very formal. Office hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700. Some offices are open Sat 0900-1200. Commercial Information: The following organisations can offer advice: Japanese Chamber of Commerce, Second Floor, Salisbury House, 29 Finsbury Circus, London EC2M 5QQ, UK (tel: (020) 7628 0069; fax: (020) 7628 0248); or Nippon Shoko Kaigi-sho (Japan Chamber of Commerce and Industry), 2-2 Marunouchi 3 Chome, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0005 (tel: (3) 3283 7824; fax: (3) 3211 4859; e-mail: info@jcci.or.jp; website: www.jcci.or.jp); or JETRO (Japan External Trade Organisation), Internationalisation Centre, 2-2-5 Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-8466 (tel: (3) 3582 5511; fax: (3) 3587 0219; website: www.jetro.go.jp). Conferences/Conventions: The Japan Convention Bureau is a division of the Japan National Tourist Organisation (see Contact Addresses section); its Convention Planner’s Guide to Japan lists 35 cities with conference facilities including Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Yokohama, Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Kyoto has proved to be one of the most popular locations for international meetings over the last few years. For further information, contact the Japan Convention Bureau, 2-10-1 Yuraku-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0006 (tel: (3) 3216 2905; fax: (3) 3216 1978; e-mail: convention@jnto.go.jp; website: www.jnto.go.jp). Climate Except for the Hokkaido area and the subtropical Okinawa region, the weather is mostly temperate, with four seasons. Winters are cool and sunny in the south, cold and sunny around Tokyo (which occasionally has snow), and very cold around Hokkaido, which is covered in snow for up to four months a year. Summer, between June and September, ranges from warm to very hot, while spring and autumn are generally mild throughout the country. Rain falls throughout the year but June and early July is the main rainy season. Hokkaido, however, is much drier than the Tokyo area. Rainfall is intermittent with sunshine. Typhoons are only likely to occur in September or October but rarely last more than a day. Required clothing: Lightweight cottons and linens are required throughout summer in most areas. There is much less rainfall than in Western Europe. Light- to mediumweights during spring and autumn; medium- to heavyweights for winter months, according to region. Much warmer clothes will be needed in the mountains all year round. History and Government History: The earliest recorded history of Japan dates back to the reign of the emperor Jimmu during the sixth century BC. Japan was subject to strong Chinese and Korean influence thereafter, but was unable to develop a strong centralised State based on the Chinese model. Political and economic power was in the hands of a group of noble dynasties which operated on a largely feudal basis. The 12th century AD saw the emergence of the shogun, a military governor drawn from one of the great families, who ruled with the consent of the others, although most of their energies were devoted to internecine warfare. Only an external threat, such as the attempted Mongol invasions in the late 13th century, would unite the various families against the common enemy. This helped create a latent national consciousness which slowly developed over the next 300 years. The actual unification of Japan began during the Tokugawa period (1600-1868), during which a national administrative hierarchy was forged from the family structures of the ruling class. During this period the shogun retained supreme executive power. One of the hallmarks of this period from an outsider’s perspective was Japan’s unyielding resistance to foreign influence; despite its powerful position in the region, which brought it into contact with the European imperial powers, Japan conducted a kind of anti-foreign policy. In the late 19th century, as the Tokugawa regime eventually declined into inertia and profligacy, a new breed of rulers took control and embarked on a programme of rapid industrialisation, establishing a Western-style system of administration in the process. The military was the main driving force behind this process. However, formal executive power was in the hands of the Emperor, who inherited his position and was treated by most of his subjects as a demi-god – all-powerful and remote. Japan’s imperial ambitions in the Far East developed during this period, exemplified by the occupation of Korea in 1905 after the defeat of its main imperial rival, Russia, in a war that had begun the previous year. The Japanese took little active part in World War I, despite a formal declaration of war on Germany, but Japanese factories produced munitions and supplies for the Allies throughout. In the 1920s and 1930s, Japan resumed its expansionist regional policies (despite economic difficulties caused by the global recession) with China as the main target. Japan’s subsequent collision with the British, who had substantial political and economic interests in China, contributed to her alliance with Germany in World War II. Between 1938 and 1941, Japan’s forces occupied China and South-East Asia and expelled the British from Singapore, Malaysia and Hong Kong. At its zenith, the Japanese empire, which carried the Orwellian title ‘Co-Prosperity Zone’, stretched as far south as Indoesnia and eastwards far into the Pacific. The American entry into the war in response to the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor turned the balance against the Japanese, who were slowly pushed back over the following four years, finally surrendering after the nuclear attacks on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Japan was occupied by American troops, and in 1946, the Americans imposed the constitution that governs Japan today. The years from 1950 to 1990 were a period of exceptional economic growth which took Japan from the brink of annihilation to the world’s second most powerful economy (see Business Profile section). This remarkable achievement was not matched, however, in the political arena, where the government’s domestic policies were frequently self-serving and bordering on the corrupt. Foreign policy, meanwhile, was all but non-existent until the demands of international trade forced the government to address the outside world. Throughout the East Asian region – most of which had been occupied by the Japanese during the 1930s and 40s – there was still strong resentment, especially in China and the Koreas, of Japan’s brutal treatment of its subject populations. This was compounded by the fact that, in stark contrast to the de-nazification process which transformed post-war Germany, Japan was (and, to a large extent, still is) in a state of denial about this period of its history. Japan’s main political party today is the Liberal Democratic Party (LDP, or Jiyu Minshu-to) which was formed in 1955 from a coalition of centre-right groups. It held a continuous grip on political power from then until 1993. The defining feature of the LDP is its factional make-up. Most modern political parties are broad alliances of groups which may differ on specific policies or methods but subscribe to the overall objectives articulated by the party leadership. In the LDP, by contrast, the greater interests of the party were subordinate to the interests of the factions. Thus the factional leaders of the LDP have often enjoyed even more power than senior ministers. Successive Japanese governments have been beholden to the whims of these faction leaders. The latest phase of Japan’s political development dates roughly from 1989. In that year, Japan acquired a new Emperor when Akihito succeeded his father, Hirohito. The role and status of the Emperor remains a sensitive issue. While Hirohito was never fully rehabilitated because of his knowledge of Japanese war crimes, Akihito represents a new generation of Emperor because he has adopted the more personable style of European monarchs, rather than taken on the inaccessible demi-god status of his predecessors. The accession of Akihito coincided with the first indications that the Japanese economic expansion was stalling (see Business Profile section). The 1990s brought other important changes as Japan was adopting a more substantial foreign policy consistent with its economic muscle. A modification to the constitution in 1992 allowed Japanese troops to be posted overseas, albeit in a peacekeeping role only. Japanese influence is also now being felt strongly throughout Asia and Australasia through its investments and aid programmes. As a member of the G8 group of the world’s most powerful states, Japan started to exert substantial influence on the world stage. Relations with most of its neighbours and trading partners have undergone some degree of improvement, although there have been regular trade disputes, particularly with the US and the European Union. The single major territorial dispute is with the Russian Federation (and previously the Soviet Union) over the Kurile Islands off the coast of Hokkaido: this has yet to be resolved. In July 1993, the LDP lost control of the Diet for the first time since 1955. It found itself in opposition to a seven-party coalition comprised of leftists, centrists and LDP defectors under the leadership of Morihiro Hosakawa, head of the Nihon Shinto (New Japan Party). The unwieldy coalition collapsed after a year, after which one of its principal members, the Social Democrats, decided that life with the LDP was more manageable, and teamed up with them to form a government. After a lengthy period of infighting, the LDP settled on a new leader in ex-finance minister Ryutaro Hashimoto, who had made his name as a tough and effective trade negotiator. At the next general election in October 1996, the LDP was reconfirmed as the party of government. The following year was dominated by economic chaos following the onset of the Asian currency crisis. As with the smaller economies in the region, the problems in Japan reflected deeper structural and administrative problems which – five years later – have still not been fully addressed by the government. The LDP faction leaders turned on Hashimoto (who was also deeply unpopular in the country) soon after and he was ignominiously turfed out of office. Two transitional leaders, ex-Foreign Minister Keizo Obuchi and faction leader Yoshiro Mori, then held the premiership in quick succession. Mori successfully guided the LDP through the November 2000 general election, putting it just short of an overall majority in the House of Deputies. Yet within six months, amid continuing economic recession and dismal poll ratings, he resigned. Now in serious disarray, the LDP was about to turn back to recall Hashimoto when an unlikely would-be saviour appeared in the form of Junichiro Koizumi, a former minister with a huge popular following by virtue of his flamboyant personal style and evident determination to break with the past. Although the party hierarchy was largely opposed to him, he secured the LDP leadership in April 2001 through an unprecedented grassroots rebellion in the party (an indication that the historic power of the faction leaders may be waning). The LDP’s overwhelming victory in upper house parliamentary elections in July silenced his critics. In October 2002, the Koizumi government finally unveiled plans to tackle the economic crisis with a package of tax cuts designed to boost output and measures to deal with the huge volume of bad debts held by the Japanese banks. One likely outcome is higher unemployment which, at five and a half per cent, is already higher than levels to which the Japanese are accustomed. Government: The Japanese parliament is the bicameral Kokkai (or Diet). The upper house (Sangi-in) has 252 members directly elected from constituencies for six-year terms (half of which are renewed every three years). The lower house (Shugi-in) has 500 members elected for four-year terms partly by single-seat constituencies, partly by proportional representation. The Diet approves the appointment of a prime minister who holds executive power with the assistance of a cabinet of ministers. The appointment of the prime minister is formally entrusted to the Emperor who is head of State but has negligible constitutional powers. Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.